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Comments
waxes,ect. Lexol makes several products for leather. Steve
-Kelly
Of course there is NO comparison but I traded in a 1997 Acura 1.6EL (similar to Honda Civic). My gas costs are probably 2.5 to 3 times higher now with the PF.
Having said all that, I do enjoy every mile I put on the PF.
I'm planning on purchasing a PF in Ottawa too. Your info is very helpful. I was wondering which dealer you went to and how your service was? I am in MA and our RMV requires a statement of origin, they say the new vehicle info statement is not acceptable. Which document did you get? Can you recommend a sales person? What bank did you use?
Do you know how much the invoice is on the Canadian PF? Which Model did you buy? Was it worth the savings? Lastly, how long did the transaction take? Sorry so many questions, but I really want to get all the details taken care of before I go.
Thanks,
Hattrick16
I will admit the PF feels a lot like a car. So nice in fact, that you can often forget it is a truck. Until you stop to fill up the gas tank... Then I am reminded I am driving a truck.
The PF fuel economy is as good as all the other SUVs in the mid size class (Explorer, Grand Cherokee, 4Runner, etc.). If you want better gas mileage you have to depart from this class and buy something lighter or less "utility," Like a CUV (car based SUV) like the Escape/Tribute, RX300, or such. You'll sacrifice off-road capability and towing capacity, but gas mileage will be better. If I wasn't towing a camper or going off-road periodically, I would have bought something lighter myself...
Bottom Line: There is nothing unusual about the fuel economy of the Pathfinder. They compare favorably to all other SUV in this class. They do not compare favorably to economy cars.
On a couple of topics that have been kicked around...
I agree with the previous poster that the Pathfinder has fuel mileage commensurate with the type of vehicle that it is... I'd like to add that the single most influential factor to the mileage you get on one particular tank is the way you drive. When tooling around the canyons of Malibu looking at houses (read: lots of stops, turn arounds, idling in front of multi-million dollar houses wondering what the heck I'M doing here?) I got the worst mileage thus far: 14.88 for that tank. When I think I'm doing about my average driving, commuting, etc...I get between 16-18mpg. Some of my best mileage figures came in the first few days of owning the Pathfinder...I drove it from NH to CA. I was seeing 19.5 to 21! I could almost predict the figures at the pump just by how lead-footed I got on the freeway over the last 5 hours. So, for the most part, the numbers are mostly influenced by your right foot and real-world numbers only get accurate once you average many tanks. Even then it's more of a "about 16-18, depending on driving." I don't think a "mileage increased from 15.4 to 15.9 when I switched to brand X" claims can be backed up.
For what it's worth, my friend has a Durango (and loves it) and the BEST tank he's had was 15mpg. His mileage since he purchased it 13,000 miles ago...averaging ALL tanks is under 12mpg. Ug. I'm thrilled with what I'm getting! I don't even tell him the mileage I'm getting anymore...I feel bad.
Synthetics...I switched to Mobil 1 at 1,200 miles (as soon as I hit Florida) when I did the first oil and filter change. I'm now at 8,500 miles and about to perform the 4th change with synthetic. I feel it's difficult, if not impossible to determine an mpg change when switching due to all the variables...hills, lead-foot, traffic, towing, temperature, off-roading, weight, headwinds, etc... You could just as easily attribute a perceived mileage change to sheer chance of conditions.
I do feel strongly about using Mobil 1 as every vehicle I've had in the last 5 years was switched as soon as I got it. Motorcycles, SUVs, sports cars, turbos, non-turbos...The guy I bought my Prelude from (a 60 year old retired pilot), said that he put Mobil synthetic in his own plane and it instantly shows a 20 degree drop in head temperature.
Oh, re-Zaino'd the Pathfinder on Saturday...Yow!
Keep up the great comments!
Captain Ron
2001 LE, Burnt Cherry, Leather, NAV, LSD, Tow...
Captain Ron. . .
up like your friends aircraft engine. Steve
I used bank of Montreal via Harries bank of USA.(212)7152600. They are the best.
Mine is Black SE 5speed. Options: wheel locks and sunroof deflector. You don't need these options but I recommend them as a start. About CAN$35700.00 with the options.(CAN$45+$120) That's the cost of the options.
As soon as you mention my name, Steve will give you a good price. Just tell him I sent you.
Yes it worth the trip and about $3000 to $4000 in savings alone. but you have put up with those guys and gals at DMV.
You must first read Jon lofquist detailed instruction about buying in Canada.
This is an adventure of a life time, so take your time and do your homework first before you contact the dealer.
full5.
Purchased SE, auto, cloth, no options except free wheel locks for $36,428 plus $972 freight plus the assortment of taxes and driving permit. Hope this is some help.
I have about the same results as you...
19,000 miles on my 1992 Yamaha FJ1200
165,000 miles on a 1988 Honda CRX Si
9,000 miles on my 2001 Pathfinder LE
52,000 miles on my 1992 Honda Prelude
139,000 miles on a 1991 Mitsubishi 3000GT-VR4 (twin turbo)
All using Mobil1 with no oil consumption except the 3000GT. The turbo bearings were blowing oil from about 100,000 miles on.
Also...two years ago, my friend bought a new 1999 Porsche Carrera 4 ($94,000 by the way...) and it comes straight from the factory with Mobil1. That upped my comfort level. I presume they switched with the new water-cooled engine in 1999.
I'm certain that there are cases where someone had terrible luck with one product or another. Unfortunately, those are the ones we're most likely to hear about. I've been happy with the synthetics and will likely stick with them even if I get a "but Joe Schmuckatelli had a rod go at 30k when using...." type of response...
Captain Ron. . .
I got my 01 SE in March, saved $5000 over the best deal here in Seattle, including duty, and only got charged duty on the base amount. The whole process was easier than purchasing in the U.S., it just took more time. And as others pointed out, it was a great adventure!
If one applies an exchange rate of 1.55,
$37,000 Cdn = $23,870 U.S. !!!
What oil filter do you recommend and use?
Where is the best place to purchase oil filter -- AutoZone, PepBoys?
Also, is it hard to change the oil?
This will be the first time that I will change the oil on any vehicle (my lawn mower does not count). Details would be most welcome. Thanks.
http://24.7.157.64/Home.html
I just traded my 1990 Nissan Maxima SE 5 spd. with 175k miles for a PF. I spent 18 mos. looking at everything under the sun...nothing compred to Nissan's design and quality in this price range. I like to shift my own gears, so that criteria alone eliminated most contenders.
It seems America has become an "Automatic" nation. I looked at the new Explorer for the helluvit...can't believe anyone would drop 35k on one of those...the plastic on my kid's Big Wheels is better quality stuff!! Anyways, my Maxima NEVER had a problem in its 11 years of service...only changed the oil and tires - what an incredible car. Almost went for a new SE
5 spd., but wanted the 4WD and hatchback. So the PF became the obvious choice.
I could not be happier with my decision. This truck is an absolute blast to drive, and it looks better and brawnier every day. I have a Green SE with grey cloth, also LSD, Sunroof Pkg. Micro, BSM, Class lll Hitch, ...basically it's loaded. I wish Nissan had offered leather on the 5 spds., also wish for backlit steering wheel controls, more console storage, remote hatch window release. My wife has a 2000 Maxima GLE - I'm also envious of her heated seats. Despite this wish list, the PF is the best blend of power, luxury, and good looks I've ever owned.
I tip my hat to Nissan, as I really do believe they make a wonderful and superior product.
I've had my PF two weeks, and alreday racked up 1,900 miles....loved every one of them.
Thanks to allof you who have posted your satisfaction over the last year...you helped steer me toward one of the best purchases anyonecould make. First oil change and Zaino coming up this weekend. Happy motoring and thanks again.
Do aircraft engines have pistons,rings,valves,ect. Can you say pistons,rings,ect.??
Sure you can???
I got my 01 SE in March, saved $5000 over the best deal here in Seattle, including duty, and only got charged duty on the base amount. The whole process was easier than purchasing in the U.S., it just took more time. And as others pointed out, it was a great adventure! <<
Yes, I'm still out here! Been away for a few days to a car show with my other car (Merkur XR4Ti). Anyone can feel free to email me for lots more info on the US to Canada buying experience. I'm always glad to help (and enjoy seeing people save lots of cash).
I see a couple things have come up in the last few days....
Bob, bummer on the duty on the tax. Customs is not at all consistant on this. At the Vancouver/Seattle crossing it seems they always charge it. At Niagara Falls/Buffalo, they don't. Where I went through (Sault Saint Marie, MI) they didn't even charge me duty on the freight! And they were unbelieveably pleasant too! Anyway, it should have cost you less than an extra $100.
gladiator - Set your price with the dealer on the phone, then get a faxed contract. No one has told me they have had a problem with the Vancouver or Toronto dealers this way. It will show all the charges. Since you would go to Vancouver, figure you will pay the duty on the tax - about $50 extra in your case. For exchange rates and companies, see the info sheet I sent. Accu-rate (as Bob mentioned) is now turning out to be the best.
-Jon
Neil
I know I'll lose the immobilizer system, but do I go to the dealership to purchase extra chip to attach it to the keyhole to deactivate the immobilizer system..
The price the dealer in Vancouver (environs) offers is the price. It will be a discount from Canadian retail consistent with posts you have seen on pricing in Canada in here. Remember you are typically going to be working with the manager, not a salesman, so you need to know exactly what you want and be prepared to approve or not when he presents the deal. Know what you want and be prepared to act and it will go smoothly.
The sales agreement has everything listed out - base, options, freight, etc. When you get the quote it will literally be "write these numbers down, A, B, C, D. now add them. That's the price." You will recognize A as the base, B as options, C as freight, etc. There are very few options on Canadian models. Research http://www.nissan.ca to internalize the diffs between US and Canada options.
Jon covered the Duty question.
DMV is straightforward. Like any new or just-brought-in-the-state car, you have to go to the Inspection Station first, then to DMV. The NVIS may generate a question but a phone call or check with the manager should easily address it. They expect to see a C-of-O but NVIS is what you get in Canada, period.
Nothing required to prove the exchange rate. Both Customs and DMV just used CAN$1 = US$.65 and that was close enough for me. The difference was only a few bucks and not worth arguing with a bureaucrat who's just trying to get you processed.
I converted currency in Canada at a small shop recommended by the Nissan dealer. I shopped around a ton, and this shop had the best rate, and it was totally hassle free. You just get a bank draft in US$ for the right amount, stop in at their office, and they give you a bank draft in CAN$ for the correct amount in exchange. Simple.
Other notes:
Make an appointment to pick up the vehicle and be on time. Remember you're working with the manager, who is a busy and popular person.
Follow Jon's instruction sheet to the letter.
For me, it took about 8 weeks to get the GST refund.
Tacoma Speedometer is one of a few shops in Seattle area you can get the speedometer swapped.
The US Customs people said they're telling all their friends to buy their cars in Canada and that they don't understand why anyone buys in the States. With apologies to sales professionals in the US, that was quite an endorsement.
Enjoy!
I had spent some time trying to find a source for genuine Nissan parts and accessories in the US, which shipped to Canada. Some accessories, such as body side moldings are unavailable at Canadian dealers. I found that <http://www.nissanparts.cc> based in Washington state would ship to Canada. I have now received and installed my moldings. I have no interest in this company, but found that they would deliver the goods, and they lived up to their promise.
>Planning to do the oil change on the PF this >weekend and converting to Mobil 1. What oil >filter do you recommend and use?
I use the factory Nissan filters. Sorry, I don't have the part number handy, but I'm sure it's in the FAQ somewhere. I bought the first batch of filters at a Nissan dealer in Lakeland, FL and they gave me a discount for buying three at a time. I'm about to do the 4th change and I'll see what my local dealer can do.
>Where is the best place to purchase oil filter -->AutoZone, PepBoys?
See above...For the most part, once you settle on a filter type...some like Fram, some like Purolator, some like...Call around if you're interested in the best pricing. Unless I'm buying a big ticket item...or a large quantity of small ticket items, I don't worry too much about saving 10% here or there...typically, my free time (on a sunny California Saturday) is worth more and will buy wherever it's convenient.
>Also, is it hard to change the oil?
It's very easy...and you can derive a great amount of satisfaction from knowing that it's done right...I ONCE took my old CRX to Jiffy Lube and they swapped the oil plug with a new one that wasn't threaded the same as the factory one. Two trips back and it just would have been easier to do myself.
>This will be the first time that I will change >the oil on any vehicle (my lawn mower does not >count). Details would be most welcome. Thanks.
Okay, here's the procedure.
* Run the engine for about 3 minutes to warm up the oil so it will drain better
* Slide yourself under the front end with a socket wrench and undo the 10 or so small bolts holding the big plastic guard thingie on.
* Remove the one last plastic fastener (center-front) and pull the big plastic guard off your truck. This should expose the "soft white underbelly" of your engine.
* Slide an oil drain pan under the oil drain plug and remove the plug.
* Remove the oil filler cap in the engine compartment to help the drain process...Let it drain until the flow is but a drip...
* Remove the oil filter...you may need to use a wrench for the first time. I used one of those universal side-mounted strap types that goes in your socket wrench and had great luck breaking it free. You'll get oil spilling out of the filter, so get a pan under there.
* Let all that drain...Maybe go get another beer.
* Wipe off the spot on the frame where the oil runs down under the filter (pretty cool).
* Carefully wipe the filter seating area with a clean rag as well as the oil drain plug and the plug area.
* Apply a film of fresh oil to the o-ring on a new filter and screw it into place. Make it snug by hand...wrenching it on isn't needed and the next time you can take it off by hand.
* re-install the drain plug
* Re-fill the engine with fresh Mobil1 (I believe the spec was 5 1/4 quarts of the slippery stuff.
* Replace the Oil filler cap
* Replace the big plastic guard thingie under the front end the opposite way you removed it.
* Sit back, relax and think pleasant thoughts.
That's about it! You're going to want to have a few rags handy to mop up drips here and there... Also, an oil change still leaves behind 5-15% of the old oil. Not a huge concern, but you won't be near 100% synthetic until a few more changes.
I hope this helps!
Captain Ron. . .
There is also a fair amount of support for the non-use of synthetics in aircooled engines for their lack of ability to dissipate heat like the dino oils.
Now, Mobil pulled their first aviation formula off the shelf, reformulated their blend and the problem no longer exists.
Given that I'm not concerned about falling out of the sky, I'm running a 2001 water-cooled motor and have had great success in the past, I'm comfortable with my choice of using Mobil1. In my digging, I also found that other makes and models besides Porsche come from the factory with Mobil1. Among them are Aston Martin, Callaway, Mercedes-Benz, Corvette and Viper.
Captain Ron. . .
BTW, I wish we can all just stick to the subject matter, ie Pathfinder, and not have to resort to name calling.
Thanks
Let's keep on Pathfinding!!
I know the dealer in Toronto that everyone has bought from (including baddestbob1last week) will issue an Ontario registration (with your name listed as the owner of course) instead of the NVIS. Ontario has a way of giving this even though you are not paying the registration fees. Minnesota (my state) took this without even blinking. In Vancouver the dealer always gives an NVIS, but only a couple people have had troubles convincing their DMV that this was fine.
-Jon
Thanks,
wep2
Any thoughts?
Thanks.