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Jeep Cherokee

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  • mullins87mullins87 Member Posts: 959
    It does sound electrical in nature. It could be the computer. You should be able to find one at a local salvage yard or on ebay for not too much money. Check your other sensors as well. Any one of the MAP, TPS, or CPS could cause these symptoms as well. Also, with the engine running, wiggle the wiring harness. You could have a short in a connection or even a broken wire that separates under certain conditions.
  • mullins87mullins87 Member Posts: 959
    Ouch!!! First off, hopefully the head is cracked and not the block, but it could be. The head gasket itself is not too expensive. The auto tranny and 4wd shouldn't affect any repair cost as the engine is the same. I'm in the process of rebuilding a '96 Cherokee 6-cylinder for transplanting into my '95 Wrangler. My block, cam, valve train, head, pistons, etc... are all in good shape. So all I'm having to do is replace the rings, bearings and gaskets, of course. I've had to buy a few tools, but I will have a little less than $300 in this rebuild. Of course I don't have to pay for labor. Just Wild [non-permissible content removed] Guessing it, I'd say a complete rebuild at a professional garage should be in the $1,500 to $2,000 range. I do know that professionally rebuilt complete engines can be purchased for under $1,500 online.

    While you are in there, I'd suggest replacing any other parts that are easy to get at while the engine is already apart/out. The radiator is a good candidate. They can be purchased for about $150 and wouldn't take 10 minutes to replace it while the engine is out.

    But I do have this question: Why did it blow the head gasket in the first place? Did it overheat? Or did it blow without warning?
  • mullins87mullins87 Member Posts: 959
    Well, we need more details. Is it squeaking only as you turn the steering wheel? Does it squeak all the time the wheels are turned, then stop when the wheels are straightened? Does it do it only when the Jeep is moving? And does it make different sounds at different speeds? Does it only make that sound when going over a bump?
  • mkrakemkrake Member Posts: 6
    Thank for the post! Yes, the jeep was overheating and leaking coolant at 150K with no other problems. so we thought it was the water pump. then the head blew up on a steep mountian grade in Western North Carolina.

    i just got quoted 275 for head gasket and 1400 for engine without labor. is this fair? is there anyone in you know with a used engine for sale? thanks!
  • cojocojo Member Posts: 1
    THANKS. I was wondering too! Here's another question:

    When I turn my steering wheel side to side (engine off or engine on) I hear a clunk-clunk and can feel it with my foot if I place it on the (driver side) floorboard. What is it? It seems to drive fine, but everytime I turn I hear it and can feel it with my left food on the floorboard. It's WIERD.

    THANKS FOR YOUR HELP.
  • riverbugzriverbugz Member Posts: 5
    Well here I sut again eyes a fire from hours of searching for the maricle :) It goes in tommorrow and I will have the timing as well as the grounding to the 02 sensors checked also the main ground to the engine is pretty worn. I will replace. I am so glad for WARRANTIES. Ill keep tabs in a day or so WISH ME LUCK MAN !!! THANKS again for all the input... :confuse:
  • mullins87mullins87 Member Posts: 959
    Yeah, I've got one sitting in the garage right now just waiting to be put back together!! But of course, you're in NC and I'm in KY.

    The prices you were quoted aren't too bad. The $275 for the head gasket probably doesn't include any other problems encountered when the head is removed, such as a cracked head or block. Replacing the head gasket on that engine is a very simple procedure, however it's labor intensive.

    The $1,400 quote for the engine is a replacement engine? Replacing an engine is more involved than just the head gasket replacement and it is still very labor intensive. However, if the rest of the Jeep is still in very good shape and your motor has other damage from overheating, you COULD be better off with the new engine.

    I don't know your mechanical abilities or your workspace facilities. If it were me, and money doesn't grow on trees around here, I'd go the head gasket route first.

    Good luck. And BTW: That 4.0 liter 6 cylinder you have in your Jeep is a great engine. I know of several with over 200k miles, and even a couple with over 350k miles on them and they are still going strong. I like that motor so much, I drive an '01 Cherokee Sport and my wife drives an '04 Grand Cherokee, both with that 6 cylinder engine. And as mentioned earlier, I'm puting one in the '95 Wrangler. That's how much faith I have in it.
  • mkrakemkrake Member Posts: 6
    Do you know of anyone else with a 6cyl 4.0 engine for a jeep cherokee around? Lexington Ky is about 4 hours or so from my NC location. Knoxville is about 1hr. anyone that can help? i'm looking to do this right away... :)
  • mullins87mullins87 Member Posts: 959
    Sorry, I can't say as I do. If I get a chance, I'll see what I can dig up online. Do a search on ebay for "Jeep 4.0" and see what comes up.
  • mullins87mullins87 Member Posts: 959
    Here's a good one. Comes with a warranty and is in NC!!! I hope you see this one in time.

    link title
  • mkrakemkrake Member Posts: 6
    That's okay about the engine. Thanks for all your help! You make all of us non-car people out there feel like there is hope afterall. Thanks again.
  • mullins87mullins87 Member Posts: 959
    So, have you taken it to a garage yet? What was the final verdict?
  • dtrabdtrab Member Posts: 2
    I have a '00 cherokee that has been very faithful. Now I am beginning to smell a gas odor inside the jeep and the Check Engine Light has gone on. The odor isn't outside the jeep nor is the gas leaking on the ground. Could someone help please?
  • mullins87mullins87 Member Posts: 959
    Most likely an Evaporative Emissions System leak. But you won't know until you pull the codes. If you don't have a scanner, or a friend with one, take it to AutoZone and they will scan it for free. Otherwise, crawl under it and trace the entire fuel system from one end to the other looking for damp spots and sniffing for gas funes. However, since you mentioned you smell it inside the Jeep and not outside, I'm assuming only when the engine is running, you should start at the engine. Could be a very small leak only when the system is pressurized at one of the injectors, or the fuel rail itself. The Jeep's HVAC system would pull the fumes inside the Jeep.

    Good luck.
  • thehip1fanthehip1fan Member Posts: 6
    My 1990 jeep cherokee idles really high once it warms up, i have traced every vacuum line and have tried 3 different throttle positioning sensors and still have the problem.
  • mullins87mullins87 Member Posts: 959
    Is the throttle plate fully closed at idle? What about the Idle Air Control Valve? It could be stuck wide open. What about an intake manifold leak? Have you checked the vacuum at idle. You could have a bad MAP sensor, but I doubt it.
  • thehip1fanthehip1fan Member Posts: 6
    I was looking at things that could be wrong with the high idle on my 1990 jeep cherokee, could it possibly be the coolant temp sensor?
  • kowallkowall Member Posts: 1
    I myself have the same question. i currently have two jeeps, a wrangler ('98)and a grand cherokee ('01) that both have squeaky steering wheels. i notice it mostly when i am making tight turns like parallel parking. it also does it more when i am parking on a hill. it kinda seems like when there is more pressure on the the steering system that it squeaks. but to me, it sounds like the squeak is coming from where the steering wheel connects the column. could it be some kind of seal or a broken plastic part? does anybody have an answer??
  • donw9815donw9815 Member Posts: 1
    try replacing you idle air control valve. i had a similar problem and that fixed it. even if it dosent work for you it only cost 33.00 dollars so it is worth a shot. good luck.
  • mullins87mullins87 Member Posts: 959
    I don't see how a coolant temp. sensor could cause a high idle.
  • mullins87mullins87 Member Posts: 959
    My '01 Cherokee does it, but my '04 Grand Cherokee and the '95 Wrangler don't. However, my neighbor's '02 Grand Cherokee does it as well. Infact, she's had the bearing replaced in her steering column with no effect.

    I think it's more annoying than a problem.
  • thehip1fanthehip1fan Member Posts: 6
    Does anyone have a complete vacuum hose diagram?
  • clockeclocke Member Posts: 1
    Good Morning,
    I have a 98 jeep cherokee sport with a inline 4.0. I bought this jeep approximately 6 months ago and everything was going fine. About three months ago I discovered coolant leaking from the backside of the engine, and assumed it was the freeze plug. I had a mechanic check it out, it was the freeze plug, so i had it replaced. 2 months later, the same thing happened, replaced the freeze plug again hoping this was the last time. Well I stepped outside this morning and what do ya know, a puddle of antifreeze underneath. Im assuming this isnt the freeze plug. and hoping not the head gasket. ANY IDEAS????????????????????????????
  • thehip1fanthehip1fan Member Posts: 6
    im still having my idle problem after chaning the throttle positioning sensor and the idle air control valve, what are the chances it could be my coolant air temp sensor??
  • youngblood2youngblood2 Member Posts: 1
    My 2000 Cherokee Sport w/ 137,000 miles has recently started dropping oil pressure at idle. I took it to my local Goodyear and they first replaced the oil sending unit. That didn' t help so they tested the gauge (it was ok) and the pressure. At idle it was 8-10 psi. My mechanic there was a Jeep guy and he'd never seen it happen. He suspects it could need new bearings or maybe a new oil pump. It runs great and the engine is perfectly quiet. This only happens after I've driven for a few miles and then come to a stop. Other posts seem to suggest a blown head gasket causing water to leak into the oil. Think I'm looking at a new engine??? Thanks for any advice.
  • mullins87mullins87 Member Posts: 959
    I don't think you're looking at a new engine. If it's a head gasket with water leaking into the oil, then the oil will look like chocolate milk. My '01 with 87k miles runs around 50psi while driving, but drops to just under 20psi at idle. Your's does sound a little too low. It could need new main and/or rod bearings, or even an oil pump. However, it could also be some sludge that has come loose and has partially clogged up the oil pump intake. I can't remember if the pressure is measured before or after the oil filter. If it's after, then the filter could be partially clogged or it could be coming apart on the inside, plugging up oil passages.

    Cutting open the oil filter should be the first priority. Then, drop the oil pan and take a look.
  • dancermandancerman Member Posts: 220
    I think that's way too low for comfort. How high is the pressure when driving with engine hot? You said "recently".... about how many miles is that? The post above has good advice. Get it checked out and fixed before you do damage.
  • skunkbudniceskunkbudnice Member Posts: 1
    hi, I also have a Jeep cherokee on a 98 plate, I am having the same problem as you with the squeaky turning on tight turns. I have no idea what the problem is , but if you do have a soloution can you please let me know .
    regards

    dave (united kingdom) :cry:
  • dillinsdillins Member Posts: 2
    I have a 2000 Limited Cherokee. My oil pressure dropped suddenly and then would raise when I pressed the accelerator. I immediately took it to the dealer. I have a cracked block. They are on national backorder since there are a bunch of others with this problem. It may be that these are defective. My advice, don't drive the car but get it in to the dealer. Oil and antifreeze were running through my engine. Thank goodness, I stopped driving it immediately or else I would have had engine damage. As it is now, they don't know when the part will be in, cost is around $1700 (if the extended warranty doesn't cover it or if Jeep won't admit this should be under recall.
  • new2dieselnew2diesel Member Posts: 148
    I have a 19199 Cherokee Sport with the 6 cylinder engine and the check engine light just came on at 93,200 miles. Does anyone know what this means or could mean? i bought the car used and it doesn't have the owners manual.
    Thanks,
    :confuse:
  • pezzbpy_2000pezzbpy_2000 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 1990 Jeep Cherokee (I6) the RPM's vary wildy from 300-2,000. When the RPM's are low the vehicle begins to lose power, (power steering, brakes, and windows are affected). It does this sputtering occasionally and I can smell gas inside the vehicle when it happens. I have replaced the oxygen sensor, plugs, module, and rotary cap. Has anyone ran into this problem before? If so what worked to fix it?
  • dancermandancerman Member Posts: 220
    The check engine light (CEL) comes on when the computer that controls the engine senses a condition that is not what it is supposed to be. Many things can cause the light to comes on and the computer saves this information so it can be retrieved by a code reader to help find the problem. Some auto stores will retrieve the codes for free (hoping to sell you something to repair it I guess). If you aren't the mechanical type, I would not try to fix this myself. The owners manual doesn't address the CEL repairs. You need a shop/repair manual or code reader to find the meaning of the stored codes.

    You should note any symptoms such as stalling, hestitaion, etc. and take it to a trusted garage. If it runs fine then it's probably not serious and can be fixed inexpensively. Maybe a basic tuneup or new gas cap will do it. Let us know what you find out.
  • new2dieselnew2diesel Member Posts: 148
    Thanks Dancerman. So far, no problems running - everything seems ok. Do I need to go to Jeep or do most garages have the computer diagnostic system to read the chip? Could it really be as simple as a gas cap?
    All the gauges are reading normal and it drives the same. I only use this Jeep for towing a 17' boat 1 mile back and forth to the ramp. Should I just keep driving it and not worry about it? I was told you can turn the key and hold the odometer button in and it will flash a code if something is wrong. When I tried it it cycled through all kinds of tests but did not flash any codes. I don't know if that means anything or not?
    Thanks
  • dancermandancerman Member Posts: 220
    Jeep garage should be best equipped to do the work but any FULL service garage has engine diagnostic tools. The Jeep dealer will probably be more expensive for labor and parts.

    One on the things the engine computer does is monitors the fuel system and if it detects a leak (which could be a bad seal on the gas cap) it will turn on the check engine light. This probably isn't the problem.

    Seeing that you only drive it short distances, the engine doesn't get hot enough and that's not good for it. It leaves alot of moisture in the cylinders, crankcase and exhaust. It will lead to corrosion that can prevent the engine from burning efficiently and/or the sensors (particularly the oxygen sensor) from working properly.

    Your Jeep has an OBD-II engine management system. My repair manual doesn't say anything about turning a key and holding a button. That kind of feature was on older Pre-OBD-II vehicles. You need a scan tool to properly retrieve the codes and reset the computer.

    Here's what I would do if I were you. I believe AUTOZONE stores will read your codes and reset the computer for free. Drive there and have them do it for you. Write down the codes (and post them here) and then drive the Jeep and see if the light comes back on. Since it runs good for you I doubt if it's anything serious that could ruin anything. If it does come on, then you will need to do the work or have someone do it. I'm guessing a basic tune-up may do it.... spark plugs, wires, distributor cap and rotor, air filter and a can of fuel system cleaner in a full tank of gas.

    I have a '99 sport with 72,000 miles and never had the light come on (knock on wood). I just did my second tuneup. I think driving a car regularly and avoiding short trip use is good practice. Good luck and please post your results.
  • cowfarmerscowfarmers Member Posts: 1
    How is the best way to get the dash out to work on the radio?
  • bls1bls1 Member Posts: 4
    my 95 Cherokee transfer case is leaking.I not sure if the leak is from a seal, how can I tell where the leak is coming ... fluid just poored out when I parked it. ON a Automatice 4wd Cherokee do you add transmission fluid in transfer case?
  • new2dieselnew2diesel Member Posts: 148
    I have a 99 Cherokee Sport that I tow my boat with. The tongue weight is less than 500 lbs but it still causes the rear of the Sport to squat too low. It also doesn't help that the hitch was mounted too low on the Jeep (aftermarket). Are there any inexpensive suggestions to stiffen the rear up and properly support the tongue of the trailer. I don't want to drive around with my as* in the air when not towing either.
    Thanks. :D
  • ngaron1ngaron1 Member Posts: 3
    I failed an emissions test. The following fault codes were returned. 1)P1281 Engine Is Cold Too Long. 2)P1698 No Bus Message From TCM. I have been having problems with the transmission not downshifting automatically. Is this an engine problem, or a trans problem? What causes the engine to be cold for too long? I live in Phoenix, so cold days are not an issue.
  • ngaron1ngaron1 Member Posts: 3
    I am getting the following codes:

    P1281 Engine Is Cold Too Long
    P1698 No Bus Message From TCM

    What could cause this?
  • oldtimer1oldtimer1 Member Posts: 2
    Bought a '88 cherokee a year ago. Tires on it were 235/75/15s and still are. Last month, while going over a mountain, brakes went to floor. Fortunately not hurt, but shook up. Discovered oversized tires had worn through brake line on left side and right side almost ready to do same. Is there a special brake line I can buy to prevent this happening? I am refering to the rubber line that goes from the caliper to the steel line, a little more than a foot long.
  • dancermandancerman Member Posts: 220
    Off road suppliers may have a special hose but those tires aren't that big. Just make sure the new lines never touch anything that moves, especially when turning. The stock hoses should be OK if installed in proper orientation.
  • dancermandancerman Member Posts: 220
    First thing to check is engine coolant temperature sensor unhooked or bad. Check wires for break or disconnect. If OK, test sensor or replace.
  • dancermandancerman Member Posts: 220
    Check out a helper spring. Here's one place...

    http://www.supersprings.com/productguide.asp

    I'm sure there are other brands. These do not affect ride height; only work when vehicle is loaded.
  • dancermandancerman Member Posts: 220
    Yes. I believe you can use Dexron II, Dexron III or Mercon ATF. Select-trac - 3 pints. Command-trac 2.2 pints.

    Poured out... sounds serious. Did you have any service to it recently. Could be a seal tear or look closely for a case crack.

    Were you off road???? ;)
  • mullins87mullins87 Member Posts: 959
    I've had something similar going on with mine lately. My code scanner told me it was a small evaporative emissions system leak, it's the fuel vapor management system. Turned out to be a 4" section of rubber hose that had a crack in it. I had it fixed in 15 minutes and cost me under $5.

    Your's could be just as simple. But you do need to drive it more often and/or greater distances.
  • mullins87mullins87 Member Posts: 959
    My nephew's 2000 Grand Cherokee had those exact same codes pop up. Turned out to be a thermostat that was stuck wide open. $10 for a new t-stat and silicon gasket and 45 minutes later it was fixed.
  • mullins87mullins87 Member Posts: 959
    Is it injected or carburated??? If it's injected, I'd look at the Idle Air Control valve, it's mounted on the side of the throttle body. You can test it by cranking the engine, lightly cracking the throttle linkage open by hand revving the engine a little and holding it at a steady rpm. Then disconnect the IAC plug. Once it is disconnected, very slowly try to bring the engine back down to a near normal idle by hand. If it still cycles back and forth, then the IAC is probably working properly. However, if you can get it to idle by holding the throttle slightly open, then the IAC should be cleaned or replaced.

    I'm assuming you have checked for vacuum leaks????? If not, you need to verify that you don't have any, and fix them if you do.
  • ngaron1ngaron1 Member Posts: 3
    Thanks. I'll check the thermostat.
  • new2dieselnew2diesel Member Posts: 148
    Mullins,
    Where is this hose located and I will take a look. Thanks for the info.
  • mullins87mullins87 Member Posts: 959
    Locate the EVAP system purge valve, it's attached to the firewall between the valve cover and heater core, it'll have two hard plastic lines running to it. Trace the top line along the firewall towards the brake booster. It will turn and head down the firewall just to the left of the booster. About 1' down, it will join a steel line. Where the two join is the rubber hose section. However, there are little rubber hose sections all over the EVAP system.

    I was able to find my leak by slightly pressurizing the EVAP system, that includes the fuel tank!!!! There is a tag on the system that says to use no more than 1psi regulated air pressure! This is how I rigged up an airline for mine. First I used the blowgun attachment and connected a section of small diameter hose to it with duct tape. Then a put a cone adapter on the end of the hose, like one you might use to fill an air raft or pool toy. I lightly pushed the cone adapter into the top line at the purge valve. The regulator on my compressor was set so that it would shut off when I placed my finger over the line. I said to lightly push the adapter into the top line so that if too much pressure is built up, hopefully it would pop out before fuel started spraying everywhere!!! :surprise:

    Then I started tracing the lines, listening for hissing and sniffing for gasoline. Maybe you'll get as lucky as I did and this will fix your problem.
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