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cap and rotor was bad....replaced but figure they may have caused computer to alter fuel etc etc etc ?????
1) first problem is that the washer fluid stopped spraying on the front, it does work on the rear. You can't hear anything when you try it for the front.
2) second problem is either the bushings or the pin in the top hinge of the driver's door is wore out because it sags and tries to hang up on the striker plate. How is this replaced?
3) andlastly how do you replace the hood latch cable? Mine is so bad that you about have to force the hood to open it. :confuse:
Thanks for your help in advance,
Jenni
Washer pump motor. get a meter and check for voltage at the pump when you push the washer switch. If voltage and no motor movement, replace the motor. No voltage, and you probably have a bad multifunction switch on the column. Check your fuses, too.
Hood latch cable comes as an assembly and you replace the cable and housing both. Double check on that one, but I am not sure you can get the cable by itself.
I have also had the rear washer quit, which turned out to be a hose that had come loose. It could also be the problem with your front washers. Fixing the rear hose involved undoing the torx bolt that holds the pull-down strap, then popping the interior panel loose, re-attach the hose, and put it back together.
Rock Auto also has the door hinge pin kit for less than $4. A locally owned body shop will usually provide the parts and install them for a pretty reasonable price, which is my recommendation, since getting the old ones out can be a pain the first time you do it.
While you're there, ask them to check out the hood latch release. Might just be lube or adjustment. If you need parts, Rockauto has the latch assembly for $26, but I don't see the cable on their catalog.
Good luck. Any questions, post again.
2nd -and :mad: most important (til winter!!!)- it keeps frying cig lighter elements. new socket (three times), and 5 or 6 elements. works for first few pushes, then blows fuse. ???????????????
I would sure check for that before tearing into the dash. The vacuum line repair takes maybe five minutes and will cost a couple of bucks for new lines.
In either case the default (no vacuum) position for the blend door is to blow air through the defrost and floor (heater) outlets. You may notice this happening while driving up a long hill with a load or at high altitude. The available vacuum under these conditions is not enough to keep the door at the dash vents (A/C).
This could easily be a broken or disconnected vacuum hose. It may also be a defective selector. These are pretty easy to remove from the dash. While it is out, you can see if there is vacuum coming into the selector and going out the various ports as the selector is moved.
If the actuator has to be replaced, then yes the only way is to remove all the dash stuff in the way.
I was told that the sensors for the gas gauge are on the fuel pump but they've replaced the fuel pump 3 times I didn't ask if the pumps were new or used.
I've asked about this a couple times before, but now that I know that the problem is not unique, I would like to hear some explanations.
They mentioned something about a vent tube going into the gas tank. Does anyone know about that. Is there a chance that could be a problem.
I did get a code that suggested something in the evap system. I changed the gas cap and when the codes came back, the purge valve (the new one was less than half the weight of the old one if that makes any difference, but I had to take the hose end that has the spring off the old one because the one they gave me had a different hose/spring inlet).
Please PM me if you have any info about this problem - it seems that if anyone has ever posted anything, I never got the message.
Thanks.
2002 Blazer V-6, 4WD, auto. The gas gauge floats back and forth. Been doing that since a few months after I bought it 2 years ago. Started getting a double code about 8 months ago, (evap code, and I don't have the code here, but I think it was P0049 that suggested evap system).
I have a friend with a 1998 (or 96) that has the same problem. They've replaced the fuel pump 3 times but it still happens
I've replaced the gas cap and the purge valve but the codes keep coming back.
If it's happened to 2 vehicles, it's probably happened to more. Does anyone have experience with this problem?
Here's the deal: The sending unit is not connected directly to the gauge, it goes through the Body Control Module (BCM). There is a bug in the software that "averages" the signal from the sending unit. For one thing, it only averages when in drive. Reverse will get you anything from half full to empty. If you back out of a parking space, and the fuel gauge goes nuts, just pull forward and the first time you need to slow down or stop, shift to neutral and watch what happens with the gauge. It will swing back up. Put the car back in gear and all is normal again.
Note that I have only seen this occur with an auto, but I would bet money there are ways it does it with a manual, too.
There is nothing you can do to fix it. Sometime around 2004 GM corrected the software and the problem disappeared. I know this because my '99, '00, '02 all three did it, my '04 did not.
Jim
Actually mine does this too, all though not as bad as that, it doesn't read right that i know.
I've never noticed the gauge doing anything strange in reverse.
Thanks, at least I now have some ideas to work with.
All I'm really saying if not GM, I'm thankfull that all the owners have banded together to help each other repair the cars and trucks.
any idea
1. The battery light comes on anytime the key is on and the engine isn't running.
2. How do you know there is no compression?
3. How do you know the timing chain is good?
4. How do you know there is spark?
5. How do you know there is gas at the engine at the proper fuel pressure?
4. What do you mean it sounds like it wants to turn over? If it doesn't turn over, how did you check the spark, timing chain, or compression?
Ya gotta give us something to work with here.
I had the same problem a while ago under the right side kick panel is were the 4x4 module is located unplug the whole thing and take it out and the truck should be ok it will be 2 wheel drive until you can get a new module while it is unplugged it will say service 4x4.....it will be a 2 wheel drive truck.......at least you can drive it really how often do we use 4x4....good luck
INCIDENT: How it happened was one night I was driving and the temperature gauge started shooting high, steam/smoke started coming from under the hood. Did some inspecting, obviously coolant is all over the place, but also ONLY a half quart of oil is in the motor?! I had no oil spots in the driveway and the oil gauge didn't warn me. The oil was due to be changed, but not overdue.
About your question, it is almost always the lower ball joints that need to be replaced. These are the ones that carry the weight of the vehicle. The uppers ( on these vehicles) only keep the spindle in the proper position. Your local tire store or alignment shop will easily confirm that it is the lowers. These are no harder or easier than other vehicles, with pretty much the same procedure.
I'm not seeing that and haven't heard of any other such reports. What browser are you using? Are there any browser settings that you can adjust?
tidester, host
SUVs and Smart Shopper
tidester, host
SUVs and Smart Shopper
tidester, host
SUVs and Smart Shopper
Hope you all have the best of luck with all of your Blazers, I will now headover to the Impala forums....Peace!!!
I have found out that all the electrical to the 4 WD works correct, the vacuum that pulls the wire work correct, so the problem must be somewhere in the front axle. Anyone that has a tip?
Have a great day...