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Drew
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Vans, SUVs, and Aftermarket & Accessories message boards
Good luck!
Thank You
welcome to the club - good to see a Brit here!
It can be done, but it will cost a LOT of £££, and as Ken pointed out, you'll lose the spare. I think that performance might also suffer, as the 270 CDI engine is not tuned to the ML 55 exhaust system.
I suggest you cheat (because I agree with you that the lone exhaust looks a little silly): The LH side cutout in the bumper must be a MB part - easy to swap. Try if the chrome end tip is also listed (I would think so), and get a friendly technician to custom-make a tube to the right angles etc - it could be fitted to the frame quite easily. And you have your second exhaust!
Of course it's cheating, but IIRC, the Queen Mary had one of four smokestacks that was actually added for esthetic purposes ;-)
Birger
Rechargeable batteries, dependent on the chemical composition, can develop 'memories' - where if you don't discharge them fully before recharging them, they won't give you the full capacity on the next discharge.
This was more the case with NiCD (nickel cadmium) batteries. Most modern notebook computers are not NiCD based, so there's no concern of memory developing.
As far as an inverter - don't have my ML yet but I have a boat, and I use my notebook on it all the time. Works like a charm - here's a hint though - don't go cheap. Spend at least $50-100 on a decent inverter. Don't buy a $20 special then wonder 'why is my notebook on fire?!'
Drew - I've seen the MDX's Alpine system, but never an aftermarket Alpine installation. I hear they're very nice.
I heard all sorts of complaints on how difficult the ML nav was, but I'm guessing this was pre-Alpine (which was introduced in 2000?).
Two of my concerns - one, cost: they don't give you all the CDs, just the one for your region, correct? At $135 a CD, that's pretty hefty, isn't it?
Two - the need for DVD - if MB goes to a DVD based Alpine next year, I'm hoping it'll slap right into my MCS, and I can get the whole damn country on one CD. Should be faster too, since the density of a DVD is much greater than that of a CD-R, thus making it faster to read.
Too bad I had to juggle a budget to buy this car - could have gotten REAL interesting if I had another 3k to play with and didn't want the extended warranty.
Yes on the CD's per region. It only matters if you travel out of the area much.
As for one DVD covering everything, we can only hope. The MDX folks have been disappointed about the spotty coverage though. It seems that Navtech supplies the data, then Acura gets to filter it. They REALLY filter it according to the last complaints I read.
I doubt we'll see a DVD MCS in next year's model. Maybe in the full redesign in 3 years...
Drew
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Vans, SUVs, and Aftermarket & Accessories message boards
hispeedometer.com
and look around. They offer video conversions on all BMW's (I expect that they all must be alike under the covers). Sure for $1100 it seems expensive but what alternative do we have for a dash mount monitor? Suggest that ML owners interested in the conversion email these folks and let them know that we are the largest population of vehicles with LCD screens just ripe for converson.
Actually - I thought this might be a cool way to get myself an Alpine DVD based navigation system.
Every so often, they sell off on E-bay for $1000 or so. Combined with this - $2k gets me a navigational, dvd and TV system for the car. Not too shabby.
Dave L.
ML wins Off-road Worldcup.
Let's see if the pic shows.
Wolfgang
World Cup Winner Jean Pierre Strugo's ML430
Wolfgang
Link:
http://www.usatoday.com/usatonline/20010906/3606430s.htm
It's in the Thur 9/6 money section if you can still find it on newstands.
Wonder if they'll be lucky enough to get the ML400CDI next year? :-)
I have no VIN, so I couldn't check the 'owners' section on MBUSA.com. Anywhere else I might find one? Do they even exist?
Or one for the MCS? I think I might want to read up on that puppy first...
Thanks,
-John
My questions are: A. Is it worth going to see the plant? One of my older kids might find it interesting. B. I live in So. Cal., I'm not sure I can drive slow and steady for 2000 miles for break in. Will driving 2000 miles in 3 days effect my break in procedure?
I saw the 2002's last weekend, pretty nice. A couple of comments though:
The new climate control "wheels" seem like really cheap plastic.
We looked at Fletcher Jones in Newport Beach and we ran across the most rude salesman ever. My wife and I had been looking at a ML320 on the lot for about 15 minutes. We had not been helped by a salesman yet. We were outside of it when a salesman and a "Buffy and Chip" couple walked toward the vehicle. I heard the salesman say "we'll take this one" meaning for a test drive and with key in hand walked right past us like we were invisible. My wife and I had to get out of the way while they got in and drove off. We both wern't standing more than a foot from it. The salesman did'nt say a word to us like "excuse me" or anything. What a Di*k. All he had to do was at least say hello or something...jeez. Think I'll buy mine there--no. It's too bad with their great facility that they have to act so Newport Beachey. My parents bought one there when Garth the general manager was a salesman.
Thanks
Keith
I drove it from there across country and just avoided hard throttle and constant speed which was never a problem.
Randy
I recently bought a 99 ML430 in NYC (before I moved)I love the car, but I cannot get the hard water spots off some of the windows (passenger and drivers side rear windows and couple of the rear windows) I have tried variety of window cleaners but nothing doing.
I asked my SA here in salt lake city,(ken Garf MB) and he wasn't much help. I would appreciate any comments.
Not to change subjects but I drove this beauty for over 4000 miles (driving from NYC to CA and back to UT) most in heat over 95F and full AC. This car was flawless. Averaged around 18mpg
The salesman that I highly recommend is Bob Blake.
You also get free wash jobs for as long as you own the car plus annual detailing.
If you would like more particulars,you can e-mail me direct @ wniel88280@aol.com
Wally
That would be the first thing to check.
In answer to the question about oil change frequency: IMO only an idiot or someone who will sell their vehicle within about 50K miles of new would leave the same oil and filter in for the suggested FSS interval.
...Tracy
I have looked at the dip stick. It shows that the oil is low (below the low marker).
Just put a deposit on 2002MY M320 with all options excl. third row seat.Paid $ 1K over dealer invoice and add to it a great treatment. One of the best dealer contact I can recommend in NJ. I had earlier purchased E 320 Wagon from them. Anyone wanting the lead can e-mail me.
Buick RDV: 3998
M-B M-Class: 3497
Acura MDX: 3206
Sorry to hear that there really is a problem. My condolences!!! Before I jump off the deep end, check for any leaks. Okay, here comes the deep end:
What is probably happening is simply that the previous owner(s) didn't change the oil & filter frequently enough. Most likely because the FSS system did not indicate that they should change the oil more frequently. Because the oil and contaminants have stayed in the engine too long the engine has most likely suffered accelerated wear on the valves/rings. This lets oil into the combustion chamber and burns it along with the fuel. Unfortunately, this is showing itself as a normal by-product of the FSS system.
Nice scam, don’t you think? -- No one does maintenance frequently enough to prevent a lot of wear and the vehicle engine is subjected to accelerated wear as a consequence. The second or 3rd owner comes along and is confronted with what you are. If the vehicle is out of warranty, your local MB repair facilities make a lot of $$$ rebuilding engines.
Were it me, I'd go to the dealer and complain long and loud. I would also contact MBUSA (provided you are in the USA, that is) by both phone and letter and complain long and loudly to them as well. There is no way a car with around 50K miles should be using any measurable oil, unless perhaps it has been driven in stop and go traffic it's entire life. BTW, the fact that this does happen is why MB recently suggested using mobile 1 oil on all vehicles with FSS. Funny about that, don't you think?!
The moral here is to change your oil & filter every 3,000 to 4,000 miles whether you use synthetic or dyno oil. Otherwise too soon you'll be looking at a major rebuild. Alternately, don't buy a used MB as there are a lot of them that have and will have this problem. Sad but true.
Regards
...Tracy
BTW, you can copy from Microsoft Word and then copy and paste it into the text box. However, you have to first turn off Word's Smartquotes feature. As we've discussed before, those special (and hidden) codes in Word are the reasons why you have those codes in place of the apostrophes and such; they're being copied over as well.
Hope this helps!
Drew
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Vans, SUVs, and Aftermarket & Accessories message boards
I was wondering what I should expect the cost to be. I've always changed my own oils (using Mobil 1) on my other vehicles, so I figured I'd continue the trend with the ML. When I initially heard that maintenance was included, I figured I could get a break.
So I asked the salesman - 'when's the first service'. And was startled to hear 'depends... could be 10k miles'.
WHAT?!
Now I realize that most cars overdo it in the oil changing departments - I'm a city guy, with stop and go driving - 3500 miles could be 6 months - but other people can do that in just 3, and changing oil every 3 months is downright silly.
Figured I'd follow the 'topsider' method I saw on the mercedescarshop website. The only thing they don't mention is cost - anyone know what oil filters and air filters cost these days?
Also - maintenance manuals - any such things exist for the non-mechanic? I don't need a 5 volume set with every little wire detailed (unless they cost under $120 - in which case....). Something like a "Chilton's" would be nice.
Thx,
-J
i have 9000 miles on my clk. and i have not changed any oil yet. according to its computer, my next service is in 1500 miles.
i know ML doesn't have the same system as in clk, but it will "TELL" you if the oil is bad. isn't it?
anyone has any problems if you just go by the FSS?
i would like to hear from the real people, not the dealers :=)
Thankx
I'd disagree on the timing though - I think 1000 miles might be a bit premature. You do need to let the engine do some breaking in (not that newer oil will hurt that; but it will get contaminated by the engine just as quickly as the new engine oil that went in, so you're better off waiting an additional 1000 or 2000 miles).
Anyone here know differently having tried to get their dealer to do an oil change before the FSS was up?
Regarding changing the oil within the first 1000 miles; Some manufactures, i.e. Honda use a special "break in" oil that must remain in the motor for the first 5000 Kms. Check first before dumping too soon.
I use Mobil 1 synth. in all my vehicles, changing the oil once a year, in the spring. Doing this removes any condensation build up in the oil from winter driving. My oldest vehicle is a 95 GMC K1500 with 115,000kms, no engine problems, leaks, or oil consumption, and I pull a 3500lb boat.
brian
Andy, yes, the ML actually has the same FSS (Flexible Service System) as your CLK, so do what you've been doing for that car.
John, here's what the FSS does. There are sensors in the engine that continuously monitor and test the oil for viscosity, quality, etc. The computer also takes into account your specific driving style, your environment and temperature, the time (from vehicle's clock in cluster), speed (from ABS/4ETS control system module via CAN), coolant temperature, engine load signal, engine rpm (from engine control module via CAN), engine oil temperature, engine oil correction factor, and engine oil level (from analog oil level sensor via engine control module and CAN). Based on all of these factors, the computer adjusts the oil change/service intervals accordingly.
FWIW, I had the dealer change the oil to Mobil 1 5W30 at 3500+ kilometres on the odometer; the filter was changed as well, and I brought my own oil. Several months ago, MBUSA specified and approved only Mobil 1 0W40 and 15W50 for several reasons. At service A in March of this year with about 17K kilometres (based on the FSS' recommendation), I brought my own 8 litres of Mobil 1 15W50 and had them change it. Right now with close to 24K kilometres on the odometer, I have about 7K kilometres left to go to service B based on the FSS' calculations. Although I'm confident that the dino. oil will be just fine based on the FSS, I chose to go to Mobil 1 for my own peace of mind.
In the US with the free scheduled maintenance, the dealer will not change the oil (for free) unless the FSS counter is below 1000 miles.
Drew
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Vans, SUVs, and Aftermarket & Accessories message boards
Jonnyc: WRT Topsider: The device is about $50. Mobile 1 oil is about $3.5 to 4.5 per quart. The Oil and air filters are about $5 to $10 each depending on where you buy. Air filters are no where near as critical as are oil filters, unless, of course you are in a very dusty environment.
I use a Topsider and change the oil in all my vehicles (5) plus lawn vehicles (3) regularly. It makes the process quick, clean and of little or no fuss.
WRT manuals, you can get the factory CD for about $100 give or take.
FSS: All it really does is shine a light through the oil and measure the opacity. It does a very bad job.
Oil changes: I changed the oil in my ML at the first 400 miles. There after at 4,000 mile intervals. Same with all other vehicles that use Mobile 1. Otherwise for dyno oil at 3,000 mile intervals. You really can't do it too often. Oil changes are the least expensive insurance against early engine destruction you can do. Of course if you aren't going to keep the vehicle, don't bother with anything other than the mandatory change intervals, and the vehicle will have oil consumption issues at around 40K miles or so. But it won't be your problem, right? Unless you ever buy a used MB. . .
Regardz
...Tracy
Regarding the FSS, it don't believe it's a light. The engines are fitted with is a special dielectric sensor in the engine oil pan, which sends electrical signals through the oil (for testing) and to the Flexible Service System computer based on the amount and type of contaminants in the oil.
The sensor can also detect oil level, so that the computer can recognize when the oil is "topped up."a digital oil quality sensor on the bottom of the engine's crankcase just above the oil pan and an analog oil level sensor. As you know, the maintenance interval is increased or shortened depending on the operating conditions (cold starts, engine speed, etc.) or when oil has been added. Signals about engine speed, throttle opening, oil and coolant temperature are also processed by the computer, so that it can discern city or highway driving as well as any unusual strain on the powerplant.
FWIW, some owners have over 70K miles on their vehicles (following the FSS only) and no oil consumption issues.
Drew
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Vans, SUVs, and Aftermarket & Accessories message boards
http://www.mobil1-motorsport.com/products/mobil1/million.htm
On my ML, I changed the original oil to Mobil 1, at 4,000. I would have done it at 1,000 but I bought it in CA and drove it across the country and didn't change it until I got home. I am planning to follow the FSS schedule from now on.
My question to all of you is this: My dealer uses Castrol Syntec, not Mobil and I sort of like to use the same oil as much as possible, plus, I am pretty enthused about Mobil. If I should switch, would I run into any problems or should I just bring my own Mobil 1 when it is due for a change?
I want to thank you all for the education I have gotten and the money saved by reading the forum.