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Isuzu Rodeo

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Comments

  • amigo_johnamigo_john Member Posts: 107
    The same thing happened on my 2001 Rodeo... Cracks everywhere...
  • amigo_johnamigo_john Member Posts: 107
    I talked to the local Isuzu service dept. about this issue. It seems the earlier 6-disc changers that weren't integrated into the radio were more problematic than the newer models. They told me to never put a CD-R into one of the older models as it would jam or break the mechanism. I have 2 of the newer changers and have never had a problem. Of course I've always been careful about pressing the load button and waiting until it was ready for a CD.
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    Are much better, had one in my trooper for 50K miles, never had a problem with CDr, etc.

    -mike
  • Boris2Boris2 Member Posts: 177
    They always say that we are not supposed to use CD-Rs in those changers. Mine started skipping on home recorded CDs are 2 years of problem free operations. I took it to local dealer and they said that I'm not supposed to use CD-Rs as they are "thicker and will jam the unit" I told them a numerous times that nothing gets jammed but rather skips. They said that I'm just lucky that it worked for two years but it "should" jam. They ended up replacing the unit (under warranty) and the new one plays CDRs just fine. I've head similar problem with other OEM stereos. They work in the beginning but after that they start skipping on home recorded CDs... that's a first sign that it'll be soon a time to get it replaced. My wife's protege had the same problem. It started skipping on CD-Rs and then, about 6-7 months later started skipping on originals... that's when I had to replace it with an aftermarket unit.
  • tonyscarstonyscars Member Posts: 1
    My lease return on my 2000 Rodeo is scheduled for 10/18/03. The Lease inspector finished his report 1 month ago(as req'd) with a zero fault score and absolutely no problems found. Well..as is always the case and just my luck my wife went to drive it later that evening and brought it right back home due to the truck bucking and popping. Well I discovered the same after driving it and realized something was really wrong with this truck. I must be honest and say that I have not put an extra dime into this truck out of the ordinary scheduled maintenace and tune-ups. Not a penny..I thought I really lucked out with a decent truck and a pretty good first lease experience. Well the long and short of it is that while the truck was on the flatbed in my driveway, my wife and I were on the phone with every Isuzu Dealer within my area of NJ. Every dealer had an excuse as to why they couldn't take the truck in for repair. My wife and I then starting contacting everyone and their sister at Isuzu that was supposed to give us authorization to take the truck to a mechanic of my choice since Isuzu was being very un-helpful(I remind you my truck is still at my house on the flatbed). So with all the messages we left, we got no calls returned so I had the truck towed to my mechanic who was within the towing range. Now the problem. the computer readings stated the IOS(?) modulator was bad on the top of the block. $194 part and it was replaced. Daignostics also showed the truck firing on only 3 cylinders thats why it had no power and would not go over 2500 rpm's and was still popping and clanking. This led us now to the EGR(exhaust gas re-circulater valve). Well from experience I tell you that no junk yard will have this part and very few dealers did as well. But I happened to drive and get one at an import auto mall about 45 mins away. Well that $175 part was installed with a new gasket and still the same problem. Now 1 month later my truck is still at the mechanic's shop and he has done all he knows and also replaced new platinum plugs at $13 a piece. He says he is stumped and I will have to now tow it to a dealer. So my problem remains..Do I take it in to repair it on my own?..Do I chug it into the dealer where it needs to be dropped off upon lease end and let them hit me with a hefty bill? Should I try to nickel and dime it to have it drivable to the dealer and leave it? oh..I also upon purchase of the lease I also opted for the extended wear and tear package that cost $15 more on to my monthly payments which is supposed to protect me from things considered out of the normal wear and tear. Needless to say the Mazda/Isuzu dealer I purchased the vehicle from folded and are out of business. Was this extra wear and tear package through the dealer or Isuzu? Not sure if any of this is covered under warranty. That's why we tried endlessly to get authorization before sending the truck anywhere for repair. Any suggestions at all would be greatly appreciated!

    Thanks in advance,
    Tony
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    I'm in SI, not far from NJ maybe we could trouble shoot it. I bet it's something simple.

    -mike
  • tonyscartonyscar Member Posts: 10
    Thanks for the response Mike..Whatever you can figure out dude...I'll definitely reward ya $$ if ya figure this one out..

    Tony
  • tidestertidester Member Posts: 10,059
    Please keep discussion of remuneration off the boards. Mike was not soliciting and you shouldn't be offering. Thanks.

    tidester, host
  • jtk152jtk152 Member Posts: 139
    Tony- Sorry to here about these problems!
    1) You need to know exactly what OBDII codes you are getting, otherwise
    you'll drive yourself crazy & broke replacing stuff!! get one of these
    if need be: http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=- 46030
    2) 1998+ (especially 2000+) are SUPER sensitive to spark plug brand.
    Make sure your mechanic used the SAME plugs that came out of the truck.
    NGK & Denso and sometimes even champions were used. Any others will
    cause misfires on 1998+ isuzu 3.2's & 3.5's.
    3) The EGR systems on these trucks are prone to carbon plugging & need
    periodic cleaning. It's basically a matter of removing the EGR valve, use carburetor cleaner to spray out the EGR ports, feed tube and valve pintle. Cleaning out around & behind the throttle plate is also needed- there is an EGR port just behind the throttle plate.
    G/luck
    Joel
  • tonyscartonyscar Member Posts: 10
    Thanks a bunch friend..Wish I saw this before I put in the new ION mod and the new EGR ($370 for both). Unfortunately neither of those fixed the problem and the truck is still at the shop to which the mechanic seems to have given up and I am currently going to get it towed back home I believe.The last tune up the mechanic used Champions which I had no problem with. I used another mechanic this time and he put in the platinums at $13 a piece. Might be a problem there.

    Tony
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    Tony, sorry I haven't gotten back to you, just been busy as all get-up. Not sure how your time frame is but I may be freed up a bit and maybe I and some other Isuzu owners in the area can help you out.

    I'm thinking it's the plugs, or the ECU at this point.

    -mike
  • mlinhardtmlinhardt Member Posts: 9
    I have a '93 Rodeo 4x4 5 speed w/ 165k miles(original owner) and until the voltage gage hits 12 no power is given to climate control and the idiot lights on the dash light. It usually takes 1/4 mile driving to hit 12 volts. I have replaced the battery recently. What might be causing this? Btw this has been an excellent vehicle, much better than my '97 Integra.

    I am buying a '03 Rodeo 4x4 5 speed. Btw I am flying to 700 miles to pick it up, because the 5 speeds are so rare. What are the main things I should watch for?
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    Alternator. Classic sympotoms for Isuzu alternator being bad.

    -mike
  • jtk152jtk152 Member Posts: 139
    mlinhardt- I know what you mean about 2003 4x4 5spds being rare. My local dealership was issued 2 for the 2003 model year (Buffalo NY) & my sisterinlaw bought one of them in June! Last I checked, they still had the other (a silver one). Main thing to look for is price. You should be able to pick it up for $19K even. Automatics are going for $19999. It's a great truck. I've had my 2002 for 1.5yrs w/out a single problem. G/luck!
    Joel
  • doylestdoylest Member Posts: 1
    I have a 94 Honda Passport 4x4 LX Auto with 85k miles. When the car starts, I can hear the valve lifters and when it runs, the lifters are noticeable. Is this common for the passport? My friend said 1999 Passport also have a loud noise. Is it time for an expensive repair? or rebuild? Thanks
  • tonyscartonyscar Member Posts: 10
    Hey Paisan..I'm heading out now to get some new plugs and carb cleaner as suggested. I believe I had champs in previously but I'll see what the book recommends..I'll let ya know how I make out.
  • amigo_johnamigo_john Member Posts: 107
    Well, I sold my 2001 Rodeo. Put it the paper and sold it the same day. I wound up buying a '99 Chrysler Town and Country to replace it. I have never been a fan of Chrysler but, like Isuzu, they are cheap to buy used. It just got too hard for my wife to cram our 3 children in the back of our Rodeo. I thought about the getting a 3rd row littleseat but they aren't safe in a rear crash. Anyway, I still have my Amigo but am a little sad to see the Rodeo go. Maybe the power/heated leather seats in the T&C will ease my pain... Oh well, at least I didn't buy an Assender.
  • mlinhardtmlinhardt Member Posts: 9
    In 1993 we were looking for a SUV. We looked at Pathfinder, Explorer, Bravada, 4Runner, Cherokee, and Rodeo. Based on features and price the Rodeo was less expensive and had more power.

    Flash forward 10 years, Isuzu is making a slow exit to the American market.

    What did Isuzu do wrong?

    Did they miss the SMV craze? I know offroad is their base, but Beta was also superior to VHS.

    Did they outprice the Rodeo? $31K+ for the 2002

    Did they switch classes? I have seem more comparisons between the Rodeo and the RAV-4. I always thought the Rodeo was in the same class as the vehicles I looked at in 1993.

    Is the dealership network the problem? My sister in Seattle liked my Rodeo, but the nearest dealer was 45 minutes away while the Honda(CR-V) was 10 minutes.

    Did GM do it or just accelerate the decline?
  • amigo_johnamigo_john Member Posts: 107
    CR and Edmunds both trash Isuzu. CU decided to ruin the Trooper and Edmunds goes out of its way to trash Isuzu at every turn. A good SUV, according to CU has a unibody frame for a smooth ride. I suspect if Isuzu bought advertisement space, the bad reviews might get better. Oh well, how long will it take for this post to get deleted?
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    Longer than twenty minutes apparently :-)

    Plus the one Edmunds owned a few years back probably left a few sour grapes around the office: Long-Term Road Test

    Steve, Host
  • jtk152jtk152 Member Posts: 139
    It's unfortunate Edmunds got such a lemon for a tester. I've been following various isuzu boards/forums for several years now, and I've NEVER seen such issues with a 1998+ rodeo. I've seen ZERO reports of water pump/ cooling system issues & have not seen those electrical issues either. They are definitely not flawless trucks- but they are far better than the test unit Edmunds had. American Isuzu has over priced their SUV's for too long, and only began to get smart about this in 2002, by discounting all models by $5000-8000 off of MSRP. 2003 models finally have a sticker that wont shock you off the lot. As they are priced now- you are not going to get more truck for your dollar. I've owned isuzu products in the past, and currently have three in the family: 2002 rodeo, 2003 rodeo & 2002 trooper. Any problems I've ever had were my fault, or due to normal truck wear/tear. I can't say that for any GM,Ford,DC vehicles I've owned!
    G/luck
    Joel
  • amigo_johnamigo_john Member Posts: 107
    you knew about the big rebates and discounts. However, if you just walked on a lot and started looking, the sticker was shocking. I'm sure that drove a lot of people away that didn't know they were discounted so much. Plus, the Rodeo only had one redesign in 13 years and it was a modest one at that. The Edmunds Isuzu vehicle was a mess, I have to admit... I would be mad if my vehicle broke down that much...
  • tonyscartonyscar Member Posts: 10
    Well I'm now leaning toward a stuck exhaust valve on my 2000 Rodeo. Any one else have this problem?

    After replacing the ION mod and the egr valve(possibly unnecessarily)it appears to possibly be a stuck valve. It starts, and Idles fine with no misfires present. The timing is in synch and it only starts losing pressure seemingly when I press the gas. It's not choppy or rough which may lead me to plugs or timing but I still have no power above 2500rpm. When I remove the EGR valve and cover the port holes, there is a tremendous amount of exhaust air blowing out the ports. Is this normal? I'm thinking there may be a stuck valve which is forcing all the air out this exit and may be keeping the egr valve in the OPEN position causing it to not have the power. Acceleration should have the valve in the closed position correct ? Any ideas or what may be a good product to release a stuck valve. My lease is due back in 8 days and I certainly do not want to pull the motor apart to do valve work. Any assistance is greatly appreciated.

    Tony
  • jtk152jtk152 Member Posts: 139
    No doubt about it, MSRP's were really shocking up to 2003. Plus isuzu didnt really advertise the huge factory to dealer rebates for 2002 either (isnt that surprising!) You pretty much had to talk to a sales person to find out about that. Most people peeked at the sticker & bailed out! As far as the redesign of the rodeos goes, yes, The 1991-1997 rodeo kept the same look, with some minor interior changes & major powertrain changes here & there, but- 1998+ is a completely different animal from head to toe. 6-7yrs with pretty much the same "look" isnt all that unusual.
    Joel
  • jtk152jtk152 Member Posts: 139
    Tony- typically EGR only comes into play on acceleration. No EGR on start-up or idle. Sounds like you've replaced a lot of stuff at this point. You'd have to compression test each cylinder to determine if you had a stuck valve or not. I highly doubt it. What OBDII codes are you getting??
    Joel
  • tonyscartonyscar Member Posts: 10
    Well I'm now leaning toward a stuck exhaust valve on my 2000 Rodeo. Any one else have this problem?

    After replacing the ION mod and the egr valve(possibly unnecessarily)it appears to possibly be a stuck valve. It starts, and Idles fine with no misfires present. The timing is in synch and it only starts losing pressure seemingly when I press the gas. It's not choppy or rough which may lead me to plugs or timing but I still have no power above 2500rpm. When I remove the EGR valve and cover the port holes, there is a tremendous amount of exhaust air blowing out the ports. Is this normal? I'm thinking there may be a stuck valve which is forcing all the air out this exit and may be keeping the egr valve in the OPEN position causing it to not have the power. Acceleration should have the valve in the closed position correct ? Any ideas or what may be a good product to release a stuck valve. My lease is due back in 8 days and I certainly do not want to pull the motor apart to do valve work. Any assistance is greatly appreciated.

    Tony
  • tonyscartonyscar Member Posts: 10
    Good point Joel. All the compression checks came back ok at the station..the code retrieved was for the ION mod and that was replaced.

    Tony
  • jtk152jtk152 Member Posts: 139
    Tony- it's possible you have one or more bad coil packs? (one over each spark plug). The GM/delphi ion sensing system needs good coil packs to work. Did you put denso plugs in? are the connectors to each coil pack making good connection? Are each coil firmly "clicked" onto each spark plug? I'd unplug each one, put some di-electric grease on the plug & re-connect them. Maybe even pull each coil & verify it's making contact w/ each plug. Twist as you pull each one- so it comes out in one piece. If the coil pulls off of the rubber tube- no biggie, just yank out the rubber tube & stick it back on the coil. Throw some di-electric grease between the tube & plug as well. G/luck
    Joel
  • jtk152jtk152 Member Posts: 139
    Tony- I'm going way out on a limb, but how's your battery? This definately sounds like an electrical issue. If your truck doesnt see somewhere around 13V and proper amperage, things can go wacky. Another thing to check is proper grounding. Make sure your chassis & engine grounds are good.
    Joel
  • tonyscartonyscar Member Posts: 10
    Good point Joel. All the compression checks came back ok at the station..the code retrieved was for the ION mod and that was replaced.

    Tony
  • tonyscartonyscar Member Posts: 10
    I will definitely check all that you recommend Joel. The mechanic did mention something about water being down in the 3 plug chambers on one side of the motor. The other side was ok. But he did replace them all with NGK Platinums. Cant really see how the water could get in there..but anything is possible. I will continue to troubleshoot. At this time the truck is in my driveway and I am investigating anything that may be possible.

    Tony
  • jtk152jtk152 Member Posts: 139
    Tony- Water down in the spark plug recesses will DEFINATELY short out a coil & cause a misfire. Did you go thru deep water or wash the engine bay prior to this happening? The spark plug chambers are pretty well sealed by the rubber cap on the top of each boot/tube, but a heavy volume of water or water at high pressure could get in there. I bet that's your problem. Either those coils are fried or you still have water down in there. Make sure all the spark plug chambers are clean & dry. Pull all the plugs to see which ones are firing & which are not. You can also swap the coils around to see if the problem follows the coil. G/luck
    Joel
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    Pricing has been updated but we don't have invoice pricing yet.

    Steve, Host
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    All I saw in there was idiotic people trying to compare it to the ride in the editors Honda or Camry. "Nice car, but not as good a ride as my honda"

    Well DUH, it's a TRUCK, not a CAR!

    -mike
  • amigo_johnamigo_john Member Posts: 107
    Here is the beginning of the Rodeo Review:

    >What Edmunds.com Says
    >An impressive V6 engine makes its debut for 2004. Too bad it has to be in the under-achieving >Rodeo.

    I never, ever, place any value on what Edmunds has to say about a vehicle. Ever!

    When I sold my Rodeo, it was to an individual who already owned one. I have owned three myself. How many of you Trooper guys have owned more than one Isuzu? 'Nuff said...

    John
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    '97 Rodeo that I leased, beat the crap out of for almost 50K miles with no maintenance done except oil changes every 5-10K miles with the cheapest oil I could find. Turned it in and it still ran and looked like new.

    -mike
  • tidestertidester Member Posts: 10,059
    Well, gosh, thanks for the vote of confidence. Try the Feedback Form if you have concerns.

    tidester, host
  • ae1awae1aw Member Posts: 6
    Hi, new to the boards, and to Isuzu. Just bought a '98 passport about 6 weeks ago, 89,700 miles, V-6, EX- 2 wheel drive. 2 previous owners, negative on any CARFAX reports.

    Have had the following done in the last 5 weeks:

    Replaced spark plugs, (Champions out, NGK in).
    Replaced timing belt and serp. belt.
    Replacd cam & crank seals.
    Replaced water pump, T-stat. (Gaskets, also).
    Replaced front wheel bearings & seals, and front brakes.
    Replaced battery, air filter, fuel filter & PCV valve.
    Replaced tranny fluid, filter and gasket at local tranny shop.
    Rear brakes at 50 %.
    Coolant system flush completed.
    Replaced shocks. (OEM out, Monro sensa-tracs in).
    Dealer installed new Mastercraft tires, P235/70R/16.
    Differntial fluid is ok, as is power steering.
    Throttle body cleaned.
    Oil / filter changed 4 times, using Castrol 10W-30

    So,what else should I do to bring this up to speed ????

     Passport drives fine, starts every time. Smooth on highway, gas mileage as expected. Lots of rattles, but I don't mind that at all.
    No drips or leaking that I can tell. Check oil 2-3 times per week, no usage as of yet.

    Appreciate ANY feedback.

    Thank You,
    Steve
    Tinker Air Force Base
    Oklahoma
  • ryanendresryanendres Member Posts: 122
    Great List! I would change the rear diffy fluid (Isuzu suggests every 30k and it is cheapy DIY job). I would also suggest unbolting the egr and spray it out with carb cleaner too. You also may want to flush the power stearing fluid too. I just pulled the lower tube on the power stearing reservoir, drained it. Filled it up jacked up the front of the truck, started it up and rotated the wheels to bump stop to bump stop to get the air out (as suggested in the manual, every 30k). Next you may want to run a couple of tanks of gas with Chevron Techron concentrate (8 bucks at Target) - or - you can take it to a place where the hook a can of cleaner up to the fuel rail to help clean the injectors and combusion chamber. I run a bottle of Techron before every oil change.

    Other then that, wash'er up give her a couple coats of wax and enjoy for another 90k!
    -Ryan

    -How hard was it to replace the cam and crank seals?
  • amigo_johnamigo_john Member Posts: 107
    How can Edmunds rate the Assender with a 5 year depreciation rate of ~69%? It's been out for how long? Oh yeah, I forgot, it's a Chevy in disguise, but the Isuzu badge automatically qualifies it for the Edmunds junk pile. At least they threw in the Tracker so poor Isuzu wouldn't hold all of the top spots.

    Top 10 SUVs With the Worst Residual Value
    Date Posted 05-07-2003
    The percentage following the vehicle is the total amount of depreciation that takes place over five years and 15,000 miles per year. The bigger the number, the worse it is. Keep in mind that the depreciation percentages are based on the national TMV price plus typical options plus destination charge.

    Isuzu Rodeo Sport — 68.90%

    Isuzu Ascender — 68.74%

    Isuzu Rodeo — 68.33%

    Chevrolet Tracker — 67.22%

    Isuzu Axiom — 66.96%

    Suzuki Grand Vitara — 66.78%

    Oldsmobile Bravada — 66.63%

    Ford Explorer Sport — 66.22%

    Kia Sorento — 65.57%

    Suzuki Vitara — 65.46%
  • tidestertidester Member Posts: 10,059
    How can Edmunds rate the Assender with a 5 year depreciation rate of ~69%?

    Actually, it's spelled "Ascender."

    Feel free to use the Feedback Form.

    tidester, host
  • amigo_johnamigo_john Member Posts: 107
    The Ascender hadn't sold many units as of 5-7-2003, the day the depreciation list was posted. I guess my question for everyone here is: How could they predict the depreciation of a new '03 model that had sold so few units?

    Sorry about the grouchy ranting. I'm just not convinced that Isuzus are disasters on four wheels. Seems like Isuzu has a small but very loyal following.

    I'm really not looking for an answer from Edmunds, I was hoping some of you Rodeo/RS/Axiom/Trooper/Ascender guys could explain it to me... Are Isuzus really that bad???
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    Love my Isuzus

    -mike
  • sbcookesbcooke Member Posts: 2,297
    With a shrinking dealer network (not even touching my own quality in service perception) and the possibility of them going out of business in the next few years, it isn't hard to believe they are coming up tops on the list. Who wants a used car with no dealer network to service it.

    Isuzu's are also know for being "trucks" not hybrids, which further shrinks its customer base.

    The MSRP on Isuzu's is high compared to actual selling price with discounts (one thing in my opinion that has hurt Isuzu from improving sales numbers), so the ratio of MSRP to purchase price to resale probably makes those numbers even higher. My 1999 Trooper's MSRP was $31500 and I got it for $24000++, so if I could sell it for $10000 (good luck) today that is about 40% of purchase and about 30% of MSRP.

    I wish their MSRP pricing was more accurate. I think in the long run it would have really helped them keep a market share.
  • amigo_johnamigo_john Member Posts: 107
    The MSRP to real price is very confusing. As far as service goes, the dealer here is Century Buick-Volvo-BMW-Isuzu. Customer service is not a problem. If it was Century Isuzu-Kia-Hyundai I might be worried.
  • tonyscartonyscar Member Posts: 10
    Thanks Joel...I am in the process of checking the plug chambers. There is no water apparent in the oil. I wonder if maybe the fuel injector connectors may have gotten wet. The motor was washed down before inspection at the self serv bay. Then the problems started.

    T...
  • jtk152jtk152 Member Posts: 139
    Tony, I guess it's possible the electrical connectors for the fuel injectors could have gotten wet. I wash the engine bays all the time on my vehicles (done it for years), including my 2002 rodeo & never have a problem. Of course use good judgement!! don't wash a HOT engine & dont spray the heck out of electcial stuff. Carefully pull the plugs on the injectors & coils, make sure their clean & dry + lube'em up with a dielectric silicone grease. You GOTTA be getting closer to a cure!
    G/luck
    Joel
  • raydahsraydahs Member Posts: 449
    They can't be all that bad, Honda put their reputation on the line re-badging the Rodeo and the Trooper, and they survived it.

    You can't take "ANY" publication as the Gospel, it's simply an opinion from a group of humans. Everyone has certain likes and dislikes which makes us unique. First, I consider the source, then use the data provided, consider how it effects my needs and make an educated decision based on data from multiple sources.

    Bad "Residual Value" can be a blessing. In the last 9 years, I've owned 4 new cars, the Trooper is 4-1/2 years old now. If it would have held it's value better, I know myself well enough to know, it would have been gone some time ago. Now I have to keep it for 10 years to get my $$$$$ out of it, plus I just "LIKE" it. Could I finally be growing up? So their is a positive to every negative:)
  • buck380buck380 Member Posts: 10
    Hey People, name's Buck. Hope I'm not stepping on anyone here. If I am, then the full name's buck380. Anyway, did the Welcome crap and spelled out why I'm posting, which is regarding replacement tires for my '98 Rodeo S 4x4, but don't know where it will show up with that 30 minute delay. Did some research on the web and found a coupla tires that look promising, but would like to get some feedback from anyone who has actually tried them. The tires are: Bridgestone Dueler A/T Revo's, Goodyear Fortera HL, Michelin Cross Country SUV, and Yokohama Geolander A/T Plus 2. [non-permissible content removed]--tie game, top 'o da ninth. Being from Chicago (read--we're not in this sucker), hope it goes for 7. Anyway, the Geolanders that came OEM are cracking pretty bad on the sidewall, and they squeal like a pig in parking lots. I want something that will handle wet and snow, feel nice and comfy hauling a light to medium boat, and can handle some northern Wis snow and logging trails. Plus, if that ain't enough, since I do spend most of my time on the road, handle decent and not be too darn noisy. So that's where I'm at--any comments or suggestions? Bye the bye, went and read the long term test for the LS. I have not had as negative an experience, tho I have had the gas pedal, battery harness, ABS recall fixes, and still need to get the slippery ABS problem fixed. Front seats, yeah they're not necessarily the best, but I get by. Overall, a good vehicle for the money spent. No, it's not an Accura or a BMW, but it's never let me down so far. Buck.
  • Boris2Boris2 Member Posts: 177
    Buck,
    I'm in the same boat with tires are you are... I looked at Revo as well but they seem to be VERY expensive (more than Michelin). Michelin are supposed to be the best (according to the reviews I was able to find and Discount Tire recommendations). They, however, are said to be relatively noisy. Mike (paisan) recommended Pirelli Scorpions and that's what I'll probably go with. Revos look more capable but they are new and cost over $150. Scorpions will run about $90 per tire. The only thing is that I'll have to go with 255 size instead of OEM 245. The origial size, apparently, is not that common so the tires will run over $120. 255/70-16 go for about $90.
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