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Jeep Cherokee

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  • parsons3parsons3 Member Posts: 5
    have a 99 sport with 195000, and the rear passenger door will not open. (power locks) all other doors work fine. Also, remote keyless entry does not work - batteries have been replaced in key unit, no blown fuses. Have tried removing rear interior panel to inspect locking mechanism, but could not remove. Any ideas?
  • langleylangley Member Posts: 2
    My first automobile as a driver was a 1992 Cherokee Laredo 4x4 with about 140,000 miles on it. Unfortunately, less than a year after I got it I had an accident and since the value was so low, it was "totaled."
    I got a 1993 Cherokee Sport (this time without 4x4, unfortunately) last August with only 84k miles on it. Although the great I6 engine still runs true, I miss some of the amenities of the higher-class Laredo (cargo cover, chrome trim, flip triangle windows, and of course 4x4).
    What is amusing is that we've encountered almost the exact same problems in each Jeep. I can almost predict what will happen next, whether it be some type of leak (on the 92 it was the oil, now its the steering fluid), a broken door hinge (trying to defy fate now using some lubricant so I won't have to replace a hinge part, like in the first one), or the EXACT same starter problems (sometimes won't start unless you put it in neutral). However, in the 93 Sport we've had some major transmission problems. It turns out that for some reason it was without transmission fluid for a while, so we got a custom job at Jiffy Lube and some fluid put in. It improved for a while, but then began to deteriorate again. We checked it again today just out of curiosity, and it appeared to have no fluid this time either! We just got back from the Lube again, they put some fluid in. In the 93 Sport model was there a problem with transmission fluid leaks? This problem and the recent development has just blown us away.
    Besides the phantom transmission fluid, we've had good luck with both Cherokees. They are durable, roomy (in the front at least) yet compact, and useful to haul cargo. What say you?
    -Langley, a young Cherokee fan
  • langleylangley Member Posts: 2
    My Jeep has the 4.0 L I-6, and it has 190 HP and 225 lb-ft of torque.
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    Most stolen cars (CNN Money)

    Steve, Host
  • gary_williamgary_william Member Posts: 52
    700-1200 range seems fair, maybe even high, especially since the AC is out. I have an 84 Pioneer with the 2.8L V6 (ok, stop laughing) with 160k+ miles (on this engine), loads of electrical problems, and I just replaced the floor boards and fiberglassed it. I bought the rig for $200, running, 4x4 working, with a "few" electrical problems, but for $200 you get what you pay for. So for your 87, seems like the 700 price is good. Does it have the 2.8 or the 4.0, as that would add a few bucks, IMO.
  • jrosasmcjrosasmc Member Posts: 1,711
    Did any of the Jeep Cherokee (or Grand Cherokee) engines ever use what's known as variable valve timing?
  • matteo2matteo2 Member Posts: 18
    I have a 2000 Cherokee Sport, I want to replace trans fluid and filter, and rear and front differential fluids. Has anyone done this and have any tips? Also how easy is it to do a radiator flush on these.
  • icenutticenutt Member Posts: 1
    What I need help with is I have a moon roof in my Jeep Cherokee but the drain tubes are plugged. Every time it rains, the rain drips into the cab. How and where can I clean those drain tubes out? Thanks.
  • Kirstie_HKirstie_H Administrator Posts: 11,148
    A newspaper reporter seeks to interview current and former Jeep Cherokee owners. Please send your daytime contact info and the model year of your vehicle to jfallon@edmunds.com by Wednesday, March 31, 2004.
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  • jakemailjakemail Member Posts: 7
    I have a 2000 Classic 4X4. My vehicle was stolen and recovered. The Jeep dealership put her back together nicely. However, the Idiots took it off-road and they may have missed something mechanically. I was wondering does anyone know how to test the 4 wheel drive component for optimum operability with out taking it off road myself to see how I fare? I heard something about putting into 4 wheel drive and then making sharp turns...I don't know. Any ideas would be great.
  • mcstevemcsteve Member Posts: 2
    I recently purchased a used 2001 Jeep Cherokee
    The particulars are as follows: 4.0L I6, 126,000km

    At highway speeds (110km/h or 70 mph)it develops a rather loud moan that really isn't noticeable at lower speeds. The vehicle seems to run fine and the problem is more annoying that anything (for now anyway...)I took it into my local Chrysler dealer who suspects it is noisy front differential bearings (apparently a chronic problem from a poor design from the factory) but isn't sure. Apparently the tires look good and the u-joints are okay. His suggestion is to keep driving it until the problem is better defined. Driving the vehicle until the front diff implodes doesn't sound like a good (or cost effective) solution to me. When asked if I could replace this frontdiff with a scrap one I was told that I would likely inherit the same problem from another Dana 30 axle and it should be rebuild special by the dealership. Until I know the problem, I don't want to dump tons of money for a possible hit and miss scenario. I also understand that this problem may be covered by TSB 03-001-01A but I don't have access to this info (read this in Phil Edmunsons Lemonaid). Can anyone confirm or shed any light on any of the above?

    SS
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    A net search for 03-001-01A will turn up a few hits like this one.

    The NHSTA Item Number is 625612, but says it concerns the Grand Cherokee, not the Cherokee (nhtsa.org).

    You can also try an Advanced Search here from the link on the left sidebar for Cherokee Whine - you'll get a couple hundred posts about whine, but many are about a whine from the rear (and quite a few are about whining passengers <g>).

    Steve, Host
  • dancermandancerman Member Posts: 220
    My '99 has had an annoying growl in the front since new. It's not that noticable when driving at slower speeds and only gets loud after a fair distance (20 miles or so) at highway speed. I had the front axle rebuilt, transfer case rebuilt and a TSB service on the 4-wheel shifter linkage, all under warranty. None of these things helped and in fact, I think the axle build made it worse. I gave up after the warranty expired.
  • jimoldsjimolds Member Posts: 5
    I need recommendations for a replacement muffler for my 88 Cherokee 6 cylinder 4 liter. I currently have a Dynomax Turbo muffler and 2 1/4 inch pipes. I have used this system for two years with good results. Free flowing muffler increased horsepower,seat of pants acceleration and mpg. But, it is too loud. Any recommendations for a high performance muffler that is quieter. Don't want to go back to the restrictive stock muffler but will give up some hp to get a little less noise. Will keep the 2 1/4 inch pipes. Thanks!!
  • mcstevemcsteve Member Posts: 2
    I've been told that some of these things can roar forever and nothing happens to them in terms of breaking down. My Dad is a used car dealer and sold me this thing for a song so i can't complain too much. As long as it doesn't fail I can live with it and after searching a couple of forums it seems pretty common. The local Chysler dealer wanted $1200cdn to "rebuild it". I'll drive it until (when?) it fails and throw a scrap diff on for $300....

    SS
  • idntnvuidntnvu Member Posts: 254
    Have you looked at Flowmaster? I had a Flowmaster 40 series put on my '99 Explorer 4.0, and it's pretty quiet. It makes a little noise when you get on it, but for the most part it is pretty quiet. I was actually hoping for more noise out of the flowmaster, but no dice. Of course, that could save me from getting pulled over.
  • srocks4srocks4 Member Posts: 13
    The jeep uses a serpentine belt, does belt need or use timing adjustments? Plus, is there a web site showing details of what a 90k and 120k maintenance pertains? My manual was stolen during a break-in. Thanks.
  • mpp2mpp2 Member Posts: 97
    Has a timing chain. There is no belt and you don't need to change the chain. As for a website, I'm not sure if I'm allowed to post this since they also have a forum, but try jeepsunlimited.com. My owners manual shows the same service for 90 and 120
    -Change engine oil and oil filter
    -replace air cleaner filter
    -replace spark plugs
    -Inspect and adjust drive belt
    -Lube steering linkage
    -Drain and refill Auto transmission fluid
    -drain and refill transfer case fluid
    -Inspect brake linings

    Additional services at 120 are to replace the ignition cables and to change the front and rear axle fluids. I have a '98 so there may be some differences, but they should be generally the same. Good Luck.
  • srocks4srocks4 Member Posts: 13
    I had a quote from a shop that wanted $750 for the tune-up or $275 for just cap/rotor, spark plug/wires. Decide to learn and do it my self.

    Looked that the jeep site before posting, had to buy a book for the info.

    Most of the work has been done in the past 2 months, just need the cap/rotor, spark/wires and transfer case work. Attempting to do it this weekend. Thanks again!
  • mhall02mhall02 Member Posts: 38
    $750 for a tune-up and $275 for plugs, plug wire, cap and rotor? Hard to believe, must be high on parts. Plugs, plug wire, cap and rotor should be under an hour of labor to do, plus it isn't too hard to do. For the cap and rotor, unhook the original and put the new back on just like the old, tricky thing is the plug wires, do them one at a time, take one old one off, put one new one one on, don't mix them up. On the newer engines, what more is involved in the above vs a tune up?
  • tolincjrstolincjrs Member Posts: 2
    We purchased our first Jeep Cherokee in August of 2003 for my son's first vehicle. He wanted a Wrangler(still does)but we found a green 1996 Cherokee with a 5 speed standard and ABS for $1500.00. Our mechanic recommended it as he knew the owner and had done the servicing since it was new. The body, with a wash and wax was in excellent condition. He installed front wheel bearings and gave the vehicle a going over including an inspection before we brought it home . What a great first car! Since then we've added 10,000 miles, new tires for winter and a muffler. My son had a minor mishap and took off the side mirror and rear window sliding down a hill backwards on ice and then just recently hit a deer doing 50 mph. The insurance gave us $2,100 of which we spent$600 to replace the grill, lights, and take care of the other minor damage. Now we have a free Jeep with a couple minor dents. Can you beat that?

    Recently my wife and I set out looking for a new vehicle to replace our '94 Blazer and considered both a Wrangler and a Liberty. The Wrangler was out as a family vehicle, at least for now. It's more for fun. But the Liberty caught our eye. After doing extensive research and shopping I decided we'd have to order one to get it the way we wanted it. If I'm going to buy a new car I want it the way I want it. My son and I both test drove a Liberty with a V-6 and a std. tranny and though the ride was fun, we both got out of it saying to each other it wasn't what we expected. You're supposed to get excited and want one. He was more excited about his $1500.00 Cherokee. So I started looking and searching the web for a Cherokee. There are no new ones available and it's a shame. The Liberty is no replacement. It doesn't have the space in the rear and I didn't think 16 miles to the gallon sounded like what I wanted from a new $21,000 auto. The Cherokee was the answer. A good practical SUV without all the BS. I found a beauty. Slate Blue, Aluminum Wheels, Auto (I'd rather'd had a standard) 36,000 miles, clean and polished. The dealer was about 1.5 hours away and I decided on a Friday to just go look. I looked, test drove it, bought it and drove it home that day. Now we have two. All the shopping paid off with a good decision.

    I had the dealer send me the printout of standard features and options and I'm confused as to what the Up Country package includes. It doesn't list it specifically but has the following as options: a 3.55 axle ratio, L&R front and L&R rear spring (upgrade I assume), two customer preferred packages 2TJ and 26J and TZAP Goodyear Brand tires. I know these options come a la-cart, but does anyone know the specifics on this?

    It rides good but it's stiff. I paid a little more than I had planned $14,500, but if this has everything on the list he provided, it explains it - along with 1 owner and a 3 month bumper to bumper warantee. The vehicle had been serviced and gone over, including new brakes and nice tires. I'm happy the shopping is over and that the dealer was so accommodating. I just hope it makes the 245,000 miles our '96 has got.

    Next is the Wrangler. We're already looking and with 3 Jeeps I'm sure there'll be nothing but a big fight over who who gets to drive the Wrangler. Good luck out there. This is a great site and I'll be sure to visit it often.
  • sebring95sebring95 Member Posts: 3,241
    What year? I have a build spec sheet from when I bought mine that has the description of the codes. If yours is an '01 (and the codes might be similar for previous years, I dunno) I'll try to find it.
  • tolincjrstolincjrs Member Posts: 2
    That'd be great if you have it available. The one I bought I'm in question about is a 2001 Cherokee Sport. I have the codes for the springs and such and have read about the up country pkg. The left front spring for example reads ZFKP The list I have kind of tells you, but it doesn't unless you can figure out what it all means. Thanks!
  • srocks4srocks4 Member Posts: 13
    You're right the mark up is the parts. I had that shop change out the serpentine belt, they said they saw a crack. Total cost $98, the belt was $53 (Goodyear).

    I did changed out the spark plugs/wires, cap and rotor myself and worked on one wire at a time. From here on out, I'm changing my own plugs/wire and cap/rotor. Yes, they wanted $275 for the work.

    Agree with tolincjrs. The Liberty is no replacement for the jeep, I rented one for a week.
  • srocks4srocks4 Member Posts: 13
    Hi Everyone,

    Another question. The past 2 weeks my temp gauge has gone a tad beyond 210, I open up the heat vend and the temp drops down. The only time the temp has gone up was on the freeway either moving slow on a hot day or accelerating to pass or going up a slight incline. Never had this problem before.

    I will try and change the thermostat this weekend, if thats not the problem the next thought was to flush the radiator, but figure it might not be the problem because last Dec. I had the changed the water pump upper/lower radiator hoses due to a slow leak.

    Any thoughts on determining the possible causes for the temp to rise? Thanks.
  • mhall02mhall02 Member Posts: 38
    Yeah, anything you can do or learn to do will save you some major bucks. I bought the Goodyear Gatorback serp. belt at Autozone for around $30 and put it on our 2000 Sport in 10 minutes or less, wasn't to worn, but had over 80,000 miles on it so better safe than sorry. My wife got me the Jeep/Chrysler ASE service manual for the 2000 Cherokees, it has more information than I would ever need, but its nice to have. I have a Haynes repair manual (much cheaper) for my 1991 Dakota truck, it helps explain things as well, good investment if you don't have one already.
  • matteo2matteo2 Member Posts: 18
    I have a 2000 cherokee sport with 77,800 miles
    Recently had some weird noises start, First one is a loud screeching sound that comes and goes when driving, and for some strage reason it stops when I slow down, It is not my brakes I checked them, maybe a wheel bearing?

    The other is a constant low rumbling coming from the engine compartment,this noise is their all the time, seems to be on the passenger side. Anyone have any ideas what these could be ?
  • mhall02mhall02 Member Posts: 38
    Screeching could come from the serp. belt, how does it look? Loose or glazed? Rumble, early on had to have some sort of bushing in the transfer case replaced that caused a rumble. Was under warranty so I don't have any idea which one or where it is.
  • matteo2matteo2 Member Posts: 18
    I did replace my serp belt about a month ago, goodyear gatorback, but the screech seemd to develop two weeks later.I did tighten the belt up the other day but it did not help screech came and lasted 20 seconds then stopped. Can it be an idler pulley?
  • ed96ed96 Member Posts: 20
    does anyone know the widest tires i can put on my cherokee classic without lift kit. im thinking about 235s
  • idntnvuidntnvu Member Posts: 254
    A friend of mine has a '93 Cherokee Sport with 223k miles on it. He had to put in a new engine and ignition at around 210k. It's still going strong, with a recent new cd player installed and new liberator tires. Tranny is still very strong. Some problems that have arisen is the AC no longer functions, the driver's seat back broke, and when opening the driver door, it caught on the front fender panel and bent it in. This also bent the door downward, so even though the seals are excellent, it leaks during heavy rain and god forbid you take it through a carwash. I then turns into a driver wash. Does anyone have any suggestions as to what to do to fix these issues and make this car as good as new? The drivers seat can be bent back forward, but if one leans on it even the slightest amount, it starts bends right back again. I'd have to say go to a junkyard and find a replacement on that one, but who knows, you Jeep guys may have some other ideas. Also, any ideas on how to fix the door and fender? The fender is pushed in quite a ways...and the door is noticably lower in front than in the back where it latches. Thanks for any input.
    I personally don't own a Jeep, but I wish I did. Another friend of mine has an '01 Sport in that gorgeous and rare "Amber Fire" orange color. She hasn't any a single problem out of it in nearly 30k miles. More than I can say for the '99 Explorer I settled for. Oh well, to each his own!
  • bpanbpan Member Posts: 5
    Hi,

    Got opportunity to buy a 2001 Cherokee Limited 4Door 2WD from company fleet, under 70K mile for less 7K. There is no accident or major repair from its maintenace history. What I should looking for during my test drive? Any recommended checkup? Else...? Thanks.
  • ray hray h Member Posts: 120
    Will the door open at all? Try it from the inside and the outside. This sounds like a problems related to child safety locks.
  • ray hray h Member Posts: 120
    My 99 Cherokee will only go into 4 wheel low when the tranny is in neutral and the vehicle is stopped. The engine must be running.
  • ray hray h Member Posts: 120
    Last Friday I took my 99 Cherokee Limited to the gas station filled it up with gas closed the door and the interior lights stayed on. Drove home and the lights were still on. I checked all the doors, the hatch, tried locking and unlocking with the factory remote entry and by using the locking mechanisms on the door. All was to no avail. Took it to the local Jeep dealer. I waited 2 hours for them to look at it and the lights had gone out. Took the Jeep home and Saturday it did the same thing. Checked every fuse inside the vehicle and none are for the interior lights. Finally found a fuse under the hood that turns off the lights but also turns off the remote entry. That seems to reset the interior lights but they continue to get stuck on and I have to pull this fuse and start over. Since this happened I have noticed the lights don't dim when going out but just go off all at once. This vehicle had the "opera dimming" feature.
    Does anyone out there know if there is a relay or switch for the dimmer under the hood, or anywhere else, or know the cause of this problem.
  • mountainmama1mountainmama1 Member Posts: 3
    I've got a 1995 Jeep Cherokee 4wd with 126,000 miles on it. Just recently it's started overheating while it's idling or driving slow. If I can get up to a higher speed it will cool back down. Isn't really using coolant. I had the thermostat and water pump replaced this winter and haven't had this problem before.
  • pahefner01pahefner01 Member Posts: 202
    I'm not sure when they added a second cooling fan but my 99 Cherokee has a second cooling fan powered by the electrical system in addition to the traditional fan that runs off the engine pully. This second fan kicks in frequently when I am stopped at a stoplight. You might want to check to see if you have two fans and whether both of them are working. I'm pretty sure the second fan is controlled by a temperature swith. I've noticed it's kicks on when the temp rises to the center of my temperature gauge on the dash. It cycles on and off frequently. Hope this helps.
  • mhall02mhall02 Member Posts: 38
    As mentioned above the newer Cherokees have dual cooling fans, my 2000 has the belt driven and electric and its a good combination during idle time or stuck in traffic. With that kind of milage and age, is it the original radiator? Without proper flushing every two or three years, you may have a plugged up radiator. The old style like in my '78 Ford pickup could be rodded out, but I don't know if you can have this process done with the newer kind. You can try having a radiator flushing done by a Jiffy Lube like place or a professional radiator shop, but it may need a new radiator. It sounds like you have had this vehicle long enough to know what is a 'hot' reading for this vehicle. I was amazed when my 2000 Sport was new it would run around 190-200 according to the gauge, my other vehicles did not run as hot, but this appears to be a normal range for the Jeep Cherokees.
  • thepdmmthepdmm Member Posts: 82
    I have a Manual 97 Jeep Cherokee Sport 4wd 4 door. I have recently noticed oil (I believe engine oil, because not red). it is coming through the holes in my sway bar under the jeep that connects the left and right side about front seat BACK distance.

    I have been given the suggestion of a valve cover gasket (not leaking) and I checked around the oil filter in case of a sloppy job no signs of new oil. As another note there seems to be NO new oil on the bell housing of the transmittion, looking from the top.

    Any suggestions on what it could be?
  • justinjustin Member Posts: 1,918
    hi everyone. looking at a basic SUV. have always liked the old school Cherokees. have always had Wrangers in the family including an 04 Sport.

    anyway, on the 2000 and 2001 Cherokees - are their any differences between the two? looking at 4 liter automatics? are the automatic in the Cherokees that same crappy 3 speeds in the Wranglers from the same years?

    how are the 2000-2001 Cherokees holding up? i know they are full of rattles and noise, but are the mechanical components holding up? i saw on MSN that those years have Camshaft Sensor issues? anyone experienced that?

    buying a 2000 or 2001 is scary - no warranty.

    anything specific to have checked out? why are they so rare with ABS???

    all of the V6 models can tow a light boat or jetski no prob, right?

    THANKS for your advice!
  • sebring95sebring95 Member Posts: 3,241
    Very little difference between the '00 and '01's. Mainly options/packaging. I believe the '01 had a different intake or something to help with emissions.

    The tranny on the Cherokees is a Aisan-Warner (japanese built) 4-speed auto that is extremely reliable. Not the best shifting thing, but a good package. I bought my '01 new in December of 2000 and sold it with 75k miles in November of 2003. I had very few problems in that amount of time, mainly just drove it and bought gas. I sold it to a neighbor girl, so I see it regularly. She hasn't had any problems with it and last I heard it was approaching 90k miles.

    ABS is rare because it was a very expensive option. I'm thinking it was way over $1,000 and only sold as a free-standing option so no package discounts. When my dealer was searching, there was only a couple withing 200 miles that had ABS.

    The 4.0L will easily haul a boat/jet ski. It's a very torquey engine and moves pretty well. If you have a hilly area, it won't stay in overdrive much because 4th gear is very tall on these trannys. I towed around 3500# fairly regularly with no issues.
  • justinjustin Member Posts: 1,918
    so models that have between 20k and 40k. they need a 30k service i assume? what fluids should be replaced right away on a used one? oil, transmission, differential?

    there are a couple of them at my Jeep dealer, but honestly, don't trust them to tell me exactly everything about the vehicles....
  • sebring95sebring95 Member Posts: 3,241
    I don't remember what all is required. The tranny fluid is due either 30k or 60k, transaxle fluid too. Not alot of maintenance on them really. You should be able to find an '01 with some warranty with those miles. Most you'll find at the Jeep dealer are lease returns though, likely 36 month leases (so out of warranty). Most leasors do as little maintenance as possible. You might find a private party sale if you can do that. I avoid dealers if at all possible!
  • mhall02mhall02 Member Posts: 38
    Our 2000 Sport with the 4.0 Liter and automatic is at 92,000 miles, bought it new in Nov. of 1999 and have had few problems. Change the oil and filter every 3,000 miles, drain the transmission pan and transfer case and top off every 30,000 miles, and drained and flushed the radiator twice. The most expensive warranty item so far I have had fixed (have the six year 100,000 mile warranty) is the evaporator coil. I hear that this isn't too uncommon of a problem with the Chrysler products, the evaporator coil for the 134a AC systems is much thinner than the old R12 units, thinner metal = more likely get a hole in it for whatever reason, would have been in excess of $700 w/o the warranty ($300 part + labor). The AW-4 automatic is solid, whines a little now and then (always has) but I don't think this is uncommon, shifts great. Great power out of the 4.0 inline six, gas milage is 16 city 20 stricly highway, very pleased with this vehicle and plan to have it till it drops.
  • timmer23timmer23 Member Posts: 24
    I bought and drove a '90 Laredo for 6 months before buying a '95 Country. The Laredo has been parked in my garage for 2 months. Now that I have decided to sell the Laredo, it has some sort of electrical problem.

    It starts up and runs fine, however the voltage meter is low. When the AC is turned on, the voltage gets lower. If the headlights are turned on, the voltage will decrease until the Jeep dies and has to be jump started. The battery and alternator have been tested, and both are good. What else could be causing this problem?
  • idntnvuidntnvu Member Posts: 254
    A friend of mine has a '93 Sport, and on his way home tonight, when going up a small hill, his Jeep quit accelerating, and just as he crested the hill, he lost power steering, and the a bit later, his power brakes...he used the emergency brake to slow down and pull over on the side of the road, and once he got down to a crawl, the engine died. He turned the key off, and then started it back up, and didn't have any other problems for the remainder of the drive home. My guess is either something in the fuel line or the computer. What do ya'll think?
  • mountainmama1mountainmama1 Member Posts: 3
    Thanks for the info about the dual fans. I believe that was the problem. Replaced the temperature sensor but I think the on/off switch is the culprit. Bypassing the problem at the moment by driving with the fan turned on. I guess my Cherokee is at that age where a lot of stuff is coming up. Now I'm having a stalling problem. Started cutting out at highway speeds, now doing it more often. Got a check engine light flash code of 32 which indicates the EGR valve but the '95 Cherokee doesn't have an EGR valve. Anybody know what the 32 code means on a '95 Cherokee or what replaced the EGR valve on that model?
  • Kirstie_HKirstie_H Administrator Posts: 11,148
    You might visit our Technical Questions discussion to see if one of our technically-gifted members knows what that code could mean.

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  • donsaddonsad Member Posts: 1
    I recently bought this vehicle. Can any one tell me how the alarm works. Turn off an on, adjust chirps, horn blowing etc...
  • monstrositymonstrosity Member Posts: 1
    maybe it's the voltage regulator
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