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Steve - thanks for the link! I tried googling but came up with squat...that site has my color in a spray for $30 (yikes!). If I can't get it cheaper, I'll get it there. At least now I know I can get it. Let's see...ideas for towing cross country, touch up paint...your KK account is getting full :-)
Pathstar1 - do you mean a Sherwin Williams type of store? They could actually match a car paint code? That's interesting...I'll try it. Probably be in that $30 range, though, I would guess...
Thanks for the help guys...I'll let you know how it goes.
Now that I have an '03 Pathfinder (the Cherokee got whacked in an intersection) and have experienced the horror of those Duelers, it too, will get a set of Coursers in the fall...
I have the exact same problem!! Trying to speed up during a highway merge, let's say, from 30 to 70. So its aggresive accelerating. I end up putting my foot all the way down, and the engine kind of idles at 2200 rpm and feels like its the wrong gear, still going 30mph...
If I leave it for 10 seconds or so, it eventually clears up, but this puts family and I in a dagerous position.
I also have an '01 LE with 34,000 miles, and my concerns seem to be falling on deaf ears at the dealership. Did you get any resolution?
Anyone else seen this?..
I'm having all the trouble in the world to go over 14MPG here with my 2003 Pathfinder LE. On a highway trip I managed to get 16 at best.
Why is the Pathfinder so much thirstier? I see nothing that justifies that fuel consumption.
I thought it was the cold temperature of winter that was responsible for low score. But now here temperature hoovers around 75F and I'm not doing any better MPG wise.
I know I bring up this issue often but I can hardly get 250 miles out of a tank...
Dreadful....
Help me please.
World
It is a big deal for me because I am getting tired to see the the gauge move just for a simple trip to the grocery store. The other day I drove 40 miles (round trip) to see my mom in the hospital and the gauge moved almost 1/4.
I'm lucky that gas is cheap... for now
Ouch. That hits close to home ;-)
I average just under 17 mpg overall.
I guess the price difference is not that great...12,000 miles @16mpg @$1.78 is $1335 whereas @19mpg it would be $1124. But that's about $31 vs $26 a tankful. And using 120 more gallons a year hurts my conscience a bit.
So I'd like the mpg to be a bit better.
Dieselone...what prompted you to replace the O2 sensors? How much did it cost?
Does any one actually know how big is the tank on the 02 pathy? the manual say it's 21 gal, but when I fill it up (as soon as the fuel light came on) with 320 miles on the odometer. It only took in 16 gallon, does this mean I still have 4-5 gallon left when the light came on?
I think the frequent refuelling enhances the belief the vehicle gets poor mileage - after all, what we are getting is not bad for a 240 HP 4300 lb vehicle travelling at 80 MPH.
I'm burning 17 L/100 km worst case (winter) city and 13.0 best 14.5 avg highway L/100 km. The city mileage is bad, but that's what should be expected. The 97 Suburban truck at work (350 engine and not nearly as peppy as my 2001 PF) gets 17 L/100 km best case highway mileage. Otherwise it's "glug...glug...glug". Because of that it has twice the fuel capacity of the PF (160 L - now that's expensive to fill!).
Still not great mileage, but not much different than my other car, which is a Olds Aurora with a 4.0L V-8. They both have similar horsepower. The PF has a smaller motor, but the Aurora isn't shaped like a brick.
I use 5W30W synt. oil and keep my tire pressure at 30 to 32 psi. on both the 98 Honda 01 Pyth.
No major problems with eather SUV.
67 liters to do 403 km....
16.6L/100km
14.1 MPG (US MPG)
17 MPG (Canadian MPG)
50-50 the mix of city versus highway driving... for this tank. 2WD 95% of the time.
BTW, the truck now has 8000Km or 4800 miles...
To be honest I would be satisfied if I got 14L/100 or 17MPG US for this kind of driving. This means that I could have driven an extra 75km (or 45 miles) with the same 67 liters.
World
Thanks!
I also don't remember seeing the owner's manual says not to change tread design.
This is also true between tread designs from the same manufacturer, and even more so when tires of different age are used. Obviously a tire with worn tread will have a smaller diameter than a new tire.
If you have an Pathfinder with a dashboard 4x4 knob, rather than the lever, then you really should replace all 4 tires simultaneously to avoid additional wear on the transfer case.
If you have a lever-operated transfer case, then you already know not to use 4WD unless you're on a low-traction surface, such as snow, sand, or dirt. In this case, the relatively small change in diameter is probably insignificant. And if you've got a 2WD, it makes no difference at all.
Just be sure to replace both tires on the axle, not just one.
Thanks!
Just a thought. Do you or your repair shop torque the lug nuts to the Nissan specs?
Over torqued lug nuts can warp the rotors. If the lugs are installed with an impact, watch out. A good quality 1/2" impact will put out 600+ ft lbs. This equals 6 times the manufacturers specs. The best way to install lugs is with a torque wrench. And not those cheesy things you buy for 19.95 at your local hardware store.
Just trying to help with a quick solution. Although, I would not recommend using the torque sticks. They are +/- 25% accurate. Their invention came about from impacts over torquing lugs. However they were designed for production work in tire shops, were speed of install equals $. I've had a few "disagreements" with tire shop managers over properly torqing the lugs on my vehicles. Now I'll grant you that torque on lug nuts are not as critical as a fastener on an aircraft, however I'm anal about my cars. A good quality torque wrench is +/- 2% in the top 80% of scale. If you want accuracy, nothing beats a quality torque wrench when installing tires on your car.
What can happen if you don't torque it to the proper level of % ? Warp brake rotors? Wheel shaking? Endless worries?
I'm just curious.
Thanks
The other style you refer to as a "ratchet release" is a Click type, the most common wrench in the marketplace. Some ratchet some don't. However, Snap-on has a digital torque wrench that beeps and vibrates when the proper torque is applied. It's very accurate, 1% out of the box, very slick.
To prove my point a large tire store chain has actually purchased torque wrenches for all of their mechanics. They can only use their impacts for removal. No more cross threaded nuts, stripped studs, or warped rotors.
I've owned everything from Ford, Chevy, Audi, Nissan, Volvo, and GM. They all listed the torque specs in the owners manual. They do this for a reason.
Why is all of this important. You're driving down the road in the middle of nowhere and "pow" your Pathfinder has a flat. You pull over and get out your trusty cheap Nissan lug remover. But wait you can't get off one of the lug nuts because some knucklehead at the tire store cross threaded your lug nuts. I actually witness this during my travels. A guy in a Altima who was trying to change his tire at a rest stop couldn't remove the flat. Some Moron at the place he rotated his tires stripped the stud.
Remember, the only thing between your butt seating in your heated leather seats and the hard cold road are your tires.
From whence did this driving need arise? You're quite hypercritical of my use of descriptive language to refer to two different types of torque wrench, pointing out that you have the correct names for my instruction. You missed the point entirely. I just checked with Marshal Dillon from Gunsmoke and he told me that in view of the laws of physics, there really is no reason to ever bother trying to "recalibrate" a classic torque wrench from the Montgomery Ward collection. He then told me that those "clickers" (that's a very technical term!) are rarely expected to read more accurately than 5% of true torque. Now, Snapon probably has a model out that is far better, but then the price will put it out of the reach of the majority of tool buyers, I'd dare say. Oh! And I forgot to tell you I also own a... what? Click type? Yeah, that's it. A click type. (:o]
I owned a 2000 LE PF until a month ago. My PF decided it wanted to fly. An older gentleman pulled out in front of me while I was traveling on a highway. I was also pulling a utility trailer.
Once I t-boned the other vehicle, my PF went sailing, flipped unto the roof and rolled four times. All the glass was blown out and all the occupants were injured
At this point the PF is a mangled heap of metal. But not one of the four air bags deployed. When I was in the ER both a cop and a fireman said the grille guard prevented the air bags from going off. Has anyone had a accident with a grille guard on and the air bags didn't go off? Would love to know. Thanks.
Steve, Host
A quick way to get a reading of a "check engine" light is to go to an Autozone store and ask them for that free service. Now, interpreting the code as a diagnosis of what is required to repair the vehicle can be another matter. You may end up needing to seek out a shop/mechanic for final determination of what to do to fix the problem.