Chevy Blazer GMC Jimmy Maintenance and Repair

tiambo · April 2003

My first post, also! Sorry it's so long, but I have a lot to get off my chest. So far, I think I've experienced almost everything bad mentioned on this page. I haven't had the wiper problem yet. This is what I drive: 2000 Jimmy SLS (2-dr.) with 60,000 "easy" miles. This is what happened (so far):
-Gas gauge doesn't work (I already replaced the cap)
-4WD doesn't work
-Persistent SES light. The code was "too rich." Once the code was cleared a few months ago by a friend, it didn't come back - yet. The dealer wanted $600 to replace the fuel pressure regulator to fix this.
-Wheel bearings (is that the ball joint?) wore out at 40,000 miles
-Glove box light flickers
-Various rattles, squeaks, buzzes and other noises

There's a few other things that I'm forgetting, but who could blame me? I communicated with GMC Customer Assistance about all this, and was told (as expected) that I was out of warranty (barely) and they couldn't help. The point is, I feel like I got ripped off and there's not a thing I can do. How can we all have the same problems, and GMC gets away with it? Thanks for the vent. Now, does anyone have any suggestions, either mechanical or legal?

tiambo · April 2003

I forgot one other thing that might be helpful for 4WD problems. The cable that runs from the vacuum actuator to the front axle is routed directly underneath the battery. When attempting to fix the 4WD, I replaced that cable. I went to a dealer for the new cable, and the parts guy told me he sold 6 of those cables for the Blazer and Jimmy in the last two weeks! Apparently, the problem here is that the battery leaks and deteriorates the cable quite frequently. Unfortunately, this did not fix my problem.

palmoyas · April 2003

tbaybuc, with all of the wind and potholes here in Ohio lately is has been difficult to determine the improvement the ball joints made in the vibration problem, but since I found some smooth patches of highway it has been smooth sailing from 65 and up (took it to 78 w/o a problem).

jrl5, what is a "Moog" part? My 1997 truck's VIN didn't fall under the recall. The recall was only for uppers anyway. I was told by my mechanic and the dealer that my uppers were fine anyway.

jrl5 · April 2003

palmoyas, Moog is the manufacturer of the ball joints. These parts have a grease fitting whereas the GM parts are a closed/sealed unit. Anything has to be better than the GM crap parts that only gave 31K and 21K miles out of them.

sugarcookie · April 2003

First I'd like to say that I have a '91 blazer S10. I've owned it since 1993. Never had a bit of trouble with the engine. My problem now though is the digital dash going on and off ( mostly off ). Any suggestions what to do. I really love the vehicle and would like to keep it - even with 148,000 miles on it. It still runs circles around many other vehicles! Also, I was looking at '00 and '01 blazers. However, I don't like the daytime running lights. It's a ticket waiting to happen. Can the running lights be disconnected? Otherwise, won't even consider it. Any and all responses will be appreciated.

Sugar Cookie

ryanbab · April 2003

I know with the 00 blazers you can press down on the parking brake until it clicks (not on) and it will disable the drls.

Just curious why are the drls such a big deal?

abc246 · April 2003

Ryanbab is right on the disable of the DRL. But, you would be wise to keep them on. I get a 3% discount on my insurance because of them. I bet you can guess why.

sugarcookie · April 2003

I do alot of highway driving ( fast highway driving ) and I always felt that my vehicle could be see from quite a distance away with drls. I kind of like to just blend in with the rest of the traffic. The discount for insurance is nothing compared to the cost of a ticket on my license for the next several years.

lwest3 · April 2003

I have a 2001 GMC Jimmy. It has less then 65000 miles on it. Last monday I put the Jimmy in reverse and "pop" then engine whinned... I was told today that it will cost $1900 to rebuild my transmission. Has anyone else had this problem with their Jimmy?

spoom · April 2003

did you lose 2nd gear too? If so, I'm guessing the shaft for the planetary gears that comes from the 2nd gear "basket" broke. That's what happened to my '97 (and plenty of others according to the guy who repaired it) cost me $1400. Try a search in this discussion for whatever I wrote, it's been about 1½-2 years now I think.

lwest3 · April 2003

Yes that seems to be what i was told. Reverse went COMPLETELY out and the gears are messed up... It will cost me about 1900 to fix - I bought this vehicle so I wouldn't have to worry about problems... especially with less then 65000 miles. If there are so many problems with them... why are they not recalled? Doesn't GMC want our "customer loyalty"?
I have replaced the ignition swith, muffler as well as exhaust system... and now this...

spoom · April 2003

found out the hard way that these aren't the vehicles to depend on-spent over $3000 in one 12 mo. period before it even had 60k miles on it. First (and last ever) non-Toyota vehicle since '76. Fool me once............

1choice · April 2003

2000 Blazer has vibration/shimmy at between 61 to 67 MPH. It begins at the middle of the vehicle (near the transmission area) then moves outward towards the front end. When cornering, the shudder gets worse. It is inconsistent at best. In colder weather, the vehicle does not do it. In weather above 65 it becomes progressively worse and is most consistent at 75 degrees. The uneven shudder can be felt alot on the passenger side floor board. Have already tried 2 different sets of tires, wheel bearing on passenger side, rear pinion seal and gear. Was all done under warranty, however, is now out of warranty.
After reading stuff on this message board, I am having serious buyer's remorse. Hope someone out there can be of help. Thanks!

ryanbab · April 2003

u-joint bad?

1choice · April 2003

ryanbab - thanks for opinion. Any reason why you feel that it may be the u-joints? Just curious? I was leaning towards unbalanced drive train, however, it also sounded like the problem another person had at 11,700 miles and had the whole rear end replaced, because the vibration is uneven and feels out of round when it does it. The vehicle currently has 51000 on it. Appreciate any further insights into possible solutions. Thanks!

ryanbab · April 2003

Is there any noise like a squeeking?

The problem sounds kinda like a U-Joint especially if you have 50K miles.

Do you have your tires balanced? Could also be that

1choice · April 2003

No sqeaking noises. Tires have been road force balanced and smooth as silk. The vibrations starts in the transmission area and is not felt in the wheel. The whole vehicle shakes when the vibration starts. It is worse in warmer weather. For example, today, it was 84 degrees and the shaking started at as low as 55MPH, and was remotely felt beginning at around 35 - 50 MPH. And feels really shaky while cornering.
It is customary to have to replace u-joints on these vehicles at such low mileage?
I used to own a Nissan Pathfinder, and had them replaced at 95000K and that was only a precautionary measure, due to long trips to Florida to care for my ill father. It really didn't need them when I did it.
Thanks for your input and any further you might have.

ryanbab · April 2003

i doubt this is the problem but what about an unbalanced/bent driveshaft?

waynea · April 2003

Hi,
I have a 2000 Blazer 2dr 4WD. At 32,000 mi the right front hub / bearing assembly had to be replaced at 35,000 the left front. Asked service manager if this was usual problem and if I was looking at this every 30,000 miles. He said no that this was just chance. Of course now at 66,000 right front needs replacement again (and I'll bet left in 2,000 more miles). First repair was under warranty so now they want to charge $555.00 for the repair. All service gets done at the dealer so they are usually pretty good about treating me well but they don't want to budge on this one. Will going to GM get me anything other than more angry? To top it off they say that if the first repair wasn't under warranty then this one would be free because it is a lifetime part. Of course at the same time they noticed the oil cooler lines starting to seep again which were also replaced under warranty. Based on the amount of posts about these problems I can't believe that GM isn't doing something about them.

Also has anyone done the wheel bearing repair themselves? I see the part is about $160.00 so I was thinking about doing it myself. Is it a hard repair? How about the front ball joint? (they tell me that is loose as well) I was going to get the Chilton's manual and see if that was in there.

Thanks,
Wayne

ryanbab · April 2003

My moms truck (00 blazer) has about 28K and a few wks ago had it in for the drivers side wheel bearing. Went bad and she was out of warranty. Cost to fix was like $400 something. My dad called and talked to customer service (my suggestion) and they went half on the fix so we had to pay like $200 something. Pretty bad if you ask me a wheel bearing only lasting 28K?

It was abou 5 months out of warranty

1choice · May 2003

I was thinking the same thing or possibly the hubs like on discussion #702 by Wayne. Although he does not discuss what the Blazer does (the symptoms that lead to the problems) that leads him to feel he has to re do the hubs again.
I will be making the long trip back down to the dealer where I bought it last November (300 miles one way). The service manager says that GM probably won't warranty the shimmey, although it has been a problem with the vehicle since the first warm day over 60 degrees. However, one bit of good news, the service manager did say that they would cover the engine oil cooler lines. So this discussion has been most helpful in getting some things warrantied that might not have been if I wasn't made aware of them.
Thanks for your help. Michelle

abc246 · May 2003

I got mine replaced out of warranty also for free. The Blazer had 44k miles and was over the 36 months by 6 months when the work was done. The SUV now has 84k miles. I had many problems during the warranty period. Have only had to replace the waterpump at 64k since. Still, way too many problems and low quality. I had to use expanding foam on all interior panels to keep them from rattling. Resale value is really low.

On the plus side, the engine runs great with no tune-ups, the transmission has been excellent, and has the SUV has survived 3 accidents. The engine is the best part of this SUV and could be the best in any mid SUV. Mine is running 7.61 sec 0 to 60! Amazing and get 19 mpg avg and 22 on the highway! I really drive this SUV hard on and off road. The low ground clearance is a problem and the skid plates/frame take a beating. I did not want to pay the price for a Toyota and still not sure I would. The 4runner would have cost me 10k more at the time and had a wimpy 3.4 V-6 (not acceptable).

1choice · May 2003

I can relate to the Toyota issue. After all the bad things I read in this area I started wondering if my Blazer would last very long, so I went and looked at a Toyata 4 runner yesterday. I was not impressed for the money. Had a very outdated interior and with only 29000 miles on it, I felt the ride was not near as good as the Blazer, even with the Blazer's vibration. AND guess what else the Toyota did, at the same speeds the Blazer does, the Toyota has a shudder. So, I kindly told the salesperson, no thanks! I can keep my shaking Blazer, which has more creature comforts and gives me the shaking for $6000 less than the toyota.
I agree with you on the engine of the Blazer. Mine runs like a champ. Great power in a crunch, a little slow on the hills of Missouri, however, just hit the gas pedal and off it goes! I really like the push button 4 wheel drive! That was really great when we had all the snow here during the winter months.
I also have the rattling door trim pieces. I thought about doing the same thing that you discussed. How well did it work for you? All that rattling drives me nuts!
I also agree with you on the quality issue. I have had several repair issues both during the warranty period and still working on one in particular. However, I have to wonder with so many of them on the road, they can't all be bad.
I am really hoping that this will be the last trip to where I bought it and the rest will be routine maintenance. I am in real estate and must have a dependable vehicle. Take Care! God Bless! Michelle

tbaybuc · May 2003

Thought you might like to hear my story.I am sure it sounds like every ones.
I bought my wife a 2000 Jimmy (62000 miles) 40 days ago. On day one I complained about a vibration at 60mph and higher. They put on new tires and said the problem was solved. It wasn't.
Took it back and they rotated and re balanced the tires, said the rest was normal because it is auto 4 wheel drive so the front drive shaft always turns and causes the vibration, shop foreman signed off on it again. I was not buying the excuse and asked the foreman to take a ride with me. After doing so he changed his mind and admitted it was not normal.I put it back in the shop for 6 days and they say they replaced the rear drive shaft fix a muffler hanger replaced a tranny mount and replaced the front right wheel bearing adjusted the drive angle checked all the wheels, U joints ball joints etc... They then told me that they pulled the front drive shaft and the vibration was still present. This tells me that the first excuse about it being caused by the auto 4 wheel drive was bull. Picked it up and to my surprised the shop fore again said it was fixed. It was not. I just wrote GMC a letter telling them about the situation and asking what do I have to do now. This is all covered under the 30day dealer warranty so it is all free, and will continue to be.
I should have bought an explorer
they also changed the oil coolant lines because of a leak.

1choice · May 2003

I did read some of the postings you had earlier. Thank you for putting them all in one condensed area today. I have had most of the same issues taken care of on my Blazer, with the exception of the last set of repairs you had. Unfortunately, my 30 days at the dealer was up last December and now the vehicle has 52000K. However, I was back at the dealer 4 times by the end of January trying to get the same issue fixed. Mine seems to be the worse in the warmer weather. In the cold, no vibration exists. Once things heat up, it is definetly present. I am hoping that when I go back to the dealer this time, they will find it. When it starts shaking it feel like the whole front end will fall apart at any given moment. I did not buy the "its a 4WD" either. I owned a Nissan pathfinder prior to this, 4WD, with 154,000K and never experienced the kind of shaking that I do on the blazer.
So, do you think I would have some recourse if I did write GM? By reading some of the other articles, it sounded like GM just didn't care and wouldn't do anything.
I put my previous repair order to the dealer in writing which explained the shaking, and while it was still under GM's certified warranty.
Michelle

abc246 · May 2003

This is not normal even for this SUV. Are you in autotrac when this happens? In 4wd? After hitting a bump? If not in 4wd, does setting 4wd stop it? Does putting on the brakes a slight bit stop the problem? Does shifting to 3 during the problem stop it? Does downshifting under power stop it? I have read a few posts somewhere GM had to add a class 3 hitch to solve a similar problem. One other thing, the front half shafts turn all the time on this SUV regardless of the 4wd switch, could be a problem with those.

Anything you can test or do to help solve the problem will help the dealer to find the cause.

1choice · May 2003

Thanks for all of the input. I have noticed that putting the Blazer into 4WD Lo only, has seemed to stop the vibrating for a short period. However, it is very short lived. Today, while driving the blazer, after using 4 HI, about an hour later of constant driving, the transmission had two harder shifts(jerks) felt from the transmission going from 3 to 4th, then about 5 minutes later another hard shift, however, this time it was felt in the rear axle area. First time it has done that! After it parking it for about an hour, everything was smooth as it was before in the tranny and axle area. I will have to try the other tests you spoke of to see if any of that seems to change the shaking. Thanks for the input on other issues to check before my trip to the dealer on Monday. Michelle

peterson33 · May 2003

I have written several times about problems with my '96 Blazer, 4dr, 4wd. I brought it in a year ago because of vibration at highway speeds. This baby REALLY shakes. They repaced my lower ball joints for about $500. It didn't help.

On this forum, I was told that GM would replace the upper ball joints no charge. I had the upper ball joints replaced and still have the vibration.

Also on this forum, I was told that it is possible to get reimbursed for the lower ball joints. I called GM cust serv and they were not much help. I called the dealer and they said they would reimburse me. What a shocker.

I'm going to see if a different dealer can fix the vibration/shimmy. I will first try the diagnostics discussed above. The thing that bothers me is that the dealer never tested the vehicle after proclaiming it fixed with the lower and then upper ball joints.

1choice · May 2003

After reading some of the posts on this site, I picked up on someone mentioning Alldata.com and the Technical bulletins available there. I paid the $24.95 to access the specific articles found on my 00 Blazer. I found one on Shudder from the transaxle/drive train area and went into the dealer armed with that. That is where most of my vibrations/shuddering comes from and at highway speeds above 75MPH the vibration is the whole trans axle shaking up and down, almost like an unbalanced tire however, the vibration is not felt in the wheel it can be seen in shaking things in the console area on the floor. The bulletin mentioned a computer test that the dealership can do which checks the rotation speed of the transaxle as opposed to the drive train. Apparently if the rotations are not equal in revolutions, it causes vibrations/shudders in the transaxle area. It also causes premature clutch wear in the transaxle. I told the dealer that I wanted that test performed because I feel that the problem may well be from the above described condition.
You might want to go to alldata.com and get the Technical Service bulletins for your specific year model, which may shed some light on what is going on with your Blazer.
I also made it clear that this was an ongoing problem and that I expected GM to cover the repair. We will see how far that gets me. I also made it clear that if they were unable to fix the vehicle, that I was prepared to talk with the owner of the dealership to take the vehicle back. I did not spend this kind of money to have an uncomfortable and shakey vehicle. I must say though, the dealership that I bought mine at is in Oklahoma, and they have been really good about trying to make things right. If people can get over the Blazer/Jimmy problems and want a different kind of Chevy/GMC, I would highly recommend this dealer. They have really tried to do everything in their power to fix this vehicle. Hopefully, this time will be the last time and I can return to a routine maintenance schedule for the vehicle.
Good luck on your endeavors with your 96 Blazer. Michelle

gmcdriver · May 2003

I have a 1998 Jimmy I recently purchased. I have been reading all the issues about ball joints failing early. Which years were most affected? How can you tell if they need to be replaced? Are there any kind of wear indicators? GM used to have the feature where the boss the grease nipple was screwed into would recede into the ball joint as they wore; however this is not the case on mine. I have jacked the vehicle up and noted some movement in the ball joints (guessing 1/64" or 1/32" on lower ball joint). Is this normal?

gmcdriver · May 2003

I have just purchased a 1998 Jimmy and after reading all of these messages I am checking things out to see what I am in for. Wrt wheel bearing failures, how did others know of the failures. Did the noise become very noticeable before failure? Did the noise develop over time? I am driving mine and listening very intently and am debating with myself whether I hear a low frequency rumble at 30-50MPH. Because the noise is so difficult to confirm, I am going to continue to drive for a awhile and notice if it gets worst. I am probably worried about nothing.

abc246 · May 2003

Not sure what you are talking about. The Blazer/Jimmy does not have a transaxle! They have a transmission and a transfer case; both have clutches inside.

Transaxle is a FWD term. For front axel drive the Blazer has a front differential, drive shaft, and half shafts.

peterson33 · May 2003

Thanks for the tip about Alldata.com. I will check it out for my model year. I can't stand the shaking but I can't stand trading the car in for $5000. It only has 55,000 miles on it. When I'm not on the highw

GMCDriver - If you haven't done it, I would bring your Jimmy to the dealer to have them check the ball joints. If they will replace the uppers for free then why not do it. Sorry but I don't know which years are most affected. Maybe someone else here does.

ryanbab · May 2003

You could definitly hear a loud hum with the wheel bearing going out. It was even hard to hear the radio.

tiambo · May 2003

See my post #683 in this discussion. Same problem with wheel bearings. '00 Jimmy SLS - diagnosed by the dealer with bad wheel bearings at 40,000 miles and $1200 to fix (front-left and -right). Finally fixed by some friends at 60,000 miles for $330 (the cost of two wheel bearings at National Auto Parts). Previous car? '88 Pathfinder with 200,000 miles and no problems! I wrote to GM Customer Service, argued with the dealer, and considered running for governor of Michigan to make some real changes! No success on anything yet. GM Customer dis-Service offered only this - "Sorry, we can't help you at this time." I will not help them either if they ever ask me (or when shopping for my next car).

1choice · May 2003

Sorry about the wrong term! I have been so upset about everything I have found wrong with this vehicle, I wasn't thinking clearly.
The dealer trip thus far has been unsuccessful on repairing the shudder/vibration. they did the test I suggested, however, all was found to be as it should. They did replace both engine oil cooler lines, which the service manager said that both of them were leaking. Could have cost me a new engine with only 53000K. He replaced them with the new type engine oil cooler lines.
Apparently the service manager when he drove home and to work for 2 days did not seem to find anything that was not as he put it "normal" for a four wheel drive. I sent him an e-mail that gave him even further specifics to duplicate the problem. I knew that I should have taken him out for test drive when I arrived with the vehcile.
At this point I am seriously frustrated that they are unable to find and fix the problem. It is still at the dealer, not sure when I will be picking it up. I have recently started looking at what I used to drive, a Nissan Pathfinder. Maybe I will trade the Blazer for one of those. Not sure yet. Michelle

palmoyas · May 2003

Well, after getting some considerable drive time on these new lower ball joints (in 30-75 degree weather) it is obvious that my vibration shudder is still with me starting at 65mph.

Has ANYONE been able to fix this? I have had an alignment, the upper ball joints are good, idler arm replaced, new brakes and rotors, and all differential and transfer case fluids replaced.

Could it be an engine or transmission mount? I also (sometimes) get a hard shift into reverse. I had a 90 Taurus that did some funny things (vibrations at speed, hard shifting, stalling) until the engine mounts were replaced.

1choice · May 2003

Mine is still at the dealer. They have told me once again, that tires are the problem and that they needed to be balanced again. I told him that at this point I doubt it is tires. Why you ask? Because when the new tires were on, it shuddered/vibrated on my trip down to Florida, then once in Florida I had the tires rotated and the shudder/vibration was still there in the front section of the vehicle. So, if it was tires, the vibration should have moved with the rotated tire and it didn't. Also, I mentioned that I found interesting that the vibration sensors that have been put on the Blazer each time have pointed to the right tire. So, I feel that it is time to start searching for what is causing the shudder/vibration to go from wherever it starts, out to the right front tire. We will see what happens.
As for a solution, as to date, there has not been one. If they finally figure out what is wrong with mine, I will most certainly pass it along to the rest of you.
Wish me luck! God Bless! Michelle

palmoyas · May 2003

I can't wait to hear what they say (guess) it is next. Please keep us informed.
Good luck!

waynea · May 2003

Just wanted to give everyone an update from my April 30th post about the front wheel bearings needing replacement again at 66,000 miles after being replaced at 32,000 (right) and 35,000 (left). After talking with the sales manager and service manager about all the problem information I have found with that component they said they went back to GM on this and that GM will stand by the repair and I won't have to pay (at $555.00 each I'm pretty happy). They also told me that the oil cooler lines need to be replaced again (have done that one before also) so after the bearings are replaced I'll start that campaign. I get all my service done at this dealer and have purchased 4 vehicles there so far so I'm pretty sure that is why they were willing to try on this. I guess there are still some dealers who believe in customer loyalty.

gmcdriver · May 2003

I purchased my Jimmy used. I inspected the oil cooler lines and they appear to be original. One of the lines running from the oil filter housing to the radiator oil cooler is moist with oil with a drop of oil hanging on the line. But other than that there is no evidence of oil drops on the garage floor...the leak is very minor. What is the experience others have had? Is this something that could be just monitored? Or does the failure happen rather quickly with little warning? If I knew the leak would get progressively worse before failing, I choose to monitor for the time being and save the $$. Comments?

peterson33 · May 2003

I have been dealing with the 60mph+ shutter for more than two years. Since I work from home I have been able to deal with it. I usually drive I around town. I have had the upper and lower ball joints replaced (for free), and the idler arm. I have had three sets of new tires. It still shakes.

The depreciation is tough to deal with. I was offered $5000 for a trade in and $6000 from Carmax. I do feel sorry for the sucker who ends up with this washing machine. I can't sell it to someone myself, even though I know I can get $8000 - $9000. Provided they don't take it for a test drive on the highway.

I just bought a Dodge Grand Caravan ES. Lists for $37,000, got it for $29,900 (invoice -$3500 rebate, -$1200 DVD rebate). DVD, heated leather seats, moonroof...

Thanks to all of you who helped me in the past. Without your help I would never have gotten the upper or lower ball joints fixed and who knows what could have happened.

My wife is expecting our first kid and it's time to get something (hopefully) safe and reliable.

kevlarian · May 2003

Ok,
I have been reading the messages here and am looking for help!

My brakes where shuttering at low speeds, so I brought the my 99 Jimmy in. They came back and said it was the left front wheel bearing causing the ABS to short and pulsate the brakes. I don't hear any noises or hums as others have said here on the board.

Could this be the problem? If so, I want to replace BOTH of them myself. How difficult and where should I buy the parts. I would like to have the best aftermarket parts possible.

Any help is appreciated.

waynea · May 2003

In posts 702 & 724 I detailed my problems with the front wheel bearings, oil cooler lines and upper & lower ball joints. I did get the dealer to agree to repair the bearings under warranty as noted in post 724 and now they have also agreed to do the oil cooler lines as well. When these problems were first diagnosed they also said I should have the ball joints replaced. Lowers were bad uppers were ok but it would be better to do it at the same time. They quoted me a price of $724.00 do do all 4 and they agreed to replace them with a part that has a grease fitting so they may be less likely to fail in the future. Does this price sound right or are they possibly trying to make up what they are giving me for "free" on the wheel bearings and oil cooler lines? This is a 2000 blazer with 66,000 miles on it in Western NY.

waynea · May 2003

I have some experience with the wheel bearings going bad. See my posts 702, 724, and 728. I can't say that the wheel bearing isn't your problem but when the bearing goes bad in my experience it is very loud and I have never experienced the brake pulse when I have had the problem. I don't have any information about replacing them myself. I was going to do that but the dealer finally agreed to fix it so I didn't have to do that. If you do do it yourself please post back. I'm sure lots of others on this board would like to know just how hard it is. I saw the part listed for $168.00 at www.chevy-autoparts.com if that helps.

curiousgeorge5 · May 2003

My step-son's 97 Blazer engine compartment was a-blaze in five minutes. He just entered the freeway when he noticed gray smoke, pulled off to the side to inspect, saw flames coming from the engine compartment, got his fiancee out in time to watch the tires melt, front windshield crack and the Blazer front end go up in flames.
He takes good care of the vehicle - just had the oil and transmission serviced.
He said he had the vehicle in for various repairs and service over the years he owned the vehicle.
He also said there was a hint of electrical problems that the service people could never correct.
Could the chronic oil line leaking problem reported on this thread be a factor?
Any other sad stories of Blazers blazing? His insurance company is looking into possible causes. We are hoping he can get a better settlement than simply an insurance declaration that the vehicle is a total loss with the usual book value declaration.
He's a practicing Veterinarian who takes good care of dogs and cats. Also, with marriage approaching, this loss is not part of his budget.

1choice · May 2003

It has been my experience with the GM products that when the brakes shutter at low speeds, that the rotors have been warped by going through water while the rotors were hot. Had to have the rotors turned on my dad's Cadillac, due to the shutter/wobble, even when the brakes were not being used.
I have not heard of wheel bearings causing a shutter via the ABS system.
When they replaced the right front bearing on my 2000 Blazer, there was no noise at all. Just a lot of shaking around corners and on the highway.

1choice · May 2003

If you look through several of these posts there was one guy who had his oil cooler lines replaced 5 times in 2 1/2 years. Twice, he happened to notice his oil pressure drop and stop the vehicle in time enough to save his engine. If your GM dealer up there will cover the items take yours in and have it done. Don't wait until the mileage is so high that you have to argue with them to fix it and end up paying for the repairs, when you possibily could have had them fixed at no charge.
My 2000 Blazer had both of them leaking, and mine only had a small amount of oil near the connection when I checked them. It is cheaper to pay for the oil cooler lines(if you have to) than to pay for a new engine. Same with the ball joint issue.
I do remember someone saying on this post that it appeared that the vehicles in the northern states were covered, while that person's was not due to being in the warmer area of the US. Since you are in Canada, I would think that you would classify as a Northern area.
Also, look into Alldata.com. They have many (not all) of the Technical Service Bulletins on your particular vehicle and year model, which can help if you go to the dealer.
Good Luck! Michelle!

sockpuppet1969 · May 2003

I just replaced the lower ball joints on my 98 blazer. Immediately after, the truck was still making the clunking noise I brought it in for. I took it back and they replaced them again (said the first set was bad). Well the car is still making the same clunking noise when I stop quickly or turn at slow speeds. Any other suggestions as to what this may be? Anyone have a similar problem? I will be bringing the truck back to the mechanic agian to have it looked at again later this week.

Also, I noticed the windshield wiper circuit board was recalled for the 1997 Blazers. I have been having similar problems in my 98. The windshield wipers have a mind of thier own much of the time. They will speed up on their own or wipe up to 20 times after a simple mist (should only be 3 or 4 wipes). Anyone know if the 98's are going to be included in this recall or where to go to find out?

broph · May 2003

I just purchased a 99 blazer w/ 47K on it. After reading these posts I'm glad that I bought the extended warranty. The tranny went out on my Explorer & I decided to get something that rode better, better gas mileage, alot less miles on it & hopefully less problematic but now I don't know. When I test drove it it made a god awful sqweeking noise, saleman had me bring it right to service where they thought it was a broken torsion bar mount. Turned out to be the ball joints. My wife & I took it out for a test drive & it did not shudder or vibrate (75mph) & appeared to be run very well, so we took the plunge. Now, only to look out for the sludging antifreeze & oil line leak.

Tom

Chevy Blazer GMC Jimmy Maintenance and Repair

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