Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!

Mercedes-Benz M-class (ML320, ML350, ML500 and ML55) 2005 and earlier

1151152153154156

Comments

  • rennmanrennman Member Posts: 3
    Can anyone suggest a good repair manual for the ML 500? I have a 2002 ML 500.
  • rennmanrennman Member Posts: 3
    I am new to the Mercedes arena. I have an '02 ML 500 and I need to change the oil soon. What is the procedure for resetting the computer? I am assuming that there is a procedure similar to what exists for my wife's BMW.

    Thanks.

    Rennman
  • ficussficuss Member Posts: 541
    I just purchased an 06 ml350 MB certified suv with 29k miles. Can someone tell me the average mileage before a brake job is required. The car is like new and loaded with bells and whistles. Dealer installed new Continental tires and repaired minor wheel scuffs. Purchased the 2 yr. extended warranty just in case. I know brake pads are not covered. Also, how much are the MB phones that are compatable with the cars wiring?
  • 0435004350 Member Posts: 26
    Typically, 15,000 if mainly in-town driving to 25,000 or so with more
    highway driving. Usually, the way this was designed at least for the 2004,
    they typically recommend that the rotors also be replaced. If yours was '
    certified, on the certified check-out sheet that should show whether the
    brakes were replaced as part of that. If your front or rear brakes had more than 50% of the lining left, that applicable front or rear or both may not have been replaced as part of certification process, Brake job with rotors runs $ 500
    if someone other than dealer maybe $ 650 if dealer.

    If you are in a Northern climate, this Mercedes is great in snow. A couple
    of weeks back, when there were some other vehicles that were abandoned
    in the road in our sub-division because of a freezing rain/ice storm, the
    Mercedes managed OK driving at slow speeds on one and one half inch
    thick ice, although you still can slide off if you're going too fast when you
    brake.
  • ficussficuss Member Posts: 541
    Thanks for the info. I have not received the certification checkoff sheet yet, the salesman said I would get it. It is a MB certified SUV. The carfax report the dealer ran did not show any brake work being done. I will press the dealer for the checkoff sheet. Snow handling ability will come in handy this winter in Chicago, we've had 38 inches so far. My AWD Mitsubishi Endeavor which I am turning in soon was great for 4 winters, I can only hope the MB will be as good in the snow. I've had other SUVs , 2 Jeeps and Chev. Trailblazer, engaging 4wd or letting the car decide when to engage 4wd comes with a lag in traction. The AWD configuration is seamless in operation and dependable as well.
  • chumsaechumsae Member Posts: 61
    2000 ML320: Driving along the interstate at night at 65 MPH, the truck began bucking, tranny shifting up and down, seemingly no power. I coasted to a stop, left the engine running, looked under the hood and saw nothing obvious. Got back in and drove home without incident.

    A month later, same problem. Got back in and drove home without incident.

    Because of the transitory sense of this, after the first incident my guess was that
    the computer was zapped by a microwave, and then regained its stability.

    This second episode says it is something else (although the problems happend within a half mile of each other).
  • ficussficuss Member Posts: 541
    One of my old SUVs had similar problems reported on this board. The highly technical and computerized 2002 Chevy Trailblazer exhibited similar traits. They were never fully explained or solved. Turning the engine off and back on would usually cure the problem. The location where this occurred may have nothing or everything to do with it. Were you near a radar installation or some other high power RF source. There is a logical reason airlines don't want anyone to use electronic equipment onboard. They can cause harmful interference with other systems. My first instinct would be to do a search on this and other MB forums to see if anyone else has had similar malfunctions, if so what were their cures.
    Of course, there is always the obvious, was you gas cap screwed on tightly? Is the location close to your gas station. Did you just gas up both times before this happened. Don't overlook the easy possible causes, that's where the solutions can usually be found.
  • chumsaechumsae Member Posts: 61
    A third episode, this time more persistant and with a check engine light, brought me to the neighborhood mechanic.

    They replaced two motor mounts. This fixed an early problem with a "crunk" sound when just starting of the line, and it fixed the erractic shifting and loss of power. It also turned off the check engine light.
  • rnugentrnugent Member Posts: 8
    We have a new to us ML 320...a '98 w/less the 80K on the odometer. Driving it home from the used car dealer (not an MB dealer), the right front brake seemed to hang up and start smoking. Didn't feel like it was pulling to the right or other signs of brake issue. I was driving separately and got home 15-20 minutes after. Back rotors warm to touch, left front similarly warm to touch, right front noticeably hotter. Called dealer (30 day warranty upon sale!), who will bring mechanic by tomorrow to examine and tow away if necessary. I took the vehicle to the corner gas station (it was low...) maybe 1.5 to 2 miles away and back again. No smoke, nothing peculiar about the brakes. Back rotors were warm to touch, front were warmer but not overly so and left front and right front seemed same as each other. Neither 'Brake' or 'ABS' light came on during problems.

    Ideas? Suggestions? What should we expect them to do?

    Thanks,

    Raymond
  • ficussficuss Member Posts: 541
    Something to think about the next time you lock your car door, I tugged on the door handle of my 06 ML350 last week after locking the door with the remote. I was surprised to find the Drivers door opened on the second pull of the handle. The horn sounded the alarm but the door opened. I assume that for the past 3 months my car wasn't locked when I thought it was locked. MB repaired the lock at no charge and gave me a very nice 2010 C300 to use for 2 days. You might want to check to see if your door is really locked when you think it is locked.
  • rnugentrnugent Member Posts: 8
    Drove our new to us '98 ML-320 yesterday on unseasonally 92 degree day. The A/C could barely keep the vehicle comfortable...any more bodies or higer temp (and we'll face both as the summer comes...) and it just would not hack it. The truck has about 80K miles on it.

    Is the a/c on these usually good? Is there a relatively simple fix (yeah, I know, check freon or whatever it is this uses....anything other than that?).

    I spent a bunch on my 300D's a/c to get it to cool and it never really did the trick. Don't know whether to suck it up or expect better.

    Any ideas would be appreciated.

    Thanks, Raymond
  • tidestertidester Member Posts: 10,059
    You may just need to replenish the A/C's refrigerant. Yes, that's the first thing you should look at. :)

    tidester, host
    SUVs and Smart Shopper
  • chumsaechumsae Member Posts: 61
    We have a 2000 ML320 and live in El Paso, Texas, where it gets to the high 90's
    much of the summer. I found the ML AC to be okay but substandard compared
    to our 10 year older Lexus LS400, which could freeze your arm off... or something else for that matter.

    Not sure if our truck is typical, but I get a pittance of cooling when the
    right hand diverter dial is set on anything but the 9 O'Clock position (blows
    everything through the dash vents). My hunch is the diverter flaps are
    ineffective except in that position.
    :confuse:
  • klappekisteklappekiste Member Posts: 2
    Check to see if your cooling fans are on when a/c is on. older ML's have a habit of blowing fuses....Hope this helps

    Klappekiste
  • briancrainbriancrain Member Posts: 1
    My ml320 will be running smooth then dash lights all go on and the car goes into limp mode. I shut off the motor and it will be start up just fine. I replaced the crank position sensor and the cam position sensor. Problem got worse. Now, sometimes the engine will not start. After a few minutes will start. Driving will just die. Will start up after a few minutes. I can hear the fuel pump. What can it be?
  • radey77radey77 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 1998 ML 320 which i shipped to my home country outside the USA. The two keys could no longer start the SUV now.I was informed that the keys have expired. Do they expire?
    i tried to get a replacement key from a dealer here in Maryland but they refused to cut the key becauce it is no longer registered in this country.I showed the registration for my country but it was refused.
    My problem is that it is so difficult to cut the key in my country even from a dealer. How can i get a replacement key. I cannot start the truck now if l go home to my country. The keys start the engine but will not run.
  • gold3n_8oygold3n_8oy Member Posts: 4
    Bro,

    I have the same problem with you..I quite often experienced my car engine just die without a reason when running in a normal speed.I pulled over and start the engine and it start right up and everything normal. ut after a few weeks, I cannot start my engne. It start and die right away, i tried a few times but same thing. I changed the crankshaft sensor and everything went great.. But after 3days, it happened again, but this time after the engine stop when im driving normally at night, engine died suddenly again..I start the engine and it start again, but it shaked heavily and it wont move eventhough i step on the gas, but it suddenly move again but power is extremely low...a second it moves, another second it stalls without reactions.. It got worse when i turn on the air condition, the RPM weakened..I managed to get home safely witth my car stall a while oftely. when i reached home, I stepped on the gas rythmly on and on, it went back to normal without any issues..
    Im quite fed up and pissed off..Wondering what more to change....

    1. Have changed fuel pump, air filter,fuel filter, spark plugs, cleaned throttle valve/body 3mths ago.
    2. changed air mass sensor and crank shaft sensor

    ANYBODY HAVE THIS KIND OF PROBLEM can help me solve it? I happened since I have a dead battery 1mth ago..The sudden engine dies happened evey night time..ehwn the lights and aircondition are on. Is it have to do with electrical parts or sensors..??? Please anybody help me..............!!!
  • gold3n_8oygold3n_8oy Member Posts: 4
    Want to add a few points..My car is ML320 2000 and it already runs 90.000KM.. REALLY REALLY APRECIATE IF ANYBODY CAN HELP ME SOLVE AND GIVE AND END TO THIS MISERY......:( Thanks
  • ericlau01ericlau01 Member Posts: 15
    Ditto.
    I have a '01 ML320 with 198k miles on it. I predict 200k after the holidays. Only issue I had were the transmission and power steering leaks at 180k. Replaced two brake switch during the life of the vehicle. DIY crankshaft positioning sensor thanks to this forum.

    Standard maintenance as usual. Oil change DIY every 9k to keep it running strong. MPG still at 20 as brand new.

    I'd buy another ML after this runs to the ground.
  • obvious1obvious1 Member Posts: 1
    Considering purchasing a 2003 ml 500 38500 mi. Asking $17990 at Cadillac dealer
    Any advice on this vehicle - reliability? gas consumption?
    Would appreciate anyone's thoughts
  • 0435004350 Member Posts: 26
    Reliability is so-so. Have brake linings and rotors checked before buying.

    Gas mileage. Only about 18 on the highway, maybe 14 in town. Requires premium.
  • mycarrmycarr Member Posts: 1
    Hey Guys....

    I'm new to all of this.... and I need help trying to decide what to do. I am pondering about buying a 2005 ML350. It has 39,000 and seems to b in good condition. This will be my first mercedes! So, I'm a little excited... Based on all of your knowledge about ML350... Do you think this is a good purchase?? What problems do these trucks usually have??

    Thanks in advance!!
  • gregoryxgregoryx Member Posts: 44
    my friends drive a 2000 ML320 with 178k miles. they came to visit last night and when they went back into the car to go home, the car started as normal but they could not put the car into any gear. it will not move into any of the gears and had previously never had the problem. as an extra bit of info - it is about 10 degrees outside but i'm not sure that the temperature is related to the problem.

    does anyone have an idea of what miht be the source of the problem?
  • chumsaechumsae Member Posts: 61
    My 2000 ML320 did the something along that line, in two variations. The owner's manual showed me the path to freedom on one, which was the shift lever could not be moved out of PARK. Here, locate the small access flap near the lever and insert a small screw driver to release the lever.... then replace the switch at your convenience. Was less than $50.

    The second variation was being able to move the shift lever but the transmission at first would not engage in any direction. This too at low temperatures in the teens F.
    No fix, as this problem went away by leaving it in DRIVE and waiting a couple of minutes. We live in a mild climate so it never happened again.

    This was a real love-hate truck for us. Eventually, at 150K miles, hate won out and we sold it. Way, way too much went wrong. We could not trust the local dealer service department as they had one mode of operation : maximum charges
    for minimal work. :mad:
  • gregoryxgregoryx Member Posts: 44
    thanks . . . i found the fix for them. i didn't have time to type the whole story but this used to be my wife's vehicle and we sold it to them for $2500 a couple of months ago. it was a love/hate for us to and we kept it for as long as we could but got tired of having to spend 2-5 thousand dollars on some kind of repair each year. i just purchased my wife a new gl 320 and she loves it, so i gave mb another chance to prove themselves.

    thanks
  • satya789satya789 Member Posts: 3
    Dear Rajesh:
    would you please send me a copy on oil usage and the related info incase if I need my engine to be rebuilt by MBZ.( your reply above)
    my 2000 ml320 - I found window switch need to be replaced as per the mechanic. now. Few months ago we changed the starter. It didn't start in the parking lot. Any clues or useful info on these repairs. I appreciate your reply.
    Vijay
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    Rajesh hasn't logged in for a while but he posted an email address back at post 6899.
  • mineianmineian Member Posts: 1
    Hey I've recently bought an ml320 1998, I've got a couple concerns that hopefully someone can finally help me out with.

    The first is that when the truck is idle, like at a stop sign or red light, the engine jumps a little, the rpm is at about 500 nd seems like the car wants to just turn off..

    The second problem is that on turns I hear a clicking sound if I press the accelerator while turning..

    When I had a diagnostic machine put on it, I was told I had to replace the stop lamp swiotch or switches and to replace the transfer case...does that seem right? And what are the approximate costs to these repairs...I live in nyc

    Thankss
  • ken108ken108 Member Posts: 2
    My 2000 ml has started losing oil. Doens't burn it, but the oil level drops to replacement level in about 2000 miles. could this be a faulty exhaust gas recirc valve?
  • ken108ken108 Member Posts: 2
    I had the same problem on my 2000 ml, only it was on the back lid. Unfortunately the dealer charged for the repair. Another reason I'll probably never buy MB again.
  • jca123jca123 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 98 ML320. The ETS, ABS and Check Engine lights are staying on. Sporadically, the Brake light will come on along with a beeping noise. The speedometer will drop to zero. I can maintain the speed but can not accelerate. If I come to a complete stop, the car will not shift out of 1st gear. Most of the time I can turn the car off and start it again and everything goes back to normal witht the exception of the ETS, ABS, and check engine lights - they stay on. What can you suggest?
  • jandinijandini Member Posts: 2
    Hi deborahn,
    my car has the same problem and a mecanic told me that I need to replace the fuel pump, because is geting bad and at some point the car won be able to start any more until I replace the part. Also he show me how to replace it and is easy.
  • jandinijandini Member Posts: 2
    I have a 2000 Mercedes ML320. While the car is running, it will die for no reason. Then it will crank over, but will not start. After about 1/2 hr or more it will start. A mechanic told me that I need to replace the fuel pump, I would like to know if someone has a second opinion related to this issue.
  • dennis92dennis92 Member Posts: 1
    I have 240,000 mi on my 1998 ML320. It runs perfectly. My mechanic says I should be thinking about replacing the timing chain. I don't believe he has a lot of experience with this many miles on this kind of engine. What do you think?
  • cgordon2cgordon2 Member Posts: 1
    Not sure if this has been corrected yet, however, wanted to add my 2 cents. Had the same issue with my ML320 and it turned out to the crank position sensor. I found that these typically go bad in the MB's and it's an easy fix. Shouldn't cost you more than $200 from a shop or if your handy you could do it yourself.
  • charlesfrostcharlesfrost Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2005 ML 500 and i have changed virtually everything since it started overheating.(fans, reservoir cover, etc
    The water in the reservoir starts to boil and immediately reduces to almost zero. The temp is only maintained at 100 degrees at a speed of 80-mph after which it just starts to rise to the red zone.
    This is really concerning for me as i can no longer take a road trip cos of the fear of what might happen.
    What can i do?
  • aycinnycaycinnyc Member Posts: 1
    Hi, I know this is a old post but I am having the same problem with my ml 500. I did everything tune up, oxygen sensor, and air flow meter. I felt dismay today but after reading your post I feel a little better. Do u live in NYC ? I need help with this bc these two lights keeps coming on. Please help????
  • csrich47csrich47 Member Posts: 2
    I know this is an old thread but my search led me here. I purchased a 2006 ML350 the other day and between the time I test drove it and the time it was delivered to me, they changed out the front brakes only (not at my request nor was the light on) and now the brakes are mushy and almost on the floor. I'm trying to decide if I want to cancel the deal if they don't replace the rear ones to. Any thoughts anyone?
  • ppgacoloppgacolo Member Posts: 1
    Just a guess but I would check to confirm brakes were bled correctly. Check the Brake Fluid level. If fluid is dark, it is old and probably has air bubbles or water. Brake fluid is hydroscopic and should be changed annually. If they just slapped a set of pads on the fronts, my bet is they did not address the fluid and allowed air into brake lines.
  • frenchiemom2frenchiemom2 Member Posts: 2
    I also have a 2000 ML320 and I had the same problem. My mechanic thought I also needed a new fuel pump. So after $600, I picked up the car and about 2 miles down the road, it shut off again. He had it for another day or so and when I got it back, it was fixed and has been right since. I was told the new fuel pump they put in was a bad fuel pump but I personally think it was a much easier fix once they figured out what it really was but wouldn't tell me since I already spent the $600.
  • frenchiemom2frenchiemom2 Member Posts: 2
    I have a 2000 ML 320 and sometimes when I am driving, my brake light will come on and a beeping sound will start. If I stop and turn off the car, it usually stops. I took my car to my mechanic and they couldn't figure out what it was and told me to take it to the Mercedes dealer. Has anyone else had this problem and what was the fix?
  • csrich47csrich47 Member Posts: 2
    and the car started missing. Like it was running on less than 6 cylinders. The first thing I thought of was sparkplugs. Called the dealer today and the service advisor says it's probably not the sparkplugs but gave no clue as to what it might be. Question 1) how can you diagnose a car's problem without seeing it? and 2) is this some kind of game to see how much money they can get out of me? 3) what else could it possibly be? Any ideas on question 3 anyone?
  • georgerocketgeorgerocket Member Posts: 2
    Fuel pump from Mercedes Dealer $905. New fuel pump from Amazon $125 plus shipping and found a mechanic who would put it in--Try and get the parts #'s and find someone who will not rip you off. The mechanic will not guarantee the work - however, if they know what they are doing and the part is new--you have lots of $$ to save. Dealer charged $149 to just make the diagnosis:(
  • intmikintmik Member Posts: 6
    My 2001 ML320 has the same identical problem with the radio. I get the " No CD changer Installed "message. What was it that the MB dealer changed on yours? And how much did it cost you? Was it a programming issue or installation that fixed it? Thanks.
  • fpcfpc Member Posts: 1
    I have the same problem on my ML please HELP
  • xlincolnxlincoln Member Posts: 1
    Jandini, how did you ever get your ML320 repaired? if so what was the problem?
  • cupertinocupertino Member Posts: 15
    Hi greporyx,

    can you share the found with us ?
    what was replaced ?

    Thanks
  • jerryvan1jerryvan1 Member Posts: 1
    have you checked the the Thermostat ?and what type antifreeze are you using
  • tms4016tms4016 Member Posts: 1
    You don't replace Timing chains, you replace timin belts. But, after all, it ia a ML320, that has the motor and parts built with very unreliable parts. It is one of the worst cars I had. And, now the Kelly BLUE BOOK LISTS mine at $2000, although it is in mint condition, Florida car, always garaged, 1 owner, driven by a 50 year old female, never in accident, but because of the reputation the ML class has, they went down in value like the housing market. I have one problem now, my fuel pump relay keeps getting hot till it melts. I changed the fuel filter, almost $100, I payed like $30 for an BMW M3 fuel filter. I have cleaned the fuel pump very well, but still, the relay gets hot, very hot, and then melts. The car starts perfectly and drives perfectly, untill the relay melts for the fuel pump. I would never take it to the dealer, I don't even take my "baby" BMW M3 1995 with only 60k miles, and mint condition. I take it to a small shop that only specializes in BMW, no other cars, and the 4 technisians that work there have about 20 or more experiance with BMW. Delers are not trust worty, and have the time they don't know exectally, and it takesthem forever to fix your car, not to mention, dealer charges 4 or more time more for service and parts than a small local very specialized shop. The ML320 has 150K miles. Had brake problems in front for years, till I stoped going to the dealer and went to a very trustworthy place, with excellent mechanics. That shop does not speialize in any particular cars, but it was breaks, so I didn't need special dignostics. And, since then, no more front calipers getting stock and burning the pads. Now I have to figure out why the car is burning the fuel pump relay. I replaced the fuel filter, took out the fuel pump and cleaned it as best as I could. It started normally, liek before, but the relay started to get hot and eventually, was going to melt. Other relays a ok.

    In response to your timing chain, I believe that there was a recall for those timing chains, so check with the dealer to see if there was a recal. I remember mine making a hole for some reson in the cover, and when I took it to the dealer, I am pretty sure they replaced it for free. The car was no longer under waranty, but it has been about 6 years. So, that is why it is hard for me to remember exectlly. But timing chains usually last forever, unlike the timing belts, I have a Toyota Tundra with 200k miles, and it is still running with the original timing belt that is ruber and can crack or strech, but metal chain, why would you have to replace it? Did the mechanic at the dealer showed you the condition of the timing chain? And were they going to charge you? Good Luck.
  • tim1041tim1041 Member Posts: 1
    I own a 2005 ML500 the air blows cool and sweet. It's a good thing that you don't own a 10 year older Lexus LS400 that was referred to in another post, which could freeze your arm off... or something else for that matter. I sure wouldn't want to freeze any thing off, arm or other what ever was refered to. I also own 2008 ML550 with the air ride suspension. I've never frozen any thing off in that truck either. I love both of of these trucks. I think an AC expert could figure this out very quickly.

    TTS
Sign In or Register to comment.