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Jeep Grand Cherokee

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Comments

  • barlitzbarlitz Member Posts: 752
    I just purchased a 1996 grand cherokee laredo with select trac 4x4. Its got 99700 miles and truck seems to be in mint condition, dealer replaced cat converter.I paid $8495.00 that also included a wynns 2 year or 24000 mile bumper to bumper warranty with no deductible. I already own a 2001 Jeep Wrangler Sport which is a great truck, a little small though for going on trips with a couple of passangers. I did notice some ticking coming from engine of laredo, its the inline V6. But I also hear the same ticking from my Wrangler which has the same engine with 7500 miles on it, so I'm assuming its a normal sound. Am I correct on that?
  • abc246abc246 Member Posts: 305
    I am thinking of trading my 99 Blazer in on a 99 JGC Limited V8 Quadra-drive with 52k miles. I am worried about the reliability of the JGC, specifically the rotors and rear axle. My Blazer has 70k miles and had many problems when new, but since 36k I have only had to replace the water pump.

    I took the JGC for a test drive and when ever I off the gas to coast there was gear wine. Rattles from the center console and glove box area also annoyed me. It is fully loaded and priced very reasonable. I do drive off road, but the Blazer only had to be towed out once so I guess that it is adequate. I really like the look of the JGC, but not sure what to do. Consumers Reports gave the JGC is minus rating off the chart for reliability, is this SUV really that bad?
  • kevin01kevin01 Member Posts: 1
    Hey there. I was wondering if any of you folks with late model Grand Cherokee's had experienced a rattle in the dash. I would almost characterize it as simply a squeak, but I'd rather have some direction before I go spraying WD40 everywhere. It seems to originate on the left side of the dash (possibly even further left than the wheel) and, as I said, it's almost more of a squeak than a rattle. Any help you can provide would be most appreciated.

    -Kevin
  • billwfriendbillwfriend Member Posts: 44
    The drivetrain whine when coasting is a "design flaw", but not an intrusive noise if the radio is at a listenable level. Perhaps your driverside rattle is the radio "base" vibration rattling your power mirror arrow buttons. Just put a little something (folded paper, little piece of sponge, etc) between the buttons and the rattle is no more. Jeep factory rotors will warp slightly creating a slight vibration in the brake pedal and a minor shimmying in the steering wheel during breaking. Not a safety concern though, just a minor nuisance. Solved with a pair of aftermarket replacement rotors. Glovebox rattles are usually attributed to either something inside the glovebox rattling, or loosened screws, try tightening those.

    Looking for accurate used selling prices? Edmunds TMV is your most accurate gauge of what you should pay for that used vehicle. Kelly Blue Book is way to high, and the Black Book is accurate only on some vehicles.

    My 2000 JGC Laredo is still a MUCH better vehicle than Ford and GM "Midsize" SUV's (which rattle, creak, bounce, jolt, and break, reminding me why foreign products are so popular).
  • leo948leo948 Member Posts: 38
    rattle-free dash on my '01 jgcl. i remember looking up something about a low-pitched humm that i heard from my dash (lasted a couple of seconds) and later found out that this is the ABS system doing a self test each time the jeep starts up. could this be what you're experiencing?
  • abc246abc246 Member Posts: 305
    I don't think the JGC is above the GM mids or the Explorer. My 99 Blazer is the worst car/truck I ever owned and it is MUCH better than the JGC I drove. I just read Edmunds long term test on the JGC. Every month they complained about the driveline noise- now I know this is not the SUV for me. My Blazer is Lexus like compared to the JGC!!!! I am giving up on the JGC and going to look for a Pathfinder or 4Runner.

    By the way, I tested a brand new 6 cyl JGC and the engine vibrated so much at idle the interior rattled!!!
  • rb123rb123 Member Posts: 51
    Blazer better than a JGC? I think not I don't even think you can compare the two. I have owned three JGC's never had any vibration from the engine and really no problems to speak of. I also owned a Ford Explorer for a while that I did not care for, I have driven several other SUV's which includes the Jimmy/Blazer I was not impressed I will say the new Envoy and Trailblazer are big improvements.
  • tloke1tloke1 Member Posts: 185
    The Blazer's are just an "ok" vehicle. I owned one a couple years back and it is nowhere near to what the new JGC's are. Abc246, what model year JGC review are you talking about? A '99 model? You would base your buying decision today on a vehicle built 4 years ago? The '00's, '01's and '02's are incredibly reliable. The comfort, power, off-road capability and ride of the JGC puts the Blazer, and most other SUV's to shame. Not to mention 100 more things that are better. Go out and drive a 2002 JGC Limited or Overland, you won't look back.

    The Blazer I owned had a couple of annoying quirks - the brakes were so hard to press that they felt like manual ones on a very old Chevy I owned. The other and very annoying flaw was the water that would pour into the interior when the window was rolled down. No rain gutters!!! Hop in the car, take off and crack the window down a bit and "swoosh!", your entire arm is soaked. Hopefully the idiots who left this important design feature off were smart enough to incorporate it into the new Trailblazers. Believe it or not, those two reasons above caused me to sell off the Blazer while it was still very new.

    The new Explorer is garbage, I test drove many before buying the Jeep. Cheap, cheap, cheap. Low quality workmanship, uncomfortable seats, the inconvenient and moronic multi-step tilt wheel lever, hard-to-reach seat controls, gas filler on the passenger side (!!!!) and the list is endless. My favorite Explorer feature was the much-hyped 3rd row "fold-flat" seats. All the brochures showed a nice flat floor with the seats down. But in real life the seats do not fold flat. In fact not even close, an unbelievable engineering gaff. I have to wonder about the morons at Ford who came up with such a brilliant idea but then obviously went home before they tested the final design. How did this pass QC? I had to laugh when a salesman told me, after I was pointing out the not-so-flat seats, that "they all come out, they are removable". The new Explorer was not very thoughtfully designed, you can easily tell they drastically cut corners.

    Jeep rules. The Grand Cherokee is awesome, the best vehicle I have ever owned. The new GC's have fewer problems than MOST SUV's available today. Check out the fit and finish on the new Trailblazers and compare with Jeep. The Jeep's are perfect, the Trailblazers you can tell were thrown together. Compare Jeep with fit/finish on an MDX, 4runner and other models and it holds its own right there with the best of them.
  • abc246abc246 Member Posts: 305
    I said that my 99 Blazer is a much nicer SUV to drive than the 99 JGC that I drove. I do not like rattles or noises. I have worked very hard at getting rid of them in the Blazer and do not want to do it again. Edmunds agrees that it has to much drvieline noise too. Many JGCs will not have this noise because most do not have the Quadra-drive. I think Jeep really screwed up with this option. I am not happy with the vibration on the 6 cyl or the power so that leaves the V8. Many V8s have the Quadra-drive that I find used and too much noise.

    Say what you want, but Consumers Reports rates the Blazer more reliable that the JGC. I have driven new JGCs that were very solid and that is why I went looking at them, but they don't seem to age well. My past cars have been Toyota/Nissan trucks, a Supra and an Accord. The JGC has poor resale value and was able to get very good prices on Limiteds. The Limited I was looking at is now 48% of MSRP (that is not trade-in either) and is in great shape. I will not buy a new one and take that hit in resale value and have it end up with all these noises. The American manufactures still have no clue.
  • akanglakangl Member Posts: 3,281
    I purchased a 98 Grand Cherokee in November, it had 49K on it and is a 6-cyl. The engine ticked all the time, I was told it was normal. I did a tune up....plugs, plug wires, cap, and rotor, at about 60K, I used Bosch platium plugs. The ticking went away after that and never came back.

    I have had to make one repair to my Jeep in the 7 months I've had it.....the oil pressure sending unit....cost $34 and took 5 minutes to replace. (no, I'm not a mechanic)

    My Jeep currently has 67K on it and runs perfect, it averages 20 mpg and I run synthetic oil. Can't complain, I love my Jeep.
  • sakinoshsakinosh Member Posts: 34
    I have recently been looking into purchasing a 98 Limited 4WD with the 5.2L V8 engine. It has 66k miles and is in AWESOME shape. Silver ext/grey interior leather. I must say, you definitely get the bang for your buck.
    I am just EXTREMELY concerned with the reliability of the thing. According to two ex-car mechanics that I work with they said "Stay away!" There's rotor problems, intake manifold leaks, rear end problems, tranny issues, etc.. Apparently, even the Durangos around this time weren't the greatest either. And unfortunately, I'd say about 75% of the past posts support that claim. But like the other 25%, I love this thing! The power's awesome, the sound system rocks, the luxury is great, and the memory seats and steering wheel radio control are top notch.
    However, being the sole source of income of a family of 3 (and soon to be 4), I don't want to purchase something that will be a hassle a few thousand miles down the road. Should I be this concerned?? Please help with any input - positive/negative.
  • sebring95sebring95 Member Posts: 3,241
    Just wait for the front door to fall off. Buddy had a '97 and he drives alot of highway miles. Typical GM stuff (starter, waterpump, alternator, battery, 3 sets of rotors and equal number of pads) in the first 100K, but after that it went completely to pot. Front door wouldn't close past the first catch, had to have the thing taken apart, welded, and new parts. Then the tranny went at 120K and then he started having overheating problems due to sludged up engine. That was the first vehicle he didn't put 200K on before scrapping. And oh my, rattles aren't even the description for the noises that thing made even at fairly low miles. My in-laws '99 JGC Ltd was quite tight when they traded at 85K a few months back. Always had the gear-train whine but if that's the draw-back to climbing snow/icy hills like a goat it was worth it to them. Plus it could tow two horses quite well in a pinch. I'm not aware of anything that compares to a V8 JGC in terms of power, ability, and comfort. Several makes have the comfort down to a science, but stick lame V6's in them. The new 4runner coming in the fall should be good competition. I may wait until the fall to see if it's worth it. Overall I agree the domestic SUV's aren't as reliable/tight/etc but Toyota/Nissan doesn't have much available with a real motor. Anyone that intends to tow is limited to a full-size or a JGC unless they want an V8 explorer but like mentioned above, those are pretty much cheaply built fleet vehicles in my book.
  • abc246abc246 Member Posts: 305
    Don't even think for a minute that I think the Blazer is a good SUV. GM should be forced to buyback every one of them on the offset crash test score alone. They are pure junk in my book. Now, to my surprise, I have been test driving some used JGC Limiteds thinking I was going to upgrade and found that vibration and gear whine is like driving a 20 year old pickup truck. I am trying to buy American and I don't think I will be able too. If I was going to use this SUV off road 100% I would buy the JGC, but I plan on doing a lot of highway driving at high speeds. You should hear these Jeeps at 85 mph, they actually sound like something is going to lock up. Do they make non Quadra-drive V8s? Would the noise be less?
  • paramedic99paramedic99 Member Posts: 64
    MY 02 JGC has the pitiful stock CD deck and speaker system. I should have known better. BUT i have a new Eclipse that I plan to install. HAs anyone popped the rear panels to replace speakers OR can you steer me toward some instructions on this ?

    Thanks
  • sebring95sebring95 Member Posts: 3,241
    My in-laws ltd did not whine anywhere near a level you're describing and it was the quadra-drive. There was some whine, but was most noticable when coasting. I had her well into the 85+ range on a few trips and it was fairly quiet. I think you're driving some well ragged machines, and my in-laws are not easy on a vehicle by any stretch of the imagination. I'm not sure what was available all years, as it's changed. Currently you can get V8 with the Selec-trac. I know prior to '99 you could get a V8 with the Selec-trac because that's what they had before this last one.
  • jbaderjbader Member Posts: 2
    Hi,

    2001 JGC. The dealer replaced the master brake cylinder but the pedal can still be depressed to the floor.

    There is also a whooshing sound from the pedal when it is depressed.

    Any ideas?
    Thanks,
    Jack
  • eenglisheenglish Member Posts: 22
    To paramedic99. Here's some info on speaker replacement.

    The pictures didn't make it

    I have a '99 JGC and replaced the stock tape deck with a CD player.

    If you have the same stock speakers as my 99, you might hold off on changing the speakers until you change the deck. The kid that changed my deck at the Best Buy said it had a built in power amp and the speakers were very good.

    Personally I think after changing the deck the speakers sound great. Even my son thinks they're great and he had a custom system in his car with a bass tube and mine blows it away.

    REMOVAL

    Instrument Panel Speaker

    1.Disconnect and isolate the battery negative cable.
    2.Remove the top cover from the instrument panel. Refer to Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators/Instrument Panel/Instrument Panel
    Top Cover Replacement for the procedures.

    Instrument Panel Speaker Remove/Install

    3.Disconnect the instrument panel wire harness connector from the speaker wire harness connector.
    4.Remove the two screws that secure the speaker to the top of the instrument panel.
    5.Remove the speaker from the top of instrument panel. Front Door Speaker

    1.Disconnect and isolate the battery negative cable.
    2.Remove the trim panel from the front door.

    Front Door Speaker Remove/Install

    3.Remove the four screws that secure the speaker to the front door inner panel.
    4.Pull the speaker away from the front door inner door panel far enough to access the front door wire harness connector.
    5.Disconnect the front door wire harness connector from the speaker connector receptacle.
    6.Remove the speaker from the front door inner panel. Rear Door Speaker

    1.Disconnect and isolate the battery negative cable.
    2.Remove the trim panel from the rear door.

    Rear Door Speaker Remove/Install

    3.Remove the three screws that secure the speaker to the rear door inner panel.
    4.Pull the speaker away from the rear door inner panel far enough to access the rear door wire harness connector.
    5.Disconnect the rear door wire harness connector from the speaker connector receptacle.
    6.Remove the speaker from the rear door inner panel.

    INSTALLATION
    Instrument Panel Speaker

    1.Position the speaker onto the top of the instrument panel.
    2.Install and tighten the two screws that secure the speaker to the top of the instrument panel. Tighten the screws to 2.2 Nm (20 in. lbs.).
    3.Reconnect the instrument panel wire harness connector to the speaker wire harness connector.
    4.Install the top cover onto the instrument panel. Refer to Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators/Instrument Panel/Instrument Panel
    Top Cover for the procedures.
    5.Reconnect the battery negative cable. Front Door Speaker

    1.Position the speaker to the front door inner panel.
    2.Reconnect the front door wire harness connector to the speaker connector receptacle.
    3.Position the speaker onto the front door inner door panel.
    4.Install and tighten the four screws that secure the speaker to the front door inner panel. Tighten the screws to 2.2 Nm (20 in. lbs.) .
    5.Install the trim panel onto the front door.
    6.Reconnect the battery negative cable. Rear Door Speaker

    1.Position the speaker to the rear door inner panel.
    2.Reconnect the rear door wire harness connector to the speaker connector receptacle.
    3.Position the speaker onto the rear door inner panel.
    4.Install and tighten the three screws that secure the speaker to the rear door inner panel. Tighten the screws to 2.2 Nm (20 in. lbs.) .
    5.Install the trim panel onto the rear door.
    6.Reconnect the battery negative cable.
  • eenglisheenglish Member Posts: 22
    I can't take it any more

    I recently gave my 99 JGC to my son and bought a Highlander. I couldn't take the reliability problems.

    I have 30,000 miles on it and I'm on my 3'rd set of new rotors and they're warped after less than 5,000 miles; even with replacing the pads and putting on the 'good' rotors and I baby the brakes. Replaced both windows motors, front differential overhaul, wiper problems so I can't see in the snow and other problems.

    The Jeep looks a lot better that the Highlander and will probably be better off road than the Highlander but it just isn't fun to drive it any more. I'm always waiting for something else to break and start feeling the inevitable brake pulse.

    Doesn't DC care that I personally short circuted 5-10 sales?

    I wanted to buy American but it doesn't make any sense. In between Toyotas I bought a Buick and it was junk and I bought a Taurus and it was junk. I thought I was insulating myself from the new model problems by buying the old design I6 and transmission, but that didn't help much.

    Although it seems like a lot of people can say "ya, I have to replace the brakes every 5,000 miles, I need transmission overhauls in the time interval you might expect a brake pads, I can't open my window, but I love it."

    I can't in good conscience recommend a Jeep to anyone and wouldn't even have given it to my son if I hadn't done the only smart thing I did in the Jeep dealership and got a 7yr/100,000 mile warrantee.
  • kdshapirokdshapiro Member Posts: 5,751
    3 years going off lease. Ltd with Quadradrive and V8. When I first picked up the car I had the dealer replace the front leather seat. 12,000 front rotor problems - dealer fixed under warranty. Drive train whine. Every SUV I been in in three years had it, even a Lexus RX/Highlander, CRV, Escape, Explorer. I now am sensitive to it on a lot of cars as well. It comes with the territory. The whine on mine was about par, especially given the fact this thing went through 12 inches of snow like a goat. The air conditioner blows like a freezer, and the heater like a sauna, but the ATC did a lousy job of keeping the car at any comfortable level that I choose.

    Three years later. I haven't been to the dealer in about 8 months, as I brought the car into local oil change places. (edit - when I walked into the dealer today my service advisor remembered me after after 8 months) My five star dealer changed my oil gratis most of the time anyway. Rear passenger window doesn't work and rotor problems. That's it. I don't quite call this a problem vehicle. All cars have problems. Friends Honda tranny went after 2 years and my cousins Honda was just bought back under the lemon law. My mother drained her battery because she left the interior lights on in her $40K RX-300. Never happened to me in my Jeep.

    That's the other side of it. I would have bought another Jeep in a second, but we wanted 7 seats and more cargo room.
  • bigorange30bigorange30 Member Posts: 1,091
    I have a friend that has a 2000 JGC. She told me that she has to get new rotors every time whe gets the oil changed (4000 miles) She is now on here 6th set at 24 K miles. What's up with these rotors? Is there a recall or TSB?
  • kkuligkkulig Member Posts: 150
    Bigorange30...

    Warped brake rotors have been a chronic problem on DC vehicles ever since they started putting them on vehicles in the 60's, and on every JGC since they came out in 93.

    Someone out here once wrote a very technical post on why this is happening. I'm not a metallurgist like this guy appeared to be, but in a nutshell, here's why DC hasn't and won't do anything about the problem...

    The name of the game today in the corporate world is "cost reduction" and to "maximize profit" and they lean quite heavily on their part suppliers to lower their production costs. The end result is cheaper material, less material used in the part, fewer machining steps, etc.

    Take all the complaints on JGC axle whine for instance. DC leaned on Dana Corp to cost reduce the axles they supply. There were several good articles on this awhile back. Dana changed from a traditional cast iron differential housing to one made from aluminum. They also eliminated several machining processes in production... all to reduce DC's cost. The end result is a noisy axle. Dana's reputation and stock price has taken a major hit for this in the last couple of years.

    Brake rotors are made so cheap and thin today that you're barely able to machine turn the rotors once to try and eliminate a warpage problem. Remember how many times you could resurface a rotor in the 70's if this problem appeared? You could easily expect a 50-60K mile life from a set of brake rotors back then. At least you could on a GM vehicle that is.

    The other reason DC won't address the problem is that they tell the dealers not to replace warped rotors if over 12K miles because they're a normal wear item and not covered beyond the basic 12K warranty. That's the loophole they use to weasle out of the problem. That's corporate policy and you can rest assured that this is the same approach used by the other vehicle manufacturers. DC isn't the only one with brake rotor problems.

    At best, they'll offer to turn the rotors because that's cheaper than replacing them. They know that it's a temporary fix but are hoping that it will last beyond the 12K warranty limit. After that, it's your problem and you're on your own. A voluntary recall and replacement would obviously be very costly. That certainly doesn't fit in well with today's corporate policy of maximizing shareholder/corporate profit margins.

    So what are you gaining if you can get the dealer to replace the rotors? Nothing. The Mopar replacement rotors are every bit as poor as the OEM rotors (same supply, right?). All you're doing is starting the brake rotor problem all over from the beginning. You'll be right back to square-one after only a few K miles of driving. If you have to replace rotors, go with any decent aftermarket rotor. It'll cost you a fraction of what the dealer will charge and I'd be willing to bet (from my own experience) that you'll never have a rotor problem again.

    As for recalls on the rotors... the only one I'm aware of was one issued for 93-97(?) vehicles sold in the "rust belt" states that use a lot of road salt in the winter. They claimed that the rotors could excessively corrode and the rotor could end up separating from the hub. DC had to replace those rotors. If there are any TSB's, they probably say nothing more than the rotor needs to be resurfaced.
  • milousmilous Member Posts: 39
    paramedic99, here is a page with some detailed info and photos for the JGC audio system:

    http://www.wjjeeps.com/jlaudio.htm
  • paramedic99paramedic99 Member Posts: 64
    Thanks alot for all this great information. I will try the factory speakers first as you suggest - maybe they with a new deck will sound better. Thanks again I will keep you posted.
  • paramedic99paramedic99 Member Posts: 64
    THanks for the info. The pictures are great.
  • kw_carmankw_carman Member Posts: 114
    A relative of mine's co-worker has a JGC (95 or so) with 150,000 miles on it for sale. I have always thought that the Grand Cherokee looked nice, but have heard of all of the gaud-awful problems. He is selling it for $3500. It was used as a salesman's car for a local air conditioning company, and is in great condition. I don't know much more, but it sounds like a great deal. I would like a JGC or something similar to be the car I take to college. Should I look at it?
  • erickplerickpl Member Posts: 2,735
    I have a 2000 JGC Limited with the Quadra Drive. Patriot Blue, grey leather, towing, everything... just want a DVD in it now. :)

    My problems are such:
    leaks from the differential (front) and transfer case
    dead battery

    Other than that, it is has been a great vehicle. The tranny is quiet on our car and we live in the mountains. If somebody is replacing their brakes every 4000 miles, I would suggest they start driving with their foot off the brake pedal. :)

    We use the tranny for slowing down on the hills, letting the engine compression do it's magic. After 59,000, I am having to finally start looking at replacing the pads. There is no rotor issue at all on my car.

    The leaks piss me off, but we knew of transmission issues with Jeeps from the get-go. We bought the 7/100 warranty too. Best thing we did.

    -Paul
  • tidestertidester Member Posts: 10,059
    paul,

    You might instead say the leaks upset you, annoy you, make you angry, enfuriate you or drive you crazy. :-)

    tidester
    Host
    SUVs; Aftermarket & Accessories
  • fastdriverfastdriver Member Posts: 2,273
    tidester HOST-

    WHY? "Piss me off" is more with today's vernacular and to the point! ;-)) Don't tell me this is going to be banned too?

    fastdriver
  • tidestertidester Member Posts: 10,059
    Nah - it won't be banned and I'm not making an issue of it. I was just offering alternative forms of expression which I think are more becoming of GCers! :-)

    tidester
    Host
    SUVs; Aftermarket & Accessories
  • erickplerickpl Member Posts: 2,735
    Okay, to rephrase my emotional condition... :)

    The issue of fluid containment in my 4 wheeled propulsion mechanism effected my bodily condition to react in a similar fashion. :)

    I will add though, that since my last service, no new leaks have shown up. I believe that the last time around, I made such an issue of it, they examined and I believe replaced all the seals on my transmission to keep it from happening again. Kudos to them for taking a proactive approach and keeping me out of the shop for that.

    Now... my battery died. :) Replaced it with an Interstate and everything is great again. I've never had good results with batteries in American (GM and Jeep) vehicles. I consider it a wear and tear item.

    -Paul
  • tidestertidester Member Posts: 10,059
    Nicely done!

    tidester
    Host
    SUVs; Aftermarket & Accessories
  • fastdriverfastdriver Member Posts: 2,273
    erickpl-

    Nah.......... too wordy! PO'd was more to the point without excessive verbiage! ;-))))))

    fastdriver
  • tidestertidester Member Posts: 10,059
    Some of us prefer elegance! ;-)

    tidester
    Host
    SUVs; Aftermarket & Accessories
  • fastdriverfastdriver Member Posts: 2,273
    tidester HOST-

    :-)))) I seem to have lost my class!

    fastdriver
  • zonkzonk Member Posts: 208
    A rain/windstorm passed through yesterday while my wife was out driving her 2000 JGC. She heard a sharp crack and saw that the passenger side mirror had been busted. If the electronics are ok, can the mirror only be replaced, or does the whole assembly need replacing?
  • milousmilous Member Posts: 39
    Yes, you can now get just the glass replaced:

    OUTSIDE REARVIEW MIRROR GLASS REPLACEMENT
    Date: 09/2001

    Bulletin # 2302701

    Model year(s): 1999-2002

    Description: Outside rearview mirror glass replacement.

    Details: It is no longer necessary to replace the entire mirror assembly when the mirror glass is broken or is missing. Mirror glass holders are now available from MOPAR.
  • kw_carmankw_carman Member Posts: 114
    I am looking around and researching at used JGC's (mostly pre-redesign ones), and was noticing the dreadful reliability problems on certain models. From what I have seen, 1997-98 were its better years as far as reliability goes. Can somebody help me out?
  • cdh2513cdh2513 Member Posts: 1
    I am in the process of purchasing a 2001 JGC. Thought I would check to see if this is a good idea. This one has a lot of options: White, 31k, V8, Factory 10 disc CD and cassette, leather, power sunroof, heated seats, cruise, tint, etc.

    The asking price was 22K but the dealer will go for 20K - sound reasonable?

    I appreciate any feedback - I am new to SUV's and I don't want to regret my decision.

    Thanks in advance.
  • kdshapirokdshapiro Member Posts: 5,751
    A couple of months after I got my 99 JCL LTD, backing out of the garage the passenger mirror caught the side of garage. Ouch. Busted the mirror to pieces but the exterior was untouched. $135 later dealer replaced just the glass. Since then I've learned to watch where I back up. :)
  • tloke1tloke1 Member Posts: 185
    "Busted the mirror to pieces but the exterior was untouched. $135 later dealer replaced just the glass"

    I think that dealer bent you over a long, long way...
  • kdshapirokdshapiro Member Posts: 5,751
    The labor was only $30. I didn't feel like going to the junkyard to get a mirror replacement. What would be the price of a heated passenger mirror in a LTD?
  • paramedic99paramedic99 Member Posts: 64
    CD deck went in without a hitch. Links and photos were helpful. Took 15 minutes for the wire harness, and another 10 in the car. Everything is perfect. A few comments on the process:

    1 - Jeep changed the antenna lead to a female end so to get it into the male end after market leads you will need an adapter/extension $15. Why Jeep ever did this is a mystery to me.

    2 - new wire harness lead is nice. Instead of the 2 piece lead from the Jeep its 1 piece, makes the old Chrysler standard 2 part harness obsolete but is easier to work with.

    3 - Finally logic. Lovely that the harness has a chassis ground as opposed to the atypical secondary lead in Chrysler vehciles. This works much easier.

    Again, thanks. Piece of cake job. Now I move forward with the rear speaker upgrade ! Wish me luck.
  • zonkzonk Member Posts: 208
    I thought only the mirror glass was needed for my replacement. The auto glass place was going to charge me $38 for the glass and installation. When the glass guy went to put it in, he told me that the frame was also missing and I would have to go to a dealer. So,I did and the mirror/frame (one piece) is going to be in on Thursday. Cost is $69 plus tax. The parts guy then said something strange. If I only had to buy the mirror, it would cost double that. Something doesn't make sense.
  • darionldarionl Member Posts: 3
    Hi everyone, just reading through the forums a bit as I'm thinking of getting a 2002 JGC when the big sales start towards the end of the model year. I rented one a few times for snowboarding trips (a 02 Laredo V6) and loved the vehicle, and for the price I felt it was a great deal. However, like most people considering a JGC, I'm really worried about the reliability.

    Does anyone know if the 2002's are more reliable/have less problems then the previous model years? I've heard of so many problems with the JGC it's kind of scary to consider buying one.
    Thanks! :)
    Darion
  • paramedic99paramedic99 Member Posts: 64
    Well thats a question that many a poster has asked. Interesting. It may be largely too soon to tell. My 02 has 8K on it and no problems/issues. Undoubtedly there are 02's out there with more and less miles on them.

    My opinion on reliability is this. Jeep has the 3/36 and the 7/100K warranty going. Thats alot of coverage for most anything. All SUV; will have maintenance and many of the competitors that are perceived as better are probably not a true SUV.
  • nikiblue1nikiblue1 Member Posts: 44
    Hello darionl. DC is fully aware of all the reliability problems. They know because they have to buy a lot of them back. That is why they are offering 100k mile powertrain warranty--to build consumer confidence. Buying JGC is a gamble. You may get a perfect vehicle with zero problems or you may get a lemon and have a monthly appointments at the dealer like I did. There is nothing in between you either get a good or a bad vehicle. So if you are willing to take a chance do it, but keep in mind that you make have to go to the dealership on a monthly basis to get all these repairs done even if they are covered under warranty. Think of lost time. IF you MUST have one--LEASE it. Another thing to consider is depreciation value. JGC loose their value very quickly. Just look at classified and JGC prices--Cheap. Wonder why? Think twice!!!
  • kkuligkkulig Member Posts: 150
    I have only about 2K on my 02 JGC and no trouble so far. It's still too new to tell. From what I've seen and heard, the 02 is much more reliable than the 99-01's. Also much quieter. I'm enjoying mine.

    You can spend all your time reading the posts or researching the lots and like many people out here say, you could get a good one or a bad one. That holds true for any vehicle, not just the JGC.

    When you look at all the complaints on these boards that people have on the JGC, you also have to realize the sheer number of these vehicles that are on the road. While there are many owners that complain, there are many more that don't. I'm not saying these aren't legit complaints, but it's human nature to complain faster than it is to praise something. Go look at any other make SUV topic out here and you'll find just as many complaints on them as you see here. Does that mean that all of these are bad vehicles also?

    IMHO, there isn't a better built American SUV on the road than the JGC. Overall build quality is much better than Ford or GM. I can't speak for the foreign SUV's as I've never owned or driven one. I'm perfectly happy with my JGC and I feel no need to look for that elusively better one out there that doesn't exist. I feel this way even after I had a 98 JGC go back under the lemon law.

    Leasing a vehicle as nikiblue1 suggests isn't a smart option for most people. You are still responsible for your payments and maintenance if you get a bad one. You can't walk away from a lease any easier than if you bought it outright. In many instances, state lemon laws offer more legal recourse to the owner of a purchased vehicle than a leased one.

    Depreciation applies to a lease as well as any other method of ownership. While I don't doubt that DC's problems with Jeep have affected resale value to some extent, it's no better or worse than anything else out there. Overall resale value in general has taken a big hit in the last couple of years. Not so much because of quality or reliability issues... it's because the used vehicle market has been flooded with all the vehicles coming off lease. The market is looking at having to absorb 3-4M vehicles coming off lease next year alone. As someone who bought a vehicle the old-fashioned way, I wasn't happy about this fact at all when I traded my immaculately-kept 99 in on my 02. So, put the blame for poor resale value where it properly belongs.

    Keep it simple... buy and drive what turns you on. As far as vehicles go, it's all a crap shoot anyway.
  • fishrxmanfishrxman Member Posts: 31
    I am on my third JGC. My '93 JGC Laredo had the 5.2L v8. Aside from the expected first year problems, it was a very reliable vehicle. I sold it and bought a 2001 JGC Ltd and had nothing but problems. So, I traded it for a 2002 Ltd. No problems so far (7800 miles).

    In spite of the problems with my '01, JGC is the vehicle that best fits my needs. It is comfortable, roomy, and powerful. It pulls my 16' runabout with no trouble. I never worry about getting to work, even in Milwaukee's worst winter weather. I can, and do, go places off road that were in my dreams with my old Toyota Celica. The Infinity sound system is excellent.

    I am accustomed to the higher maintenance costs and lower gas mileage of a SUV (compared to a sedan or coupe). It seems that 'some' drivetrain and wind noise are inevitable.

    When I first compared midsized SUVs (1993), Explorer had more cargo room, but wasn't as smooth a ride. Toyota 4 Runner was underpowered, cramped, and couldn't tow a rowboat. Chevy Blazer still had hubs that had to be locked for 4 wheel drive. While these vehicles have improved over the years and other SUV wannabes have joined the fray, only Jeep melds good looks, smooth ride, power and 4WD.

    Define your needs, wants, and price limit. Compare to other midsize SUVs. I concur with kkulig and paramedic99 posts. I still think Jeep GC is the best of the lot.
  • nikiblue1nikiblue1 Member Posts: 44
    Hello kkulig,
    1. I agree with you that any manufacturer can have a good/bad vehicles. When you buy JGC, you are more likely to get a bad one.
    2. In re: built quality of JGC vs. other makes. I have a nissan, and two of my friends own fords SUV. Not a single problem with all three. Thank God. Go read Toyota LC, Nissan PF, Ford and other SUV messages, you will not find very many complaints. Yes, they will have some here and there, but not as much as for JGC.
    3. With leasing. It is true it is not the best way to own a vehicle. Your payments never end. BUT at least if there are lots of problems you can get rid of it at the end of a lease and not worry about. If you buy one, you will definetly loose money on resale. Check the prices of foreign SUV resale. When I had my Toyota truck, I sold if for half of the price I bought it--7 years later and 150k miles on it.
    4. Mileage my JGC averaged 15 mpg all the time, my PF 17-21 mpg.
    5. JGC looks, power, and gadgets still beat any SUV, BUT it is not worth the extra stress and problems.
    Just my 2cents.
  • tidestertidester Member Posts: 10,059
    If you buy one, you will definetly loose money on resale.

    But, if you buy, you at least have something of value to resell. You have nothing of value at the end of a lease.

    tidester
    Host
    SUVs; Aftermarket & Accessories
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