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Jeep Cherokee

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  • jeepmexjeepmex Member Posts: 1
    Hello everybody, I own a 1994 2.5l 4 Cyl. 4x2 Jeep Cherokee, it has nice 166000+ miles and i guess the time for many problems has come, last week i made 3 repairings, TPS(acceleration sensor), the air conditioner valve, and the IAC (if that's the name in jeep language or air admission??), now, the last time i plugged the scanner, a new problem, injector 1 is failing, i put in the tank a NOS injector cleaner and lots of prays (lol), but i guess it's time to spend money in my beloved jeep, in the last 3 months i'm abusing it, i'm driving 5 days a week 62 miles, guess it's telling me to calm down :cry: , 12 years are not for free... I serviced it 3 months ago, injector cleaning, filters, fluids, etc.
    Now the question, the order of the problems, IAC--TPS--Injector sounds normal to you? what's next? if i can be ahead of the next problem.. :sick:
  • laddealaddea Member Posts: 13
    I have '00 JGCL 4x4 4.7L

    I have been experiencing that same issues!
    So frustrating absolutely nothing make since about this issue. When it happens it just happens, it's not like every time I get to half a tank of gas, or hit 45miles per hour, or turn the air on... It doesn't seem to matter, I've been looking for a possible connection and haven't found anything.

    I have replaced all my relays, checked all my grounds, vacuum hoses, replaced the cam-shaft, and crank-shaft position sensors.
    I took it to the shop after all that and they think it's my PCM, seems to be the answer every time they don't know what else the problem is.
    One thing to add though, is when I check my codes a bunch of them pop up to include: 7 of my 8 injectors are popping a code for misfire, the camshaft sensor is popping a code, my fuel sending unit is popping a code also.
    Since they want nearly $1000.00 parts and labor for a PCM I'm inclined to try a couple of other things first.
    I know my fuel pump is old and my sending unit is shot so I'm going to replace those items along with the filter.
    I'll follow that with a pressure test to make sure every things good to go. Now this may not fix my big problem since most likely any of these components being faulty would cause a pretty regular problem and this big problem is very intermittent but unignorable. I'll replace my PCV valve retest my new camshaft and crankshaft sensors to make sure they're still functioning properly (if either of them aren't then I can start looking at what would cause them to go bad since they are new they would otherwise be fine)And finally top ot off with a spark plug and wire change. If that doesn't work I'll continue through the Emmsions and Engine control systems replacing applicable relays & sensors ie. throttle pos. sensor, rear wheel speed sensor, ect... :sick: After that I'll be out of ideas and low on money so hopefully someone will have some other suggestions or I'll look forward to a reply from rherndon saying he found the problem it was cheap and should fix your problem too!! :shades: If I could be so lucky... Thanks for reading folks and I look forward to hearing from you.
  • Karen_SKaren_S Member Posts: 5,092
    A reporter seeks longtime loyal Dodge-Chrysler-Jeep buyers who want the company to build a subcompact model or two. Please reply to jfallon@edmunds.com no later than Friday, October 20, 2006 with a few relevant comments and your daytime contact info.
  • warrenfwarrenf Member Posts: 1
    I'm in negotiations to buy a 96 Cherokee Country with less than 40 thousand miles. It's mint, stored indoors and underused. Turns out the (original) owners have never even engaged the 4WD! A seasonal family roadtrip vacation once a year for 10 years.

    Would I be a fool to just pop this 10 year old virgin into 4WD? Any recommended checks first?

    I haven't had a mechanic look it over yet. Other than the tires, this thing is CHERRY. I'm so hoping to pick it up.

    Thanks for any advice.
  • tidestertidester Member Posts: 10,059
    Hi, everyone. As you've probably noticed, we have been trying to refine the discussions into more narrowly focussed topics. Our objective is twofold. We want to make it easier for people seeking specific information about their vehicles to find it easily and without having to wade through hundreds or thousands of postings.

    To those ends, we will be shutting down the general make/model discussions and work exclusively with specific issues. This requires us to populate the make/model subsections with relevant, interesting and timely topics. Rather than having the hosts simply create boilerplate topics for each make/model, we feel that you, the owner, the make/model enthusiast and the prospective buyer can best judge what those topics should be.

    You can help by adding a discussion (it's easy!) or suggesting one here.

    To add a discussion, click on the last link in the "You are here" line at the top of this page. That will take you to the topic page for this make/model. Review the list of topics and click on the "Add discussion" link when you've decided what topic you'd like to add. Follow the directions and you're done! Feel free to add more than one. Just avoid duplicating existing topics and try not to make it TOO specific!

    Your help and continued participation in the Forums is greatly appreciated! Thanks.
  • charleytampacharleytampa Member Posts: 43
    Hey all, hope you can help: I changed the oil on my 4.0 liter on Sunday; noticed that the oil pressure gauge is now at zero. Put in mobil 1 syn.

    I've heard that I could have popped out the gauge when replacing the filter. Is this a common occurrence? I must hve driven at least 30 miles on the truck since the incident. If there were no pressure, would the engine have blown up by now, or is it probably the gauge? Any thoughts? Thanks so much

    Charley
  • mikesbalesmikesbales Member Posts: 1
    When I start the engine, it runs strong, but when I start revving it, smoke starts to come out of the PCV valve and oil starts spitting out of the dipstick. I replaced the PCV valve and dipstick with no luck. When I start driving oil starts to squirt out of the valve cover (i replaced the gasket). and after about 10 min. of driving the car starts to smoke bad enough that I can't drive it. Also, I've felt the coolant after driving and its ice cold (i'm thinking locked thermo.) but would that cause the other problems? also it doesnt have the horsepower taht it used to. Any ideas?
  • tidestertidester Member Posts: 10,059
    Please go to the group top level and create a discussion that fits your comments/questions or post in an existing discussion.

    Jeep Cherokee and Jeep Grand Cherokee
  • tidestertidester Member Posts: 10,059
    Enjoy!

    tidester, host
  • dancermandancerman Member Posts: 220
    Way too much confusion. :(
  • ryan99ryan99 Member Posts: 46
    Hey there, just back from the dealer with my 99 Cherokee limited, 90,000 relatively trouble free miles...had an AC condenser replaced because of an awful grinding noise for $865 plus a leaking steering damper for $235 and I got the usaul update of what is leaking and seaping...I take pretty decent care of the Jeep and keep up with all fluids. I have looked around and feel that the price I paid for the work done was OK for a dealer, but they quoted me at $1,100 for a cracked exhaust manifold....anyone had one done? I am wondering if it can be done much cheaper otherwise...doing it myself is not out of question as I have I rebuilt an engine from a 71 Buick and may be able to handle this job as it is old technology....thanks for any help
  • dancermandancerman Member Posts: 220
    The MSRP on the manifold is about $350. You can get it cheaper online. If you have rebuilt an engine, there is no reason not to do this job yourself.
  • ryan99ryan99 Member Posts: 46
    thanks Dancerman. I'm thinking that I am gonna do this one myself, but I have to rely on this vehicle everyday...the 71 Buick I don't have to...anything Jeep specific I should know about this job before I undertake it?
  • dancermandancerman Member Posts: 220
    Because you will be removing most of the left side of the engine, it will be helpful to label or somehow mark all the vacuum and electrical connections to insure you get it back together properly. I like the digital camera to record the disassembly.
  • ryan99ryan99 Member Posts: 46
    okay thanks for the advice...i will use the camera, thats a great idea. I'll let you know how it goes
  • jlapiskajlapiska Member Posts: 3
    On my 1995 jeep cherokee 4 cyl. 2.5 the oil pressure idiot light keeps glowing and pulsating with the rpms. Three different oil sending units produce same results the last coming from a jeep dealership. all body grounds have been checked., oil filter replaced and oil pressure has been checked and ok'd at 60 psi. can all these sending units be bad?
  • mistertmistert Member Posts: 2
    Check the wire, leading to the sending unit, to see if it has bare wire showing. If so, tape it up. If the current from the wire is jumping to anything metal near it (ie. manifold, dipstick tube, etc.), it will cause it to flicker. See if you can zip tie it to something away from these metal objects. This same situation happened on my '93 Cherokee, 4.0 and this took care of the problem.
  • kalbanesekalbanese Member Posts: 1
    My entire ignition is totally locked. The keys wont move at all. We did everything the manual said to do, and it is still locked. Any ideas!!!!
  • snapcracklepopsnapcracklepop Member Posts: 111
    That is so strange. Def. call the dealership if you havent already figured it out.
  • tidestertidester Member Posts: 10,059
    You may need to get your key cylinder replaced. Occasionally, they are defective.

    tidester, host
  • litladylitlady Member Posts: 2
    I just bought this jeep and i was going down the road in 4wd and it keeps sliping out i have to go back down to 2 wd and try it again why is this doing it? :sick:
  • fishn_carzfishn_carz Member Posts: 3
    Go to NAXJA and search around in the original equipment forum.

    http://www.naxja.org/

    You'll learn alot quite quickly.
  • litladylitlady Member Posts: 2
    TY im looking now :)
  • ckirklandckirkland Member Posts: 2
    I've got a little problem, my temp gauge reads 210 when vehicle is warm. it doesn't any hotter or colder. and the cooling fan doesn't come on. I can jump the relay and the fan comes on but not any other time. It can sit and idle of as long as I want and it still won't come on. I can feel the t-stat open and close and I've got pleanty of heat but still no cooling fans. I put a new temp sensor in and new water pump. anybod got a clue?
  • dancermandancerman Member Posts: 220
    I fail to see a problem. Perhaps your indicator is not accurate. As long as it isn't overheating I wouldn't be overly concerned.
  • wheatley1wheatley1 Member Posts: 15
    Hey everyone, well my '92 Cherokee is about fixed, I think/hope. I did find one thing that I tought I would pass on to everyone. If you ever hear a wierd clanking noise that disappears when you are in the throttle, but always comes back at idle. Try checking your flywheel, mine was about to fall off, and the clanking was the sound it was making when it hit the starter housing. I searched for hours trying to pin point the location with no such luck. Well to save some heartaches I hope this can help someone someday. Take care.
  • ckirklandckirkland Member Posts: 2
    Thanks you've been absolutely no help what so ever. If you don't see a problem then why does the vehicle come equipped with a cooling fan? Got to be a reason!
  • ryan99ryan99 Member Posts: 46
    ouch...easy on dancerman, he helped me. Perhaps if we could decode your message through all the typos we could get somewhere...if your guage never reads any different and your fan comes on when you jump the relay maybe there is a faulty indicator...
  • tidestertidester Member Posts: 10,059
    it doesn't any hotter or colder.

    It sounds like your cooling system is working effectively and efficiently. A cooling fan will typically only engage if the engine is too hot. Did your sport exhibit the same behavior during the summer when ambient temperatures were high?

    tidester, host
  • fishn_carzfishn_carz Member Posts: 3
    XJs run at 195 by design. The electric fan only comes on when the AC is running and your temp is 217 or so, maybe a bit more, don't recall precisely. You might check to see if your mechanical fan clutch is working properly, 4.0 L engines are kinda notorius for failing fan clutch overheating problems.
  • 01jeep01jeep Member Posts: 2
    For some time my sport is becoming harder to start. I took it to a dealer and he replaced the fuel pump. It worked fine for a couple of days then became hard to start again. The strange thing is that if the jeep is parked on an uphill grade with the nose higher it will start on the first crank. If the jeep is level or in a nose down attitude it cranks and cranks before starting. HELP :cry:
  • mullins87mullins87 Member Posts: 959
    That's interesting. If the symptoms were reversed, hard to start when facing uphill, I'd say it was the fuel pump as well. Since it's the other way around, I don't know. :confuse: :blush:

    How good of a mechanic are you? I would start by making absolutely sure the engine is getting plenty of air and the ignition system is functioning properly. I'm wondering if the engine is receiving too much fuel at startup when parked in the nose down or level position. Could the fuel pressure regulator be faulty? How about leaking/really dirty fuel injectors?

    I hate to be so vague, but I'm really a "hands on" type of mechanic. I have to see, hear and smell what the engine is doing most of the time.
  • mullins87mullins87 Member Posts: 959
    I didn't see a problem either, that's why I didn't respond. Every Jeep I've got, and there are three of them sitting in my garage, ran at 210 degrees from the factory. I put 185 degree t-stats in my Wrangler and Cherokee, but the Grand Cherokee I left alone. The electric fan on my Cherokee doesn't always come on when I think it should, but it never overheats either.

    Ease up on dancerman, he's an asset to this forum. :shades:
  • dancermandancerman Member Posts: 220
    Do you observe the same behavior, i.e. starts best when nose is up, with a full fuel tank? empty tank? I'm wondering if there's a problem that causes a vacuum in the tank preventing the pump from pulling fuel. Perhaps the return line is collapsing or plugged. I've noticed that my '99 cranks more than normal at times but haven't tried to analyze it. Your uphill/downhill difference is interesting. Let us know if you solve it.
  • tuggajbtuggajb Member Posts: 646
    Had problum with my 2000 gc on right side of fire wall behind ac accululater is a computer plug in
    i had to disconect mine and clean conectons put dilet grease on it and no more troubles

    make sure you disconect the bat befor cleaning or disconecting cable to computer

    tonyb
  • mikkinmikkin Member Posts: 4
    Hi...

    I bought this jeep a week ago. The other day I took this jeep on I-90 and i realized that the car vibrates like crazy on high speeds (55 MPH onwards). Am not sure with the solution.. i read a few post but it didnt help...I even took it to the jeep dealer who changed the U joint and polished the front axle, and he told me that the tires have developed a chop since the previous owner did not rotate the tires. But I dont think this is the only prob.. The noise has gone down but not completely.... The jeep has not been lifted.. please help me with this issue...

    Mikkin
  • dancermandancerman Member Posts: 220
    Lots of things can cause vibration. Tire condition and balance is probably the first thing to check. Worn shocks and worn steering components can also cause vibration. I think I would be more insisting that the dealer fix the problem. He has already admitted that he sold you a vehicle with problem tires. Tell him to replace them. The only other thing you may consider is to take it to another garage and pay them to diagnose the vibration. PS I have never heard of axle polishing. :confuse:
  • lubyluby Member Posts: 1
    my jeep began to stall or something, if feels like it back fires, it happens when i accelerate fast but not too fast
    i changed the fuel filter and now im thinking maybe i should add fuel injector cleaner and see if it still have same problems
    but some one told me it might be timing belt problems, its never been changed and the car has almost 140k miles on it
    does any one know anything about timing belts that could help me find out the problem. it seems like its alot of work changing it too on the Jeep :confuse:
  • dancermandancerman Member Posts: 220
    Your description is a bit vague, but I can tell you that your '96 does not have a timing belt. It has a chain and sprockets and I-6 engines are not known for having timing set failure. If you are certain of having backfiring, then it may be as simple as a distributor cap crack or shorted ignition wires. Also a burnt intake valve can produce a backfire (usually a popping sound). I'd put in fresh plugs, wires, cap and rotor before assuming anything more serious.
  • mrno3283mrno3283 Member Posts: 4
    hi all,

    i recently purchased a used right hand drive cherokee.

    it has a few problems but that's ok.
    i do have one that i can't figure out....i don't have heat...i've changed the thermostat, checked the fuses, heater core is not leaking (i assume that means its working), dealer put in a new water pump and radiator, blower is working great but no heat....anything else i should be checking??

    thanks for any advice
  • pahefner01pahefner01 Member Posts: 202
    My 99 Cherokee limited required a replacement of the evaporator coil at only about 45K miles. This is not an uncommon issue. Mine was fixed under warranty.
  • dcp2dcp2 Member Posts: 1
    I wanted to switch out my black exterior door handles out with colored handles. How would I go about taking out the old ones and installing the new ones? Do I remove the interior door panel? How would I go about doing this?
  • red75red75 Member Posts: 3
    I have a 2001 Jeep Cherokee Classic. I had the same problem about a year ago at 100,000 miles. It was a bad heater core. It never leaked, so I too thought it was okay. But it turns out it was clogged pretty bad. The mechanic tried blowing it out, but never could get it cleaned out good enough to produce heat so I had it replaced. It cost about $300, but I've had great heat every since.
  • red75red75 Member Posts: 3
    I posted this message about 1 1/2 years ago and we never came to a conclusion. However, I'm still driving the Cherokee with low oil pressure and it still drives fine. Thought I would try posting again and see if there's any new advice out there. It's a 2001 Cherokee Classic with 125,000 miles. The low oil pressure started about 30,000 miles ago. When the engine is hot, pressure drops to about 1 or 2 and the check gauges light comes on. I had the oil pan taken off, cleaned the screen, checked the sending unit, checked the oil pump, all okay. Checked with a mechanical gauge, and it is reading correct. I had an oil purge done twice to try to clean everything out. Had the bearings checked, they looked fine. It did have a very slight head gasket leak, so they pulled the head and replaced it. While they were in the there, they did notice some sludge build-up, we tried to clean everything out as good as possible. However the only conclusion we've ever come to is that there's still some sludge buildup causing the low pressure. The engine runs fine, no knocking or tapping at all. I'm starting to get a little nervous continuing to drive the Jeep with the low pressure, however I've done put about as much money into as I can justify. I would love to hear any suggestions. Thanks
  • armyguy01armyguy01 Member Posts: 5
    If the tires are bad get new ones and have them balanced. Bad tires can make a truck shake bad enough to loosen the fillings in your teeth ;)
  • armyguy01armyguy01 Member Posts: 5
    Other possibility could be your main crankshaft bearings are going bad (tolerances are opening up) and need to be replaced. This would give you low oil pressure. If you or a friend is mechanically inclined, drop the oil pan and pull one of the bearing caps to check the condition...chances are they are toast.
  • jimbo01jimbo01 Member Posts: 3
    Hello,

    Its a funny thing, I just recently bought a used 84K miles, 2001 Jeep Cherokee Classic, 6cyl, 4WD and its doing the same thing yours is doing, ok.

    Do you have any replies or clues to what is wrong with your 2001 Jeep Cherokee at this time? I would really like to know, as well.

    Sincerely,

    jimbo
  • mikkinmikkin Member Posts: 4
    Hi...
    thanks dancerman and armyguy01 for ur suggestions... i got the tires balanced too... the vibration level did reduce a bit... then i finally went to the dealer who sold me the car and he removed the rear drive shaft and now the car drives just fine... actually in my prev post i had written abt polishing the front axle...it is actually the rear axle... the dealer who is also a very good mechanic told me that the bearing is gone and thats the reason why the rear drive shaft vibrates.. he is doing it for free... rite now though am driving it without the drive shaft..only i cant use my 4WD... lets hope tht things turn out to be good... i'll keep u guys updated.....

    Thanks...
    Mikkin
  • dancermandancerman Member Posts: 220
    Glad you are getting the dealer to fix this. I must admit though... driving it with no rear driveshaft... never, ever heard that before. :surprise:
  • mikkinmikkin Member Posts: 4
    yeah ....myself was surprised to hear that first time....but then he showed it to me... could u tell me what should the ideal oil gauge read...i think it is from 0 to 80... mine is always on 40 and for some reason it keep on fluctuating....like from 40 to 60 and then sometimes 30... is it normal....????
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