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Suzuki XL-7
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Comments
The Xl-7 did pretty well. The ride down was very comfortable, the racks were loaded up with my two surfboards and the beach chairs. The sand was fairly packed from an earlier high tide, so it wasn't real soft and deep like it usually is. This is my first automatic 4x4 so that took a little getting used to, but it did fine.
I was most concerned about the ground clearance, but the suspension stayed fairly firm and didn't allow the bottom to hit the sand too much. The tires floated Ok, but traction was minimal. Some better off road tires would make a big difference.
Tried 4lo just for the heck of it, but as I thought it would, it just shifted on up to third and fourth gear quickly and it was not neccesary to have it in 4lo. Oddly, reverse worked really well, went where ever I steered it to.
Overall, quite a competent beach buggy. It does have some limits, but normal beach driving was fine.
Now it's an official off roader! Now for some mountains trails....
I look forward to participating more with this group, now that I can speak first hand about the XL-7.
Good Luck!
5greyhounds-
Did it take some time to get up to 22mpg, or has it been consistent from day one? One of the "tricks" I attributed to getting such good mileage in my Sidekick was airing up the tires above recommended. I'm running 36psi all around the XL-7 and have found that in addition to the lower rolling resistance, it seems to handle better too. The ride hasn't seemed to suffer either.
-mike
You are doing what many of us are doing with the PSI. I run 35 PSI all around and you are correct about it not riding any worse and steering better It appears the tires on these wear really poorly on the edges due to the low PSI recommended by the factory.
One more note: you sound like a person who does some work on their truck. The oil filter is a real bear to get to and it is really messy to change. I run synthetic in all my vehicles and with the XL-7 it is even more important due to the hassle of oil changes. I do a new filter and oil every 5k.
1) Lexus LS400 rearended my buddy's dad in his '92 Trooper (woman was on the phone, though the light was green) totalled the lexus, and hit the trooper. The rear window didn't break, although the door got pushed in. Impact was aproximately 25-30mph. (the front seats actually broke 1 of their bolts on impact)
2) I was on the trail and a guy got out of his trooper w/o setting the brake, and left it in drive. It rolled down a hill right into the 2000 trooper in front of him, hit was about 5-10mph, no broken glass, both rear doors needed replacement though.
The test they use in those videos is slamming, un-braked, into a steel pole. The only place that would happen is @ a mall parkinglot, if you aren't watching what you are doing when backing up. I personally like real world tests.
On a side note, in a real world accident, your rear will lift and the vehicle striking you will dip, causing their car to hit your rear bumper rather than the tire.
-mike
Yeah, but what if you get hit by a minivan or another SUV? What you are assuming is that you yourself will be slamming on the brakes very hard to avoid hitting the car in front. But what if you are not and are just sitting there? There is no height advantage there and the tire will get pushed in. A buddy of mine with a RAV4 was rear ended by a Honda CRV in exactly that situation. Guess what? The spare tire was hit and the rear window broke, as did the trailer hitch/bumper underneath which also damaged the muffler. You are also assuming that the vehicle hitting you from behind has significant nose dive. Have you seen a BMW 3-series under heavy braking from 70-0 mph? There is virtually no nose dive, practically only one or two inches dipping of the nose. There are many other cars like that out there.
I think it is all a matter of weighing the pros and cons. Both underbody and exterior spare tire designs have their advantages and disadvantages.
To any anyone: Are bumper guards available for Suzuki XL-7's? If so would they be helpful or just a waste of money?
Thanks for your help
-mike
Taking mine back in for an alignment and to repoint the washer nozzles. If this is the worst that I find, I'm even more pleased than when I bought my Sidekick!
Well, my husband was soon on his way and replaced
the tire with the spare. Upon inspection of the tire, (he thought I pick up something in the road the night before to cause the flat) he discovered that there was what he describes as a "crack" in the wall of the tire. I did not pick up something in the road. The tire did not have a single scratch near the crack" to indicate that I bumped something in the road. I called the dealer to see about replacing the tire. The dealer could not help me. They referred me to a facility that could help. The manager at this "tire chain" said that the warranty would not be honored due to the fact that they are not sure why the tire "cracked". The cost of the new tire will exceed $135.00 and is on special order because they do not have it in stock. I will be without a spare tire for at least a week. I love the car, yet I am disappointed. I heard that the tire pressure must be monitored on a frequent basis, but with less that 3,000 miles on the vehicle? Any advise??? Help please.
-mike
A little more expensive is a tire pressure warning system that can be put inside each wheel that sends a warning to a small box that you mount on your dash or someplace that you can see easily that says the pressure is low.
-mike
Ideas?
Also noticed that there were some skid plate accessories? Anyone purchased one of these? What was the cost and what kind of quality were they.
You might want to try another Bridgestone dealer, there are usually a few around if you're in an urban area.
Unless they can prove a road hazard (nail, screw) or that you whacked it hard enough (which would leave some kind of mark) they should replace it for free.
-mike
James
Meanwhile, my salesman said that the crossbars on the roof rack aren't necessary. He said you can store stuff right on the roof. Does that sound right?
-mike
-mike
They are easy to remove with no tools and they have locks on them. I got them to throw them in for free due to some scratches on the truck, but I think they are around $150 (?).
Yes, you can use the rails (without crossbars)to hold stuff, but you'll probably scratch the paint. There are raised roof "ridges" that run parallel to the rails to keep any cargo slightly off the roof, but they are just painted bumps. I would think one of those car top bags with a rubber bottom on them could sit up there with out damage, but it would drive me nuts to have anything touching the paint.
By the way, the Mont Blanc crossbars are a "universal" type rack that fits just about any vehicle with roof rails, so I'm sure there is a Yakima or Thule system that would also work. They just won't have the cool Suzuki logo on them.
The cross rail racks are rated for 185 pounds, but the rails are only rated for 100 pounds, so you wouldn't want to exceed that.
3000 trouble free miles and counting!
I've got the Hidden Hitch on my XL-7 as well, installed by the dealer. Can't tell you the retail, as I negotiated that into the deal for "free". Anyhow, the model number for the 2" is #99005 (you can verify this, and get the model number for the 1 1/4" from www.hiddenhitch.com). A friend of mine also bought an XL-7 a week after I bought mine (didn't know I had that kind of influence over anyone). He's getting a Dalan (I think) from www.hitch-web.com. I think it was about $140. One thing he came across was that the wiring harness seemed to be cheaper from the dealer than from hitch-web. I think I recall him saying he paid $30 for it from the dealer.
5greyhounds -
I see what you mean about the filter being less than convenient for changes (funny, seemed more accessible before I owned it). How do you change yours? Access seems best from above, although it's nearly impossible to see the mounting face. Any recommendations you can offer to make things easier would be greatly appreciated. For what it's worth, I just can't make the leap of faith to the 5K changes (much less the recommended 7500), so I'll be sticking with dino for now (financial considerations, of course -- I'll need a second mortgage if I switch to synthetic at the rate I need to change the oil).
I just filled up today (it's 4th), and got the my best MPG yet -- 22.9 with 1000 miles on it. Had to readjust the TP's after the alignment. Dealer must have thought they were doing me a favor and lowered them all to 29 PSI.
As to cost. If you do three changes of synthetic at about $25 a change (5 quarts at $4 each and $5 for a good filter) for 15k that is $75 bucks. If you do 5 changes at about $12.50 a change (5 quarts at $1.50 plus $5 for a good filter) it is about $62 bucks. Not really that much difference in cost and you save the mess of the two extra changes. Of course this is if you do it at exactly every 3k. I feel really comfortable if I have to stretch it a little with the synthetic, not with the conventional.
I fill up last week and got 22.3 with 7.5k. I think that will be as good as it gets since it has decent miles on her. (BTW: all my cars are female, even the trucks)
With regard to MPG, I am also doing around 20-22 on regular city driving. Currently have approx. 12,500 miles on her.
Also wondered if anyone had updates on the rear seat floor cover for when the seats go flat. Saw this for the first time in the dealer on the weekend. While a permanent flap fitted to the back of the rear seats, even the dealer rep. wondered if they could be made available as an after-market accessory for those of us who already own a vehicle. If the interior is damaged, one assumes there are replacement flaps to repair it? Any news or updates on availability? Thanks.
-mike
I wouldn't dispute the merits of the synthetic ASFA chemistry is concerned, just the cost. Your point about the actual difference in cost is well taken. Never actually sat down and ran the numbers that way (by assuming the extended interval with synthetic). Since I've never used synthetic, I have one question (a concern, actually). Does all this talk I've seen about synthetic not being too great for the seals have any merit?
-mike
If synthetic was so bad my van would not have gone 135 or the Probe 112 and counting. I never have had an oil related problem with synthetic. Another point is the 2.7 is a high rever. My van, 99 Ford SE with the 3.8, at 65, is only doing about 2000 RPM. The XL-7 is up around 3000. The synthetic will last much longer at the higher RPMs.
1. Does the 3rd row fold flat "totally" (aka Honda'a magic seat)?
2. Is the third row now removable?
Any info will be appreciated. Thx!
The seats are not meant to be removable, but probably could be permanently removed if you really wanted.
I'm curious to see an '02 base model that won't have the third row to see how they treated the back area.
1. Does the 3rd row fold flat "totally" (aka Honda'a magic seat)?
2. Is the third row now removable?
Any info will be appreciated. Thx!
Cleaning up is a task i'm still finding mud in all of the crevaces after a week.
I would have to say "FUN FACTOR 10", give it a try. Remember to tread lightly ;-)
Cheers
Mike
-mike