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Chevy Tahoe



  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Posts: 2,242
    Speaking as a long time RV'er, watch for RV shows in your area. Many times the manufacturers will put money into discounts during these shows.

    A good resource for research are the forums on

  • Yep......i've spent more than my share of hours into the late night on, and others out there. Have also done the spreadsheet programs that help figure your tongue %. Unfortunately those don't take into account that the kitchen is in front of the axles, the propane tanks are on the front, the bike storage and the pass through storage containers are in the front, the low profile design and aerodynmics of the whole trailer so their 9% tongue weight on my set up could easily come in at 12-15% once loaded up. Only way to tell is to have them both and go to a scale. Not the ideal situation when you have neither until full purchase. So....i'm going by weights - which my GCVWR i'm alotted 14,000# with the Tahoe 4.10 4x4 and I'm barely over 10,000# if we max out the trailer with an additional 1,000+# unused in the Tahoe. So, tongue weight of 9%, which initially threw me off in search of a different trailer, no longer bothers me much since real world and spreadsheet are completely different. i've talked with many experts on the forums and have been assured that my set up is within the parameters and should be okay. Of course, by the time we buy the trailer anything could change but at least I now KNOW what I am doing and won't make a huge $$$ mistake when buying a Trailer. Thanks to people like you.

  • motor mount is gone missing, and vacum line on transmission is open.what effects will this cause?what can i do to repair?car starts up but runs kind of loose.
  • I have a '99 suburban...interior lights come on at will and drain the battery. you had a post with a solution, #4518. I'm new at this and could not find the post. Can you help me.
    I bought an interior light control module but could not find where it goes...had the dash all torn apart but no luck.
  • jpg0024jpg0024 Posts: 1
    Have you found out what the clicking noise is? I have a 2002 tahoe that does the same thing but I have no clue what it is
  • we found out the back end was the went out so now were stuck trying to get one.i guesss it is common with tahoes
  • ahightowerahightower TXPosts: 539
    I have a 2005 Yukon XL. Does anybody know why it will not pick up the phone ringing when you push the button on the steering wheel with the picture of the guy talking? That button will initiate a call, but it will not answer an incoming call. The only way to answer a call is by pushing the white dot button up on the rear view mirror. Kind of annoying. It's not that I plan to use it very often, my wife and I both have regular cell phones, with speaker phone features, and don't plan to do the onstar/verizon shared minutes plan. But I did buy 100 personal calling minutes through onstar for the car phone for $15. It seemed like a good deal, just in case my wife ever forgot her phone and needed to make a call.

    I guess I could call Onstar and let them explain it to me. But I just wanted to gripe about it.
  • I've had the same problem. It turns out that the inner steering column shaft needs to be regreased. GM has made a sleeve that is available at your dealership to ensure the grease stays fresh. Ask them about it, they'll know what you're talking about. Costs about $125 bucks to be installed at the dealership.
  • Does anyone know of an aftermarket product or a business that can install a headrest in the center position of the 2nd and 3rd rows of a Suburban? My 2nd row is a bench seat and it's as if they didn't think that center person needed the protection of a headrest. So then I'm looking to get a headrest in that center position. Seems improbable but I figure someone must do it. Anyone have any ideas?
  • I've had the tires on my 2005 Tahoe (purchased new last year)rotated at 7,500 miles a few months ago. I checked the tire pressure this weekend. I discovered that the display on the DIC ("driver information center"?) shows both front tires as the rear tires, so that the displays of LF and RF are actually displaying LR and RR; and vice versa for the rear tires - the displays of LR and RR are actually LF and RF. Is this because some sensor wasn't switched when the tires were rotated? Any comments will be appreciated. Thanks.
  • ahightowerahightower TXPosts: 539
    You have to reset them yourself. Look in the owner's manual. I need to do this myself, it's been several months since I had mine rotated and haven't gotten around to it. You start in some menu on the DIC, and then you begin by letting air out of the tires in the right order, within a certain time period, and it will "reassign" the codes it is receiving from the sensors to the correct location. It's not something you can expect the tire shop to do for you.
  • Thanks.
  • ahightowerahightower TXPosts: 539
    I found the owner's manual online, and put some screen shots of the TPMS reset instructions on my carspace album. I'd have typed them out, but they're a bit lengthy, and I'm a bit lazy.
  • Thanks again. I couldn't find the screen shots you posted on your carspace, but I did go to the on-line manual and found the instructions to reset the tire pressure codes on page 5-72. To start the process you have to turn the "exteior lamp switch" on and off 4 times in 3 seconds. I'm not quite sure what the exterior lamp switch is. Is it what I call the headlight switch? Thanks.
  • ahightowerahightower TXPosts: 539
    Yes, that's the headlight switch. You'll hear the horn honk when you get it. I just reset mine this weekend, it was very easy. I was letting air out of the first tire (front left) and counting the seconds on my watch. It says it takes 10 seconds, but the horn honked after only 7 seconds which kind of startled me... Then the next tire (front right) took about 15 seconds. I was starting to think I'd done something wrong, but it worked. So just be patient and get ready for that honk right in your ear!
  • I have a 2005 Chevrolet Tahoe LS. The side mirrors don't have the turn signals. I'd like to add them. Are the mirrors already wired for them, so that all you have to do is attach a mirror with the turn signal and maybe plug it in? Or would additional wiring be required? Thanks.
  • i want it to know if any one knows why is my engine light keeps coming on.. also does any one know how to fix it b4 taking it to the shop... i dont mind paying the money but if i can save my self the $$$ for something that small.. please help :confuse:
  • First u must download the code(s). Where do u live? Do u have an Autozone nearby?
  • i want it to know if any one knows why is my engine light keeps coming on
    There is a reason your light is coming on. And just turning out the light is not going to fix the problem. You'll need to read the code(s) to find out what is triggering the light.
  • Hey rockman...u still gettin' 18 MPG's in that the city??????
  • Hey rockman...u still gettin' 18 MPG's in that the city??????
    Nope...not on this past tank.....only 17.2 Why don't you just get off this subject. Every time someone posts mpg numbers that you don't agree with you tell them how impossible it is....blah, blah, blah. Well others including myself evidently have vehicles that do deliver better mileage than yours does. Too bad. Maybe you need to learn how to drive for economy...maybe you are using gas with a lot of ethanol in it....maybe, maybe, maybe....who knows. Go ahead and tell everyone how bad your mileage is...but don't tell others what their vehicle is capable of. They already know. They put the fuel in, drive the miles, and do the math.
  • Evidently you were getting 18 MPG city with your Suburban on July 11, 2006...when you made that claim on this forum. Your statement is posted below.

    #1351 of 1809 Re: mileage [dsquare] by rockman59 Jul 11, 2006 (11:39 am)
    Bookmark | Reply | E-mail Msg
    Replying to: dsquare (Jul 09, 2006 6:58 pm)

    My 07 4wd LTZ is getting 12.5 MPG Which sucks
    Your LTZ has full-time 4 wheel drive and as I recall you have the bigger 6.0 V-8 and the 3.73 rear axle. With the 20" rims and wide tires your mpg will be much less than the LS and LT models with the 5.3 V-8. My 2006 has the 5.3 engine, 3.42 rear axle and 16" wheels. At 65 mph I am getting 22mpg. At 60 mph I get 23mpg. City driving is around 18 mpg. This is in 2 wheel drive, AC not on, and no stop lite drag racing.


    Are u saying that Suburbans can get 18 MPG city fuel economy? Consumers Union tested a 5.3L Suburban recently...and they documented 9 MPG city. They found the same when they tested a 5.3L Tahoe. And that's what my wife's Tahoe gets...that's what my friends and relatives' Suburbans and Tahoes driving.

    Now dsquare...on 7/9/06 is getting 12.5 MPG O/A. So he has to be close to 9 MPG city.

    Nobody else posted on this forum is getting anywhere near 18 MPG city. That figure is about double what all these other examples are getting.

    So - how do u get this double fuel economy from a Suburban??
  • steverstever Posts: 52,683
    I think it was well said - some people get better mileage on their rigs than others. There are lots of reasons and plenty of tips to help you improve your mpg (What Really Saves Gas? And How Much?). There's nothing to be gained by trying to dispute someone else's results just from their posts, and arguing about it discourages others from posting. Let's move on please.
  • Let's move on please
    Thank You!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
  • arriearrie Posts: 312
    I don't know how many Tahoes there are with this problem but as it seems to have quite big impact to how my '04 Tahoe engine behaves I thought to let you all know about it.

    My Tahoe has the 5.3 liter L59 engine, i.e. the one which can use up to 85% ethanol fuel and has the plastic intake manifold but I'm sure there are a lot of plastic manifolds also on other engine types.

    Trouble shooting my Tahoe's bad gas mileage at about 13 MPG highway I finally came to find this problem - The intake manifold bolts were loose.

    There are 10 bolts that hold the intake manifold in place. These bolts have a thick rubber washer and under the rubber it has a long sleeve, which limits the amount of force the bolt can induce to rubber and the manifold gasket seal.

    In my engine the plastic around the bolts seems to bee thinner at half of the bolt holes meaning that the tightening force on the gasket is even less.

    I found all of the bolts loose and in the end I removed the sleeves to get real force from the bolts against the gasket. I used different rubber washers under the bolt heads.

    Doing this work really made a difference in fuel economy but it also made a big improvement on how the car starts from a stop and it also made a difference in gear shift.

    I think this is all related to intake manifold gasket leaking, which increases manifold pressure, which in turn is monitored by the MAP sensor. I also think this has to do with engine ignition timing.

    If you want to work on this the first thing would be to check tightness of the bolts. You need a 'clicking' torque wrench, 8 mm socket and a couple of extensions. Tightening torque I use is only 7.5 lbft, which I found in a Haynes manual.

    I changed the gaskets and when I removed the manifold from the engine I could see a lot of dirt on top of the engine valley cover around the intake ports of the last two cylinders in back end of the engine. That was probably due to the vacuum generated by the leaking gasket.

    There should not be much dirt on top of the valley cover since the gap between engine and intake manifold is sealed quite well at both ends with a thick foam seal. Dirt will go thru these seals if intake manifold gasket leaks.

  • Dear Rockman, regarding your engine light. I Own a 2004 Chevy Tahoe Z71. My engine light came on once since I've own it. I was towing my trailer and going down hill on a country road. I had the transmission in 2nd gear so I wouldn't have to use my brakes that much. I must have been lugging the engine, because I think it backfired on me. It was hard to tell with the beifed up exhaust on the Tahoe. I noticed the engine light was on. It did however after a couple of days finally go off. When I got home from my vacation I plugged my analizer into the port below the steering wheel. I bought the analizer at Auto Zone some time ago. After I plugged it in and had it read the codes it came back with 3 codes. So I wrote them down and then pushed the reset on the analizer to erase the codes. They all erased because the problem had corrected itself. I looked up the codes and they were all saying low octane level. Just in case your not familiar with octane, it's the difference in fuel. I use 87 octane or just the plain unleaded fuel. That is all this vehicle requires, 87 Octane. So the engine light came on because I was lugging my engine towing my trailer in 2nd gear downhill. This could have been your problem, low octane. The easiest and cheapest way to find out why your engine light came on is to plug the analizer into the port below your steering wheel. They aren't cheap, but Auto Zone will let you try one for free in front of their store. They are as simple to use as tying your shoes. Just plug it in, just like plugging in a lamp. The only difference is the plug end. Then push a button that says read. It will return on the screen either No codes found, which means everything is ok, or list codes found, which will tell you in the book that comes with the analizer what the codes mean. It saves Mechanic bills which could be hundreds or even thousands of wasted dollars and takes the guessing out to try and figure out the problem. I hope this helped. :shades:
  • Dear Rockman, regarding your engine light
    That was good information you posted Johnny but I was not the one with the engine light problem.
  • Just a reminder...this type modification will give your dealer ample reason to void any existing warranty.

    Finding all 10 intake manifold bolts loose probably means someone worked on the engine...who didn't tighten the bolts according to GM specs. Inexperience no training, or plain just the likely cause.

    Most intake manifold leaks are easy to detect. They produce a high pitched whistling sound. Air rushing into the leak opening causes the noise. An experienced mechanic will pick that up very quickly.
  • arriearrie Posts: 312
    An 'experienced mechanic' at my dealer did not pick it up while the vehicle was under warranty and yes, it did make a high pitched whistling sound just like you suggested.

    Replacing intake manifold fastening bolts with a better design might give this dealer what ever reason to void warranty. Well, it is well beyond their warranty and it doesn't matter any more.

    Tightening the manifold bolts and changing it to an arrangement that really makes the gasket tight actually helps to maintain the engine since it keeps unfiltered air from entering in the engine.

    Just a detail from this all. When I first purchased my '04 Tahoe it gave me 17 MPG fuel economy on interstate highway. It gradually went worse and after about 1500 miles my fuel mileage really went bad to about 13 MPG during same driving conditions that first gave me 17 MPG. When I complained about this the dealer said it will get better when the engine is broken in. It just did not happen.

    At that time I also noticed the whistling sound, which actually sounded like a radio sometimes does when it picks up disturbance from the alternator. Sound did not go away when I turned the radio off.

    My dealer could not find where the sound was coming from and since the computer did not set a code they said nothing is wrong Even when every body could see that my Tahoe's tail pipe was as black as an old junk burning a gallon of oil per 1000 miles. And my truck didn't burn any, nor does it now. Tail pipe now is clean though.

    I seriously recommend anybody who has a Chevy truck with the plastic intake manifold to check the tightness of the fastening bolts. It is very easy to do and I'm sure there are plenty of them with the same problem.

    And I can assure you that nobody worked on My Tahoe's manifold bolts before I found them loose. They just vibrated loose during those first 1500 miles, which can happen to anybody as they might just have an improperly calibrated tool where the engines are built. My truck was built in Arlington, TX. I don't know where the engine comes from.

    What comes to GM warranty, you can wipe my a.. with it. They even advertise 100 000 mile powertrain warranty now. What good is that when they dont respect it when it is only 36 000 miles long?

    I don't believe I'll buy another GM made vehicle again. I don't think that someone, like me, who spends almost $40 000 to get his hands on one of their vehicles should receive treatment as I have during warranty period.

    I already bought a new Chrysler Pacifica for my wife instead of a Chevy Trail Blazer as I first had thought. I traded in the '01 Pontiac Grand Am.

    Pacifica seems to be very solid car and when it is time for me to get another vehicle a Pacifica it will be, unless they screw up like Ford and Chevrolet already have. In that case I just have to give up and go with people who don't treat their customers as junk after the point of sales has taken place. Those folks come from across the big water...

  • I decided to check my manifold bolts after reading your message. They were loose, from 1/8 to 1/4 turn. I couldn't check a few because I don't have a deep socket. I was surprised that they were so loose. My engine has never been worked on. I was also surprise that the intake is plastic. Do you have an opinion on the plastic intake manifold? Should it be replaced with a cast iron or aluminum? Or is the plastic better?
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