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Chevy Tahoe



  • 73shark73shark Posts: 325
    Probably but you will need the factory service manual to track it down.

    You might check all of the electrical connections.
  • i donno i anybody faced this issue! i bought my chevy z71 a couple of months back, since there was a great offer at that time , i wanted a black car, so i was left with 1 unit available which was a z71.
    I do not go off road and stuff! i just like the shape, the 2 things that i really hate in it are the extremely silly looking 2 tone front bumper and the ugly small rims...i feel driving a degrading car whenever i cross the classy ltz on the road.
    For cost saving i will not change the tyres and rims till its time to change it ...when it comes to the bumper...can somebody please HELP !! does the LT, LTZ bumper works on the z71? or the plastic covers over the wheel will mismatch ?? the dealer in dubai is not a reference to ask,
  • 73shark73shark Posts: 325
    The front bumper covers aren't interchangeable due to the Z/71s fender flares. Why not just paint the fake skid plate black?
  • Bought my 03 Tahoe new and have spoiled it with on time maintenance. Just had the 60k service in Jul 09. Took it in at 62k for loud squealing from two belts (serpetine and AC) and a strange thumping from the front. Dealer checked front differential fluid and metal shavings were present. Ext. warranty ran out Dec 19, 09. Rebuilt differential was $1100.00 and Chevy would not give me any goodwill on the price. Love the rig (tows excellent) but GM support is in the crapper. Anyone else tow and have this issue (front or rear).
  • Ok, it went into the shop again. This gentleman said he thinks it was the distributor. So, he replaced that (since it was replaced 2 yrs ago, it was still under warranty cause it was a rebuilt one, and he had to change the intake manifold gasket anyway, so parts and labor on it were free) and it stopped the idling problem, so now it's back to normal. Thanks everyone for your input on this issue. I appreciate your help. I hope this is the last time i have to talk on here because of a problem with my hoe, but i know it won't be :P
  • I had the RPM spasming problem, and now (just the past few days) it has started another problem. I will shift into drive from park once i start it up (usually the first time for the day, sometimes happens later in the day when i shift into drive) and i press a little on the gas to get going, and it won't move immediately, like a tooth has been grinded off in the differential. I think this is it cause i was an idiot about a week ago and tried racing a guy at a stop light, and pressed on the gas and the brake to have a quick take off when the light turned green. I think this caused the differential problem(i think it's the differential). So, I'm going to change the differential oil this weekend and reseal the gasket/check for metal shavings--unless someone knows what it could be besides the differential. Thank you. Sorry for the long message.
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    I would think the problem is more likely to be the transmission. The transmission is what would have been doing all of the 'slipping' while you are reving the engine with the brakes on. The differential is a set of gears that stay engaged all of the time.

    Wouldn't hurt to change the fluid in the differential, I just wouldn't expect it to change your symptoms at all.
  • 73shark73shark Posts: 325
    I agree. Sounds like a tranny problem to me. Might try a flush and fill to see if that does any good.
  • Thanks for the replies. Would you still believe it is the tranny even though it feels like it shifts solid once going? And should it be something I have looked at soon to avoid more costs?
  • If left idle for a week my tahoe battery would go dead.I found a 150ma drain until i removed the 15A info fuse under the hood.I haven't noticed any loss of any equiptment. What does that fuse energize?
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    What year vehicle are you talking about?
  • sorry, its a 2006
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    My 2007 manuals indicate that the Info fuse is for the Telltale assembly, right rear corner of passenger compartment in the waayyy back d-pillar.

    Do you have reverse sensor indicators on your vehicle, that warn you when you are backing into something...object detection?
  • Thanks very much.I didn't realize my owners manual had that information.My info fuse is for on star /rear seat entertainment. I have neither now, so the fuse will stay out.
    Thanks again
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    You may have confirmed something though. There have been a number of folks who mysteriously and periodically have a drained battery. I queried the last guy, and asked him to track when it happens to see if it by some chance was caused by a problem with the on-star call home every month. He never got back to indicate what he found.

    You actually traced the leak back to the onstar circuit, so that is the most damming evidence I've seen up to this point as to the potential cause of others problems.

    Will give them something to investigate....thanks for getting back.
  • Hey Dan!

    I am just curious if you ever got the Front Differential situation resolved and how. FYI, I feel your pain. I have an 2003 Suburban that I have "loved" since new with all of the factory maintenance per the schedule and just learned at 95k miles that the front diff is toast - same situation as you, dealership showed me a styrofoam cup of my front dif gear old - black goo full of metal shavings. Wants $2200 to change it out, but says I can drive it until next winter - probably - if I don't use the 4wd much. In our case, we'd towed a bit too (21 foot boat), but basically never in 4 wheel. Mosgt of the miles have been up and down the interstate (example: still running the original brake pads and they have 40% pad remaining).

    What did you do about your differential?

  • tsmith2233tsmith2233 Posts: 18
    This is a late reply, but I ended up taking it to the service shop that replaced the intake manifold and the guy checked the tranny fluid level and noticed it was about 1.5 quarts low! Yeah, I'm stupid for not checking it, but I haven't had any leaks, so it didn't cross my mind. Then, I remembered it was probably low from when a sh*tty service shop replaced the radiator and didn't top off all the fluids (that was about a year before, but figured that had to be it). Anyway, he topped off the tranny fluid and it has shifted flawlessly ever since! Thank you JESUS i did not toast it! I never get this lucky...I made sure to make note of it ha ha.
  • jlstutzjlstutz Posts: 3
    I have a 1997 Tahoe... replaced the door Jam switch replaced the alternator.. and a new battery but the dome light stays on after the key is pulled.. only goes off if I press the dome override switch ???? what's the problem... I heard something about a body control module..???? any help with this issue would be helpful
  • 73shark73shark Posts: 325
    Did the lite stay on before you replaced the door switch? Could be a bad switch if it did.

    Key has nothing to do w/ the interior lites.
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