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Jeep Cherokee

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  • balligoodballigood Member Posts: 1
    Removing the radiator, having trouble removing the transmission line cooling line. Anyone have ideas on how you remove it. Its the crimped line that goes on to a line that comes out of the bottom right (if looking from the front) of the radiator.
  • dancermandancerman Member Posts: 220
    You are probably talking about the "quick disconnect" (poorly named) connection. I believe there is a special tool for this however I've read (on other forums) that all you need to do is push the tube in then pull out. Corrosion and location apparently make remove difficult. If there are small plastic tabs at the connection, you have to squeeze them while pushing and pulling... gently though. I've never done this personally so I may be missing some of the key points.
  • dancermandancerman Member Posts: 220
    Tighten the belt (a little at a time) until no more squeeking.

    Oil pressure? How High? I'm not sure I would trust the factory guage.
  • burnsiemdburnsiemd Member Posts: 1
    HELP! I have a '99 Cherokee Classic that SOMETIMES continues to run the fan after the car is shut off (and the key is out!) I was originally told that this is normal - the fan is cooling the engine. Yet, it does not happen all the time and last night the fan ran for over 2 hours! Any ideas? Note, I am not car smart, so I will have to take it to a mechanic - if you have any thoughts, could you also guesstimate what it will cost? It is a sad thing for a blond to have a broken car!!!!!! THANKS!
  • oh97xjoh97xj Member Posts: 1
    Evening everyone! I own a 1997 Jeep Cherokee Sport with 170K miles on it and within the past 5K miles the cruise control indicator on the dash no longer illuminates when the cruise control is activated. It does not effect its operation, but I do not have a visual cue as to if the cruise is on / off. Can anyone shed some light on how to fix this problem or if you've encountered it as well?
    Thanks,
    Chris
  • dancermandancerman Member Posts: 220
    I have a '99 and the fan has never run after you shut the engine off. Assuming that the original wiring has not been altered, it seems that the relay is sticking and that's an inexpensive repair. However if the PCM (powertrain control module) is causing it to stay on then that will cost more. Some cars do run the fan after shutoff but Cherokee isn't one of them.
  • mankmanmankman Member Posts: 2
    Looking for a diagram for electrical wiring under the dash and leads to and from the fuse box for 1990 Cherokee Ltd.
    Haynes manual not specific enough on all connections and wire colors. Where can I find this??

    I purchased this Jeep in October and have been working on it since, the conditions of this Jeep was really pathetic. The entire wiring and hose systems all tangled mess when a upgrade stereo and amp was put in. Also drove it over heated and with the oil cap off, oil every where, The previous owner had put in a new radiator and dual fan unit. However the second fan I have never seen it work. yet., and it still over heats. It had a hard start problem but after cleaning off the engine, every relay, every connector, starting was a lot better. Then day 3 if limited driving it starter overheating and the parking lights stopped working. Replacing thermostat, rotor, dist. cap a few air hoses , temp sensor,head light switch, and the worst WORN OUT BATTERY CABLES you have ever seen in your life. These things were a fire hazard, and a root of many problems like junked up connectors, and wire and fuse shorts. Now down to the final wire shorting in the fuse box., blowing out the parking lights I need a better diagram for the dash wiring. Then, well hope for the best. Help Please !!
  • wentworthwentworth Member Posts: 2
    BE VERY CAREFUL!!!! I though nobody knew my pain!! I have removed them you need a special tool to remove or you can crack it or break it!! Then you are in a huge mess! They do not sell this clip without having to buy a new transmission line! I replaced a radiator and let me tell you its rough! You maybe lucky and already have a metal clip replacement. The new clips that come with a new line are metal. I searched the dealer, Napa, many stores and the clip cannot be sold without the new line. Cost: $35 to $120 If you find one please let me know. The tool you need to purchase is called a 'Actron Color coded Fuel&Oil Line Disconnect tool set' JC Whitney sells them and they also sell another tool and 'All in one'. I will say though if you want it to go smoothly just buy the tool. I think its the red one 5/8. l lost the whole crankcase when it got cold and the clip was damaged. Good luck!
  • wentworthwentworth Member Posts: 2
    I did find out today that there is a replacement for the lower radiator hose return clip that sits in the hose. Napa can get you the part. If in case you break the fastner. You will still need the proper tools to replace it though. A 5/8 red 'Actron Color coded Fuel & Oil line Disconnect tool set', or similar tool. Many times you will have the parts store tell you its a dealer part. Then the dealer tells you that you cant buy the clip separately. So they force you into purchasing the whole lower transmission line. Which can cost $35 to $120. They do sell it separately. The clip that was plastic is now metal. Its screws into the bottom of the radiator and the hose snaps in. Cost- $11 Just try not to break that clip. It often it does or just doesnt quite clip in after removal. Then you wind up like me losing all your trans oil and almost burning up your wonderful Jeep transmission.
  • prostreetjeepprostreetjeep Member Posts: 1
    okay....I love Jeeps I have 2 very nice ones....My 99 cherokee has recently gone off the hook.....heres what I have....
    yesterday it stalled twice while driving down the road...after a few tries it restarted but ran extremely rich....this morning while driving my jeep it once again died...only this time upon restart my full tank of gas went to empty and off and on registering....then as i was going 65 mph in the interstate it died....showing ABS lights on...no power windows or locks....and the stereo died....i got it started and took it home....running rich again but with no power to electrical interior....now it sits at a conveince store as it once again stalled with no restart after several tries and 4 hours in between, but the electrical items are working fine .....I'm wondering if the ground wire in driverside door may be bad? maybe the crank position sensor? Auto shutdown relay????? Just so you know i run lucus fuel treatment every 4 tanks. Its acting like the catallic converter is plugged, however that would have no barring on the electrical issues.....
  • raymond6raymond6 Member Posts: 2
    I have a 01 jeep sport.Vibration after 70mpg...have changed pinion bearing, u- joints,took out the transfer case, balance the drive shaft,.still vibration after 70mpg..I had the lift package taking out and put everything back to stock. Anyone can help me to figure out where this vibration is coming from

    Thank
    Ray
  • magoo9magoo9 Member Posts: 2
    Am looking at this cherokee to purchase,I took it for a test run,started and ran fine,then went on dirt to check 4wd,ok until I turned left or right,heard a growling noise from each side in front while turning,did it turning in reverse also. What is this noise and how much to fix.Should I run or is it not too bad to consider it for purchase,I am not a mechanic so would have to have it fixed,thanks for any help.The body is in clean condition inside and out,butt ugly blue/green color,has 4.0l auto,air cruise.what are your thoughts? thanks, Magoo.
  • 89cherokeenoob89cherokeenoob Member Posts: 5
    Are your tires designed for off roading? If so that might explain your problem
  • paulh2paulh2 Member Posts: 3
    Thought i would give the 4x4 transmission a test today, pulls the lever back into low gear and suddenly, im stuck,
    so RAC to the rescue, chap said some linkage was missing?
    and the gears has been locked into neutral.
    he has enabled it to drive in 2 wheel. but said not to touch the selector else it will get stuck in neutral again, the bar moves back and forth but will not select the drive i require.
    Is there a kit or something that would remedy this
  • tuggajbtuggajb Member Posts: 646
    sounds as if you have prob inside transfer case
  • paulh2paulh2 Member Posts: 3
    yea it seems that way thanks, would this have knocked out my reversing lights. although i have to change a front headlamp unit. I have now lost reverse light.?
    I have no manual at moment so a bit stuck.

    Jeep cherokee 1997 Limited Facelift 2.5td ( VM engine???)
    any help and suggestions on which technical manuals to get would be well recieved.
    New to Jeeps so a bit of a novice all round. and a bit out of my depth
  • lildavidjaxlildavidjax Member Posts: 68
    Sounds like the front hubs are bad. They are all one piece hubs.If that is all that's wrong with it, sounds like a good deal.Hubs cost $80.00 a piece, and simple to replace.Pull the caliper off, pull the rotor off, there is the hub.Pull the cotter pin, remove big nut in the center. Three bolts bolt the hub to the spindle.Good luck!
    David
  • magoo9magoo9 Member Posts: 2
    David,thanks for the info,would bad hubs only make noise when turning in 4wd and not in 2wd? thanks Dale.
  • morosemofermorosemofer Member Posts: 5
    my jeep will stall out going down the road usually about 60mph. sometimes it will start back up on its own and sometimes i will have to pull over and start it. ive put a new fuel filter, pump relay, and even tore down my fuel rail and injectors and soaked them in sea foam. i cant figure it out and it is driving me crazy can anyone help?
  • lildavidjaxlildavidjax Member Posts: 68
    Mine didn't make noise except in 2wd. ( That I remember) . Just thought of something, do you have u-joints or cv axles? If either are dry, they will make noise while turning. I replaced my U-joints when I replaced my hubs. ( it was only one more step to remove the axles, so I did it and replaced the u- joints while there).Let me know!
    David
  • lildavidjaxlildavidjax Member Posts: 68
    If I only had a dollar for the times I've posted this reply. :)
    Classic symptom of a bad crankshaft position sensor. Get an after-market book on the jeep and look up the test for the crankshaft sensor. ( it's a simple ohm test that can be done from under the hood.) When mine went bad it never threw a code! (check engine light). The crankshaft position sensor is located on the bell housing of the transmission on the top left side (on the back of the motor where the motor and transmission meet) For example- where your gas pedal rod goes up, if you had x-ray vision to look through the floor board, that's where it would be. Its the first least expensive thing you can do. (mine cost $58.00) I also used about a 4 feet worth of extensions to remove the two bolts because there was more "swing room" for the ratchet by the catalytic converter. One almost has to be a contortionist get the bolts started back. you must start them by hand! If you don't and they cross-thread, you will never have room to re-tap the threads!
    Good luck!
    David
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    Maybe you should write up a CarSpace Guide.

    Including some pics in contortionist mode would be an added bonus lol. I had to crawl under my dash last month to pull the alarm fuses when the siren wouldn't go off. I'm getting too old for that stuff!
  • jamzusajamzusa Member Posts: 7
    Don't do that, buy seperate pieces instead of buying name brand full price expensive 'kits'. Leafpacks don't cost much if you go to Rocky Mountain Suspension. You can get full packs for under 300.00 and front springs under 200.00. I'm sure for around 500.00 including shocks you could upgrade it. That's about what I paid. As for using 'other truck springs'... That's highy unadvisable! I would get a second job before I'd do something not very good like that. Springs are made specifically for each model truck, they don't interchange between manufacturers very well and I wouldn't recommend it. Just save the money and buy the real thing. Then again, that's my advice and what I did. My next move is to higher lift, like 8inch which is about as high as you can buy. Skyjacker makes those parts and if you buy them seperate they aren't very much of course you might have to change other suspension parts up front but to mix and match parts off other makes of trucks doesn't show very much smarts for knowing anything at all about suspension. Suspension isn't just 'suspension', it's made for each truck individually by each company that manufacturers the truck. They aren't meant to mix and match and have something exact come out of it at all. But, that's my advice as I like to do things right.
  • rd75rd75 Member Posts: 10
    I posted before about the mysterious slow coolant loss in my '01 Cherokee Classic, however I never could find the problem. After I put too much money into it (checking the head, replacing head gasket), I decided to just drive on, since it ran fine and the oil always looked fine, and see how long it would last. That was 3 years ago, and a couple months ago I went to start it and it was knocking noticeably. Checked the crankcase, and there was the dreaded "chocolate milkshake" look to the oil. Not real bad, but enough to know not to drive it. So where ever the coolant was slowly going finally opened up.
    So after the money I've put into it already, I don't want to put much more in it. Definitely not what it would cost for a complete rebuild or a new engine. So I'm thinking of selling it, but have no idea what to ask for it. It silver, has 145,000 miles, and is in very good-to-excellent condition inside and out. What would you all think this is worth? Knowing it needs the engine rebuilt or replaced?
  • tidestertidester Member Posts: 10,059
    You should take a look at our TMV new car prices, used car pricing, used car values at Edmunds.

    tidester, host
    SUVs and Smart Shopper
  • rd75rd75 Member Posts: 10
    Yes, I checked that out, but it doesn't give information on non-running vehicles. That's the key here, I'm trying to get an idea what I should ask for it. I don't want to just give it away..
  • tidestertidester Member Posts: 10,059
    Roughly speaking, you would take the TMV and subtract off your best estimate of what it would take to make the necessary repairs.

    tidester, host
    SUVs and Smart Shopper
  • natetynesnatetynes Member Posts: 1
    after locksmith (slim jim) power windows/mirrors dont work, dome light stays on, locks only with remote- what the heck?
  • dancermandancerman Member Posts: 220
    It's obvious that he pulled the wire harness loose inside the door. Take it to him and make him pay for the repair.
  • femjeeperfemjeeper Member Posts: 2
    I had a similar problem with my grand cherokee not too long ago noticed that one of my pullys wasnt spinng at all which caused a lot of wear and tear on all the others but once i had that replaced everything was back to normal and my oil pressure went back to normal so if you havent checked yet you should see if all pullys are functioning its a hard thing to see so you might want to chalk them and watch for your chalk to move.
  • femjeeperfemjeeper Member Posts: 2
    Ok so i have a 96 grand cherokee that i recently had to replace its ac pump shortly after doing that i noticed i had two new problems one being that my heater will blow hot air for about 5 min. then blows nothing but cold air, the other problem I have is my new part makes a god awefull whistle what could be the cause of these problems and how would i go about correcting them.
  • paparandapaparanda Member Posts: 6
    I have a 1985 Jeep that i recently bought my problem is this. When i'm driving and i hit a pothole going 55 mph or faster the entire engine shakes, now its not just minor movement my entire front end shakes almost violently, At first i thought it was my struts, but after changing the struts it happened again. The thing runs beautifully considering the year, but i don't want my engine dropping out eventually. Someone told me that it could possibly be my motor mounts or even my cv half shaft. I'm at a loss now because i don't want to spent thousands changing everything out and still not fixing the problem. If anyone knows or has a solution to my problem i would greatly appreciate it. I have worked non stop for 2 days trying to figure this out but i'm running out of funds and cigarettes please HELP!!!!
  • ryan99ryan99 Member Posts: 46
    Hi Papa, I had this same problem on my 99 cherokee. its newer but the technology is the same. 50-60 mph on the highway, hit a bump and she jumps up and down so bad you sometimes have to pull over to calm it down. The problem was a leaking steering damper. $90 part from dealer, half hour labor to put it in. i never tried to do the job myself, might be an easy one. If you look Underneath your Cherokee, there will be a thing that looks like a horizontal shock absorber (because thats what it is) running in between your two wheels. It helps keep the jeep in control. If it looks to be leaking, chances are thats your problem.
  • karpindurkarpindur Member Posts: 11
    I have a 2001 Sport with 140,000 miles, and have used Bosch Platinum since it hit 25,000 with no problem. Every time I buy them, or ask a mechanic, they tell me not to use them however, and to stick with Champion or Mopar..Ignoring them has caused no problems but it has always bugged me. If anyone knows why the "experts" insist on OEM type plugs I would like to hear it.
  • karpindurkarpindur Member Posts: 11
    Charley,
    Just saw your post and realize its two years too late, but here is what I have: I had the same issue with my 01 Cherokee at 130,000 miles. Oil pressure would drop to zero and I would pull off the road and kill the engine, wait a minute and then restart, and it would go back up. It finally went to zero and stayed there at a time when I had no choice but to keep driving. The engine survived just fine, which led me to believe there was an error with gage. After doing some research, I bought a new oil pressure sending (sensor) unit and went to replace it. It is mounted on top of the oil filter and very easy to get to. When I unplugged the wire harness it popped off under pressure which should not happen. The male and female ends of the plugs were also full of oil. Looking closely at the sensor end of the plug I found a hairline crack that explains both issues. When I cleaned the ends and plugged it back in the pressure reading was fine, and has been so every since. The oil leak has either stopped or is contained within the plug. The $50 sending unit now resides in my tool box. By the way, Mobil One has proved itself in this engine as it runs like the day I bought it...Which happens to be the same day I had the OEM oil removed and replaced with Mobil One. ;)
  • karpindurkarpindur Member Posts: 11
    There is an open, four prong plug hanging near the fire wall just behind the tranny dip stick on my '01 4.0 Cherokee Sport. I was told at Advance Auto that it is for connecting to diagnostics, but I have never confirmed that through other sources. Seems odd that the gauge would go down after the transmission work doesn't it?
  • karpindurkarpindur Member Posts: 11
    I had a similar problem that turned out to be, I hope, a cracked plug of the Oil Sender (sensor). I took the plug apart, cleaned it, plugged it back together, and have been driving it every since with good and stable pressure. As such, I would really like to know how your situation played out and an update would be sincerely appreciated. :confuse:
  • jeepster15jeepster15 Member Posts: 4
    I have the same issue. However, I can't find the location of the oil pressure sender. Where's it located on the engine block??? :confuse:
  • mtscarecrowmtscarecrow Member Posts: 1
    My 1990 Cherokee Laredo won't go into 4WD. I pull the 4WD lever up and it feels like it works but the 4WD doesn't engage. I've heard the the vacum actuator could be bad, a leak in the vacum line, the lever needs adjusting, or something else. Can anyone give me some imput. I had a 1987 Cherokee "Cherokee Chief" and never had a problem with the 4WD. Is the actuator easy to replace?
  • tuggajbtuggajb Member Posts: 646
    right by the oil filter
  • animal69animal69 Member Posts: 1
    Try checking the u-joints/cv joint on the drive shafts, front and rear. I had similar problem, except the vibration in the steering wheel, my rear u-joint on the rear drive shaft went bad, and would cause a lot of vibration under heavy load. I replaced it and that fixed the problem.
  • snooky57snooky57 Member Posts: 1
    I have a sensor in the back lift door I need to unplug that goes to the washer . I need to know how to unplug it and which one it is. Anybody HELP
  • k1yakk1yak Member Posts: 1
    My 99 Cherokee power locks are running themselves. you close the door and they just start clicking on and off, then stop, then randomly do it over & over until the battery is dead. I have to take the fuse out, then I lose all of my instruments & interior lts., which are apparently on the same fuse. When this started happening, the keychain button also quit working the doors. Any ideas?
  • jeepboyjeepboy Member Posts: 1
    i have a 1999 jeep cherokee sport with an HO inline 6. ive researched and looked everywhere on the vehicle and cant figure out what kind of transmission is in it. Its four wheel drive automatic. thats all i know about it. some help would be great.
  • mferrismferris Member Posts: 1
    ive replaced the thermastat water pump and flushed the radiator 2 times it still overheats ive also changed the drivebelt any suggestions HELP
  • tuggajbtuggajb Member Posts: 646
    even thogh you flushed rad it prob is part pluged have it ever been changed?

    take to rad shop and see if they can check flow rate but new rad is prob cheaper

    also check the fan clutch when engine is hot and you shut off motor you should feel drage when you turn the fan by hand (be carefull as the rad will be hot ) when you try this.
  • kbatchelorkbatchelor Member Posts: 1
    the air will only come out of the defrost vents when you change the control to any position. Wife's jeep so please help me.
  • lildavidjaxlildavidjax Member Posts: 68
    Your vacuum line under the the hood rotted off. All your duct systems are controlled by vacuum from the engine. Open the hood and look around the firewall on the passenger side of the car, ( I Believe that is where it is, I'm not driving my Jeep today and I'm at work). You will find that the hose has most likely come off. If its in good shape, you can just cut off the rotted piece and stick it back on, if its in bad shape, just replace the whole hose. Just look around the firewall there, you'll see where it came off. Please let me know if this works or not.
    David
  • mjgirardmjgirard Member Posts: 10
    I had the same problem last year and replaced the cruise control vacuum hose which the earlier reply mentioned. I ran a new line from the firewall to the cruise control and underneath the battery to the blatter underneath the bumper and now it works great.

    Good luck, it really is an easy job.
    MJGirard
  • loosenutloosenut Member Posts: 165
    i've just read your post about the heater problem with your cherokee..it's july now,and hope you found a solution before now..if not,heres what i suggest..
    ..if you have a/c,there is a vacum operated water valve connected in with the heater hoses..this shuts off the flow of water to the heater core..try moving this valve manually,to see if it;s frozen/rusted into position..try applying some vacum to the digaphram,and seeing if that makes it work..you can test weather you are getting vacum by running the engine,and putting the heater controls either on heat,or air condition,then pulling thee line to the valveone or the other (probably a/c) will give your valve vacum..
    ..a simple ,and probably cheaper fix would be a trip to the hardware store,and getting a simple water valve.i recomend a ball valve,in either a 5/8,or 3/4 size ,fitted with hose barbs..this will allow you to turn on and off the water to the heater core
    ..usually,you will only need to open this valve when cold weather comes,then turn it off when the heat of summer comes to keep the engine heat out of the interior..
    ..if your heating controls are not working,check your main vacum line for your controls..usually when age has dried out the rubber line..cut it back only as mutch as you need,as this will give you a few more opportunities to fix it without having to replace the entire line....
    sorry for the late response,but i hope this helps! :shades:
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