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Nissan Pathfinder

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Comments

  • foghorn48foghorn48 Member Posts: 65
    Anytime the center differential is locked and you drive on dry pavement you will incur damage to the drive train and tires. This is, believe it or not, b/c the front and rear wheels turn at slightly different speeds even in a straight line. The drag caused by the rear is enough to do damage. If the center diff is not locked this allows the front and rear difference to be compensated for and you can drive on pavement.
  • dlundgrendlundgren Member Posts: 17
    My 2002 SE has the usual zingy looking roof rack that I like a lot; but I notice the black plastic front wind deflector takes a lot of the sky away through the sunroof. Does anyone make (and if they don't they should) a translucent replacement for this like the front air deflectors? You'd keep the design but be able to improve the view out the top...
  • xplorx4xplorx4 Member Posts: 621
    For info on how 4x4 systems and differentials work, visit http://www.howstuffworks.com/four-wheel-drive4.htm.

    Basically, each wheel rotates at a different speed. That also means that the front driveshaft and rear driveshaft rotate at different speeds, usually during turns. (That's why you need a center diff.) Typically a high-traction surface does not allow the wheels to slip easily and puts a lot of stress on the drivetrain.

    Foghorn- the Pathfinder's 4WD mechanism has 4 modes:

    2WD- center diff disengaged. All torque sent to rear driveshaft
    AWD- center diff engaged. Torque is sent to the front driveshaft as rear slippage is detected
    4HI- center diff locked. Front and rear rotate toegether.
    4LO- same as 4HI but with a 2.5:1 gear reduction
    (AWD is for use in snow, and for better handling, much like AWD passenger cars, while 4HI is a more heavy-duty mode.)
  • couimetcouimet Member Posts: 130
    How about moving the front bar back behind the moonroof?
  • dlundgrendlundgren Member Posts: 17
    No, it's not the bar, it's the plastic fairing at the leading edge of the rack that knocks down the wind noise.
  • couimetcouimet Member Posts: 130
    Oh ... I think I've read that US 2002 SE's get a Xterra-like roof rack. Is that right? I haven't seen one of those ...
  • dlundgrendlundgren Member Posts: 17
    I didn't realize they were different up your way. Yes, the SE has an anodized gray rack very much like the Xterra's, with a black plastic fairing in front and a "PATHFINDER" logo along the side rails. Very nice looking, gives the rig a clearly different attitude than the LE. Equally functional, and the fairing really does a job on wind noise - coming down from Lake Placid the other day we had the roof open at 75mph on the Northway and could conduct conversation perfectly well, which I could never have done in any of my past Accords.
  • stockstimingstockstiming Member Posts: 27
    Sorry if this might have already come up but I've been away from the board for a while.

    I had the compressor installed with the air bags and found the system lost pressure. The installer said it was the compressor that was leaking, so I called Air Lift and they're sending out a 1-way valve that I'll install in the air line outside the compressor. We'll see how that works.
  • gkatz1gkatz1 Member Posts: 296
    Yes, the 02 roof rack is more like the Xterra, and in my opinion it's too bad. I have an 01, and replaced the OEM rack with a Thule unit which is more versitile. Not that you can't mount things on the new one, but you'll probably need adapters.
  • tlj727tlj727 Member Posts: 2
    Can anyone recommend a soft cargo carrier that can keep my cargo dry? Has anyone used the roadwarrior with a tarp? Any recommendations will be greatly appreciated.
  • ralsidewinderralsidewinder Member Posts: 9
    Ahh...a topic I've obsessed over. dlundgren, I've not heard of a clear draft shield for the 02 SE. Removing it may be the closest option.

    As for accessories for the rack, they are WAY limited, but do exist. Both Thule and Yakima make different options. It pays to shop around.

    -a.
  • xplorx4xplorx4 Member Posts: 621
    You guys with the SE roof rack and wind deflector should take a look at this site to see what an Xterra owner did to his rack to make the deflector translucent.

    http://www.xterra4x4.com/mods/Owners/Thors/seethrough.html

    Here's another link :
    http://ultra.litpixel.com:85/pictures/Truck_Tour/roof_gadgets.html
  • dzartmandzartman Member Posts: 112
    I am having problems with my 4wd.

    it sounds like the hubs are grinding after the car has been put into reverse then into drive. The grinding continues until a series of ugly grinds and then somehow it sounds as if they lock into the correct position, then the grinding sounds stops and I can resume normal driving..

    I have found upon hearing the noise, if I put the car into 4wd the grinding will halt, but then I have to pull over and backup and do the release ritual of getting the car out of 4wd.

    Has anyone experienced this problem and what are the preventive measures to keep this from happening? because I rarely use the 4wd, maybe 3 times a year and I follow all the procedures pertaining to the use of the 4wd. Plus it is an expensive as hell repair and this is the second time this has happened.

    thanks all!
  • xplorx4xplorx4 Member Posts: 621
    Sounds like your automatic hubs are 'sticking'. Since you use 4WD so infrequently, you should make sure you shift into 4WD at least once a month, even just for a few hundred feet (in a straight line). This will keep the 4WD components lubricated.

    I assume the problem only occurs when you back up a few feet after switching from 4HI to 2WD (to unlock the hubs.)

    Wait a sec, are you sure it's your hubs and not the t-case?
  • pbk77pbk77 Member Posts: 23
    I have a 2001 Pathfinder SE, anyone know who to replace the In-cabin microfilter? First of all, any idea where it's located? All the help is greatly appreciated.
  • jflashjflash Member Posts: 45
    pbk77, you can find excellent information on the microfilter at the url below. Just click on "In-Cabin MicroFilter". It will give you part numbet, a schematic and location. If you click on the link "installation instructions" you will see clear diagrams to help you install the filter.

    jack <><

    http://www.courtesyparts.com/R50_tuneup.html
  • jclewjclew Member Posts: 4
    anyone out there replace their factory bumper (99.5-2002) with an ARB or anything else? Do you have pictures???

    Thanks
  • uncleal5252uncleal5252 Member Posts: 3
    Trying to decide if I want to step into an older PF as a second vehicle. There are a couple that I have found. ('93 PF, 77K for $6600) & ('95 PF, 68k, $7750). Are there any previous owners out there that can give some insight on these model years? Have any of you owned one before and returned for a newer model? Or should I go after something else like a 4Runner or Blazer/Jimmy. Your help is appreciated.

    Thanks!
  • xplorx4xplorx4 Member Posts: 621
    A couple people I've met on other discussion boards have installed the ARB sahara bar on their late-model Pathfinders. It's a sweet bumper replacement.

    Do a google search for "Pathfinder Sahara Bar" for more info.
  • brisoupbrisoup Member Posts: 56
    After months of reading the many helpful post on this site I finally decided to get rid of my Exploder after it broke down on me for a third time.Getting the Pathfinder at $300.00 under invoice and 3.9% financing for 60 months was a deciding factor.Please don't ask me what i got for trade-in with my explorer.I't still hurts to think about it!The 2002 LE is a thousand times better in every way than my 2001 Explorer Sport.One minor nit-pick with the Pathfinder is fuel milege.I am barely getting 13 MPG in mixed driving. The truck has less than 500 miles on it. Does anyone know if fuel milege will improve after the break in period? I have kept the 4WD selector in 2HI since i bought it. I know there has been many debates about using premium fuel.According to the owners manual you should use premium fuel for "optimal performance".But the manual also says you can use any fuel higher than 87 octane. Does anyone think maybe you can use mid grade 89 octane and use premium once every third fill up is a good idea? Thanks for any imput.
  • gkatz1gkatz1 Member Posts: 296
    If your running 87 octane, that would explain your poor mileage. Stick to the recommended premium and you'll probably see 16 to 20 MPG.
    The engine is designed to run at its best with premium fuel. While you can run 87, performance and mileage will suffer. With the poorer mileage your not saving any money.
  • pbk77pbk77 Member Posts: 23
  • li_sailorli_sailor Member Posts: 1,081
    I agree with gkatz1...to avoid knock issues and get better mpg, I would say stick to premium...that's what I do.

    My first few tankfulls netted about 13 mpg...then it quickly jumped to about 17 avg and has stayed there as the engine loosened up.
  • plasmid1plasmid1 Member Posts: 11
    hi guys,

    i have a 02 pathy LE, i changed the oil to mobil1 synthetic this past weekend. according to the owner's manual, the capacity of the oil pan is 5 and 1/4 Qts. anyway, after the oil change and i followed the intructions from the manual, started the engine and shut it off and waited for more than 10 minutes. at the time, the oil stick shows a little lower than the max so i filled it up with a total of about 5 and 1/4 qts. the thing is that this morning i checked the level again (when cold), there seems to be a overfill (according to the oil stick). i am a little worried to say the least...any suggestions would be more than appreciated??? most importantly, should i get some oil out??? or it should be allright since i only filled out a little over 5 qts...thanks a lot in advance for ur help!!!
  • bnsj5221bnsj5221 Member Posts: 2
    I was at a Nissan dealership the other day and they were telling me that they had just installed a new style SE roof rack on a new LE at no cost, has anyone seen this done? I am more interested in doing the opposite, taking the SE rack off and putting the LE style on, anyone seen this? I have a QX4 now and like this style rack as my Thule rack works with it(I don't want to spend more for the adapters), and aesthetically it looks better.
  • yoeddyyoeddy Member Posts: 46
    Reading your post, it sounds like you have 10+ quarts in your Pathy when you should only have five quarts in there. Did you change your oil, draining five quarts out and then refilling with five new quarts of oil? Then start your engine, shut it off and then put in an additional 5 1/4 quarts? Why?

    The oil pan is for collecting oil when the engine is cold. When your engine is running, that oil is then used by the engine.

    If you do have 10+ quarts of oil, drain that sucker fast before you do serious damage to your vehicle.
  • yoeddyyoeddy Member Posts: 46
    After re-reading your post, it sounds like you were trying to fill-up your pathy based on what the oil pan's capacity. And waiting only ten minutes, won't allow all of the oil in the engine flow down to the oil pan. Also, when you drain the oil pan, you probably are not getting all of the oil out of the vehicle. Thus, you may have put a little more than five quarts in your engine. I wouldn't worry if you think you only have about an extra 1/4 quart.
  • ac6000cwac6000cw Member Posts: 18
    Does anyone on the board have any experience using any of the after market packages that allow you to hook up your Pathfinder's on board computer to a laptop PC? The Nissan version of this is called Consult II but there are several companies that provide a cable and software to allow the owner to download the information from the computer to a standard PC.
  • highuphighup Member Posts: 31
    When I got my new 01 LE, I would change the oil (Mobil non-synthetic) and filter every 3k miles and with each change it only took 5 quarts of oil (including the small amount I poured into the filter)to get to the full line on the dipstick. At 12k miles I switched over to Mobil 1 Synthetic. When I did this change, I waited till all the oil drained out and then jacked up the left side of the truck and got the a little bit more out. This is a step I hadn't done before and probably explains why it only took 5 quarts to show full on the stick on my last 3 oil changes. Now it take exactly 5 1/4 quarts for the dipstick to read full when the engine is warm. If I take a reading in the morning the oil level is a little above the full line. Perfectly acceptable. Fyi from the service manual a dry engine (engine overhaul) takes 6.8l or 7 1/4 quarts approximately.
  • plasmid1plasmid1 Member Posts: 11
    that explains why by filling in 5 1/4 the oil level is above the full line...i guess i have nothing to worry about...thanks a lot, guys!!!
  • gkatz1gkatz1 Member Posts: 296
    I got new Michelin Cross Terrain SUV tires from Tire Rack today. Haven't installed them yet. The stock Toyo's have 25K on them and they shimmy. Before I had them rotated the front tires were cupping on the outside edge, when I put those on the back the shimmy started. I said the hell with it and got the Michelin's. The tread wear rating is over two times higher than the Toyo's. I bought the OEM size. Once I get them on I'll let everyone know how they work.
  • shark715shark715 Member Posts: 382
    I finally got around to installing the airlift kit for the rear axle of my '01 PF today. With the minimum 5 pounds pressure needed according to the instructions from Airlift, the "light load" ride is noticeably improved...much less pitching and swaying on a rough road. I've always felt the rear suspension on my PF is too soft. I have not towed my boat yet, but no doubt the improvement will be dramatic.

    Thanks to everyone here who gave me advice. If anyone else is contemplating installing the kit themselves, here are a few more tips:

    1) Despite what the instructions from Airlift say, you can do the job without removing the springs. Once you disconnect the shocks and panhard rod, you can lower the axle enough so that the springs will be stretched sufficently so that you can drill the required holes in the spring base plates, as well as squeeze the airbags into the interior of the springs. I used a 3/4 inch hole saw along with a hex extension. Depending on the dimensions of your drill, you will need a hex extension in the 6 to 12 inches range to be able to reach the base plate with the hole saw. Granted the hole you drill won't be a perfect circle as you can't drill from straight above with the coil spring in place, but it's close enough.

    2) If you choose to remove the springs, you will need a coil spring compressor. Most standard units have a 8 inch bolt, which is too long for this application. Most manufacturers provide an optional 5 inch bolt for foreign cars...you will need this.

    3) According to the service manual from Nissan, the panhard rod and shock absorber nuts cannot be re-used. My dealer had them in stock and told me that they are "soft" by design. The torque spec for the panhard rod is 80 to 94 foot pounds, and for the shocks 49 to 64 foot pounds. BTW, the torque spec for the wheel lug nuts in 87 to 104 foot pounds.
  • xplorx4xplorx4 Member Posts: 621
    Shark715- Glad to hear of your experience. Did you install the remote air compressor also? If so, where did you put the compressor and the gauge?

    It's odd that you had to remove the panhard rod. You shouldn't have to remove the panhard rod at all. (At least I didn't...) With the shocks removed, and the antiswaybar brackets unbolted, you can lower the axle far enough so that the springs practically fall out. To me, this seemed far easier than unbolting the panhard rod.

    With the springs removed, it's really easy to unbolt the bumpstop and drill out the bottom spring perch. There should already be a hole there, and with a 3/4" drill bit it's actually quite simple.

    Maybe the springs are different on the '01 though...
  • ballfire8888ballfire8888 Member Posts: 131
    Hi Gang:

    Haven't posted in a while and may have missed comments on these 2 topics so apologies for that.

    Has anyone installed wood trim kits and/or body side mouldings to their Pathy? I drive a 2001 SE AWD and am contemplating. If so, how difficult was the job(s)?

    TIA!
  • shark715shark715 Member Posts: 382
    xplorx4, Sounds like I should have had one more conversation with you before doing the work. The instructions from Airlift said to remove only the bottom shock absorber bolts and the "bodyside" panhard rod conection. They didn't mention the antiswaybar brackets. If I had known, I would have saved a lot of time and effort...ugh! Anyway, thanks for your help!
  • bigorange30bigorange30 Member Posts: 1,091
    Anyone installed the Euro tailights on their Pathfinder. If so, what do they look like on the Pathy. I can't find anyone that sells them. I have seen them on many other vehicles and really like them. I was thinking of getting them for my QX4 if they make it look cool.
  • couimetcouimet Member Posts: 130
    Euro Tailights? What are they?
  • bigorange30bigorange30 Member Posts: 1,091
    http://www.procarparts.com/store/displaysubcategory.cfm?category=Altezza


    I am sure you've see many of them on the road and, like me, just thought they were standard for that type of car. Many RX300's have changed out to these that I have seen.

  • phil47phil47 Member Posts: 394
    I installed them on my 2001 LE. Very easy. Most of the time is spent cleaning/prepping the area you install them on, and making sure they are dead straight before securing them with that 3M sticky tape stuff. Takes about an hour. You could put them on in 5 minutes if you wanted, but they probably wouldn't be very straight or attached very well. They look great and work fine.
  • normp1normp1 Member Posts: 25
    Had someone open a door into my brand new 02 the other day and received my first door ding.
    Needless to say just a tad pissed off.

    A couple of questions for you .
    Are the bodyside moldings you just put on factory aftermarket or from some other source? Are they available in body colour ( mine is silver) or black only? Finally at what height on the door are they applied ? ( I'm wondering how effective they would be versus just cosmetic?)

    Anybody have any experience with the new paint less dent removal companies ?

    Thanks for your comments
  • mabazamabaza Member Posts: 21
    Currently drive a Mazda 626 and am looking to get a Pathfinder as my next car/SUV. Since I've never owned a 4WD car, I'm not quite sure whether this is something I want. I live in Madison, Wisconsin so our winters can be nasty.
    2WD appears to be much cheaper, though, so I'm inclined to go with trim that instead.

    Thoughts?
  • dcavicdcavic Member Posts: 9
    Have a 01 LE, at 11,000 miles started what I think is transmission flare. At one time I had a web site saved that had info on call backs and service bulletins. Does anyone know the address of that site? I would like to be prepared before I take the vehicle into Nissan. Thanks.
  • dlundgrendlundgren Member Posts: 17
    <<2WD appears to be much cheaper, though, so I'm inclined to go with trim that instead>>

    No, no, no, no, no, no, no. You might as well go out and buy a Paul Reed Smith guitar and save a few bucks by leaving the strings off.

    I drove Hondas for 22 years exclusively, live in upstate NY where we have some pretty serious winters as well - this last one aside. If you're gonna get one of these things, get one you'll love, which means 4WD. SEs are a bit less expensive than LEs, no less wonderful. Other than an occasional pang at the gas pump, you'll never regret it.
  • rpwaterloorpwaterloo Member Posts: 3
    jflash recently posted a link for installing the microfilters. Thanks jflash, it couldn't be any easier. I have a 2001 XE, so I currently don't have microfilters, but I have begun the work to install them. After removing the glove box I cut out the plastic area as per the diagrams. However, there is a small plastic cross piece about 3/8 of an inch wide above the top section and the lower section. I was wondering if anyone, or you, jflash, knew whether or not that cross section should also be removed to create one long opening from top to bottom to make the space for the filters. I have not removed it yet and don't plan to until I hear from someone, or until I actually have the filters and see whether or not they will go in without removing that small cross piece.
  • mabazamabaza Member Posts: 21
    dlundgren,

    Thanks for taking the time to answer.
    Can you explain the difference between 2*4 and 4*4?

    Thanks
  • jflashjflash Member Posts: 45
    Sorry, rpwaterloo, My SE came with the microfilters installed so I don't know if you'll need to cut out the tab. When I replaced my filters I don't remember seeing it. When I get a chance today I'll try to take a looksee and post the results. Anyone else help here???
    jack <><
  • phil47phil47 Member Posts: 394
    They are a genuine Nissan product that can be ordered from a number of sources including your dealer. They are a perfect color match, and the color is throughout the moulding so dings or scratches won't be obvious. They are effective for door dings that are the result of relatively straight door edges. They will probably deflect around 75% of the dings that might come your way, but not all. They are NOT as good as the significant types of cladding that some SUVs come with, like the QX4, as these mouldings are only about an inch wide and stick out around 5 mm. They are pretty good looking, relatively inexpensive and they are better than not having them at all IMO. Hope this helps.
  • stockstimingstockstiming Member Posts: 27
    My compressor is underneath the driver's seat tack welded at 4 points to the side of the frame member, and the gage is just to the right of the hood release.
  • loboyloboy Member Posts: 75
    rpwaterloo,
    You'll need to cut out that piece between the upper and lower sections to install the filters. I remember doing that when I installed on my LE over a year ago.
  • xplorx4xplorx4 Member Posts: 621
    Are you concerned about water, dirt, etc. getting into the compressor? I took it apart before installing it and noticed that it was a completely open/unfiltered simple air pump. (That's the primary reason I stuffed it into the cavity above the rear passenger-side wheel well.)

    Does the gauge mounted next to the hood release ever get in the way of your legs? I thought about that location, but there wouldn't have been enough clearance for my knee/shin. :)

    If possible, could you post or e-mail photos of your setup? Thanks.
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