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Chevy Blazer GMC Jimmy Maintenance and Repair

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  • mark226mark226 Member Posts: 2
    I am having problems with Starting 96' Blazer, it cranks and starts, i smell gas after starting...
    Have any suggestions? I had to put a new engine in it last sept.2001. only 20,000 miles on it.
    All wires, electronics replaced!

    Also, having problem with A.C. now. Not retaining freon...It leaks out after a week.

    What can I do to resolve these problems??
  • tbcreativetbcreative Member Posts: 357
    As far as starting, if you smell gas, then I'd check your fuel pump and lines. Sounds like a fuel delivery issue.


    For the A/C, I'd take it to a garage that you trust, or at least one that deals with A/C, and have them fill the refrigerant (not freon any more), and put their black dye in to find the leak. You'll have to drive it around for a couple of days for the leak to show up, but that's the best and fastest way they can find it.


    I just took my Jimmy in last month to have the vent fan resistor replaced and my A/C checked, because it wasn't cranking like it used to. They put the black dye in after replacing the lost refrigerant, and found the leak a week later when I took it back. It wasn't cheap to have the leak fixed, but I don't have a choice in August in Phoenix!


    This, and a whole long list of reasons, is why I'm trading my '98 4x4 Jimmy in on an all-new 2003 4Runner! Come on over to the 4Runner discussion and you'll see why. Also, check out the review here on Edmunds:


    http://www.edmunds.com/reviews/roadtests/firstdrive/74756/article.html

  • vjovjo Member Posts: 10
    Hi, I have ordered a 4WD/4Door/LS with almost everything on it, List of $29,198.00. My problem is that the full size spare that is shown as an option on the GMBUYPOWER site as well as the 2003 Blazer brochure. I do not want the full spare, but Chevy dealer says I have to have it per Chevy Corp. Called Chevrolet customer service, they said it was an option. They were worthless on really answering the question, refused to send me a Email saying it was an option, so I could go to the dealer with it. I Will be back home next Thursday and I am Going to cancel my order and buy A Ford Explorer. My reason is that if Chevy customer service has such a lack of concern on this, what would they be like if I had a major problem. GM/Chevrolet just don't care about the customer!!!!!
  • au9899au9899 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2001 Blazer 2WD, 40,000 miles. At medium speeds there is a vibration that seems to be originating at the front wheels. It is speed dependent and is maximum at about 50 MPH. I thought it might be a bad tire so I've tried replacing each front tire with the spare. No difference. The owners' manual doesn't call out repacking the front wheel bearings at 30,000 miles with 4-wheel disk brake models as it did on past front disk brake models that I've owned. So I haven't repacked them. I started wondering if I have a bad bearing. Any suggestions?
  • dwsiisdwsiis Member Posts: 16
    Good decision vjo. I had problems with my new Tahoe. The dealer was unwilling to repair the problems. I called customer service many times, E-mailed them repeatedly, etc. GM customer service's response... go to the dealer. When told I was unhappy with the dealer, their response....go to the dealer. If you are not related to the owner of the dealership don't buy GM.
  • mark226mark226 Member Posts: 2
    I found out why the Blazer wouldn't start from a very Poor Mechanic .
    After they put my Blazer up on the Diagnostic check , decided to fix by process of elimination!
    Very Costly and not efficient at all! They replaced all the wires, plugs, rotor cap, and distriburator. Before even acknowledging me the owner suggestions that it was fuel related. I had told them I had smelled gas in the engine, after trying to start vehicle...Once it started it smelled of gasoline...
    They narrowed it all down to The Fuel Regulator .
    The price for all the wires etc...was 561.00 w/labor and parts..Only to find out the real problem: Fuel Regulator. This part costs 70.00 and labor 261.00....
    I am really going to see if I can replace this part myself...

    I first brought into shop and they replaced fuel filter and air filter and decided to change my rear shocks for 400.00 total...
    So after all that work and money they still didnt repair the main problem, fuel regulator.

    Just for your information: Jasper parts are totally under warranty. Just keep the parts that were replaced and call and have them sent back to Jasper for Full Refund...This company backs there parts!

    I wish Mechanics were more trustworthy!
  • ryanbabryanbab Member Posts: 7,240
    You can get a donut?

    I thought all their trucks/suvs had a fullsize spare. It wasnt an option on my truck or my dads.

    I have to ask why would you want only a donut or no spare tire?

    Shoot i even bought a 3 ton jack and carry that around with me just in case
  • vjovjo Member Posts: 10
    Ryanbab, because I am a 102 lb LADY, not an OX!!!!!
  • ryanbabryanbab Member Posts: 7,240
    how much is the option?

    Do you still get a donut or no tire at all?

    Also a fullsize spare is a much better idea to have. What if you are far from home (vacation or something) you get a flat. A fullsize spare wont leave you stranded. With a donut you are only supposed to travel a short distance until you are able to get the fullsize fixed

    Ryan
  • tidestertidester Member Posts: 10,059
    ...because I am a 102 lb LADY, not an OX!!!!!

    Actually, we already presumed that. Oxen cannot legally drive a motor vehicle on public roads. Their inability to pass the written test along with their stubbon refusal to wear corrective lenses for short sightedness preclude them from obtaining a driver's license. Also, their typing skills are virtually nonexistent! ;-)

    tidester
    Host
    SUVs; Aftermarket & Accessories
  • scott500scott500 Member Posts: 4
    I have taken my 98 Blazer LS to three different places to find out why the service engine light is always on. After some unnecessary parts being replaced, the problem still remains - No one seems to know for sure. I think there may be an electrical issue. Anyone had the same problem?
  • dylan100dylan100 Member Posts: 1
    I just bought a 99' Blazer LS with 34K on it. It seemed to start somewhat hard since the purchase, however recently it has been starting very hard.
    Sometimes it will start strong with no issues and other times it turns over very hard. On the occasions when it starts hard, the radio resets to 1:00. I tend to think it is some type of electrical/ignition issue. Does anyone have any thoughts??
  • scott500scott500 Member Posts: 4
    I own a 97 Blazer which I bought in 1999 and had the same hard starting problem once the weather got colder. I had all 6 fuel injectors replaced (luckily under warranty) and that fixed the problem. I have come to realize that Blazers have a history of fuel part problems. It seems that if the fuel filter doesn't get replaced every 10k miles it will lead to problems with the fuel injectors & regulator. By the way if you own the vehicle for another 60k miles budget some $$$ for a fuel pump. I had mine replaced recently - fuel pump cost $536 labor $200+. Also, my Blazer has electrical issues as well. You may want to consider selling the vehicle in the near future while it still has some value. Blazers don't hold resale value very well compared to other SUVs. I wish I sold mine a year ago.
  • spoomspoom Member Posts: 85
    why this thread is over 500 entries long. Rather than ask us to type it all over please skim through the whole thing and you'll find plenty of company regarding these really poor vehicles.
    ¿spoom
    PS that icludes my $3k worth of repairs in one 12 mo. period (and that's probably not the record)
  • depawldepawl Member Posts: 6
    Anyone know if it's normal for the security system light (small red light on the dash just to the left of the steering wheel) on a 98 Jimmy to blink when the vehicle is off? If not how do I fix it? You might say "just check the manual dummy", but my daughter has the vehicle 2 hours away at college, and when I suggested she check the owner's manual....... well, let's just say I'd feel more comfortable getting the answer here.
    Thank you.
  • depawldepawl Member Posts: 6
    scott500
    I have the same problem on the same vehicle (actually it's a 98 Jimmy). My mechanic says he gets a misfire code when he scans it, otherwise he's found nothing wrong. He just resets it then a few weeks later it comes back on again. Have you had any luck with yours?
  • gpigggpigg Member Posts: 3
    Depawl,

    My 98 Montana has the same blinking light, it's a good thing, indicates that the security system is on, no one will drive the car away with that integrated security, It disables the fuel system. Now if we could keep them from loading up the vehicle on trailers and taking them.....
  • rickncherylrickncheryl Member Posts: 4
    I RECENTLY CHANGED BATTERY, TODAY I BRAKED AT A CAUTION LIGHT THE VEHICLE IMMEDIATELY ACCELERATED TO THE POINT THAT I JAMMED ON THE BRAKES AND THE VEHICLE WAS SQUEALING TIRES. I THREW IT INTO NEUTRAL SO THAT I DIDNT REAR END THE CAR IN FRONT OF ME TAPPED THE BRAKES AND IT WENT BACK TO NORMAL
    IDLE. I DROVE ANOTHER 8 MILES STOPPED AT A STOP SIGN AND IT DID IT AGAIN. I STOPPED AT MY MECHANICS AND HE SAID THAT HE NEVER HEARD OF SUCH A THING. WE TEST DROVE IT FOR ABOUT 5 MILES IT DIDNT DO IT AGAIN. I LEFT THE MECHANICS AND SURE ENOUGH ON THE WAY HOME IT DID THE SAME THING ANY IDEAS OR SIMILIAR EXPERIENCES ?????
  • abc246abc246 Member Posts: 305
    Your post is somewhat contradictory. The title says the Blazer accelerates upon braking and the text states the Blazer was unintentionally accelerating and you had to apply the brakes. I will assume the Blazer was unintentionally accelerating and you had to apply the brakes to control it.

    The computer cannot advance the idle enough to do this, so it must be a mechanical problem. The computer does not advance the throttle to control idle, it uses an IAC device that basically allows air to bypass the throttle plate in a controlled manner. The orifice is only so big and thus is limited to the advance in idle it can perform.

    The most common problem is carbon build up on the throttle bore causing the throttle plate to stick. Most of the time this will cause the gas pedal to stick momentarily when pressed, but I guess it could work the opposite. I would clean the plate and bore with a spray type carburetor cleaner and a rag. The next possible problem could be binding in the throttle cable or throttle plate return spring.
  • rickncherylrickncheryl Member Posts: 4
    I APOLOGIZE FOR THE CONFUSION IN MY MESSAGE,WHAT
    MEANTTO STATE IS THAT AS I APPLIED THE BRAKES, THE VEHICLE ACCELERATED AND I HAD TO APPLY BOTH FEET TO THE BRAKE PEDAL TO KEEP IT FROM HITTING THE VEHICLE IN FRONT OF ME. I HAVE TAKEN YOUR ADVICE AND SINCE DOING SO, THE VEHICLE HAS BEEN OPERATING OK AGAIN THANK YOU FOR YOUR ASSISTANCE
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    It's easier to understand comments when you don't "shout" - lower case is much easier on the eyes. Thanks.

    Steve, Host
  • chevy350ls1chevy350ls1 Member Posts: 1
    I own a 89 Blazer Sport 125K and from all other blazer owners I talk to there seems to be this problem of hard starting. Perhaps this is just the nature of the 4.3. After all it really isn't a "balanced" engine. However other than this problem my blazer is the most reliable vehicle I have ever owned old or not! Thinking about purchasing a new one soon!
  • rjhallrjhall Member Posts: 2
    I was just at the autosafety.org site looking at service recalls and saw something about this. (Sorry, I didn't read it. I was looking for my latest problem.)
  • rjhallrjhall Member Posts: 2
    The latest problem on my '96 Jimmy 4wd, 4dr, SLT?
    Main brake lights inop, (hi-mount 3rd light still works). I replaced the bulbs. Turn signals, tail lights, flashers all work. No brake lights.
    Dealer tells me over the phone 'It's probably the multi-function lever ('turn signal', in english) but we have to charge a $100 diagnostic fee to be sure'. Surprise! it's the multi-function switch! That'll be $235 for the part, and with labor and the diagnostic fee it comes to $488.92. I give up!
  • cliffwilsoncliffwilson Member Posts: 25
    Failure of the multi-function switch (turn signals, hazard lights) results in the condition you experienced (stop lights inoperative/high mount stop light operative). I know for the 2000 and 2001 Blazers this problem was the subject of a recall. The multi-function switch was replaced in these vehicles at no charge. I'm not certain about the 96 model year. However, you may want to investigate since GM has acknowledged the existence of a defective component that compromises safety.
  • mtuppsmtupps Member Posts: 1
    My problem seems to be related to gasoline.
  • canayjun64canayjun64 Member Posts: 34
    Hi everyone,
    I have done some searching in this discussion category concerning the infamous oil cooler lines. I have found 26 entries in total and I have yet found any mention of a recall. Is there? If so I would appreciate it if I could obtain the TSB.

    There is an obvious engineering design flaw for this let me tell ya!

    Yesterday I purchased both cooler lines for my wife's 96 Jimmy for a total of $160.00 (that's $250.00 Canadian my dear friends) and I'm not too happy about it, especially when the dealers have the complete monopoly of having the parts all to themselves. I was unsuccessful in finding the lines in parts stores throughout Canada. Go figure!

    Have a nice day all....
  • peakgnomepeakgnome Member Posts: 1
    I have been researching the same issue with no luck. In February I had my wife's 96' Jimmy serviced for the ABS recall and also had the service station check out an oil leak. It turned out to be the oil cooler lines, which they replaced $302 later. This was not the end of it. Last night she returned from a trip and after parking in the driveway I noticed a puddle of oil forming on the ground. She lost 3 1/2 qts of oil, luckily it hadn't overheated. It turns out it is the same lines I had them replace just this past February. There is a define problem here!

    Hopefully the Service Station will replace them at no charge, but I doubt it.

    Please let me know if you find any further information on this issue.

    Thanks
  • poisondartfrogpoisondartfrog Member Posts: 102
    On my '97 Bravada, leaking oil lines were replaced the 1st time at 34,400 miles on 4/12/00. The GM P/Ns were 15726903 "pipe", and 15701719 "seal". At 46,500 miles, on 2/26/01, the leaking oil cooler lines were replaced again. This time, the GM P/Ns were 15760333 "pipe" and 15760334 "hose". I was told these were the updated P/Ns to address oil cooler line leakage. I'm now at 68K miles, and while I recently spent $1700 to have the oil pan gasket AND the timing cover gasket replaced for oil leakage, the oil cooler lines are presently NOT leaking... for now.
  • del289del289 Member Posts: 2
    the grinding noise in gear is caused by the
    exhaust y-pipe flanges bottoming out on the exhaust manifolds.the fix is to remove 2mm from
    the exhaust flange stand-offs and replace the
    manifold pipe seals with thicker seals.
  • scott500scott500 Member Posts: 4
    depawl,
    I have not had much luck with the service engine light issue. It is an intermittent problem and recently had it checked out with my mechanic during a regular maintenance visit, and wouldn't you know the light was off while in the service station. The light is on and off so often it's something I don't even have much concern for anymore. I imagine someday it will indicate something serious, and hopefully I won't get stranded somewhere.
  • scott500scott500 Member Posts: 4
    mtupps,
    What was the nature of your gasoline problem?
  • jimsxnjimsxn Member Posts: 108
    Sorry...but you make an interesting case study. Can I ask what motivates you to buy an SUV? It seems a logical assumption that you are not towing/hauling/off-roading with it.

    Have you give a thought to station wagons/minivans?

    Thanks.
  • ryanbabryanbab Member Posts: 7,240
    Have a part number for an autotrac switch for a 00 Blazer?

    Thanks
  • ryanbabryanbab Member Posts: 7,240
    Got a reply from partszoneonline.com about the autotrac switch

    Sent em an email last night and they got back quick

    List is like $50 my price is $32

    Part number is 15037124
  • ekuhnsekuhns Member Posts: 1
    This is a post that I haven't seen yet. I have a 2000 Chev. Blazer LS and the liftgate will not

    open. You can hear the mechanism working when you

    unlock it with the key, but it will not release.

    Has anyone had this problem with their Blazer.
  • vango01vango01 Member Posts: 1
    My 96 Blazer LT has problems with extreme heat it seems... This summer, when 90+ temps (no problems in 85 deg. or less temps), it would stall, but immediately restart. Luckily, I'm in Denver, so not real hot too often. Temp gauge is fine, mid range, doesn't fluctuate at all with the problem. Has problems with upshift too. Can floor the pedal and RPM goes over 5-6k before shifting into next gear...again only happens with the heat...mostly does it from 1st to 2nd but is fully capable of doing so driving 65mph on highway as well. Biggest pain is the thing will stall at stoplights/signs (but re-starts immediately) with the same apparent shifting problems as before. Any ideas? Fuel injectors fine, fuel pump less than 1 yr. old, new alternator and battery. Winter time now, so it's running fine, but I fear for the summer.
  • blazergirlblazergirl Member Posts: 1
    I love my 94 S10 -- recently however, the steering wheel has started to vibrate, no matter what speed I'm driving at -- any suggestions?
  • rstulc1rstulc1 Member Posts: 1
    Hopefully, this problem will seem common to others:
    My mom has a 2000 Bravada,(bought new off the lot), and with only 12K miles, the check engine light came on, and stayed on. She took it in and evidently when you put the gas cap on, you need to make sure you tighten it REALLY well. I thought this was rather dumb at first, but it fixed her problem. Then Saturday, 12/28/02, my wife and I bought a 2000 Jimmy (same engine, trans,etc....). Then just today, my check engine light came on. At first I was pissed, and took it to the dealer I bought it from. Then I remembered my mom's ordeal. So I tried it. NO DICE!
    Anyhow, the interior fit and finish it total crap. Rattly and squeky plastic everywhere. And I knew this when I bought it. But my wife likes the 2DR for easy of driving and it's "sporty".
    Also, when I open the rear tail-gate, the windshield wiper leaks wiper fluid EXTREMELY bad. Any hints?
    P.S. Do the 2000 models have this "bad oil cooler lines" I've been reading about?
  • rick134rick134 Member Posts: 2
    today I had the best automotive experience I've ever had, I got rid of my 97 Jimmy!!! I had more problems with this pile of junk than all 8 of my previous vehicles combined. I will absolutely never purchase another GM product. GM never once tried to make things right, "Refuse and Deny" should be their company logo. But all is good now, my family and I have purchased a Pathfinder, which we know to be a good vehicle its what we traded in for the "SHIMMY JIMMY", as my kids called it! GOOD LUCK AND SO LONG
  • abc246abc246 Member Posts: 305
    You guys are right on with the quality of these SUVs. My 99 Blazer is also the worst car or truck I have ever owned! The American manufactures are not impoving quality. I don't think I will ever buy GM again either. The stupid executives of GM wonder why their market share is declining!! They must be the dumbest bunch of guys in the auto industry! I truly admire Toyota, Honda, and Nissan for their quality.
  • kkarlewskikkarlewski Member Posts: 2
    Hello everyone! have been reading all the stuff about blazers, WOW! Hope I don't have half of them,would like to know were to start looking for a cure to my driver window dead without warning. One day it's on the next its not,is this something I can repair? how do I tell if its the switch,relay(if its separate?),motor,etc? Read some similar text,I have $200.00 deductible warranty,that covers this ,any help on what direction to go would help. enjoyed this site, don't feel alone any more. thanks! ken
  • spoomspoom Member Posts: 85
    The entire window/lock control assy. can be removed and a new one plugged in without too much trouble. Check the local parts yard and see if they have one for a decent price or will work something out for a trial swap to see if that is the cause. The actual switches at each position are a DPDT "snap switch" with a c-spring and contacts. The buttons can be removed and the upper cover of the switch removed with a little crotchet hook to undo each end. The covers are rather delicate though, and if you break one then you'll have to get the new unit.
  • spoomspoom Member Posts: 85
    The switch modules and PCB are held into "lace curtain" runners with tabs twisted 45°. Your problem may be a bad twist or poor contact. You can take the controller out of the door panel and pry it's bottom cover off to see the twisted tabs. Just solder each 45° twist and see if that cures it. Kind of a pain, but it's free.
    BTW if you go back in this thread and see my posts you'll know I hate my '97 too :) Can't wait 'till I can afford replace it.
  • jimsxnjimsxn Member Posts: 108
    According to specs, it seems to be a pretty sturdy son of a gun....

    Or is this forum used for reporting problems only?
  • spoomspoom Member Posts: 85
    The heading of "Chevy Blazer/GMC Jimmy Problems" should be a tipoff, huh?
    : )
    Seriously, when it's running it is a great little truck. Good handling and power, lots of extras, comfy ride, etc. The problem for me is that I can't trust it or justify the expense of everything that goes wrong with it I spent over $3000 US in just over a year and there are still issues I simply leave unresolved because I'm sick of the hassle. Sending unit needs to be replaced so the gas gauge doesn't go from ¼ back up to full all by itself. Wipers work when they feel like it. Service engine light wanders on and off for a day or two every month or so. I wouldn't be so bitter if GM had backed me up but they were pathetic in every way. I will never buy another GM vehicle as long as I live, just for spite and to show them how short-sighted their strategies were (are).
  • ramped1ramped1 Member Posts: 159
    I sympathize with those who have had quality/service problems with their Blazers and Jimmys. It was with some trepidation that we bought a new '99 Jimmy three years ago just as the 2000 models were released. I figured it was a calculated gamble. Not all of these vehicles are junk, as our experience can confirm. We had to have the head gasket replaced at 5,000 miles, which was no fun as we didn't have the vehicle for about a week, but GMC handled it under warranty and provided us with a rental. The only other problem we had under warranty was a door window lift, also replaced under warranty. A tire wear issue was resolved with simple line up. At 39,000 miles, I decided to go ahead and put on a new set of tires and keep it, as it seems to be a reliable vehicle. Factor in that this SUV cost thousands less than anything comparable, and it isn't a bad deal for (hopefully) the majority of those who bought one. The reason I post this is to give those who are considering puchasing one of these SUVs as a used vehicle a little perspective. There is every possiblity that our Jimmy will start spewing problems tomorrow, but so far, we've been lucky.
  • spoomspoom Member Posts: 85
    I put over 300,000 miles on my 5 Toyotas with no problems, but couldn't afford another 4 Runner (divorce) so I tried the Jimmy. No repairs on any of the Toy trucks except for replacing a leaking radiator on my '79 'Runner at 86,000 miles, and before your Jimmy's second oil change it needed a head gasket? Good luck, really. At least your tranny hasn't been out twice already and a wheel collapse up into the wheelwell while driving. Obviously they're not all bad, but that doesn't help those of us who have been wronged.
  • ryanbabryanbab Member Posts: 7,240
    Id say so.

    My mom, brother and I were all in her blazer yesterday stopped at a light waiting to turn left. Heard a horn went to look in the pass side mirror next thing you know my face is going for the dash (seat belt saved me). We got rearended by a newer escort (guy never hit the brakes and it was estimated 30-40mph hit). Only damage was the bumper which was dented and also pushed in and the license plate bulb cover got knocked out. The hatch works but we didnt try the liftgate (gonna wait till it goes into the bodyshop). Oh yea the guy stayed for 5 min then decided he was gonna leave. Hit & Run *%&#^&#%^#%^#^%#%^#.

    I was very impressed at how well the blazer took the rear end hit :)

    We are all a little sore but no major injuries

    I dont even want to know what would have happened if he hit my silverado (might have went under it and hit the rear diff.
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    That's not a great way to find out how sturdy it is! Hope everyone is ok and the soreness fades fast.

    Steve, Host
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