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Suzuki XL-7

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Comments

  • tistevetisteve Member Posts: 142
    Finally the stars aligned (weather, time, surf) and we took the Xl-7 down to Hatteras for a day trip on Saturday.
    The Xl-7 did pretty well. The ride down was very comfortable, the racks were loaded up with my two surfboards and the beach chairs. The sand was fairly packed from an earlier high tide, so it wasn't real soft and deep like it usually is. This is my first automatic 4x4 so that took a little getting used to, but it did fine.
    I was most concerned about the ground clearance, but the suspension stayed fairly firm and didn't allow the bottom to hit the sand too much. The tires floated Ok, but traction was minimal. Some better off road tires would make a big difference.
    Tried 4lo just for the heck of it, but as I thought it would, it just shifted on up to third and fourth gear quickly and it was not neccesary to have it in 4lo. Oddly, reverse worked really well, went where ever I steered it to.
    Overall, quite a competent beach buggy. It does have some limits, but normal beach driving was fine.
    Now it's an official off roader! Now for some mountains trails....
  • 5greyhounds5greyhounds Member Posts: 338
    Well, it went much better this time than the first time. I had a much better idea of what to expect and how to do it in a way that worked for me. I had ordered a bulk piece (12 X 84) that I used for the hood and fenders of my XL-7 and while it took some work I get it right. Now I can leave the bra on and not have to worry about water and dirt under it since the finish will be protected.
  • 5greyhounds5greyhounds Member Posts: 338
    Happy to hear it passed the test. You are correct about the tires but then most of us would not use it on the beach anyway. Happy to hear you enjoyed it and it did good!!
  • imadad1stimadad1st Member Posts: 18
    Just took delivery of my '01 Touring 5-speed on Friday night. This is one great truck. Some may recall that I had a very good experience with my '95 Sidekick, so I'm looking forward to a long and trouble-free ownership with this one too. I just hope the mileage isn't too much of a disappointment (I was getting 30 mpg in my Sidekick).

    I look forward to participating more with this group, now that I can speak first hand about the XL-7.
  • 5greyhounds5greyhounds Member Posts: 338
    Now that is a rare one. I drive mine to work in traffic in the DC area so I could not use a 5 speed and if I had wanted one it would have to had been a special order. I do not think there are any 5-speeds in the mid Atlantic area. Did they have it sitting on the lot or was it a special order? Good luck on the MPG. I get 22 on mine and that is good.
  • tistevetisteve Member Posts: 142
    Welcome to the club of fellow XL-7 owners and future owners. We all think it is an under appreciated buggy that is a great value for the price.
    Good Luck!
  • imadad1stimadad1st Member Posts: 18
    I happened to get lucky. We live in the Milwaukee area, and the dealer where we bought our Sidekick just happened to have the only 5-speed in the area (I called around). It was silver too (my first choice -- a disappointment to my 4 year old, he wanted green -- a true Packer fan!). I was really happy with the deal we struck too (guess they wanted to cement a relationship with us after the first purchase). Anyhow, we live in a rural area outside of Milwaukee, so a 5-speed is no liability (we -- my wife and I -- both prefer manuals). 90% of our driving is highway, or highway-like driving.

    5greyhounds-
    Did it take some time to get up to 22mpg, or has it been consistent from day one? One of the "tricks" I attributed to getting such good mileage in my Sidekick was airing up the tires above recommended. I'm running 36psi all around the XL-7 and have found that in addition to the lower rolling resistance, it seems to handle better too. The ride hasn't seemed to suffer either.
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    The other advantage of higher TPs is you don't get the Ford Exploder effect. On my Trooper manf spec is 30/35 F/R I usually go with 35/40 on mine and find it yields better milage, handling and safety.

    -mike
  • 5greyhounds5greyhounds Member Posts: 338
    MPG-mine belonged to the owners wife--who was also the sales person I bought it from--and had 5k on it when I got it so I really can not say. However, as you most likely know, it usually takes a few thousand miles for the true MPG to show up.
    You are doing what many of us are doing with the PSI. I run 35 PSI all around and you are correct about it not riding any worse and steering better It appears the tires on these wear really poorly on the edges due to the low PSI recommended by the factory.

    One more note: you sound like a person who does some work on their truck. The oil filter is a real bear to get to and it is really messy to change. I run synthetic in all my vehicles and with the XL-7 it is even more important due to the hassle of oil changes. I do a new filter and oil every 5k.
  • carquester1carquester1 Member Posts: 5
    So far I have been impressed with what I have seen and read about the Suzuki XL-7. However, I am concerned about safety. True it did well in the 40 mph crash test, but did horrendous with 5 mph bumper test (shattered rear windshield). Has anyone seen the video clip of this event. It didnt look very impressive. Do you think it was a fluke or is this a real concern? Did the 2002 model address this potential problem in any any way? Would a trailer hitch help prevent some damage?
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    Don't forget those tests are highly theoretical. We Trooper owners had the same problem with ours. But in real world tests... The rear is quite safe. 2 examples I bring up are:

    1) Lexus LS400 rearended my buddy's dad in his '92 Trooper (woman was on the phone, though the light was green) totalled the lexus, and hit the trooper. The rear window didn't break, although the door got pushed in. Impact was aproximately 25-30mph. (the front seats actually broke 1 of their bolts on impact)

    2) I was on the trail and a guy got out of his trooper w/o setting the brake, and left it in drive. It rolled down a hill right into the 2000 trooper in front of him, hit was about 5-10mph, no broken glass, both rear doors needed replacement though.

    The test they use in those videos is slamming, un-braked, into a steel pole. The only place that would happen is @ a mall parkinglot, if you aren't watching what you are doing when backing up. I personally like real world tests.

    On a side note, in a real world accident, your rear will lift and the vehicle striking you will dip, causing their car to hit your rear bumper rather than the tire.

    -mike
  • 5greyhounds5greyhounds Member Posts: 338
    The reason for the poor showing is the pole they used in the test is centered on the rear of the truck and and it hits the tire carrier and that damages the entire rear of the truck. This is inherent in any SUV that has the tire on the back: Honda, Rav4, CRV, etc. It is not a structure problem. Now then, some of the above have the tire carrier off set so the pole does not hit the carrier. As for 2002, I doubt it. The 2001 and 2002 are basically the same.
  • tbrown_4tbrown_4 Member Posts: 27
    "On a side note, in a real world accident, your rear will lift and the vehicle striking you will dip, causing their car to hit your rear bumper rather than the tire"

    Yeah, but what if you get hit by a minivan or another SUV? What you are assuming is that you yourself will be slamming on the brakes very hard to avoid hitting the car in front. But what if you are not and are just sitting there? There is no height advantage there and the tire will get pushed in. A buddy of mine with a RAV4 was rear ended by a Honda CRV in exactly that situation. Guess what? The spare tire was hit and the rear window broke, as did the trailer hitch/bumper underneath which also damaged the muffler. You are also assuming that the vehicle hitting you from behind has significant nose dive. Have you seen a BMW 3-series under heavy braking from 70-0 mph? There is virtually no nose dive, practically only one or two inches dipping of the nose. There are many other cars like that out there.

    I think it is all a matter of weighing the pros and cons. Both underbody and exterior spare tire designs have their advantages and disadvantages.
  • carquester1carquester1 Member Posts: 5
    To the previous poster: What are the advantages and disadvantades of an underbody spare tire? What are the advantages of an exterior spare tire?

    To any anyone: Are bumper guards available for Suzuki XL-7's? If so would they be helpful or just a waste of money?

    Thanks for your help
  • carquester1carquester1 Member Posts: 5
    For all you knowledgeable XL-7 folks, please comment on this discussion. There is a new discussion on the main SUV board. Thanks
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    Hey matt at http://independent4x.com sell rear protectors that go into a std. hitch mount. Check out pics of mine at http://isuzu-suvs.com Very sturdy 1/4" steel tubing.


    -mike

  • 5greyhounds5greyhounds Member Posts: 338
    On the spare tire. There are two sides to this. The one on the back makes it much easier to change the tire in the event of a flat. The one under the truck means you have to use a wrench to lower the tire by means of some special device the tire is attached to. You then have to get on the ground and pull the tire out from under the truck. You get really messy. The one on the rear is only a liability if you back into a pole or something like that. I am looking for one of the after marker sonar devices that I can put on it so I do not have to worry about it. However, I am very conscience about it. Myself, I will take the tire on the back.
  • 5greyhounds5greyhounds Member Posts: 338
    So, how is everyone's MPG doing these days? I am still stuck at about 22 where it is most likely to stay since I have a little over 7K on her. Still solid as a rock.
  • imadad1stimadad1st Member Posts: 18
    Just checked mine over the weekend. Got 22.6 with 600 miles on it. Still hoping for better in the coming miles.

    Taking mine back in for an alignment and to repoint the washer nozzles. If this is the worst that I find, I'm even more pleased than when I bought my Sidekick!
  • 5greyhounds5greyhounds Member Posts: 338
    Just filled her up and got 21.7 for 296 miles, all in the city and going to work.
  • momx2momx2 Member Posts: 14
    I acquired a 2001 Suzuki in late August. I love the vehicle, but did have a problem. Early one morning(after loading the kids in the car) I noticed that the back passenger tire was completely flat.
    Well, my husband was soon on his way and replaced
    the tire with the spare. Upon inspection of the tire, (he thought I pick up something in the road the night before to cause the flat) he discovered that there was what he describes as a "crack" in the wall of the tire. I did not pick up something in the road. The tire did not have a single scratch near the crack" to indicate that I bumped something in the road. I called the dealer to see about replacing the tire. The dealer could not help me. They referred me to a facility that could help. The manager at this "tire chain" said that the warranty would not be honored due to the fact that they are not sure why the tire "cracked". The cost of the new tire will exceed $135.00 and is on special order because they do not have it in stock. I will be without a spare tire for at least a week. I love the car, yet I am disappointed. I heard that the tire pressure must be monitored on a frequent basis, but with less that 3,000 miles on the vehicle? Any advise??? Help please.
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    Not quite sure what you want us to help with. You should inspect your tires visually at every other fuel up. Tire pressures should be checked on a monthly basis. And yes occassionally there are bad tires that come out. $135 for a suzuki size tire seems a bit stiff. I pay only $100 for my trooper ones and these are 245-70-16s.

    -mike
  • 5greyhounds5greyhounds Member Posts: 338
    Most tires are covered by the tire manufacture, not the car company. You should get it replaced as a defective tire by the manufacturer since there were no obvious hits or dings on the tire. It sounds like a manufacture defect and should be replaced for nothing. If you can not get any satisfaction from the tire people you are dealing with go to you owners package and in it should be the information on the tire and a hot line to call. It usually is a toll free number. It sounds like this tire dealer is just trying to make a buck.
  • 5greyhounds5greyhounds Member Posts: 338
    There is a way to check your pressure without using a pressure gauge. You can go to a large auto parts store and pick up a set of four devices that go on the tire stem where you put air into the tire. Once the tire is at the proper pressure you put this small device on and if the pressure goes two or three pounds below what it was when you put it on a little red warning pin will pop up to let you know the pressure is down.
    A little more expensive is a tire pressure warning system that can be put inside each wheel that sends a warning to a small box that you mount on your dash or someplace that you can see easily that says the pressure is low.
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    While Greyhounds' idea is a good one, it still will never replace a physical visual check of your TP and tire condition. By actually getting out ever other fuel-up, and physically checking the tires visually, you'll see things such as abnormal wear, cracking, or tears in the sidewall, all of which can lead to a dangerous blowout. Let's just learn to be a little responsible, or is that too much to ask for Americans anymore? :)

    -mike
  • 5greyhounds5greyhounds Member Posts: 338
    I agree about nothing replacing physical checks but these can help as an early warning between checks. A quick look in the morning or just prior to going some place.
  • jamthompjamthomp Member Posts: 16
    I'm looking to get a trailer hitch on my XL-7. Was hoping someone could recommend a place with the best price. From my searching it looks like the hitch that fits the XL-7 is the Draw-tite 41537? Are there any other hitches that work?
    Ideas?
    Also noticed that there were some skid plate accessories? Anyone purchased one of these? What was the cost and what kind of quality were they.
  • tistevetisteve Member Posts: 142
    I agree with the other guys, that tire should be replaced at no charge whatsoever. At only 3,000 miles is certainly still under warranty. Those Bridgestone/Firestone guys are probably burned out by replacing so many Firestone tires that they are trying to not give any away if they can.
    You might want to try another Bridgestone dealer, there are usually a few around if you're in an urban area.
    Unless they can prove a road hazard (nail, screw) or that you whacked it hard enough (which would leave some kind of mark) they should replace it for free.
  • clay11clay11 Member Posts: 17
    Living in Canada, pricing will not be of much relevance to you. But as an FYI...had a Hidden Hitch trailer hitch installed for $350CDN which included a Class III hitch, 7-pin plug, mount with 2" ball, wiring and installation. Gave it a solid workout on a recent roadtrip and all went well. I understand Suzuki can install a hitch except that it is only a 1 & 1/4" mount and that its hangs down from the rear of the vehicle, somewhat like a step. The dealer service manager did not particularly recommend this and even the sales guy has a Hidden Hitch on his XL-7. The HH model (do not have the specific number handy but can get it off the hitch if you really need it) sits tightly up and behind the bumper and I believe is the same model recommended for the Grand Vitara. Hope this helps.
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    I have a HH on my trooper. Excellent hitch, excellent fit, and it is truely hidden, except for the square box for the receiver.

    -mike
  • jamthompjamthomp Member Posts: 16
    If you have the model number for the hidden hitch I would like to have it. Any thoughts on the Draw-tite model?

    James
  • rhechtrhecht Member Posts: 2
    My son had a great laugh (at me) while I listened to the CD that came with my Grand Vitara but I learned that you can store the third row headrests under the second row of seats. There is elastic and velcro under the seat.
    Meanwhile, my salesman said that the crossbars on the roof rack aren't necessary. He said you can store stuff right on the roof. Does that sound right?
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    If you want to scratch the paint, you can. the rails I'm assuming are just rubber stips that sit on the roof's surface, thereby not adding any strength. I'd personally get the rails.

    -mike
  • 5greyhounds5greyhounds Member Posts: 338
    If memory serves the cross rails will hold more than the roof. I would have to check the owners guide but 200LBS comes to mind. If you have a sunroof you really have to be careful. If the roof gets just a little bow in it the seal around the sunroof could go bad. Spend the money, get the cross rails.
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    Oh you mean the ones that go across. Those are definitely worth it. They won't hold more than the rack itself is rated at (usually around 100->150lbs on US spec vehicles) Of course your rack will likely hold 2-3x the amount listed. Thank the lawyers for that.

    -mike
  • tistevetisteve Member Posts: 142
    I have the cross bars on ours and they are nice, certainly Thule/Yakima quality. When I first put them on, they made some noticeable wind noise. I put my thick wrap around kayak pads on them and that quieted them down to acceptable levels.
    They are easy to remove with no tools and they have locks on them. I got them to throw them in for free due to some scratches on the truck, but I think they are around $150 (?).
    Yes, you can use the rails (without crossbars)to hold stuff, but you'll probably scratch the paint. There are raised roof "ridges" that run parallel to the rails to keep any cargo slightly off the roof, but they are just painted bumps. I would think one of those car top bags with a rubber bottom on them could sit up there with out damage, but it would drive me nuts to have anything touching the paint.
    By the way, the Mont Blanc crossbars are a "universal" type rack that fits just about any vehicle with roof rails, so I'm sure there is a Yakima or Thule system that would also work. They just won't have the cool Suzuki logo on them.
    The cross rail racks are rated for 185 pounds, but the rails are only rated for 100 pounds, so you wouldn't want to exceed that.
    3000 trouble free miles and counting!
  • imadad1stimadad1st Member Posts: 18
    Jamthomp -
    I've got the Hidden Hitch on my XL-7 as well, installed by the dealer. Can't tell you the retail, as I negotiated that into the deal for "free". Anyhow, the model number for the 2" is #99005 (you can verify this, and get the model number for the 1 1/4" from www.hiddenhitch.com). A friend of mine also bought an XL-7 a week after I bought mine (didn't know I had that kind of influence over anyone). He's getting a Dalan (I think) from www.hitch-web.com. I think it was about $140. One thing he came across was that the wiring harness seemed to be cheaper from the dealer than from hitch-web. I think I recall him saying he paid $30 for it from the dealer.

    5greyhounds -
    I see what you mean about the filter being less than convenient for changes (funny, seemed more accessible before I owned it). How do you change yours? Access seems best from above, although it's nearly impossible to see the mounting face. Any recommendations you can offer to make things easier would be greatly appreciated. For what it's worth, I just can't make the leap of faith to the 5K changes (much less the recommended 7500), so I'll be sticking with dino for now (financial considerations, of course -- I'll need a second mortgage if I switch to synthetic at the rate I need to change the oil).

    I just filled up today (it's 4th), and got the my best MPG yet -- 22.9 with 1000 miles on it. Had to readjust the TP's after the alignment. Dealer must have thought they were doing me a favor and lowered them all to 29 PSI.
  • 5greyhounds5greyhounds Member Posts: 338
    I actually go in from under the truck. It is a little “by the feel” method but I have a problem with getting past all the other things in the engine bay. As to using synthetic: My 95 Windstar went 138K on the 5k oil and filter change with not a problem, as is my wife’s Probe GT (113k). I would still have the Windstar if a man did not run a light and total it. It used less than a quart every 5k. The same with my wife’s probe. I know a man who works for the Mobil oil development team and we were talking about oil changes and he told me you could change just the filter and add a quart every 5k and you would still be doing better than with a conventional oil. That was a stretch but that is what he said.
    As to cost. If you do three changes of synthetic at about $25 a change (5 quarts at $4 each and $5 for a good filter) for 15k that is $75 bucks. If you do 5 changes at about $12.50 a change (5 quarts at $1.50 plus $5 for a good filter) it is about $62 bucks. Not really that much difference in cost and you save the mess of the two extra changes. Of course this is if you do it at exactly every 3k. I feel really comfortable if I have to stretch it a little with the synthetic, not with the conventional.
    I fill up last week and got 22.3 with 7.5k. I think that will be as good as it gets since it has decent miles on her. (BTW: all my cars are female, even the trucks)
  • clay11clay11 Member Posts: 17
    Firstly to Jamthomp's question...the model of the Hidden Hitch on my XL-7 is 87005. Keep in mind this is a Canadian reference so it may be different to US retailers. It is a Class III and common with the Grand Vitara.

    With regard to MPG, I am also doing around 20-22 on regular city driving. Currently have approx. 12,500 miles on her.

    Also wondered if anyone had updates on the rear seat floor cover for when the seats go flat. Saw this for the first time in the dealer on the weekend. While a permanent flap fitted to the back of the rear seats, even the dealer rep. wondered if they could be made available as an after-market accessory for those of us who already own a vehicle. If the interior is damaged, one assumes there are replacement flaps to repair it? Any news or updates on availability? Thanks.
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    is actually made in Canada IIRC.

    -mike
  • 5greyhounds5greyhounds Member Posts: 338
    When I first heard about the flat floor on the 2002s I asked if the flap could be retro fitted to the 2001 and was told no. I will have to see for myself though.
  • imadad1stimadad1st Member Posts: 18
    Doesn't the 2.7L take 6 quarts (5.8) of oil per change? I thought I saw that in the book.

    I wouldn't dispute the merits of the synthetic ASFA chemistry is concerned, just the cost. Your point about the actual difference in cost is well taken. Never actually sat down and ran the numbers that way (by assuming the extended interval with synthetic). Since I've never used synthetic, I have one question (a concern, actually). Does all this talk I've seen about synthetic not being too great for the seals have any merit?
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    only on cars with greater than 50K miles in general, and even then it's a 50/50 chance they'll have problems.

    -mike
  • 5greyhounds5greyhounds Member Posts: 338
    You are correct, it is about 6 quarts but the numbers still are basically valid.
    If synthetic was so bad my van would not have gone 135 or the Probe 112 and counting. I never have had an oil related problem with synthetic. Another point is the 2.7 is a high rever. My van, 99 Ford SE with the 3.8, at 65, is only doing about 2000 RPM. The XL-7 is up around 3000. The synthetic will last much longer at the higher RPMs.
  • peterclaverpeterclaver Member Posts: 13
    Couple of questions for this group on the 2002's -
    1. Does the 3rd row fold flat "totally" (aka Honda'a magic seat)?
    2. Is the third row now removable?
    Any info will be appreciated. Thx!
  • tistevetisteve Member Posts: 142
    I think no and no. I haven't actually seen a '02, but from what I have read on here, it's basically the same set up as the '01, they just added some kind of plastic flap to the back of the third row so that the flap can be extended to cover the gap in between the third and second row when the seats are folded flat.
    The seats are not meant to be removable, but probably could be permanently removed if you really wanted.
    I'm curious to see an '02 base model that won't have the third row to see how they treated the back area.
  • peterclaverpeterclaver Member Posts: 13
    Couple of questions for this group on the 2002's -
    1. Does the 3rd row fold flat "totally" (aka Honda'a magic seat)?
    2. Is the third row now removable?
    Any info will be appreciated. Thx!
  • doyou4x4doyou4x4 Member Posts: 3
    Offroad, any one try it yet?? I did venture off the black ribbon, and found the traction good even with the bridgestone tires,(mud and bog).The 4x4 low is very powerful, great engine breaking downhill.
    Cleaning up is a task i'm still finding mud in all of the crevaces after a week.
    I would have to say "FUN FACTOR 10", give it a try. Remember to tread lightly ;-)

    Cheers
    Mike
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    My trooper also gets caked everywhere with mud too. I found the easiest way to clean it is to run a sprinkler under it in about 10 different spots for about 30 minutes in each spot. I just turn it on, and go out ever 1/2hr and move it around. That usually gets lots of places you can't reach with a hose.

    -mike
  • clay11clay11 Member Posts: 17
    To Peterclaver's question...the third row on the 2002 is not removable. Seats are fixed the same as the 2001 seven seater. Exception is the new five seat model (that I have not seen) that I assume will lay like any flat rear with the carpet from the cargo area onto the seat back as one piece. The flat floor on the seven seater is actually a heavy carpet/plastic flap that velcros to the back of the rear seat and can be folded out to clip onto the back of the middle seat when folded flat (hope that makes sense). Should work fine for anyone wanting a totally flat rear area when the seats are down.
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