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Dina
wrong bulb? holder not replaced right? or bad bulb (shorted in side )
If its ok I would like to ask another question.
The liftgate does not work. I took off the panel and found that the rod that goes from the handle to the latch is no longer connected to the handle. I cannot figure out how it connects. It is threaded.
I looked at a part catalog and it shows a striker and a striker plate. Is this what is missing that connects the two?
Thanks
I don't have any experience with the liftgate. Maybe you'll get an answer soon from another owner.
You may get more liftgate info here.
http://www.trademotion.com/
There's an illustration of the liftgate assy with parts identified.
They have good part prices, too. Including the turn sugnal switch.
air filter is not on top ov engine but in box on fender
Under normal conditions Grand Cherokees usually have smooth,throaty sound while accelerating.
My GC seems like it is gasping for air. It almost has the same acceleration and sound as when there is a cold start and the choke is on. However, it does not sputter, or stall. It almost sounds like it is not getting the proper amount of air. Instead of the smooth "tuned" sound ,the engine sounds like it is struggling with a loss of power.
It is intermittent, and can start or clear up during the same drive around town.
Any advice is appreciated.
The radiators are known to rust out-if you live on the east coast. The symptom will be over heating in warmer weather or climate. Mine would overheat when I drove from VT to NJ. The weather in Jersey was 15 degrees warmer.
If you have a small oil drip,it is because one of the "main seals" is known to go bad. Maybe this was fixed by 96. I could usually stop mine with an additive.
And, make sure your mechanic(or you) does not overfill the transmission oil. You will know when it happens when it leaks out onto your exhaust.
This happened with my '90 and '95 Cherokees. Both times replacing the crankshaft position sensor fixed the problem.
Here are the options:
Driver's side: Brown with 2 blue stripes vs. brown with two yellow stripes
Passenger's side: Blue with two orange stripes vs. blue with two white stripes
If anyone can tell me which is positive on both sides that would be great. I have searched the internet high and low but haven't found a wiring diagram. I was hoping not to have to go buy a Chilton's manual to figure this out.
Thanks,
Keith
Online Repair Manuals
Maybe the Crutchfield or InstallDr ones will have some hints for you.
Left Rr: + BR/YL , - BR/LB
Right Rr: + DB/WT, - DB/OR
This is for 1997 and up.
It runs fine when I start it and drive for a while, But then it starts back firing and hesitating while accelerating. I Have changed plugs, wires, cap, rotor and tried messing with the throttle position sensor but have the same problem. If anyone knows the prob please let me know or if you know a technician can you please ask them for Me the mechanics around where i live wont help they just want money.
I bought my 00' Cherokee Sport about 6 weeks ago, early August with 115k on it. This thing runs sweet,I - love - this - thing! lots of power and purrs like a kitten in vetro. I dont know why I haven't bought one sooner, can't wait for it to snow here in NE Pa., thats why I got it. The thing is I've noticed that when I start it on my way to work in the morning, the oil pressure is at 40, I drive seven miles one way to work, all highway till I get to the resort where I work and by now the oil pressure is down to 20. As I slow down for the guard at the gate it drops to about 5 and then 'click' to zero and the red 'check engine' light comes on. As long as the engine is warm or hot all day as I drive around the pressure stays at about 20, light comes on when I stop. I have driven it on a 200 mile trip like this and never once experienced anything that would indicate no oil flow to the rocker arms such as tapping or noise. Could this be a faulty sensor or sending unit with the fluctuation the way it is? After all, the first couple miles of the day it reads normal. It becomes unnerving after awhile. Thanks for any input you guys.
Took my Cherokee in for service, got it back, now it runs like CRAP !!! It has low performance, not peppy at all like before their fix, harder to start, and shudders to a stop after you turn the key off.
I called my dealer the same day I got home with it.
Come to find out, the fix involves changing the PCM, (powertrain control module) computer codes. They won't put it back like it was, I even offered to pay them, they say once they fix a recall problem, they can'y put it back like before. Now I'm stuck with a jeep that I have trouble even gettting up to speed going up a highway ramp. Now that my air - fuel ratios are messed-up, I'll have to live with it or pay for a pcm computer with the old codes.
I should have just bought a converter myself and had it put in at a muffler shop that wouldn't screw with the computer codes. I suggest you do the same, unless you want lack-luster performance from your Jeep
Anyone know how to restore my old codes, or have had similar problem, please post.
They will change the computer codes to new emmision standards and rob all that nice peppy power cherokees are known for, at least the 4.0 's
Here are my details:
Bought 2000 Jeep Cherokee in 2005. 71K miles.
Within the past two years...I've replaced: battery, transmission, oil pump (twice), bearings, rods, evap system, sway bars, bar links, bushings, and still burns through a ton of coolant. It ticks, smells burnt.
My mechanic says it needs a new engine. My warranty of course is fighting it. Is there any recourse for this???
Why am I losing antifreeze? No leaks, pressure tested.
Thanks for any help regarding this trouble.