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Mercedes-Benz M-class (ML320, ML350, ML500 and ML55) 2005 and earlier

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Comments

  • gman20gman20 Member Posts: 2
    I have a 1998 ML320 with 72K miles. In Sept. 2001 the fuel pump failed at 62K and was replaced at my cost. In early Jan. 2002 it had to be replaced again (under warranty) and I went for the suggested fuel line upgrade. In late Jan. it failed again while we were on vacation in FL, was towed again, and replaced. In each of these instances, we were unable to start the vehicle while it was standing parked. Yesterday, while driving, the engine cut out and our ML is back at the FL dealer's shop. That's 4 failures in 4 months. They seem to be trying to correct the problem but don't seem to have a clue. Anybody got any suggestions? In a couple weeks I've got to drive back home, and frankly I'm not looking forward to the prospect. Advice will be appreciated.
  • roger23roger23 Member Posts: 48
    ML fuel pumps were redesigned in early 2000. If you are in fact getting these new pumps and hopefully in error,not 'old inventory', you should not be having this recurring problem.
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    I seem to recall a key problem, gman20, esp. with those very early models. If you have a bunch of keys on your keychain (more than 2 or 3), the key loses contact with the immobiliser system (esp. over hard bumps). If it keeps happening, the car will shut down.

    So I'd check out the immobiliser - (aka driver authorization system) or just empty your key chain a bit. Good luck.

    Steve
    Host
    SUVs, Vans and Aftermarket & Accessories Message Boards
  • ddavis001ddavis001 Member Posts: 14
    While I don't suffer from any problems aside from this creak/squeak coming from the windshield, it's enough to drive me insane! I'm tired of taking it down to the dealership at this point -- I've only been down there two times, and they have tried to fix both times and were very pleasant -- no complaints about dealership (RBM of Atlanta).

    Anyway, what I have is described more as a creak than a squeak. There is no metal involved in the creak and I can't seem to pintpoint the location. I've had my wife drive and I've tried running my hand along the areas up against the windshield/dash to see if I can make it stop... but I can't.

    Also, the creak ONLY appears to happen when the weather is cooler. If it's warm (>55 degrees or so) then this doesn't happen.

    * 1st time this occured, it seemed to be a slight creak... and then it eventually crawled all the way across the base of the windshield. Went to dealership and they sprayed some silicon down in there (or somewhere) and it went away only to come back later.

    * 2nd time this occured, it seemd to only be on the passenger side near the base of the windshield. Wife took it to the dealership and they said that a clamp was loose and then this is what was done "NON TO R&R UPPER PORTION OF A-PILLAR TO APPLY FELT AND LUBE". Now the problem appears to be on the driver's side of the car?!

    Help me fix this problem as it's extremely aggravating. :)

    Thanks!

    This is what you said about it:

    <<<<
    Spraying some silicon spray into that area (along the base of the windshield/dash) and letting it work its way in for a few days solved the probem for me. However, I did mention it at Service A. FYI, according to the work order, "A-pillar trim fit foam under dash corner to realign corner of dash. Refit A-pillar trim". The slight amount of play that used to be there is now completely gone. It is as tight as the A-pillar trim/dashboard on the driver's side. No squeaks, no creaks. :-)

    Drew
    Host
    Vans and SUVs message boards
    >>>>>
  • ddavis001ddavis001 Member Posts: 14
    When we put the ML430 into reverse and the brakes are applied, we get this tremendously obnoxious squeel from the brakes. When we are going forward, this doesn't happen.

    Can anyone offer suggestions on addressing this issue?

    Thanks!
  • dt77dt77 Member Posts: 232
    I got major squeal too !
    this occurs going forward and backward!
    turns heads.
    no warning on brake wear sensor...
    i hope it's brake dust. or else..i'm pretty much wearing out my brakes and rotors ...
    service b coming up..so maybe i'll have it checked out...

    dt77
    fullspeed.to/ml
  • dt77dt77 Member Posts: 232
    I just looked at my service record:

    Sometime last March, I had complained of brake squeak when backing up and when slowing to a stop.

    Service advisor told me rear pad need a changin'.
    The warning sensor had not come on yet, but I forget wat percentage he told me was left of it but he said it was almost down to the sensor.

    That say, my brake pads were replaced at 9962 miles. cost : $276.53 (parts and labor).

    I have pics below of the old pads - almost down to the sensor.

    *** on a side note, my fronts were replaced a few months under warranty for squeak.

    dt77
    2000 ml430
    fullspeed.to/ml
  • dt77dt77 Member Posts: 232
    steve is right about the keys. service advisor has spoken of instances where owners ml's would shut off randomly. He attributes it to having too many keys on your key chain.

    I had a fuel pump problem last year too. couldn't start car, fuel was spilling out from under the tank (the fuel line came loose after a previous service). fuel pump was replaced if i rem correctly.

    dt77
    fullspeed.to/ml
  • bertram60bertram60 Member Posts: 113
    Cassiri - I had the local tire shop install my SP5000's last week, what a difference. They are so quiet and smooth I actually enjoy the truck 100% more. I go them through the Tire rack $153 each, so there not too cheap, but it could be worse. No rain yet, but the spray pattern from wet (sprinklers) roads leads me to believe that these will be much better than Grandtreks, only down side is the side of the truck was filthy as they throw much more debris. The truck handles much better with no more of the "dead on center" feel that the stock tires had.

    Brakes - while mounting the new tires, the wheels were actually so stuck to the hubs that the shop had to use penetrating oil to help break free the hubs. They then sprayed the brakes with brake cleaner and viola, the annoying brake squeal this truck has always had disappeared (95%). Unfortunately, I need rear brakes, so I'm sure my new pads will squeal as before. (I've fought with the dealer to resolve this problem before and they were unwilling to do anything until I needed new pads).

    On my way home, I opened the sunroof and off came the wind deflector (pop-up one). I stopped and picked up all the parts, put them in the back seat, and will take it to MB to see what they say.

    SRS light, for the third time my SRS light is going off. Dealer has replaced two seat belt assemblies and now will do the rear three. They claim that the childseat may be culprit as it's always in the car! We'll see.

    FYI, i also was called about an engine cowling recall, anyone had this done yet? What was the problem?
  • mbaombao Member Posts: 1
    Hi,

    I just brought a new ML500 from a north Jersey dealer last weekend. The purchase contract says the truck has "10 miles" on it but when I got home and found its meter actually read "500" and change. I called the dealer back. They first denied saying every Mercedes was like that. When I challenged them, they admitted the the car had been used as a demo. The nav records showed this "demo" had been through many trips to Manhattan and once even to Conneticut. What do you think I should do in this situation? Please advise. Many thanks.

    mark
  • pdo90065pdo90065 Member Posts: 6
    What the @#$%! I assume the drive from the dealership to your driveway wasn't 490 miles?

    The mileage on the vehicle is supposed to be recorded at the point of delivery. So if your paperwork says 10 miles, then there should only be 10 miles on the meter when they handed you your keys and gave you your intro to the car's feature and function.

    I'm not sure, but I don't think this is legal and completely fraudulent on the dealer's part. And if so, this would also be grounds for a breech of contract.
  • lambo_oreolambo_oreo Member Posts: 15
    Just want to report the issues that I have so far on my 2002 ML 320 M1, M5, Bose:

    1. There is no "door ajar" warning light. I hate my 540 because it doesn't say w/c door is open but this is worse. You would think this would be standard.
    2. The passenger side rear view mirror does not tilt down. I had the dealer check this and they said that the M1 and M5 package doesn't cover it huh?
    3. Volume control is out of the way. Noticed that this is very popular on the list.

    Other than the above, the car is an excellent SUV.
  • pdo90065pdo90065 Member Posts: 6
    1. I was also puzzled about not having any warning light or sound when one of the doors was not shut completely. Unfortunately, you are going to have to rely on the dome light being on as your only indication that one of your doors hadn't shut properly. Good luck during the daytime though.

    2. I believe this feature can only be had with the M2 option.

    3. I too felt that the AutoPilot's automatic volume adjustments were annoying - at first. But it kind of grew on me and now I think it's quite useful. Either way, you can always have the dealership adjust its sensitivity or deactivate completely if you wish.
  • chowrchowr Member Posts: 11
    I just called my local Mercedes of Portland dealer and he basically told me that if I wanted a ML320 I had to pay MSRP. When I said that I heard people were getting discounts he said thank you very much but we don't do business that way and hung up. Is this what is going on or should I just find a better dealer?
  • mark156mark156 Member Posts: 1,915
    I got $1,500 off MSRP on my 2002 ML500 on special order in October 2001.... you can do better chowr. I waited 8 weeks for delivery. I got it a week before Christmas. The ML320's are more common and you should get a decent discount.

    M.
    2010 Land Rover LR4, 2013 Honda CR-V, 2009 Bentley GTC, 1990 MB 500SL, 2001 MB S500, 2007 Lincoln TC, 1964 RR Silver Cloud III, 1995 MB E320 Cab., 2015 Prevost Liberty Coach
  • pooliopoolio Member Posts: 18
    Where can I get the cross bars for my 2000ML Roof Rack.
  • jrosasmcjrosasmc Member Posts: 1,711
    The 1998-01 M-Class uses body-on-frame construction, right?
  • thor8thor8 Member Posts: 303
    Yes, all of them including 2002.
  • Jon90Jon90 Member Posts: 33
    Your dealer better think again. I picked up an ML500 last month for below INVOICE. I never really calculated off of msrp but it was something like $3500 or so... Go to another dealer that will respect your money as well as your decision to buy a good auto.

    Good luck!
  • kiiwiikiiwii Member Posts: 318
    If I were you, I would definitely call MBUSA to establish a record.
  • chowrchowr Member Posts: 11
    Thanks to all of you who responded to my question. Unfortunately, the response that I got from the dealer left such a bad taste in my mouth that I ended up getting a BMW X5 3.0 this weekend. I expected the most amazing service from a luxury car dealer and I got it at BMW instead. Good luck to all of you out there. I think the bad thing for me is where I live. There are only two dealers and I guess they can get away with this kind of attitude.
  • logan1602002logan1602002 Member Posts: 2
    What area is your dealer located? Did you have to negotiate to get
    the price below INVOICE? What price did the dealer initially want?
    I'd really appreciate if you could share your experience.
  • mark156mark156 Member Posts: 1,915
    Jon90, I too would like to know where you got the $3,500 off a 2002 ML500. I would say that is VERY rare. I only have one dealer in my town and there is no way they would have gone that much. I'm glad you got a good deal. I am very satisfied with mine.... the power is awesome. Now, I want Parktronic on all of my future cars!

    Happy Motoring, Mark
    2010 Land Rover LR4, 2013 Honda CR-V, 2009 Bentley GTC, 1990 MB 500SL, 2001 MB S500, 2007 Lincoln TC, 1964 RR Silver Cloud III, 1995 MB E320 Cab., 2015 Prevost Liberty Coach
  • mercaramercara Member Posts: 291
    I bought a Thule system from an online store. I don't remember the model. What you need to do is go to the Thule web site and put in the truck details and get the part number. Then you can shop around for it. If i remember the details of the model I bought, I will post it here.
  • cavman2xcavman2x Member Posts: 26
    After looking around I bought the MB roof rack Cost $268 Heavy duty 250lbs cap they lock on and are a snap to install Good luck G
  • stmarie1stmarie1 Member Posts: 4
    As a long time reader I am amazed at the early mileage writers are quoting as brake and tire replacement time. I have a 2000 ML320 with over 59000 trouble free miles. Tires hit wear bars at 52000 so replaced with original equip (Dun lops) from Sears @$72.00 ea. Brakes haven't squeaked yet although dealer said he'd like to replace pads at 50 since that was their usual policy. Since there's still adequate pad life, the Original pads are still on. I do lots of Mountain driving in Summit County Colorado, but I do downshift on long descents over passes rather than stand on the brakes.

    I ran out of warranty at 50,000 miles but other than to replace a defective nav system antenna, never needed it. This is the best vehicle I've ever owned (note "ever") and I'm in my 60's so have owned many including over ten MB products. I have an E320 which just sits in the garage since all my drivers prefer the ML.
  • ggoudeli1ggoudeli1 Member Posts: 14
    My brake light indicator has come on at 35,000 miles (99 ML 320). How much time do I have before I have to replace them and what is the approximate cost of the job?

    Thanks in advance...George
  • tidestertidester Member Posts: 10,059
    george,

    If you're lucky, it could just be some air that's made its way into your brake lines - cheap and easy to fix!

    tidester
    Host
    SUVs
  • djdjdjdj Member Posts: 111
    Even the dealer admitted MB didn't have a cure for the rattling that comes from the metal plates that cover the gap when the seats are folded down. With the seats up, every time I'd hit a little bump they'd bounce and I'd hear it. Those were the only noises left and they really bugged me.

    I finally resorted to using the bungie cords I had bought to keep luggage from rolling around. I ran the cord through the hole in each one and secured the ends to the hooks in the back.

    Now the plates are lightly sprung in the air. They lay flat if any weight is put on them but stay up when uploaded so they don't bang around. Its great now.

    On brakes, my ML320 has 37K miles on it. The dealer just said that they mic'd the front brakes and it will need servicing soon. I told him I'd wait until the light comes on and he dropped the sales pitch. I do a lot of highway driving and downshift a gear instead of braking when its safe. I believe the brake life is very dependent on driving conditions and habits.
  • mercaramercara Member Posts: 291
    Hi,

    I just ordered a tow hitch from www.clair.com. It was $250 + $14 shipping. (No
    taxes on internet sales). Dealers were quoting $295 + tax. I am going to install
    it myself. Does any one know how I can remove the rear bumber?

    Tony
  • cticctic Member Posts: 291
    Late reply: How about taping a velcro strip on metal plates. They're real cheap.
  • cticctic Member Posts: 291
    Mine came on at about 16K. It cost about $225 to have them done plus tax, just the fronts. I'm gonna check out an independent next time.

    I don't tail gate or hit the brakes hard but my wife drives like a maniac so I'd estimate 90% of the brake wear is from her.
  • psedrishpsedrish Member Posts: 49
    My wife was ready to get out of her original SLK. We replaced it with an '02 320 in Designo Savanna with everything except Parktronic. The Nappa two-tone seats are sweet, and the whole Designo effect makes the move from sports car to truck less painful (I didn't want her to think it was 'cause she was getting too old for a cool car). Anyway, it's the 1st M Class I've really liked and I got a great deal to boot (in Mobile).
  • cdiccdic Member Posts: 36
    Anyone here ever replace the front brake pads themselves? Is it easy like other cars? My ML430 is at 14K and they are squeeking a lot (especially in reverse). If you go to the MB parts desk, do you have to ask for anything else besides a brake pad set? My last SUV was a Toyota. Brake pads were real easy to replace, but if you got the pads from a generic parts store, all you got were pads. The Toyota parts department gave you a pad kit with replacement spring clips, shims, special grease etc. What does MB give you with the pads?
  • thor8thor8 Member Posts: 303
    Are you sure you need brake pads? Brake squealing is caused by high frequency vibration between the pads and the rotor because the pads wear at a slight taper from front to back, at low pressure the front end of the pad is free to vibrate,(the pad is tapered because the front is what comes in contact first and friction tends to grind into the pad at the leading edge) in reverse the taper effect is more pronounced, I bet if you brake hard there is no squealing, that is because the full pad is pressed against the rotor and no room to vibrate.


    Here is a company that sells a compound that should help, it goes on the back of the pad, acts as a cushion allowing the pad to make full contact a lower pressures.


    http://www.noisefree.com/

  • psedrishpsedrish Member Posts: 49
    Do the Sylvania near-xenon bulbs work out okay in a new ML with std lighting?
  • scot29scot29 Member Posts: 7
    According to a quality report leaked in Germany, Mercedes quality has taken a big tumble.


    http://www.detnews.com/2002/insiders/0202/18/insider-419985.htm

  • cdiccdic Member Posts: 36
    Thor: Thanks for the reply. No, I am relatively sure I do not need pads right now. I was interested in what to do when I do need them, especially if they wear as fast as some seem to be claiming (and as evident by the short time it takes to turn the wheels black).
    Your explanation seems more than plausable to me, like you have been there. Also, the brakes appear to be temperature sensitive, they squeal more when cold and louder when colder. They also stop squealing with increased pressure (more than I like or need to apply) just like as you suggest. The really odd thing is, on my ML430 it is only in reverse. I rarely if ever hear anything while moving forward, but I wake up the neighborhood while backing out of the driveway in the morning. This seems like a different situation than the one you describe with the tapering of pads from forward motion, but perhaps related.
    How much does noise free compound cost?
  • mklemickmklemick Member Posts: 3
    I have a ML 2000 yr. Doe's anyone know if it is normal for the gas pedal to have sideways movement. I had service look at it and they replaced it and said the all ML's have some left to right play. I still have some play, and not much confidence in my service dept.
  • thor8thor8 Member Posts: 303
    The squealing in reverse is related to the taper, imagine your pads looking like this, a vedge of cheese, the front thiner, when the pads touch, the thicker part, the rear touches first, (at low pressure) allowing the front to vibrate, in reverse is worst because the leading edge now is the thick part leaving the thin part (front) with room to vibrate.

    As far as the black dust and wear they have nothing to do, Mercedes uses a softer pad with high organic (carbon) fillers and binders, this soft pads is what gives the MB this smooth and sure braking, plus the rotor last longer because of less abrasion at the expense of the pad.
  • baronsdaddybaronsdaddy Member Posts: 20
    I'm dealing with MB of the Triad (NC) and the salesperson told me he'd sell any ML320 at invoice + 500.00. Is there some type of promotion going on? To my knowledge, there's 279.00 "paper wrk" charge.....Which I will negotiate....Any help would be appreciated!
  • Jon90Jon90 Member Posts: 33
    Sorry for the late reply, just got back from Bourbon Street and still hungover.

    My deal was effortless. The dealer is located around Wash DC and it is worth a little drive/train to go pick it up if you are anywhere near. I tool the train up and had a wonderful drive back. It was even in the middle of a horrible snow storm, saw at least 40 cars upside down or stranded, the ML never wavered....I went all through the Shenendoah Mountains on the way home in the storm....what fun!

    Anyhow, the dealer quoted that right off the bat, I kept waiting for the "hook", but one never came. I will definitely check in with them on my next one (they have four mfg's). When i went to pick it up, I happened to run into someone else i told this dealer about. He had driven down from Jersey and ordered one on the spot after he got a similar deal (he got straight invoice).

    Post your email if you want the dealer name/salesperson

    Good luck
  • tidestertidester Member Posts: 10,059
    Post your email if you want the dealer name/salesperson.

    I don't think it's a good idea for people to be posting their email addresses on the boards. An alternative would be for you to expose your email address in your profile. Anyone interested in contacting you could then look it up by clicking your name on your post and contact you without having to make their own address public.

    tidester
    Host
    SUVs
  • scot29scot29 Member Posts: 7
    Quality is still a problem with the ML.


    http://www.detnews.com/2002/insiders/0202/26/insider-426466.htm

  • psedrishpsedrish Member Posts: 49
    a guy who writes for the Detroit News might have a bit of a bias toward American iron? Do you think a real pro-Euro writer would advance his/her career in Detroit? My wife has an '02 ML & hasn't had any problems at all. I also have an '02 Caddy DHS and likewise have had no problems with it. Cost-wise, they were almost identical. I think the ultimate difference will be resale value.
  • thor8thor8 Member Posts: 303
    I read the article and I agree with most of it, I own a 430ML and had a few issues, nothing serious but irritating on the other hand the ML is such a well engineered vehicle and purpouse built it translates into a quality of ride and handling that is hard to ignore.

    Rigth now I have a GM truck also and is nothing to write home about, it does not have that precise steering of the Mercedes (amongst many other things), one does not become aware of it until one drives the ML, now I dont want to drive the truck for long distance travel, is not as pleasurable, the wandering steer is annoying.

    To say that Detroit still has the upper hand in value has to be taken with a grain of salt, their top SUV's cost more or the same, neither the cheaps ones nor the more expensive one have the same degree of sophistication of the ML and they are not trouble free either.

    And lets not forget that Detroit has the upper hand in dishing out pure junk in the past, for the past 35 years I bought my share of it, my ML may have a rattle here and there, but that is a far cry from engines going out as soon as 70K or transmissions going at 45K with some serious repairs in between and a total lack of handling etiquette.

    I will not dispute that the Alabama plant has some quality problems, to me is labor related including the subs, I have heard of some flaws from ML owners that borders on third world labor quality.

    In a nutshell is like this, an ML owner will concede that the vehicles has issues but is such a pleasure to drive that if they got rid of some of this issues it would be a top vehicle.
  • rockypaulrockypaul Member Posts: 104
    I thor-o-ly agree with Thor.
    Had my share of arbitrations with GM and hidden warranties, scores of recalls on Chrysler products and switched to all foreign made and never looked back.
    Have enjoyed Infiniti, Toyota, Lexus, BMW, Subaru and MB. Dealer support in ALL cases far exceeded my the terrible support on 3 Cadilacs from GM.

    Going on my 4th year with a '99 ML320 and sure it has had its annoyances but the dealer has always come through.

    In fact recently several items were replaced without my intervention by the dealer so that I would not be liable after the warranty expires in
    late August. They were all typical items found on this chat site to be problematic over the years and all were items that do not alter my most favorable impression of the ML. It remains a finely engineered vehicle with some bad OEM parts hung on it in Alabama.
    You don't throw the baby out with the bath water or some such cliche.

    That recent visit to the dealer under warranty found the rear shocks, fuel pump and lines, window switches, oil pan sensor, 9qts. of Mobil 1,
    rear seat removed, adjusted and replaced all without a peep out of me or a dollar.

    Try that with your Escalade under a GM bumper to bumper warranty where it seems only the bumpers are covered!

    Again, Thor is on point; the ML remains a finely engineered suv with a great engine and drive train
  • thor8thor8 Member Posts: 303
    Not denying that MB has some problems, but here are some good news for the future.
    The article also corroborates what everybody is saying, that quality is sliping, new cars do not rank that well but old Mercedes, those in the age of 6 to 11 years old rank a lot better.


    http://just-auto.com/news_detail.asp?art=37342&dm=yes

  • sshowittsshowitt Member Posts: 137
    Jon 90, please go to my profile and e-mail me the dealer thanks Steven
  • delsherifdelsherif Member Posts: 1
    Hey RockPaul,

    That sounds like a very proactive dealer! Taking care of those nagging details. I don't suppose this dealer is located in So Cal? I definetly can use a dealership that stands by the customer and doesn't simply turn their head with "no problem found" or writing stuff off as "that's normal".
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