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Mercedes-Benz M-class (ML320, ML350, ML500 and ML55) 2005 and earlier

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Comments

  • drew_drew_ Member Posts: 3,382
    The MCS unit is made by Alpine, but the radio component module is probably still made by Panasonic. The Bose option adds Bose tuning + specialised components to this headunit. The ML's Navigation system is made by Alpine. The user interface is nearly identical to Alpine's own brand of GPS nav. head units, as well as Acura/Honda's.


    Drew
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  • drew_drew_ Member Posts: 3,382
    I highly recommend that you ask your question in the Leather seat maintenance discussion topic here in Town Hall. There are some extremely knowledgable individuals in there. You may want to address your post "traderalex", of example.


    Good luck!

  • drew_drew_ Member Posts: 3,382
    I use a power inverter to power my notebook computer on the (rare) occasions that I need to use the computer in the car (while it's not moving of course). No problems whatsoever. I have heard that one should not use an AC/DC power inverter too frequently for a notebook computer as it ruins the battery pack. Whether or not this has any truth to it, I don't know. If it is, it probably also has to do with what sort of battery it is. FWIW, my electrical engineer father was very sceptical of this when I asked him about it :-). If anyone else hears/knows otherwise, feel free to let me know.
  • drivenowdrivenow Member Posts: 45
    A few questions on the Sport Package: 1)Do the V rated tires really improve performance, and will they wear significantly faster? 2)Is it worth the $3350 3)Will the illuminated running board (MB accessory) be available with this Sport Package (extra cladding at wheel wells...) and if yes, will they look OK? 4)The vehicle will be used primarily by my wife (2 kids/car seats, doggie...) and she is neutral on her opinions on the Sport Package 5)Will the Sport Package hurt resale value? 6)Will MB accessory Mudflaps look good?
    Thank You
  • birgerbirger Member Posts: 80
    Marcus,

    welcome to the club - good to see a Brit here!

    It can be done, but it will cost a LOT of £££, and as Ken pointed out, you'll lose the spare. I think that performance might also suffer, as the 270 CDI engine is not tuned to the ML 55 exhaust system.

    I suggest you cheat (because I agree with you that the lone exhaust looks a little silly): The LH side cutout in the bumper must be a MB part - easy to swap. Try if the chrome end tip is also listed (I would think so), and get a friendly technician to custom-make a tube to the right angles etc - it could be fitted to the frame quite easily. And you have your second exhaust!

    Of course it's cheating, but IIRC, the Queen Mary had one of four smokestacks that was actually added for esthetic purposes ;-)

    Birger
  • johnnnycjohnnnyc Member Posts: 166
    It's partially correct..

    Rechargeable batteries, dependent on the chemical composition, can develop 'memories' - where if you don't discharge them fully before recharging them, they won't give you the full capacity on the next discharge.

    This was more the case with NiCD (nickel cadmium) batteries. Most modern notebook computers are not NiCD based, so there's no concern of memory developing.

    As far as an inverter - don't have my ML yet but I have a boat, and I use my notebook on it all the time. Works like a charm - here's a hint though - don't go cheap. Spend at least $50-100 on a decent inverter. Don't buy a $20 special then wonder 'why is my notebook on fire?!'
  • johnnnycjohnnnyc Member Posts: 166
    Thanks all for the good Nav info.

    Drew - I've seen the MDX's Alpine system, but never an aftermarket Alpine installation. I hear they're very nice.

    I heard all sorts of complaints on how difficult the ML nav was, but I'm guessing this was pre-Alpine (which was introduced in 2000?).

    Two of my concerns - one, cost: they don't give you all the CDs, just the one for your region, correct? At $135 a CD, that's pretty hefty, isn't it?

    Two - the need for DVD - if MB goes to a DVD based Alpine next year, I'm hoping it'll slap right into my MCS, and I can get the whole damn country on one CD. Should be faster too, since the density of a DVD is much greater than that of a CD-R, thus making it faster to read.

    Too bad I had to juggle a budget to buy this car - could have gotten REAL interesting if I had another 3k to play with and didn't want the extended warranty.
  • noelbongnoelbong Member Posts: 41
    I didn't even know there was a leather maintenance forum. Thanks, Drew.
  • kenyeekenyee Member Posts: 738
    John:
    Yes on the CD's per region. It only matters if you travel out of the area much.
    As for one DVD covering everything, we can only hope. The MDX folks have been disappointed about the spotty coverage though. It seems that Navtech supplies the data, then Acura gets to filter it. They REALLY filter it according to the last complaints I read.
    I doubt we'll see a DVD MCS in next year's model. Maybe in the full redesign in 3 years...
  • drew_drew_ Member Posts: 3,382
    The Sport Package doesn't include any special tires, they're the same as the rest of the M-class line. However, it does come with different style wheels. At this point, you cannot have mudflaps, running boards, side steps, or a brushguard if you order the Sport Package because of incompatibility reasons.
  • drew_drew_ Member Posts: 3,382
    Thanks..."memory" is not a concern of mine since my notebook has a Lithium Ion battery pack. My inverter is not the cheapest, but it's not the most expensive either. Two A/C outlets, a built-in cooling fan, fuses, and an alarm + automatic shut-off if the vehicle's battery drops below 10 volts. This way you don't end up draining your entire battery to the point that you cannot restart the vehicle.


    Drew
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  • ccweemsccweems Member Posts: 33
    Go to

    hispeedometer.com

    and look around. They offer video conversions on all BMW's (I expect that they all must be alike under the covers). Sure for $1100 it seems expensive but what alternative do we have for a dash mount monitor? Suggest that ML owners interested in the conversion email these folks and let them know that we are the largest population of vehicles with LCD screens just ripe for converson.
  • johnnnycjohnnnyc Member Posts: 166
    I dropped them an e-mail - I'm local to these guys, so maybe they can arrange for a demo.

    Actually - I thought this might be a cool way to get myself an Alpine DVD based navigation system.

    Every so often, they sell off on E-bay for $1000 or so. Combined with this - $2k gets me a navigational, dvd and TV system for the car. Not too shabby.
  • marylandml320marylandml320 Member Posts: 21
    I noticed that my headliner (after 1 year) is getting soiled in a few areas, primarly on the B pillars where the front windows roll-down. Anyone know of a good cleaner, I was thinking of a dry foam of some sort. TIA

    Dave L.
  • ml320ml320 Member Posts: 22
    image
    ML wins Off-road Worldcup.
    Let's see if the pic shows.

    Wolfgang
  • kenyeekenyee Member Posts: 738
    How about a bigger pic so we don't have use a magnifying glass? :-)
  • ml320ml320 Member Posts: 22
    Here we go:

    image

    World Cup Winner Jean Pierre Strugo's ML430


    Wolfgang

  • sequoiasaurussequoiasaurus Member Posts: 240
    USAToday had a good write up on Britax (Child seat maker) and how they are going at it hard in the US market.

    Link:
    http://www.usatoday.com/usatonline/20010906/3606430s.htm

    It's in the Thur 9/6 money section if you can still find it on newstands.
  • kenyeekenyee Member Posts: 738
    Interesting...I've never seen those alloy wheels before...
    Wonder if they'll be lucky enough to get the ML400CDI next year? :-)
  • johnnnycjohnnnyc Member Posts: 166
    The Bi-Xenons equipped with the halogen aux lamp are used for both high and low-beam. The halogens are only used when using the 'flash to pass' feature on the steering column. Got that tidbit from the 2002 M-Class brochure. Still have a couple of months until I actually get to find out for myself though :(
  • johnnnycjohnnnyc Member Posts: 166
    Since I have no car, figured it might be a good time to read up on my purchase (it'll help me pass the time.. I'm ready to go nuts over here...)

    I have no VIN, so I couldn't check the 'owners' section on MBUSA.com. Anywhere else I might find one? Do they even exist?

    Or one for the MCS? I think I might want to read up on that puppy first...

    Thanks,
    -John
  • rajesh_pappurajesh_pappu Member Posts: 13
    I bought a pre owned 1998 ML 320 with about 43k miles on it. Inspite of my reservations, the dealer insisted that I can wait 10K miles for the next oil change. Guess what, after putting on 2.5K miles, the engine oil low indicator lighted up. On visual examination, the oil looked extremely dirty. I had factory warranty on it and took it to the dealership. They said that it was a problem with the indicator and I believed that. Now 3K miles later the same thing is repeating. I have an appointment a week from now. Do any of you had a similar experience? The dealer says they use Mobil1 as the engine oil. I appreciate your help in this regard.
  • ksydneyksydney Member Posts: 11
    I'm going to be getting a ML 320 soon and was wondering about picking up at the factory in Alabama. It won't cost much as I can use some frequent flyer miles and Marriott rewards.

    My questions are: A. Is it worth going to see the plant? One of my older kids might find it interesting. B. I live in So. Cal., I'm not sure I can drive slow and steady for 2000 miles for break in. Will driving 2000 miles in 3 days effect my break in procedure?

    I saw the 2002's last weekend, pretty nice. A couple of comments though:

    The new climate control "wheels" seem like really cheap plastic.

    We looked at Fletcher Jones in Newport Beach and we ran across the most rude salesman ever. My wife and I had been looking at a ML320 on the lot for about 15 minutes. We had not been helped by a salesman yet. We were outside of it when a salesman and a "Buffy and Chip" couple walked toward the vehicle. I heard the salesman say "we'll take this one" meaning for a test drive and with key in hand walked right past us like we were invisible. My wife and I had to get out of the way while they got in and drove off. We both wern't standing more than a foot from it. The salesman did'nt say a word to us like "excuse me" or anything. What a Di*k. All he had to do was at least say hello or something...jeez. Think I'll buy mine there--no. It's too bad with their great facility that they have to act so Newport Beachey. My parents bought one there when Garth the general manager was a salesman.

    Thanks
    Keith
  • nikorrnikorr Member Posts: 23
    I guess it just can help that ,,smooth long drive,, , because if you will watch your RPM's , the engine will like that more than city driving . I did on my car 5 000 miles round trip in break period to Las Vegas with many stops in NP's . From Chicago . And on the way back (24 1/2 hour drive time) the avg. mi/gal 3 MPG better . Maybe it's normal , that you will get more MPG after break in , but I dont think it wil hurt .
  • howvoodhowvood Member Posts: 19
    I bought my ml320 last year from MB of Laguna Beach. I did call first and spoke with Lindsey who was a straight shooter. The few times we were there we were approached promptly and politely by other salespeople who asked if they could help and did not bother us at all.

    I drove it from there across country and just avoided hard throttle and constant speed which was never a problem.
  • rs64rs64 Member Posts: 64
    Try Caliber Motors in Anaheim Hills - ask for Chip. I have bought 2 cars from him in the past 10 months. Great guy, no pressure, no haggle.

    Randy
  • allen66allen66 Member Posts: 6
    Hi guys

    I recently bought a 99 ML430 in NYC (before I moved)I love the car, but I cannot get the hard water spots off some of the windows (passenger and drivers side rear windows and couple of the rear windows) I have tried variety of window cleaners but nothing doing.

    I asked my SA here in salt lake city,(ken Garf MB) and he wasn't much help. I would appreciate any comments.

    Not to change subjects but I drove this beauty for over 4000 miles (driving from NYC to CA and back to UT) most in heat over 95F and full AC. This car was flawless. Averaged around 18mpg
  • wnielwniel Member Posts: 97
    If your looking for a dealership that will treat you very well and are willing to negotiate on the price go to MB of Laguna Niguel. I have bought two MB's from them and have turned several others on to them, all with very satisfactory results.
    The salesman that I highly recommend is Bob Blake.
    You also get free wash jobs for as long as you own the car plus annual detailing.
    If you would like more particulars,you can e-mail me direct @ wniel88280@aol.com

    Wally
  • tracy_lebtracy_leb Member Posts: 39
    The first question is has anyone bothered to look at the dip stick to see what the oil level actually is?

    That would be the first thing to check.

    In answer to the question about oil change frequency: IMO only an idiot or someone who will sell their vehicle within about 50K miles of new would leave the same oil and filter in for the suggested FSS interval.

    ...Tracy
  • rajesh_pappurajesh_pappu Member Posts: 13
    Tracy:

    I have looked at the dip stick. It shows that the oil is low (below the low marker).
  • svinaiksvinaik Member Posts: 84
    Folks,

    Just put a deposit on 2002MY M320 with all options excl. third row seat.Paid $ 1K over dealer invoice and add to it a great treatment. One of the best dealer contact I can recommend in NJ. I had earlier purchased E 320 Wagon from them. Anyone wanting the lead can e-mail me.
  • luxiluxi Member Posts: 8
    Buick RDV's August sales topped M-B M-Class' and Acura MDXs. Here are the numbers:

    Buick RDV: 3998
    M-B M-Class: 3497
    Acura MDX: 3206
  • thor8thor8 Member Posts: 303
    From 12 to 20,000$ cheaper and more, that would be the logical conclusion, so what is your point?
  • tracy_lebtracy_leb Member Posts: 39
    Rajesh,

    Sorry to hear that there really is a problem. My condolences!!! Before I jump off the deep end, check for any leaks. Okay, here comes the deep end:

    What is probably happening is simply that the previous owner(s) didn't change the oil & filter frequently enough. Most likely because the FSS system did not indicate that they should change the oil more frequently. Because the oil and contaminants have stayed in the engine too long the engine has most likely suffered accelerated wear on the valves/rings. This lets oil into the combustion chamber and burns it along with the fuel. Unfortunately, this is showing itself as a normal by-product of the FSS system.

    Nice scam, don’t you think? -- No one does maintenance frequently enough to prevent a lot of wear and the vehicle engine is subjected to accelerated wear as a consequence. The second or 3rd owner comes along and is confronted with what you are. If the vehicle is out of warranty, your local MB repair facilities make a lot of $$$ rebuilding engines.

    Were it me, I'd go to the dealer and complain long and loud. I would also contact MBUSA (provided you are in the USA, that is) by both phone and letter and complain long and loudly to them as well. There is no way a car with around 50K miles should be using any measurable oil, unless perhaps it has been driven in stop and go traffic it's entire life. BTW, the fact that this does happen is why MB recently suggested using mobile 1 oil on all vehicles with FSS. Funny about that, don't you think?!

    The moral here is to change your oil & filter every 3,000 to 4,000 miles whether you use synthetic or dyno oil. Otherwise too soon you'll be looking at a major rebuild. Alternately, don't buy a used MB as there are a lot of them that have and will have this problem. Sad but true.

    Regards

    ...Tracy
  • kenyeekenyee Member Posts: 738
    If you take a look at the Explorer and JGC sales numbers, guess what you'll find? LOL. :-)
  • chaddschadds Member Posts: 11
    I find it sad when I ask a salesman about the strengths and weakness of a product and he says, "well it's done really well for us." If people shopped for themselves then millions of people wouldn't have dangerous tires on a certain SUV. There would be more than one major OS on computers. PCs would be much more advanced through healthy competition. Nature loves variety. Health comes with diversity. In nature there isn't one species of plant in one location or a disease or drought would wipe out the whole area instead of part of it.
  • drew_drew_ Member Posts: 3,382
    Good post. Thanks for contributing.

    BTW, you can copy from Microsoft Word and then copy and paste it into the text box. However, you have to first turn off Word's Smartquotes feature. As we've discussed before, those special (and hidden) codes in Word are the reasons why you have those codes in place of the apostrophes and such; they're being copied over as well.

    Hope this helps!

    Drew
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  • johnnnycjohnnnyc Member Posts: 166
    Since we've gravitated towards that topic - anyone else here do their own oil changes (in addition to FSS)?

    I was wondering what I should expect the cost to be. I've always changed my own oils (using Mobil 1) on my other vehicles, so I figured I'd continue the trend with the ML. When I initially heard that maintenance was included, I figured I could get a break.

    So I asked the salesman - 'when's the first service'. And was startled to hear 'depends... could be 10k miles'.

    WHAT?!

    Now I realize that most cars overdo it in the oil changing departments - I'm a city guy, with stop and go driving - 3500 miles could be 6 months - but other people can do that in just 3, and changing oil every 3 months is downright silly.

    Figured I'd follow the 'topsider' method I saw on the mercedescarshop website. The only thing they don't mention is cost - anyone know what oil filters and air filters cost these days?

    Also - maintenance manuals - any such things exist for the non-mechanic? I don't need a 5 volume set with every little wire detailed (unless they cost under $120 - in which case....). Something like a "Chilton's" would be nice.

    Thx,
    -J
  • dreamwinddreamwind Member Posts: 44
  • 52cars52cars Member Posts: 30
    since we are on the subject, and i am picking up my 02 ML320 next week. How often are we supposed to change oil.?

    i have 9000 miles on my clk. and i have not changed any oil yet. according to its computer, my next service is in 1500 miles.

    i know ML doesn't have the same system as in clk, but it will "TELL" you if the oil is bad. isn't it?

    anyone has any problems if you just go by the FSS?

    i would like to hear from the real people, not the dealers :=)

    Thankx
  • michml320michml320 Member Posts: 42
    I know it says 10,000 miles until first change but from a motorcyclist's perspective, I just have to believe it is better to change that first oil within the first 1,000 miles. Running in the new engine with that oil until 10,000 doesn't seem like good sense to me. What I may do is have my oil changed at the dealer after the first 1,000 then go until the 10,000 mark. Does anyone agree with this position? I have to believe *more* oil changes can only be helpful and not harmful in engine longevity? Thoughts appreciated.
  • johnnnycjohnnnyc Member Posts: 166
    except I'm inclined to do it myself. I'm sure the dealer won't have any problem doing it for you, but I'm against paying $100 for an oil change that I can do myself for $25 in a few minutes time.

    I'd disagree on the timing though - I think 1000 miles might be a bit premature. You do need to let the engine do some breaking in (not that newer oil will hurt that; but it will get contaminated by the engine just as quickly as the new engine oil that went in, so you're better off waiting an additional 1000 or 2000 miles).

    Anyone here know differently having tried to get their dealer to do an oil change before the FSS was up?
  • grohsgrohs Member Posts: 8
    Hi folks, new to the group, but have been reading the posts for the past couple of weeks. I have been thinking of buying a ML320 and wanted some insight.

    Regarding changing the oil within the first 1000 miles; Some manufactures, i.e. Honda use a special "break in" oil that must remain in the motor for the first 5000 Kms. Check first before dumping too soon.

    I use Mobil 1 synth. in all my vehicles, changing the oil once a year, in the spring. Doing this removes any condensation build up in the oil from winter driving. My oldest vehicle is a 95 GMC K1500 with 115,000kms, no engine problems, leaks, or oil consumption, and I pull a 3500lb boat.

    brian
  • drew_drew_ Member Posts: 3,382
    A few things...

    Andy, yes, the ML actually has the same FSS (Flexible Service System) as your CLK, so do what you've been doing for that car.

    John, here's what the FSS does. There are sensors in the engine that continuously monitor and test the oil for viscosity, quality, etc. The computer also takes into account your specific driving style, your environment and temperature, the time (from vehicle's clock in cluster), speed (from ABS/4ETS control system module via CAN), coolant temperature, engine load signal, engine rpm (from engine control module via CAN), engine oil temperature, engine oil correction factor, and engine oil level (from analog oil level sensor via engine control module and CAN). Based on all of these factors, the computer adjusts the oil change/service intervals accordingly.
  • drew_drew_ Member Posts: 3,382
    personally, for my ML.

    FWIW, I had the dealer change the oil to Mobil 1 5W30 at 3500+ kilometres on the odometer; the filter was changed as well, and I brought my own oil. Several months ago, MBUSA specified and approved only Mobil 1 0W40 and 15W50 for several reasons. At service A in March of this year with about 17K kilometres (based on the FSS' recommendation), I brought my own 8 litres of Mobil 1 15W50 and had them change it. Right now with close to 24K kilometres on the odometer, I have about 7K kilometres left to go to service B based on the FSS' calculations. Although I'm confident that the dino. oil will be just fine based on the FSS, I chose to go to Mobil 1 for my own peace of mind.

    In the US with the free scheduled maintenance, the dealer will not change the oil (for free) unless the FSS counter is below 1000 miles.
  • drew_drew_ Member Posts: 3,382
    AFAIK, no Chilton's for any late model MB vehicle. They're probably too complex. You can purchase the service manual(s) from your dealer's parts department though. I think it's available in electronic format (CD-based) or as a book.
  • drew_drew_ Member Posts: 3,382
    FWIW, a couple of people in the E-class topic cut lemons in quarters or halves and then rubbed it on the windows. Apparently it worked to get out the spots!


    Drew
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  • tracy_lebtracy_leb Member Posts: 39
    Drew: I've tried doing a copy and pasting into notepad & doing a save prior to posting. Doesn't seem to work. I can't believe (as I've said before) that the lame heads that designed the forums can't deal with modern word processors. Shoot, even 15 years ago on BBS based forums it was routinely done. What is with these guys? Is this passive aggressive behavior or just incompetence!?

    Jonnyc: WRT Topsider: The device is about $50. Mobile 1 oil is about $3.5 to 4.5 per quart. The Oil and air filters are about $5 to $10 each depending on where you buy. Air filters are no where near as critical as are oil filters, unless, of course you are in a very dusty environment.

    I use a Topsider and change the oil in all my vehicles (5) plus lawn vehicles (3) regularly. It makes the process quick, clean and of little or no fuss.

    WRT manuals, you can get the factory CD for about $100 give or take.

    FSS: All it really does is shine a light through the oil and measure the opacity. It does a very bad job.

    Oil changes: I changed the oil in my ML at the first 400 miles. There after at 4,000 mile intervals. Same with all other vehicles that use Mobile 1. Otherwise for dyno oil at 3,000 mile intervals. You really can't do it too often. Oil changes are the least expensive insurance against early engine destruction you can do. Of course if you aren't going to keep the vehicle, don't bother with anything other than the mandatory change intervals, and the vehicle will have oil consumption issues at around 40K miles or so. But it won't be your problem, right? Unless you ever buy a used MB. . .

    Regardz

    ...Tracy
  • drew_drew_ Member Posts: 3,382
    Even if you copy from Word to Notepad, you're still copying over the embedded codes. What you should do is turn off the Smartquotes feature in MS Word. Go to Tools, Autocorrect, then the "Autoformat as you type" tab. You'll see the Smart Quotes option there. Next, go to the last tab labelled "Autoformat" and do the same thing. You should not have a problem after this. The issue is that MS Word replaces the standard quotation mark with one of it's own. That's why you get the codes instead of the apostrophes. Word processors from 15 years ago didn't have Smartquotes, and BBS's from back then didn't read HTML tags.

    Regarding the FSS, it don't believe it's a light. The engines are fitted with is a special dielectric sensor in the engine oil pan, which sends electrical signals through the oil (for testing) and to the Flexible Service System computer based on the amount and type of contaminants in the oil.

    The sensor can also detect oil level, so that the computer can recognize when the oil is "topped up."a digital oil quality sensor on the bottom of the engine's crankcase just above the oil pan and an analog oil level sensor. As you know, the maintenance interval is increased or shortened depending on the operating conditions (cold starts, engine speed, etc.) or when oil has been added. Signals about engine speed, throttle opening, oil and coolant temperature are also processed by the computer, so that it can discern city or highway driving as well as any unusual strain on the powerplant.

    FWIW, some owners have over 70K miles on their vehicles (following the FSS only) and no oil consumption issues.


    Drew
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  • howvoodhowvood Member Posts: 19
    On my previous cars, mb's included, I changed the oil (dino) and filter every 2500 miles. None had any engine failures, one was removed from service with over 300K miles. Several years ago, I switched to Mobil 1 and extended the intervals to 7,500 miles, the mfg's suggested interval. Later on I visited the Mobil 1 exhibit at the LA auto show and spoke with the rep's who showed me engines that were cut in half after what I believe was 250K miles and showed no measurable wear. I asked how often they changed oil and filter and was told that they went double the mfg interval- 15K miles. I then switched my intervals to 15K or one year, whichever came first. I have been doing this on all of my vehicles for about 3 years and have noticed no negative results at this time. Here is a link that is interesting:


    http://www.mobil1-motorsport.com/products/mobil1/million.htm


    On my ML, I changed the original oil to Mobil 1, at 4,000. I would have done it at 1,000 but I bought it in CA and drove it across the country and didn't change it until I got home. I am planning to follow the FSS schedule from now on.


    My question to all of you is this: My dealer uses Castrol Syntec, not Mobil and I sort of like to use the same oil as much as possible, plus, I am pretty enthused about Mobil. If I should switch, would I run into any problems or should I just bring my own Mobil 1 when it is due for a change?


    I want to thank you all for the education I have gotten and the money saved by reading the forum.

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