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Jeep Cherokee

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  • schrumrn1schrumrn1 Member Posts: 1
    have had my keyless entry checked by service dept at local dealership, was told i need to replace my remote keyless entry module located in passenger door of car. this is almost $400.00 and cant afford, was going to go to salvage yard and get used one. does anyone know if this can be installed fairly easily and how do i then reprogram my current remotes. thanks.
  • dancermandancerman Member Posts: 220
    Around 40 psi is normal oil pressure with some fluctuation with engine RPM. Mine is usually on the high side of 40 psi.
  • alohabraalohabra Member Posts: 2
    Two things about Cherokees:
    1. the sender goes bad or leaks oil into the connector contacts...clean first
    2. The instrument pack connector goes bad or fries...check repair or replace (cut on off at the junk yard and splice it).
  • alohabraalohabra Member Posts: 2
    XJs run at 210, but can get hotter when off-roading at slow speed. If you run it colder, you will loose gas mileage because the O2 sensors will richen the mixture up.

    The electric fan comes on when:
    1. the AC is switched on
    2. when the temp sensor in the radiator says it is overheating
  • jefany4jefany4 Member Posts: 8
    i have a 89 cherokee inline 6/4.0 engine.........its very hard starting,seems to have no power on accel(by the way its a 5speed manual)! i have to ride the clutch and gas to get anywhere...........very depressing! ive run lucas fuel injector in the gas to clean the injectors and still it seems to wanna stall and has no power.
    any advice would help alot!..........is their a way to bypass the egr valve? or atleast check to see if it is the cause of my nightmare? its just a work car but im used to driving it! im not a mechanic so please keep it simple.....thanks
  • azcheazheadazcheazhead Member Posts: 1
    I recently had my tranny replaced at a shop and when I got it back the temp gauge no longer registered any type of temp reading. The tranny shop insisted it was not anything related to the work they did. I just found a sensor of some kind hanging loose when I did my oil change. The sensor end is a sealed type (non-liquid)sensor with two mounting holes that appear to have recently been mounted somewhere (clean of oil & dirt where two nuts would have been). The opposite end is an electrical plug with four pins. I do not know if this is related to the inoperative temp gauge or not. Anybody have a clue on either of these two issues? FYI, the inoperative temp gauge is not fuse related (as suggested by the tranny shop).
  • oopie_kramoopie_kram Member Posts: 1
    I have a '93 Grand Cherokee Laredo with the 4L 6-cylinder engine. I recently had to replace my passenger side headlight bulb. I disconnected the battery, replaced the bulb, re connected the battery and just like that the truck wouldn't start. It cranks just fine, turns over and revs for a moment before dying out. I had a mechanic look at it and he was clueless as to what the problem was. He ruled out all the usual stuff and told me that it was getting all the necessary ingredients but I'd have to take it do a Dealer(I refused to do this blindly for a vehicle I paid $2500 for.) This mechanic is very reputable so I'm guessing he isn't really familliar with older Jeeps and that's why he didn't know about the diagnostic check you can do by turning the key three times(thanks to Paul at O'Reilly's for the 411!!) I performed the diagnostic check and got three codes...
    11- No distributor reference signal detected during engine cranking. Check the circuit between the distributor and the PCM.
    12- Problem with the battery connection. Direct battery input to PCM disconnected within the last 50 ignition key cycles.
    14- Manifold absolute pressure sensor voltage too high or too low.
    then of course the 55 end of message code.
    The engine has 170,000 miles on it but the previous owner,an Air Force pilot I went to church with took very good care of it and I have kept up with the standard preventive maintenance. I had absolutely no problem with this vehicle before I changed that headlight bulb.
    I have a Hayne's manual now(that's how I know what the codes are0 but once you get past basic mechanical stuff(this one's a phillips, this one's a flat-head) it might as well be written in Japanese. Any help,advice, insight etc. would be greatly appreciated. Thanks,
    Mark
  • slayrmanslayrman Member Posts: 2
    I had the coil tested also had the ignition module tested the starter is 5 months old the starter relay is new the battery is new it was cranking but just wouldn't start can anyone help me out with this i don't want to get rid of my jeep just yet
  • jlamonsnwajlamonsnwa Member Posts: 3
    Hi. As an owner of a 1993 Sport I know exactly what you are talking about. Of course you should check what you can and even buy a radiator flush to resolve the obvious. There is so much that goes into the heat issue (fan clutch, radiator efficiency, so)....
    I have seen the best luck is to improve the original. There is a High Output radiator (tow package) from Jeep, but some what cheaper are multiple core radiators to replace the underated original (online around $220). If you have AC and the small electric fan, replacing it with a after market fan provides superior performance. There is often a problem with the fan clutch, some after market fans (flexible fans with no clutch) work much better than the original. I have heard a few accounts of a replacement electric fan which is much more efficient for cooling and provides better fuel economy AND power.
  • jlamonsnwajlamonsnwa Member Posts: 3
    I wouldn't reply as someone already stated the truth. The electric fan is an assist fan for the AC. It does not run unless the AC is on and the sensor temperature is exceeded.

    As other noted, Jeep Cherokees run hot from the day you drive one home (but you may not had to test it by loading the engine in a hot environment), and the cooling often degrades over time. Lots of posts will give you better performance parts from Jeep or other aftermarket companies.
  • new2dieselnew2diesel Member Posts: 148
    Does anyone know the tow rating for a 99 cherokee Sport. It does not have a tow package. Can I safely pull a boat which weighs 2500 lbs (boat and trailer). It does not have trailer brakes. Maximum tow distance will be 1 hour. Thanks
  • 01jeep01jeep Member Posts: 2
    In recent months has become harder and harder to start, cranks good, runs great after it starts. had fuel pump changed and it started fine for 2 days then same old problem, replaced that pump, no help. replaced crank position sensor, fuel cap, plugs. have spent a lot of money and i have the same problem i started with..HELP
  • 00jeep00jeep Member Posts: 2
    i bought 2 keyless remotes from an internet web sight for my 2000 jeep cherokee. got both for around 30 bucks. it cost me 25.00 per remote to have the local dealer program them. heck of a lot less than $400 try google amd search for jeep keyless remotes .
  • sixstar08sixstar08 Member Posts: 2
    I've got a 2001 Jeep Cherokee 4x4 Sport with and Auto Trans. It's just when over 70K miles. I've just recently noticed that when driving at 50 or better it seems to jump between gears. When going 50mph it will jump from about 1500rpm to about 2100rpm. There is no change in modulation to the gas pedal and this is done on a flat road so there is no change in hill accent/decent. I first noticed the problem when the car was going between 60-70mph. The RPM's will jump up for a little bit then jump back down. It will continue to do this for a while. I'm not sure how long this would go on as my typical drives are not great in distance. It has been getting significantly colder and I am wondering if that could be part of the problem, but I fear that this isn't it. My inclination is that it might be: a sensor, something with the transmission, or throttle body (just putting it out there). Has anyone had a similar problem or knowledge of potential solutions to this problem?
  • canuck785canuck785 Member Posts: 160
    hello, just bought my 3rd jeep, (94 wrangler, 87 cherokee and now a 2001 cherokee limited )

    we got really "duped" by the seller...forgot to mention about the rebuilt/salvage title...it was stolen and no damage was done to it but still got that title...anyway long story but the good thing is that the bank is ok with it. phewwww!

    now, 3 days later...
    i tried to put it in 4H and it kicked "itself out" when i was driving. i did think that i probably did not put it right in gear and did it again. one more time, it just went back to 2wd by itself.
    a little later i tried it again and not only did it go back to 2wd (or else?) again but it made a HORRIBLE noise and scare the living sh** outta me!

    I stopped at the jeep dealer on my way to work, the guy was not very nice, said i was not engaging the lever into the right place. well he did it and got "the noise"!! he said, well your transfer case is having problems, gotta change it"
    he said it was not a "big" repair....only 1500$ plus time!!
    :surprise:

    so not only did we pay wayyyyyy too much for the truck but now it has a problem...
    can anyone give me some advice pleaseeeeee????? :)
    what could be the problem???

    thank you :shades:
  • torrymendozatorrymendoza Member Posts: 7
    My '93 Cherokee has had this intermittent power loss problem for a while, but it is extremely indiscriminate. I would be driving and all of a sudden the engine just stops, I have all electrical power but no engine. I know about the CPS unit, but a friend (mechanic) has suggested it could be a relay or the ignition module. Has anyone had this problem and if so, what was the resolution to it? Thanks. It is so indiscriminate that the only possible commonality to the engine loss is moisture if that.
  • tuggajbtuggajb Member Posts: 646
    first off used two typs transfer for this jeep
    1 you have 2 w drive
    2 full time 4x4
    3 4x4 part time
    4 4x4 low
    use only 4x4 part time and 4x4 low on slipury roars

    can use 4x4 fulltime all the time

    check oil change look for iron shavings
    could have linkage out of adjusment
    do that then see what happens
  • canuck785canuck785 Member Posts: 160
    thanks for your reply!

    right now I have the one with the command trac (part time) but my other cherokee had the select trac (full time) so i knew how to use it and i also used the awd really often with my wrangler when i was back in canada and never did have that kind of problem :confuse:
    the problem with this one occured when i was on a snowy road so i know it is not because of dry pavement. :sick:

    the oil has been change last week by previous owner and my husband checked it this w/e and it was nice and clear.

    I will relay your infos to my husband ;)

    thanks again! :)
  • kovacskovacs Member Posts: 1
    I have a Jeep Cherokee 2000 modle 2.5tdi. It only has 101000km (not sure what that is in milage) so the engine in theory is still in good running order and probably could run for another 100 000 - 200 000 before the engine needs to be overhauled. The problem that i am experiancing is that the car is smoking. I know desiel engines do smoke, but this seems to be smoking more than others seem.i don't seem to be suffering a loss of power, but i also have nothing to compare it to as this is the first jeep that i have owned. I have heard comment previously regarding Jeep diesels smoking. Is this normal for the Jeep to smoke so much. If it is not is there anyone who can give me suggestions on how to solve this problem.
  • new2dieselnew2diesel Member Posts: 148
    Try running cetane booster in each tankful - it usually quiets the diesel down and promotoes cleaner burning (less smoke). You can buy it Walmart or most any autostore. Powerserve is one brand that I have used. :)
  • jdog420jdog420 Member Posts: 4
    Have you tried to spray brake clean or starting fluid in the carburetor? If that starts check the vacuum lines up by the ps pump.
  • jdog420jdog420 Member Posts: 4
    I am wanting to know if I should use a rebuilt 2.8 or if I can upgrade with out spending alot of money?
  • mrno3283mrno3283 Member Posts: 4
    they say there's no such thing as a dumb question but, boy, do i feel dumb askin this one.

    i got a 2000 cherokee, right hand drive, (yeah, i deliver mail) my flashers stopped working...i have a new fuse but i can't find where it is to replace it....anybody out there know where it is?..i've looked under the hood, under the dash...it's probably right in front of me..but i dont see it...lol....
    thanx
  • dancermandancerman Member Posts: 220
    My '99 has a fuse access panel in the right front kick panel (next to your right foot). I don't know if this will be the same for your mail Jeep.
  • mrno3283mrno3283 Member Posts: 4
    thanx dancerman, i found that box...there were 3 fuses...none of them matched the serial number i have on the part....pulled them all out and changed to the new part...had no effect.....either that's not the right ones or i have another problem....lol (i hope not...just bought this thing in 11/06....it's already cost me nearly 3 grand for repairs...although they never stated anything was wrong with it)
  • dancermandancerman Member Posts: 220
    It may be the flasher or the signal switch.
  • cloecloe Member Posts: 1
    My 1997 Jeep cherokee started making a clunking type thumping noise underneath. I had new brakes installed and they were rechecked for problems to make sure nothing was loose or malfunctioning and they checked out okay. The clunking noise isn't all the time. It comes and goes and stops when you apply the brakes. It makes the noise sometimes while just driving along and also will start after turning sometimes. It will make the noise for a few minutes to a few miles then go away then comes back. Any input on what the problem may be would be appreciated. Thanks
  • garry7garry7 Member Posts: 6
    My 1997 Jeep Cherokee Limited auto,pumps out transmission fluid when I am climbing hills on the road (some-one said "it could be a seal in the torque converter needs replacing)
    Has anyone had this problem, or know if this is correct ? ?
    Any help appreciated, thanks.
    Garry7.
  • garry7garry7 Member Posts: 6
    Your clunking noise sounds like problems with wheel bearings in front hub. I wonder if this noise only happens when you're in full-time 4 wheel drive ? ? if so try driving just in 2 wheel-drive, and see what happens, but either way, get the front wheel bearings checked,
    cheers,
    Garry7
  • jonnyvjonnyv Member Posts: 4
    Hi All,

    Would greatly appreciate any help. I have 96 Cherokee Sport with 215/75R15 wheels and tires. Just wondering what is the biggest possible tire size I can put on it with the current rim size. I'm thinking of getting bigger wheels, perhaps 16" or 17" and maybe 2" or 3" left kit in the near future. I've installed the K&N Fuel Injection Performance Kits (FIPK) last summer and not sure if getting a lift kit would in any way affect the FIPK. Again, thanks a million for any input. I'm trying to figure out what options are possible 'cause I wanted to have some fun 4X4 and the factory tires aren't cutting it. :confuse:

    Thanks,
    JonnyV
  • x96cherokeexx96cherokeex Member Posts: 1
    I to have this exact problem went to mammoth this weekend and on the last grade, witch is a long climb, my transmission started leaking, i could tell by the smoke trail i noticed in my rear view mirror, i stopped by the side of the road and saw a puddle of transmission fluid on the ground and dripping from my transmission couldnt really tell were it was leaking from but it was either from trans cooler lines or where the engine mounts to the transmission, i suspect it either the torq converter leaking or the transmission where it connects to the converter, but i checked the trans fuiled level, it was full. i made it to mammoth i kept the engine rpm under 2500 the rest of the way up and also all the way home witch was a 300 mile trip, transmission does not slip or make any noises, works fine, does need a fuiled change though kinda dirty.
  • dancermandancerman Member Posts: 220
    Off road guys usually talk about tire diameter when discussing larger tire sizes, for example 33's or 37's. I know without a lift you are really limited in tire size as you will hit the fenders only a few sizes over stock. Your FIPK won't care what tires you have but when you go with a bigger tire you will need to recalibrate your computer or your shift points (auto transmission) and speedometer will be out of whack. But more importantly, larger tires will cause you to loose low end torque because you are in effect changing the gear ratio. It also puts more stress on the entire driveline. You may want to pose your question on a web site that it geared more to off-road. Here's one http://jeephorizons.com/ ; there are many others. Good luck.
  • pahefner01pahefner01 Member Posts: 202
    Can you tell me if the change in thermostat kept the electric cooling fan from constantly cycling on and off? In the summer with the ac on this fan cycles to the point of annoyance. I would almost rather it stayed on all the time instead of cycling on and off.
  • garry7garry7 Member Posts: 6
    I think you will find that it is your air conditioner that is cycling on and off and not your cooling fan. and it is normal for your aircon. to do this.
    cheers
  • pahefner01pahefner01 Member Posts: 202
    To remove the radio, first grasp the fake wood "or platic" surround. It's easy to do. Grab it at the very bottom on both sides and pull, you won't hurt it and it will pop loose and then you can simply lift if up and remove it. Once that's accomplished you have complete access to the radio for removal. I had to learn this to replace my fog light switch. The dealer wanted over $200 dollars to do this. I found out from another Jeep owner about how to get to it. Bought two switches on Ebay for 20 bucks each. It took me less than ten minutes to change the switch.
  • pahefner01pahefner01 Member Posts: 202
    I'm not sure it is the ac cycling on and off. Watch your temperature gauge. The electric fan does cycle on and off a lot in warm weather and especially if you are using your ac.
    I would still check the relays first. If you fan won't stop running, pull the relay and see if that stops it. Buy a new relay, they're cheap and see if that fixes your problem.
  • 90xjgirl90xjgirl Member Posts: 3
    quadratech.com wrangler and cherokee stuff is there or jeepin.com
  • mikkinmikkin Member Posts: 4
    Hey everyone...

    FINALLY.. the vibrations gone..!!! And guess what.. its not the tires, the shafts or anything major... my mechanic explained me that its the yoke in which the shaft sits which became loose due to wear and tear and that made the shaft move around causing vibrations above 55MPH... and the main part is that the jeep dealer to whom I had taken the car initially said that "this is typical jeep..!!!"...Hmmmmm.. I dunno... initially i thought of trusting jeep dealers more than my local mechanic... but i guess i was wrong...Guys.. if anyone needs any help in this regard..lemme know.. if you stay in and around upstate NY then i can give you the mechanics address..
  • bb1362bb1362 Member Posts: 1
    can you put a motor from a a0tomatic into a standerd.
  • dancermandancerman Member Posts: 220
    Is this the front or rear axle shaft, or the front or rear driveshaft? How much was the part for the repair?
  • jjurbanjjurban Member Posts: 3
    Hello all,

    I bought a 1999 Cherokee Sport. All in all, I really love it.

    But the driver's seat is in pretty bad shape. Passenger's seat is so-so.

    I do a lot of long distance driving - 8 to 13 hours at a stretch.

    Can someone please recommend some comfortable, not-too expensive replacement seats for this Jeep? A website or URL
    would be nice.

    Thank you,

    John
    Pittsburgh, PA
  • dancermandancerman Member Posts: 220
    Shortly after I bought my '99 I realized that the seats were very uncomfortable for long distance driving. I added a seat cover from JC Whitney. They are $40 each. I like them because they have a large lumbar support. I've had them for 80,000 miles.

    image

    You will need to add some foam to the top of the original seat to get a good fit. If you are a large person, they are not the best choice because they have a small seat area.
  • nvtitannvtitan Member Posts: 5
    Just some "For Your Information" on my 7 year history (yes, I still own it). 2 weeks after buying my 2001 Cherokee Sport (102 miles at the time) I had a severe vibration from the front end at speeds over 50 MPH. At the time of purchase it had factory steel rims. The dealership kept it for 2 days only to find out that the factory pushed out bad rims off the assembly line--wheels would not ballance corectly. Received a free upgrade to aluminum 5 spoke rims and had no issues since. At 12,300 miles I had the check engine light come on. The dealership could not find anything wrong electrically and changed the fuel cap--no issues since. At 51,000 miles I decided to change my rear shocks and to my surprise the heads of one of the two bolts on each side snapped off. Tried several easy outs but the shanks were so corroded in the holes that they would not bundge--took it to the dealer and had them removed (use anti-sieze on bolts when reinstalling them). Now, about 4 months ago my blower motor was intermitten. Sometimes it would go out for days then come back on. Last week it stopped working period. I tore into it and could not find the problem. Was 10 seconds away from changing parts until I narrowed it down when I decided to wiggle the wire plug going into the blower motor. Now it works again. Gotta love Cheaps--I mean Jeeps.
  • novagardnovagard Member Posts: 1
    Hi Ryan; I have a similar problem (can't remove the gear shift handle). What was the trick? Thanks
  • ryan99ryan99 Member Posts: 46
    Hi Nova..it actually just pulls off...If I remember correctly just put the key in to unlock the shifter, press the button and pull up...should come right off.
  • maclmacl Member Posts: 1
    I got 1998 Jeep Cherokee and I'd like to replace the PCV valve but I'm not sure how I can do it, cause some part shops shows me a CCV valve. Also, before to do tune-up the oil pressure was around 40 psi (37), but now after doing this I've been that oil pressure is around 60 psi and when I accelerate it almost is between 70 - 80 psi.
  • ddusseault2001ddusseault2001 Member Posts: 2
    Hi,

    Does anyone know where the horn relay is on a 1999 Jeep Cherokee? I have to get it inspected and my horn no longer works ever since my Jeep and I went for a "swim".

    Thanks for any help you can give me!

    Dina
    :)
  • tuggajbtuggajb Member Posts: 646
    horn relay is in power disb center on pas side between bat and inner fender

    tells which on on inside of cover
  • ryan99ryan99 Member Posts: 46
    Hello All, On my 99 limited the dealer replaced my ac condensor due to a metallic scraping noise coming from the pulley..( the AC worked fine) this was in November...the other day when it hit 95 degress I put on the AC and it blew warm...I was not happy to say the least. I brought it back to the dealer and they say its a leaking evaporator coil...they gave me a quote of $1165...can I do better than that? sounds high to me...I don't trust this dealer and won't go back to them regardless...Also I am reasonably handy with cars and I am wondering if this is a tough job to do myself....besides all the labor of taking the dash apart...any thoughts? thanks Ryan
  • dancermandancerman Member Posts: 220
    I am guessing you meant to type the compressor was replaced (condensor has no pulleys).

    The evaporator is under the dash. Besides being an expensive part, the labor is also costly. My neighbor had this done a while back at over $1000. Even if you do the work yourself, you will still need to have an A/C shop evacuate and charge the sytem with refrigerant. I would not do A/C work myself.

    Did the dealer do a leak test to find the evaporator leak? I would be more inclined to think that one of the connections near the replaced compressor is leaking. Any A/C shop can do this work since you don't trust this dealer. Get a second opinion. Good Luck.
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