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Nissan Pathfinder

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    nikiblue1nikiblue1 Member Posts: 44
    Try ebay, I've seen them go for around $100.
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    twelsh140twelsh140 Member Posts: 7
    1. I have had 3 Pathfinders all with the in cabin air filter. I have always changed mine every year or 15,000 miles. The filter is packed full of dirt. You can change on your own, or have dealer. Yes you do have to remove glove box and on some years make a cut out. Dealer in my area is very cheap.
    2. As for poor performance on 2001 AC my pathfinder always produced ice cold air 40 degrees at center duck.
    3. My 2003 Pathfinder is a different story with very slow and poor performance of AC. On a hot day after 30 minutes of highway driving the AC can only produce 50 degrees. Dealers in my area have been flooded with complaints of poor AC performance. Nissan's answer it meets factory specifications. If Nissan does not solve this problem I will not be buying a new Pathfinder in 2 years.
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    pathfinder13pathfinder13 Member Posts: 110
    My dealer told me, it's all upto me if I want to change the filter or not so I didn't change it.
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    pathfinder13pathfinder13 Member Posts: 110
    My dealer said will cost me 119$ to change it but when I looked in edmunds guide it says $20. What is the actual cost to change it.
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    bigorange30bigorange30 Member Posts: 1,091
    I remember when I went to the Infiniti dealership for the 15K service he wanted over $100 to change the filter. I opted to wait until 30K. This will be coming up this fall. Now I am thinking about doing it myself. I am not too happy about having to cut a part of my dash though.
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    smibradsmibrad Member Posts: 34
    bigorange30........if you already have a microfilter installed then you don't need to perform any cutting. This is only needed if you previously didn't have one installed.

    Also, removing the glove box is a lot easier than it sounds.
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    p100p100 Member Posts: 1,116
    Thank you very much for your information on the 03 Patfinder A/C performance. I have been considering buying one but I live in central Florida and the last thing I need is a weak A/C system in my vehicle.
    I own two Nissans: a 95 SE V6 4X4 pickup and a 98 Maxima SE. Both have outstanding A/C systems and I have never had any problem with A/C on these vehicles. I am somewhat disappointed reading about problems and deficiencies with new Nissans. Why can't they leave good things alone? Constant redesigns, quest for cheaper parts, and cheaper labor is not the answer.
    My 95 pickup A/C is so powerful that I do not need to run the system in the recirculation mode in the peak of summer in Florida, and I run the fan on only second speed most of the time. In eight years I have not touched the system and it still works as good as on the day I bought the truck.
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    jiaminjiamin Member Posts: 556
    on my 94 Altima, 96 Maxima and 02 QX4 are all ice cold. I never turn temp all the way down, or I'd be too cold and sneeze.
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    spinbearspinbear Member Posts: 9
    In the six weeks that we've had our new PF, the A/C seems to be working just fine -- gets cold quick, esp. if set to recirculate at first for the initial cool-down after being in the sun. However, this is our first PF, so no previous models to compare it to. Very happy with our purchase so far.
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    pathfinder13pathfinder13 Member Posts: 110
    Can anyone tell me what is the best way to tell if the vechile has microfilter or not.
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    jiaminjiamin Member Posts: 556
    I believe the best way is to open the glove box door and see if there is a sticker on it. My QX4 has two stickers, one is for the tire/wheel, and the one in the center (recessed area) is for the micro filter, saying something like "replace it every 30,000 km or 1 year..."
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    pathstar1pathstar1 Member Posts: 1,015
    If the sticker is not there, look up behind the glove box on the air plenum (plastic ribbed housing). It goes in on the right end of the plenum, as I recall.
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    goose1207goose1207 Member Posts: 113
    I paid $30 or so for mine at the parts dept at my local dlr. Nissan has a discount coupon on their website for any parts purchases. This is definitely a DIY job. Why pay the dealer so much $$$ ($100+ including the part) for labor? It will take you 15 - 20 minutes max.

    As far as the A/C issues with the '03 PFs, why not just get a used PF then? If I were in the market today, I would get an '01 since that has the VQ35 motor so it is the same car as an '03 other than a redesigned dashboard, 17" alloys (LE only), tire pressure monitor (optional) & VDC (optional as well). Save your $$$; why take the depreciation hit? I would have bought used in 12/00 but I didn't because I was coming out of my lease on a 99.5 PF SE Limited and wanted the 3.5l engine.

    As for the extended warranty question, if you have the vehicle history/service records, and they are clean, there is no need to spend the $$$ on an extended warranty on these cars. If it was an Audi/VW I would definitely say yes since they are known to have reliability issues. The PF has been ranked the best SUV in its class in initial quality the last few years and also just ranked #2 in it's class for long-term reliability (JD Power).
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    garthdgarthd Member Posts: 2
    2 things I am trying to get fixed:

    1) shrill metallic squeal coming from front end after 15-20min driving, appears once speed is over 40kph

    2) power loss at higher speed/high rpms (ie hills climbs over 70kpm and 3500 RPM). Engine feels like it is choking itself out. Easing up on gas results in power recovery.

    Any thoughts?
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    mchinmchin Member Posts: 22
    I was checking the battery cell levels last evening. I filled the cells that needed to be filled with distilled water. I started the car this morning and the AT temp, battery and brake light came on. I drove it about a mile and the warning lights would go off and come back on. Has this every happen to anyone? Thanks.
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    xplorx4xplorx4 Member Posts: 621
    I don't think the warning lights are related to your battery maintenance. The occurrence is likely coincidental.

    If all of those lights turn on at once, it could be a sign of a loose belt. Check the tension and condition of the serpentine belt, which runs your alternator (battery warning lamp), water pump, and engine fan (AT temp warning lamp).

    As for the brake light, check the fluid level in the reservoir. If it's low, the brake warning lamp will glow. The brake fluid level may be low because your front (or rear) brakes may be near the end of their useful life and should be checked.
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    mchinmchin Member Posts: 22
    Weird how all of a sudden the belt would become loose??
    I know that the brake fluid level is fine. You might be right about the brake pads. They may need to be replaced. Any idea on how much it will cost to replace by the dealer? Is it easy to replace it yourself?

    Thanks for your help xplorx4...
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    xplorx4xplorx4 Member Posts: 621
    Not sure how much your local dealer quotes for front brake pad replacement. Contact some other local auto service shops for estimates as well. Ask them what they do, besides just replace the pads. Some places will also resurface (aka "turn") the rotors, which is quite a bit more costly. Depending on the mileage on your truck, they may also try to sell you a brake system flush, which may not be a bad idea if your truck has over 60,000 miles.

    If you've got a garage, a floor jack, a lug wrench, a C-clamp and a 14mm socket/ratchet, you can do a "pad slap"- replace the pads without servicing the rotors in less than an hour. It's a relatively simple job, but if you're not handy with tools or are remotely squeamish about working on your car yourself, leave it up to a qualified shop.

    For reference, during the first 110,000 miles, I did nothing more than "pad slaps" (myself) before it was necessary to remove the rotors, which were in need of replacement. I was fortunate enough not to have ever warped my rotors, unlike many other people on this discussion board.

    Also (FYI), rear brakes tend to outlast front brakes by 3 to 1 or 4 to 1. That is, you'll probably replace your front pads 3 or 4 times before you need new rear shoes.
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    dcmikedcmike Member Posts: 53
    First time poster on this board (usually on the Maxima board) with a question - my sister just bought an 03 LE PF and told me that it was AWD. Is there any labeling outside the vehicle to specify that it is an AWD model? I know that my wife's Highlander clearly states AWD, just wondering if the PF does as well (because of the price, I'm really concerned that the dealership screwed her and gave her a 2WD instead of the 4WD). Thanks for your help...
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    dpphotodpphoto Member Posts: 1
    I am thinking about buying a 2000 4x4 PF from a dealer. The car is from New York and I live in CA, will I have trouble with the DMV and passing smog. Is the 2000 a good modle year? Thanks
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    jiaminjiamin Member Posts: 556
    I think 03 PF is almost the same as 02-03 QX4. In 4WD QX4, there is a rotary switch on the lower left center console indicating 2WD, AUTO, 4H and 4L. If it's a 2WD, then this switch is replaced with a coin box. I don't think PF has outside labeling for this.
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    world_travelerworld_traveler Member Posts: 153
    The 2003 Pathfinder LE has both AWD and 4WD.
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    world_travelerworld_traveler Member Posts: 153
    Hello M99,

    I guess we were doomed both ways in our choice between the 2003 Pathfinder and the 2003 4Runner. Both vehicles have been subject to the Lemon Law (see the 4runner board for redfish story).

    Disappointing really.... Gee both vehicles were the leaders of the pack in terms of quality...

    On my side no Check Engine light problem but the front end of my truck was damaged by some sort of sandblasting that might have been done this winter (they put sand on our icy roads here during winter). I went to a couple of windshield and body shop who explained me that sandblasting here was somewht normal due to the conditions but it was not normal on a new vehicle like mine after only 1 winter.... They all agree that this is the results of poor quality parts....

    Quality is less present as car makers are trying to cut costs to stay competitive..

    Anyway, aside from this issue the truck is behaving flawlessly and MPG as sky rocketed with the summer temperatures (best MPG so far: 20.5 US MPG - 90% higway driving) and normal city/highway driving 16 US MPG.

    I finally pulled my boat over the last few weeks and while the PF was powerfull enough to easily handle the load I have to admit that I do not like the feeling of pulling with a unibody. You feel the trailer much more and it makes the backend sway a little. With the 4Runner I could not feel the boat/trailer at all except when braking. I guess that frame-based vehicle are more comfortable for pulling stuff.

    The brakes are powerful but since I braked a bit hard with the boat attached I feel a vibration now when I brake. Thye may have warped a little.... Unfortunate... that did not happen with the 4Runner after 4 years of pulling my boat brake hard once in a while....

    But the handling is great. The PF corners 10 times better (but I haven't tried the X-Reas suspension), almost like a car.

    Anyway it is fun to try different vehicles and develop a taste for particular technologies (frame, brakes, suspensions.)
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    pathfinder13pathfinder13 Member Posts: 110
    It doesn't have 4wd logo outside the vechile but you can just look at the center dash where you can see round nob like auto, 2wd, 4h and 4l.

    World Traveler: You said when you hit the brake you feel vibration, does that mean it has wraped rotars because I too am feeling some sort of vibration when I hit the break hard. I had no idea it was a wraped rotar. I just have 17000 miles. Will the warranty covered the wraped rotors?
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    twelsh140twelsh140 Member Posts: 7
    Don't forget when braking hard the anti-locking brake system will cause some feedback. Some people say vibration and some say it feels like a pulsation. In my experience of owning 4 different Pathfinders from 96 to current production I have never had the rotors warp in 45,000 miles of operation. Even when I towed a boat. Remember the LE models have standard anti-locking brakes.
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    xplorx4xplorx4 Member Posts: 621
    When the ABS activates, it feels like the brake pedal buzzes/hums. You feel a strong, fast vibration.

    Warped rotors is a much slower pulsation, and the steering wheel may even shake back and forth a little.

    (FYI; just so you can tell the difference.)
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    pathfinder13pathfinder13 Member Posts: 110
    since my steering wheel don't shake. In fact, it kinda feels like pulsation. Thanks guys for some advise. By the way, what causes it?
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    xplorx4xplorx4 Member Posts: 621
    The ABS system causes the pulsation. The ABS rapidly modulates the brake pressure (from your foot stomping on the brake pedal) to keep the wheels from locking. In loose or slippery conditions, actual brake pressure needn't be very much to induce wheel lockup, which is where ABS truly shines. Basically, the system reacts in such a way that no matter what surface you're on, the wheels aren't supposed to lock up while the truck is moving above 6mph.
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    world_travelerworld_traveler Member Posts: 153
    I can make the difference between ABS and warped rotor, I've had a couple of vehicles equipped with ABS, I know the ABS feeling.

    Since the steering wheel shakes a little I would say that the rotor is actually a little warped but not much. I can mainly feel it when I have to stop a bit harder to stop in time when I misjudged the braking distance for some reasons.

    No big deal really but I think I'll have to fix the brakes before my lease will be over.
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    goose1207goose1207 Member Posts: 113
    The AWD/4x4/All-Mode model has a lit 4WD diagram within the tach guage. It shows you if the differential is locked (4HI & 4LO) and there is also a green indicator if it's in 4LO. When in All-Mode, all 4 wheels a lit in green. I believe the 2WD model does not have this but like the others said, it would definitely not have a 4WD mode knob just ahead of the shifter/below the radio.

    I would go with a MY2001+ instead of a 2000. The former has the latest 3.5l 240hp VQ motor. The old 3.3l is underpowered (~170hp) for a vehicle this size. I leased a 3.3l before I bought the '01 and it had trouble maintaining speed when going up steep inclines on the highway.
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    mchinmchin Member Posts: 22
    The problem was a faulty alternator. Thank goodness for the warranty.
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    nne3jxcnne3jxc Member Posts: 134
    If you have warped rotors, the "pulsation" you feel will become slower (less frequent) as the vehicle slows down. (I.e., at 50 mph it will feel like a fast pulse/vibration, at 10 mph you will feel it only once or twice per second.)
    ABS will pulse at the same speed (frequency) no matter how fast the car is going.
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    xplorx4xplorx4 Member Posts: 621
    It's interesting to note that a faulty alternator causes the following lamps to glow:
    battery
    AT temp
    brake

    It makes me wonder... are those "idiot lights" only linked to the output voltage of the alternator? While this kind of makes sense (the alternator belt also turns the engine fan, which if not turning, can cause overheating of both the engine and the transmission) I certainly hope there are other sensors that measure the actual AT temp!

    Plus, why is the brake system dependent on the alternator???
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    mchinmchin Member Posts: 22
    Good question about the brake light coming on. I will contact the service department and see what they say about it.
    Called the service department and they said that the AT oil temp, brake and battery lights are connected to the alternator...
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    phatnastycatphatnastycat Member Posts: 73
    I have a 2001 PF LE and am looking for a front license plate kit. The two brackets in the front where I screw in the plate just don't house a plate very well. Any suggestion?
    Thanks.
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    mattman055mattman055 Member Posts: 57
    My state (PA) doesn't require front license plates. However, I believe our dealer gave us a bracket that mounts to the bracket there already for mounting the front plate.

    You might want to check with your dealer. I removed the little bracket that was there, it was held with 10mm bolts believed.
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    twelsh140twelsh140 Member Posts: 7
    This is the second time I took my new 2003 Pathfinder into the dealership with the complaint that the AC is not cold enough. The day in question was a bright sunny day with 85 degrees. The most the AC systems was capable of was 50 to 55 degrees. 50 when engine was at High idle . At 92 degrees outside air the max. temp output of the AC system is 55 degrees under high idle and 60 at normal idle.
    Dealer even measured the cabin temperature in the front seats at 74 with AC on max and re circulate, and 79 at the back seat.
      Local dealer contacted Nissan technical division only to find out that yes Nissan has received numerous complaints about their AC system. But as far as Nissan is concerned it falls with in the normal operation of Specs set by Nissan. Even the local dealer said he would not be happy with the AC if it was his SUV.
    Nissan Factory also confirmed that this system is only used in the 2003 Pathfinder. All other Nissan's have a different system.
    One additional fact is that the total refrigerant charge weight is less than 1 pound. Yes thats right less than 1 pound for R-134. All other Nissan products have a different system that has a charge of 1.25 pounds of R-134.
    Nissan Factory at this time has no cure and seems not to be interested in fixing the condition.
    Thus if you live in a sun belt area I would strongly suggest you stay clear of the 2003 Pathfinders unless you just like cool air, not ice cold air.
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    Jack44Jack44 Member Posts: 221
    In my son's 2002 SE diving thru Redding,CA last year at 119...Cool inside...
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    phatnastycatphatnastycat Member Posts: 73
    I'll check with a dealer and see what they might bracket set they have.
    -PNC
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    dnr01dnr01 Member Posts: 2
    I just bought a used 2000 Pathfinder SE and the we seem to have the front end shimmy and hard pull to the right going on. The dealer has put on all new tires and we thought being the old ones were a little worn on one side it needed to be aligned as well, they didn't think so. So we get the car back and it wasn't pulling but it was shimmying/shaking at high speeds...over 60. We brought it back again and they altered the air a little in the tires... Can anyone help? There are days when I don't drive as fast that it seems fine, just on the highways is where you really start to notice.
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    pathfinder13pathfinder13 Member Posts: 110
    This saturday I had to drop three of my friends+ their luggages, what I noticed was the vechile was bumping all the time(rear part). I guess this is the problem that everyone is talking about. I am wondering what did pathfinder owners did to solve the problem.
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    mahipalcmahipalc Member Posts: 20
    As I mentioned in my previous post, the two front windows kept rolling down automatically after 45 seconds of removing the key from ignition or opening either the front door, which ever occurs first. It didnt happen all the time but very randomly. Dealer detected a problem with the window regulator switch assembly and replaced the switch yesterday. The car has less than 1000 miles.
    It hasn't happened again so far but I'll get convinced that it is completely fixed only if doesn't happen again in the next two weeks.
    On a side note, I received my Zaino products on Friday and was able to wash+Z5+Z6 on Sunday. I couldn't find time to do multiple coats which I am going to this weekend. I am planning on two more coats of Z5 and one Z2. These products are awesome.
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    lbinhlbinh Member Posts: 190
    Pathfinder13,

    There is a TSB for the Bottoming out problem. The fix is the dealer will install larger rubber bump stops inside the rear springs. It is a free fix but, I am not sure if they will cover it outside your warranty. I had 27K on 2001 LE pathy when I took mine in. Of course, they are not aware of any TSBs on the bottoming out issue. Go to www.alldata.com. It is a well known problem. A trade off for comfort and softer ride. However, larger bump stops do not effect ride comfort. Never bottomed out again with the car fully loaded with passengers and cargo. Hope that helps, I know previous posts helped me on this subject.
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    dieselonedieselone Member Posts: 5,729
    I've seen the gauges and lights go nuts on other vehicles when the alternator is bad. Many gauges and warning lights read the ohm output of a sensor, if the alternator is not working correctly it will affect how all of gauges and warning lights respond. All this means is if your alternator isn't working, some of your gauges and warning lights may be inoperative as well...
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    pathfinder13pathfinder13 Member Posts: 110
    I am still in warranty since I have only 17000 miles in my odemeter.
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    bd70bd70 Member Posts: 30
    I recently had a blowout of one of my tires. I put the spare on, which incidentally was overinflated to almost 50 PSI. I had the flat on the spare tire chain for about 2 weeks when I finally got the chance to put a new tire on the rim. Bottom line is that the low tire pressure indicator has been on since the blowout. All of the tires are inflated to about 32 PSI. The gauge is still on. Can I reset the gauge or does the dealer need to do it with their computer? Also, any idea whether or not the spare being overinflated since being sent over from Japan might have any effect on the sensor in the tire? Thanks.
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    xplorx4xplorx4 Member Posts: 621
    Assuming the Pathfinder's TPMS uses pressure sensors instead of the ABS sensors to detect low pressure, the pressure sensor is probably located in the wheel that blew out, not the spare. I sincerely doubt that your spare tire has a pressure sensor in it, so it's unlikely that the spare tire has anything to do with the indicator lamp. In fact, if the TPMS uses the ABS sensors, it should have reset when you put the spare on. If the "low pressure indicator" is still lit, it's possible that the pressure sensor (if so equipped) was damaged either when the tire blew out or when you had a new tire put on.

    First, check your owner's manual to see if it explains how to reset the indicator, then call up or visit the dealer if the owner's manual is no help.
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    austin_paustin_p Member Posts: 27
    Greetings all. I am finally tired of the POS duellers that are on my 02 LE and looking to replace them. Seems like a 265/65/17 is perfect but not that many good tires in that size. Has anyone had experience w/ a 265/70/17? i can get the Yok Geolander AT+II in that size, which is 1.5inches taller than stock.

    Opinions?

    Thanks,

    Bryan
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    xplorx4xplorx4 Member Posts: 621
    without rubbing issues.

    265/65R17 are 30.56" in diameter

    265/70R17 are 31.6" in diameter, give or take a few mm for manufacturer specifications.

    If you opt for this tire size, ask the tire dealer to test fit a tire on the front to check for rubbing issues on the fender lining and the strut tower before you get them all installed.
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    pathfinder13pathfinder13 Member Posts: 110
    I have been looking for wider tire that fits the 2002 rims but have had no lucks yet.
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