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Chevy Tahoe



  • mreid72mreid72 Posts: 3
    I need some help from owners of SUVs, please. Owners only!

    Here's my situation: My wife and I are having our first children, twins, in about 2 weeks. We currently own 2 cars: a '93 Buick LeSabre and a '96 Toyota Camry.

    I have vowed to never own a minivan, and so the next obvious choice is an SUV. The cars will be too small, especially going on trips. I have looked at the Sequoia and the Yukon, and briefly at the Suburban. In fact, this weekend, I'll be spending a lot of time at the dealerships driving, inspecting, talking, etc.

    We will use it mainly for hauling the family around, along with friends from time to time, and for vacations which we take 2-3 times a year. We live in Florida, and visit family in Alabama, spend time in the mountains in Tennessee, do lots of camping, hiking, canoeing, and are planning on going out west within the next 1-2 years. Our travel time will probably increase over the next 2-3 years, and I plan on keeping whatever I choose for at least 3-5 years. We probably won't tow anything since we have nothing to tow. However, that may change in the next 2 years, but that is not my primary concern.

    I would like to hear from owners of ALL full size SUVs, but what I want to hear is strictly their personal experiences with their own SUV; no bashing of the competition!!

    How have you used your SUV?
    How many people do you usually carry around?

    How much luggage space do you have?

    How much room is there in the 3rd row of seats?

    How much trouble is it to get into the 3rd row of seats?

    How does the vehicle perform in bad weather conditions? (rain, snow, ice, etc.)

    What do you NOT like about your SUV?

    I would also like to know approx. how much you paid for yours and what model it is along with the options you purchased. That way, I can better compare apples to apples.

    Any comments would be much appreciated. As I stated earlier, I will be doing some investigating this weekend, and will check back on Monday to see what responses I get.

    Also, I'd like to know of some good websites for good vehicle reviews besides this one and Consumer Reports.

  • poc322poc322 Posts: 22
    I just got off the phone with a place here in austin called B&H. They are the people who installed my brush guard and tinted my two front windows. Right now they are installing the lights in a Z71 roof rack. He said that the the wires are all in place and that they run up to the dash, and that they are going to install a switch on or under the dash depending on the customers request. They also suggested using pk lights, which he said were realy bright and that they would not melt the housing unit on the roof rack, but could met the housing unit of the lamps if left on for a long period of time. The price the quoted me to do the work was 250. which is basicly the cost of the lights. I don't but that seems a little pricey for a set of small lights.
    I'm going over to the place this weekend and see what it looks like on the Z71 they are working on and see if i can talk him down on the price a little.
  • The Z71 I just purchased has the tow package with the 4.10 rear. What performance differences can I expect and will gas mileage be much worse. I did not buy this truck for towing. Is the difference between this and the stock rear significant?
    Please let me know. Thank you
  • Those are alot of questions, the answers to which are in these forums. It would take alot of time for one to answer all of yours this weekend. Ask one or two of which you have a burning desire to know the answer. You can get help here or on the forum..
  • fortopfortop Posts: 239
    don't expect much from the 3rd seat in the basic Yukon/Tahoe. It is only suitable for Very small people (like midgets) or small children. The seat rests completely on the floor with no foot well, so your knees are at or above your chin when you sit in the third seat. Check out the Suburban
    or Yukon XL for a slightly roomier seat. As for getting in and out of the third seat - the best bet is for you to actually try to get in and out of it. I only got the third seat because the dealers said they have a hard time selling used Tahoes/Subs/Yukons without the third seat.
    After 2 days and 50 miles of ownership: I don't like the lack of rack and pinion steering (it has the old recirculating ball steering) and it is a bit unresponsive when turning the steering wheel at low speeds. This is a big, lumbering SUV and you feel its "topheaviness" in the turns. I was willing to accept that for a better ride, and it does ride well. However, when you hit a medium to big bump or expansion joint, even the autoride lets you know that you are driving a truck. On the plus side, the luxury features are everywhere. The full function seats are nice, but the armrest on the inboard sides are too low for a 6 footer. As big as this truck is, a lot of the features seem to be designed for very small people.
    As others have posted here, the radio/stereo system seems to have absolutely no bass response. I normally listen only to news stations, but even the announcer's voice on news stations sounds distorted with no bass.
    My suggestion - drive the Tahoe LS, drive the upscale Tahoe LT or Yukon SLT and see if the fancier models are worth another $10K. One reason good reason to get the upscale models is to get climate control - but I don't know if you can get it on the lower priced versions in 2002. Climate control is nice because you don't have to keep fiddling with the controls to adjust the temperatures - an especially nice feature in hot climates. I haven't yet figured out all of the climate control features - but I would say it is a must have in any new vehicle.
    I paid $33,307 GMO price for the Yukon SLT 2WD with everything but the sunroof. I had $1741 GM credit card points, and a $1000 gas tank coupon, then paid $2323.05 AZ sales tax, + $578.88 license plates, then added 72 month, 72,000 mile, $200 deductible extended warranty for $965 - so out the door I was at $33,433. List was $39,960, but anybody should be able to get invoice price.
    With a small family (and if you are not physically large), I would consider a smaller SUV. When your family gets bigger (both in physical size and number) you will probably want a bigger SUV.
    However, if comfort is your preference (as it is with me), then a big SUV is the way to go.
    Good Luck.
  • How have you used your SUV?

    I own a Yukon SLE (lower end model) and I have the 3rd row, sunroof, towing package (thats never been used). I have the car for 18 months and have around 20K miles. paid $700 over invoice (and had $3000 in GM card rebates and a $500 H&R block rebate)... so including sales tax we paid around $33K with a MSRP of $39k. We have one child.

    The regular Yukon has ample luggage space when the third row is folded up, and very little space when they are opened.

    Third row is for children and SMALL adults only. Getting in is not so bad (for children and SMALL adults)

    Truck is outstanding in bad weather conditions.

    My only regret is not going for the Yukon XL. The added space would've been a plus.

    In all, we love the Yukon and would highly reccomend it.

  • metmdxmetmdx Posts: 265
    Stopped by the local dealer yesterday (Sunday) and noticed the 2002 Tahoe's are on the lot. Can anyone tell me if there are any significant differences between the '01 and '02?
  • I have a 2001 Yukon that when it is parked on an incline can be difficult to shift out of Park. In one instance I was towing a boat on a steep boat ramp and had to get out of it. I set the brake then put it into park, the brake evidently didn't hold and the thing absolutely would not get out of park. I had to get a tow to take the pressure off to get it out of park. My dealer checked into this and said that this problem has occurred to other vehicles and that they are looking for a solution. Does anyone know anything more on this?
  • I read somewhere that the parking brake was only good for the weight of the vehicle itself. Once you exceeded that weight (i.e. BOAT) the parking brake would not hold.

    Go figure............I thought that is why you used the parking brake. Keep in mind that we are no longer dealing with rear drum brakes that would hold, now we have rear disc brakes that will not hold. I believe the parking brake works on a small set of drum brakes located on the inside of the rear rotor simular to the old corvettes. This brake pad looks like it came off a motorcycle.
  • My parking brake did not hold the weight of my Yukon even on a mild incline... I had my dealer adjust it (the sevice dept is great) and now it works like a real emergency brake (it'll stop the truck on a dime - even when in drive).

    illini, get yours serviced.

    These mini pads can hold the truck.

  • Could use some help on this one. Replaced the running boards on my 01' Tahoe with MAAP tubular steps. Big mistake I guess since after two trips back to adjust them, I can't get them to quit making annoying groaning and creaking noises when the frame flexes. May have to put the boards back on. Suggestions? Thanks
  • I'm finally ready to get my Tahoe. WHat is everyone's opinion on the Autoride Option. SOme say its only useful if your trailering
    Is it only on the rear suspension?
    Is the ride that different with or without it?

    By the way, I've seen several 2002 stickers, and it appears autoride and Thrid row seat are now part of the LT package on a lot of the new ones.
  • fortopfortop Posts: 239
    I don't trailer so can't help you there, but it is supposed to keep the truck level when trailering. I would think that an equalizer hitch would also accomplish that. It is only the rear shocks which are hooked up to a computer control. I notice very little if any difference between autoride and standard suspension. The only difference is that on small bumps or potholes the ride is better. If you hit a big bump, hole, or tarstrip - I see no difference in the ride. I would not expect much, if any, improvement in the ride. I think good highway tires would make more of a difference. My 2002 Yukon came with Firestone Wilderness LEs - GM puts the worst tire on thier best SUV.
    As stated above, I got the third seat only for resale. My only "must have" would be climate control, which I think puts you in Tahoe LT or Yukon SLT territory. Unless you need the doo dads, I'd stick with the lower priced LS. Also check resale value (depreciation) on this Edmunds site for a comparably equipped 2001 in LS an LT version and compare how much you lose in value in either version. Just my humble opinion.
  • The safety feature that requires pushing the remote door locks once for driver door then again for the remaining doors may be a nice safety feature, but is a PAIN when you are in and out all day and need all doors unlocked. Does anyone know how to bypass this feature?
  • I just went through 2 tanks of gas on my 2001 Tahoe z71 and only got 500 miles on them. This is about 10 mpg. I do a combo of city and highway driving. Will the gas mileage improve as the engine "breaks in"? Can someone let me know what kind of gas mileage I can expect. Thanks.
  • minikinminikin Posts: 389
    how heavy your foot is, but I get 18+ in my 4x4 ext cab Silverado in summer; 16+ in winter in 2/3 highway driving in high country with a light/moderate foot. I see 20 on a trip @ 5 over on cruise. Ten mpg is nowhere near reasonable; if that's really what you're coming up with, my next trip would be straight back to the dealer.
    -- Don
  • fortopfortop Posts: 239
    and at my house figuring out all of the controls. I'm expecting 15-16 + with careful city driving in the future. Of course, I think a 4WD will always get less than a 2WD, but I would try driving the speed limit and using slow takeoffs and cruise whenever possible - that would give you a better idea of optimal gas mileage. I think you should get the epa mileage on the sticker unless you really like to rod it. I think the Siverado is a much lighter vehicle, so I'm not sure you can compare it with the heavier Tahoe.
  • I have a 2001 Yukon from February. After the 3000mi check I am getting what sounds like a valve or lifter tap when I start the engine. I start it, it sounds fine for about 15 seconds, then this rattle (Sometimes loud enought to hear inside the cab) fades in for approx 30 seconds then fades out. Then all is fine. It sounds as if for a few seconds their is no oil in the top of the engine. I changed the oil and filter myself at 5000mi to see if maybe I had a bad filter or incorrect grade of oil from the dealer. This did nothing to solve the noise issue.
    Is anyone else having this issue on the 5.3 Vortec???

    Also, I noticed on many of the Yukon & Tahoe's made in GM's Texas plant (Unfortunatly mine as well) the drivers side rear door is out of alighnment by almost a 16th of an inch. This means that if the door is closed hard, the lower edge contacts the quarter pannel making a mark. I brought it to 3 dealers and an independent body shop that all said the same thing, the hinges are welded and their is no way to adjust them short of bending the hinge pin, or breaking the weld's and re welding the hinges. I had to stick a rubber bushing at the point of impact to keep my truck from dammaging itself.
    Anyone else notice this on their truck ?

    I know this is long, but I am frustrated. I love the truck, and want to resolve these issues but I am getting little confidence from my dealer's.

    lewski ...
  • obyoneobyone Posts: 8,054
    You are not alone with the 5.3 knock. Due to edmund's rules, I cannot post a direct link. However, you can check out under GM trucks and find several topics addressing this issue along with one on the edmunds pickup trucks conference. There is a fix in the works but no final word from GM as of yet.

    While the shops are correct in the part about breaking the weld or bending the hinge pin, they can adjust the latches to see if it helps. There is a kit available which replaces the welds with bolts. Not sure if you want to pursue this but it is supplied in case the door needs to be removed for repair in case of an accident.
  • My 2000 Tahoe began to not downshift when coming to a stop somewhere around 5000 miles. Back then it would downshift without any hesitation as soon a I gave it the gas. At around 30000 miles it started to hesitate for 2-3 seconds before downshifting. This makes pulling into traffic a little dangerous. This only happens every 1000 miles or so. I never know when it will happen so it can't be duplicated for the dealer. Until the transmission goes, or I get hit while pulling into traffic the dealer can do nothing. Does anyone else have similar symptoms??
    Thank you, Larry Smith
  • Engine Tick Noise at Valve Train Speed/Loss of Power (Replace Push Rod) #01-06-01-018

    Engine Tick Noise at Valve Train Speed/Loss of Power (Replace Push Rod)

    2001 Chevrolet and GMC C/K and G Light Duty Models

    2001 Chevrolet and GMC B7, C6, C7 Medium Duty Models

    with 8.1 L Engine (VINs E, G -- RPO L18)


    Some owners may comment on a ticking noise in the upper end of the engine. The noise is constant and does not vary with engine RPM. A loss of power may be noticed.


    The push rods may have been damaged from improper contact with the rocker arms.


    The engines affected have engine build numbers from T10104 to T10412. The identification labels are located on the left front and right rear of the rocker arm covers, and on the fluid pan. If the engine falls
    within the range above, inspect the push rod rocker arm end for cracks in the shaft (below the weld joining the ball to the shaft) and/or dislocation of the ball from the shaft. All of the push rods are to be
    replaced if any of them are damaged. Replace the rocker arms only if they have been damaged from contact with the push rod or a dislocated ball. Refer to the Service Manual procedure for push rod and
    rocker arm removal and replacement.

    Parts Information

    Part Number
    Push Rod Intake
    Push Rod Exhaust

    Parts are expected to be available from GMSPO on 6/29/01.

    Warranty Information

    For vehicles repaired under warranty, use:

    Labor Operation
    Labor Time
    Push Rod -- Both Banks
    See Applicable Time Guide
  • We are hearing a high pitched brake noise at 22K miles on our 99 Tahoe. Dealer says it is common around 30K miles because of different brake pad materials. Anyone have a similar experience?
  • Hi all,

    I am considering replacement tires for my fiancee's 1998 Tahoe (4 door, 2 wheel drive). She has Michelin XW4's on there right now, and she likes them just fine. I was also looking into the new CrossTerrain tires and was wondering if people had any experience with those in a 2wd Tahoe, or any other tires people might recommend.

    We live in California so she mostly drives on dry pavement, basically never off-road, but wet road performance is an important consideration for me. Occasionally she drives in the snow in Lake Tahoe, but she has chains for that.

    Thanks for your opinions.

  • Do you mean at stops or when pulling into traffic?

    If it is when pulling into traffic, it could be the a throttle position cable needs adjusting. I don;t know if Chevy's have one, but this used to be a problem on mmy Dodge's. I tells the tranny how far the pedal is pressed so it knows when to downshift. Probably close to the throttle cam.

    Just a thought,

  • grammo - my service 4wd light came on too (2001 Yukkon) starting at 15,000 miles. Took to the dealer & couldn't find any thing. Now it's come on again at 23,000 miles. Would like to know any one else's experience on how to solve this before I go back to dealer.

    God Bless America
  • I just finished reading most of the 1257 messages in this Board. Wheh.

    I bought a 2001 Suburban in May, and was very happy with it. However, it now pulls to the right (there are other problems, but I would like to solve this one first). I brought it to one dealer who "could not duplicate the problem". I brought it to another who aligned the front wheels... It worked for about 2K miles, but its happening again. My front Goodyear tires are feathering. The vehicle has 6,600 miles and is not driven poorly to cause improper alignment.

    Is anyone else having this problem?
  • Hi there,

    I recently bought a '98 Tahoe here in Germany (!) and wondered if she has a keyless entry or not because I think it should be standard with the LT model.

    Can anyone tell me where the receiver of the keyless entry is located?

  • Either way it is here:

    Remote Control Door Lock Receiver

                                        Under the IP, inside the right of the right steering column support bracket

    If it is there you can look on Ebay for remotes that will work with the truck or try

    Good luck

  • Hi jgmilberg,

    I'm from Germany, not from UK... :-)

    My car is left hand drive. I will have a look if it is there right now. Hope I find it...

    Thanks a lot.
  • I have a 2001 Yukon SLT. Fully loaded with sunroof. I bought it in October of 2000. My question is can I upgrade to the automatic climate control just by switching the units out, or is it more complicated than that. Also I have a extra amp that I would like to put in just to power the sub for a little more bass, any suggestions?? I love the truck just should have gotten a little more for the money.
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