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:-)
This is the first time I left it outside of the garage overnight, and through the nor'easter out here (don't ask, long story). It was covered in ice with an ice packed layer of snow on top. I was able to remove most of it, except the stuff on the roof.
When I got onto the highway to go to work, the PF was shaking/shuddering very noticeably. Not the engine but the body of the car. The shudder then went to the steering wheel as well. It eventually stopped and drove as normal after about 15 minutes of driving. Also, the car was warming up for an hour prior to me driving off (another long story). Any thoughts guys?
Thanks in advance. By the way, it has only 6000 miles on it so I was a little worried since this is a brand new car.
Plus, the shuddering you felt was probably related to ice or snow caught in the inside of the rims, causing the wheels to be out-of-balance. Driving for 15minutes probably caused the ice to melt and fling off the wheels.
Sometimes after driving through thick mud when off-roading, I have the same problem until I wash off the mud.
Performance wise, there's no contest. The SF has only a 181hp engine with a near matching torque figure, and this vehicle (the AWD version) is quite hefty. The PF has 240hp for around the same weight. That's a 33% power advantage! So if you expect to haul anything, travel uphill, or blow the doors off of a 4runner, the PF is the obvious choice!
I just got a '96 and I would not recommend 2wd in snow/ice if you can hold out for a 4*4 model. I'm in Minnesota and have used mine in 4wd a few times already in the past couple weeks. Peter
The vibration as per previous messages.
I'm sure you're ok on both counts.
You mention buying in Canada. Is it possible to lease in Canada through Nissan? If so what about taxes, duties, etc.? I'm interested in SE auto with moonroof, no leather.
Thanks for info.
I'm waiting to for someone to post a side-by-side comparison between the PF and the Santa Fe, so I can update it with that as well. I like the way the Santa Fe's look. Not as good as our Pathys, but still pretty sharp. A little too bulgy in the rear quarter panels, but otherwise a neat looking car.
--Howie
The Canadian dealers can't do a lease to the US. But I have corresponded with a few people who have done other options. First of all though, figure that an SE auto with AWD (yes, the real All-Mode not available in the US on the SE), and sunroof is now selling in Canada for about $25,400. US dealer invoice on this is about $29,400.
One option is just to do a regular loan. You are saving in the range of $4000 so your payments will be significantly less than if you bought here. Yes, more than a lease, but you are gaining some equity each month and will actually own it sometime (or just trade it when you want too).
Another option is a baloon payment. My CU offers this. It works out to be just about the same payments as a lease. Then there is a one-time payment at the end of the term (like 36 months). Benefit is low payments, but you don't have to use the mfg lease.
At delivery in Canada you always end up paying some sales taxes, but the Canadian govt sends them all back to you. At the border, you pay 2.5% duty to the US (I included that cost in the price I mentioned above).
I have both lease and loan payment calculators in my Palm Pilot (can you tell that helping friends on car purchases is a "hobby" of mine?). Let me know if you want me to run some general numbers. Or just email me and I can give you some contacts and more info on Canada.
-Jon
What is the scoop on the "State Use Tax" in Washington? A buddy of mine is certain that I would have to pay it in addition to the Washington state sales tax. That effectively would reduce the incentive to purchase a Pathy SE in Vancouver.
Brad
I'm out here in the bluegrass state, KY! I'm very
impressed with the 01 SE PF and am seriously
considering purchasing one with leather.
Have you any advice or tips on how I can lower
the sticker price. Are there any places near
hear that have a good reputation for selling
honestly and with modest markups?
Out of all the SUV's in it's class, the PF comes
up winning. Thank You!
So you end up even. Does not reduce the incentive to buy in Canada.
-Jon
I just purchased a 2001 XE Pathfinder, and note the blue chip on the ignition key. I was advised by the dealer that insertion of the incorrect key in the ignition will result in the vehicle not being able to start, by virtue of the 'immobilizer' feature. (Should I get a key cut to work the door lock and accidently insert that key in the ignition, it would not start, and would need to be towed to the dealer for re-programming of the ignition key!)
My old Pathfinder had a double-cut iginition key, meaning that the teeth on the key could be inserted in the ignition one of two ways. The ignition key on the 2001 only has the blue chip on one part of the key, and I have always inserted the key with the blue chip towards the dashboard, but wonder if it would work with the chip away from the dashboard. I could not find an answer in the owners manual, so am appealing to the forum.
Thanks
By the way, enjoying the major increase in performance over my 95 Pathfinder!
You put the key in the ignition and when you turn it, there is a module in your dash area that sends out a strong electronic field that temporarily powers the chip. The chip then sends back a code to the module which then lets the ignition start, etc.
It doesn't matter which way you put the key in, the chip is being powered through induction. For example, on my Lexus, you get an emergency "wallet" key. It is a thick credit card that holds a simple metal key. You take the key out of the credit card and insert it into the ignition (the key also obviously unlocks the doors). You then place the credit card near the dash while you turn the key. It definitely keeps you from being embarassed and calling the spouse.
"...it would not start, and would need to be towed to the dealer for re-programming of the ignition key!"
I find this statement highly suspect. The only thing that should happen if you insert a correct metal key without the chip is that the engine will not start. I'm not 100% sure (since every system is different), but I find it highly unlikely this would happen.
Hope this helps,
TC
I did exactly what you described in #1616. I seem to always need something out of the locked glove compartment while the car is running. So I had a key cut without the blue chip to be used to unlock the glove compartment during this time. Right after I got it i figured i would test it to see if it would start the car or not. I put it in the ignition and it did nothing as per teh immobilizer feature design. HOWEVER, when I put the normal key with the blue chip in to start the vehicle it also did not work!! Slightly panicked as to what I may have just done, I waited about 1 minute and it then tried again. It worked with no problem. I repeated this process again to be sure I understood what just happened and why. (i am an engineer). I leave this key in the cockpit since it cannot be used to start the vehicle. It does unlock the doors.
Your posting is refreshing. A lot of people make the purchase and post a question to others asking how well they did.
If you do not enjoy the haggling process, check into www.checkbook.com. They are a non profit service that will contact dealers in your area and set up a competitive bid scenario. Can not speak for them as I have never used their service.
You mentioned that you are looking at an SE with leather. You might want to upgrade to an LE. The pricing of the SE with the leather/sunroof options is just a few hundred below an LE that has leather/sunroof as standard. In addition, the LE has the AWD.
Nissan's factory incentives expired in 2/01. However, with this economy you should be able to find a dealer that will sell at a few hundred above dealer invoice.
Based on your comments, it would appear that the cut key would not start the vehicle, but after waiting a minute or so, my original coded key would work. I think I have more faith in this forum than the word of the dealer.
Thanks again
Woody
With non-chipped key in hand, I thought "Are they telling the truth about the chip?" I was parked at the dealer, so I tried it.
It cranked, but didn't catch. They aren't lying-it doesn't work at all! OK lesson learned.
I then put if the chipped key and cranked...
UH OH, it didn't work either. After trying a couple of more times without success, the salesperson who had sold me the car strolled over. He said it was probably flooded. (I didn't tell him I had tried the other key) He had me crank it a few more time without success playing with the accelerator.
I thought my curiosity had gotten me into big trouble!
He then told me to pull the fuse for the fuel pump, (under the change holder, near the hood release) and give it a few cranks with the fuse removed.
I put the fuse back in, inserted the real key and va-voom it fired right up.
Wheeeew, how would I have explained my stupidity to my wife?
Here's what happened:
As soon as a key (any key) is inserted into the cylinder and turned past the lock, the computer tells the fuel management system to prime the engine by squrting a a bit a gasoline into the ignition chambers.
Under normal circumstances (read using correct key) the engine gets a spark and promptly catches, burning up any excess fuel.
When you use a non-chipped key, the computer doesent send a spark, so the excess fuel stays in the chamber. Everytime you try and crank it, it squirts in a little bit of new fuel, flooding the engine.
By removing the fuse, and cranking with the good key, you are getting spark, but new fuel is not being sent to the engine. So after a few cranks you burn the excess fuel out of the chambers.
When you put the fuse back in, and use the correct key, you have both pieces of the puzzle together again and it works as it should.
My sales guy told me this should work in any flooding instance and it makes sense when you think about it.
hope this may help someone in the future
Brian
Don
Hey butterflymom, I'm in Louisville. What part of KY are you in? I will hopefully be purchasing a 01 LE this month & have been dealing with Neil Huffman Nissan, but we haven't talked numbers yet so that may change. Let me know if you have any luck with dealers & I'll do the same.
Thanks
Also, what brand, type, & size of tire comes on the 2001 4x4 PF LE?
I have no clue as to your other problem...are your 4WD dash lights showing correctly what mode you're in? Hopefully someone else has some info for you.
In regards to the noise when switching between the modes, mine has a very slight "thump" if at all. As with bogged down sensation with the wheel, I'm not sure what to say. Other thoughts out there?
Bob
S.Fl
milgrad@bellatlantic.net
2001 Nissan Pathfinder SE 4X4
Automatic
Floor Mats
In-Cabin Micro Filter
Body Color Side Molding
With Delivery, Ad fees, Destination
$27,656
Is this a good deal?
read the FAQ and get better informed on the LE and SE choices. The O1 PF LE
sahara beige was listed for 32,789 here in Lexington.
Any Idea what Environmental Protection (198$), and Interior Protection (198$) are for?
Also added was 99$ for pinstriping, I'm sure!
Anyway, thanks again, will let you know what I come up with.
Once you have the spare fob you should be able to go back to the dealer to have it reprogrammed. But I can't be 100% sure whether it is the fob or the car that has to be reprogrammed, so you raise a good point. Why not just call your dealer and ask???
Note that the remote fob and the actual key are two separate things. The remote locks/unlocks the vehicle and is part of the alarm system. The key is part of the immobilizer system. They are programmed independently. Only the dealer can program additional keys. You or the dealer can program additional remotes. Here's how to do it (instructions for 2001; may be the same for other years):
1) Get in vehicle and close all doors.
2) Insert and remove key from ignition more than 6 times within 10 seconds (hazard lights will flash twice).
3) Insert key again and turn to ACC position.
4) Push any button on new remote once (hazard lights will flash twice). At this time the oldest code is erased and the new code is entered.
5) To program additional remotes (maximum of four), lock the driver's side door (unlock first if it's locked) with the LH door switch, and then go to step 4.,
6) Open driver's side door
-Jon
But everything I read about the SF says it's a great vehicle and a good value. In the Car and Driver "teeny SUV" article last month (Mar) it finished 6th of 11 with the pluses listed as nice powertrain, good ride, lots of room, and value. But it was being compared against the CR-V, RAV4, Sportage, Cherokee, and Xterra among others.
So (being out of time this week) I'll leave this comparison as "an exercise for the student". But if the difference is only a few thousand it would be very hard to convince me it was a better value than the Path. If it's a huge difference, it just might be the ticket.
-Jon
From the dictionary:
1. A short chain or ribbon attached to a pocket watch and worn hanging in front of the vest or waist.
2. An ornament or seal attached to such a chain or ribbon.
Captain Ron. . .
ron.chase@internetmachines.com
Well, I'll be glad I have 4WD tonite...heading upstate NY where there's been a couple of feet of snow this past week and I hear it's still snowing now.
I have the 2001 Path shop manual on CD. Don't know of another source. But it's a very complete set. Over 2500 pages in .pdf format. Email me if you'd like to discuss or have questions.
-Jon
jonlofquist@aol.com
Thanks,
Dano
Thanks for you patience.
Steve
Tomorrow I'll go to the lake parking lot and do some testing of AWD & 4WD in the really deep stuff :-).
Tom