Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!
Popular New Cars
Popular Used Sedans
Popular Used SUVs
Popular Used Pickup Trucks
Popular Used Hatchbacks
Popular Used Minivans
Popular Used Coupes
Popular Used Wagons
Comments
i bought this vehicle used and so far had a really nice experience with this ride.
other than the backup lights not working.
if someone can help me i would greatly appreciate it.
If your's or anybody's 4wd is still out action as of April 2008; I have the most likely solution for you.
First, I recommend you have a professional mechanic perform this task unless you are tech savvy enough. But just recently I fixed the "non-operative" 4wd on my 2000 Rodeo. Your problem is definately the 4wd actuator, on the front axle. It is behind a large, black steel plate which must be un-bolted and removed; along with the smaller skid plate. What needs to be done is to remove the actuator (housing cover only) and check/clean any corrosion on the sliding, crescent shaped terminals. Basically, the actuator works perfectly, it is just that lack of use allows corrosion to form on various electrical terminals; and the motor simply isn't receiving enough of the current when you depress the 4wd button.
IMPORTANT - make timing marks everywhere - because you will have to remove a large plastic gear or two. The actuator will not function properly in the end if you do not. Note - do not un-screw motor itself, you must start your timing marks from its long plastic spindle.
Next, after re-assembling the housing, unplug the cable that powers the actuator and clean the metal terminals with a long piece of custom cut eraser (preferably a bit of a white one, cause they leave behind no residue). This can be done with a small sharp knife.
Finally, if you have put everything back together properly; the 4wd will work. You must be moving for it to engage. Turn the wheels as well, to assist the process. Good luck.
I changed the battery of keyless entry, but it cannot activate the door lock any more. It looks like the keyless entry is energized by the new battery for the flashing light when you push the keystrokes.
What shall I do? Thanks a lot!
Thanks
And it'll tell you what it should cost in your zip code.
The owners here will have have suggestions about "extra" repairs/maintenance to consider.
If you have questions on these things, I'll answer what I can, but hopefully this gives you a start.
I have a 1992 Isuzu Rodeo 4WD with the transfer case built into the transmission. There is a fill plug at the top of the transfer case, a drain plug at the bottom of the transfer case, and a level check plug midway up on the passenger side of the transmission. I need to know what model of transmission this is. Any suggestions as to how to figure this out? The model choices are MUA, MSG, BW, and W/V
Thank you!
Jason
Did you ever find out what this is? I have a 99 that just started to do this.
Thanks!
I was wondering if you figured out the problem. I have the same problem as you described above. some told me it was within the engine please let me know?
This seems to be fairly common problem on Isuzu/passports judging from the web post but no one seems to have the solution except for perhaps get a new alternator, not a rebuilt. I believe all was working fine when I first started the engine but i had a vacuum leak that I had to take the upper intake off to fix and now I can't get alternator output or the blower motor to work. The blower doesn't run because the relay does not close. As I understand the circuit the relay gets power through the battery indicator light and if the alternator grounds that wire as it should with the ignition on then there is no power to the relay coil.
Any suggestions?
The alternator will in fact test normal out of the car but it will never work, as the voltage regulator is the problem. This is very common on Isuzu's and Passports as well. I went through 3 alternators until finally I took my Rodeo to an auto electric shop and found out what the problem was.
I don't thnk that there is any other way around it....so Good Luck!
hill999
my truck has 65k miles and needs a serptine belt but other than the above nothing wrong, i don't want to get ripped off .. cause it's obvious i know very little about cars.. if someone has any ideas please email me at
elisabethshane@yahoo.com
i'd sure appreciate any input
is there any kinda lub i can use to break it lose?
I just replaced the fuel level sending unit in my 2001 rodeo, the dealer wanted $640.00 for the entire fuel pump assembly saying that I could not get the sending unit by itself. Lies, I found the sending unit for $40.00 at e-bay, and my thruck is working perfect now. the following links are for the ebay seller and his product. Good Luck!
http://myworld.ebay.com/awnicol25
http://cgi.ebay.com/98-99-00-01-02-RODEO-PASSPORT-FUEL-GAS-SENDING-UNIT-OEM_W0QQ- itemZ180308327411QQihZ008QQcategoryZ42604QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
Top speed only bout 30 mph. If i get out and raise the hood and tap on the throttle body assy. Get back in the car it will start up and run fine. This may happen several times a day or it will go for several weeks with no problem. ANY IDEAS PLS or is there a way to bypass this. Thank you for at least reading this
I have a 98 Isuzu Rodeo LS 3.0. I put the car in reverse moves fine but when i put the car in drive it doesn't move unless i press the "WINTER DRIVE" button then the transmission engages and i am able to move fine but when slow down again to a full stop or slow speed i have to press "WINTER DRIVE" again to get moving otherwise i am stuck
I have no idea what is going on ... could someone please point me in the right direction...thanks
Outside temp was in low 20s. When the truck warmed up, I moved the temp control to hot, vent to defrost, air intake to "recirc", and turned on the A/C to dehumidify. I got exactly the opposite--the windows almost immediately fogged up and I could smell what I think is coolant. Switching to fresh air didn't help. If I keep the temp control at cold, I find that the widows take longer to fog up, but they still do. The A/C seems to be pumping cold air (sort of hard to tell when the outside temp is coldish to begin with!), but I'm not getting the de-humidifying effect. I can hear/feel the A/C clutch engaging.
The fact that I can smell coolant and that the problem is exacerbated when the temp control is at hot makes me think it might be a leak in the heater core--hot, humid air is being blown to the windshield, fogging it. The problem with that idea is that the radiator doesn't seem to be losing coolant and I can't detect any leaks inside or outside the truck.
Is there a drain for the heater core box? Does anyone have any ideas what this could be?
Thanks!
Mike
I have a 1993 Isuzu Rodeo 3.2 I just changed the timing belt idler pulley and the tension pulley, it went great for about 3 weeks then about 4 days ago got this sound like the ones in those videos on page one. The thing already had tapping, but this extra noise is more than I can bear. It still has great power it has not lost a step, when it comes to power,I really hate to have to break this thing down again. But it does sound like those videos, I wonder if they could have sold me a faulty tension pulley and arm. It has 173.000 miles on it and the body is still clean it is not banged up at all, and I really like this SUV. So who knows what it could be, I think it has something to do with the timing belt system, then again I could be wrong. But it does sound like those videos. And as for the tapping the owner before me did not take great care in oil management. I knew I should have changed that spring loaded tensioner. That is the part you all are talking about aren't you ? And it is not the crank, knocking. And when I accelerate to enough rpm's it goes away, but at a traffic light you can really hear it. :mad: :confuse:
I'm having problems with my 1999 Honda passport. I drive my car alot in one day and when I'm going from place to place and having to keep starting and turning off my car it starts to give me a problem. I'll start my car fine and then it will just cut off. The check trans light comes on for just a sec the goes off. I'll have to press the gas and turn the car on to get it to stay on. Sometimes when I get to a stop light it will turn off also, or the car will just rev for a while untill I press the gas or it will turn off again. I can't find anyone who knows whats wrong with my car. Is anyone else having the same problem?
Also, like everyone else my gas light is always on, even if i have a full tank. Has anyone had theres fixed yet? What;s the problem, how much does it cost if it's worth fixing. I can live with the problem I count miles pretty well. LOL Any help thank you!
-Zach