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Nissan Pathfinder

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Comments

  • jiaminjiamin Member Posts: 556
    Leather on my 02 QX4 steering wheel does not have any sign of crack/drying out. However I often use Turtle leather cleaner and conditioner (2-in-1) on all leather surface, about a few times a year.
  • lbinhlbinh Member Posts: 190
    My 2001 LE doesn't have that and I get a lot of hot sun in southern Texas. I make it a point not to use any cheap/inexpensive leather/rubber/vinyl cleaners and protectants such as Armor All. They do more damage than good. I use McGuires and/or Lexol products. More expensive but worth the price vs. cheap brands.

    Also, I don't apply anything to the steering wheel leather cause it makes it slippery.

    I read from other forums that an internet company specializes in steering wheel refinishing. I think it costs about $200-$300. Will have to look up site URL.

    Or simply buy those steering wheel leather covers(non-perforated leather) at autoparts stores. I bought one from Pep Boys($15) for my previous Dakota and it was a nice fit. You just had to thread it yourself, that took a long time.
  • pathalogicalpathalogical Member Posts: 34
    I can use my key in the driver side exterior door lock to roll up and roll down the windows. Then I can press and hold the unlock button on the remote to roll down the windows, but why can't we use the remote to roll UP the windows ?
  • marsha7marsha7 Member Posts: 3,703
    questions to those in the know...I now have my passenger car and pickup truck, now will start looking at SUVs...I don't want anything tiny, like Escape or Liberty, I want adequate horsepower and torque, auto trans, and, most important, 4WD with Hi/Lo range that I engage myself when needed, not AWD that decides on its own when to engage...I may go off-road, slightly, like into a pasture, but the 4WD is in case of stuck in mud, go around a highway wreck onto the wet road shoulder, basically 4WD for emergencies that my Crown Vic can't handle...Jeep GC is eliminated because the V8 models all come with "intelligent 4WD" which is AWD...my top considerations now are Pathfinder, Explorer, Xterra...4Runner may be a consideration, but lots of Nissan folks seem to believe that Nissan is easily equal to, or superior to Toyota, so I will take them at face value...when folks talk about a vehicle lasting 200-300K miles, that gets my attention...while we do not know what the 2006 Explorer will be, current rumors give it a 292HP V8, and a floor/console shifter, which I really like...taking what we now know, and that PF and Xterra have also been upgraded for 2005, do any of you have opinions on the pros and cons of the various models I have suggested, or are any of you considering the same factors I am for an SUV???
  • dbauerdbauer Member Posts: 416
    the only one i know of with a traditional hi/lo lever is the xterra and the 4runner. the xterra will save you thousands over the 4runner, and has much better build quality, IMO.
  • keeferbkeeferb Member Posts: 81
    We just went through this same dilema. We had it narrowed down to the Pathfinder and Explorer. We have leased a '98 and '01 Pathfinder and were looking to lease again.

    Here's what we thought about the '05 Explorer...
    - conservative but stylish exterior
    - simple, clean interior
    - good legroom in 2nd row, tolerable 3rd row(I'm a long-legged 6'2")
    - didn't like the sloping cargo floor when 2nd & 3rd rows folded
    - rough V6, smooth V8
    - decent ride
    - expensive MSRP when you load it up(although mostly offset by rebates)
    - has some of the worst depreciation from I've seen, which meant terrible lease prices and/or low resale
    - questionable reliability, depending on who you talk to

    and our thoughts on the '05 Pathfinder...
    - bold, aggressive exterior...somewhat head-turning
    - same for the interior
    - tighter 2nd row legroom than Explorer, 3rd row too tight for me to sit
    - flat, level cargo area
    - smooth, powerful V6; not quite as 'torquey' off the line as the Explorer V8, but quicker 0-60
    - nice ride on the freeway; a little stiff on rough roads
    - good value for the money; great lease deals
    - previous generations had rock-solid reliability...hopefully that carries over

    So we ended up going with the '05 Pathfinder SE. We've had it a couple weeks and love it...no regrets. My advice is to drive them all, more than once if necessary. You can read all the opinions and reviews you want but when it comes down to it, you're the one that has to decide what you like. Good luck!
  • marsha7marsha7 Member Posts: 3,703
    So, the Pathfinder does not offer (what I believe is properly called) part-time 4WD???...does it offer AWD, or no 4WD at all?
  • keeferbkeeferb Member Posts: 81
    The XE and SE trims have a switch-operated part-time 4WD. I believe the LE is full-time 4WD, but I'm not certain on that.
  • johnny_ringojohnny_ringo Member Posts: 30
    The LE has 2WD, 4WD auto, 4 hi and 4lo; all operated by a dial switch.
  • noggyjoenoggyjoe Member Posts: 2
    Go to www.hidexpress.com. They have Xenon HID Conversion Kits (I mean TRUE HID) from 6000 degress to 10,000 Talk about a great view and arc.....these lights are tops.
  • noggyjoenoggyjoe Member Posts: 2
    I woould like to convert my rear drum brakes (XE model) with a rear disc and caliper. I understand, it's just a matter of transferring parts and removing the drums and rear plate. The anchor pints for the calipers are already in place. Anyone lend a hand on this information. Thanks!
  • cselborcselbor Member Posts: 2
    I have an 01 SE. only problem i've had with 66K miles was an O2 sensor and had it replaced. It's a nice, comfortable ride. Eats gas like candy, but I've since switched to a synthetic blend motor oil and have noticed a nice difference, not significant, but nice, plus smoother start ups. My belt started squeeling on cold mornings, but it has been time to have that changed as well. 01 is the year PF came out with new powerful 3.5 ltr engine w/240 HP. I believe the 00 still had the smaller 6cyl w/170 HP. I recommend the 01.
  • lbinhlbinh Member Posts: 190
    The 2001 is almost flawless in regards to durability and quality. Infrequent cold temp rattle in center AC vent but that is it. My 2001 LE w/59K miles only had a battery and set of tires changed. Had the O2 sensor SES light but has gone away with good gas. I use Castrol synthetic blend 10W30 and Mobil 1 Synthetic ATF. Makes for smoother engine and AT shifts. Car like ride and solid unibody. Hard to give this one up for the newer 05's.
  • gjaugiegjaugie Member Posts: 6
    I was in to the dealer for a number of things that would be covered under warranty including the slipping when shifting and the low end vibration. After leaving the vehicle with them for two days all they got accomplished was the oil change. No Problem Found was about all they could say. I didn't have time to drag the tranny guy out for a test drive and I couldn't leave it with them another day in the hopes they might notice the obvious. So, I'll go back again when the problem is even more annoying and maybe they will acknowledge it then. The problem with technicians at dealerships is that they are trained to deal with trouble codes and repair a problem when the computer tells them it exists. They have no time and no interest in resolving a problem that is subtle or that requires diagnostic ability. Technicians are largely part changers without years of experience to recognize symptoms. If the computer doesn't see it, then it doesn't exist. The dealership philosophy on service perpetuates this approach as well. No car is worth very much of the technician's time when others are stacking up in the service bays that can be assessed without a test drive by simply plugging them into the computer. I've noticed how problems are more easily diagnosed when the vehicle is outside of warranty. Be sure to take your patience with you when you go to the dealership for service. Or don't buy a new car.
  • stuartboniastuartbonia Member Posts: 56
    Any idea how the auto mode in the Pathfinder LE compares to the drive system in the Honda Pilot?

    It's rare that I need to put the LE into 4 Hi. I normally leave in auto mode during the winter and it does a great job. I will put it into 4 Hi when I want to play around the neighborhood after a big snowfall.

    My lease is coming to an end and I don't really like the looks of the 2005 Pathfinder. I originally picked the 2002 Pathfinder over the then new Pilot. The Pathfinder had a better road feel than the Pilot. Nissan did too radical of a change to the Pathfinder for me.
  • bishheadbishhead Member Posts: 1
    Looking for a trade in valuation on 2003 Pathfinder SE with these options :
    running boards:
    6cd Bose Stereo,
    17" alloy wheels,
    sliding/flip up sunroof,
    air conditioning,ps, pw,pdlocks,tilt wheel,
    cruise, roof rack, privacy glass, alloy wheels.

    Just hit 28,000 miles, all Florida, had one accident where right front was scraped and had to be repainted, but no body damage. As well, if there are any general suggestions for getting the most of trade in value, I'm all ears.

    Thank you,
  • smokey75smokey75 Member Posts: 434
    Why don't you check the value on Edmunds under Used Cars?
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    Excellent suggestion Smokey!

    There's also the Real-World Trade-In Values discussion for cross-checking our numbers.

    Steve, Host
  • emoshunsemoshuns Member Posts: 2
    HI, EMOSHUNS from georgia. I have 2001 Pathfinder LE 3.5 engine. You have the option to purchase 4WD OR 2WD. The Limited Edition Pathfinder comes standard with a 4WD. I have a 2WD front. Pathfinder. Hopes this helps.
  • gratefuldadgratefuldad Member Posts: 17
    I really can't believe the folks at Nissan did this, but the 05 Pathfinder LE does not come with skid plates for the fuel tank or the transfer case, only the radiator and the oil pan. For that you have to get the SE Offroad. Even the 2x2 Off Road gets the fuel tank skid plate. I have punctured my gas tank before, (on the road to Crater Lake, Oregon) and trust me that is not something you want to happen. Playing high octane Hansel and Gretel is not agood idea. Although I subsequently learned that a bar of soap will fix the problem. Anyhoo, does anyone know whether you can order up the skid paltes at the aprts dept. and bolt them on. Or are they welded on. I would love to meet the genius that made that trade off. ch
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    Although I subsequently learned that a bar of soap will fix the problem

    How does that trick work? Soap will plug a small fuel leak? Does it work on oil pans?

    Steve, Host
  • gratefuldadgratefuldad Member Posts: 17
    That's what the guy who pulled the gas tank off and welded up the hole said. Apparently, gasoline won't react with the soap, unlike any kind of tape or what have you. He said to just smash it in the hole and it should keep. I am guessing it wouldn't work on an oil pan as that would get to hot. My drain plug leeks, so if anyone has a fix for that feel free to chime in. $300 for a new pan. (Another tip, if you are on the road and pull into a motel at midnight with say five gallons left in the tank, don't park you're car in the parking lot or else you will get a mean look from a pissed off clerk in the morning.) (I definately want a skid plate for the fuel tank.) ch
  • dannykadannyka Member Posts: 115
    It's the same thing for the '05 Xterra. You get skid plates standard on the Off-Road, but they're not even available on the rest of the line (XE, SE).

    --Dan
  • billshubillshu Member Posts: 3
    having read messages here and other groups I learned the dealer's service package includes some thing just for $. So I decided to do some on the manual. Here is my list and please give some advice. We used this car in normal condition, no towing.

    oil change/oil filter/tire rotation $40
    coolant chage/flush (is flush necessary?) $90 (probably cheaper do it at Jiffylube)
    change in-cabine microfilter $70
    change fule filter
    air filter (I can do it, ha..)
    Auto Transimission service (I don't know what exactly that is? change ATF?) $150
    Change drive belts (it was squealing on cold morning, although not that"squeal")
    front wheel bearing grease

    reaplace differential oil (dealer advisor said no need ??)
    replace radiator cap (dealer advisor said no need ??)

    Do I need change transfer case oil? breake fluid?

    Any suggestion? Thans here ): :lemon:

    Shu
  • pathstar1pathstar1 Member Posts: 1,015
    Coolant flush is a bit of a myth. You refill with plain water, run the engine until it's hot, and drain again. Make sure the heater is on full so it can be flushed out as well. It's hard to get the coolant out of the heads, as you have to find the two block drain plugs - one is on the front of the engine hidden in a cavity, the other is by the right engine mount. Most coolant changes done by "professionals" don't remove these plugs (the manual says to remove them). If you don't you can just barely get a US gallon of glycol back into the engine - once you rinse it out (at least once as above - I like to do it twice), pour in the glycol. Once you have the full bottle in there (giving you just under 50/50), either top up with more glycol or top up with water. Distilled water is best.

    In cabin microfilter requires removal of the glove box door. Other than that it's simple.

    Auto transmission is also "flushed" - they should be forcing trans. oil backwards though the cooler in the rad. to clean out any bits of clutch pack fibres. I don't think I've seen a filter to change, so it's just a flush and change of fluid.

    Wheel bearing grease needs to be changed - in case you "forded" a stream, but it breaks down and needs to be replaced even without the water issue.

    Diff. oil and transfer case oil is just as important as engine and transmission oil. It breaks down from the heat. The manual recommends it so do it.

    I'd leave the rad. cap alone unless it's causing a problem. It almost never gets removed (except when you change the coolant - every two years).

    Also the brake fluid should be changed - every two years is what is recommended in the industry. It is glycol based and absorbs water out of the air. This water migrates down to the calipers and lowers the boiling temp. of the fluid raising the possibility of loss of braking due to heat. It also corrodes the brake system parts.
  • gratefuldadgratefuldad Member Posts: 17
    I can't believe that the way they market the Xterra. I think the whole tv commercial revolves around taking the thing offroad. ch
  • smokey75smokey75 Member Posts: 434
    There is a filter in the transmission pan to be changed. Also, I read something from a legitimate source (I'll try & find it again) that said SOME transmission flushes can damage the system. Some of them pressurize the system above what it is intended. Besides, it's easy enough to do yourself. Drain the pan, change the filter, & replace the fluid you drained from the pan. This still leaves the fluid in the torque converter. Now disconnect the return line from the transmission cooler to the transmission & put the end in a bucket. Have someone start the engine & turn it off when about 1 quart is in the bucket. I have a bucket marked off in quarts to make this easier. Refill the quart you just drained. Continue to do this quart by quart until what is draining out looks like the new fluid you're putting in. Done.
  • xplorx4xplorx4 Member Posts: 621
    The "filter" in the Pathfinder transmission oil pan is a metal wire screen. It doesn't need replacement. Besides, servicing the "filter" isn't as simple as just draining the pan; you would have to pull off the pan to get to it.

    Others I know who have changed fluid in their own transmissions do it twice in a very short period of time. This wastes a lot of fluid, but it gets some of the old fluid out of the TC.
  • bimmer4mebimmer4me Member Posts: 266
    This talk about transmission fluid change got me to look at my manufacturers manual that came with my 2001 PF LE. According to the manual, it states under schedule 1, which is applicable to my driving habits, that the Automatic transmission & (All-mode 4WD) transfer fluid, manual transmission & differential gear oil falls under I = Inspect. Correct or replace if necessary. No where does state R = Replace, as for engine oil, air filters, etc. I've always gone by the manual, and not what the dealer recommends. IMO, they always pad the invoice with, unecessary maintenance to increase their profit. So, when should I replace my transmission fluid? Since it doesn't cleary state it in the manual.
  • pathstar1pathstar1 Member Posts: 1,015
    I wondered this too, and came up with every 30,000 mi or 50,000 km. based on other vehicles. I would think the first change should be sooner rather than later, due to "break in" bits that accumulate in the fluid. These can interfere with the control passages in the shifting system.

    Can anyone tell me which hose into the rad is the inlet and which is the outlet? I haven't seen it identified in the manual or on the hoses.

    I think it may be easiest to let a lube shop do it as they connect to those two hoses and replace the fluid using the trans. pump, persumably getting it all. My only hesitation is when I checked they all said they don't have Mobil 1. I'll ask next if they will use it if I bring the Mobil 1 trans fluid. (Lube City, Mr. Lube, etc)
  • 01le01le Member Posts: 18
    I am going to upsize my tires to a 255-70-16, I am going with the Dominator Sport C/T I found at a local Discount Tire shop. So, what is the best way/place to sell my current Yokohama Geolandar HT-S tires sized 255-65-16. They only have 5k miles on them, and they have at tread wear rating of 520.
  • gratefuldadgratefuldad Member Posts: 17
    You could try craigslist.com. Its a free community based want ads type board. No auctions or anything. Used tires is a tough market though. ch
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    First you may want to see if the tire store will take them in trade against the new tires.

    Steve, Host
  • billshubillshu Member Posts: 3
    I went to Nissan dealer to do service today, according to the manual , "Replace front wheel bearing grease", the dealer said it costs about $350 !! Lord! what the hell is that? cost that much. I didn't do it of course, before I figure it out. anyone know anything about it. Thanks.
  • tidestertidester Member Posts: 10,059
    Do you have over 100,000 miles on your vehicle? I wouldn't think you'd have to regrease the bearings any sooner than that unless you're having specific problems. I would advise getting a second opinion!

    A 1 pound can of bearing grease retails for under $30 and, even with the cost of repacking the bearings and replacing the seals, $350 sounds more like the cost of replacing bearings. The grease itself is special in that it has to withstand high temperatures. Can anyone offer more insight?

    tidester, host
  • smokey75smokey75 Member Posts: 434
    My 2001 PF calls for it every 30,000 miles, which I've done. I can't remember how much exactly... less than that but still expensive. The cost is mostly labor.
  • xplorx4xplorx4 Member Posts: 621
    $350 for a bearing repack is a lot. It shouldn't cost more than 2 hours of labor plus about $20 in parts and a couple bucks worth of grease. I just did similar maintenance on my truck this last weekend. Actually, I had to replace a front hub, but repacking the bearings involves much of the same labor (just not as much disassembly of parts). I've got some photos of the procedure on my website.
  • billshubillshu Member Posts: 3
    My 03 PF is just over 30k. I called another dealer, and someone told me I could wait until it reaches 45k-50k. I just had the 30k service, costs me nearly $700 (: , including oil/filter change, tire rotation, change ATF, differential fluid, transfer case fluid, drive belts, fuel filter.
    Besides Nissan dealer, where can I do it cheaper and trustful?
  • tidestertidester Member Posts: 10,059
    Besides Nissan dealer, where can I do it cheaper and trustful?

    I think any competent mechanic should be able to do that for you. Get recommendations in your area from friends and colleagues.

    tidester, host
  • 01le01le Member Posts: 18
    Hello,
    Thank you for the advise, I posted on craigslist for $300.00 for the set of four. The tire shop offered me $100.00 for the set.
  • alwaysfords2alwaysfords2 Member Posts: 339
    Why did you change the tires for so small of a difference? Going by the sizes you listed, you didn't change the footprint at all, and you only changed the side wall height by around 13mm, which is about half an inch in ride height, or an inch in appearance on the diameter.
  • pathalogicalpathalogical Member Posts: 34
    What exactly does this mean ? I've noticed that when I shift from P to R there is a slight pause before R actually engages, but more so when I shift from N to D, again, a slight pause before I can step on the gas. I'm due for my 18,000 km service soon and am anticipating the dealers answer of "It's normal". I have a couple of other concerns including a rattling noise when accelerating (possibly from front end) or from a loose exhaust component.

    Also, Ride Quality. This PF rides super nice on the highway, but gravel roads and the usual road imperfections...forgehdaboud !!! Not to mention the occasional set of train tracks. What could the culprit be; tires, suspension components, coil springs or shock absorbers. If I were to guess and replace one of these items it would be the shock absorbers to a more "softer" type of ride. You know, that 'driving on air' feeling. This harsh ride is my only disappointment with my PF, but I can live with it because I'm not an after-market kinda guy. I usually replace stuff when necessary.

    Any suggestions on these two topics...
  • 01le01le Member Posts: 18
    I wanted a softer ride than what I am getting with the 65 series, and the guy at the tire shop said that 255-70-16 (30.1 inches tall) is the tallest I can go with out suspension mods or serious rubbing issues.
  • 4x4buff4x4buff Member Posts: 12
    Has anybody installed Transfer case skid plate for All Mode Drive Pathfinder ?
    I have 2002 LE and I want to install transfer case protection before I hit the Moab trails during Memorial day weekend.
  • lbinhlbinh Member Posts: 190
    That is what I have on my 01LE with no problems at all. Fills the wheel wells nicely. Great looks. I have Goodyear Fortera HL 255/70/16. Speedo is slightly off and braking and accerlation has degraded slightly due to larger diameter tire. Ride is slightly softer than OEM bridgestones and all around a much much better tire.
  • 01le01le Member Posts: 18
    How has the larger tires effected your gas milage on your 01 LE. I have read on other forums that the slightly larger diameter tire increases gas milage slightly, I have also read that it decreases MPG due to the heavier/larger tire. My mechanic says that MPG is not effected by only an inch in diameter change. He says that people think they are getting different MPG because they are not properly accounting for the odometer reading change caused by the larger diameter tires.
  • lbinhlbinh Member Posts: 190
    I must agree with you. I estimate the same fuel economy because of the odometer reading being off due to the larger diameter tire(you could adjust the ECM to get correct readings). Heavier tire/wheel reduces acceleration and braking. Higher profile tire reduces cornering, higher center of gravity. All these reductions in performance are only slight. The actual added weight of larger diameter tire from 255/65/16 to 255/70/16 adds negligible more weight. I think the SUV sitting higher increases wind resistance(reduces aerodynamics) more than the added weight of 1 inch of rubber per tire.

    I have been logging miles religiously and I get around 15.5 to 16.5 MPG mostly city driving. 17-18 highway MPG. Remember that these are larger diamter tires and the actual milage should be a little more than the odometer reads. I saw a technical breakdown of the effects of tire sizes. I think I read actual milage reading will be less by 5%. So add about 5% to the MPG readings above.

    Also, I read somewhere the only thing that really decrease gas milage is if you go wider in tread. Makes sense, more contact to the road increases rolling resistance of the tire and thus decrease gas milage. Of course if you go really high profile aggressive A/T tires with the same tread width than yes, that would effect milage also. :D

    Significant increase in tire/wheel width or height from OEM adds more stress to OEM suspension componets. But, I think our 1" increase in tire height wouldn't make a difference.
  • 01le01le Member Posts: 18
    Thank you for giving feed back. I checked out the GY Fortera tires and they have an awesome side wall profile. Kudos to Good Year, however I have read on tire forums that the Forteras wear out quickly (30 - 36k miles) for it's high tread wear rating. Also I have read several consumer reviews that the Forteras go out of round early in their life. I am considering going with the Fortera instead of the Dominator Sport C/T due to the awesome look of the Fortera. Can you give me your experience so far with the concerns stated by other consumers, especially hydroplane resistance,
  • smithrhsmithrh Member Posts: 3
    Tony,

    I have a 1997 QX4 75K Miles and am having the same type of problem. Just driving and the engine shuts down. It was also dying just sitting in a drive thru at fast food resterants with my foot on the brake. No codes are present in the computer so the Nissan dealer is lost. Took it in to another mechanic and had a tune up and thought that things were fixed. Then about two weeks later the problem has come back. Did you get your vehicle fixed?

    Thanks

    Roger
  • lbinhlbinh Member Posts: 190
    I have had my tires for about 20-25K miles. Wet/dry/snow traction is awesome. Hydroplaning is minimal to none. This is a comparsion to OEM Bridgestone Dueler HT. Tire wear is good, IMO. tread still looks pretty new. i conservatively estimate about another 30-35K of treadlife left, easily. I drive conservatively due to gas prices. tires are perfectly round, smooth, and absolutely minimal noise. I rotate/balance every 8K miles from Discount Tires. Remember, I have low miles on them so you be the judge.
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