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It started when reverse went out...completely. The rest of the gears are now sticking and slipping. Taking into the dealership I've been told that it needs to be rebuilt and the cost is going to be at least $1600. I have been researching online for the better part of the day and discovered that an incredible amount of Jimmy owners have had this same exact problem. Upon contacting GMC...they have assured me there is no recall on it, and I am on my own...of course. I have been to this website and about four others (including consumer affairs) and although there are many many posts regarding this problem...so action has been taken.
What is the next logical step to getting GM to own up to what is clearly a big problem with the Jimmys and Blazers?!?!
Thanks so much in advance!
Before I dig myself deeper into what I don't know about, I'll finish by saying that I let AAMCO replace the valve for $119 and haven't felt a hard shift since.
Hope this helps somebody.
can anyone help with this?
I recently traded in my 1997 Blazer which served me well, but it had a fair amount of warranty service. Although new car payments are obviously more expensive than maintaining what I already had, the peace of mind I get with a new vehicle is why I got rid of mine.
I gather you still owe on your Lumina & you may be getting rid of one problem & inheriting another. Tough decision. Good Luck.
I step on the gas to accelerate, and then step on the brake to make a full stop. The engine sounds is not normal, it sounds like the car's engine is about to die (for a good 5 seconds or so), but it never does (thang GOD). It happens for about 15 mins or so (as I drive along), and it (may) dissapear.
I just changed the lower ball joints, front & rear brakes. Anyone has some ideas or has experienced the same thing ? Please advise.
Jeremy
How can the oil cooler lines hurt an engine? Is it just because coolant leaks or is there any other problems that may arise?
Thanks again!
Jeremy
I have a 2002 Jimmy SLS, around 35000 km's, and had to stop suddenly to avoid an accident recently. I drove away from that, luckily very close to home, as I suddenly had almost no brakes at all. I had to push all the way to the floor to get even a little response, and that was not the most confidence insipring. Fluid was leaking from the left front, and I had it towed to the dealer. After some investigation, it was determined that a control arm had been rubbing against a brake hose, and the sudden application had caused it to burst.
Which prompts some questions:
-has anyone else ever heard of this (ie control arm rubbing against brake hose) - I searched this forum and found nothing
-why the heck did all four brakes fail? Only one hose burst (left front). When I asked at the service counter I was told, 2nd-hand, by a teenager that it was something to do with it bursting before/after (they couldn't remember) the distributor; the computer subsequently decided (!) to shut off ALL the brakes. Good thing I wasn't doing 100k's + on a highway when I figured out they weren't working...! I have a hard time believing they shut off by design.
Has anyone had better luck from GM in getting this problem fixed?
On the positive side....I love my new 4runner!!!
The next best thing to do is to replace the radiator cap with one that has a spring on the return valve.
Since the flush it seems to take longer for the temp to come up. New thermosat was installed. A gurgling sound is now very audible while driving. Not all the time but especially when excellerating.
I asked the dealer about possible water pump damage,head gasket/exhaust manifold problems,heater core being clogged and was told all is well, just a clogged rad.
Any suggestions ?
21498 miles, drivers side recliner lever fell off, front seal on rear differential leaking, repaired under warranty.
33631 miles, temperature display changes units when raining (changed exterior sensor), missing coolant (pressure check, no leaks), loud noise when starting (changed starter), Drivers side mirror vibrates (replaced) all under warranty.
35600 miles, passenger seat recliner lever fell off (replaced under warranty), rear differential still leaking, tailgate cover cracked (replaced under warranty), Temp display still changing units.
36100 miles, hard starting replaced battery under warranty.
37492 miles, transmission line came off transmission, line and fitting replaced, $205.89.
41236 miles, starter replaced again, $431.81.
48000 miles, battery cable broke off the battery, cable too tight, new battery again $64.16.
49647 miles, drivers seat recliner lever fell off again, steering really sloppy, changed lever and steering gear. $965.33.
70193 miles, passenger seat recliner lever fell off again, 4 wheel drive will not engage (encoder motor), Alternator replaced. $1120.53.
72455 miles, wipers work occasionally (replaced controller board), Turn signal switch keeps clicking (replaced), idles rough (flushed system and changed fuel filter no help), loud exhaust (catalytic converter changed under Factory Warranty), front end loose (Idler arm, upper and lower ball joints replaced, alignment) Also changed the alternator belt and belt tensioner do to noise. $1948.45.
75194 miles, radiator flush and fill since the heater was not working due to sludge build up from red antifreeze.
88736 miles, loud exhaust again (catalytic converter, dealer wants $600), power steering pump shaft seal leaking (replaced), noisy AC compressor (replaced), front seal on rear differential leaking again and loud clunk during acceleration (rear pinion seal, yoke, case, bearing, shaft, and gasket replaced). Idler arm replaced again. $1988.26.
93351 miles, loud noise from rear-end when driving, speed sensitive. Pinion Bearing and seal replaced.
Brakes including rotors and emergency brake
FWD (3 separate occasions)
Upper & lower ball Joints
Wheel bearing
Battery
At the moment the "service engine light" is on constantly something that the mechanic attributes to moisture and/or ice in the secondary air injection pump. Their comment is that they will attempt to dry it out and if that doesn't work will "replace it". What really peeves about this vehicle (and GM in general) is that they seem to take an obviously poorly designed & engineered part and replace it with the same thing. It took me a while to catch on but with the upper and lower ball joints for example, the orginals wear out beacuse they have no fittings and cannot be lubricated. Take it to the dealer for replacement and they will put the same original equipment units (with no fittings back in). Take it to a third party chain and they will replace them with a better quality component complete with fittings (for less money I might add). I had problems with the drive side door hinge at 35K and the dealer told me that the problem was that they used brass in the hinge which was too soft. Now at 78K the same thing is happening again because they apparently replaced them with the same defective brass components. I have a new noise in the front end that developed over the last few days and I believe it is the bearing on the other side.
Overall this has been a very high maintenance vehicle, and in all candor I would not suggest it to anyone. My neighbor has a the same model but a 2001 with 50k and he can predict his maintenance pattern by what I have done. So far he has encountered verbatim almost every problem that have I. It seems a tragedy that GM engineers a vehicle to be "worn out" at 75K. This will be my last GM vehicle and I have had GM exclusively since my first new vehicle in 1980. My wife has had 5 new Honda's in the same period and had two post warranty issues across all five of them. And get this, even though they were out of warranty, the dealer went to bat for us with Honda and got both post warrnty items covered.
Anyway; has anyone encountered a similar problem with the secondary air injection pump?
When I changed the oil, I noticed something pretty funky...an access door for the oil filter. I am used to the filters being directly attached to the block. Whey is the filter separate from the engine block?
Thanks
Jeremy
I just had my front, right bearing replaced a few days ago and now this. I hope whatever is wrong doesn't cost an arm and a leg. I have a 2000 4 door 4X4 Jimmy. This morning I turned the key and it started rough. It sounded like it was missing a beat for a while, but as it warmed up, it started to sound more like itself. When I looked at the dash, the engine light was on. The truck has always started fine. I went and gased up, came back and left it shut off all day. I just went out and started it up, the engine light is still on. Also, it seem to start fine. Any ideas? Unlike a noise of some kind, with this kind of problem, a shop can pretty much tell you anything is wrong. Please point me in the right way!!!!
Thanks in advance everbody!
Jason Morency
Thanks
Jeremy
Anyway, thanks again for the info and more will be greatly appreciated.
P.S. Any estimate on the power steering pump if it needs to be replaced.
Jeremy
The car drove like a piece of junk YUGO. What waste. I was thinking of buying a Suburban but noway now!!!!!!!!!!!! If they cannot get a model right after 10+ years of production, how can they get anything right!
pulled the egr any way and looked/worked fine. at the same time i checked the plug wires and the throttle butterfly (not sure of the actual term) didn't seem to find anything wrong, started running fine. never got a check engine light either, then today, five days later on my way to work after driving for 25 minutes it started idling rough again, like a miss.
would an idle air control valve cause this? what about a stuck pcv valve? kind of confused due to the lack of warning light? when i had the cpi problem i also replaced the plugs/wires/ cap/rotor, so those should be o.k. never had luck throwing things into cars, would prefer to be smart about it. if i could get it consistent i could have it put on a test machine, but anything anyone could recommend would be greatly appreciated.
Jeremy
What is the problem and can I fix it or how much will I pay the dealer (ballpark)?
However, whenever we've got it on Auto 4wd it soon flashes the "Service 4wd" light comes on. Then, after switching back to 2 wheel hi, and shutting the car off and restarting it, the light doesn't appear again. However, if we switch to 4wd Hi ourselves, then the light does not come on.
What does this light mean.
thanks