Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!

Jeep Cherokee

1293032343551

Comments

  • tommyjeep94tommyjeep94 Member Posts: 12
    RE the turn signal: If the prop is they are not canceling after a turn, you need to pull off the steering wheel to get at the canceling springs. If you have a Chiltons, etc. the procedure should be covered. You'll need a puller. Take care to remember how the horn parts go back in (make a sketch, take a photo, number them, etc.).

    RE the AC: If the compressor will not run, could be lack of refrigerant charge. A '90 would have been R12 OEM. You will need a R134a conversion. The root cause no refrig would be a leak. Parts stores sell leak detection kits. I do not have any experience using them. My '94 cherokee had a leak at the condenser. I replaced it with a new one ($150); did the work. You then need to pull a vacuum on the system to evac air, then charge. If your not familiar, I recommend a reputable radiator / AC service garage. They should have the proper equipment, gauges, etc. I wasted a lot of time an money by charging myself without evac'ing the air; pressures were very high. I was lucky I didn't damage the system.
  • design786design786 Member Posts: 14
    Hi:

    I have a 1996 Jeep Cherokee with 220K miles on it. Recently, I noticed that whenever I would turn the AC on when the engine is cold, a screeching sound would come for a short while (till the engine warm up). I replaced the Serpentine belt and tightened it to specification but the problem still remains. The AC pulley seems to be turning fine (belt is not skipping) while the compressor makes the sound. Could this be the sign of a bad compressor? Is it safe to replace a compressor by yourself - not take it to a garage?

    Thanks
  • vela1vela1 Member Posts: 3
    I have a 91 Cherokee. The maintenance required light is on.
    It cycles with the key on but comes on and stays on when I engage the starter.
    I do not have an owners manual and Chilton says nothing on it. Does any one know:
    1. is it some thing like needs oil change?
    2. O2 sensor needs check etc!
    3. HOW TO RESET IT
    Thanks
    Scott :surprise:
  • mullins87mullins87 Member Posts: 959
    You're calling this light a "maintenance required light". Do you also have a "Check Engine" light or a "Service Engine Soon" light? If so, it probably is just an oil change reminder, or something along those lines. How long have you had this Jeep and how many miles are on it?
  • dancermandancerman Member Posts: 220
    If this only occurs when the belt is cold then it needs to be a bit tighter. If it continues to occur even when hot then it may be a compressor giving out.
  • coewarcoewar Member Posts: 1
    Hey.. not sure if you solved your problem yet.. but I had a totally diff car with exactly the same symptoms. Letting it "cool" actually let the AIR trapped in the corroded FUEL LINE to escape, thus allowing enough fuel to get in and run the engine when starting.

    Took many mechanics digging around at useless things before one of them thought to check the fuel pressure. it was 50% of what it should have been, and discovery lead to a corroded fuel line. This was an '86 Cavalier, but that's irrelevant. Just a thought for you if you have been only focuses on electrical stuff.

    -Chris.
  • rich20rich20 Member Posts: 1
    What does it mean and what should I do? Car seems to be running ok.

    Thanks
  • mullins87mullins87 Member Posts: 959
    That check engine light could mean anything. If you don't want to use your local Jeep dealership, then take it to AutoZone. They will pull the codes for you for free. This code/codes will point you in the direction of where the problem lies.

    That light will come on when the computer notices a faulty signal from one, or more, of the sensors. Chances are the Jeep will run fine for a while. But, if igored long enough, small problems can turn into large ones.
  • vela1vela1 Member Posts: 3
    We have had the Jeep 2 weeks.
    202000 more or less. No owners manual. How do i reset the "maintenance required light? It is not the check engine light. I have disconected the battery to reset the computer but after normal kight cycle at switich on, lights lite then go off, wheh I engage the starter the light comes back on and stays on.
    So how do I turn it off/reset/?
  • rd75rd75 Member Posts: 10
    I have a 2001 Jeep Cherokee Classic, with the 4.0L inline 6 and 92,000 miles. I bought the Jeep 2 years ago with 60,000 miles on it. (it had been lady driven and was well pampered). About 6 months ago, during the winter, I noticed the electric cooling fan running often. It was very noticeable to me because I rarely have heard the fan kick on since I had owned it ( I rarely run the A/C, even in the summer). A couple days later the engine started overheating and I checked the coolant level and the reserve tank was empty and the radiator was low. I took it in to the shop, they believed the radiator was ruptured, even though there has never been a drop of antifreeze under the Jeep, so I got a new radiator. The problem persisted. About every week and a half or 2 weeks, I had to add coolant to the reserve tank because it would be almost empty and the engine would try to run past the 210 degree mark. Once again, there has never been a visible leak anywhere. I kept this up for a few months and finally took it back to the shop, where they tore the engine down and found the exhaust manifold for the first 3 cylinders was white and shiny inside where coolant had probably been burning off. The head was slightly warped so they machined it flat and magnafluxed it, and put on a new head gasket. Also they put in a new thermostat and oil pump. I am also having an oil pressure problem, when the engine is hot and at idle speed, the oil pressure will sometimes drop to about 1 or 2, prompting the check gauges light to come on. Checked it with a manual gauge, and it also read about 2-4 psi. Cleaned the oil pan, did a pressurized oil purge, and checked the receiving unit. After all this was done, a week or 2 later, all the problems are back. I have had to add coolant twice because the reserve tank was empty and the oil pressure is dropping to nothing at idle speed. I know it's a long post, but anyone had any similar problems or suggestions?
  • ironwoodironwood Member Posts: 1
    I recently bought a '98 Cherokee, 4.0L, that does not have the factory tow package but has an aftermarket class 3 hitch installed. I would like to determine whether or not the radiator is the heavy-duty version or not. Also, if by chance the auxillary transmission cooler was installed. I realize that this is probably not the case, but would like to check first before having them installed. Is there a way to determine which radiator is installed? Also, where would I look for the auxillary transmission cooler? Thanks! I need to haul an MGB from Oregon to Arizona, things could get pretty hot!
  • astemastem Member Posts: 6
    I have a '01 Sport I bought used. The Jeep runs very smooth under 50 and over 55. Although when I'm that range it shakes, but not too bad. It gets worse when I apply the brakes. Is this the brakes, rotors? I need help to get an idea before I take it to a dealer. Also, are there any good after-market parts I should get that are better than the oem?

    HELP
  • sebring95sebring95 Member Posts: 3,241
    Sounds a lot like a tire issue, have you done anything with them as far as rotating etc? Could just need balalnced or you could have an out-of-round tire.

    When you hit the brakes, does it shake/vibrate at all higher speeds (not just between 50-55)? The rotors on these aren't that great and aftermarket pads/rotors tends to help with that.
  • mullins87mullins87 Member Posts: 959
    Well, it's probably something as simple as my parent's Odyssey. They cycle the key off and on, three times within 5 seconds, then push and hold the tripometer reset button for 20 seconds. I'd call your local dealership. Being an OBD-I system, I wouldn't think it would be very difficult.
  • tommyjeep94tommyjeep94 Member Posts: 12
    To check if previous owner installed a heavy duty radiator (3-row) measure the rad's thickness. The top metal plate on a standard 2-row rad is approx 1-1/4" thick; a 3-row rad would be approx 1-7/8" thick. A tranny fluid cooler would typically be mounted on the front (air inlet) of either the air conditioning condenser or radiator. You should see small diameter tubing / flex hose connecting the tranny cooler to the (1) tranny fluid outlet on the radiator and (2) tranny fluid return to the tranny. Good luck.
  • rob336rob336 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2000, Jeep Cherokee Sport, 84,000 miles.
    Am having the same problem with the oil pressure gauge. My mechanic says it will be one of two items, either oil pump OR main bearings going out. Will try oil pump first. Hoping that solves the problem. If not on to main bearings. Good luck and pass on any info you might discover.
    Thank - Rob in Tampa, FL
  • dancermandancerman Member Posts: 220
    Sounds bad. Did you have low oil pressure before the coolant problem? What was the source of the coolant leaking into the cylinders? Head checked OK, maybe engine block is cracked.
  • astemastem Member Posts: 6
    Thanks Sebring95,

    No I haven't rotated the tires, but just had my oil changed and tires pressure was checked @ 35psi per tire. The front left seems to have a little more wear on the outside, but it's not very noticable.

    The jeep only shakes at 50-55. When I'm going 60-75 it runs very smooth, and when putting on the brakes only shakes in that one range. What do think.
  • eddie12eddie12 Member Posts: 1
    I also have a vibration problem with my 1993 Jeep Cherokee country 4wd 4.0ltr. 108,000 miles. Jeep runs great but after driving about an hour or so the front end goes to shaking like the suspension is about to fallout. It starts about 35 miles and hour and gets worse with increased speed. The only way to stop it is slow down and maybe stop and then start again. It stayed in the shop for two weeks and there are no suspension problems and appears to be a electrical system break down but the dealer can never get it to do it. When the car is shaking the RPM's are steady and no variance. When at idle it will never do this. the tires and wheels are good and balanced. I NEED HELP Eddie12
  • sebring95sebring95 Member Posts: 3,241
    I'd surely look at the tires first. It's not uncommon for a tire to come unbalanced or even out-of-round over time and cause a vibration in a cetain range. I had a Toytoa pickup that did the same thing, couldn't drive it at 55mph, but 70mph was ok.

    You could try rotating your tires (if you want to do it yourself) and see if the vibration changes. You notice vibrations on the front more than the rear.

    Or you could just have the tires rebalanced and see what happens. Tell the tire shop aobut your problem so they can check for an out-of-round tire.
  • riverhawkriverhawk Member Posts: 9
    My beloved 1993 JGC was just stolen and trashed. I was drooling over the 2005 and just assumed I would buy one. But after test driving a rental I am having second thoughts. Power plant, drivetrain, suspension all were unbelievably slick. I like the look but miss the visibility of all the tall glass. Interior looks like high design. OK, the back seat is nothing more than a ledge but so what...in my car no one's ever back there. But that front elbow rest??!! It's too hard, placed too far away and too low. My elbow hits right near the hard edge. All I think about while driving is what to do with my arm and how to adjust the driver's seat to get as much as my arm on it as I can. And I'm a big guy! The left arm rest in the door is a brick as well. I'm afraid if I buy it, that's all I'll think about. So now I'm considering buying a late model used JGC just to get a softer armrest. But I want that 2005. What's a guy to do?? And BTW after the cops called me to retrieve my '93 from a back alley, the thief returned to the scene while I was waiting for a tow and we nabbed him. He's now in the cooler!
  • mullins87mullins87 Member Posts: 959
    I am so sorry to hear about your loss. I hope that crook spends some time in jail, however he probably won't.

    My wife and I looked at the '05. We didn't drive one, but we couldn't get over the smaller size. It appears to be the same size as my Cherokee. And besides, I'm a huge fan of that inline six 4.0L. The '05 has the 3.7L V-6. I know of several folks around here that have the Dodge Dakota's with the 3.7L in them and most have had a catastrophic engine failure before 100k miles. Lots seem to be oil related. We opted for an '04 GC with only 13k miles.
  • jeepgirl3jeepgirl3 Member Posts: 10
    I have a '94 Cherokee Sport with 206,000 miles on it. It currently has the shakes, and has had them before, just like yours (50-55mph). In the past the shakes or death rattle as I like to call it, was due to poor tire balance and uneven tire wear. If the tires aren't too worn you will probably get relief with just a balance and rotate. If they are worn unevenly, you may have to get new tires. If the shaking occurs when braking at those speeds it could be your brake rotors. I had a set of bad rotors that caused the shaking, they were recalled and I got new ones for free. I am trying to push off getting new tires for a couple of months, so I am trying not to drive at speeds between 50&55mph.
  • jeep_dude07jeep_dude07 Member Posts: 1
    Hello,

    I had the same issue a few years back. The light kept coming on due to sensitivity with the gas cap. Took the Jeep into the dealer and they had a new flash they ran on the software that made it less sensitive and hasn't caused a problem since knock wood.

    J
  • wojo2wojo2 Member Posts: 13
    What is the cost and part # for the abs controller. My jeep is identical to yours. My abs light
    has been on for abour 8 months. But, the brakes still work excellently. Any help would be
    appreciated.

    Thanks
  • billersbillers Member Posts: 2
    I have just discovered the same problem with my 2000 jeep cherokee with 110,000 miles on it. i bought it almost three years ago with 51,000 miles on it. it overheated in april (on my birthday no less) i brought it to a local quicklube as they were right by where it happened. they flushed radiator and sent me on my way, told me to check back with them in a few days. i did and everything was fine. happened again a month later. brought it to my shop. they couldnt see any leaks, couldnt figure it out, did a dye test and sent me on my way. a month later, this happened again. they said it could be head gasket since they couldnt find leaks, but wanted to be sure. did more tests. they determined it was head gasket but they couldnt fix it then, told me to think about it and let them know what i wanted to do. in the meantime they said to keep adding antifreeze and call them when i could find a week to part with the car. so, i did what they said and three weeks ago, called to make an appt. in total the span has been about three+ months. they have been busy and couldnt get the car in right away. in the meantime, it got to the point where i was adding a gallon of coolant a week and in the last week, after engine has been warmed up, when i am idling, the oil gauge drops to zero and the check gauges light comes on. it has also been "knocking". so, when i brought it in for head gasket, i told them. they checked it, told me that water has leaked into oil pan and my engine is shot. they are now telling me i need a new engine and that the car isnt worth it (told me about $3,500 for reconditioned engine). i have taken great care of this car and bring it in as i should for oil changes etc. i feel like if they had told me i needed the new head gasket and i should get it done immediately, i wouldnt have the engine problem now. I just brought it to a new mecahnic for a second opinion. i really want to save the car, its in great shape and i always thought jeeps run forever. i fact, i still owe $6,000 on it. if all else fails and i have to trade it in and get another car, i would like another jeep, but now i am a little put off by them. my original mechanic said this is a very unsual problem, but i am now hearing that it isnt, from other people i have been talking to.
  • mullins87mullins87 Member Posts: 959
    I'm so sorry to hear about your problems. Unfortunately, coolant leaking into the oil is a common problem with a leaking head gasket. If the coolant wasn't running out onto the ground, or if the Jeep wasn't smoking like a freight train, the only place left for it to go was into the oil pan. :sick: I hate it that your mechanic was such a moron for in effect telling you to keep driving it. :mad:

    Maybe your second mechanic will give you a little brighter picture. You can buy used 4.0L engines on Ebay all day long for well under $1,000. Of course, if you don't have the mechanical ability to put a motor in yourself, inclination to try it yourself, and/or the facilities and tools to do it, then you're at a mechanics mercy. I may be wrong, and someone correct me if I am, but any 4.0L out of an '01 Cherokee or an '01 to '04 Grand Cherokee can be used. Those will be a direct replacement, simply bolt it in and plug it in, no modifications at all. Engines out of '96 to '00 Cherokees and Grand Cherokees can also be used, but some electrical modifications will be needed.

    Let us know how it goes.
  • komocaziekomocazie Member Posts: 1
    My wifes jeep (2001 jeep cherokee sport 4.0 L) is having a problem with the abs. Just before coming to a stop it feels like the abs kicks in and it starts at 10 mph and stops right before a complete stop. it does this at every stop, were not jammin on the breaks or anything like that but anyway i hope someone can help. Also the check engine light is on and i heard there is a way to retrieve problem codes by turning the igntion on and off without getting a spendy obd II scanner (we dont have autozones in Alaska) Any help is greatly appreciated and thanks in advance.
  • rscposeyrscposey Member Posts: 1
    I have a 03 Sport and it does the same thing. I have paid over $400 to have it rotated and balanced and then rotated and balanced again, it does not fix it. I tried different tires and still shakes. Do you have a lift on your jeep. I have a lift but the lift guys tell me it is right. If you hit the brakes at the right time it will snatch your arms off. I have had all sorts of people look at mine and can not find the problem. I love my jeep but I am at my last draw and and looking to trade because it is dangerous to drive.
  • mullins87mullins87 Member Posts: 959
    $400 to have your tires rotated and balanced?????!!!!!??? I hope that $400 includes more than just tires. If the Jeep, or any vehicle for that matter, pulls to one side when you hit your brakes, then you've got a caliper problem. Sounds to me like one of the calipers is applying pressure before the other one. Could be the one is partially stuck in its bore and therefore the piston isn't moving as freely as it should. Also, check to make sure one of the brake lines isn't kinked. This would cause a momentary pressure differential between the two front calipers, causing the problem you describe. If your wheels have a small amount of backspacing, meaning they stick out further than the factory wheels, then they will amplify a problem like this. Check for any loose steering components as well. A loose tie rod end can also have symptoms similar to those you describe. Is it hard to steer otherwise? Is the trackbar and draglink parallel to one another? With a lift, it's possible they aren't. I've never experienced the so-called "death wobble." I've been told that "death wobble" can occur if those two aren't parallel. I'm wondering if you could have a form of it.

    What does the dealer think?
  • mullins87mullins87 Member Posts: 959
    I'm not aware of any way to do that on an OBD-II vehicle, if I'm wrong them someone correct me. I know you could do that on the older OBD-I vehicles. The code scanners at AutoZone won't detect ABS problems anyway. I've got one of the Actron scanners that AutoZone sells. I think it's the same one they use. Mine will not pick up ABS codes. Sometimes I wish that I had laid out the cash for one of the more complete scanners. My scanner has saved me well over the $150 price tag in repairs. But, like I said above, I wish I had purchased one of the more complete scanners. Seems like I've seen those priced in the $400 range.

    Are you a big fan of ABS??? Living in Alaska you could be. Living in the midwest, I'm not a big fan. Of course I don't drive on snow/ice very often. If it were mine, I'd be tempted to disconnect the ABS module and wait for the light to burn out. Or you could pull the instrument cluster and pull the bulb out.
  • sbmackiesbmackie Member Posts: 7
    I recently purchased an '01 Cherokee Sport, automatic, 4x4. It didn't have factory cruise. The dealer, in good faith, indicated I could install either an aftermarket cruise or for mo' money a factory cruise. Well, some phone calls indicate MOPAR doesn't make the kits anymore, and also raised questions about compatibility issues re: down loading computer codes, etc.

    So: Does anybody have any experience with this? What parts do I need? I've heard a wiring harness, a servo/control unit, and a steering wheel with the buttons installed.

    If this won't work, what is the best aftermarket cruise that looks as close to factory as possible?

    Thanks
    Scott :confuse:
  • sbmackiesbmackie Member Posts: 7
    Dave (if that is your name)
    My dealers here in Albuquerque are telling me I can't get OEM parts to install a cruise controal in my recently purchased '01 Sport.

    How did you get the parts????

    Thanks
    Scott MacKie
  • jobbagyjobbagy Member Posts: 1
    my 1989 jeep is running about 15 degrees too hot, i"ve changed the thermostat,
    water pump seems to be ok, radiator seems to be ok. could the a/c condensor
    be the problem if it is old and plugged up on the surface with bugs,debris....

    4.0 V-6 4x4
  • mullins87mullins87 Member Posts: 959
    Bugs plugging up the condensor could be the problem.
  • nosugarnosugar Member Posts: 2
    Can't open the lift gate with the remote. I read somewhere you can use the key. Where????? If not, what could the problem be and how much might it cost to get it repaired. I can't fix the brake lights without opening the darn lift gate.
  • nosugarnosugar Member Posts: 2
    Wow, that was fast reply. OK, I'm a girl, what is the condensor, where is it, can I just fix this myself???
  • drake3drake3 Member Posts: 2
    i have a 87 with the 4.0 six and it runs great for the first two or three mins then it runs ruff and pops threw the throttle body, and if you give it gas then it dies, and will not run right again until the following morning. I have replaced the o2 censor and the throttle postioning censor, and tried a different ecu and distributor still no change wondering if anyone out there might know what the problem might be?
  • mullins87mullins87 Member Posts: 959
    The condensor is what you see when you look through the grill, it looks just like a radiator. As air enters the grill, it first passes through the A/C condensor (that is if the vehicle has A/C) then through the radiator. If the condensor is plugged up with bugs or dirt, then the radiator doesn't get a sufficient amount of air to operate properly.

    You can try using a water hose to flush the debris out. Infact, you might not even have to remove the grill - which is very easy to do, four screws across the top and the grill tilts out. Standard household water pressure shouldn't be strong enough to damage anything, so go ahead and really flush it out. If that doesn't work, then remove the grill and use a bristled brush to clean it out. Using the brush and lots of water, run the brush up and down along the direction of the fins on the condensor. Be somewhat careful when doing this as the fins are very thin aluminum and are fairly easy to bend. If you do happen to bend some, don't panic, they can be straightened out with some patience. It takes a considerable hit to rupture the condensor. However, every bent fin does help to restrict airflow.

    If you don't have access to outside water at your house, you can use the coin operated car wash. Set it to rinse so all you are spraying is water. You do need to be careful if you go this route as a pressure sprayer will bend the fins and/or damage the condensor. I wouldn't get the tip of the sprayer closer than 1.5' to 2'.

    I hope this helps! :D
  • mullins87mullins87 Member Posts: 959
    Before you go any further changing sensors and looking at the electronics, have you verified that there are no mechanical problems? Sounds to me like it may have jumped time. Or possibly one or more valves are sticking in the open position once they get hot.
  • drake3drake3 Member Posts: 2
    ty so much for your reply, do you have any suggestions on what i should do.
  • mullins87mullins87 Member Posts: 959
    Well, for lack of any better way to check, this is a suggestion. Crank the engine and let it run until it starts acting up. Shut it off. Then pull the valve cover off. Look for any valves that have really loose rocker arms. Those valves could be stuck in the open position. You can even start the engine with the valve cover off, just be careful of the hot oil. I've run engines at idle with the covers off and didn't have any problems, with the exception of one engine. It would squirt oil everywhere at idle. So just be aware of that possibility. No real hazard other than it being hot if it hits you and it will make a BIG mess. Look at the rocker arms and valve stems as the engine idles. You are looking for any valves not coming all the way up to closed. If everything seems fine there, then I'd check the valve train timing. I'm assuming you have checked the ignition timing and all the ignition wires are on correctly. To check the valve train timing, you have to completely remove everything from the front of the engine and remove the timing cover. The cover is behind the water pump and harmonic balancer. :cry: Once you pull that cover off, you should see two sprockets with a chain connecting them. The lower sprocket is the end of the crankshaft and the upper sprocket is the end of the camshaft. Roll the engine over to Top Dead Center - this is when the #1 cylinder is at the top of its compression stroke. There should be a dimple, dot or mark of some sort on the lower sprocket. When this mark is pointing straight up, then the #1 piston is at the top of its stroke. There should be a corresponding mark on the upper sprocket. If it is also pointing up at this point, then roll the engine over another full rotation. At this point, the mark on the upper sprocket should be pointing straight down while the mark on the lower sprocket should be pointing straight up. They will be "facing" each other. If they are not lined up, then the engine has jumped time and the sprockets and chain will most likely need to be replaced. An engine will jump time when these wear out.

    I hope this helps. Good luck.
  • g1swiftg1swift Member Posts: 1
    How do you take off the pressure hoses with the plastic clip, without damaging or breaking it? I am trying to install a new radiator!!!!
  • mullins87mullins87 Member Posts: 959
    Do these connectors have the two plastic tabs sticking out? If so, squeeze them together with your fingers, or use caution with some pliers, and gently pull it out. You may have to work it a little side-to-side to get it loose.

    If there are no plastic tabs sticking out, then go to AutoZone, or some other parts store, and buy a quick disconnect tool kit. If you know what size you need, then you'll only have to buy the one. They should be less than $5 each.
  • cptjacksparrowcptjacksparrow Member Posts: 1
    I would say that you need a new fuel pump and or filter, most likely the pump considering its age. -ryan
  • shadow21shadow21 Member Posts: 1
    I have the same problem with my 98 Cherokee Sport 4.0l with 211,000 miles. I think it may just be a loose wire in the dash since the Speedometer + Tach will start working if I press the Trip Odometer but that does not always work. The Airbag light goes off as soon as they start working again. Do you have an Automatic or manual trans? I have seen some references to a speed sensor but I believe that is only for an automatic and mine is manual. Did you have any luck figuring it out on your 99? Mine just started happening today and I need the Odometer to record mileage for work.
  • melanbeemelanbee Member Posts: 1
    Hi, I have a 96 Jeep Grand Cherokee and the coolant sensor light has been coming on and off for about the past two months. It will go on for a few seconds then it will go off again and stay off for maybe a week. Then it will do it again. I haven't noticed a trend in the timing. I have had the coolant levels checked and my boyfriend replaced the sensor for me. I live an hour away from a Jeep dealership and my local mechanic refuses to look at Jeeps (says they are a nightmare to work on). I was just wondering before I took it all the way over there if anyone had any ideas as to what the problem could be. The dealership seems to think its a computer problem which could run hundreds to fix. Other than this the vehicle is running great. It had a tune-up last Nov. and just had an oil change done.
  • mnelson1mnelson1 Member Posts: 1
    MY 2001 CHEROKEE INSTRUMENTS(TACH,SPEEDO AND THE CHK ENGINE COMES ON) GO ON AND OFF AFTER I HIT A BUMP. IS THERE A CONNECTION TO CHECK?
  • kenshomikenshomi Member Posts: 2
    I have a 1999, 96k,Sport that is currently running around 210
    both when towing and by itself. I have replaced the thermostat, and water pump.

    I guess the only thing left is the radiator - Unless 210 isn't too bad?

    In the last six month I have replaced the air conditioner condenser, water pump,
    is it time for a ne vehicle? seems like $500 of something every couple months...
  • mullins87mullins87 Member Posts: 959
    Is the coolant sensor light only supposed to alert you to low coolant? If so, I'd ignore it if you knew the coolant level is ok.
Sign In or Register to comment.