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Isuzu Rodeo

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Comments

  • amigo_johnamigo_john Member Posts: 107
    The 2.2 in my Amigo has been flawless. I have 46k on it. The timing belt was changed at 30k due to a recall. I have had one warranty repair, that's it! I get 21.5 MPG whether it be city or highway driving. Power is not a problem for me because I'm used to driving diesels. If it looks clean and not abused, go for it. It will give you good service. If you're thinking about going off-road, forget it. If you need reliable transportation, the 4 cylinder will get you there.
  • rctennis3811rctennis3811 Member Posts: 1,031
    that the Rodeo's aren't that great?? apparently, that's all I've heard about Rodeos...even Edmunds says so...
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    Edmunds compared it to a honda accord. Said it had a trucky ride and bad milage. Duh! Of course it's gonna be trucky and have bad milage compared to a honda accord!!!!!!

    Don't buy it if you are looking for a soccer mom vehicle (cushy, plush, limo ride, echo/prius milage) you'll be very upset. But if you want a tough as nails truck that can take a beating... Look no further.

    -mike
  • amigo_johnamigo_john Member Posts: 107
    Never, ever, ever, ever, uses any oil! Both of my V6 Rodeos did. I did notice that the oil was always darker coming out of the 4 cyl when compared to the V6. I'm sure it's because it has to work harder. The 4 cyl has a different 5 speed transmission that matches the engine well so it doesn't lag like you would expect a small engine to and like JTK152 said: it has less stuff to break than the 4WD models.
  • blklionblklion Member Posts: 5
    has anyone out ther put a hi flow exhaust on this vehicle? if so how did it go, did it improve power/mileage? what are the limitations as far as pipe diameter? will it screw up the computer? and last but not least. i was told by dealer that k&n air filter will mess up mass airflow sensor, is this true.
  • blklionblklion Member Posts: 5
    my dash volt meter fluctuates during driving, volts go down if i accelerate hard, drops from about 14.5 to 12.5. it stays down then goes back up after a short period. it does this even if i back off gas pedal completely. i thought the voltage output normally stays steady and the amp output was what varied. is this normal for an isuzu?
  • blklionblklion Member Posts: 5
    thinking about lowering my rodeo about 3to4". any advise would be greatly appreciated.
  • jayzmahaljayzmahal Member Posts: 4
    im planning to buy an 03 rodeo and im just trying to research as much info about the vehicle's reliability, safety and performance. i hope i could get that from here. i havent owned an isuzu before and dont know anybody that does, can anybody give info about their reliability? i owned a ford explorer before and there's only one word to explain it "headache". i hope the rodeo can cure that. thanks!
  • raydahsraydahs Member Posts: 449
    Isuzu products generally have a better than average reliability. First, you need to do serious research on the dealers in your area, many have been dropping the Isuzu line as soon as the contract is up. Back in 99/2000, Isuzu sold the dealers on upcoming product that would turn things around. Well as you're probably aware, you don't have to wait in line, put a "deposit to hold" or pay over MSRP to acquire an Isuzu product these days. Although Isuzu's direct injection motor is slated for the 04' Rodeo and Axiom, too little too late!

    You will have to keep it until it dies also, resale value is worse than a Gateway computer:) Do some research on the business side and decide.....Good luck!
  • jtk152jtk152 Member Posts: 139
    Jayzmahal- My family has had great luck with isuzu products over the years. My 2002 rodeo LS 4x4 has so far given me 1.5yrs & 17Kmi w/ zero problems. It really depends on what your expectations are. If you want a tough, reliable, old-school truck based "SUV", that is comfortable & looks good, go for a rodeo or axiom. You will not find more truck for your dollar anywhere. Generally speaking, they are more reliable than a comperable blazer, explorer or durango. They are not the truck for you, if you dont keep up on REGULAR maintenance, and as stated, they are not the way to go if you plan on getting a good buck in resale value. Resale for isuzu's has not been great. If you are looking to just add gas & stop at the "iffy-lube" a few times a year, get a CRV or RAV4 & stay away from a truck.
    G/luck
    Joel
  • crownedonecrownedone Member Posts: 1
    Hi everyone,
    Just bought a brand new 2002 Rodeo, and not a week later did it start squeaking as I drove over small bumps on the road. It's been to the dealer 3 times for this problem, and they've told me that they've lubricated many parts in the suspension. Still, the problem continues. It's quite an irritating sound! Ugh! It occurs sometimes more when I'm turning or breaking. Any ideas?
  • armtdmarmtdm Member Posts: 2,057
    The drop in the dash meter upon acceleration, lights on, A/C etc. is perfectly normal. We inquired about this when we had a new alternator put on and if you read your owner's manual, mine at least, states that this gauge will fluctuate when driving.

    I would not be concerned unless it drops to a new low at some point but fluctuation is normal
  • jtk152jtk152 Member Posts: 139
    crownedone- are you 100% sure of the location of the noise? Check the bump stops on the hood & make sure they are threaded out enough to hold the hood firmly when it's latched.
    G/luck
    Joel
  • drmpdrmp Member Posts: 187
    My '99 Passport has been pinging every now and then. I started reseaching until I read a detailed article written by a chemist who used to work at Mobil, formulating fuel additives for mobil gas.

    This is what I learned, any brand of gas will have their own kind of residue that tend to build up unless you switch to another brand which cleans up the residue but the second tends to form it's own residue. It was recommended to switch to another brand every few months to prevent residue build up, I switch every fill-up. Bottomline, switch from one brand to another. I also switch from 87 to 91 octane depending on the presence of the ping and then back.

    I used to pour chevron techron fuel system cleaner with consistent elimination of ping but it then came back after about 2-3K miles. Now with gas brand and octane joggling, pinging has been well under control.

    I am vey sure this is one of a hell very helpful information for you 'pingers' out there.
  • prymlskremprymlskrem Member Posts: 1
    Crownedone - I KNOW what you are going through. I have a 2002 Rodeo Sport v6 with less than 10K on it.

    A few thousand miles ago it started squeaking on the left side...now it squeaks on the right side too. It's like a rubbing, chafing noise from the suspension wheel well area that something is loose and is going to fall off. It isn't constant but it's a loud and obnoxious racket when it's going on. "Squeak, squeak, squeak...rub, rub, rub..."

    The dealership "looked at it" (for all of two seconds) the last time I had it in. All they did was look at me funny, like it couldn't possibly be making noise and adjust the hood, which isn't where the sound comes from. And of course, it won't make the noise at the dealership. If you've found a solution to your problem, let me know! Anyone else have any ideas??
  • amigo_johnamigo_john Member Posts: 107
    Both my Amigo and Rodeo squeaked like crazy when going over bumps. I couldn't figure out where it was coming from. Turns out it was the seatbelt fastener bolt under the seat squeaking! Century Isuzu found it and put plastic washers on each side of the bolt on my Rodeo and it stopped! I never did get the Amigo fixed and it still squeaks. The squeak sounds like it is coming from underneath. I know this probably isn't what is causing your squeak but the Isuzu manager told me they found it all the time on Rodeos... When I told him about the phantom squeak he told me to take it to a parking lot and drive around with the seatbelt off and see if the squeaking stopped. It did...
  • danimal11danimal11 Member Posts: 2
    jtk152,

    I was experiencing what I thought was a squeak in my suspension in my '01 Rodeo. After reading your post, I noticed my hood was lower than the quarter panels. I opend it up, raised the bump stops, and no more squeak! You saved me a lot of trouble! Thanks.
  • isuageisuage Member Posts: 1
    Dont give any merit to any review from Edmunds.
    For 2004 the Rodeo has the 'best' engine for performance and efficiency. And the reviewer simply just 'skips' that fact.

    I've driven a 2000 for 60kmiles, and there have been no recalls, and I've had no problems with it, other than a burned out bulb that was replaced under warrenty. And it's been driven offroad, in the snow and in -30degree weather. It's even been driven for 28 continous hours. The mileage has been 'slightly' better than promised @ 20.5 - 21mpg with 350lbs of cargo.

    It's been a solid off road vehicle .
  • tidestertidester Member Posts: 10,059
    That's a pretty big leap!

    If you have issues with the editors then please fill out the Feedback Form. They'd love to hear from you.

    tidester, host
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    No offense but we've been screaming about the Isuzu reviews for YEARS and never have they even dignified it with a response nor any change in their attitude. Like the "long term test" of the Rodeo where the resounding comments from all the editors was...

    "Its way too trucky, compared to my honda accord, and the gas milage is horrible compared to it as well" Well obviously it's an SUV, a truck-based one at that, it's not going to get milage like a compact family car, nor ride as well!!!!!

    -mike
  • tidestertidester Member Posts: 10,059
    No offense taken.

    I just thought it was a pretty big leap to conclude that the reviews are useless based solely one one's disagreement with respect to a particlar vehicle.

    As an aside, I am always amused by some (not on this board) who insist that SUVs (read TRUCKS!) are more comfortable than cars. But that's just me!

    tidester, host
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    I hear yah. I think that's only in their mind. That's why I have a few cars :)

    -mike
  • rodeojoerodeojoe Member Posts: 1
    Hi All,

    I'm looking at a 2000 2WD LSE 60K miles with:
    leather, power everything (except seats), sunroof, premium sound, premium wheels. Car looks clean. Requires 60K service, new tires, rear struts, fan belt, spark plugs. All about $1,200 in work.

    Seller is asking around $11,500. Does this sound like a bad, good or great deal to those of you in the know? Thanks for the help!
  • jtk152jtk152 Member Posts: 139
    rodeojoe, 11500 is real close to what kbb says. I'd set a max at $11K since it 2WD & work it down since it needs tires. That will set you back atleast $400-500. A full dealer 60Kmi service for a 2000 2WD would likely be over $500 as well. You want to change out the ATF, flush the coolant, new spark plugs, change the rear axle oil and inspect/ re-grease front wheel bearings.
    G/luck
    Joel
  • cracoviancracovian Member Posts: 337
    New 2003 loaded Rodeos 4x4 (!) (minus the leather) sell for 17K-18K in Illinois (check out isuzudealers.com). They come with a great warranty and won't need any major service for another 4 years. That sounds like a good deal to me...
  • hawgwildhawgwild Member Posts: 6
    I just bought a new 2003 Rodeo 2WD, V-6 that is loaded. The MSRP was $25,102 and I purchased it for $16,397. Does this sound like a good deal? I felt like I got a good price.
  • cracoviancracovian Member Posts: 337
    Congrats - That sounds like a very fair price (9K off MSRP) - what state did you get it in?

    Was it 16,397 plus tag, tax and title or was it the actual price out the door that included everything?
  • hawgwildhawgwild Member Posts: 6
    That was out the door price. I did purchase extended warranty and service plan. I financed $17,700. The service plan I thought was worth the mony because I have oil changes for 3 years every 3750 miles and every 8000 they rotate tires, clean fuel injectors and a few other things. I am a fishing guide and I put a lot of miles on a vehicle. Usually 15k-20k per year. That is why I bought the extened warranty.
  • hawgwildhawgwild Member Posts: 6
    I bought it in Longwood Florida.
  • cracoviancracovian Member Posts: 337
    So you're not really looking for a confirmation of a good deal - you're just bragging :-)

    I hope that Isuzu dealer stays in business for at least another three years though. They're falling down like flies :-(
  • hawgwildhawgwild Member Posts: 6
    I really am not bragging, just curiuous if that was a good deal. The dealership has been around for 30 years. They are a Dodge, Isuzu, and Subaru. They should be there. I feel like it was. My neighbor bought 2. When they bought the first one I thought she just got a good deal, then 3 days later they bought another and she told me they were moving thme out for the 2004 models. I bought it New Year's Eve so htey were giving good deals.
  • cracoviancracovian Member Posts: 337
    I'm joking about you bragging - yes, you got a good deal. Does it have leather? I noticed that not many 2003s, if any, have leather.

    I currently have a 2002 Trooper and wouldn't mind adding another Isuzu to my stable. I might hold off a year to get a 4x4 Axiom real cheap. Nice engine, a little bit better crash rating than a Rodeo, and TOD to kill for... But I've also been eyeing some Rodeos up north. I don't think they have that many good deals in Georgia.
  • atlgaxtatlgaxt Member Posts: 501
    I'm from Atlanta also and one problem I have noticed is that the vast majority of Isuzus around here are low-end models and it is almost impossible to find one with leather and 4wd. I had a 99 Rodeo LSE with 4wd and everything that I just turned in on lease. When I tried to buy a new one, I could not find any 4wd making it hard to get a good deal.
  • hawgwildhawgwild Member Posts: 6
    Leather is the only option it did not have. From what I have researched and read it has all the other goodies. It is 2WD, but I really don't have any mountains to deal with in Central Florida. I like the Winter and Power buttons. They work great at the boat ramp. I owned 1 4WD in my life and the only time I ever used it was to play. Being a fishing guide I don't do that. As long as it pulls the boat it is all good. It really pulls the boat nice.
  • ryanendresryanendres Member Posts: 122
    Sorry to hear your having problems. The key thing you can do are:
    1: clean the egr port tube(behind the intake butterfly).
    2. clean or replace PCV
    3. Clean egr and the egr tube.

    Then if you want to try to fix the rings you can warm the engine for 10 minutes, pull the plugs, dump a little Sea Foam down into the clyinder. Let it sit for a bit 20 mins or so. Turn the engine over to push the Sea Foam out. Then install the plug and your set. Now I have never done this before, so you may want to follow the instuctions on the sea foam and just dump a 1/2 can into the oil and run it for 500 miles and then change the oil. You can also add sea foam to the gas too.
    -Ryan
  • mlinhardtmlinhardt Member Posts: 9
    I purchased a 2003 Rodeo 4WD 5-speed in a state without front plates and my sate(Illinois) requires front license plates.

    I called a dealer and they say it is not covered by warranty. They also said there was not "kit" for installing them.

    Has anyone installed front plates from scratch. Are there instructions? Is there a BOM? I do not want to randomly drill into my vehicle.

    I tried calling the customer relations and I gave up after 15 minutes on hold. I called again and they were decidely unhelpful suggesting I call the dealer. They had neither a BOM nor instructions. They also said it was not covered under warranty.
  • ryanendresryanendres Member Posts: 122
    Call the guys at Stcharlesauto.com

    They will help you out.
  • mlinhardtmlinhardt Member Posts: 9
    I talked to Stcharlesauto.com. They were very friendly, but gave me a similar answer to other dealers. Use a self-tapping screw, but when I pressed for what size they did not know. The best offer I got was from a dealer 35 miles away who said they would give me a few screws.

    I just want to know what the thread diameter and the length is so I can go to Ace Hardware and pick them up.
  • bama_lukebama_luke Member Posts: 27
    First I want to find out if something I heard recently is accurate. When I bought my 2000 Rodeo LS (new), I told the salesman that I change my own oil and air filter, and asked if this was going to pose a problem with the warranty. He said no. I then asked if I need to keep all my receipts and such when I do this and he said when the Isuzu service people examine a car for warranty issues, they will first determine if the problem is due to neglect and if it is not, the warranty will be honored. My previous car was an 11 year old Plymouth Sundance which I got in college, so this was my first car purchase and I stupidly trusted the salesman who sounded genuine. As far as the service is concerned, I change the oil every 3,000 - 5,000 miles and try to do it closer to every 3,000. Other maintenance I've had done at chain maintenance shop on schedule. My question is, if something powertrain related does come up, am I screwed as far as being able to make a warranty claim? If so, is there anything I can do (such as pay Isuzu for some kind of thourough inspection) to make sure that the warranty remains in place? I don't expect to have to use the warranty because Isuzu wouldn't offer it if they expected the car to break down in that time period. However, for peace of mind, I'd like to know it's still there.

    That said, I'm approaching my 60,000 mile maintenance, and it's a doozy. The dealership where I bought the car said it would be approx. $400. If my warranty is not going to be honored because I don't have receipts to prove maintenance was done, is there any benefit to having the maintenance done there vs. at Pepboys where it will be just under $300 and that will include cleaning the fuel injectors (this would be another $70 - $100 at Isuzu)?

    One last pair of questions. My check engine light came on intermittently about a month or so ago and the service manager at the dealership said to give it some time because there are some things that can cause this that will also correct themselves (ie. gas cap not being installed correctly). Well, the check engine light is no on continuously so I figure I better get someone to look at it and correct whatever is causing it. What are some common causes for the check engine light coming on? Also, my low fuel light has just started coming on and blinking. this starts happening at between 1/4 - 1/8 of a tank of gas, so it's not simply a low fuel indication. My gas mileage has fallen off sharply in the last 2-3 months or so, and I'm assuming that this could be related to one or both of these lights, but I really don't know.
  • bama_lukebama_luke Member Posts: 27
    I just learned that there is a repair shop close by that claims to be an Isuzu authorized repair shop (to the extent that they claim warranty service can be done there). Does Isuzu have partners like this? Is there any fall back to Isuzu if I had a problem with this shop?
  • ryanendresryanendres Member Posts: 122
    Start to keep your reciepts now. If you do have problems down the road at least you will have some sort of record.

    Fuel light blinking, is due the the contact arm in the tank is slightly bent and now the gas guage is inaccurate. The solution is to drop the tank and bend the little arm. I think it may be covered under the 12/120k warrenty.

    The CEL ususally comes on for emissions reasons and yes the gas cap is the common cause. You may also want to pull your EGR and clean it (DIY 30 min job). Also, if there is an Autozone in the area they will read the codes for free.

    Gas mileage dropping, yes, during the winter they use a different blend of gas (winter grade), and the colder weather gas is not as explosive, therefore you need more gas in to = the same power as you do in the summer.
  • bama_lukebama_luke Member Posts: 27
    I can stop at Autozone and they'll plug the car in and be able to tell me why the CEL is on for free? I've gone for battery and alternator testing before but didn't have a clue they could do the CEL diagnostic. If that's the case, you just made my day.
  • bama_lukebama_luke Member Posts: 27
    About two years ago, I bought a 12 disk CD changer for my Rodeo and had assumed it could mount under one of the seats. Assuming that was my error. I think someone here directed me to a site where someone had mounted their changer vertically above the rear wheel well. That's what I did, but was very concerned that I'd have CDs skipping all over the place. I am happy to report back that after 2 years, I think the player has skipped maybe 1/2 dozen times, and those have been when hit some major bumps or potholes. If anyone else is trying to figure out where to mount a CD changer, and your changer can be mounted vertically, this is the place. It's pretty much out of the way, but still easy to get to.
  • bama_lukebama_luke Member Posts: 27
    Ok, just got back from Autozone and got the following information. First, if your check engine light goes out, there's still a chance that the sensors will store the error codes they've received. I had three codes stored:

    P0463 - The PCM has determined that the voltage signal from teh fuel level sensor is too high for the current engine operating conditions.

    I mentioned that someone had told me I might have a bent fuel sensor arm in my fuel tank and he said that might be the cause of this error, but he wasn't sure.

    P1404 - IAT-B Circuit Malfunction / EGR Temperature sensor circuit.

    He wasn't sure what this one was, so any help would be appreciated.

    P300 (I think, I forgot to get this one printed out)
    He said this was saying I've had 1 or more misfires and it's probably time to change the spark plugs. I've done this on a Plymouth Sundance and Saturn SL2, is there anything different about the Rodeo I should know before changing the plugs? Are there any specific plugs I should use or avoid?
  • ryanendresryanendres Member Posts: 122
    P1404, mostly is your EGR is stuck open or closed. You need to remove the EGR and spray it with some carb cleaner and spray some carb clean down the EGR tube also. Make sure you purchase carb cleaner that is safe for O2 sensors.

    here is my how to I wrote up on a different site:
    ---------------------------
    "First I disconnected the Neg terminal on the battery.

    I loosened the two screws on the intake, removed the tube that goes to the vavle cover, and then tried to remove the one sensor plug. Which didn't happen, but there was enough slack in it to move the intake and place it above the TB.

    So I take a look at the butterfly valve and it doesn't look half bad. I open it and there is a bit of carbon build up. So I sprayed that area, and wiped it out with a shop towl. Then I sprayed into the intake and washed that down a bit too (.25 of the can). Next I saw the tube that Keith mentioned that cools cly #1, and I ran a Test Tube brush about 4-5 inches down it with little problems. After that I put a shop towl in the butterfly to let it air out.

    Next I removed the EGR, 2 bolts and one plug. And then remove the EGR itself. I sprayed down the inside of the EGR and lots of flaky carbon washed out. I also, sprayed some down the EGR tube and the hole next to it, and ran the test tube brush down it a bit. Then I let the EGR sit out and air out for about 30-40 minutes before I installed it. Then I put everything back together.

    Then the fun started. I turned the key for about 5 seconds and it would crank and crank and crank but nothing. I tried again and the same thing happened. One more time, and it turned overed and stummbled for about 7-10 seconds. Then I started to give it a bit of gas and then it happened! The dreaded Flashing Check engine light! NO! At this point it was running just fine so I took it for a spin around the block. Everytime I accelerated the CE would flash. Hmmmmm, what is going on here? Luckly I live about 2 miles away from my dealership, I pulled in told them that I had a CE flashing and they checked the gas cap, and asked if I had tried to restart the car yet. Nope, so I did that, reved it a bit and NO CE. Yippy! So I drove home and the CE never flashed once!"
    ---------------------------------------

    The plugs are easy (or at least I have heard this). Make sure you hold onto the coil and twist twist twist and then twist and pull at the same time. The one hard plug to get at is the one by the brake master cylinder. you will use two extensions and one flex joint to get it out. Use Desno or NGK plugs, stay away from autolites, champion, bosch.

    If you are the 1st owner of your Zu then the gas sender unit is covered under the 10yr/120k warrenty:

    http://www.isuzu.com/owners_warranty_2000to2002.jsp#

    -Ryan
  • mhoward74mhoward74 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 98 Passport. From time to time when I am stopped but in Drive the idle starts oscillating from about 400 RPM up to about 2500 RPM. I usually have to drop it into neutral and rev up to keep from having it shutdown on me. Any thoughts?
  • ryanendresryanendres Member Posts: 122
    Sounds like a classic exaust manifold gasket problem. Or a fuel filter problem.
    -Ryan
  • saiman9saiman9 Member Posts: 4
    Ever since i took my car to Precision Auto Tune Care for a 60000 mile service and timing belt change, I am having major problems:

    Engine running rough
    Low power
    Check Engine Light on
    Major Vibrations

    The Precision guys could not fix it. So I took it to the Isuzu Dealer. They said that the wrong spark plugs were put in and that the timing was off and they fixed both of those. They also said that the 'fuel sending unit' was bad and needed to be replaced. Even after the replacement, the CEL was still on and finally they said it was the O2 sensor on the left bank. Even that did not fix the problem. Then they said that the catalytic converter got burnt because of excess fuel from the wrong spark plugs. Now after changing the catalytic converter, the CEL has gone away but the engine is still running rough, and the dealer is still trying to fix it.

    Any ideas on what could be causing this? Any help is appreciated. I have already spent $3000 on this non-warranty stuff since the only thing covered was the catalytic converter. The car has 66000 miles on it.

    Thanks
  • jtk152jtk152 Member Posts: 139
    saiman9- You could have easily gone twice that mileage before you needed a T-belt changeout! Plus that is a major risk trusting a franchise type auto repair shop to do this kind of work. It is an involved job for someone who hasn't done one of these trucks before. You DEFINITELY want to run nothing but denso spark plugs in a 2000+ 3.2/3.5L because of the ion sensing ignition system. The system is designed to work with denso spark plugs. If you drove it long enough with the valve timing off (timing gears off a tooth or two), you could have overloaded/overheated your cats which will require them to be replaced. Sorry to hear about the problems & hopefully the dealer can resolve them. Only thing you can do at this point is read the OBDII codes, describe the operating issues as best you can & take it one step at a time.
    G/luck
    Joel
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