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Jeep Cherokee

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Comments

  • mullins87mullins87 Member Posts: 959
    210* is normal for a Jeep. I personally don't like it, but the engineers didn't ask me. I have three Jeeps - '04 Grand Cherokee, '01 Cherokee, '95 Wrangler. All of them ran 210* from the factory.
  • kenshomikenshomi Member Posts: 2
    Mine use to run at 180 - If 210 is the norm then so be it.
    I might toss a aftermarket radiator in for next summers boat towing season!

    Thanks for the feed back!
  • ironmongerironmonger Member Posts: 2
    My 2001 Jeep Cherokee is kicking out a 'catalyst below threshold message', and after replacing the O2 sensors, (CA emissions package type...4 O2 sensors...), the trouble persists.
    I have also replaced the fuel injectors which helped the idle roughness and fuel milage, but can't seem to find a cheap, (relatively speaking) way around the replacement of the converters.
    The dealer wants around $450 for the 'Y' pipe and converters.
    Any one have a source for new units? I don't mind welding them in the line if neccessary, but I would like to find something for less money.
    Just a cheap b*****d at heart... :)
  • smoov1smoov1 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 98 Cherokee Sport. We have been having problems with it suddenly overheating when the A/C is running, it jumps all the way to the right on the temp gauge and the check engine light comes on. We took it to the Jeep dealership twice so far and they don't seem to know what is wrong with it. They have replaced the thermostat, water pump, spark plugs, gas kit (?), hoses and made sure the head gasket was okay.

    Do you think I need a new radiator? Have spent so much already and I love this Jeep and don't want to get rid of it! This has been the only problem we have ever had with it.

    Thanks in advance!
  • btbarbourbtbarbour Member Posts: 2
    Did you replace your ABS controller yourself? I have a 97 Grand Cherokee with 84k and I need to replace mine too. The local dealer wants $1500 to do it.
  • thorsnakethorsnake Member Posts: 14
    I had a mechanic recently replace a fuel pump. I had some major hesitation problems that were hard to diagnos. I still have a very very small hesitation problem right at start up. I'm near 80k miles. It's about time to replace the O2 sensor. When a sensor is bad what are the symptoms? Plus if I replace it, how do you reset the computer. I understand at 82,500k a dash light will come one.
    Any help would be much appreciated :)
  • mwj963mwj963 Member Posts: 1
    Hi! I'm new to this but have a problem with my 2001 Cherokee Classic. I have owned it 18 months and it has 90,000 miles. It runs like a little champ - no problems at all except the check engine light came on about 6 weeks and three trips to the mechanic and still no answer. The o2 sensor has been replaced (I have the CA emissions I discover) and a full 90K mile tune up and still the light comes on. It is always off when I leave the shop but within a few hours usually in line at a fast food (diet cokeaholic!) it comes back on. I wouldn't have thought the drive thru had anything to do with it but 3 times that's where the light reappeared - at idle with foot on brake. Mechanic laughs - openly! So now $1k into this - what's the problem? Also, should I expect the mechanic to fix the problem now without charge - well really pre-paid. Thanks for any help.
  • dancermandancerman Member Posts: 220
    Is your electric fan working OK? It's the only thing that comes to mind.
  • mullins87mullins87 Member Posts: 959
    Take it to AutoZone. They will scan the computer and pull the codes for free. At least then you might have some idea of what's going on. Ask them what they think, sometimes they will have a decent shadetree mechanic working for them. I know my local AutoZone has a really good parts person working for them. He has helped me out a lot in the past. But that's a crapshoot, you don't know. Sounds like your mechanic is just replacing the sensors one at a time, then clearing the trouble code so the light will go off.

    Write down the trouble code, could be more than one. Then sit down at your computer and do a search on each one. Several articles should pop up concerning the code/codes. If you have more than one code, look for a common thread. Good luck.
  • matthew20matthew20 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 1999 Jeep Cherokee and I have a problem with the vent door not staying on the setting that it should be. For example, when i turn defrost on, air blows through at low air speed, but if i turn the blower up, the door closes and it sounds like it closes the air off. The other settings are fine.

    Thanks for any help
  • mycpgmycpg Member Posts: 2
    Have a 2000 jeep cher/sport...98,000 miles on it. just had some repair work done on it few weeks ago...replaced a valve seal and a few other things, I'd have to ask my husband for sure what all they did. Trusted mechanic though. Anyhow he (my husband) is very frustrated...now after I drive it for a while (maybe 15 miles) and come to a stop such as a red light or stop sign, after a few seconds the oil pressure drops down to zero and the check engine light comes on. Nobody seems to know why it's doing this...not even the dealership (but that's no surprise). The light comes on and the oil pressure drops to zero at a little under the #1 on the rpm gage. Anyone have any ideas? Trying to save my husband from some frustration. If I give it gas (if in park or neutral while waiting for a light to change) and get the rpm a little past #1 the light goes off and the oil pressure goes back up. Help me somebody please! Thanks in advance! :confuse:
    Roxie
  • casandranowcasandranow Member Posts: 14
    Hey all, I went back and checked through some of the older posts and I didn't see this specific thing covered, so I thought I'd ask anyway.

    I just recently had my 95 Cherokee Emissions Tested and Inspected, It took some rear brake pads and some type of regulator swtich for the reverse lights malfunctioning. The mechanic also said that part, which was pretty expensive, could have been causing the hesitation in starting as well. I would turn the key and it would just whir for a moment and then not start. Try it again and then it normally would. So I think everything is all fine and fixed and now today at lunch I couldn't get the key lock off, the steering wheel froze. Finally I got it after ten minutes of wrangling with it.

    But now my radio/clock, wipers and AC aren't working. And the day before that the ignition problem started again. Could the mechanic have not installed the part correctly, or is this something completely different? And should I make a point not to drive it until it's fixed?

    Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
  • billersbillers Member Posts: 2
    I have the exact same problem with my 2000 sport with 110,000. thats how i found this site. i posted my problem a few pages back. i brought mine to three different mechanics. Dont know what caused the problem, other than that water got into the oil pan and ruined motor. i had two places tell me the vehicle wasnt worth it, but i love it (and still owe money on it) so i took it to a third place, who said i have taken very good care of it and i should get it fixed. i am replacing the motor with a motor that has 57,000 miles on it and a 6 mth warranty. cost is $2,000 installed. Most likely what happened to me happened to you. a problem was misdiagnosed and not fixed in time and ruined motor. seeing that they are same age and mileage, must be a defect or something. when oil pressure drops like that it can only mean need new motor. sorry!
  • mycpgmycpg Member Posts: 2
    Oh that's not what I was hoping to hear. When we had it fixed there was water leaking into the oil pan. So he installed a new radiator, and all the valve seals. He said he thought there might be a cracked block, but there wasn't. He also said we had taken very good care of it. Before we had it fixed the water temp was sky high and the oil was low. Now all of that is good, however, after running it for a little while and come to a stop, i'm losing oil pressure and the check engine light comes on and the rpm goes just a tad below #1. Other than that....I love my jeep and I really don't want the problem to get worse. I don't know if it's safe to drive? My husband talked with the local jeep dealership and believe it or not...they said "oh I don't know...never worked on a 2000 before" hello! I couldn't believe my ears! They didn't even know what it should be idling at! Do you happen to know? Thanks in advance!
  • mullins87mullins87 Member Posts: 959
    Water cannot get into the oil pan from a faulty radiator or valve guides. That happens from either a cracked block or blown head gasket. "mycpg" does not need to drive it any further. You need to go out and check the oil level. I'll bet that you'll have a "chocolate milky" mess on the dipstick. That will ruin an engine. Just because it has happened does not mean the engine is shot. I have a '78 Grand Prix sitting in the garage right now that once got a good shot of water in the oil. However, it was only driven about 15 miles before I noticed a problem. That was several years ago as the car hasn't been driven in 15 years, but I did put about 60k miles on it after that happened with no problems. The reason why the oil pressure is dropping is due to water being 'thinner' than oil. The water/oil mixture will flow through the oil filter and bearing journals more freely than oil alone, therefore hardly any pressure is built at idle.
  • rd75rd75 Member Posts: 10
    I am still having the coolant loss problem that I described in my previous post. The dealership that has been working on it is to the point that they have no more ideas other than to replace the block. However, I have a hard time believing there is a crack in the block without any other symptoms. Now I did notice something a few days ago. I found a very small area of water under what I think is the heater core drain hose. It is a short hose coming out of the firewall in front of heater core and points downward. I wiped it off and tasted it and it didn't really taste like antifreeze, just dirty water. My first question, is this hose a heater core drain, and secondly, could this water just be condensation or is it possibly coolant?
  • strokerace1strokerace1 Member Posts: 2
    I have a 2001 Jeep Cherokee Sport with 115,000 miles on it. I live on the East Coast so I use the a/c in the summer. I recently took my Jeep in for servicing and had the freon re-filled. 1 week later the a/c is blowing hot air. I took it back and was told that the evaporator is leaking and needs to be replaced. Cost for the job $1,200. The service person told me that these break all of the time on Jeeps and that they were made wrong from the start. I have been reading about Jeep eavporator problems all over the internet in the past few days. Is there a recall on this part? How do we start Chrysler on the road to fixing this problem? I am wondering if the dealer popped the evaporator by putting too much freon in the lines? Sounds like an easy way to make tons of money! Any thoughts would be appreciated
  • chippy13chippy13 Member Posts: 1
    Im having trouble with my Jeep Cherokee, when I first start it up sometimes the engine sputters and shuts down im getting less than 500RPMs once it warms up its fine. its like its not getting enough air through the Carborator am I right with this and does anyone have some more suggestions
    Thanks
  • mullins87mullins87 Member Posts: 959
    Is there any water showing up in the oil??
  • dancermandancerman Member Posts: 220
    That short hose sticking out of the firewall on the passenger side is the drain line for your A/C condensation. It should drip water when your A/C is being used. Refer to my post #1463 for a picture.
  • rd75rd75 Member Posts: 10
    No, we have drained and purged the oil twice, and there is no evidence whatsoever of water in the oil. I know it doesn't take much coolant to turn the oil milky. Although this is a slow coolant leak, I have just used over 3 gallons of coolant in the last 7 months when this all started, that much coolant in the oil by now should be pretty evident.
  • esteggellesteggell Member Posts: 1
    Hi there, I need some advice. My 1989 Jeep Cherokee was working well ok I guess, until today when my husband tried to fix the pasaanger window. You see since I bought it the window has been stuck 1/2 way down. Anyway that is not my problem, whatever he touched is. He looked at the wiring under the dash (under glove box) In there he saw a few wires that were bare and looked like they had been melting, well he taped them so they were no longer exposed, at some point Iguess he says the wires touched the silver metal box that is mounted in there.. I think this is the Engine COntrol Module (by the way , what does this box control?) but I am not sure... Now the Jeep will turn over fine, but it stalls out like it is getting no gas?? :sick: Could this box be the problem or is there something else I should look at. We live 16 miles out of town in a national forest soooo, I really need to get this running!!! Please any help would be great. :confuse:
  • thepdmmthepdmm Member Posts: 82
    I have a popping noise coming from the front end of the jeep (can't tell which side) when I make sharp turns backing up or going forward (usually at low parking lot type speeds)

    I know a guy that has a jeep and said it is normal but a low popping (almost a bang kind of noise) just doesn't sound normal to me? any thoughts? opinions?

    thanks
  • turbotech110turbotech110 Member Posts: 1
    I wanted to say, I have a '99 and I have the exact same problem as you said. This is the aw-4 tranny.
  • timmer23timmer23 Member Posts: 24
    I replaced the front-right disc brake caliper ealier this year after it had practically locked up on the rotor. A month ago I realized that the new caliper is dragging as well.

    What could the problem be? One mechanic told me it may be the brake line, however fluid comes out with no apparent problem when I disconnect the caliper. I have no problem pushing the piston back in.

    Another mechanic said I should have replaced both front calipers instead of just the one, because the newer caliper may be getting more pressure. What should I do?
  • mullins87mullins87 Member Posts: 959
    Yes, it is a good idea to replace those in pairs. The mechanic could be right. An obstruction in the line may allow fluid to come out, but restrict it just enough to cause the caliper to drag.
  • timmer23timmer23 Member Posts: 24
    Should I go ahead and replace the left-side caliper, or try replacing both now? Or how would I go about clearing the line of an obstruction?
    I don't think it really matters, but this is on a '91 Cherokee Laredo 4x4.
  • dancermandancerman Member Posts: 220
    When you replace calipers also replace the hoses. Any blockage is more than likely in the hose not the steel lines. Be sure to flush the old fluid before putting on the new parts.
  • dancermandancerman Member Posts: 220
    Not dripping on ground or in the oil then must be getting into the combustion chamber. Compression check may give some insight to the location. May be a crack somewhere in the cylinder head.
  • kpjoycekpjoyce Member Posts: 1
    One of the front brakes on my 94 cherokee with 140k miles is dragging. I couldn't find any problems with the pads, rotors or calipers. My mechanic is now telling me that the problem is the brackets that hold the pads in place. He says that the "knuckles" on either side of the pads have become worn and the pad is getting caught in grooves, preventing them from releasing with the caliper. The whole wheel assembly would have to be disassembled to replace this expensive part. Is this a problem that anyone has heard of before? If these parts need replacement, salvage parts make sense to me, and not $300 new ones.
    Does any of this ring true with you?
  • daytonajoedaytonajoe Member Posts: 2
    I have a 96 jeep cherokee and last week the knob that you pull to turn on the head and dash lights would not pull out all the way to let the headlights come on. I sprayed wd-40 in the switch and it let me pull it out all the way to get the headlights on but the dashlights and tail lights do not come on now. I replaced the switch and the knob but I can not get the dash lights and tail lights to stay on. they will come on if you pull the switch out to just a certain spot but any further and they go off. Any suggestions would be appreciated
  • daytonajoedaytonajoe Member Posts: 2
    I have a 96 jeep cherokee and last week the knob that you pull to turn on the head and dash lights would not pull out all the way to let the headlights come on. I sprayed wd-40 in the switch and it let me pull it out all the way to get the headlights on but the dashlights and tail lights do not come on now. I replaced the switch and the knob but I can not get the dash lights and tail lights to stay on. they will come on if you pull the switch out to just a certain spot but any further and they go off. Any suggestions would be appreciated
  • rickhiserickhise Member Posts: 1
    I have the same problem when i go from 1 position to 3 or 4, for my blower speed a flap slams shut and the only air coming out is through the small vents over the regular blower vents, can i fix this if so please tell me how , ill pay u for the info desperate.
  • bille1bille1 Member Posts: 1
    My 2000 4.0 has about 85K. I change fluids on schedule and take good care of the car. Over the last 6 months I have noticed that when the vehicle reaches a little over 210 the fan engages. The only time this occurs is when i have been idling. The vehicle usually runs around 200 while i am driving.

    I noticed the fan starting to engage during the winter when i had the heater on. I originally thought it was the engine at high idle because it made no sense to me that the fan would engage during the winter. I also noticed that the same condition did not occur as often in the winter when i used the defroster. With the AC on during the summer the fan would engage if I happened to be at idle for not too long of a time.

    Any advice/thoughts?
    Thanks
  • dancermandancerman Member Posts: 220
    My '99 electric fan kicks on at about 210F also. I think that's normal. What you should try to find out is.... why is your engine running hotter than normal. A few things to check:

    Radiator dirty or blocked.
    Coolant system needs flushed.
    Mechanical fan clutch failure.
    Temperature sensor no longer accurate (going bad or has become corroded).
    Water pump not pumping.
    Mechanical fan shroud missing (not likely)

    I am also stumped as to why turning the heater on would cause the fan to turn on. Usually heater use helps cool the engine (essentually adds another radiator to the mix). I believe when you defrost, the A/C is powered and will kick on if the outside temperature is not too low.

    I'd try replacing the temperature sensor. Maybe it's not giving a true reading because it's corroded. Perhaps using the heater somehow aggravates the condition (more flow to heater, less flow to sensor - higher reading).

    Not sure any of this is helpful, but thought I'd offer a few.

    Keep us posted. :)
  • bgregorybgregory Member Posts: 1
    I have the same exact problem. It is a metal sounding pop/click/bang when sharp turning at low speeds usually in a parking lot or turning into the driveway.

    My problem started after replacing the hub assembly. Original hub began to squeel so I replaced it. Once I put the first new hub in, the suspension pop began immediately. Returned the new hub for another new one and the popping went away for a few weeks but now it is back. Anybody have any ideas?
  • ed96ed96 Member Posts: 20
    does anyone know how much trans fluid is drained by removing drain plug from cherokee trans pan without removing pan .
    thanks
  • bullit1bullit1 Member Posts: 3
    They all do that .my limited 1999 is the same way. you deal with it or sell it . i love my jeep but its more like driving an old truck with a cadilac body on it . just get an ALPINE and a subwoofer you wont here a thing :)
  • bullit1bullit1 Member Posts: 3
    auto or manu. ?what year? and does it have a drain?mine dont.
  • esilverhawkesilverhawk Member Posts: 1
    1992 Larado with 4.0HO.
    All the other gauges/RPM indicators work.

    I have replace the speed sensor.
    I have swapped out the dash control panel (speed/RPM/gauges)
    I had a mechanic hook it up to his computer. He said he did not get anything.

    Additional suggestions would be great.

    Thank you
  • ed96ed96 Member Posts: 20
    my apologies.
    it is a 99 cherokee classic . automatic. 4.0 . with part time 4x4. yes it has trans drain plug
    thanks again
  • mullins87mullins87 Member Posts: 959
    Should be about 4 quarts, could be 3. Some fluid will remain in the filter and pan that would normally come out when you change the fluid and filter. Unless you're changing your fluid at frequent intervals, you shouldn't skip the filter.
  • dancermandancerman Member Posts: 220
    I had the dealer service my auto trans. at 50k miles. It was $200. included a flush and new filter. FYI ('99 Sport 4.0L, Auto, 4x4)
  • tobyicetobyice Member Posts: 2
    i have a 2001 jeep cherokee sport and it wont start. i have fuel prssure and no fire, i changed the coil pack that goes over the spark plugs and that didnt fix it, it gave me no problems before this except the check engine came on and it said the emission had a leak and then just a coupl.e days later i went to the store late and in the morning it wouldnt start. iot cranks but no fire please help!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    Check out the posts in the "No Start" Problems discussion while waiting for responses in here.

    Steve, Host
  • mullins87mullins87 Member Posts: 959
    Have you checked all the fuses? I know of two "maxi-fuses" under the hood that are marked "IGN". I think one is marked "IGN/RUN" and the other is marked "IGN/START". It's worth a shot. Anything in the ignition system could cause your problem. Are you sure the new pack is plugged in correctly? Have you checked the ignition pickup where the distributor normally is located? I admit I haven't pulled one of them apart to see how they work. What about the crank position sensor? Everyone tells me a Jeep won't run if it's bad. However, I have a Wrangler that ran just fine for nearly a year with a bad CPS, and it didn't even set a trouble code.

    I just noticed this was posted on Sunday. Any luck???
  • mmstonemmstone Member Posts: 1
    John,

    I have a 97 GC that is generating a fault code from the ABS computer as well. Did you replace it yourself or have it performed at the stealer? If you did it yourself, did you find a good source for the part?

    Thanks a million!

    Jeff
  • lutherphotolutherphoto Member Posts: 3
    Hi,

    For some reason the fan in my 98 cherokee only works on high. I pulled the dash apart thinking there was probably just a bad connection but everything seems fine. Im still digging in the garage for a tester to see if all the wires have power but I thought I would run it by you guys first.

    Any thoughts?

    Luther
  • mussmuss Member Posts: 2
    I have a 2001 Cherokee 4.0L auto 2WD. None of the gauges are working. When I start the vehicle the odometer reading displays the mileage, certain lights are lit (low fuel, seatbelt) then extinguish. After a few seconds the Check Engine light comes on and the odometer display reads "no bus". Neither the speedometer nor tach work either. The brake indicator light works when the parking brake is activated so other circuits appear to be working. I pulled the instrument cluster to check the condition of the connectors. They appear to be seated and look good. Any ideas?

    Thx for any ideas.
  • thorsnakethorsnake Member Posts: 14
    Seems like people, are not posting as much, or there is other threads on Jeep Cherokee's that I'm missing? I noticed a month or two ago we changed page #'s? Maybe I'm not in the the right area? Any help would be nice :shades:
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