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Jeep Cherokee

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Comments

  • mullins87mullins87 Member Posts: 959
    What?!?!?! He's nuts. I've got Autolite Platinums in mine now. Roughly 10k miles on them and not one engine light. As long as you get the proper plugs, the computer doesn't care what brand they are.
  • lordspotlordspot Member Posts: 1
    I've been running Bosch platinum 2's in my 95 jeep xj for a couple years now with no complaints or check engine lights.
  • bigwilliesjeepbigwilliesjeep Member Posts: 19
    Replacing the U-Joints are pretty easy i am a mechanic and i do them all the time. The only reason it might be hard for you to do is because you wont have the proper tools and will have to improvise. What you want to do is remove the drive shaft from the vehicle. Starting with the universals that bolt to the pinion remove both of the clips that hold the joints into the drive shaft. (example; the clips are located on the inside of the drive shaft ears.) Once you remove the clips proceed onto pressing the joints out. I have a press that i use with my half inch impact gun that pushes the caps right out. I do that for both left and right side and remove both caps. Now you will have to wiggle the joint out. Once you have it removed get your new joint without the caps and install it into the drive shaft. Press both caps in untill you are able to put the retaining clip back into the ears. Now perform the same thing for the rear of the drive shaft but remember to mark the yoke and the shaft down the one side due to it may be harmonically balanced to prevent vibration. Honestly it is really easy if you have ever seen it done once, but being your first time it might be a little hard especially since you dont have the press and will have to use a hammer. (NOTE: when pressing the joints out with a hammer make sure you DO NOT bend or dent the ears or the driveshaft.) if you are going to a dealer to get them done plan on paying atleast 1 hour for labor and price of parts. So going buy NJ prices about 100-150 dollars.
    You rear washer use the front washer fluid resevore. There are to pumps in it the front pump being lowest on the resevor and the rear pump being slightly higher. Fill the resevor, and hit the rear washer listen to hear if the pump comes on. If You dont hear anything then you have to start looking for why the pumps not coming on.(Ex. bad switch, fuses, pump, connection/wireing.) If you do hear the pump come on have someone hold it and get under the vehicle and you will most likely see the fluid squirting out.
  • nominivansnominivans Member Posts: 1
    Hi all - I have a 1997 Jeep Cherokee - 130K - love it dearly, but it's been hit and hit hard 3 times in the last 2 years. Repaired each time, but odds are I need to replace it sometime soon...I need something preferably in the Jeep/DC family that will hold dog crates and luggage at the same time, but I REALLY don't want a minivan - would make me feel like my mom! Essentially I need minimum dimensions of lxwxh, 42x42x30 to hold the 2 smallest crates. My current cherokee doesn't leave much leftover. Anyone got a Grand Cherokee (body style before the current one) that they know the inside dimensions of? I rented an 05 Grand - the crates wouldn't fit in through the back hatch door - not enough height clearance - bummer!
    Thanks all!
  • cadams1cadams1 Member Posts: 4
    i am a cop working a hit and run investigation from last night. i was able to recover a small amount or physical evidence, a portion of a headlight door that appears to fit with a 1995 jeep cherokee the lower outer portion of this. while being almost dead on, it is made of different plastic than the stock that i have seen and there is a groove on the bottom that is slightly wider. could this be an afertmarket part? any help would be greatly appreciated. i am fairly sure on the make but have to be sure thanks
  • tidestertidester Member Posts: 10,059
    Did it look like this:

    image

    You can find them at any Car Parts store.

    tidester, host
  • cadams1cadams1 Member Posts: 4
    thanks for the help, i imagine that many companies produced these parts and the mold could vary slightly, originally one of the guys that i talked to had suggested that the part or portion therof was a thicker plastic which led him to believe that it was from a placement on a vehicle that was below the bumper. however the area of impact on the deceased was upper thigh area / mid torso( 5'3
    " approx. height of the deceased) leading me to believe that it was more in the headlight area. the pic that you posted is what i believe to be consistent except flat black in color. i guess what i am trying to figure out is differences in plastic quality and thickness between stock and aftermarket parts.
  • mullins87mullins87 Member Posts: 959
    The base model Cherokees had black plastic bezels, but otherwise were identical to the one shown above. Here is a picture of my '01. I thought it might give you an idea of its placement on the vehicle.

    image
  • skidooskidoo Member Posts: 2
    :cry: My Jeep just got over 100K. Love it, NEVER had problems. When I drive it like 'stalls' as you drive. At first, it was like a 'skip', loss of power and then right back on. Now, it 'stalls'and I have to pull over. I just got a new battery and PepBoys checked all the electrics, and they said that was ok. It could happen twice in a day, or once in two weeks. I can't make it happpen, it just does. If I try to restart the vehicle, it's like it is not firing up. If I wait a bit, it turns over and runs. Then I cannot make it stall or re-occur. I also tried adding dry gas to the tank. No luck...any suggestions?"
  • mullins87mullins87 Member Posts: 959
    I really think it is electrical. I would check all the connections for all the sensors. Could be nothing more than a loose connector. My bet is on a crank position sensor, distributor pickup, or distributor pack itself. However, the next time it dies and won't restart, try this. Turn everything off, then turn the key to the run position. You should hear an electric motor running near the back of the Jeep for about two seconds. If you can't hear it running, then it's the fuel pump or fuel pump relay.
  • mullins87mullins87 Member Posts: 959
    Hmmmm. My picture worked when I previewed it and when first posted. Let me try it again.

    image
  • brianlilbskybrianlilbsky Member Posts: 1
    it's probably not the safest place to ask the ?'s about these types of rigs but i'm gonna anyways. lookin' for rigs that have 20's on them. pictures/different sites perhaps?
  • skidooskidoo Member Posts: 2
    Thanks for the tip..I'll check it out... ;)
  • evankevank Member Posts: 2
    My son's 97 Cherokee sport needs a new differential. The five star dealer wants $1200 to rebuild it. I found a 92 Cherokee in a junk yard with only 96K miles on it and the differential looks the same (I don't have ABS).
    Is there a site that lists the compatibility of differentials? I would like to get the 92 diffy and replace it in my 97, it would save my 19 year old money and give him some needed mechanical experience.
    A label on the axel reads 3.55 Trac Lock, 8/25 Jeep, 52098717AG
  • bigwilliesjeepbigwilliesjeep Member Posts: 19
    Just make sure that the new axles gears correspond with the old ones. IF you are running 3.55s now that is front and rear. If you get a new axle and the gears are diffrent your going to tear up the transfer case when using four wheel drive. Also make sure that the leaf springs mount the same place (example; Over the axle or under the axle, where the leafs meet the axle.) Other than that you should be ok.
    So remeber, Gearing/Mounting is all you need to make sure.

    You can get an open or a limited slip axle that wont matter.
  • mullins87mullins87 Member Posts: 959
    "bigwlliesjeep" gave you some good advice. One more thing though. You have the Chrysler 8.25 axle now. That is a very good axle. The '92 in the salvage yard could have a Dana 35 in it, which is a weaker axle. My '95 Wrangler, which gets offroaded alot and my wife's '04 Grand also has the Dana 35. That in and of itself shouldn't cause you to forget the whole thing, but I'm pretty sure the leaf spring widths are different. Trying to bolt the D35 up to the Chrysler 8.25 springs could cause some problems, probably with the pin placement on the axle perch. If the '92 does have the D35 and you can just bolt it in without having to regear it, then go ahead and get the springs and hangers as well. Also, take a close look at the shock mounts. They could be different.
  • evankevank Member Posts: 2
    Thank you to mullins76 and bigwiliesjeep for the information. I inspected the 92 and matched everything up. I purchased the entire diffy for $96 and installed it on New Years Day. I drove it to work today. I believe I saved over $1000 from having the dealer rebuild it.
    On the axle, where the brake lines connect, there is a fill line for what looks like diffy oil. Is that where the diffy oil is poured in? When I took out the rubber plug, it started coming out, so my oil level is OK.
    All the best.
  • 1996xj1996xj Member Posts: 1
    I had the same problem. After drivng more then 5min or so when and would come to a stop, when i would go to take off i would step on the gas and the jeep would barley move. if i pressed too hard it would stall and not start for 20-30min. Finally about a week later the check engine light came on and the code read coolant system high output. I just added some more antifreeze and revved the engine in park for 10min and that solved the problem. this would happen without the temp guage going in the red zone.
  • deltapetedeltapete Member Posts: 2
    I have that same problem too. It happens on and off and i finally hit the top of the dash above the gauges and they start working again. Now i know that doesnt solve the problem but i was wondering if you ever got a solution to that problem..
  • deltapetedeltapete Member Posts: 2
    Hey Dan Try checking the upper and lower bushings in the front and back tires. I greased mine just this week and found it to make a big difference in the way it felt and drove. If your not sure what your looking for just go to the nearest garage and ask them to have a look at your chassie for you. If not it may just be your shocks and struts that need to be replaced. Also have them our if you decide to do it grease the drive line too. This will take any slack that may be in it out of it. Hope that helps
  • bigwilliesjeepbigwilliesjeep Member Posts: 19
    deltapete, i have a question about what bushings you greased, because after reading both comments i realised that i have the same problem or sorta the same sound, and would like to try to grease them myself. To me it sounds like the shackles...... "upper and lower bushings in the front and back tires?????" Thanks
  • mullins87mullins87 Member Posts: 959
    That rubber line is the vent tube. The axle fluid is poured in through the rubber plug.

    I'm glad the axles matched up for you. It was either '97 or '98, I think, when the axles switched from the Dana 35 to the Chrysler 8.25. I found out the axles had changed when a friend of mine gave me two leaf springs off his '93 and they were about a half inch narrower than the ones on the Jeep.
  • lykwtuclykwtuc Member Posts: 3
    :confuse: I have a 1987 Jeep Cherokee, recently I replaced the front u-joint in the front right axle and did the work myself, but had a professional press it out for me. Well after I had it all back together, I tried putting it in four wheel drive and notice that it was grinding in the transfer case. I cant figure out what I might have done for this to happen. I did unplug the vacume line into the front axle to clean it off, but plugged it back it. I also checked the fluid so i know its not that. Can someone please tell me what might be making my baby run like ****!
  • mullins87mullins87 Member Posts: 959
    When does it grind? Are you moving or sitting still? Is it a manual or auto tranny? Are you switching into 4-Hi or 4-Lo?
  • lykwtuclykwtuc Member Posts: 3
    It grinds when I'm driving in 4H & 4L! I didnt have this problem before I changed the u-joint. Its a auto tranny.
  • lykwtuclykwtuc Member Posts: 3
    Ive previously made a post, which mullins87 replied to. I forgot one detail, that when driving in 4H or 4L the grinding or vibrations only occur during acceleration, at a steady spead there is no sound or vibr. So im still wondering could changing out one u-joint as opposed to changing out both be making this noise in my transfer case. Like i said I checked the trans fluid and pretty sure all the splines were lined up when i put the drive shaft back in. Any help would be appriciated. Thanks
  • bigwilliesjeepbigwilliesjeep Member Posts: 19
    When ever i changed my U-joints i always change both. Weahter it be on my own vehicle or a customers. Ive had situations in the past were i only changed one and the vehicle came back a couple weeks latter for a noise and that was it. So since then i have just replaced both, its a CYA thing. Now i cant guarantee that will fix it but its deff worth a try......
  • mullins87mullins87 Member Posts: 959
    You called it "grinding or vibrations" in that last post. Could be the other U-joint, or could be one on the driveshaft itself.
  • seansjeepseansjeep Member Posts: 14
    Happy New Years all Cherokee owners! I just got back from camping on Puzzle Lake Provincial Park in Ontario. A little on the chilly side, but worth it. The trail up was very beautiful and fun! I will have to go there again in the spring, for alot of the trail was frozen over, which hides all the fording. If you're passing through this neck of the woods, post a message and I'll be glad to give directions. Also, if anyone knows of any other good trails in Eastern Ontario, post it up please! Happy Trails!
  • jmaccaronejmaccarone Member Posts: 1
    I have a question about a 1995 Jeep Cherokee auto transmission. I have tried about all I know how to do. Currently, I have changed the fluid and used the suggested Mercon transmission fluid. I used slick 50 as well. I have tried a few other things. Added a cooler. What is it doing? I can drive it for about five hundred feet and then the transmission stops. I can wait for ten min, and then it runs again. I jacked up the rear and ran the tack up through the gears and it worked.
    Then it quits again after it goes through the gears. Has the slick 50 jelled it up? I changed the fluid which was dark. I am wondering though, why the sites recommend atf 3 and the book says Mercon. Are they the same? In any case, I need my jeep. What can you tell me?

    Joe
  • seansjeepseansjeep Member Posts: 14
    Always use what the owners manual says. It is not the same, DEXTRON III Mecron is what you're looking for if infact that is what the manual says.
    Did you change the filter too? Or just the fluid?
    If this were my problem, I would drain it again, have the filter changed and not add slick 50. Slick 50 is used to restore old transmission fluid back to it's original OEM specifications. As for the transmission cooler, I wouldn't add one myself, it typically cools the fluid, perhaps it's over cooling and won't let the fluid remain a steady temp. I hope you're back up and running soon, there's nothing worse than having your Jeep taken from you for what ever amount of time. I almost lost it when mine was in the shop for a weekend. Good luck!
  • jeepster7jeepster7 Member Posts: 1
    I've got a '99 Cherokee Clasic. The left side brake and tail lights don't come on, along with the front running lights on the left side. I've replaced all the bulbs with new ones. No luck. I'd rather not take it in, and i'm normally pretty handy with wiring, but i'm stumped. Any ideas????
  • seansjeepseansjeep Member Posts: 14
    I cannot be certain, but it may be that a fuse is burnt out. You say all lights on the left side are out, so maybe everything on the left uses the same fuse. I will do some looking in my repair manual if this isn't the case. Other than that check everywhere for loose connections. Good luck.
  • zgmzgm Member Posts: 1
    2000 sport with 85000 mi. This just started happening 2 days ago. It will start up just like normal, except the cdplayer,blinkers,wipers,heater,and pwr windows, don't work. When this happens the red airbag light and the red brake light on the dash stay on. The transmission also grinds if you try to put it into gear. The headlights and dash lights still work. If the jeep is turned off then back on, sometimes it takes two or three times, everything works just fine. what could possibly cause this? has anyone else had a similar problem?
  • mullins87mullins87 Member Posts: 959
    Stab in the dark here, but could it be a short in the ignition switch?
  • astemastem Member Posts: 6
    I have a '01 4WD Sport bought used, and am looking to buy new tires for it. I drive about 50 miles a day, almost all hwy and really don't do any off-road activities. I live in Chicago, so I like the fact that the 4WD helps a ton in snow, but I also want to keep a smooth ride on dry roads. Any help would be greatly appreciated. By the way, this site helps a bunch. Keep up with the forums!

    ASTEM
  • mullins87mullins87 Member Posts: 959
    I haven't had too much experience with all terrain tires, as I tend to buy more aggresive mud tires. I once had a set of BF Goodrich A/T's on a Wrangler and I now have Dayton Timberline A/T's on my '01 Cherokee. Both tires are very quiet on the road, they tackle snow with ease, don't seem to hydroplane very easily and handle dry roads quite well.
  • thorsnakethorsnake Member Posts: 14
    I scorred a great deal at Free Tire Service. They are BFG A/T knock offs. They are called Apachee Trac. They were about 1/2 the price of the BFG's, and they work great off, and on road. Plus they wear like steel. Very deep tread pattern to.
  • seansjeepseansjeep Member Posts: 14
    Hey there, I will further support the BFG All Terrain's for I have had them on my '98 Cherokee for half a year now. I have gone long distances on the highway (1000km in a day) and through 3 or more feet of snow. They are extreamly quiet, suprisingly actually on the highway and wear very well. Snow is a breeze of course and they are very strong tires, well built. Not to mention they look awesome! They are however, a little expensive, but worth it if you want a good sturdy tire that will last and compliment your Jeep's Style. You will be very happy with these tires if you decide to go with them. Another note they have awesome weight ratings too. Good luck!
  • mustang964mustang964 Member Posts: 1
    hello i have a 1998 cherokee limited 4x4 with a 4.0 engine. when you crank it up it makes a sound similar to like putting cards in the spokes of bike rims. this sound happens as soon as you start the vehicle and when you reach about 40 mph it will stop.was wondering if it could be a crack fly wheel or torque converter or maybe even a lose connecting rod.hope some can help i am lost for ideas and really dont know where to start looking.
  • seansjeepseansjeep Member Posts: 14
    Is there any lag in performance? Or has it always been like that, so you wouldn't know. It's not your torque converter, that only set's in once you maintain a constant speed. If it were the fly wheel, you would probably hear it at all speeds. It does sound like something to do with your connecting rods. Not nessasarily the rod itself, but may need adjusting. Perhaps, it's even your exhaust, check it out and see if there are holes or cracks anywhere, check the seals on the muffler aswel, the stock mufflers for the Jeep are not very strong, I've actually just installed a magnaflow today because the seal on mine was cracked and it sounded aweful. I also have a 1998 Jeep Cherokee Sport 4x4.

    I hope you can get that sorted out, good luck.

    Sean
  • benjaminpotterbenjaminpotter Member Posts: 1
    Had a friend install a new sun visor when i started the car it sparked and all interior lights went out. Now the radio, interior lights, and and all gauges on the dashboard(Speedometer, gas, temp, ect...) are out. Changed two fuses in the fuse box no difference. Was wondering if there was another fuse in the operation control box by the engine that could have shorted. Please help, any insight would be greatly appreciated.
  • mullins87mullins87 Member Posts: 959
    There could be a fuse in the power distribution box. However, the big question remains. Did you correct the problem? Sounds like a screw penetrated a wire and shorted the circuit.
  • donomicsdonomics Member Posts: 2
    I have a 2002 GCJ. The windows do not roll down (automatic windows) nor does the drivers door unluck with the remote. All oher doors unluck except the drivers. I have to use the key. I noticed when you get in at night, the interior lamps do not turn on. When you try to increase the intensity of the interior dash board lights, the interior lights come on. I am confused. I check fuses with no luck and the book does not clarify which fuse controls the windows. Any ideas. All window controls do not work. The door control works on all doors ecept the drivers door. When you shift into drive, the auto door locks do not engage.

    Help is appreciated...what am I looking for
  • jckeith21jckeith21 Member Posts: 2
    I have a 1996 cherokee and the plastic fitting that connects the upper radiator hose to the radiator is cracked. This of course causes my coolant to leak, and I have to fill it up at least once a week. Does anyone know how to fix this problem without having to replace the radiator?
  • cwolfecwolfe Member Posts: 1
    I need to replace the transfer case on my 6cyl., 1994 Jeep Cherokee Sport, 5spd MT. The name plate says it is a 231j.
    I'm looking around trying to find a used one to replace it with. Does the replacement need to come out of a 94 with manual transmission or are there other years that will fit? I've seen descriptions refer to 21 or 23 spline, does anyone know which the 231j is or which one I need?

    Thanks -
  • mullins87mullins87 Member Posts: 959
    You might try using a plastic tank repair putty. I found some in an auto parts store last week. It is near the JB Weld and other metal repair products. It might do the trick. Otherwise, a new radiator is in your future.
  • mullins87mullins87 Member Posts: 959
    I'm not familiar with a "231j". Is it a "New Process" t-case? It should be an "NP231" unit. You should also have the Aisin AX-15 tranny. This t-case unit is used with both the 4 and 6 cylinder models. The only difference is the number of input gear splines on the t-case. The 4 cylinders use a 21 spline gear whereas the 6 cylinder uses a 23 spline gear. I have read there were three different length input gears used throughout the years. However I have never been able to verify that info. If you happen to find one from a '94 Cherokee, that would be great. However, I'd bet you can use one from around '90 to '01. My '01 Cherokee Sport has the same t-case in it as my '95 Wrangler. Try going to Ebay and searching for "NP231". You should be able to find a good one for $300-$350.
  • mullins87mullins87 Member Posts: 959
    BTW:

    You should be able to use a t-case from a Cherokee with the auto tranny as the mounting will be the same. However, that could be where the different length input gears comes into play.
  • jckeith21jckeith21 Member Posts: 2
    Thanks, I found some and it appears that it might do the trick.
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