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2. As for poor performance on 2001 AC my pathfinder always produced ice cold air 40 degrees at center duck.
3. My 2003 Pathfinder is a different story with very slow and poor performance of AC. On a hot day after 30 minutes of highway driving the AC can only produce 50 degrees. Dealers in my area have been flooded with complaints of poor AC performance. Nissan's answer it meets factory specifications. If Nissan does not solve this problem I will not be buying a new Pathfinder in 2 years.
Also, removing the glove box is a lot easier than it sounds.
I own two Nissans: a 95 SE V6 4X4 pickup and a 98 Maxima SE. Both have outstanding A/C systems and I have never had any problem with A/C on these vehicles. I am somewhat disappointed reading about problems and deficiencies with new Nissans. Why can't they leave good things alone? Constant redesigns, quest for cheaper parts, and cheaper labor is not the answer.
My 95 pickup A/C is so powerful that I do not need to run the system in the recirculation mode in the peak of summer in Florida, and I run the fan on only second speed most of the time. In eight years I have not touched the system and it still works as good as on the day I bought the truck.
As far as the A/C issues with the '03 PFs, why not just get a used PF then? If I were in the market today, I would get an '01 since that has the VQ35 motor so it is the same car as an '03 other than a redesigned dashboard, 17" alloys (LE only), tire pressure monitor (optional) & VDC (optional as well). Save your $$$; why take the depreciation hit? I would have bought used in 12/00 but I didn't because I was coming out of my lease on a 99.5 PF SE Limited and wanted the 3.5l engine.
As for the extended warranty question, if you have the vehicle history/service records, and they are clean, there is no need to spend the $$$ on an extended warranty on these cars. If it was an Audi/VW I would definitely say yes since they are known to have reliability issues. The PF has been ranked the best SUV in its class in initial quality the last few years and also just ranked #2 in it's class for long-term reliability (JD Power).
1) shrill metallic squeal coming from front end after 15-20min driving, appears once speed is over 40kph
2) power loss at higher speed/high rpms (ie hills climbs over 70kpm and 3500 RPM). Engine feels like it is choking itself out. Easing up on gas results in power recovery.
Any thoughts?
If all of those lights turn on at once, it could be a sign of a loose belt. Check the tension and condition of the serpentine belt, which runs your alternator (battery warning lamp), water pump, and engine fan (AT temp warning lamp).
As for the brake light, check the fluid level in the reservoir. If it's low, the brake warning lamp will glow. The brake fluid level may be low because your front (or rear) brakes may be near the end of their useful life and should be checked.
I know that the brake fluid level is fine. You might be right about the brake pads. They may need to be replaced. Any idea on how much it will cost to replace by the dealer? Is it easy to replace it yourself?
Thanks for your help xplorx4...
If you've got a garage, a floor jack, a lug wrench, a C-clamp and a 14mm socket/ratchet, you can do a "pad slap"- replace the pads without servicing the rotors in less than an hour. It's a relatively simple job, but if you're not handy with tools or are remotely squeamish about working on your car yourself, leave it up to a qualified shop.
For reference, during the first 110,000 miles, I did nothing more than "pad slaps" (myself) before it was necessary to remove the rotors, which were in need of replacement. I was fortunate enough not to have ever warped my rotors, unlike many other people on this discussion board.
Also (FYI), rear brakes tend to outlast front brakes by 3 to 1 or 4 to 1. That is, you'll probably replace your front pads 3 or 4 times before you need new rear shoes.
I guess we were doomed both ways in our choice between the 2003 Pathfinder and the 2003 4Runner. Both vehicles have been subject to the Lemon Law (see the 4runner board for redfish story).
Disappointing really.... Gee both vehicles were the leaders of the pack in terms of quality...
On my side no Check Engine light problem but the front end of my truck was damaged by some sort of sandblasting that might have been done this winter (they put sand on our icy roads here during winter). I went to a couple of windshield and body shop who explained me that sandblasting here was somewht normal due to the conditions but it was not normal on a new vehicle like mine after only 1 winter.... They all agree that this is the results of poor quality parts....
Quality is less present as car makers are trying to cut costs to stay competitive..
Anyway, aside from this issue the truck is behaving flawlessly and MPG as sky rocketed with the summer temperatures (best MPG so far: 20.5 US MPG - 90% higway driving) and normal city/highway driving 16 US MPG.
I finally pulled my boat over the last few weeks and while the PF was powerfull enough to easily handle the load I have to admit that I do not like the feeling of pulling with a unibody. You feel the trailer much more and it makes the backend sway a little. With the 4Runner I could not feel the boat/trailer at all except when braking. I guess that frame-based vehicle are more comfortable for pulling stuff.
The brakes are powerful but since I braked a bit hard with the boat attached I feel a vibration now when I brake. Thye may have warped a little.... Unfortunate... that did not happen with the 4Runner after 4 years of pulling my boat brake hard once in a while....
But the handling is great. The PF corners 10 times better (but I haven't tried the X-Reas suspension), almost like a car.
Anyway it is fun to try different vehicles and develop a taste for particular technologies (frame, brakes, suspensions.)
World Traveler: You said when you hit the brake you feel vibration, does that mean it has wraped rotars because I too am feeling some sort of vibration when I hit the break hard. I had no idea it was a wraped rotar. I just have 17000 miles. Will the warranty covered the wraped rotors?
Warped rotors is a much slower pulsation, and the steering wheel may even shake back and forth a little.
(FYI; just so you can tell the difference.)
Since the steering wheel shakes a little I would say that the rotor is actually a little warped but not much. I can mainly feel it when I have to stop a bit harder to stop in time when I misjudged the braking distance for some reasons.
No big deal really but I think I'll have to fix the brakes before my lease will be over.
I would go with a MY2001+ instead of a 2000. The former has the latest 3.5l 240hp VQ motor. The old 3.3l is underpowered (~170hp) for a vehicle this size. I leased a 3.3l before I bought the '01 and it had trouble maintaining speed when going up steep inclines on the highway.
ABS will pulse at the same speed (frequency) no matter how fast the car is going.
battery
AT temp
brake
It makes me wonder... are those "idiot lights" only linked to the output voltage of the alternator? While this kind of makes sense (the alternator belt also turns the engine fan, which if not turning, can cause overheating of both the engine and the transmission) I certainly hope there are other sensors that measure the actual AT temp!
Plus, why is the brake system dependent on the alternator???
Called the service department and they said that the AT oil temp, brake and battery lights are connected to the alternator...
Thanks.
You might want to check with your dealer. I removed the little bracket that was there, it was held with 10mm bolts believed.
Dealer even measured the cabin temperature in the front seats at 74 with AC on max and re circulate, and 79 at the back seat.
Local dealer contacted Nissan technical division only to find out that yes Nissan has received numerous complaints about their AC system. But as far as Nissan is concerned it falls with in the normal operation of Specs set by Nissan. Even the local dealer said he would not be happy with the AC if it was his SUV.
Nissan Factory also confirmed that this system is only used in the 2003 Pathfinder. All other Nissan's have a different system.
One additional fact is that the total refrigerant charge weight is less than 1 pound. Yes thats right less than 1 pound for R-134. All other Nissan products have a different system that has a charge of 1.25 pounds of R-134.
Nissan Factory at this time has no cure and seems not to be interested in fixing the condition.
Thus if you live in a sun belt area I would strongly suggest you stay clear of the 2003 Pathfinders unless you just like cool air, not ice cold air.
-PNC
It hasn't happened again so far but I'll get convinced that it is completely fixed only if doesn't happen again in the next two weeks.
On a side note, I received my Zaino products on Friday and was able to wash+Z5+Z6 on Sunday. I couldn't find time to do multiple coats which I am going to this weekend. I am planning on two more coats of Z5 and one Z2. These products are awesome.
There is a TSB for the Bottoming out problem. The fix is the dealer will install larger rubber bump stops inside the rear springs. It is a free fix but, I am not sure if they will cover it outside your warranty. I had 27K on 2001 LE pathy when I took mine in. Of course, they are not aware of any TSBs on the bottoming out issue. Go to www.alldata.com. It is a well known problem. A trade off for comfort and softer ride. However, larger bump stops do not effect ride comfort. Never bottomed out again with the car fully loaded with passengers and cargo. Hope that helps, I know previous posts helped me on this subject.
First, check your owner's manual to see if it explains how to reset the indicator, then call up or visit the dealer if the owner's manual is no help.
Opinions?
Thanks,
Bryan
265/65R17 are 30.56" in diameter
265/70R17 are 31.6" in diameter, give or take a few mm for manufacturer specifications.
If you opt for this tire size, ask the tire dealer to test fit a tire on the front to check for rubbing issues on the fender lining and the strut tower before you get them all installed.