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I currently have a 2001PF-LE and live in the MD area. I called NISSAN WEST and they gave me a quote of $65 for oil/filter and tire rotation and that it would take 1-1.5 hours. Is that a rip off or what? Has anyone had their car serviced at Nissan West in baltimore MD? Any pros/cons to this place?
Any thoughts on service depts of Tischer, VOB, and Herb Gordan Nissan Dealerships in MD???
Would anybody be able to give me their experience on a 7500 scheduled maintenance? Thanks for your help/advice.
pfwun
-Jon
Thanks
PFWannaBe
The subaru, with AWD, is really great in snow and its nice that you never have to worry about switching between snow and dry pavement. As good as the Outback is, the PF is even better. Besides having the AWD, if I choose, I can switch to 4WD if the snow is really deep or we're on the steep. I suppose the cutoff where the PF's advantage shows is probably around 8-10" on an uphill...not sure, of course, since I've never done a side by side. But I've driven both in snow quite a bit. I've actually thought of trying that when we have both vehicles up there (obviously, we normally take only one :-)).
Hope this helps.
Tom
Tom
With my '01 LE 4x4, I frequently tow a 3400 lb. boat on a 900 lb. trailer. You definitely know that you are pulling 4300 lbs. behind you, but the 3.5L PF engine seems to handle it just as well as my former Grand Cherokee with the 5.2L V8.
The trailer has surge brakes, so braking is not much of an issue, although you need to allow for longer braking distances as in any towing situation. I have a twin axle trailer, and this seems to make for less sway when towing at highway speeds, although it is more difficult to make turns when backing up.
Since the V6 does not make as much low end torque as the much larger displacement V8 did, the engine seems to be happiest if you hold it in a lower gear keeping the RPM in the 2500-3000 range. If you let the trans do the shifting itself, you will often find your RPM down around 2000, and I can sense that the engine is "lugging" a bit. An added benefit of a lower gear is that the higher torque at the higher engine speed and less shifting will keep your transmission running cooler, and any trans shop will tell you that heat is the biggest enemy of a transmission. I don't have an aftermarket trans cooler.
I occasionally tow on some steep hills, and have noticed that the engine coolant gauge does not seem to rise at all even on a hot day. Hopefully this is a good sign! This is different than my experience with the Jeep where I would often see the temp gauge increase 20 or 30 degrees.
Regarding highway towing, I have seen many recommendations (especially in Trailer Boats magazine) not to use overdrive when towing. At 65 or 70 MPH the PF seems to be fine in overdrive so long as you as you are on a relatively flat stretch of road or a downgrade. At that highway speed the engine speed is sufficient even in overdrive. At a speed of 50-55 MPH, you will likely want to hold it out of overdrive, however. The most important thing to avoid is having the trans shifting frequently in and out of overdrive because the shifting produces heat.
My boat and trailer has a tonque weight of about 250 lbs. Compared to most SUV's, the PF has a relatively soft suspension, and I find the tonque weight significantly lowers the rear of the vehicle. I have purchased an Air Lift kit, but have not yet installed it. Anyone have any experience or recommendations for installing an Airlift kit on a PF?
I currently tow with a tacoma V6 which does fine but gets 65mph on the highway out of OD. In OD it lugs the engine too much. I believe a trans cooler is typically recommended for any towing condition. The salesman told me the SE has a beefier suspension than the XE or LE. I have not found this documented anywhere. Is it true or is he just a salesman?
Thanks again
LesG
I need info on wires... under dash-board of driver-side. Like alarm wires.... HELP ME OUT PLEASE>........e-mail me with the listing... mr.q@onebox.com
The purchase agreement lists the sales price of $36,700 in Canadian funds. There was no breakdown for the other charges. This price included the freight, sunroof wind deflector ($150), air conditioner charge, everything. Then he applied the GST of 7%. I'll get the gst back.
Brad
I've noticed that the "what I've been saying" section of the member profile has been outdated lately. Instead of showing your last 4 posts (as it has been since it started, I believe) it now points to very old posts (maybe your first ones?)
Is this going to be fixed?
thanks,
Tom
Steve
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Josh
First of all, I have been driving a 94 Stage III Nissan 300ZX NA for the past two years. Just so you know where I am coming from.
The interior was very nice. The seat was much higher up than in my car, and I had it in the lowest position. I am a big guy, 6'4" 250 LBS, and I really didn't have any problems with legroom or head room. But I am used to driving small type cars. I noticed that I had about 2-3 inches of room between my head and the sun roof. Plenty of room for me, as long as I don't take any big bumps.
All of the PF's on the lot I went to had window stickers that said "LE 4WD". But, inside it had a switch for "2H, AUTO, 4H, 4L", so I'm assuming that this is for AWD.
The ride was very comfortable. I didn't think it had a truck like ride at all. Much smoother than my 300ZX.
The power didn't "wow" me. I never felt like I was waiting for it to get going, but it doesn't have zoom like my Z. But, if I just wanted something fast, I'd keep my car.
I thought that the back seats looked plenty big enough, even with my drivers seat all the way back.
I didn't notice any shimmy on the highway. It had a very very slight vibration in the steering wheel at highway speeds, but nothing I would worry about.
Well, I think I've decided on the PF. I'll probably look to purchase in the fall, as my 300ZX is too good of a summer car to get rid of now
PYRENUS
How bright is the yellow light? I don't want the yellow fog light color just for style, I want it also to be functional. How bright is it and can you see the road with it on? How easy is it to change?
Did you take a look at the bottom of the gas pedal yet? I don't think it is a switch. It's elevated about 2 inches from the floor at the bottom of the gas pedal.
The plastic thing under the pedal that you're asking about is probably just there for positioning the pedal.
If anyone has additional towing experiences, I would like to hear them.
Thanks
LesG
http://dean.thayer.net/off-road/upgrades/airlift/airlift.htm
This sort of valve is found on numerous cars and trucks today. It's been around for a while...my '77 VW Rabbit had one. Based on the position of the rear suspension, it senses the amount of load on the rear axle. The heavier the load it senses, the the harder the rear brakes are applied versus the front brakes. It's designed to help prevent the rear brakes from locking in a light load situation (such as an empty pickup truck), and also utilize the rear brakes to a higher degree if the rear of the vehicle is loaded, creating more correctly proportioned braking front versus rear. In a towing situation, assuming a significant tongue load (and a proportionally lighter load on the front axle), I assume it would tend to keep the front brakes from locking by causing the rear brakes to do more of the work.
The instructions and photos on your website are impressive, and they will definitely assist me in doing the installation! What year PF did you install the Airlift kit on? (I'm wondering if my '01 will be any different). Thanks for taking the time to help fellow PFer's!
Should I be concerned about this? When I'm towing, the tonque weight of the trailer compresses the rear suspension, causing the brake proportioning valve to increase the proportion of the braking done by the rear brakes. But the Aiflift kit will "decompress" the rear suspension. Will this "fool" the brake proportioning valve into thinking that there is less load on the rear axle then there really is, causing the wrong propotioning between the front and rear brakes? Anyone have any thoughts or experience on this?
As for the load sensing valve, that's a good point that I hadn't considered before. After the kit is installed, I guess you could experiment with the way it handles... tow with the airsprings at minimum PSI (so the rear end sags) and tow with them inflated (so that the rear end doesn't sag [as much]) and compare the ride.
My feeling is that since your trailer has its own brakes, it won't be a major issue for towing your boat.
The Philips AllWeather bulbs are very functional. Didn't really want them for style either... actually one of the things I like is that the fog lights themselves look white (not too tacky). It illuminates the road as well as the factory bulb, just in a different light. Their advantage is in rain, snow, fog, dust, etc. White light is reflected back at the driver by these conditions while yellow does not. Very easy to change & the manual shows how to do this with pictures on 8-31. Basically you pry the black plastic next to the fog light off with a screw driver (might want to cover the tip with cloth so you don't scratch anything). This will reveal the two philips screws holding the fog light lense on. Remove these to get to the bulb. The bulb is held in by a small metal ring & has a lead wire from it that plugs in a socket. Just reverse the process to install the new one. You may want to wear latex gloves because the oils on your skin can damage the bulbs.
Just looked under the gas pedal. If you feel on the back side of the gas pedal itself the entire thing is a switch. With the vehicle off & in a quiet area press on the back of the pedal with your hand & you'll hear a click. When you press the pedal all the way down the back of the pedal (the switch) presses against the black plastic thing. This tells the engine management computer to downshift to give MORE power, not to slow you down. SMITHMD was right about the speed limiting though. Later...
concerned about locking up. The ABS will prevent that any way.
thanks for the reply!
I see a lot of talk mentioning authorized service manuals (on CD rom) and I'm wondering if anyone would be able to give me more info on where and what they paid for it. Jon had written me that he had spent $210 for it but didn't mention if that was purchased from the dealer or not.
(By the way, I need to send out my appreciation and thanks to Jon for helping me work out a Canada deal and for answering all of my questions and concerns.)
Does anyone kow if this affects the air temperature of the AC when the recirculation selector is on off. It seems my AC takes a long time to cool off the vehicle and the air is not really that cold. I'm taking it in for my 1K check-up and just wanted to know.
$210 is what they charge.
Your truck will cool down more quickly with the A/C if you will roll down your windows for just a minute or so right when you start the engine and start moving. That'll let the hot air (relative to the outside temp) out of the vehicle and allow the A/C to get some air moving through the system. Then roll up the windows and turn on the recirc for a little while.
Being from Central Texas, I might almost consider myself an expert on this subject!
Dano