Mercedes-Benz M-class (ML320, ML350, ML500 and ML55) 2005 and earlier

carreraboy911 · April 2003

I bought used front brush guard, it doesn't fit 100% my 2000 ML 320. It doesn't follow the hood line, kind of sticks straight...
I was wondering if anybody knew, if 98-99 had different brackets? Also, in a package I got, there are 2 strange looking brackets and I can't figure out their purpose ( 2 right brackets on this pic) http://members.roadfly.com/carreraboy911/brush-guard-brackets.jpg

The big bracket on the left attaches to the frame, like on this pic
http://members.roadfly.com/carreraboy911/brush-guard-brackets.jpg

also, how far should the bracket that attaches to the frame stick out from under the car? On my car it ends exactly under the bumper
http://members.roadfly.com/carreraboy911/brush-guard-under-bumper- .jpg

Please e-mail me at:
carreraboy911@ROADFLY.ORG
Thanks for any help

teaem11 · April 2003

Hi,
I am looking for one right side third row seat in charcoal leather. Any suggestions or ideas would be greatly appreciated.
Thomas

stever · April 2003

www.copartfinder.com?

Steve, Host

joeindenver · April 2003

Thanks for the reply Mark. Here's just a bit more data based on your response:

The backup issue is not a one-time thing. It happens everytime I choose to test this. I back up and stand on the brakes about as fast and hard as I can and the truck rolls to a gentle stop. Applying different pressure to the brake pedal makes no real difference in stopping distance after a certain pressure point is reached. Braking in the forward direction is about what I expect for the same apparent speed and less than half the distance when braking in reverse.

About the non-linear braking, this issue is that sometimes the truck brakes hard then seems to "let go a bit" and then brakes harder again, that is, deceleration is variable having peaks and valleys despite a consistent pedal force.

I don't think this can be considered normal. I'm taking it in tomorrow morning where I'm sure I'll be told it's all my imagination : ) But having put nearly 160K miles on the Rabbit driving it like a race car (when prudent) I think this must be real. If there is a problem found I'll post the resolution - and the cause, if known - be it lithium or some other thing : )

markjenn · April 2003

Doesn't sound normal to me either, especially the backing up part. If it does it all the time, I'd take the service mgr out for a drive.

I'm betting the two problems are related. It sounds almost like the ABS system is cutting in/out long before wheel lockup is actually occurring.

Good luck.

- Mark

joeindenver · April 2003

Went to the dealer - what a waste of time - letter off to them for wasting my time. I offered to try and duplicate the trouble to the service advisor then 4 HOURS later the QC manager tells me he can't duplicate the trouble and thanks for coming in - as I had other work to do I decided I'd come back some other day...

In any event, I think I have figured it out. The dynamic deceleration is linked to the transmission downshifting. If I have been cruising in 5th gear and I brake, the tranny will do some down shifting and it is at these times the braking will change. This seems most noticeable when braking on a down slope. The transmission has been worked on so I wonder... Or, is the tranny trying to do some engine braking and during the shift points the lack of that engine braking is causing the effect I feel? What do you feel when braking? Do you notice the downshifts? If not, that would indicate that something is not correct - if so, then perhaps I'm just too sensitive : )

kxs1 · April 2003

happy owner of a ml350 2003. inspiration 38 (m1+m2), sunroof,heated front seats,bose system and xeon light for 21870 total. any comments on the price?

markjenn · April 2003

No, on my 2000 ML320, I don't notice the transmission downshifting as I come to a normal stop. It behaves like most other auto transmissions I've driven, remaining in a higher gear until I either stop or being accelerating.

There are only two "odd" aspects of the ML's tranmission I notice. First, it has much less "creep" at a stop. I think this has something to do with the transmission "stall speed" although I'm not very familiar with the engineering involved. If you are on level ground and release the brake, the car barely moves - most transmissions "push harder" at a stop. (This can cause issues when stopped on a severe uphill - you have much more of a tendency to roll backwards starting from a stop. This requires that you re-polish your skills of left foot braking as you feed it throttle on an uphill start.)

The 2nd characteristic is that the car has great "grade logic" when upshifting and downshifting in hilly terrain. It will hold a lower gear going uphill rather than "hunt" and it will downshift to maintain a set speed.

All-in-all, I think the ML transmission is one of the best auto trannys I've ever driven.

Sorry, got off subject, but I doubt the tranny has much to do with your braking issues. Going back to your original problem, you say that pressing the brake VERY HARD does not cause full braking when backing up. This points to a flaw in the braking system to me.

You say that the problem is consistent and obvious, so I'd go back in and demand that you take the service advisor for a drive. That's the key to getting this fixed.

- Mark

markjenn · April 2003

I assume you mistyped or something. If not, even if the car is used, that's a ridiculously low price. Tell me where I can get one for that.

- Mark

joeindenver · April 2003

Mark,

Thanks for the advice. I will take it back as soon as possible. As for the tranny itself - I do have to say as far as smoothness goes, this is one of the best I've ever had (after it was fixed). Almost like a single gear the shifts are so smooth. Although, if it was to be improved, I might make it switchable between "economy" and "sport."

thor8 · April 2003

From # 6921, quote,

There are only two "odd" aspects of the ML's tranmission I notice. First, it has much less "creep" at a stop. I think this has something to do with the transmission "stall speed"

Yes indeed, the Mercedes W5 three channel converter is one of the best transmissions available, is ultra smooth with fuzzy logic, that is why it can adapt to ones driving style while searching for optimal efficiency.
The reason the transmission doesnt pull that much at idle is because the converter uncouples significantly towards neutral. All in all is a very sturdy transmission my ML 430 is going into its 5th year, I bought it mainly as an utility vehicle, I have been pulling my two three seater jetskies that long and several times my 23ft boat (over 5000lbs) and not long ago I pulled a tractor on a heavy trailer which included several miles of dirt road on hilly terrain to a camp, total weight about 8,000lbs, the transmission is as smooth as day one.

When I first bought the ML I was a little skeptical, now I realize is a very sturdy vehicle, I guess that is why it won the Dakar race three times in the unmodified class, meaning as is from the showroom, in a way now I look some of the mid size luxo SUVs with contempt.

Next year I will make a decision, either a VW Touareg with the V10 diesel if available if not another ML before they switch to the frameless design, I heard the rumors that MBZ will drop the deep reduction and abandon the off road abilities for a more car like ride since that is what the consumer demands, what a shame.

I took this picture at the MBZ plant in Alabama a few years ago.

http://www.funtigo.com/mltransmission

kxs1 · April 2003

Mark, sorry. i meant to say 41870.

chile96 · April 2003

Hi all. I'm about to purchase a new SUV to replace my 5 yr old tahoe and never really considered the ML because, now don't bark at me, I just didn't like the look. However, when researching some prices, I saw that the TMV for ML320 is BELOW invoice so now the vehicle is much more attractive all of the sudden. Can I really expect this price from a Houston dealer? I'm guessing that it's low because they're discontinuing the 320 for the 350? Are there any caveats about buying this model when it's about to be discontinued?

Thanks for all the help
fo

markjenn · April 2003

There are some super aggressive prices out there now, although I don't know about Houston. ML350s are discounted pretty aggressively too.

If you are willing to live with the spotty reliability record, the ML to me still represents one of the best compromises out there between off-road capabiltity, towing capability, roominess, and reasonable highway manners. Everything else either has gone to a car-based platform (e.g., Pilots) or is pretty crude. Touaregs are interesting, but I can't imagine buying the first-year of a brand new complex platform with VW's recent track history of half-baked products.

The looks grow on you - it is just the right size and feels Euro and efficient for what you get. It looks almost CRV-size when it fact, it is bigger (and much wider) than an Explorer. So you get the look and feel of a more nimble SUV, but lots of room inside, especially in width. The engines and transmissions are extremely solid. The ergos inside are awful and the electrical systems and accessories are the biggest reliability concern, so if you can, I'd forgo as many of the gizmos as you can, especially the nav.

If you get a great price, I'd jump on it.

- Mark

markjenn · April 2003

Sounds pretty good, but what's MSRP and invoice? Sounds like chile96 could use your datapoint for his negotiations too.

- Mark

joeindenver · April 2003

I looked at the 320s when I got my 350. Basically because any extra horsepower is good when you're at 6000 feet. As far as pricing goes, you'll do better on the 320 for sure as they have a $2000.00 incentive attached to them. My problem here is there are about 3 MB dealers in a 700 mile radius which leads to not so great discounts - unless, of course, you play the "but I got this price here from a dealer in Cincinnati" bit, which will help in getting a lower price.

As far as the truck goes, present issues notwithstanding : ), I'm really happy with it. I *really* like how it handles on the road and in parking lots. It feels like I'm driving a jeep almost in that I have great visibility and a very short turning radius - but I don't feel like I'll tip over. Cargo room is ample for my trips across country (Denver to Ohio and back 1 or 2 times a year) with the whole gang - although I do miss not being able to sleep on the third seat our mini-van has : ) The truck was unstoppable when I was back in Ohio during January, ice, sleet, freezing rain, and snow and nary a complaint or false step during commutes of 100 miles a day. I was even able to go where my brother-in-laws jeep GC got stuck - his street. No trouble at all. So for foul weather I can attest this truck works well - even with the standard tires. Don't know how much snow/ice you'll see down in Houston, but if you get any, you'll be prepared.

The interior does need some improvements - like the volume control about as far away as it could be from the driver. Cup holders are, well, my Pinto had better. But heating/cooling controls seem to be much improved over the older style and I rather like the seats and leg room.

As far as drivability is concerned, I really like how this truck handles at 90+ MPH. Very crisp and just the right amount of steering input required to keep it on track. Unlike other vehicles I have driven where any small correction at such speeds felt like the vehicle was going to lunge off the road. But low speed turns could use a little more boost to return to center.

It's a hard decision - I wrestled with it for a couple of weeks. But I really liked the form factor and the GVWR. Most any other truck rated at over 6000lbs was larger and I didn't want that. Drive the MB a couple of times over the course of a few days and then drive the other cars/trucks you're considering - I think you'll find the MB experience attractive over the domestic trucks. Oh, and when you go to seal the deal, make them provide *and install* mudflaps - if you're so inclined. It will keep the tar off the side of the truck and the back end. Otherwise the cost of the things alone will be nearly $300.00. Not your typical cut pieces of plastic here, thank you very much : )

thor8 · April 2003

I agree with most of what you said except with your statement about spotty reliability if you allow me to clarify the meaning of the word reliability on a vehicle, to me unreliable means one can NOT depend on the vehicle to take me from point A to point B because somewhere along the way the vehicle will brake down, the odds being stacked against the vehicle.

In all fairness the vehicle had some issues that fall mostly in the category of annoyances, the most serious ones being the fuel pump clogging up, and yes that one left a few people stranded so I guess I have to back track and rely on my definition, and the famous clamp on the steering pump hose, a 75cts piece that can cause some grief, but all in all the majority of the issues fall in the category of annoyances like a window switch failing or a light coming on or a rattle here and there, a few people became irritated over those. But all said the truck is very rugged and strong built, of all the midsize SUVs the ML is the strongest, only domestic come close. See my message #6922 and judge by the picture, that is a very beefy transmission.

In the US the ML is rated at 5000lbs towing capacity but in Europe is rated at 7,200lbs because of different laws, somewhere in Wolfgangs ML page is the article.

As far as looks go I agree is not exactly the most aesthetic but carefully thought out, I think is because the window lines go up towards the rear plus a short overhang gives the vehicle sort of a wedge of cheese look, and the hood slants downwards but visibility is excellent, the short overhang is a plus when towing because it places the hitch close to the rear axle where it should go and minimizes swaying on the road, especially when towing heavy.

Under the skin there is a real truck, mounted on a heavy ladder frame, low range, very good off-road for the intended purpose, good driving characteristics on the road and very well engineered, truly dual purpose, a car like truck. Too bad the diesel version is not sold in the US, I had the chance to watch one at the plant, a 400CDI, none of the clatter or vibration of a domestic diesel, sounded like a turbine.

mac320 · April 2003

That's Gouda. MLs looks brawny to me. I agree about getting mud flaps, especially for a white ML with 275s.

Some are critical of the ML's styling (I assume non purchasers) but the concept of making a SUV with a car-compatible bumper height engineered into the design does impact the styling compared to the crossover-type alternatives.

There is some subtle styling details that probably only an owner notices, e.g., the tuck at the lower half of rear quarter panel, almost giving a slight bulge look at the back because the of the narrowing the roof from front to back (something you're more likely to notice if you install roof racks). I think MLs probably would be one of he most aerodynamic of the SUVs if not for the ground clearance and big mirrors (prior to '01).

chile96 · April 2003

Thanks for all your help w/ those questions so far. I'm thinking about leasing a ML320/350 now for 3/36. Does anyone know the residual % or money factor MB has for the ML series? Also, does MB allow you to make multiple security deposits that will lower the MF life BMW does?

Thanks for the help all
fo

she1122 · May 2003

I have a 2000 ML 430 that I bought about 6 months ago with 19000 miles on it. Everything has been great and it is still under warranty. Here's the question, about 3 days ago when I started it up, I noticed a smell that would make one think someone had been drinking in the truck! Now I notice the smell every so often when driving ! It is unpleasant and I did not even spend the night at a night club!! Maybe the car did !! Should I be concerned ? What could it be?

joeindenver · May 2003

Is it a Desino edition? Don't know when these were first available (give me time) but I've read elsewhere that if the leather get's really hot it can smell odd. Something to do with the different tanning process for that kind of leather.

she1122 · May 2003

We live in Portland,Oregon and it has not been hot ! The smell seems to come from the ventilation system with the fan on. It is not the air conditioning system as we have not used it. It is a smell like alcohol on a person's breath esp. when you have not been drinking and you smell it on someone else!!

mac320 · May 2003

It couldn't be caused by a reaction of the interior to hot weather: we also have an '00 ML430, purchased new in May 2000, and have been in over 100 deg heat for one week per year since the Summer of '02.

If it only appears after start-up, I'd guess it must be caused by a leak of something or some contamination in the ventilation system, e.g., engine coolant; otherwise, someone must have spilled something, in which case, maybe you could nose around the cargo area.

thor8 · May 2003

Most probably is the windshield washing solution, when delivered it comes in full strength, some of the vapors in hot weather are sucked by the ventilation system. As the solution is used up and diluted with just plain water the smell goes away.

she1122 · May 2003

Thanks everyone for input. The smell has suddenly gone away. I do remember using the washer fluid once or twice recently, and I do not use it often. I wonder if that could be the culprit as thor8 suggests. We will use the washer fluid tomorrow and wait and see if the smell comes back. I will post if that happens !! Thanks!!

khoon · May 2003

A few years ago, I heard the ML320 qualified for an accelerated depreciation schedule since it weighed 6000 lbs. Evidently there's an IRS guideline that allows a tax payer to accelerate the depreciation of a vehicle that weighs in at 6000lbs, or more. I have a '99 ML320 and the sticker in the driver's door sill says that the GVAW(?) is 6005 lbs. Do the new ML350s weigh the same? Does anyone know whether or not these SUVs qualify for the accelerate ddepreciation?

Also, I understand there are some aggressive prices out there. Anybody here get a good deal in the NY/NJ area? How about $41K with M1, M5, M7, Xenon, and Silver metallic?

kxs1 · May 2003

Khoon, I just got a 2003ML350 last week in NJ for 41870. It has P38 (which is m1+m2), runroof, heated seats, bose sound, silver paint and xeon light.

khoon · May 2003

Kxs1 thanks for sharing your information.

chumsae · May 2003

Go to my entry in the ML vs Acura vs, etc., etc.
area. Then page 21. Look for entry #391. This
outlines the accellerated depreciation for cars
with GVLW of 6,000 + lbs.

stever · May 2003

chumsae "MB M-class vs Acura MDX vs Lexus RX300/330 vs BMW X5 vs Cadillac SRX" Mar 14, 2003 1:43pm

Steve, Host

djdragan · May 2003

i am taking it in to the dealer for the 1st time on monday, anyone have the same problems?

thx

My ML350 when stopped at a red light keeps wanting to go forward from time to time even though I press on the brakes. It jolts forward, stops, then jolts forward again. It does this for about 10 seconds and stops. I feel that when this happens I have to press the brakes very hard in order to not hit the car in front of me while at a red light. It doesn't do this everytime, but regardless it's a huge concern that a brand new truck is doing this. I counted the # of times this happened was about 4 so far.

Possible causes: Owners of Mercedes-Benz vehicles mentioned these to me:
Someone told me this could be due to the throttle actuator which wouldn't trigger any check engine lights.
OR
It could be that the engine idle is not smooth and steady so far as rpms are concerned. No check engine lights came on at all when this happens.
OR
The engine computer is running the air/fuel mixture too lean partly due to the air in the region. The engine would then almost stall, causing the computer to dump a higher than usual amount of fuel in to prevent it from dying. This resulted in the "jolt" at the traffic light.

Problem #2
Dates of occurences:
4-26-03
5-7-03

My ML350 was stopped at a red light. The light turned green so I took my foot off of the brakes and pressed the accelerator pedal. While still pressing on the accelerator pedal the car didn't move forward but instead it started to shake just a little bit and stalled for about 4 seconds. I seriously thought the engine was going to shut down and cars behind me were beeping their horns since I wasn't moving forward at all. After about 4 seconds of the car being stalled this stopped and I kept on driving home. No check engine lights came on at all when this happened. Also, another huge concern of mine since this is a brand new truck.

Possible causes:
The engine computer is running the air/fuel mixture too lean partly due to the air in the region. The engine would then almost stall, causing the computer to dump a higher than usual amount of fuel in to prevent it from dying. This resulted in the "jolt" at the traffic light.

quinnd · May 2003

While looking at used ML's I have noticed that some of them have a brownish discolored spots or areas on the top middle of the engine. It's the metal you see when you open the hood and look down on the middle of the engine, between the two black covers on either side. Some ML's are discolored there and some are not.

Does it mean anything? Was it caused by overheating or ?

Thanks,
David

mac320 · May 2003

I've forgotten what I read years ago, but if I remember correctly, the valve covers and intake manifolds aren't metal: they're plastic, and it still looks the way I remember on our '00 ML430, e.g., a flat, grainy, silvery color. Our free yearly detail probably gets rid of any smudges.

joeindenver · May 2003

Hi Mark,

You said this in your last message about the tranny in regards to my braking issues:

"There are only two "odd" aspects of the ML's transmission I notice. First, it has much less "creep" at a stop. I think this has something to do with the transmission "stall speed" although I'm not very familiar with the engineering involved. If you are on level ground and release the brake, the car barely moves - most transmissions "push harder" at a stop. (This can cause issues when stopped on a severe uphill - you have much more of a tendency to roll backwards starting from a stop. This requires that you re-polish your skills of left foot braking as you feed it throttle on an uphill start.)"

This is an interesting comment because I am having exactly the opposite experience. I must hold decent brake pedal pressure to keep the truck from creeping when stopped. In fact, it appears I'm having some of the same issues as described in msg# 6943 - although I don't have the lurching issue as described, although the truck has nearly stalled - but only once at around 400 miles or so on the odo - it has not happened since.

Well now that I'm back in town I'm going back to the dealer and we'll be driving a loaner ML350 today to see if it's me or the truck. At least I'll be able to compare apples to apples - more or less...
Other than this issue I'm still very happy : )

hariaum · May 2003

I am one of the 95% (is it 97%?) that don't take their SUV off road ever. So I was interested in a more car like SUV. Also I'm looking to take advantage of the 'Light Truck' deduction. GX470 interested me the most. But then I was told that it doesn't qualify as it is not heavy enough. Only other LUX SUV in the same price range that interested me is ML350...

Car shopping makes me nervous. I dread negotiating. I hope to get the price nailed down (via Internet and Phone) before I show up at the show room. I intend to buy fully loaded. Is it reasonable to expect a deal below invoice? What is the best strategy?

mac320 · May 2003

Below invoice? I wouldn't think so but you could try for practice. If I was buying a new 500, I'd want at least $5K off MSRP--that's how much we bargained off on a cheaper 430 in May '00. A 350 should be less ... maybe $3,500 or more.

I wonder how a weaker dollar will effect this equation--ML sales are down in the US , but the stronger Euro currency maybe makes them an even better deal to foreign buyers and they're already popular as an export item.

I've read about how to buy a car and it works for me, i.e., really know exactly what you want, down to the color and options; (2) know how much you'll offer and if they do not accept, you just have to leave (you probably won't have to leave if you've done the research and know what they'll take, but if you do, the lot may call you later or you might even buy it elsewhere for less than they turned down); (3) don't have a trade-in because that will confuse matters; and (4) the lot has to already have the very car you've decided to buy so they actually can accept your offer and deliver.

My problem would be that they probably would not have the very 500 I'd want but if they did, I sure wouldn't let them know it. Good luck.

rajesh_pappu · May 2003

My local tire store is trying to sell me tires sized 255/70R16 for my ML320. I know the Orignial's are 255/65R16. The guy is telling me that it is a little taller but no risk and is giving me a great price on Michelin's. Is going for slightly taller (sounds good) tires worth the risk? Any comments?

markjenn · May 2003

The slightly taller tire will ride a little better but handle a little worse.

While I'm sure you'd be Ok with this tire, I'd go with the stock size. With SUVs and their rollover tendencies, I'd just feel more comfortable not adding a variable to the handling equation.

Tires in the stock size are not hard to find. Your tire dealer should be willing to order them and have them in a day or two. If they are unwilling, find another tire store. I've had good luck with Discount Tire.

Costco runs special deals with Michelin every so often. Typically $60 off if you buy four. Their standard prices are Ok, but nothing special.

- Mark

joeindenver · May 2003

With all of the discussion on the power steering hose/clamp issue, I thought I'd pass along that while I had my 350 in for service today they replaced the power steering clamp on the lower hose (to the radiator). The work order indicated this:

RECALL #200304005 W163 Power steering hose

They put on a new clamp and cranked it down pretty good - much more apparent force than the original clamp. If I had a digital camera I'd take a picture, but I don't... Now I wonder if it is too tight.

In any event I hope the above data will help those who are being told it is a service advisory. I'm pretty sure they would not say recall unless it was a recall, lawyers, you know.

kullenberg · May 2003

There are several reasons to stay with a tire that is the stock diameter, not the least of which is that if it is a leased vehicle, you could get grief on turn in, because the mileage will be inaccurate. I had larger on my vehicle for a while, and it had a bad effect on the handling, and it could effect the stability control. Altogether a bad idea. Have a look at Michelin Cross Terrains, great traction quiet and long tread life.
Cheers
Pat

kiiwii · May 2003

I was thinking about getting 255/70/16 before. For some reason, 70 is less expensive than 65. Maybe 65 is specially for ML?? Anyhow, after thinking over and over, I decided to go with the original size. 70 will bring up the center of gravity. It may increase the risk of roll over.

karld1 · May 2003

Few questions on my Dad's 2001 ML430.
My Dad owns one of them and with over 30K he already had a few warranty repairs (nothing major) he really enjoys the car but we have a few questions.
1. What do you think about keeping the engine oil to 10-13K miles between oil changes, what oil is MB dealer using? is it really Mobil1?
I have had used Mobil1 and Amsoil oils and I know that with about 5K miles those overall great oils have to be changed.
What do you do?

2. Tranny fluid
Tranny is sealed so fluid can't never be changed!?!?!
Sounds liks a non-sense, do you ML owners really belive it?
Do you really thing that your car will be OK at 150K miles after never changing the fluid in your tranny?
If not, did any of you changed your tranny fluid yet. If you did, what brand (Mobil 1 ATF?) and how did you do it?
(Dealer, independent shop)

3. Do you recommend buying extended warranty for another 5 years up to 100K miles?

Personaly knowing ML series from Edmunds forum and my Dad's case I would not buy but lease it for 3 years.

Help greatly apreciated.

joeindenver · May 2003

I took my ML350 up to the mountains the other day and had just way too much fun. Handling on twisty roads was wonderful and the selectable tranny gear was very useful for going up and down steep grades. Going downhill was really nice as I didn't have to ride the brake at all.

But...

NEVER, EVER cruise on dusty roads with the rear quarter windows open : ) Makes for a really dusty cargo area and creates a dirty head liner near the windows!

markjenn · May 2003

1. While I don't think you'll harm the engine by leaving a good synthetic in there for 10K, I don't think it is the best policy if you're looking to keep the vehicle for a very long time. My FSS is showing about 10K between services and the dealer seems fine with me fudging by bringing it in at 8.5-9K, so I've been Ok with this interval. But when the truck is out of the free maintenance period, I'm going to be changing between 6K-8K. To be ultra-safe, 5K would be ideal, but probably not cost effective. I think the dealers do all use Mobil 1 now, after the sludging problems were discovered when going 10K+ with conventional oils.

2. MB says the system is lifetime, but every five years or 100K miles sounds appropriate to me. (MB isn't alone here - most mfgs say that tranny fluid is lifetime.) You change it by dropping the pan. They changed mine when my truck was brand new to fix a leak. I'm not hot on a system that has no drain plug or dipstick either, but the fluid can be changed.

3. Normally, extended warranties are a poor value, but the ML doesn't have a great repair record and service is expensive, so it might be a good idea. I'm about to go out of warranty and the truck has been ultra-reliable that last 30K, so I'm just going to risk it until I trade in a year or two.

- Mark

tiger2doll · May 2003

Hello Everyone,

Just bought a 2002 ML500 with only 7K miles on it. Its Brilliant Silver with Grey Leather interior. Has the Navigation, Bose, 6 CD Changer, Moonroof and Memory Seats. Paid 36K plus Tax, Title, etc - is it a good deal for 40K out the door ? Drove it back from Las Vegas to San Jose - love this SUV. Tremendous power - just step on the gas and it literally just takes off !!!

This has been a great board for this SUV - really interesting experiences. Does anyone have a list of recalls on this SUV ?

Thanks,
Tiger2doll

mercara · May 2003

I would agree with Markjenn. I too change oil in the 6K - 8K range. I am not confortable with following the FSS and changing only between 10-12K. I use only Mobil 1. I know that this topic has been discussed to great length on this board. I believe it is a personal preference. I have no problem in spendind the 100 dollars every 7K for an oil change. It's peace of mind as far as I am concerened.

I had the same concerns about the Tranny fluid too. The last time I took my 99 ML320 in for a major service at 52K miles, I told them I would like to change the tranny fluid event though MB doesn't recomend you do it untill 100K or 5 years. But the service rep adviced me against wasting my money and said that it is the same transmission in the S-Class and 100K tranny service intereveals are no problem. I went with his advice and didn't service the tranny.

mac320 · May 2003

I would not worry about sticking with the FSS interval. We're going on 70K and I think our '00 ML430 is just starting to get broken in. It never uses oil between intervals and the oil looks as clean at change time as when it went in.

'00 was the first year of delivering MLs with synthetic from the factory and providing free oil changes during the warranty period. I'm sold that it is good engineering.

On the last oil change, Mobil 1 was available if asked for; otherwise, Valvoline's synthetic was used--there are several brands that make synthetics meeting MB's spec.

I don't see a problem with anyone changing their engine oil early--it's all recycled anyway--and for a dirty engine, unlike MB's 430s, maybe it would help extend the life. I knew a guy that changed the dino oil in his Datsun 240Z every 5K. By comparison, though, the tolerences wouldn't have been anything like the 430 and the revs would have been much greater by comparison and it wasn't synthetic to begin with, and would not have had 8 qts. to deal with, and would not have had MB's silica-impregnated cylinder liners, and probably had more than 10 compression--plus: the guy was a nut.

dosei · May 2003

I was wondering if anyone is experiencing this problem. I have a 2002 ML500, and I get an occasional shrieking noise, seemingly from behind the steering wheel. I am waiting for my Autobahn dealer service shop to call me back to report the problem.

rover96 · May 2003

As the tiltle said. I bought a after-market oil filter for my ML320. I did the oil change & rest the on dash counter back to 10000.

There is no oil leak whatsoever. Driven it for 20~30 miles. And now my "check engine" stay on!!
I am thinking about the oil filter element causing the light stay on(may be restrict pressure flow)!?

Any 1 have any suggestion?

markjenn · May 2003

My guess is the CEL is unrelated to the oil change.

- Mark

Mercedes-Benz M-class (ML320, ML350, ML500 and ML55) 2005 and earlier

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