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Chevy Blazer GMC Jimmy Maintenance and Repair

1…6667697172

Comments

  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Member Posts: 2,242
    fuel filter?
  • jimmyhaterjimmyhater Member Posts: 13
    I had a 96 Jimmy with the same problem. It ended up being a corroded 02 Sensor connector. I was able to clean out the harness connector and replaced the 02 Sensor. The computer never came up with a trouble code.
  • captainkirk56captainkirk56 Member Posts: 3
    is there anyway for a simple person like me to erase the computer codes.....96 jimmy 4.3

    cap and rotor was bad....replaced but figure they may have caused computer to alter fuel etc etc etc ?????
  • rdevansiirdevansii Member Posts: 3
    I have a 95 Chevrolet Blazer that had a similar situation. It was the EGR valve. Its located in the front of the engine. If it gets plugged, it will seriously bog the engine down. Most EGR valves don't go bad, just get build up. So what you can do is take it off, use WD-40 and spray in the valve. Clean the valve with a toothbrush. What you are cleaning is corrosion build up. I now check it once a year, and its keeping my Blazer run very efficient. Its a very easy fix. Be sure to buy a new gasket, which will only cost at most a dollar.
  • grobygroby Member Posts: 2
    I have the same problem in my 95 Jimmy. Tried everything you have and also have changed and cleaned out my EGR Valve. I finnally took it to a dealer and they couldn't figure it out. If you do please inform me if you do something different.
  • rdevansiirdevansii Member Posts: 3
    Have you changed your PCV valve? Could be stuck. What I have noticed about the 95 is all the sensors. Just one of them can screw it all up. Really quick question on your EGR Valve. What did you use to clean it? If it doesn't get cleaned fully, it will only open partial. I had it happen so then I spent some good time cleaning the gunk out and making sure the Valve had 100% opening. But, EGR Valves can fail too. Not common, but we own the 95 blazer........S&?t Happens
  • drewbie1drewbie1 Member Posts: 1
    My jimmy has been running fine untill recently. I think that there maybe something wrong with my alternator but I am unsure. When I am starting my jimmy it does not want to start and most of the dashboard lights do not want to come on. I try to start it again and it will hesitate starting, then it will start. The lights on the dashboard will then all come on and the gauges will start working after the dinging noise stops. I am also having issues with the four wheel drive system. It also was working untill recently. I try to engage the four wheel drive but it will not come on. Is this due to the alternator?
  • rdevansiirdevansii Member Posts: 3
    Well I would take your truck in and have the battery and/or alternator checked. Most of the time its free at any battery facility. They could let you know within minutes if anyone of those are bad. For your 4 wheel drive, its hard to say. I would try to start with the first problem. With your 4 wheel drive being an all electrical engagement, begin with the simple first.
  • 20blazer0020blazer00 Member Posts: 28
    I need some help figuring out how to fix a few problems with my Blazer> It's a 2000 LS 4x4 4.3.
    1) first problem is that the washer fluid stopped spraying on the front, it does work on the rear. You can't hear anything when you try it for the front.

    2) second problem is either the bushings or the pin in the top hinge of the driver's door is wore out because it sags and tries to hang up on the striker plate. How is this replaced?

    3) andlastly how do you replace the hood latch cable? Mine is so bad that you about have to force the hood to open it. :confuse:

    Thanks for your help in advance,
    Jenni
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Member Posts: 2,242
    Hinge pin kits are available at most autoparts stores. You support the door, knock out the old pin, replace the bushings and put the new pin in. I would advise to rent, borrow, or buy the door spring compression tool. Small spring, very very strong.

    Washer pump motor. get a meter and check for voltage at the pump when you push the washer switch. If voltage and no motor movement, replace the motor. No voltage, and you probably have a bad multifunction switch on the column. Check your fuses, too.

    Hood latch cable comes as an assembly and you replace the cable and housing both. Double check on that one, but I am not sure you can get the cable by itself.
  • johnss10johnss10 Member Posts: 46
    The windshield washer pumps are in the reservoir. The reservoir is pretty easy to remove. When mine quit pumping, I took it apart, cleaned the pump and connections and put it back together. Worked! You can test the pump with it out of the reservoir. I cut a gallon milk jug in half, and filled it with water to see if it would pump. It may also just need to be primed, which can be done the same way with the cut down milk jug. The pump is about $16 from www.rockauto.com. I've used them for several projects, good parts, good prices, good service. I have no interest in the company, just a satisfied customer.

    I have also had the rear washer quit, which turned out to be a hose that had come loose. It could also be the problem with your front washers. Fixing the rear hose involved undoing the torx bolt that holds the pull-down strap, then popping the interior panel loose, re-attach the hose, and put it back together.

    Rock Auto also has the door hinge pin kit for less than $4. A locally owned body shop will usually provide the parts and install them for a pretty reasonable price, which is my recommendation, since getting the old ones out can be a pain the first time you do it.

    While you're there, ask them to check out the hood latch release. Might just be lube or adjustment. If you need parts, Rockauto has the latch assembly for $26, but I don't see the cable on their catalog.

    Good luck. Any questions, post again.
  • hewybohewybo Member Posts: 10
    1st -i think my blend door actuator is bad -for the last few days, the a/c blows only through defrost vent and foot vents regardless of selector position. do i really have to remove the dash to replace the actuator? cannot see anything with glove box removed (as in later model discussions)

    2nd -and :mad: most important (til winter!!!)- it keeps frying cig lighter elements. new socket (three times), and 5 or 6 elements. works for first few pushes, then blows fuse. ???????????????
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Member Posts: 2,242
    Are you sure you don't have an underhood vacuum leak? There is a vacuum line that comes off the manifold and goes over near the brake booster. It provides vacuum for the controls on the AC. Common problem is for the hose to dry rot and collapse. The engine will still run okay, because you don't have a vacuum "leak", but the AC controls will go weird because they have no vacuum.

    I would sure check for that before tearing into the dash. The vacuum line repair takes maybe five minutes and will cost a couple of bucks for new lines.
  • johnss10johnss10 Member Posts: 46
    94 and 95 Blazers are a little different from the 96 and later. These are on what is basically the 93 chassis with the new body style. 9t6 and later are on a different chassis with different electrics and computers.

    In either case the default (no vacuum) position for the blend door is to blow air through the defrost and floor (heater) outlets. You may notice this happening while driving up a long hill with a load or at high altitude. The available vacuum under these conditions is not enough to keep the door at the dash vents (A/C).

    This could easily be a broken or disconnected vacuum hose. It may also be a defective selector. These are pretty easy to remove from the dash. While it is out, you can see if there is vacuum coming into the selector and going out the various ports as the selector is moved.

    If the actuator has to be replaced, then yes the only way is to remove all the dash stuff in the way.
  • skiextreme2skiextreme2 Member Posts: 30
    edited July 2010
    I have a 2002 Blazer. Also have a friend with a 1996 Jimmy with the same problem.
    I was told that the sensors for the gas gauge are on the fuel pump but they've replaced the fuel pump 3 times I didn't ask if the pumps were new or used.

    I've asked about this a couple times before, but now that I know that the problem is not unique, I would like to hear some explanations.

    They mentioned something about a vent tube going into the gas tank. Does anyone know about that. Is there a chance that could be a problem.

    I did get a code that suggested something in the evap system. I changed the gas cap and when the codes came back, the purge valve (the new one was less than half the weight of the old one if that makes any difference, but I had to take the hose end that has the spring off the old one because the one they gave me had a different hose/spring inlet).

    Please PM me if you have any info about this problem - it seems that if anyone has ever posted anything, I never got the message.

    Thanks.
  • hewybohewybo Member Posts: 10
    you and johnss10 are great! saved me countless hours and potential unnecessary expense - the vacuum line was indeed off. Cannot thank you guys enough!!!! (p.s -ya dint fix my lighter, tho............Tee and Hee) i have bics, anyhoo. thanks again!!!
  • skiextreme2skiextreme2 Member Posts: 30
    When I posted this it did have an explanation to what the problem is.

    2002 Blazer V-6, 4WD, auto. The gas gauge floats back and forth. Been doing that since a few months after I bought it 2 years ago. Started getting a double code about 8 months ago, (evap code, and I don't have the code here, but I think it was P0049 that suggested evap system).

    I have a friend with a 1998 (or 96) that has the same problem. They've replaced the fuel pump 3 times but it still happens

    I've replaced the gas cap and the purge valve but the codes keep coming back.

    If it's happened to 2 vehicles, it's probably happened to more. Does anyone have experience with this problem?
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Member Posts: 2,242
    Man, I wish I had a nickel for everyone who has this problem. It is common to GM trucks, Blazers, Jimmys, Tahoe, and Yukon for several years ranging from around '96 to '03 or '04, at least.

    Here's the deal: The sending unit is not connected directly to the gauge, it goes through the Body Control Module (BCM). There is a bug in the software that "averages" the signal from the sending unit. For one thing, it only averages when in drive. Reverse will get you anything from half full to empty. If you back out of a parking space, and the fuel gauge goes nuts, just pull forward and the first time you need to slow down or stop, shift to neutral and watch what happens with the gauge. It will swing back up. Put the car back in gear and all is normal again.

    Note that I have only seen this occur with an auto, but I would bet money there are ways it does it with a manual, too.

    There is nothing you can do to fix it. Sometime around 2004 GM corrected the software and the problem disappeared. I know this because my '99, '00, '02 all three did it, my '04 did not.

    Jim
  • 20blazer0020blazer00 Member Posts: 28
    Too bad that GM didn't think about making a recall for this. But then thats GM for you. With all the problems we all have that everyone has, it really makes you stop and think if GM really cares about what they build and sale.
    Actually mine does this too, all though not as bad as that, it doesn't read right that i know.
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Member Posts: 2,242
    Not a safety issue. I fought this one for over a year to no avail. 2000 GMC Sierra SLT with a $32K sticker (in 2000, mind you) and got a total run around. Which is one reason I no longer buy GM. Got tired of dumb-[non-permissible content removed] answers and runaround. :mad:
  • skiextreme2skiextreme2 Member Posts: 30
    This happens while driving, sometimes when I start the blazer and sometimes I can put it in neutral and it will go back to a higher spot but not always. I've had it go back and forth while simply driving down the road.

    I've never noticed the gauge doing anything strange in reverse.

    Thanks, at least I now have some ideas to work with.
  • 20blazer0020blazer00 Member Posts: 28
    True this one isn't. But the engine, door and 4x4 poblems can be. If not a recall they could at least come out ad be honest and upfront and admit that there are problems. And help by finding sulutions for them all , this is a good way to show they care about people that buy their products. Its only right when they can see that just about everyone ends up with the same problems, maybe I'm just fooling myself here but it's only right.Seeing this is the second car I bought that has a ton of problems, my other was a Pontiac Bonneville with the ill- fated 3800 series 2.

    All I'm really saying if not GM, I'm thankfull that all the owners have banded together to help each other repair the cars and trucks. ;)
  • lonewolfe69lonewolfe69 Member Posts: 1
    i have the same problem and mine didn't start till i blew a rear brake line
    any idea
  • masmith0207masmith0207 Member Posts: 1
    edited July 2010
    I have a 1999 GMC 4.3 liter, electric 4-wheel drive, four door Jimmy that just up and quit and the battery light came on, the battery is fine, it has a spark, there is gas, I thought it may be the timing chain, but that is fine. When we go to turn it over there is no compression. It sounds like it wants to turn over, we are at our wits end with this thing, please help.
  • johnss10johnss10 Member Posts: 46
    It's hard to offer many suggestion with such vague information.
    1. The battery light comes on anytime the key is on and the engine isn't running.

    2. How do you know there is no compression?

    3. How do you know the timing chain is good?

    4. How do you know there is spark?

    5. How do you know there is gas at the engine at the proper fuel pressure?

    4. What do you mean it sounds like it wants to turn over? If it doesn't turn over, how did you check the spark, timing chain, or compression?

    Ya gotta give us something to work with here.
  • sealteam8sealteam8 Member Posts: 11
    I agree with johnss10!!
  • pcguampcguam Member Posts: 1
    I also have a 2001 Blazer and my issues is now it will not engage any gear or any 4wd mode. Initially it was stuck in 4L and now it un-drivable. I stopped by the local dealer this afteernoon and it appears it may be the 4wd module. It cost around $500.00 out the door. Imaging what it will cost for the dealer to fix it. I am looking for more advice or help before I spend a dime. My next step is to disconnect the battery in hopes to reset the computer.
  • smileyfedexsmileyfedex Member Posts: 9
    Hi
    I had the same problem a while ago under the right side kick panel is were the 4x4 module is located unplug the whole thing and take it out and the truck should be ok it will be 2 wheel drive until you can get a new module while it is unplugged it will say service 4x4.....it will be a 2 wheel drive truck.......at least you can drive it really how often do we use 4x4....good luck
  • do_it_myselfdo_it_myself Member Posts: 10
    I have a coolant leak in my 97' Jimmy. It's more than just a leak, it's a flow. I have located the leak within a small area, but unsure exactly where it is coming from. I have pics ((posted below)) of it and the area is about the size of a softball. Does anyone have an idea of what exactly could be leaking?

    INCIDENT: How it happened was one night I was driving and the temperature gauge started shooting high, steam/smoke started coming from under the hood. Did some inspecting, obviously coolant is all over the place, but also ONLY a half quart of oil is in the motor?! I had no oil spots in the driveway and the oil gauge didn't warn me. The oil was due to be changed, but not overdue.

    image

    image

    image
  • nljewellnljewell Member Posts: 21
    I've got a 99 Jimmy, when I turn the steering wheel in either direction there is a clunk coming from the driver's side front wheel. I'm guessing its my ball joint but don't know if its the upper/lower one....or both. Is there a way to tell which one it us without actually looking at it? And also, can anyone give me some tips on how to replace it. Thanks for your help.
  • johnss10johnss10 Member Posts: 46
    edited August 2010
    First a rant The advertising crap that has been added to the site overlaps the forum text so that the forum is even harder to use than it has been. This is in addition to the crappy way the forum posts are organized. End of rant.

    About your question, it is almost always the lower ball joints that need to be replaced. These are the ones that carry the weight of the vehicle. The uppers ( on these vehicles) only keep the spindle in the proper position. Your local tire store or alignment shop will easily confirm that it is the lowers. These are no harder or easier than other vehicles, with pretty much the same procedure.
  • tidestertidester Member Posts: 10,059
    The advertising crap that has been added to the site overlaps the forum text so that the forum is even harder to use than it has been.

    I'm not seeing that and haven't heard of any other such reports. What browser are you using? Are there any browser settings that you can adjust?

    tidester, host
    SUVs and Smart Shopper
  • do_it_myselfdo_it_myself Member Posts: 10
    I have the same problem with the advertisements covering some of the posts.
  • tidestertidester Member Posts: 10,059
    Thanks. I'm passing that info up the chain. Anyone else having this problem?

    tidester, host
    SUVs and Smart Shopper
  • do_it_myselfdo_it_myself Member Posts: 10
    UPDATE: I searched a little deeper into this leak. I found that the water appears to be coming from the valve cover gasket? Hopefully this isn't indicative of a blown head? Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
  • tempestfidgettempestfidget Member Posts: 1
    I'm having the same issues and I noticed you posted this a few months back .....did you figure out how to solve the issue so it would pass inspections ?
  • hewybohewybo Member Posts: 10
    same problem -latest firefox-it's a pain
  • hewybohewybo Member Posts: 10
    unplug the hot wire to the positive terminal of the battery -wait 5-trouble light quits
  • tidestertidester Member Posts: 10,059
    Is it just here, in this specific topic or do you see it elsewhere. It's possible the oversized member submitted pictures on a previous page are causing the problem.

    tidester, host
    SUVs and Smart Shopper
  • do_it_myselfdo_it_myself Member Posts: 10
    edited August 2010
    The following pic is of the valve pan cover and head. Between the 2 is a coolant leak. Before I go taking it all apart, does anyone have any advice? Could it be just a gasket? Warped head? Or anything else?

    image
  • do_it_myselfdo_it_myself Member Posts: 10
    I searched a few different topics throughout the forum and this is the only topic that seems to have the advertisement hiding the posts. I do believe that it is the oversized pictures that I posted. It's as if the width of the box for the posts is dependent upon the size of the picture, and the advertisements do not change in size to compensate for the large picture. Maybe I can resize the pictures that I post from photobucket before I post them? I will see into it.
  • do_it_myselfdo_it_myself Member Posts: 10
    edited August 2010
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    If someone (or you) posts an oversize JPG and skews the page so that yo9u can't see the "reply" button, you can defeat this by going to the "Go To MSG #" box that appears in the gray bar at the top and bottom of the list of posts and typing in the number AFTER the one with the oversize JPG.
  • tree_guytree_guy Member Posts: 1
    My 2005 Chev Blazer only blow cool air. When I turn the dial to hot, the air stops but I can still hear the blower working. When I switch it back to cold, the air blows well again! Any ideas as to why?
  • johnss10johnss10 Member Posts: 46
    When you say you turn the dial to Hot, which dial are you referring to? The one that controls air temperature (Blue and Red), or the one that directs the airflow to different outlets.
  • 20blazer0020blazer00 Member Posts: 28
    Well I finally traded my blazer in, hated to do it because it was still a good truck to me. I only had two of the problems evryone was having: 4x4 not working and the driver door sagging. But never had all the other problems. But just needed something newer and less miles on it. Blazer had 150,000. I will always buy Chevy, mind you Chevy not GM as a whole. I was rasied with them an know how to work on them. So I traded it for a 2007 Impala 3LT with a 3.9.
    Hope you all have the best of luck with all of your Blazers, I will now headover to the Impala forums....Peace!!!
  • impalacabimpalacab Member Posts: 11
    It was funny reading your comment :) . I live in Sweden and have a 1998 Blazer LT that has had 180,000 miles and I only have had 2 problems with it. Exactly the same problems that you've had, sagging driver door and a non functional 4 WD.
    I have found out that all the electrical to the 4 WD works correct, the vacuum that pulls the wire work correct, so the problem must be somewhere in the front axle. Anyone that has a tip?
    Have a great day...
  • 20blazer0020blazer00 Member Posts: 28
    Yes, alot of others have gone through the 4x4 not working. I bought it and right off the bat they had it in the shop for 2 weeks and couldn't find out why it didn't work or why my switch would go from 2HI to 4 HI by itself. So seeing I live in the city and would never use the 4x4 I had them unplug it and that took care of it for me. As for the sagging door I replaced the top pin and bushings from AutoZone.
  • johnss10johnss10 Member Posts: 46
    My 1998 Blazer has over 210,000 and the 95 S10 pickup over 300,000.
  • do_it_myselfdo_it_myself Member Posts: 10
    I just finished replacing intake manifold gaskets. Of course, I had to remove the distributor, but I think I may have placed it in incorrectly. It took a couple of cranks before the engine would run, but it did. I let the engine run for a few minutes to allow the fresh coolant to circulate and to make sure that my gaskets were holding. I then changed the oil. I tried to run the engine to allow for the fresh oil to circulate and make sure that there was no water leaking into my oil, BUT it would not start. My dad says it sounds like it's "out of timing" and must be from not placing the distributor back in correctly.? So maybe I put the distributor back in wrong? How do I set it correctly? I am far from a mechanic, please feel free to "dummy-dumb" any replies to this post... I may need it. Thank you in advance!
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