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Chevy Blazer GMC Jimmy Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • quantumtouchflquantumtouchfl Member Posts: 35
    Subject: Door Hinge Pin/Bushing replacement.

    HI, I have a 96 LS... 182K miles... a note on the door hinge pins/bushings... I just replaced mine... really needed done at 100K... but the door striker just now started hitting wrong. The bushings and hinge pins are the same on my 81 Grand Prix... same bushings with brass/bronze... they use the softer metal so that the hinge pin does not wear... just the bushings. I fairly good system... but what really puts pressure on the upper pin is the door spring. The spring has to be removed to change the pins and bushings... so just leave it out. You can get the door spring removal tool at NAPA for around $21.00. I replaced both upper and lower at the same time. I suspended the door with a rope sling... and a small nylon belt type come a long from my garage door opener mounting hardware in the ceiling... yes I have digital pics of doing it. Was about a three hour project... as I had never done this with hinges that were welded to the body and door. I could do the job again in two hours if I had to.

    Do you still own your Jimmy?

    Take care, TJ
  • quantumtouchflquantumtouchfl Member Posts: 35
    Thank you for the prompt reply and intel... I replaced the radiator about two years ago... developed a small crack (barely visible) very small leak... under the inlet neck. Replaces with the orange and I have topped off the overflow bottle with the Prestone Univeral mix with any color coolant stuff... I had a small leak on the water pump... turned out to be a loose hose clamp... I repalces all the rubber hoses at the 100K mark.

    Take care, TJ
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Member Posts: 2,242
    Look at where the water dumps from the door rain channel and you will get a good idea of what is happening to the bushings. Re-grease those little suckers every oil change and they will last a lot longer. All GM had to do was slightly tweak the door design to get the runoff away from the hinge pin and things would have worked out much nicer.
  • captwine67captwine67 Member Posts: 1
    how do you take off passenger front seat cover to replace recliner part? It's for a 2000 Jimmy 4wd.
  • 1986blazer1986blazer Member Posts: 6
    i have a 1986 k5 blazer, and what i want to do is swap the carburated 305 with a fuel injected 327 vortec, but i cannot find an aftermarket computer for it, i do know they make them. can anybody tell me where i could find one maybe has a different solution.

    thanks
  • 1986blazer1986blazer Member Posts: 6
    i have an 1986 k5 blazer and i have an problem with the a/c, no matter what position i put the selector switch the compressor will come on exept in the off position. does anybody has any sugestions?
  • quantumtouchflquantumtouchfl Member Posts: 35
    Has anyone dealt with this maintenance? I have a 96 LS with 182K miles. I saw one in the bone yard... T/C cover off... no chain... gear drive. Was this OEM... or aftermarket?

    Thank you... TJ
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Member Posts: 2,242
    Looked up the parts for a 4.3, and sure enough, does not show a chain, just helical cut gears, so it would appear that these are gear only designs.
  • quantumtouchflquantumtouchfl Member Posts: 35
    Outstanding... thank you for the quick intel... went to AutoZone... they showed me timing gear and chain set. I saw the one in the yard about four years ago... just made a mental note on it.

    I had two 3.8 Buick engines to deal with at one time... and if you failed to change out the factory nylon cam gear... by the 80K mark... it was too late.

    Thank you again.. one less thing to be concerned with... thank you GM too.

    Take Care... TJ
  • quantumtouchflquantumtouchfl Member Posts: 35
    That would explain the corrosion on the pins when I first purchased it with 70K miles. Before I replaced the pins and bushings about three months ago... I soaked the pins in MP (Metal Protector) an Amsoil product that I have used since 1978. Then I used Amsoil Synthetic Grease on the bushings and pins before I put them together. Door feels like new again. The door spring puts too much pressure on the pin and bushings... in my opinion. Had they put the spring on the bottom hinge... it would have been a better design. Interestingly enough... I was at the Florida State Fair on Sunday... and they had a Hybrid Chevy Tahoe on display. Want to guess where the door spring was located? That's right... the bottom hinge... a much better design... and the hinges are bolted on... not welded.

    Take Care,.. TJ

    Take Care... TJ
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Member Posts: 2,242
    Bingo on the 3.8. Years ago I had a '75 model 3.8. They called it a 231 back then, also known as the 'stagger-fire'. It used a V8 distributor with two plug wires removed. The set up fired 4 cylinders, skipped one, fired two, skipped one.

    The timing chain stretched and I had to replace it, and the nylon cam gear, at 20K miles.

    Weird engine, but developed a lot of low RPM torque.
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Member Posts: 2,242
    Okay, I pulled my books on that engine because I thought it used a chain, also. Well, guess what? It uses a chain from the crank to the FRONT cam gear. Then, there is a REAR cam gear that is helical cut and connects directly to the counterbalance shaft gear.

    So, the parts guy wasn't pulling your leg, it does use a conventional gear/chain/gear setup. And it also uses a gear/gear setup for the counterbalance. I knew something didn't seem right when I saw the gears and no chain. The 4.3 is based off the Chevy 5.7L engine, which uses a chain.

    Fairly easy repair, though. And if the oil has been maintained, the balance shaft gears are probably fine.

    Jim
  • pieceof____carpieceof____car Member Posts: 3
    Sounds like a time consuming pain for the 4WD. For those of us without a shop or good place to make this repair (especially outside in February) can you throw out a repair cost range (high/low)?

    I've had my '01 Jimmy for a little over a year (2nd owner, 65k miles) and have had a couple small oil drips below the drivers side pretty much since I bought it. Recently, I noticed the spotting getting larger. From everything I've read and can see it looks like I'm having the same problem with the oil cooler lines.
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Member Posts: 2,242
    You might want to clean the area well and confirm the source of the leak. A shop told us the lines were leaking on our '99. Turned out to be a small leak in the pwr steering pump that was dripping on the lines below. At ~1oz a year I will forego the repair for now, but it does make a bit of a mess on the oil cooler lines such that it would appear they are the source.
  • skiextreme2skiextreme2 Member Posts: 30
    I have an 02 Blazer, 4.3, auto trans, and ran through some water on a flooded road. The SES light flickered but went off and four days later it came back on and hasn't gone off. Do you think the same thing applies here? Bad pump? It's only been about four days since the light came back on.
    Thanks, Rick
  • quantumtouchflquantumtouchfl Member Posts: 35
    Thank you for the update... my next question... Does the factory cam gear have nylon teeth? I have 182K miles... and I have used Amsoil Synthetic Lubricants and filter. Is it time to replace them?

    Take care, TJ
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Member Posts: 2,242
    Well, the illustrations I have show metal gears all around. You might still consider changing out the chain though as it has surely stretched over this amount of miles. The Buick 3.8L was notorious for streching the chain, to the point that a tensioner was used to take up the slack.

    I will defer to others with more timing chain experience on the 4.3, but 187K is a lot of miles for the chain, and the repair is not that difficult on a small block Chevy engine. It is a monster repair on the aforementioned 3.8L.
  • jpmccrjpmccr Member Posts: 31
    Vehicle: 2001 Chevy Blazer LT, 4WD, 115,000 miles, V-6, Automatic. We went to my sister-in-laws in up state PA and they got snow. Went to put it in 4WD and the 4WD (4L) indicator light starts blinking. Checked 4H as well and it blinks as well. The front end would not lock in. A friend of the family said the blinking light indicated that there was a problem with the 4WD. Ok; is this something I can fix or is it something that is going to cost a ton money to fix???? I watched when my wife put in 4WD and the front wheels did not pull as they should. Any help/advice is greatly appreciated.
  • sn1per3o8sn1per3o8 Member Posts: 2
    when i got this truck the guy put an L shaped vacuum connector under the truck somewhere he slid under the driver side door the exhaust is under the passenger side of truck. its 2 weeks later and the truck is running like it has a vacuum leak. anyone have ideas? i have read about a oxygen sensors but i cant find anything
  • tuttotutto Member Posts: 2
    Hi guys i have a problem with my truck when i start it in the morning and let it run for 5-10 min as soon as i put it in drive it starts bogging rpms jumping up and down does it until the engine get warm any idea guys i would appreciate it thanks
  • tjh5479tjh5479 Member Posts: 6
    Please Help. I am trying to find the 3rd o2 sensor on my 95 Chevy Blazer. I found the one right before and after the cat, but can't find the one on the manifold. Been told there isn't one, then there is and it is the same sensor as the other two or it isn't. Haven't got a straight answer from anyone. If anyone can help that would be great. A pic would be awesome. Thanks in advance.
  • 1986blazer1986blazer Member Posts: 6
    depends on how many wires you have on the sensor, and if the sensor is still there take it off and take it to your parts store for them to match it up
  • misstee1misstee1 Member Posts: 2
    Thanks for ur response. I will try that and let u know how it works.
  • tjh5479tjh5479 Member Posts: 6
    Try O2 sensors or EGR valve.
  • tjh5479tjh5479 Member Posts: 6
    I need to know where on the truck the 3rd sensor is before I can take it off and bring it to a parts store.
  • tolesontoleson Member Posts: 9
    Ok so a little history on the truck. I acquired it from a family member wrecked. I put over 800 in parts in it and did all the work myself. I also had to have some mechanicals done to it as fallows, new computer,EGR valve,4 wheel drive vacuum actuator and cable,intake hose, and some other stuff. The 4 wheel worked after replacing the actuator and the cable but the next day it no longer does. If the switch works it all the when i try to put it in 4hi the light on 4hi and 4lo just flash and go back into to hi. Other times nothing will happen when you push the button for 4hi. The same thing happens if i try to use 4lo. Could it just be the switch? I cant get my hands on a one to test my theory.... Any input would be great. Thanks guys :confuse:
  • brockerwyobrockerwyo Member Posts: 1
    Yes I am having the same problems with my 97 Jimmy. We had to have the motor relaced because of the previous owner. It ran great with a 01 motor in it. We put on about 2k miles and then it started to stutter from stop to go. The idle is erratic and it through up like six codes. Five of which were Bank 1 Sensor 1 o2 sensor was shot. SO I replaced it. It helped for about a week now it's back to the same crap. WITH the P0300 code.I don't know what to do...if I can't fix it I am SCREWED!!! Ironically I moved up here to go to school to be a mechanic.. HA :cry:
  • tolesontoleson Member Posts: 9
    Hey guys i'm looking for alot of input on this one. I have a 1995 chevy blazer and Out of the blue iv'e lost both low beam lights. To make this problem even more interesting is the fact that when I turn on the high beams... Even though they work the blow the number 16 fuse for the turn signals. This truck has been a great truck I just hope this isn't anything major. I think it has to be something stupid. I just haven't found anything yet. PLEASE HELP! :sick: :confuse:
  • tjh5479tjh5479 Member Posts: 6
    Is the fuse for the headlights blown or does it keep blowing when you replace it?? If so, I hate to state the obvious which you probably already know, but most likely it is a short, and where that short is, is very hard to find unless you have the right tools. I am going to guess that maybe one of the wires leading up to the headlights may have been rubbing up agains something and is now bare. If the wires for the turn signals are bare as well, they may be touching causing a short. My Suggestion would be too read up about finding shorts, or bring it to someone who knows. Another thing you might try is changing the wiring harness for the headlights. If they are corroded that might do it too. Good luck.
  • tolesontoleson Member Posts: 9
    I just changed both headlights and the low beams mush have just been blown. And when i did that the signal lights came back. I thought this was interesting so i took it to my uncle and he said o yea that makes sense it is back feed. So I was just like sure and adjusted my headlights and went on with my life.

    Seems kind of weird to me. Must be chevy hired some people from ford to lay out the electrical!!

    Thank you for your input and happy driving!
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Member Posts: 2,242
    If when one of the low beams went out, the support for the filament shorted against the other filament support, I could see you having a low resistance short, blowing the fuse. The filament itself has some resistance, the support wires do not.

    I had a car where both low beams failed at the same time. I thought it was odd, and asked a trusted mechanic. Being a logical southern boy, he just looked at me and answered, "Why shouldn't they both go at the same time? They was put in at the same time, wasn't they?"

    Kind of hard to argue with that logic.
  • kirkathon25kirkathon25 Member Posts: 1
    I just had my ignition switch replaced to get rid of the shift solenoid problem. The transmission is newly rebuilt. The problem comes after about 20 mins of driving it goes back into safe mode. The shop says that there is no problem since they do not drive it far enough for the problem to occur. Since the ignition switch is not the problem i am wondering what else it could be. The tranny works fine for those 20 mins.
  • merlynxx1merlynxx1 Member Posts: 2
    What was the problem?
  • enzaneenzane Member Posts: 1
    i have a 1992 chevy blazer just bought it the people i got it from said they changed the fuel filter and fuel pump but when i drive the vehicle i studders when i drive like its not getting fuel to the engine sometimes it drives fine when it does mess up if i put it in neutral then shut truck off then start and drive again it works for a little while what doe you think it could be
  • singramsingram Member Posts: 2
    I have a 2004 2 door Chevy blazer and the rear hatch will not open. When you press the release button I can hear a noise like it wants to open but nothing happens. I was hoping someone would be able to give me some advice on what to troubleshoot since I am in the middle of moving and can not afford to take it to the dealer at this time. It would also make my move a lot easier if I could get that hatch open. Thanks.
  • skiextreme2skiextreme2 Member Posts: 30
    Have you tried pushing to close it and re-opening it several times? And cycling the ignition once between try's? I had a similar problem with a different vehicle and all that I can think of is that it was a little stuck from non-use. Once I got it to work, it was fine.
    You could always call a dealer and ask.
  • tjh5479tjh5479 Member Posts: 6
    Is it an electric rear hatch? I had the samething happen because I backed into something but mine was electric. When I pressed the button, I could hear the motor moving, but didn't open. I took the inside panel off the gate and found that I had bent a small arm that the motor moves so it was not hitting the latch. I bent it back and it worked fine. Good luck.
  • tjh5479tjh5479 Member Posts: 6
    Cheap part, try replacing the fuel pump relay or cleaning the contacts? Is your check engine light on?
  • quantumtouchflquantumtouchfl Member Posts: 35
    Hi... I attempted to respond earlier in the week... but this site was down. I had the same situation with my 96. There is a small lever, made out of plastic, that connects the servo to the actual release mechanism. You can not purchase just the plastic part (I have great digital photos of this part). You have two options... you can fix the part... using a paper clip, or you can go to the salvage yard... and look for one. It is easy to fix or replace... once you get the cover off the door. Opening the door is not so easy... but there is a place under the carpet near the latch that you have access to the lever. Use a screwdriver to trip the lever.

    I hope this helps... TJ
  • alesi64alesi64 Member Posts: 1
    Hi,

    I just fixed a friends 99 blazer that sounds like it had the same problem. Old fuel pump died and she had someone install a new pump and also a new filter. Then it began to run/studder like yours.

    It took me a while to figure out but here was the fix for her car (runs great now). The new filter that she had installed was the wrong one. Looks identical to the correct filter but either Autozone or the mechanic messed up. the in flow direction and outflow was reversed on the new filter. I found the correct filter, replaced it, and now the car runs fine.

    Crazy, but check your filter and make sure the outflow (should be stamped on the metal "OUT" is pointing toward the engine. I saw the old/incorrect filter and the new filter side by side and they look identical except the flow direction "OUT" was reversed. I think GM may have changed the guts inside the filter and may have a one way valve in the filter that is starving the engine if the wrong one is used.

    Hope that helps.

    Dan
  • jefforybjefforyb Member Posts: 2
    Hey -
    I have tried everything to open my hatchback;
    I tried the push button inside the car;
    I tried opening it with the key outside the car,
    and I even tried manually to open it but to no
    avail.
    It just won't open; I even checked the fuses.
    What to do; do anybody know?
    --jefforyb-- :cry:
  • merlynxx1merlynxx1 Member Posts: 2
    Yes the engine light is on.
  • jefforybjefforyb Member Posts: 2
    No. There are no lights on the dashboard at all.
    The only lights that comes on are the ones when
    I start the engine :cry: .
  • jbrown13jbrown13 Member Posts: 1
    just bought my 2001 blazer and love it so far except for the pesky severice engine light that came on the second day. the code is po410 something about the secondary air injection system fault has anyone had this problem and if so how do i fix it thanks for the info
  • pawlakjlpawlakjl Member Posts: 1
    I have a 1999 GMC Jimmy - It has been in the shop all winter for problems with the blower not changing to defrost or the floor properly. I can get hot air to blow at my face until I am sunburnt but I can not get it to change to any other setting. I can not seem to find anyone to figure out what hte problem is. One mechanic said it was the vaccum hose and he replaced it said it was fixed BUT it was NOT. I really can't afford to take it to the Dealer. You know I would pay a lot of money and I don't want to spend that kind of money on an older vehicle. Please any help or suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Also, I smell antifreeze in the car when the blower is going. I understand the heater core needs to be replaced. Is it really a difficult job or is it just time consuming since the dash has to come out. Also what about a manifold intake gasket? Hard job or what?
  • frankkfffrankkff Member Posts: 1
    Does anyone know how to check the fluid in the rear differential of a 2001 Chev Blazer. I was attempting to drain the grease and replace with synthetic grease but I can not see either drain plug or fill plug.
    Anyone have advice?
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Member Posts: 2,242
    Generally, you pull the rear plate and clean out the differential. Put on a fresh gasket and bolt it back up. The add fluid until the level is even with the bottom of the one hole on the side and you are done.

    The plug is just above midline of the differential, on the passengers side.

    You can get a suction draw and get the fluid out that way, but you won't get all the fluid, and you won't get the small amount of metal out of the bottom of the diff.

    Jim
  • quantumtouchflquantumtouchfl Member Posts: 35
    Your blower issue should have been an easy fix... even for a dealership... and they would have had the right part. Sometimes it is best to go to the dealership... they have had experience with these issues... yes you might pay more... but better in the long run. The motor... electrical... that drives the diverter door... up for defrost... down for floor heat... is either dead... or the switch is messed up... or there could be a simple hardware issue... like a broken lever attached to the electric motor and the door. See if you can hear something moving... near the center hump... and on the driver side... when you turn the selection knob. If you hear something... then chances are the motor is working... but the diverter door is not moving. Most likely... the issue is with the control switch... I believe the motor functions very well.

    I hope this helps... TJ
  • jakedog1jakedog1 Member Posts: 1
    Have a ruptured fuel line I'm trying to replace....Is there a trick to the fittings on the fuel lines or is a specialty tool required?
    Also, what is the black box at the rear drivers side that two fuel lines run into? I know its not the pump.

    Thanks
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Member Posts: 2,242
    Some of the fuel line connections require a special tool. Your auto parts store may have one that they loan out.

    The little box at the back is the evaporative emissions charcoal canister. Filters the fumes from the tank and fuel injection.
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