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Comments
Bought in 09/00
I had almost 10000mi on it now.
Glad to say not a single rattle, love the v8 and so far it's one of the best vehicle I had ever owned. Only problem is the rotors need replaced every 4000 mi or so (under warranty).
I want to let the folks to know that there are happy/lucky owners and a lot of problems you read from this forum do exist, but it seems that the first run of the current model in 1999 was a bad batch . My brother's 1999 V8 with QD had all the whining and rotor problems you read about.
But in this part of the continent where I live now is dominated by SUVs and I am surprised that 99% of the GCL are V8 QD (not QT or Select Trac) and I haven't heard any owners complained about it. I tend to believe that the whining and spotty
quality control is not wide spread in the GCL platfrom and I think you will get a perfect GCL or a very bad one - nothing in between.
This contrast with my 93 GCL I-6 which had every single problem you can see on this forum except the engine and the tranny (thank God).When you sit in the driver's seat, everything you see --- every gauge, radio (7) , computer, cruise control, horn etc etc had been replaced or repaired at least once . I put on 140000mi before I traded it in for the 2000 .
I got the "Single Swept Side" model which they say is their quietest one.
I love it! It has a big, mellow sound that's mainly heard from the back, so yes, normal conversation is possible. It's louder than stock, but not annoyingly so. There is no resonation in the cab at all. It's loudest when under full acceleration but it sounds so cool it always makes me grin like a fool! Once I get over 60 mph the sound mutes to a slight drone.
The name of the system is a misnomer in the GC's case as it exits straight out the back like the stock pipe. But it looks so much better! The kit comes with a polished stainless tip & looks great!
Gibson claims (for our truck) about 10-12 extra horsepower at the wheels, 15 extra lb. ft. of torque & about 1-1&1/2 more mpg. I can't confirm those numbers, but I do know acceleration from a standing start is much quicker (& again it sound so cool!) & I'm passing other vehicles more quickly & I get up to 60-65 mph faster than before, so I'm pretty impressed with the power increase. It's definitely noticable.
Sorry to ramble on so much, but I would definitely recommend that you check out the website, email them (they are very helpful) & go buy one! The dealer I went to installed it in under 40 minutes & was very meticulous.
In case you can't tell, I'm lovin' my Gibson. *grin*
Has anyone here had any experience with this type of system? I'd like to know what the drawbacks are - does installing one violate the warranty, can it damage the spark plugs or other electrical components?
I'd appreciate it if anyone who knows anything about this type of product could respond.
Thanks.
leo
The B&B Triflow (I think that's the name) is almost $700, & that's w/o the installation!
Do you have the 6 or the 8? I'm not sure if Borla makes a catback for the 6, check it out.
I'd suggest going with the entire catback system, not just the muffler. Headers would be great too, but Gibson doesn't make 'em for the GC. Too much $$ for me now, anyway. Maybe when the originals go...
As for the K&N intake, again, they don't make it for the 6 cyl, only the 8 so I'm outta luck there too. I just have the regular K&N air filter & I'm hoping they make the FIPK for the 6 cyl soon.
Have you priced the screw-type blower yet? How much do they go for? & how much performance gain is there?
I'd appreciate any info you may have.
Thanks.
warped rotors, rough idle, lousy gas milage, sloppy steering, slow window motors, leaking trans, leaking ps, ac always under repair, fog lamps just fell out, rust. where does it stop??
anyway, now when it gets driven for say over 1/2 hr or so and hiway or city, a sharp turn produces a lurching as if the wheels were oval. jeep says front transfer case and $1,000....anyone have similiar experience?
I purchased my Jeep with 36K from the dealer in Winston Salem. Good folks, bad product.
Here is the list of things that I have had to deal with since I bought it (glad I bought the extended warranty too):
38,000 miles: Much spark knocking begins. No noticible smoke from tailpipe. Take it back to the dealer to have the intake manifold gasket replaced. Engine had run almost completely out of oil during this fiasco.
55,000 miles: Front end is roaring like a herd of lions on the plains of the Serengetti. Dealer replaces hub, pinion, and carrier bearings in front end. Interior light that stays on all of the time is fixed, and I am told that my ABS pump and controller unit may soon need replacing as the light has been coming on since Friday evening. This little piece of information could eventually cost me around $1500 in parts. Don't know what the labor will be like. I think that I am going to fix the problem by covering up the ABS light with electrical tape. Did you know that ABS stuff isn't covered under an extended warranty package?
I am EXTREMELY disapointed with this vehicle. As far as size, styling, power, and comfort goes, it's a great. That does not, however, out weigh the reliability issue. Three MAJOR problems under 60k. I suppose that I have been spoiled by my last two vehicles that hit 100k with ner a problem. The Chevrolet went on to see 237k. I think that I am going to try to find that little old lady that I sold it to and ask her if I can have it back...
for some performance numbers (for a supercharged v-8) you can do a search for 'jeep grand cherokee unlimited' and you'll find a nice custom job put out by chrysler (i think).
happy reading...
You might want to re-think the aluminized system, tho - from what I've heard/read, aluminized systems will only last about 8 years or so, whereas stainless will outlast your truck! I was gonna go with aluminized, but there was only about a $90 difference in the prices, so I went with the stainless. But that's your call, obviously. The prices you quoted are a little lower than my dealer's prices, so that's a great deal.
As for the Flowmaster, my understanding is that they are very noisy, inside & out, which I don't think is what you (or your neighbors) want. I think you'll be happy with the Gibson. I have a K&N air filter also, tho to tell the truth I can't tell if it makes any difference in performance.
My next "upgrade" (possibly) is a Jacobs Electronics "Ultra Team" computerized ignition system - also supposed to boost hp, torque, mpg & a bunch of other things. I'm still checking up on it.
Yeah, let me know how it goes. Have fun!
Sounds like a nice Jeep you got there.
My GC is a Laredo in Patriot Blue (duh) with taupe interior. I got the F package plus leather heated power seats, the Infinity stero w/cd & steering wheel controls, sun roof, Select-Trac & a full size spare with matching wheel.
Except for a few problems here & there it's a great truck. *keeps fingers crossed*
Low gear is only meant for travelling very slowly, say going up a steep hill or travelling slowly on ice or snow. You are correct in stating that you can only shift into low gear at low speed.
Steve
Host
Vans, SUVs and Aftermarket & Accessories Message Boards
I just paid $906 to have these three issues addressed, but the dealer service only worsened the symptoms as they were unable to figure out the problems.
My wife was impressed by the look of the Grand Cherokee. It seems that may be the only positive thing about the vehicle - how impressive it looks in the driveway. (We spent $1500 repainting the vehicle after your paint peeled off.) We thought, at first, it may offer additional security in that people passing by may think someone is home. Given the reputation of your product, it is more likely that potential burglars will suspect the owner is an idiot and stuck in a bedroom closet with drool cascading down his shirt.
Furthermore, I would recommend that your designers increase the size of the glove box, as all of the service bills no longer fit inside.
I am deeply concerned about the reputation of your product and the long term impact of assembling shoddy vehicles. Even the list of recalls and bulletins is far too long to read in a single sitting.
What can I do to address these issues. I am growing tired of spending all this money for something that barely rolls down hills.
Please advise.
VIN 1J4GZ58S6PC101666 (Note the last three digits)
But that is not why I am posting. Can someone tell me where the temperature probe is located on my vehicle. This is the sensor which is connected to the overhead console and gives the outside temperature reading. I just love this feature on my jeep, as I am an avid weather buff, so I was just curious if anyone knows where the sensor is located. I looked in the owner's manual to no avail. mdjeepman/Greg
A year back when I was in Nashville, I had taken it to a few dealerships for repairs to this (almost 6-7 times). At first, they said that there's nothing wrong with the transmission. When I went again and again, they said "okay, we found out the problem, some cable in the transmission was faulty, it needed some adjustments". I happily started driving home and found no improvement (or maybe neglegible). The problem was still there. Then I took it for repairs a few more times and every time this same thing happened, they would adjust some cable and say it's alright now and it won't be any better.
Sept 2000, I moved to Minneapolis. Took it to a dealership. They found the problem and fixed it. I was so happy that it's gone. Drove my jeep thru the winter without any kinda problem, but now this transmission problem has reappeared. This Jeep dealership charged me around $70 for adjusting some pressure cable, said it wasn't covered in the Chrysler Service Contract (Max Care) which I have till 60k miles. I dint dispute this charge with DC, 'coz I was happy at least my jeep drives fine. But now that it has started again, I dont want to spend money on fixing it. After all, why did I spend a grand on buying the Service Contract?
Anyway, this is the story so far. I know many people have had this problem before (saw it on edmunds' townhall itself). Can someone explain what exactly is wrong and how it has to be fixed... permanently? If some part, such as torque converter and/or some cables, have to be changed, I'd like to tell the dealership to do that. I dont want my Jeep to have any problem when it goes out of that Service Contract period in Feb 2002.
(I'm sure, the explaination/solution to this problem will benefit many.) Thanks in advance.
Russ.
Scan from service manual
cheryl
- Gas mileage (over the last 4,000 miles): 17.3. The best I've gotten is 22 mpg in cruise control at 62 mph (not too often!). Most driving is suburban: mix of fast highway and local stop and go driving.
- Repairs and adjustments: none (I'm not counting the license plate bolts - they weren't factory-installed!).
- Service: 3 oil changes and a tire rotation.
- Brake condition: no signs of wear, no pulsing or squealing.
- Differentials: no signs of whining.
- Accesories: I bought the cargo mat and rear mesh net to confine the dog to the rear. She's happy and the seats stay clean. I also bought the bicycle rack which attaches to the hitch. It's a little pricey, but it works fine, even on the highway.
- Most liked features: comfortable seats, huge side view mirrors, all the electronics (key-controlled memory, steering wheel radio controls, etc.)
- Options I like: awd performed like a champ in the winter, heated seats, moonroof.
- Options I would like offered: The JGC alredy offers almost everything. Speed-controlled volume for the radio would be nice.
- All in all: very satisfied.
There were a broken hose in the cooling system (from engine to radiator). Engine overheated. The hose was changed and cooling system was refilled with coolant. After starting the engine temperature is rising very quick and some hoses are cold.
What is the procedure for the airation of the cooling system? What can be the solution for this problem?
Good luck!!!
All because the asking price is high, doesn't mean the dealers are getting that price. Good luck.
I have always been using premium grade fuel (92/93 octane) but the last time I had the fuel injector cleaned was at 31k when I bought the Jeep (Aug 99) and now it has 48k. From all the discussion here, it looks like I have ignored this matter for a long time. My question was... Is it required to spend $80 for the fuel injector cleanup, or can I do it with regular use of the cans (like Redline SI-1) which will cost me much less. I dont want to ignore or compromise, if it is really required to be cleaned by the dealership. Another question, do any of the repair shops like Firestone or PepBoys do this work; if they do, they might be somewhat cheaper than the dealership.
Final question, what does cooling system flush involve? If it is just draining the antifreeze/coolant and filling up fresh, I would prefer doing it myself and saving some bucks.
Any suggestion regarding these would be greatly appreciated.
Okay, regarding the 2wd/4wd... Mine is a 2wd which I bought in Nashville. Soon after buying it, I started feeling that the vehicle skids a little on wet road. I drove slow and safe. Last year I moved up to Minneapolis. It is so important to have a 4wd, I realized. Every SUV here is a 4wd... every JGC has the "4x4" mark. I tried selling/trading mine. Many dealerships simply refused to test drive it, saying that they cannot sell it. I gave ads on the internet and in the local newspaper, mentioning it's 2wd, dint get any response. Now if I have to sell it, I'll have to take it down south where 2wd still sells. But I would sincerely suggest 4wd, select or quad, you can decide that. I realized that an SUV has to be 4wd, there will never be another 2wd SUV in my garage.
PS: Can somebody suggest me about the Fuel Injector Cleanup question #333? Thanks.
mine is a 1997 model, i bought it in aug 99. had a few months of factory warranty left on it. then it just came to my mind one day and i got the chrysler extended service contract till feb2002 or till 60k. so my jeep is still under warranty, so i dont spend anything on repairs. so i feel that buying the warranty for around $1k, was a very good decision i made.
but the fact is my jeep, inspite of getting all the attention and care, gave all sorts of problems. started with vibrations at 65mph speed. (this is a pretty common problem with jgc). had the driveshaft changed. works fine till now.
then i had problems with brakes. squeaking, pulling to either side, front rotors warped. rotors & pads changed twice. now okay.
AC stopped cooling end of last summer. gas leakage. had to take it to three different dealers to finally get it fixed.
biggest problem i've had is that the rpm fluctuates while going on an even road at the fixed speed with a fixed throttle or with cruise on. soon after that the transmission started shifting between 3rd and 4th, for no reason at all. believe me, this is extremely irritating. this started last summer. i've had to take this to the dealerships almost 10 times now. for the first few times, they said they could not duplicate the problem. then the next few times, they adjusted all sorts of cables. dint work. sept/oct2000 they adjusted some pressure cable. worked till about a few weeks back.
the problem reappeared recently. and it became severe than just shifting gears. it started getting disengaged from all gears, as if the clutch has been pressed. the rpm would go way up to 4k and the vehicle wont accelerate. this was quite risky if it happened on the highway. i left it for repairs a couple of days back and picked it today morning. this time they say the speed sensor was faulty. i drove a little in the morning, but still dont know if it's going to stay like that or the problem is going to reappear.
anyway, my point is... with so many problems, even if i want to, i cant say that it's all good to have a jeep. true, these problems can occur in any vehicle, any make. but what i see from all the postings on townhall, the jgc has far more complaints than other SUVs (compare it with 4runner and PF). jgc is certainly not an SUV one would call "reliable". if jeep has done some drastic improvement in quality of material and workmanship in the 2000 & 2001 models, i dont know. but for sure, when i change my vehicle, i'll get the new 240hp PF. i can compromise a little on the looks to get that extra bit of reliability. (well, that's just my opinion and i'm not generalizing).
on it. It has had some problems none too serious.
It use to shift hard in the winter when it was cold in reverse and first,its an automatic. Recently it started not wanting to shift from 2nd to 3rd unless I let off the gas a little. My son who know about cars changed the transmission fluid
and said there was alot of thick goo on the bottom of the transmission. Any way that cured the problem and it run fine now. I hope that helps some of you out there as I know this could have been a serious problem.
Now I am really fed up with this rpm fluctuation and gear shifting problem. After taking it to the dealership last week, my jeep started running fine. But yesterday again, it started the annoying fluctuation of rpm.
I am going to write to DC (I did that once before). And this time, it would be a little towards the harsh. I really lost count of the number of times I have taken my jeep into the dealership for fixing this problem (guessing at least 10; in almost 10 months now). Every time they do something and it runs all right for a few days, and the problem reappears.
Now the question is... Is it that none of these three dealerships (btw, all 5 star) not competent enough to find the root cause of this problem? Or is it that they do find the cause but dont want to fix it permanently?
The reason I ask is that I feel that my handbrake/emergency is not holding well. I took it to this dealership in Bloomington, MN. He said that it'll cost me money to adjust that 'coz Chrysler will not pay for adjustments, they only pay for faulty parts. They had once before charged me $60 for adjusting a pressure cable on transmission to fix the rpm fluctuation problem.
The dealerships I used to go to in Nashville (two of them), they never charged me anything for adjustments and diagnostics or any part replacement, except for brake pads which is understandable.
Now I wonder why this dealership wouldn't do any adjustments under my Service Contract (MaxCare). Any ideas, guys?
PS: Sincere advice to those looking forward to buy a Jeep GC ... DON'T !
BUT - if you read CAREFULLY, the 2001's seem to have fewer problems. At least compared to the 99's and 00's. Perhaps it is too early to tell if the 01's will be plagued with the same problems.
RE: Consumer Reports. Please don't take their findings as gospel. While they do have a large subscriber base, it is still small compared to the number of JGC's actually sold. Additionally, it is still possible for a number of dissatisfied JGC owners to skew the results of those reliability rankings. As many folks here have pointed out, you have to also factor in the individual year ratings, not just that long-term bar graph, which is averaged over all of the reported years. While it is still disturbing that the JGC did so poorly in the bar graph, it probably does not accurately reflect the reliability of the 2001's and possibly late-year 2000's.
Don't get me wrong - I am not trying to defend DC or entirely discount Consumer Reports owners surveys.
I do find it interesting when a previous Jeep owner posts a message stating all of their problems, and then describes their current vehicle (usually an import) as having zero problems. I have owned a variety of vehicles, from Toyota, Ford, Chrysler, and BMW. I can honestly say that they were all relatively trouble-free, but NONE of them had zero problems. Actually, the BMW had the most problems for me. But nothing earth-shattering, and nothing that would prevent me from buying another vehicle from any of these manufacturers. Maybe I have been lucky, I don't know. In the long run, the generally higher reliability of imports is *somewhat* offset by the higher cost for parts and labor on an import. If you plan on keeping your car for 100,000 miles, it WILL require some sort of repair outside of normal maintenance. And the same repair on a domestic is usually less than on an import. It's when the MAGNATUDE of repairs on a "bad" domestic becomes excessive that an import looks very attractive.
Also remember that there are some people who troll this group, posting fairly believable horror stories about Jeeps. While I'm sure most horror stories are true, not all of them are. There are many JGC owners posting here with legitimate gripes. Unfortunately, trollers pick up on these problems and add fuel to the fire. You can't believe everything you read.
I do wish all JGC owners who are experiencing problems the best of luck in getting them resolved.
Oh, and FWIW, I currently have a 98 Dodge Durango SLT Plus with the 5.2 V8 and full-time 4WD (I am pretty sure it is exactly the same components as Select-Trac). And I have the SAME exact clunk that 98 JGC owners get out of their tranny when shifting into reverse. So, it's not a Jeep-specific problem. It appears to be a DC issue with that tranny mated to the now-retired 5.2 V8.
(and I'm still undecided if I will actually purchase a 01 JGC)
--
Scot
Recently I changed to using 87 octane gas, instead of 92 octane. A friend of mine suggested that it might be helpful, 'coz Jeep recommends 87. I also put in a bottle of Chevron Techron fuel injector cleaner. The bottle had this note saying that due to unclean fuel injector, a vehicle may ask for higher octane gas, or may hesitate to use higher octane. I know, this doesnot make much sense, 'coz I always believed that 92 octane gas would anytime be better than 87, and good for my Jeep.
Anyway, another thing I found out. After drying out the tank and filling in 87 octane gas, I reset the trip computer. I drove with cruise set at 60mph, without much of accelerations or slowing down cycles. Can u guess how much mileage my Jeep (4.0L) gave? Believe it or not, 27.5 mpg. And no, this is not over a few miles, it's the economy over full 50 miles.
I just thought I'll share this with you all.
My all-time hi was last year on a trip to Boston where I got 22.4 mpg.