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Comments
I know that I sounds ridiculous.I don't know anything about car......And I have no B.F to help me either. But I know that you guys know a lot about cars and Mercedes.
My ML320/2001 now have 4000miles.
Do I need to check oil? water? or whatever?
Or no need at this milage?
Then what milage at do I need to do these things?
Thank you very much.
While I would never fault a rigorous break-in as you suggest( It can only help an engine I think), I think yours is just a little too rigorous for most. I've owned many many motorcycles and all have varying break-ins but *none* as hardy as yours. And they rev their engines up to 12,000 rpm. My latest bike, a Honda, suggests "riding it easy for the first 300 miles". That's all the wording they provide. Then you can rev the crap out of it. I am doing an easy 1,000 mile break-in as suggested per the manual. No fast starts, vary engine speed. That's it. I'm in an ML. I don't plan on racing it from the stoplight anyway(That's what my bike is for). But again, I don't think an extended break-in can hurt although in motorcycle circles, some suggest riding it hard to start and those people feel you get more hp from those types of break-ins. I'm not that brave so I follow the manual. Besides, the ML comes with full synth from the factory now so you could probably very easily go longer than 300 miles until the first change. Just my 2 cents
http://clubs.yahoo.com/clubs/disasterinnewyork
Unfortunately with the cowards at lodge they may strike anywhere else in the world.
God Bless us all, as history has experienced Good Prevails
This break in routine sounds a bit tough - I figure I'll soften it a bit, and go with it. I don't think there's any harm in the first parts of what he mentioned (100 miles at a low RPM to get the engine started), but to go the full 9 yards without going crazy will be tough.
The best way I've found to get rid of that is to apply even MORE RainX to the window, then clean it off with a dry cloth, then use a newspaper! Keep in mind - this will require a bit of elbow grease, and you're going to have to keep polishing away until the clouds go.
The unfortunate side effect of an otherwise great product is that RainX does leave some residue on your window. The idea isn't to remove it completely, it's to buff it to the point where it's unnoticeable.
Your RainX rationale seems to be what a few others have also said. I think the concensus is to apply the stuff leaving a one inch buffer zone between the applied area and the rest spot of the wipers. Those of you who are interested in tips on RainX (including removal procedures), visit the RainX discussion topic in the Aftermarket & Accessories message board.
I'll probably get back to you regarding the phone later.
Hope this helps!
Drew
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Vans, SUVs, and Aftermarket & Accessories message boards
As far as oil changes are concerned, I did 500, 1K, and then every time the odometer is at an even multiple of 5K, each with filter and Mobil1. It's just what works for me. I Could care less if some consider it excessive. Doubtful it is harmful, and the car cost so much, I am not about to skimp on maintenance. At least I save by doing it myself. Thankfully, our town has an oil recycle center and the Top-Sider type device makes it an easy, clean choir.
I concur on RainX - use more of the stuff to clear the problems and elbow grease is a must - lots of it. It clouds until polished clear. Seems here in the northeast on the coast, the stuff does not work right on some humid mornings. Fog forms little droplets that don't shed. The windshield quickly becomes obscured and you end up needing the wipers in a condition you might otherwise not need them. Once you have had the wipers on for a while the stuff is ruined and you need to re-apply. Otherwise, the stuff works quite well in a downpour.
Plus reading it all may answer questions you didn't know you had.
When in doubt, call your dealership's service advisor.
Also, I am trading in my MY1999 ML320 (which I own outright).The trade-in should bring me about $26,500 in cash and I plan on walking away with the cash.
HELP PLEASE!!!!!!
Question, if you're accepting them -- on your Michelin Cross Terrains -- have you noticed any difference in ride comfort?
I was going to go with the Parktronic system, but the $1200 being asked by the dealer was a bit excessive, IMHO. I've been toying with the idea of adding a CCD camera type system in the back (although, it would take some hacking of the MCS to get that video signal in, not to mention effort to find a small CCD camera setup that produces an NTSC input signal).
Anyone else here have any reverse-warning/sensing/camera type setup in their M-class?
Thanks
Jack
We gave Barrier Motors a small list of three little problems. Brake problems weren't on the list.
The computer generated an error code for the brakes so they installed a new BAS-ESP sensor module or some such thing. We had only experienced an intermittent blinking of the light.
Sorry I can't be any more specific. My wife drives the car and brought it in for service too.
Yes I have looked at the MDX ( dealers have been jerks and over 55 mph it is very noisy),BMW x5 ( lots of money) and Lexus 300 which I like but it is not fun ( hard to describe).
So, Mercedes still looks good and maybe you do not feel the rocking back and forth. Wish I didn't ! I like the feel of the German vehicles. So I wondered if after market shocks or springs could help! Thanks!
Are you comparing MY2002 models?
I guess the "ride feel" is pretty subjective, but I do think the Michelin Cross Terrains ride smoother than my Dunlops. But, it's hard to say for sure--sort of wish I could throw the Dunlops on and test. The Michelins are definitely quieter.
I can't figure out why I get so much wind noise from the sun roof. I've seen complaints about the insulation tape coming off, but I've never seen this tape--I'm wondering if it's possible they forgot to put it on my sunroof. Who knows.
On a that's-odd-note, last month we took the family to the Hamptons for a week (managed not to "do a Grubman" while there {smile}) Both ways we crossed the Verazano Narrows bridge. Both on the way out and a week later on the way back, we were stuck in traffic on the bridge because of accidents on the other side. In BOTH cases, there sat a crumpled ML--on the way out there was a green one and on the way back there was a maroon one. I thought that was very odd.
Sharon in NJ
Thanks for the info. I feel I have a much better understanding of the facts now.
The pre-MY2002 ML320 has tires that are thicker. That means you will get extra rocking motion from the tall sidewalls flexing. The ML430 has thinner sidewalls which means you'll get less rocking, but will feel more of the road. The MY2002 ML320/ML500 now both have the same type of wheels so they feel more alike. Basically, you should try it and let us know if you still experience the rocking motion in the ML430 or the MY2002 MLs. Then, you'll know that changing the tires/wheels would fix it.
sharon:
Did you notice what kind of damage the ML's had and how well they held up to the crashes?
After much concern about the appropriateness the outing was held following an invocation by clergy.
Much money was raised for the Am. Heart Assoc.
But, what was most moving and what I wanted the group to know was that MB stepped up and contributed an equal amount in matching funds to the NYC victims assistance fund at the Red Cross.
Many were moved as was I.
If (a big if) price were not an option, why would anyone choose the ML320 vs. the ML500, and vice versa?
Is insurance much higher on the ML500?
I don't know if I should make the jump and go for the ML500. I don't want to contribute even more to the deterioration of our environment, yet the nagging question pursues me incessantly? Is it going to be that much of a difference (environment-wise, that is)?
Is the ML500 a safer car to ride since its "reflexes" would be better (theoretically)?
Thanks for your suggestions.
-- Gustav
Sorry!
-- Gustav
The whole issue centers around whether or not you care for the navigation system (standard in the 500, ~$1800 option for the 320) and whether or not you'll need, or want, the more powerful engine.
In my case, I felt the 215HP of the ML320 was sufficient for me. I couldn't find a 500 to test drive, but in the end, figured that the additional HP was not going to offset the extra gas costs, since I do mostly city driving.
I would say three things should drive you to get a 500 if price isn't an object - one, the value you find in the navigation system, two being whether or not you are a HP freak (in which case, every extra HP helps), and three, whether or not you do a lot of offroading or tow a boat/trailer/etc. You might want the extra torque and HP of a V8 if you're going that route.
The other differences are minor cosmetic differences between the two, but I didn't find them serious enough to merit picking one over the other. Discounting those differences, the cost differential is about ~$5k, give or take. I think it might be more, as I don't know of people dealing on ML500 pricing, versus the near-invoice pricing of a ML320. Figure that the nav system costs ~$2k, and the engine costs an extra $3k. All depends on whether or not you need the extra power for the $3k.
Good luck - IMHO, I don't think you can go wrong in this decision, unless you're towing something heavy, in which case I would say run to the 500.
What do you mean by near invoice pricing on ML320?! Did I miss a bunch of posts here or something? I have heard about one reputable internet dealer out of California who will do $1,000 over invoice, but I have not seen widespread reporting of near invoice for off-the-lot pruchases.
I got $1,000 off MSRP for the ML320 and think that is fair. I'm sure there is a way to go for an additional $500-1,000, but I negotiated a little more for my trade and think it is a fair deal (not rock bottom). I only have a non-refundable check down for now, so I can change if I am really screwed up here.
PLEASE REPLY!!!! ANYONE!!!!!!
1) CD/ navigation - in the shop three times for non operation, in one case the lid would not close
2) multiple check engine light
3) internal cowling blew off into fan belt assembly (more a function of merc service people)
3) constant rear brake squeals - Merc can seem to eliminate the rear brake squeal
4)numerous squeaks, cosmetic leather replacements etc
I never thought a merc would be this poor quality, but people have told me that having it built in the US (Alabama) has something to do with it. The car is for my wife for her safety, I am in the process of getting rid of it because of the lack of reliability. For other owners I hope your ML is better than ours but be careful of surprizes.
I've gotten $1000 over invoice for our loaded ML320 due for factory pickup on 10/29.
JB
What are the check engine error codes you've gotten?
Brake squeal can be fixed as long as your dealer is competent. There is a good they put on it.
I feel that between invoice and invoice+$1k is a fair price for a car. The only time you'll see below invoice pricing is when factory incentives are high (like end of MY), and that doesn't necessarily apply to vehicles like MB (read that: mostly domestic vehicles built by the Big 3).
I got to about $900 over invoice. I was aiming for $500 over invoice. That extra $400 when paying $43k for a car is really nothing to be upset about, although I'd rather have it than be in the dealer's pockets.
Sorry to alarm you,
-J
If only Alabama were closer to NYC... Then again, I'm sure the folks in Alabama aren't thinking that right now
By the way, my ML320 is scheduled to be built on 20 Sep and I'll pick it up in Tuscaloosa on 11 Oct.
I got a call from MB Travel Friday for any arrangements they could help with. And today I got a call to confirm the factory tour.
Only 34 more days! Sounds trival in todays terms I know.