Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!

Chevy Blazer GMC Jimmy Maintenance and Repair

1…6667686971

Comments

  • quantumtouchflquantumtouchfl Member Posts: 35
    First question... do they squeak all the time? or ... Just when you are applying the breaks?

    What kind/brand pads are you using? How long did the vehicle sit before you took delivery of it? How many miles are on the vehicle?

    I would advise you to replace all rubber brake lines... if they have not already been changed... Why??? Because… if it is made out of rubber... change it every ten years. I have experienced brake lines failing on the INSIDE... (no visible sign)... and causing damage and the need for replacing many parts in the brake system downstream of the line itself.

    On the brake pads… do yourself a favor… use Bendix… or the best quality pad Advance Auto parts has to offer… I don’t recommend the ceramics… good braking characteristics… but leaves a lot of gray dust on the wheels.

    I have a 96 Blazer... I can tell you just about everything there is to know about what they need as I have done just about everything to it since owning it.

    TJ
  • duntovduntov Member Posts: 133
    edited February 2011
    Next time install ceramic brake pads instead of semi-metallic brake pads.

    The advantage of semi-metallic pads is that they last longer than ceramic and are more fade resistant for better high speed stopping power. The disavantage is they wear the rotors faster, are noisy and creat a lot of oily black brake dust. I have alsways used AC Delco ceramic pads on my 1991 S10 Blazer 4x4. Ceramic brake pads are quiet and do not create rusty-black brake dust that sticks to your wheels, however, they do create a small amount of brake dust but it is not black and it does not stick to the wheels. Ceramic brake pads dampen noise, have good fade resistance and are easy on your rotors, but they wear faster than semi-metallic pads.

    I will install Bendix CT 3 ceramic brake pads next time. I like Bendix CT 3 ceramic pads because I feel like they are just as good as the more expensive AC Delco ceramic brake pads. The use of quiet ceramic pads requires that I must replace them more often but I do not have to replace the rotors.
  • rmont83947rmont83947 Member Posts: 2
    They put new rotors and thermo-quiet brake pads and O2 sensors but have noticed the problem started since they've changed the brakes and pads for inspection. The previous owners are a pair doctors and did not need the vehicle so they let it sit unused for some time till my wife ask about the truck. They said that they never had a problem with the brakes and never had any work done. It has 110k miles and I am amazed that it still drives like a new truck. The problem I am having is when you initially use the truck I have no problems but during the day of stop and go traffic or long distance driving the brakes start to squeak. Then the following day nothing till you drive it all day again. Advance auto suggested that there is a lubricant they you can apply to eliminate the problem, My mechanic is suggesting changing the rotor and brake pads for different ones.
  • quantumtouchflquantumtouchfl Member Posts: 35
    Lets review... It has new rotors... new pads... Who did the work?

    I have used Thermo-quiet... .and they are very good. Currently I am using Advance Auto ceramic pads. I have 222220.0 miles on my Blazer. To this date... I have never had to change rotors... not even close to needing changed.

    When a vehicle sits for a long period of time... (over six months), the brakes are going to need some service...

    What I really don’t know... and what I can not know... is exactly... what the noise sounds like. That would help a lot... and your mechanic... if he is good... should be able to tell by the sound... what the problem is. Vibration can cause a squeaking noise. Where the mounting tabs on the pads compresses with channel locks when installed... if not... they are riding loose and could vibrate.

    From time to time... my rear brakes will squeak... when I am leaving the driveway in the morning... (not warmed up yet)... Once they warm up... no more noise... About every six months... I check the rear shoes... (Bendix... they last forever)... usually have to change the front pads twice for every one time I change the rear shoes. During a checkup... I will take some sand paper... 100 grit... and knock the glaze off the shoes... I will then put a large container under the wheel... and use the hose to spray everything clean... then dry with compressed air... or sidewalk blower. Then I check all my lube points.

    What about the rubber brake lines? Where they ever changed? If not... you are running on borrowed time... They will fail... had it happen... they collapsed on the inside... the fluid could not release pressure on the rear wheel cylinders... the brakes stayed engaged... and I burned up both rear drums... shoes... wheel cylinders... and the seals overheated.

    The single rear axle hose had failed... (it cost about 15.00)... but it cost me a lot more to replace everything else. Rubber is good for about ten years... Also... what kind of brake fluid are you running? I would go with the Valvaline Synthetic...

    Let me know what happens...
  • duntovduntov Member Posts: 133
    edited February 2011
    Where I live, the independant repair shops have so much business they can "cherry pick" the cars they will work on. A 1986 - 1995 S10 Blazer is one they will try to avoid. Full service auto repair shops that do state inspections will not inspect a 1986 -1995 S10 Blazer with ABS 4WAL brakes because if there is problems with brakes, they are bound by law to fix the problem. The repair shop can run up a bill on those cars which is three times more than the car is worth. For example, a rebuilt ABS modulator for 4WAL brakes cost $800, if one can be found . When the customer gets the bill, the car owner will say, "keep it" and walk off and abandon the car. I would not trust an independent auto repair shop to check the air in my tires. There is no way to know what parts the repair shop put on your car. I will guarantee, it will be the cheapest parts thay can find to maximize their profits. if a auto repair shop was honest, they would go broke. The best independent auto repair shops are found in small town with a population of less than 15,000. If they rob a customer in a small town, it will all over town in three or four days. Therefore, an auto repair shop in a small town cannot afford to rob a customer because there are so few of them. .

    Rather than trust a buch of crooks at a auto repair shop, I personally replaced my entie brake system, including a new combination valve, master cylinder, new hoses, pads, front brake rotors, front pads, rear shoes and rear brake drums. It took about 5 hours to do all that but it took me and my associate about 10 hours to bleed the brakes with new brake fluid. That was before I found out I needed to use a Tech 1 scan tool to cycle and bleed the ABS modulator before I could bleed the rest of the system. It is nearly inpossible to bleed the 1986 - 1995 version of ABS brakes by foot pumping if you don't have a Tech 1 scan tool. Auto repair shops don't have a Tech 1 scan tool because those things cost from $800 to $1500 and a shop will not invest that much money in a tool that they may only use once a year. They just tell a customer with a 1986-1995 S10 Blazer..."Take it somewhere else".

    I will see in my lifetime when automobile technology will put all the independent auto repair shops out of business. Who will be able to afford to repair or maintain an automobile that is out of dealer warranty??
  • gibboneybgibboneyb Member Posts: 3
    Hi I have a 97 Jimmy and I just put a new alternator, battery, fuel pump into the truck. Its having trouble firing up in cold weather. It gets to the point where it starts hiccuping like its about to fire up but then stops... It starts in warmer weather and if I do get it started it takes a bit for me to get going when i step on the gas. Could someone help me???
  • smileyfedexsmileyfedex Member Posts: 9
    Hi
    I had the same problem ...It was the fuel pressure regulator ;)
  • gibboneybgibboneyb Member Posts: 3
    I dont know anything about cars. Is that part expensive to replace?
  • skiextreme2skiextreme2 Member Posts: 30
    edited February 2011
    If you've tried starting fluid and that didn't work, when's the last time your distributor cap, rotor and plug wires were replaced?

    Check the cap for corrosion, but if it hasn't been replaced in a few years, it's probably time.

    When the cap fails, the vehicle won't start. It might seem like it wants to start but won't. Plug wires last for a long time, but if they are bad, just as a bad distributor cap, they can work on and off.

    If you've tried starting fluid one time and that didn't work, go for the cap. If you get it running and you get very high idle, email me and I'll explain what happened to me.

    Rick
  • quantumtouchflquantumtouchfl Member Posts: 35
    Does anyone know what the service life span of the ignition coil should be? In other words... If there is 225,000 miles on the vehicle... would it be wise to change the ignition coil?

    My concern... I noticed smoke... coming out the back... during hard acceleration the other NIGHT... from onramp getting on the interstate. Changed 60K miles ago… Wires-AC Delco, Plugs- Bosch Titanium, Cap/Rotor-Jacobs Electronics but has aluminum contacts… changing out this weekend for AutoZone Gold Set with brass contacts $59.99. Searched the internet... best deal I could find.

    Thank you in advance for any info on this subject.

    TJ
  • sealteam8sealteam8 Member Posts: 11
    What color is the smoke? Blue or black? If it's blue you have a bigger issue. If it's black it's carbon. An ignition coils won't make it smoke. Try cleaning out your egr valve or replacing it. It's more than likely black smoke from carbon with the miles that are on it. Also could be piston rings are leaking under hard acceleration.
  • duntovduntov Member Posts: 133
    edited March 2011
    A ignition coil degrades over time. You never know how bad it was until you replace it. The coil should be replaced at least every 100,000 miles. The same applies to the ICM (Ignition Control Module) in the distributor. That device should be replaced when you replace the coil. Be sure to use heat sink paste (not dielectric grease) on the heat sink plate under the ICM and use new GM attachment screws because they serve as the ground for the ICM. Theuy are probably rusty by now. I recomend using Arctic Silver 5 Thermal Grease (heat sink paste) which is available at AMAZON or most electronics or computer parts stores for about $6 .. Always use a NAPA (or equal) distributor cap and rotor with brass electrodes. It is their most expensive Echlin cap and rotor.

    As far as white smoke coming out of the exhaust on acceleration, that indicates worn valve seals. That has always been a sore spot with Chevrolet S10 Blazers. Those seals usually only last about 30,000 miles before a puff of white smoke starts appearing out the tailpipe on start up. It will continue to get worse until the plugs start to foul and reaches the point that you will have to switch to AC Delco CR45TS spark plugs which are a higher heat range. After long periods of idleing (high vacuum) the white smnoke is at its worst when accelerating.

    Black smoke indicates the fuel injectors eeds to be cleaned. Use Chevron/Texaco or Shell gasoline with Techron. Techron works wonders for fuel injection systems and in-tank fuel pumps.
  • johnss10johnss10 Member Posts: 46
    I replaced the coil on my 1998 S10 blazer at 210,000 while trying to cure a cold weather miss. Changing the coil didn't fix it. The coil was about $30 from Rockauto, a web based parts house. The coil is a bit of a PITA to change since it is riveted onto the bracket. Had to grind off the rivet heads and then hammer out the rivets.

    The coil probably doesn't have any thing to do with the smoke. Blue or Gray smoke is usually oil getting past the rings and burning with the gas. Black smoke is usually over-rich with fuel.

    Another possibility is the transmission overheating (fatal) which will boil out the fluid and it lands on the exhaust pipe, leaving a trail of white or gray smoke.

    Good Luck.
  • duntovduntov Member Posts: 133
    It is too late now but GM/AC Delco offers a replacement bracket with bolts in a package that will allow you to install a new ignition coil without grinding off the old rivets and re-using the old bracket.
  • quantumtouchflquantumtouchfl Member Posts: 35
    OK... Thank you for the info John... The smoke I believe is a white/gray... the plugs are all clean... Transmission was rebuilt about four years ago... and running great. I suspect it was an ignition problem... as it runs great in all speeds and loads... just the smoke... and I experienced this before about six years ago... when my plugs had 100K on them. I only saw the smoke on hard excelleration... I went to check the plugs and as soon as I touched number one plug wire with the plug wire pliers to pull it off... the wire... fell off the boot... it had burned completely through and was just held together by a thread. As soon as I changed the wires, plugs, cap and rotor... the smoke and the check engine light went away. Up until now. I am intalling a new cap/rotor with brass contacts this weekend... and see what happens...

    Again... thank you.
  • quantumtouchflquantumtouchfl Member Posts: 35
    Thank you so much for the info.... I use only Chevron fuel... and at the same station. There is no smoke at start up... or during idle... before and after warm up... only a dusty looking smoke... on hard acceleration from 50 mph and up. I check spark plugs every six months... Bosch Platinum single electrode... I am on my second set of wires... and wish now that I had ordered the Jacobs wires five years ago... when I placed my last order for parts on my 81 Grand Prix... best wires I have ever used. I have not tested my wires in some time... but they are factory Delco... and I am sure they have over 100K on them by now. I will be looking at spark plug wires this weekend at the parts store... AutoZone... where I got my brass cap and rotor... brass... five year warrantee... best deal I could find local and on the internetl... made a big difference in idle.

    The coil... is mounted exteral of the distributor on a bracket attached to the intake. I will take your advice and change it... just as a matter of pricipal... and having 225K on it... but I will do the wires first... as they are the weak link in the ignition system.

    I did not know about the heat sink grease... thank you... I was using die electric when I changed out ignition modules... still on the OEM one as well. I have a used back up... tested and ready to go.

    I have not seen any smoke since I changed the dist cap and rotor... but not 100% sure I have done any hard acceleration... I will do so... before changing testing and changing wires this weekend and let you know.

    Also... I have used AmsOil Synthetics in this vehicle since I purchased it... used... with 80K... and all original plugs, wires, cap and rotor which I ended up changing at 110K miles.

    That's all for now...

    TJ
  • sealteam8sealteam8 Member Posts: 11
    My best advice is if u own a gm use acdelco parts. For some reason I have seen gm's do some crazy things with no deco parts so just my advice to you!
  • duntovduntov Member Posts: 133
    edited April 2011
    The OE ignition coil on my 1991 S10 Blazer included a bracket that is bradded to the coil frame and a replacement coil does not come with a bracket. Therefore, I had to purchase a GM coil bracket and bolt kit separately in order to mount a new coil. However, the ignition coil on your 1996 Blazer does not mount the same way as the coil on my 1991 S10 Blazer and you can reuse your OE coil bracket.

    Silicone di-electric heat sink grease comes in the package with a new ICM (Ignition Control Module) but don't use it. Look up "di-electric" in the dictionary and it means "insulator" . You do not want a grease that is an insulator on a heat sink. The purpose of a heat sink is to "conduct" heat away from a electronic device so that is why you should use Arctic Silver 5 heat sink paste on the ICM heat sink. . The only reasons silicone grease is recommended for the ICM heat sink is because it will not run out when it gets hot and it prevents corrosion. Always use new mounting screws when you install a ICM because the OE screws are probably corroded. The ICM is grounded through one of those mounting screws which passes through a brass sleeve in the ICM. Excessive heat and a poor ground due to corrosion will rapidly degrade an ICM .

    I use an Accel ICM because they send a longer electronic square wave to increase ignition coil dwell time to the ECM which gives the coil higher voltage saturation. An new AC Delco ignition coil is compatible with the Accel ICM. I have heard bad things about AC Delco Ignition Control Modules (ICM) but I suspect that rumor is from people who are using aftermarket high output ignition coils with a OE distributor and ICM. An AC Delco ICM cannot handle the draw of a high output ignition coil.

    Use an AC Delco ignition coil or good brand of replacement coil such as NAPA or Standard Motor products if "MADE IN MEXICO" bothers you. IMO, you should avoid Wells (Autozone) ignition and electronic products and they are "MADE IN USA". Wells Electronics made the Norden bomb sight during WW 2 and that device was not accurate.
  • dp2226dp2226 Member Posts: 28
    My 1999 Blazer is not blowing cold air or is very very faint. Charge was low so put some more refridgerant in. According to the gague was the correct amount. Also contained a dye and found no leaks.

    When I have the ac on the clutch will spin intermentianly every few seconds. sounds a little metallic when it kicks in, like a slight scrap of dry metal. Not sure if it is working or trying to cycle on.

    Is the ac clutch suppose to spin constantly when the ac is on?

    Going to try a new relay first but any help would be appreciated before I waste money on a new compressor
  • smileyfedexsmileyfedex Member Posts: 9
    Hi
    I would try bypassing the cycle switch and see if it gets colder if so they are $9.99 at autozone http://www.autozone.com/autozone/parts/Santech-A-C-Switch/_/N-91t6l?itemIdentifi- er=175014&_requestid=455251
    to by bypass it unplug it and out a jumper wire to it and see it the a/c gets colder
  • dp2226dp2226 Member Posts: 28
    Thank you, definitely will. Also just reading up and think I may of screwed up charging the system. I swear the can of 134a with uv dye said to hold the can upside down and periodically turn to 3 oclock position. I watched green liquid funneling through the hose. I am reading you do not want that to happen and should be kept upright at all times.

    Did I screw up?
  • dp2226dp2226 Member Posts: 28
    just reading up on the topic and think I may of screwed up charging the system. I swear the can of 134a with uv dye said to hold the can upside down and periodically turn to 3 oclock position. I watched green liquid funneling through the hose. I am reading you do not want to see liquid going in the accumulator and should be kept upright at all times.

    Did I screw up?
  • quantumtouchflquantumtouchfl Member Posts: 35
    edited April 2011
    Thank you for the great info...

    The ACDelco plugs I used are great... I have more performance... not that it was bad before... just forgot how good it really can be.

    I ohmed the wires... ACDelco 7.0mm... all are below 3.0... and they have over 100k on them. I also looks like my mpg is going back up to where it should be... I use to get 300 plus miles on the trip between fill ups... that being around 13 gallons... as I fill up when it is down to 1/4 tank.

    I am getting the Arctic Silver 5 heat sink paste... not sure where yet... I will try Advance Auto first... then go to the electronic parts stores.

    I want to run it for another full tank... then I replace the coil with an ACDelco one from Advance.

    Smoke from hard acceleration is gone.

    more later...
  • duntovduntov Member Posts: 133
    edited April 2011
    I have been using AC Delco #1 Rapid Fire platinum small center electrode spark plugs with a V-clipped ground elctrode and I have had great results with them. However, AC Delco (or who ever in Mexico is making them now) has recently changed the design of the Rapid Fire spark plug and now they appear exactly the same as standard AC Delco CR43TS spark plugs that I can buy for $2.00 each. The "new version" of the AC Delco #1 Rapid Fire spark plugs do not have a small center electrode and they do not have the V-clipped ground electrode and they have a cadimum plated shell instead of a stainless steel shell. The AC Delco 41-803 Professional spark plug seems to have replaced the AC Delco #1 Rapid Fire spark plugs but at an elevated cost of $4.00 each. I feel like this slight-of-hand trick is merely a way to get more money for the standard AC Delco CR43TS spark plugs by relabeling them and selling them as AC Delco #1 Rapid Fire spark plugs. The last set of the bogus appearing AC Delcco #1 Rapid Fire spark plugs I purchased were sent back for a refund.

    I am now using Denso "TT" Double-Platinum PTF20TT spark plugs (made in Japan) at $3.25 each and am more satisfied than ever. I am going to avoid the AC Delco off-shore tomfoolery. The Denso "TT" (twin-terminal) PTF20TT are pre-gapped at .040" and are the highest quality spark plugs I have used. My associate has a 2010 Corvette C6 Z06 and it came from the factory equipped with Denso spark plugs. Go figure.
  • quantumtouchflquantumtouchfl Member Posts: 35
    Has anyone thought about adding an external electric fuel pump... near the tank... for those who do not want to have the internal one replaced or the internal has not failed... but fuel pressure is just slightly low... 62psi? If so... is it possible? I know they have pumps that put out 65psi... Mallory for one.

    TJ
  • duntovduntov Member Posts: 133
    edited April 2011
    You cannot use a electric in-line fuel pump with a ECM (Engine Control Module) controlled vehicle. The reasons are as follows.

    The ECM uses voltage inputs from several sensors to determine how much fuel to give the engine. The fuel is delivered under several modes which are controlled by the ECM.

    The modes are:

    Starting Mode:
    ECM turns on fuel pump relay for two seconds to allow pump to build up pressure.

    Clear Flood Mode
    If the engine floods, it can be cleared by pushing the accelerator pedal all the way down. ECM pulses the injectors to a 20:1 air/fuel ratio and holds it as long as the throttle is wide open and engine speed is less than 600 RPM. Returns to starting mode when TPS is below 80% throttle.

    Run Mode:
    Open loop - ECM ignores O2 sensor signal
    Closed loop - ECM calculates Air/Fuel ratio based on O2 sensor signal for a 14.7:1 A/F ratio

    Acceleration Mode:
    TPS input, MAP (or MAF) inputs signals ECM to provide extra fuel.

    Deceleration Mode
    TPS input signals ECM to cut off fuel.

    Battery Correction Mode:
    ECM compensates for low battery voltage

    Fuel Cut Off Mode:
    Igniton off- ECM cuts off fuel to prevent dieseling and flooding.
    ECM cuts off fuel at high RPM to prevent engine damage.
  • ronna767ronna767 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2001 GMC Jimmy. The problems started off minor. Try to turn over a few times and would not start. Then it would. Husband changed spark plugs first and after that It drove good for a day and then it got were it did-not want to start at all. It would Turn over but not start... Then he changed fuel filter and did good for a few days again and now it's back again- not wanting to start- wiIt ll turn over but not start. When You turn the key to start you can hear the fuel pump kick on loud and strong. Any suggestions on what's next? The fuel pumps are not cheap so I am trying to save that as the last solution! My husband thinks strainer/screen in fuel pump is clogged so is there a way to clean that instead of buying the whole fuel pump? I called around and all Auto Parts stores say's even if screen is clogged I have to buy the whole fuel pump assembly and for this vehicle is like $280+ so I am really trying to save that as my last solution. Any advice will be greatly appreciated.
  • stanbcraigstanbcraig Member Posts: 1
    how did you solve that problem of the dead fish steering column?
  • chewy77chewy77 Member Posts: 2
    I read my owner's manual and tried doing a search on this site...but I couldn't find an answer. My Blazer is low on transmission fluid...at what location do I add more?

    Thanks!
  • my97_lolomy97_lolo Member Posts: 1
    i just replaced my upper and lower intake manifold gaskets due to leaking coolant from the lower gaskets. i put it all back together with all the sensors and wires plug in. i numbered it all and marked everything. the number 1,3 and 6 cylinder is not firing. the number one plug is dry. does any one know whats wrong or did anyone have the same problem please let me know. thank you.
  • kdibskdibs Member Posts: 1
    moog/mcquay & trw are very good.

    -ken
  • ncastorncastor Member Posts: 4
    I have a 2004 that I purchased used with 25k. I have experienced many of the same problems Ball joints, oil lines, thermostat, brakes almost every year, etc. This has been the worst vehicle I have ever owned as I would estimate that I have spent an average of $800 a year in repairs for various issues. In fact today, new rear brakes and rotors and was told the tranny pan is leaking and I have several other engine leaks.

    The worst thing is that their trade in value is horrible so I essentially have to hold off on trading it in until it is totally paid off.
  • duntovduntov Member Posts: 133
    edited July 2011
    The 1986 - 2002 S10/T15 GM trucks and SUV are delicate and are high maintenance vehicles. You must be selective and use more expensive top quality parts. The owner or rwho ever is doing the repairs must be qualified. The ABS 4WAL (EBC-4) braking system used on 1989-1994 S10 Blazers are particularily troublesome. You must have a $400 GM Tech 1 scan tool to bleed the ABS modulator. Not may shops have those tools because they would not use them very often.

    I have a 1991 S10 Blazer LT 4x4 in mint condition with 160,000 miles on it. I insatlled a freshly rebuilt engine last year with performance upgrades and it runs better than it did when the SUV was new. I am the second owner. My daughter bought it new in Bremerton Washington in 1991 and gave it to me two years ago after she got married. Everything works including the cruise control! I will never trade it or sell it because the trade in or resale value is less than $2000.

    I have had a full service auto repair shop tell me their "computer is down" in order to avoid performing a state (Texas) inspection on my S10 Blazer. Apparently, the shop assumed the ABS 4WAL brakes would not pass inspection and they did not have a GM Tech 1 scan tool that is needed to bleed the ABS modulator. I NEVER take my S10 Blazer 4x4 to a auto repair shop except for the annual state inspection. If I cannot perform the repair or maintenance myself, I call upon a qualified technician that I found on Craig's List. He can do anything I need done for 1/3 the price that a repair shop would charge. He works in my garage and he will let me watch him do the work and will let me furnish top quality parts.

    Never take any of your vechicles to an auto repair shop, especially those in a large metropolitan area!!!
  • quantumtouchflquantumtouchfl Member Posts: 35
    edited August 2011
    I got this code after I installed the Jet SCU 2000 Speed Contol Unit to correct for speedometer reading faster than actual. The device did not work... only two wires to connect... hot and ground. I only had to drive 100 feet... the transmission would not shift... and the ABS light came on. I disconnected the unit at the transmission plug... Another test drive... ABS light was out... and the transmission shifted normally. A check of engine codes revealed ABS Pump Relay Circuit open. I have tested the ABS while it was raining... working perfect... I hear the pump... and I feel the wheels momentarily loose traction before the pump kicks in. I have cleared the computer by disconnecting the battery for ten minutes. Checked for codes again... I get the same code... I do not know where the relay is located...

    Thank you for you help in advance... TJ
  • caddyvcaddyv Member Posts: 1
    Is it an xtreme model with a manual 5 speed or is it automatic ?
    If I am remembering the 02 model correctly....
    If Automatic -
    Allow time for the engine to heat to operating temperature.And keep engine running.
    Locate the transmission dipstick in back of the engine near the passenger side of the vehicle.
    Take the dipstick out of the transmission fluid well and fill untill desired level is reached.
    If its a Manual (xtreme model)
    Then you need to find the fill hold on top of the tranny on the passanger side i believe
  • dp2226dp2226 Member Posts: 28
    1999 Chevy Blazer 2 Door 4wd

    Trying to find a part number for the metal shims that go between the front wheel speed sensor for the abs and wheel hub. The shims adjust the high of the sensor so it does not interfer with the reluctor ring inside the hub.

    The part looks just like a soda pull tab. It is also one of the biggest causes of the abs activating a low speeds when they rust changing the gap on each tire.

    Called 4 chevy dealers and had no idea. Was not in the diagram. Rather not have to buy a new hub, it is only two years old with 7,000 miles on it. The sensors themselves do not come with them.

    Any ideas on a substitute would be appreciated, may just try to cut some out of a sheet of metal.
  • dp2226dp2226 Member Posts: 28
    I just installed a driveworks wheel hub from autozone last night. It was the only one in stock. Now the abs triggers on the other wheel. The driveworks hub had poor reviews(discovered after the fact). I want to replace the other hub to correct the abs issue. Does it have to be a driveworks hub to prevent fix my abs issue or will another brand work fine?
  • samcogassamcogas Member Posts: 1
    It was the fuel pump in my situation. I had 50 lbs with key on and 52 lbs at idle before replace ment. After new pump I had 55 lbs and 60 lbs respectivley. I also had more power when driving.

    GM has problem with fuel pumps. I was told from dealer.
  • steventnorrissteventnorris Member Posts: 1
    I just bought a '96 Chevy Blazer. The ABS light comes on steady. Attempting to troubleshoot, I found the lead power wires going to the ABS. One (black) is a ground. Two red wires are also present. One is from the battery and runs hot all the time. The other I'm not sure about, but isn't running hot ever aparently. Should this run hot from the ignition switch? Is it possible this is my problem? Also, I can't seem to find a schematic or any sort of diagram for this model. Does anyone know where to find one online?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    You should read the codes stored in the ABS system to give you more focus on your diagnosis.
  • fonziesmurffonziesmurf Member Posts: 3
    If you haven't found out by now:

    Near the firewall on the passenger side should be a small tube rising up near the throttle body. It is no more than 1 inch in diameter and has a small cap.
  • bigboy66bigboy66 Member Posts: 3
    Check and replace Disributor cap. Especially if this slow start issue occures on rainy or humid days more then any other.
  • bigboy66bigboy66 Member Posts: 3
    Check and replace the destributor cap. They carrode inside, and have a tendency to collect moisture.
  • alex85061alex85061 Member Posts: 5
    What are the best non-hid replacement halogen headlight bulbs for our vehicles?
  • duntovduntov Member Posts: 133
    I like Sylvania Silverstar sealed beam headlights for my 1991 S10 Blazer.
  • miss_jessicamiss_jessica Member Posts: 1
    My 99 4x4 blazer (160K miles) has had some problems with shifting for about a year now. The problem is intermittent, only begins after driving for long periods of time highway or city driving. Seems worse when the engine is hot.. Shifting gets very jerky between 1st and 2nd gears, also between 2nd and 3rd. Again, this problem only occurs after driving it for a while.

    Any insights? My boyfriend and I are expecting and would really like to fix this problem so I'll have a reliable car to cart the peanut around in.. He's very capable and willing to look into any suggestions you might have. Great with troubleshooting, just needs to know where to start the search!

    Should I get a transmission flush? Do you think it's a connector issue? I'm really hoping it's not my transmission that needs replacing! :cry:
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    NO! Don't get a "flush" but you could certainly opt for a transmission fluid drop, with a new filter. This is also a good time to examine the old fluid for signs of metal debris. Also, don't use additives. Do the fluid change and see how it goes from there. This is an old transmission so don't do anything drastic to it.
  • johnss10johnss10 Member Posts: 46
    I agree with Mr. Shiftright, a flush is only good for the shop doing it, not for the transmission.

    This kind of hard shifting is almost always due to the line pressure in the transmission being too high. There are several possible causes. The PCM computer is supposed to regulate the pressure based on the driving conditions. For example, more pressure for high RPM shifts, less pressure for slow speed shifts. so it could be a computer issue or a pressure regulator valve issue, or something else.

    I think your first step should be to take it to a local (not chain) transmission shop for a filter and fluid change. Ask them to read the codes associated with the trans. Then you will have some knowledge of what to do next.

    The design life of these transmissions is 70,000 miles, to last through the 50,000 mile warranty period and then a little more, so be prepared since you are already into the third life.
  • chevyman0073chevyman0073 Member Posts: 2
    I have had the same problem!! It's not the computer or the push-button 4x4, it's the 4x4 "Diaphragm" "Accuator" for the 4x4 under the "Battery" Plate. Remove the "Battery" then remove the "Battery" "Plate", under it is a round rubber "Diaphragm" that has a really thin rubber outside. Sometimes Salt, Battery Acid, or Weathering can cause this part to crack and loose it's suction. (And sometimes it could just be the vacuum hose connected to the bottom of the Diaphragm has popped off.) If thats the case just put the hose back on and put a tie wrap around it. Or the metal clip that holds the 4x4 cable to the "Diaphragm" has rusted and needs to be replaced. It's very easy to do and a new "Diaphragm" isn't alot of money. I hope this helps!!!
  • chevyliferchevylifer Member Posts: 1
    I know this is a little late on a possible answer, but this may help. First off the advice to wiggle wires with an ammeter in line won't really help much since the fuse blows and you don't get an indication. Since you are blowing the ignition/gauges fuse it IS a primary wire. A primary wire is a large gauge wire, usually red. Do this at night since blowing this type of fuse will cause the problem wire to flash where it is rubbing. Use an old fiberglass fishing rod or a dowel and push the wires around under the hood with the ignition on but without the engine running. Hopefully you will find the offending wire rubbing on some assembly where you may not have to tease the wire out of a bundle going through the fire wall.

    good luck.
Sign In or Register to comment.

Helpful Tools

Most popular vehicles