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I was told by a repair man that worked on it and commented that the mildew smell is from a part that needs to be replaced. Unfortunately, I forgot what it was. He said it is a very common thing with Jimmy's and not expensive. I could do it myself. Has anyone had this problem? Do you know what this part is that causes the smell?? Please help!
I have heard of this before, but my manual does not show where that filter is and I would like to know also.
The first problem was the gas gauge. I can have a full tank of gas and the gauge will drop to empty. Sometimes, if I put the shift lever into neutral it will go back to where it should be and sometimes I have to rev the engine up a bit to make the gas gauge get back to where it should be. The only suggestions were, wiring or the sending unit in the gas tank. Oh yes, the trip computer seems to be fairly accurate as far as the amount of gas used compared to the mileage. This bugs me to no end and I could use some help with this problem.
The second problem I need to get solved is a trouble code P0440. Everyone told me it was the gas cap. I had a new locking gas cap on it from the day after I bought it two years ago. I did keep the old cap, so I put that back on and erased the code. It worked for a few days, then came back on.
I don't know if the two problems are related and because I changed the gas cap and the problem was OK for a few days then the CEL came back on, I am thinking it is not the gas cap.
Have to get through inspection son and need to get that taken care of.
One thing I should mention is that the smaller vacuum hoses had to be replaced several months ago. I am referring to the ones that control 4WD, and the fresh air system. They were all around 3/16ths size hoses.
Any chance something could be plugged or another hose that is bad?
The manual mentions the charcoal canister, but doesn't have a photo. It also mentions the EVAP purge control valve and mentions a couple tests, but not in good enough detail (I'm better with mechanical problems) for me.
I posted the gas gauge problem here a long time ago, but probably worded it differently because I got no response at all.
Help!
Also when I purchased the truck it needed a new battery. I installed one and after driving 40 miles tried to get it inspected. the mech said it was to soon to read the computer and told me to drive it more. 3 days later the service engine light went on and stayed on all afternoon. The next morning the light was off and has been since. When I reached 145 miles I tried to get it inspected and again the mech. said his message still read not ready to read. I have noticed small electrical items not working IE compass is backwards, gas and temp gauge dont seem to work, could they all be computer related?
Fairly common problem, the drain just needs to be cleaned. I know it is behind and below the dryer (that big silver thing by the firewall) but I can't tell you exactly where.
After a bunch of twisting and moving around, I finally got the starter to a point to where I can pull it out, but it wont come out unless the wires connected to the solenoid are disconnected. How in the heck do you get a socket to these bolts?
This was on a 99 Chevy Blazer 10 bolt and believe was the same for 12 Bolt.
Min Grade 5 5/16 - 18 x 3/4
5/16 is the diameter, 18 would be threads per inch, 3/4 lenght
Found 3 packs of the bolts at Lowes for $1.04 Grade 8, Washers Grade 8 $1.04 per 5 pack
When I first bought the vehicle as soon as I turned on the truck, the wheel would sink to one side and the same side the wheel was wearing poorly. (Very unsafe ball joints)
Turns out the ball joints, were very poor quality, one wheel hub was bad, pitman and idler arms were bad.
To check wheel hubs, put the front end on some stands or even a side at a time may work. Grab the tires on the side and shake up and down. There should be no movement. Even a little is too much and heard these go frequently. Luckily they are $99 each at Autozone including the sensor which is another issue. plus $20 to replace the nut which is suggested. A garage replacing one side is around $450
To check Pitman and Idler arms I believe there would be play on tires if you grab it and move it side to side. These are about $35 each. Is a little tough to install because of the location. I had to take off the steering box.
To check if its a ball joint take the tire off grab the rotor and pull out on it if it moves its bad get it replaced. They range from $24 for the value brand and $45 each for the higher brand. Remember 2 per side. A garage gets 2.5 hrs per side plus double the cost of the parts.
For the tierod someone wiggle the steering back an forth 10 to 2 o'clock should be enough to see play in the pitman arm,drag link, tie rod ends. If its a sealed boot around the inner tie rod end you can still check it, But just a little more difficult, Still takes anyone that can move the steering wheel back an forth.while you observe the steering knuckles move, No movement at the joint should be scene. No clunking, (if these are fine you may want to avoid replacing, can be a pain to thread the nut on the stud)
If you can do the work yourself depending when any of these were last replaced, it would make sense to do them all at once because you will need an alignment and I paid around $75 .
Make sure you are careful, ball joints will pop right out of place and spring the control arm, that is once you are lucky enough to get them off. Plus the more you take off the easier all this will be.
I paid a Garage $80 to diagnosis the problems unintentionally because I was very new at this. They wanted $1000 for ball joints and 1 wheel hub. I was able to do all this work myself for $800, (not counting shocks, that does not sound like your problem.)
It was very tough work the first time but learned a lot and could do so much faster now. You need good tools. Min 1/2" drive rachet, some PB Blasters, joint pry bar tools, a 24 inch breaker bar, possibly a cheater pipe, I used a 6ft metal fence post.
Wear gloves to protect your hands. Most of the sizes are metric, one of the caliper bolts is 18mm, drove me nuts and almost stripped a nut.
It is easier to loosen the wheel hub while, truck is on the ground, not to take off fully, just loosen.
Hope any part of this helps, this is a ton of research and self expereince I found in many different places.
Oxygen Sensor Heater: Not Ready
EGR something: Not Ready
Someone please help I already have 1 ticket for no inspection.
Thanks
Also, I had this problem and was going crazy trying to figure it out. I could spray a little belt dressing on the serpentine and the squeak would stop for a while, then come back. Finally figured out it was the Gates belt (new) I was using. Changed to a Goodyear Gatorback belt and never hear another peep.
One theory is that the painted Gates logo on their belts can cause the squeak. Belt dressing fixes for a while but it comes back, at least until the paint wears off.
Any suggestions?
MY PROBLEM WHEN I START IT IT POPS (BACKFIRES I GUESS YOU WOULD CALL IT) AND A LITTLE SMOKE COMES FROM UNDER HOOD BUT IF PUSH GAS PEDAL ALITTLE WHILE STARTING IT WILL START RIGHT UP RUNS ALITTLE ROUGH FOR ABOUT 30 SECONDS AND THEN RUNS FINE IT DOES IT MORE WHEN IT COOL (FLORIDA) AND IT WILL DO IT WHEN THE ENGINE IS WARM (AFTER DRIVING) SOMETIMES
THANKS IN ADVANCE FOR ANY HELP WITH THIS MATTER
SMILEY
To answer your question, this sounds like a classic fuel regulator failure where the regulator is leaking, adding additional fuel into the engine. The additional fuel causes the backfire/hard start, followed by rough idle. Once the excess fuel is burned off, the engine will run normally as it can deal with the small amount of leakage coming in.
This repair can be performed by a skilled doityourselfer, otherwise needs to be professionally repaired as the regulator is part of the "spider" fuel delivery system in the intake manifold used by the 4.3L and other GM V8 engines. I had this failure on a 6.0L v8, with the exact symptoms you describe.
Tomorrow's Technician
Sorry about the caps.
Thanks for the reply
I will let you know how it turns out
thanks
Not repair related, I know, but I wanted to let you other Jimmy owners know.
Thanks!
If you do this, be sure to mark all the relative positions. Also may require going through the timing set procedure for the engine computer, especially if you have to replace any parts.
However, over a period of time, the intergral regulator voltage output Weather-Pak terminal connector located in the side of the alternator can become loose and can illuminate the charge indicator light, even if the voltage output is only slightly low. The charge indicator light has no dim or bright stage to show the rate of charge or discharge. The charge indicator light is either fully lit or it is off. If the output voltage terminal Weather-Pak connector is loose or damaged, it can be blown off by the force of air from the radiator cooling fan, especially after driving at higher speed. You should NEVER operate the alternator with the output terminal disconnected. The voltage output Weather-Pak connector has a black rubber boot to protect the connection . You can request that a service station attendant or a parts store employee check the alternator voltage regulator out put terminal connector to see if the connector has become loose. If it is loose or disconnected, it can be pushed back on the alternator connection. If the connector was loose, the GM Weather-Pak alternator voltage output connection should be checked often or the Weather-Pak connector replaced.
That happened to my 1991 S10 Blazer 4x4 because the plastic locking tab on the GM Weather-Pak connector was sabotaged by someone and it would not lock onto the alternator voltage output terminal connection.. My S10 Blazer has a digital instrument panel with no indicator light. When the connector came loose, the battery charge rate indicated less than 10 volts. (I found that the air flow from the radiator would blow the Weather-Pak connection apart every time I got up to freeway speeds....... or higher. That led me to the problem and I replaced the plastic GM Weather-Pak terminal connector but only after I got tired of pushing it back on the alternator voltage output terminal.
Replacing a GM Weather-Pak connector is not a job for a novice because it takes patience and special tools. A dealership could replace the Weather-Pak connector for about 0.5 hour flat rate labor cost. Be advised, you should NEVER lubricate GM Weather-Pak connectors with WD-40 because the "secret sauce" in that product will attack and ruin GM Weather-Pak seals. The main ingredient in that product is mineral spirits which will ruin the silicone Weather-Pak connector seals. Always use a dielectric silicone lubricant in a tube but on the seals only and not on the conductors. The term di-electric means "insulator" or non-conductor and using di-electic grease can reduce full electrical connection. . .
I hope this tip saved you about $200 for a rebuilt alternator.
The previous battery may have been OK, just low due to the bad alternator or connection, but don't panic over that. A really good battery is always good to have
Hoe this helps. If you need anything further, just post again. .
With your husband deployed, and in support of our troops, if you were within 100 miles of central Texas I would come do the job myself, no charge. My nephew is currently in Iraq in special forces.
Tell us your general area and I will challenge my online associates to step up.
Jim
The average flat rate labor cost in Texas is $65 per hour at an independent garages and $90 per hour at Chevrolet deaerships.. The flat rate time will only be applied to 1/2 hour labor no matter who does the work and how long it actually takes. That is in addition to the cost of the alternator. A new car dealership will charge from $150 to $184 for a rebuilt 105 amp alternator whereas a independent garage may charge as little as $80 for a rebuilt 105 amp alternaotror, plus the applicable 1/2 hour labor cost and sales tax. Total cost of parts and labor is :
Dealerships: $229.
Independent garages ...$115
You will get a 90 day to a one year day gauarantee if a professional car repair facility does the work and that is worth something.
New car dealerships discourage non-warranty work by charging higher labor and parts costs. That is because a dealership has all the work they can handle just doing warranty work on the cars they have already sold and warranty work takes priority over non-warranty work. Avoid a new car dealership,even if they give you all the free coffee you can drink or a loaner car to use.
With the headlights on, turn the key to start. If the lights go out, low/bad battery, or poor connection. First, clean battery cable connections, be sure connections are tight after cleaning. Also, many parts stores (Autozone, Advance, Checker, etc) will test the battery. Or, try jumping with another battery in a running car. If it still just clicks, may be bad starter solenoid.
With the headlights on, turn the key to start. If the lights stay on, is probably bad solenoid. Good news, parts are cheap, bad news is hard to get to, have to remove the starter to change the solenoid.
Once the starter is out, parts store will test solenoid and starter.
What year is your Blazer?