Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!
Mercedes-Benz M-class (ML320, ML350, ML500 and ML55) 2005 and earlier
meredith
Member Posts: 575
This topic is a continuation of Topic 3356....
Mercedes-Benz M-Class(Part 18). Please continue
these discussions here. Thanks!
Front Porch Philosopher
SUV, Pickups, & Aftermarket and Accessories Host
Mercedes-Benz M-Class(Part 18). Please continue
these discussions here. Thanks!
Front Porch Philosopher
SUV, Pickups, & Aftermarket and Accessories Host
0
Comments
Re Andrew36, FWIW, I had a similar encounter a few years ago in another car and was later telling an attorney friend about the event. He said I should have let the person behind me hit my car rather than accelerating away, due to differing liability issues when you're hit vs perhaps hitting someone else while trying to avoid being hit yerself. It wasn't my choice, but thought i'd pass it along....
I like the separate bins.
At the diner I was unable to get the remote to
activate the drivers door. Figuring it was just
still to cold I left it unlocked and went in for
breakfast, after we went shopping and I manually
had to push the knob down at the store. On our
return I couldn't get the remote to unlock any
door, but the rear hatch again unlocked. Again
crawling through I unlocked the door and proceeded
home. Once home I tried to re set the locks and
remote, but all the doors work, except for the
drivers door. I took the plug out and now have to
do it by hand, but only the drivers door is
activated by this lock, none of the others... so in order to stop the alarm from going off I have to unlock via the remote then unlock the drivers door manually (Grrrrrrr!!!!!)
I'll call the dealer tomorrow, but I'm sure I'll
have to wait for parts if something is broken in
the lock. This will be my first experience with
this dealer and I'm not looking forward to is as
their service record is poor, but it's the only
dealer in our area and where I bought the car from.
Sorry for the long winded post, but as you can
sense I'm not real thrilled right now. Up until
this episode I did not have a complaint, but if
this is going to be a common problem in cold
weather I am not going to be a happy camper....
Press the 'Navi Voice' Button and she will speak, while she is speaking adjust the main volume control and this will change the volume of her voice.
I wouldnt have know this if some one on this list hadn't told me.
Robert
You have the infamous "machine gun locks" problem. If they replace it w/ locks that were made in 2/2000, they should be ok. When was your ML built?
Robert
Raj.
I'll keep everyone posted on what I find out, when I'm able to get any appointment to get it fixed.
After thinking about it for awhile it's still only an annoyance problem and nothing that would be classified as a major mechanical problem.
Its either the front defrost vent or, god forbid, from the seal around the bottom of the windshield.
Has anyone else had this, what was the remedy??
Thanks!
I believe that the cure is to felt the front defroster vent. You can just pop it out. I havent had time to do this myself, but other on the list say it works. Maybe I'll get to it this week, it does get quite annoying and embarassing when people get in the ML.
Robert
I'm starting a new trend.
Robert
"There is a bit of a problem that we are seeing
with a squeaking in the dash in the MLs. I have spent some time with
one of the lead techs and discovered that the problem is the windshield
wiper cowling is pressing against the windshield. Our techs solve the
problem by putting a rub strip in-between the cowling and the windshield.
The ducts are not the culprit.
We have forwarded this information to Mercedes so hopefully they will
be able to correct this during production. My ML clients are generally
extremely satisfied with the vehicle as a whole. Once the little issues
are dealt with there will be many happy years of ownership.
Thank you for keeping me up to speed and I look forward to any new
information
or impressions you can provide.
Rick Hubbert
Internet Sales Manager
Phil Smart Mercedes"
when the car expereinces some bending or deflections when say turning up a slope. solution ? um lubricate the rubber ? =)i dunno...
dt77
Strange that it only happens when its really cold out...it starts squeaking in the front dash area after the heat has been on for about 2 mins...
Thanks!
Nordleth (www.nordleth.com) also sells the headlamp protectors and the hood deflector (the model you're looking for is called the EGR Superguard). I saw a Cypress Green ML320 with the Superguard today and it looked quite nice. IMHO, the smoke tinted deflector contrasted quite nicely with green and matched the tinted Skyview roof deflector.
As for the wipers, I recommend that you turn them off till you need them. Otherwise, you'll have that sweep everytime you start the truck.
I think Zymol (www.zymol.com) has an online store. I use the Consumer Reports top rated Zymol cleaner wax - blue liquid - but C.R. also rated the Prestone BulletWax just below Zymol. BulletWax is easier to apply because of its built-in applicator. It does not give the deep gloss that Zymol does though.
Here are the pictures you requested. Note that identical products may now be packaged differently.
I recommend that you use a small step ladder or stand on the rear tires to reach the roof. Just make sure that the tires and your shoes are not wet though! :-)
My installer said the ML light capsules are $400 each...
Drew
Townhall Community Leader/Vans Conference
I am thinking about to get a late 98 320 model, I have heard early model had lots of problem. What is the early mfg date should look for? What else should I look for? I want to heard from any experienced owner. Plese help, I want to buy one b4 year end. Thanks in advance!!
They think something may have been frozen. They offered to keep it overnight and try it again in the AM, but I said I'll try it again at home and see what happens.
I also tried everything when I got there and for now everything seems to be working fine again. Must be I have a warm blooded car that doesn't like the cold. May have to move to Phoenix like my brother suggested.
The 1998 ML's were not bad trucks but had many more issues in general (as a whole) than the newer 1999 on models.
In addition, understand that there were Significant Technologies built into the 1999+ ML's that you will not get or be able to modify the 1998's. ESP is one of these...if you don't know what ESP is then ask Drew (aling) to give you a link to a complete explanation. Basically, ESP is designed to help prevent the ML from loosing control and keeps the drivers intended vehicle direction in an emergency maneuver. Also, if traction is compromised suddenly that would cause possible loss of control.. ESP would make corrections (brake any wheel independently and reduce throttle) which could possibly keep one from having a very serious accident/roll over..Read up on this feature and see if you don't think you need it.
The reason I am even saying this is because there is not much price difference if you shop between a 1998 and 1999 model. In fact, you could potentially buy a left over 2000 Model year ML320 for $35-36K. This would be a much better decision!! The hope that you would get a good 1998 ML and have no problems is much less than if you tried for a 1999 or newer.
Let's start helping you by getting the facts...How much is this 1998 ML320 going to cost you? How many miles does it have on it? Will it have an additional warranty (are you purchasing it through a MB dealer)?
Have you looked for any other ML's to compare pricing - from other dealers and other independent individuals?
I honestly feel that if you purchase a 1998 you will have the worst resale of the lot with the least technology...if you educate yourself on the ML you will see that there are very good deals on much newer ML's with much less "chance" of having issues.
Please provide us with more info. as stated above and include what area you live in so we can help you find a few options.
I will end here and say that I drive a 1999 ML430 with @27K miles with every factory option. It is in perfect shape..no dings..scratches...and has a trade-in value of @33-35K if I'm lucky...This is WAY more than the 1998 is worth...
Please respond!
Frank
Thanks in advance
MP
My plan was looking for a 99 ML430, but i can't get a used one with brush bar, running board & hitch.
I came across this one 98 ml320 with the stuffs i needed. it's 42k miles. And i am going to get a extened warrany to 100k miles regardless. & this one ask for 26900 without the warrant. this can save me 7k if I buy a 99 ML430. (exclude the extened warrant, of course). Only diff is the yr & no ESP. Btw, Can Aling or anyone give the url to the esp in depth site!!
Once again, thanks every 1
Waiting to become a ML owner or back to a Discovery owner!!???
Also, my ML320 has the rain sensor. With the wiper in the intermittent mode(the mode recommended for the rain sensor to work), any time I turn the engine on or off, the wiper goes through one cycle. Is this normal
After stopping at a traffic light/stop sign, there is a clunk noise coming from the Left Front wheel area.
No steering or handling problem!
Also preparing for the first "A" Service any and all tips appreciated.
I did change to synthetic @ 1K and will have the oil and filter changed.
Mike
I obviously believe in the ML and I want your experience to be a positive one. The 1st thing I would do is have a MB dealer pull the service records for this particular 1998 ML. Look for any issues there have been and if they were all resolved. Check for any body repairs... Also, check to see what factory options it had - sunroof, Bose Stereo, I assume leather interior...these are all factors in value.
Depending on the date of Original Delivery I assume you may still have a "Factory" warranty for what ever is left of your 8K miles. If you do buy this vehicle, make sure you get everything possible resolved Before the "Factory" warranty expires. Any additional "extended" warranty may severely limit what is covered...If you could get the MB "starmark" warranty that ONLY Mercedes Dealers can offer would be best.
My main concern is that you are buying an Mercedes product that was 1st generation and is not the same vehicle that it is today. I hate for you to play Russian Roulette and see if your 1998 is worthy. With only 8K miles and ?? months before factory warranty expiration there is little time to work out any issues. As I said earlier, extended warranties are not like factory warranties and cover very limited components depending on the policy.
You are paying for less but will get less if you sell or trade in later..
I'm going to try using some rubber strips on the wiper cowlings first.
Thanks!
PS. The wind noise is the most irritating
<<A HREF="http://4x4abc.com/ML320/ML320_ESP_gr.html">http://4x4abc.com/ML320/ML320_ESP_gr.html>
For more info. on another standard feature in 99+ models called BAS go to link =>
<<A HREF="http://4x4abc.com/4WD101/BAS_how.html">http://4x4abc.com/4WD101/BAS_how.html>
Hope this helps!
Is your clunk chronic? or just a one time.
Say it ain't so...........
I wonder if we have the same slight problem, mine is like a bed spring sprung on an old bed or a muted guitar string. I leaned on the passenger seat the other day and the noise happened, but not again?
Engine rev
I get at stop light a noticeable engine down rev sound, yet the rpms do not budge? it's like a heart murmur to me? My 99 ML did not have that MB, said no error codes on seat belts. Diagnostics did not detect my SRS system aler light coming on a few days later.
Scott
Scott
The sound clunk - bed spring noise is not @ every stop but more than one time in a day.
It is not an inside the passenger compartment noise, outside Left tire area, maybe a shock or something.
Mike
Delivery depends on too many things. It can vary from 2-4 weeks.
So far so good, General tires not wearing even, insides have more tread than outside. any ideas?
So many people here these days, someone should have a quick answer.
I do notice that the hot air problem gets worse when the outside temperature is below 38 irregardless of interior temperature. One time I even had the Radio Shack thermometer reporting 160 and then flashed "HHH". I guess it means Hot and the thermometer reached its maximum measurable range.
The problem seems to be when my ML tries to adjust the temperature, it's using the outside temperature and ignores the interior temperature. Perhaps the interior thermostat is not functioning, disconnected or does not exists. Once the car is warm or the outside temperature is above 38. Everything seems semi-OK.
Let me know your result with the MB rep. I'm curious to hear what/how they can qualify this as "Normal". BTW, I couldn't get any of my other cars to generate such high heat, not even my home furnace.