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My 2000, 4.7 litre get 19 overall, 22 hwy, 17/18 city againg we are not heavy footed
To those ends, we will be shutting down the general make/model discussions and work exclusively with specific issues. This requires us to populate the make/model subsections with relevant, interesting and timely topics. Rather than having the hosts simply create boilerplate topics for each make/model, we feel that you, the owner, the make/model enthusiast and the prospective buyer can best judge what those topics should be.
You can help by adding a discussion (it's easy!) or suggesting one here.
To add a discussion, click on the last link in the "You are here" line at the top of this page. That will take you to the topic page for this make/model. Review the list of topics and click on the "Add discussion" link when you've decided what topic you'd like to add. Follow the directions and you're done! Feel free to add more than one. Just avoid duplicating existing topics and try not to make it TOO specific!
Your help and continued participation in the Forums is greatly appreciated! Thanks.
Jeep Cherokee and Jeep Grand Cherokee
tidester, host
Personally, I am looking forward to a test drive and I may trade-in my Hemi for the Mercedes diesel....better gas mileage and longer distance between fill-ups...longer engine life...
....sounds good...
Start vehicle and remove radiator cap. Run until the coolant level in the radiator starts flowing when the thermostat opens at 195 degrees. If you see no coolant flowing after 30 minutes you may have blockage in the water pump or heater core. To test shut off vehicle and remove heater hoses from heater core ports at firewall.Then butt the hoses together with some copper tubing and clamp tight.Start engine and again with the radiator cap removed look for flow in radiator. If still no flow water pump is bad, if coolant is flowing, then heater core is bad. Replacing heater core requires removing the front dash to replace. That will cost you around $300.00, mostly labor and maybe $100.00 for heater core. The test verifies the function of thermostat, water pump and heater core in the coolant path. The other problem is obvious leaking fluid from hoses(radiator and heater)or crack in engine block. Hope that helps.
Has anybody else noticed this on there Jeeps?
2006 Jeep
http://rides.webshots.com/album/548697188kmhzhY
Production on the 2007 diesel Grand Cherokee has been pushed back until Feb. 22/07....
Cost for replacing timing chain or belt $350.00 approx.
Cost for replacing ECM (new) $650.00 (junkyard) $200.00
Since your vehicle is a 1994 and depending your mileage and how frequently you change your oil, I would suspect the timing chain first. ECM rarely fail. I hope this helps.
Debbie
- Can the factory navigation unit be dealer-installed in a 2007 that came from the factory without navigation?
- Are the steering wheel cruise control buttons illuminated at night?
- What kind of real-world gas mileage are folks with the 4.7 liter V8 getting?
- Are there any common reliability issues that I should be aware of?
Thanks for your help!
- Mike
1) I am curious to know the real workd mileage in city driving?
2) Any known problems with the 2007 model?
Thanks!
Any known transmission/stalling issues with the 2WD GC (2005 & 2006 model years)?
Thanks!
Thanks in advance
At times, when crusing at around 70 mph, the transmission seems to slip in and out of overdrive, not really bad, but it is noticeable. I was wondering if any of you guys were experiencing any of the same issues. Not sure if it's a sensor or not as it shifts fine any other time, no stalling issues or anything of that nature. It has 121k highway miles on it. Any suggestions or help is definitely appreciated in advance. Thanks...
BUT, since then, that's when it has started. Great idea. Thanks
if so you could have installed the filter wrong has to be installed right
if you have the 45rfe trans you put the o ring seal on the oil pump then install filter (don't install on filter put on pumppick up) also did you use the right trans fluid? atp type 3 plus or atf type 4 (not dextron Repeat not dextron)
tidester, host
SUVs and Smart Shopper
Then depending on your mileage and whether you are towing a boat on a regular basis, yes changing the fluid and filter is the best idea. Even flushes require a filter change. Do that second.
Then if it still occurs....
Your problem could be the Transmission control switch or sensor that talks to the computer in your vehicle. If it is intermittent(electrical connection) or temperature sensitive(i.e. only slipping when transmission is running hot or cold, or when transitioning from cold running to warm running to normal operating temperature)it could cause the problem your having. However you will need a dealer or transmission shop to verify it. Dusty road conditions, vibration, water, sandy conditions could make the connections intermittent. The transmission control switch is usually located under the vehicle mounted to the transmission housing. If it does not do it at low speeds, have a mechanic check for loose connections or even shorted wiring harness that could be touching the engine chassis.
Talk to a mechanic about the issue using my recommendations and write down what you observe. Then that will give him a better idea of where to look. Chances are your transmission will not need to be rebuilt. This is just 2007.You model year was built in 2004. Transmission don't go out in 3 years. If your vehicle has something is really wrong. :lemon: I hope what I have stated helps.
I've read a few other experiences where the transmission filter should be changed and the "O" ring installed properly. Is anyone familiar with this solution?
Yes, there are two seals or O-Rings for the overdrive piston in your transmission. If they are worn they need to be replaced. Since the speed range you mentioned between 55-75 will engage the overdrive, this is a area that could cause the problem. The short answer is to service the Overdrive Clutch Unit. That will require the transmission to be removed and this unit removed to be rebuilt. Inside this unit it has many seals and O-Rings that affect the overdrive unit. Here is the list:
Overdrive Clutch-Clutch Pack Worn- rebuild of clutch pack
Overdrive Piston or Seal malfunction-Either a worn piston or seal(Transmission must be disassembled)
Overdrive Piston-Retainer Bleed Orifice worn (Transmission must be disassembled)
Overdrive Shift valve,Timing Valve or accumulator malfunction- Valve body has worn accumulator seals requires overhaul of valve body
Only two conditions require the transmission to be disassembled. Either way it is not going to be cheap.
I would replace the filter and fluid immediately and drive under the same conditions you mentioned as see if that corrects the problem. :confuse: If not then the other issues need to be explored further. :sick:
Thanks.
Search is your friend. The above page has the changes for 2008.
And as a bonus it won't get my post deleted