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Mercedes-Benz M-class (ML320, ML350, ML500 and ML55) 2005 and earlier

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Comments

  • rikarika Member Posts: 8
    Hi!
    I know that I sounds ridiculous.I don't know anything about car......And I have no B.F to help me either. But I know that you guys know a lot about cars and Mercedes.
    My ML320/2001 now have 4000miles.
    Do I need to check oil? water? or whatever?
    Or no need at this milage?
    Then what milage at do I need to do these things?
    Thank you very much.
  • michml320michml320 Member Posts: 42
    Johnnyc
    While I would never fault a rigorous break-in as you suggest( It can only help an engine I think), I think yours is just a little too rigorous for most. I've owned many many motorcycles and all have varying break-ins but *none* as hardy as yours. And they rev their engines up to 12,000 rpm. My latest bike, a Honda, suggests "riding it easy for the first 300 miles". That's all the wording they provide. Then you can rev the crap out of it. I am doing an easy 1,000 mile break-in as suggested per the manual. No fast starts, vary engine speed. That's it. I'm in an ML. I don't plan on racing it from the stoplight anyway(That's what my bike is for). But again, I don't think an extended break-in can hurt although in motorcycle circles, some suggest riding it hard to start and those people feel you get more hp from those types of break-ins. I'm not that brave so I follow the manual. Besides, the ML comes with full synth from the factory now so you could probably very easily go longer than 300 miles until the first change. Just my 2 cents
  • scott902scott902 Member Posts: 46
    I was unfortunately, there in NY the day of disaster, I realize this message board is not to discuss this, however, if anyone is interested there are more and more message boards popping up all over, I just spotted this one...


    http://clubs.yahoo.com/clubs/disasterinnewyork


    Unfortunately with the cowards at lodge they may strike anywhere else in the world.

    God Bless us all, as history has experienced Good Prevails

  • johnnnycjohnnnyc Member Posts: 166
    things about the engine break in period (like don't stay at the same RPM for too long, don't go above 3k RPM, dont go below 500 RPM, etc.). Hard to judge what's sound advice from what's nonsense to what's overkill.

    This break in routine sounds a bit tough - I figure I'll soften it a bit, and go with it. I don't think there's any harm in the first parts of what he mentioned (100 miles at a low RPM to get the engine started), but to go the full 9 yards without going crazy will be tough.
  • johnnnycjohnnnyc Member Posts: 166
    my experience with the product works out this way - if you haven't buffed it enough, you'll have cloudy windows.

    The best way I've found to get rid of that is to apply even MORE RainX to the window, then clean it off with a dry cloth, then use a newspaper! Keep in mind - this will require a bit of elbow grease, and you're going to have to keep polishing away until the clouds go.

    The unfortunate side effect of an otherwise great product is that RainX does leave some residue on your window. The idea isn't to remove it completely, it's to buff it to the point where it's unnoticeable.
  • drew_drew_ Member Posts: 3,382
    Best thing to do is probably to follow the break-in procedure in your owner's manual when you get your vehicle. That's what I did...it's relatively simple too. Keep in mind also, that in Europe, many MB cars are driven to autobahn speeds almost immediately after delivery (people taking the European factory delivery do this too).


    Your RainX rationale seems to be what a few others have also said. I think the concensus is to apply the stuff leaving a one inch buffer zone between the applied area and the rest spot of the wipers. Those of you who are interested in tips on RainX (including removal procedures), visit the RainX discussion topic in the Aftermarket & Accessories message board.

    I'll probably get back to you regarding the phone later.
  • drew_drew_ Member Posts: 3,382
    I've had very good success with NoTouch's glass stripper product. It comes in a smallish black bottle with a pop-off cap and is actually a fairly thick and white liquid. After applying it, the RainX was immediately gone. You have to rinse the glass throughly after using this product since it is strong.

    Hope this helps!


    Drew
    Host
    Vans, SUVs, and Aftermarket & Accessories message boards
  • roger23roger23 Member Posts: 48
    Just read about the availabilty of a dealer installed accessory - a roof mounted rear spoiler for the the ML. Anyone have one? Seen one? any comments on the appearance &/or usefulness? Thanks! ( as I await the arrival of my ML500 sport) BTW, thanks for your helpful comments on Rain X.
  • cdiccdic Member Posts: 36
    I remember hearing that the business about not maintaining the same speed during break-in had something to do with "setting" of the piston rings? Anyone heard that one before? I can easily believe that during break-in, you should not do what you will likely not do (ie., run at the same speed) while you use the car. I mean, unlike a generator which IS run at the same speed forever.

    As far as oil changes are concerned, I did 500, 1K, and then every time the odometer is at an even multiple of 5K, each with filter and Mobil1. It's just what works for me. I Could care less if some consider it excessive. Doubtful it is harmful, and the car cost so much, I am not about to skimp on maintenance. At least I save by doing it myself. Thankfully, our town has an oil recycle center and the Top-Sider type device makes it an easy, clean choir.

    I concur on RainX - use more of the stuff to clear the problems and elbow grease is a must - lots of it. It clouds until polished clear. Seems here in the northeast on the coast, the stuff does not work right on some humid mornings. Fog forms little droplets that don't shed. The windshield quickly becomes obscured and you end up needing the wipers in a condition you might otherwise not need them. Once you have had the wipers on for a while the stuff is ruined and you need to re-apply. Otherwise, the stuff works quite well in a downpour.
  • howvoodhowvood Member Posts: 19
    The idea behind not maintaining a constant speed, as I was taught many years ago, was that when you decelerate, vacuum is high which causes oil to be sucked past the rings. During break-in, this helps to add lubrication to the rings. As far as newer engines are concerned, little break-in is needed because the cylinders, pistons and rings are truly round, as compared the the older engines. If any of you go back as far as I do, you probably recall that early engines would consume quite a bit of oil during break-in and newer engines don't. This is also the reason that synthetic oil is factory fill in many engines while if it was possible to use it in the older engines, they would never break-in properly.
  • djdjdjdj Member Posts: 111
    The best way to get all that information is in the ML's owner manual. Its very comprehensive, large but understandable.

    Plus reading it all may answer questions you didn't know you had.

    When in doubt, call your dealership's service advisor.
  • hugenesshugeness Member Posts: 12
    Does anyone have any info on leasing a MY202 ML320? On Monday I should be getting a leasing quote for the new truck and am looking for some good info. I plan on leasing for 3 years at 15k miles per year with a cap cost of $40,205 (which is after $1,000 off MSRP and my $1,000 down). What do we know in terms of money factor and residual? I don't want the finance boys trying to turn a fast buck on me at the last minute here.

    Also, I am trading in my MY1999 ML320 (which I own outright).The trade-in should bring me about $26,500 in cash and I plan on walking away with the cash.

    HELP PLEASE!!!!!!
  • wmquanwmquan Member Posts: 1,817
    Glad that your husband is okay; it does affect one's perspective.

    Question, if you're accepting them -- on your Michelin Cross Terrains -- have you noticed any difference in ride comfort?
  • johnnnycjohnnnyc Member Posts: 166
    also meant to ask - how do you like the Bosch ParkPilot system?

    I was going to go with the Parktronic system, but the $1200 being asked by the dealer was a bit excessive, IMHO. I've been toying with the idea of adding a CCD camera type system in the back (although, it would take some hacking of the MCS to get that video signal in, not to mention effort to find a small CCD camera setup that produces an NTSC input signal).

    Anyone else here have any reverse-warning/sensing/camera type setup in their M-class?
  • hawkeyeuihawkeyeui Member Posts: 2
    Has anyone experienced constant problems with their "BAS-ESP" sensor light being on constantly, along with periodic self-braking without depressing the brake pedal and/or making extreme driving maneuvers? I have many, many strange problems above mentioned. Any knowledge would be helpful. Love the acceleration and ride of the ML55 AMG, but very concerned with the "BAS-ESP" problems I seem to be having ... my vehicle has 27000 miles on it.
  • svinaiksvinaik Member Posts: 84
    I am getting my M 320 next week. I don't like the front Grill. Too plasticy & cheap looking. Will M 500 or M 55 grill fit the M 320 front and any info on how much it costs and what it takes to do it.

    Thanks
  • sequoiasaurussequoiasaurus Member Posts: 240
    It is my understanding that all the grills will fit the others. I plan to add either the Ml500 or Ml55 grill to our ML320. I believe it is about $150 and very easy to install. This is from my salesman who has seen it done by other clients.

    Jack
  • kenyeekenyee Member Posts: 738
    Sounds like you might have a bad sensor. I'd bring it to the dealer ASAP.
  • she1122she1122 Member Posts: 33
    I have been looking at probably every SUV made, for the past 8 months! I am attracted to the ML because of safety issues and good treatment by the dealers. However I have been frustrated with what I perceive as a tendency of the vehicle to rock from side to side very easily even on city streets. My friend who has ridden with me does not feel the rocking, but he is used to driveing a van. Can this be corrected by different springs/shocks? I know this is a truck based SUV, but other ones that are truck based have not felt so " rocking." If this could be corrected,I would consider buying this vehicle! Any opinions?
  • gwpricegwprice Member Posts: 14
    MBCC's tier 1 money factor is .00329, but this could be higher if you have less than excellent credit. MBCC's residual for an 02 ML320 for 36 months at 15K per year is currently 63%.
  • kenyeekenyee Member Posts: 738
    Could you tell us which models you've tried? I.e., does the ML430 do this or just the pre-MY2002 ML320?
  • johnnnycjohnnnyc Member Posts: 166
    Lemme know which of the truck-based SUVs you felt had a better ride - I went with the ML320 over the MDX because even though the ML's ride was worse, it was a bona fide truck, not a tall car with AWD. Not that there's anything wrong with that - if you don't need real truck features, then you shouldn't have them high on your priority list. But for my use, I needed something that was permanent 4WD with a good low gear.
  • eversonseversons Member Posts: 38
    We had our ML55 in for it's first service at about 14 months ~9,000 miles.

    We gave Barrier Motors a small list of three little problems. Brake problems weren't on the list.

    The computer generated an error code for the brakes so they installed a new BAS-ESP sensor module or some such thing. We had only experienced an intermittent blinking of the light.

    Sorry I can't be any more specific. My wife drives the car and brought it in for service too.
  • michml320michml320 Member Posts: 42
    Well after 2 weeks of enjoying my 2002 ML320, I see a huge need for either fender flares or mud flaps. You can't get around it it seems. This vehicle requires one or the other. Does anyone have opinions about either flaps or going with the factory fender flares? Who makes mud flaps for the ML? I'm leaning towards the factory fender flares. Any info appreciated!
  • thor8thor8 Member Posts: 303
    I was not aware that the ML rocks from side to side, that is a new one, unless you mean rocks from turning the steering wheel left and rigth sharply, if that is the case the ML behaves better than the rest. If you comparing the RX300 or MDX or similar vehicles keep in mind they are built on a car platform, basically a car on a SUV uniform.
  • she1122she1122 Member Posts: 33
    I have test driven the Sequoia, Expedition and Envoy. I liked the ride of all 3 but two of them are just too big and one has no track record for reliability and neither does its company.

    Yes I have looked at the MDX ( dealers have been jerks and over 55 mph it is very noisy),BMW x5 ( lots of money) and Lexus 300 which I like but it is not fun ( hard to describe).

    So, Mercedes still looks good and maybe you do not feel the rocking back and forth. Wish I didn't ! I like the feel of the German vehicles. So I wondered if after market shocks or springs could help! Thanks!
  • kenyeekenyee Member Posts: 738
    Again, did you try the ML430?
    Are you comparing MY2002 models?
  • sharonsharon Member Posts: 76
    Yep, accepting questions--need things to keep my mind off of everything (if possible).

    I guess the "ride feel" is pretty subjective, but I do think the Michelin Cross Terrains ride smoother than my Dunlops. But, it's hard to say for sure--sort of wish I could throw the Dunlops on and test. The Michelins are definitely quieter.

    I can't figure out why I get so much wind noise from the sun roof. I've seen complaints about the insulation tape coming off, but I've never seen this tape--I'm wondering if it's possible they forgot to put it on my sunroof. Who knows.

    On a that's-odd-note, last month we took the family to the Hamptons for a week (managed not to "do a Grubman" while there {smile}) Both ways we crossed the Verazano Narrows bridge. Both on the way out and a week later on the way back, we were stuck in traffic on the bridge because of accidents on the other side. In BOTH cases, there sat a crumpled ML--on the way out there was a green one and on the way back there was a maroon one. I thought that was very odd.

    Sharon in NJ
  • she1122she1122 Member Posts: 33
    No, I have not tried the ML 430. Is the ride different? It is a bit out of my price range but I could get a used one, if the reliability is ok.
  • hugenesshugeness Member Posts: 12
    gwprice,

    Thanks for the info. I feel I have a much better understanding of the facts now.
  • kenyeekenyee Member Posts: 738
    she1122:
    The pre-MY2002 ML320 has tires that are thicker. That means you will get extra rocking motion from the tall sidewalls flexing. The ML430 has thinner sidewalls which means you'll get less rocking, but will feel more of the road. The MY2002 ML320/ML500 now both have the same type of wheels so they feel more alike. Basically, you should try it and let us know if you still experience the rocking motion in the ML430 or the MY2002 MLs. Then, you'll know that changing the tires/wheels would fix it.

    sharon:
    Did you notice what kind of damage the ML's had and how well they held up to the crashes?
  • rockypaulrockypaul Member Posts: 104
    Had the opportunity to play last Thursday.
    After much concern about the appropriateness the outing was held following an invocation by clergy.

    Much money was raised for the Am. Heart Assoc.

    But, what was most moving and what I wanted the group to know was that MB stepped up and contributed an equal amount in matching funds to the NYC victims assistance fund at the Red Cross.

    Many were moved as was I.
  • gustavmgustavm Member Posts: 43
    Does anybody have the MPG numbers for these two models?

    If (a big if) price were not an option, why would anyone choose the ML320 vs. the ML500, and vice versa?

    Is insurance much higher on the ML500?

    I don't know if I should make the jump and go for the ML500. I don't want to contribute even more to the deterioration of our environment, yet the nagging question pursues me incessantly? Is it going to be that much of a difference (environment-wise, that is)?

    Is the ML500 a safer car to ride since its "reflexes" would be better (theoretically)?

    Thanks for your suggestions.

    -- Gustav
  • gustavmgustavm Member Posts: 43
    I meant to say "If price were not an issue..."

    Sorry!

    -- Gustav
  • johnnnycjohnnnyc Member Posts: 166
    I didn't factor environmental aspects in my decision (my opinion is that if you're seriously concerned about the environment, and don't need an SUV, then you shouldn't buy one - I don't fit that category, either in need or concern).

    The whole issue centers around whether or not you care for the navigation system (standard in the 500, ~$1800 option for the 320) and whether or not you'll need, or want, the more powerful engine.

    In my case, I felt the 215HP of the ML320 was sufficient for me. I couldn't find a 500 to test drive, but in the end, figured that the additional HP was not going to offset the extra gas costs, since I do mostly city driving.

    I would say three things should drive you to get a 500 if price isn't an object - one, the value you find in the navigation system, two being whether or not you are a HP freak (in which case, every extra HP helps), and three, whether or not you do a lot of offroading or tow a boat/trailer/etc. You might want the extra torque and HP of a V8 if you're going that route.

    The other differences are minor cosmetic differences between the two, but I didn't find them serious enough to merit picking one over the other. Discounting those differences, the cost differential is about ~$5k, give or take. I think it might be more, as I don't know of people dealing on ML500 pricing, versus the near-invoice pricing of a ML320. Figure that the nav system costs ~$2k, and the engine costs an extra $3k. All depends on whether or not you need the extra power for the $3k.

    Good luck - IMHO, I don't think you can go wrong in this decision, unless you're towing something heavy, in which case I would say run to the 500.
  • ometofuometofu Member Posts: 53
    Since we don't have an antenna.....
  • hugenesshugeness Member Posts: 12
    JohnnyC,

    What do you mean by near invoice pricing on ML320?! Did I miss a bunch of posts here or something? I have heard about one reputable internet dealer out of California who will do $1,000 over invoice, but I have not seen widespread reporting of near invoice for off-the-lot pruchases.

    I got $1,000 off MSRP for the ML320 and think that is fair. I'm sure there is a way to go for an additional $500-1,000, but I negotiated a little more for my trade and think it is a fair deal (not rock bottom). I only have a non-refundable check down for now, so I can change if I am really screwed up here.

    PLEASE REPLY!!!! ANYONE!!!!!!
  • kechalkechal Member Posts: 10
    A dealer gave me a written price quote today for an ML500 and below the quoted sales price was a line item titled "Dealer Conveyance" totaling $299. Anyone ever hear of this? It sounds like a bogus extra profit item to me. Thanks.
  • rss5rss5 Member Posts: 1
    We have a 2000 ML 430 and it has spent more time in the shop that I ever expected. I had to say that I regret buying this vehicle. Last weekend we were loaded for a camping trip to go to Yosemite and had the check engine light come on again (3rd time since we owned it). We ended up taking my Chevy truck instead. Major problems include:

    1) CD/ navigation - in the shop three times for non operation, in one case the lid would not close

    2) multiple check engine light
    3) internal cowling blew off into fan belt assembly (more a function of merc service people)

    3) constant rear brake squeals - Merc can seem to eliminate the rear brake squeal
    4)numerous squeaks, cosmetic leather replacements etc

    I never thought a merc would be this poor quality, but people have told me that having it built in the US (Alabama) has something to do with it. The car is for my wife for her safety, I am in the process of getting rid of it because of the lack of reliability. For other owners I hope your ML is better than ours but be careful of surprizes.
  • sequoiasaurussequoiasaurus Member Posts: 240
    hugeness:
    I've gotten $1000 over invoice for our loaded ML320 due for factory pickup on 10/29.

    JB
  • raybearraybear Member Posts: 1,795
    Yes, lots of dealers charge a conveyance, doc or admin fee. $299 is at the high end of average, but consider it a part of the total deal.
  • kenyeekenyee Member Posts: 738
    First thing I would do is switch dealers! Who are you using and where? Maybe someone here can give you a suggestion.
    What are the check engine error codes you've gotten?
    Brake squeal can be fixed as long as your dealer is competent. There is a good they put on it.
  • hawkeyeuihawkeyeui Member Posts: 2
    The dealership told me that the sensor was fine, but would a bad sensor make the ML55 brake on its own? I think the way I understand German engineering is that sensors detect problems, not cause them ...
  • johnnnycjohnnnyc Member Posts: 166
    I meant within $1k of it. Mostly meant to say 'closer to invoice' than MSRP, which is just ridiculous. The dealer makes close to 10% on a car sold at MSRP, which is just too much money for me to accept (on something that costs this much). Acura was a clear loser here, because not only are they clearing up, but the customer service was worse than the DMV on a bad day.

    I feel that between invoice and invoice+$1k is a fair price for a car. The only time you'll see below invoice pricing is when factory incentives are high (like end of MY), and that doesn't necessarily apply to vehicles like MB (read that: mostly domestic vehicles built by the Big 3).

    I got to about $900 over invoice. I was aiming for $500 over invoice. That extra $400 when paying $43k for a car is really nothing to be upset about, although I'd rather have it than be in the dealer's pockets.

    Sorry to alarm you,
    -J
  • johnnnycjohnnnyc Member Posts: 166
    I've been considering that trip to the factory. If I'm not mistaken, they waive the destination fee if you pick it up. Is that correct?

    If only Alabama were closer to NYC... Then again, I'm sure the folks in Alabama aren't thinking that right now :(
  • whatwasthatwhatwasthat Member Posts: 23
    Occasionally, when our ML320 idles (in drive or park) for a while (red light, stop sign, driveway), the dash lights (odometer and the like) will dim and then the idle will rev up a few hundred rpms for a second. Similar to when an a/c unit would come on in an old, small four cylinder, but this happens even without a/c or other such devices. Never stalls and never does this while actually driving (off idle), but wondering what this could be (dealer found no "codes")? Any ideas?
  • gwpricegwprice Member Posts: 14
    I'm also paying $1000 over invoice. I'm buying from my local dealer here in TX. That's about the best price I could find nation-wide (via internet and phone queries). I figure that, all things being equal, it is usually best to go with the local dealer if possible. And since they matched the best price I could find, I considered it a "win-win."
  • gwpricegwprice Member Posts: 14
    You still have to pay the destination fee if you pick up at the factory. My guess is it's used for the prep they have to do there (e.g., minor cleaning, removal of plastic from seats, etc.) and the time spent on the tour and off-road course. I could be wrong about this.

    By the way, my ML320 is scheduled to be built on 20 Sep and I'll pick it up in Tuscaloosa on 11 Oct.
  • sequoiasaurussequoiasaurus Member Posts: 240
    gwprice is correct. The fee is not waived for US factory deliveries. It is waived, I believe, in Europe. Sounds weird I know. But my dealer told me the same thing that gw says about prep, tour, etc.

    I got a call from MB Travel Friday for any arrangements they could help with. And today I got a call to confirm the factory tour.

    Only 34 more days! Sounds trival in todays terms I know.
  • sequoiasaurussequoiasaurus Member Posts: 240
    Was your office in the WTC? or nearby?
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