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Comments
While you are in there, I'd suggest replacing any other parts that are easy to get at while the engine is already apart/out. The radiator is a good candidate. They can be purchased for about $150 and wouldn't take 10 minutes to replace it while the engine is out.
But I do have this question: Why did it blow the head gasket in the first place? Did it overheat? Or did it blow without warning?
i just got quoted 275 for head gasket and 1400 for engine without labor. is this fair? is there anyone in you know with a used engine for sale? thanks!
When I turn my steering wheel side to side (engine off or engine on) I hear a clunk-clunk and can feel it with my foot if I place it on the (driver side) floorboard. What is it? It seems to drive fine, but everytime I turn I hear it and can feel it with my left food on the floorboard. It's WIERD.
THANKS FOR YOUR HELP.
The prices you were quoted aren't too bad. The $275 for the head gasket probably doesn't include any other problems encountered when the head is removed, such as a cracked head or block. Replacing the head gasket on that engine is a very simple procedure, however it's labor intensive.
The $1,400 quote for the engine is a replacement engine? Replacing an engine is more involved than just the head gasket replacement and it is still very labor intensive. However, if the rest of the Jeep is still in very good shape and your motor has other damage from overheating, you COULD be better off with the new engine.
I don't know your mechanical abilities or your workspace facilities. If it were me, and money doesn't grow on trees around here, I'd go the head gasket route first.
Good luck. And BTW: That 4.0 liter 6 cylinder you have in your Jeep is a great engine. I know of several with over 200k miles, and even a couple with over 350k miles on them and they are still going strong. I like that motor so much, I drive an '01 Cherokee Sport and my wife drives an '04 Grand Cherokee, both with that 6 cylinder engine. And as mentioned earlier, I'm puting one in the '95 Wrangler. That's how much faith I have in it.
link title
Good luck.
I think it's more annoying than a problem.
I have a 98 jeep cherokee sport with a inline 4.0. I bought this jeep approximately 6 months ago and everything was going fine. About three months ago I discovered coolant leaking from the backside of the engine, and assumed it was the freeze plug. I had a mechanic check it out, it was the freeze plug, so i had it replaced. 2 months later, the same thing happened, replaced the freeze plug again hoping this was the last time. Well I stepped outside this morning and what do ya know, a puddle of antifreeze underneath. Im assuming this isnt the freeze plug. and hoping not the head gasket. ANY IDEAS????????????????????????????
Cutting open the oil filter should be the first priority. Then, drop the oil pan and take a look.
regards
dave (united kingdom)
Thanks,
:confuse:
You should note any symptoms such as stalling, hestitaion, etc. and take it to a trusted garage. If it runs fine then it's probably not serious and can be fixed inexpensively. Maybe a basic tuneup or new gas cap will do it. Let us know what you find out.
All the gauges are reading normal and it drives the same. I only use this Jeep for towing a 17' boat 1 mile back and forth to the ramp. Should I just keep driving it and not worry about it? I was told you can turn the key and hold the odometer button in and it will flash a code if something is wrong. When I tried it it cycled through all kinds of tests but did not flash any codes. I don't know if that means anything or not?
Thanks
One on the things the engine computer does is monitors the fuel system and if it detects a leak (which could be a bad seal on the gas cap) it will turn on the check engine light. This probably isn't the problem.
Seeing that you only drive it short distances, the engine doesn't get hot enough and that's not good for it. It leaves alot of moisture in the cylinders, crankcase and exhaust. It will lead to corrosion that can prevent the engine from burning efficiently and/or the sensors (particularly the oxygen sensor) from working properly.
Your Jeep has an OBD-II engine management system. My repair manual doesn't say anything about turning a key and holding a button. That kind of feature was on older Pre-OBD-II vehicles. You need a scan tool to properly retrieve the codes and reset the computer.
Here's what I would do if I were you. I believe AUTOZONE stores will read your codes and reset the computer for free. Drive there and have them do it for you. Write down the codes (and post them here) and then drive the Jeep and see if the light comes back on. Since it runs good for you I doubt if it's anything serious that could ruin anything. If it does come on, then you will need to do the work or have someone do it. I'm guessing a basic tune-up may do it.... spark plugs, wires, distributor cap and rotor, air filter and a can of fuel system cleaner in a full tank of gas.
I have a '99 sport with 72,000 miles and never had the light come on (knock on wood). I just did my second tuneup. I think driving a car regularly and avoiding short trip use is good practice. Good luck and please post your results.
Thanks.
P1281 Engine Is Cold Too Long
P1698 No Bus Message From TCM
What could cause this?
http://www.supersprings.com/productguide.asp
I'm sure there are other brands. These do not affect ride height; only work when vehicle is loaded.
Poured out... sounds serious. Did you have any service to it recently. Could be a seal tear or look closely for a case crack.
Were you off road????
Your's could be just as simple. But you do need to drive it more often and/or greater distances.
I'm assuming you have checked for vacuum leaks????? If not, you need to verify that you don't have any, and fix them if you do.
Where is this hose located and I will take a look. Thanks for the info.
I was able to find my leak by slightly pressurizing the EVAP system, that includes the fuel tank!!!! There is a tag on the system that says to use no more than 1psi regulated air pressure! This is how I rigged up an airline for mine. First I used the blowgun attachment and connected a section of small diameter hose to it with duct tape. Then a put a cone adapter on the end of the hose, like one you might use to fill an air raft or pool toy. I lightly pushed the cone adapter into the top line at the purge valve. The regulator on my compressor was set so that it would shut off when I placed my finger over the line. I said to lightly push the adapter into the top line so that if too much pressure is built up, hopefully it would pop out before fuel started spraying everywhere!!! :surprise:
Then I started tracing the lines, listening for hissing and sniffing for gasoline. Maybe you'll get as lucky as I did and this will fix your problem.