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--ALSO!! NEVER-NEVER run ANY of that 5wxx oil!! this stuff wasn't even used as break in oil back in the -70's..it's too thin!!..
-as a extremely poor person-forced to drive other's throw aways,and have bought more than one car,where despite what i thought was a decent test drive-when -80 degree weather hit-i'd start hearing a rod knocking..one car was so bad,and my need for a running car were so desprate,i ran straight sae 50 in it..it lasted me over two years!..not too bad for a 500.car..
--why the manufacturers recomend this thin-crappy oil is two fold..one is,a engine running thinner oil will get a ounce better gas mileage,raising their corprate fuel mileage..--second,running 5w20 oil ,the engine will only last about 100,00 miles-at best,and that's when they want you back in the showroom,so they can sell you a NEW one..making cars last doesn't do their bottom line any good,-it's called "planned obsolecense"..that's why fuel pumps-witch are a ROYAL pain to replace-only last about 80,000..
--if you want what you got to last,use the heavier oil,put in the zmax,don't put that cheap crappy gas in a old car(duuuuh!!)heavy synthetic-a10 or 15w40-50 in a jeep should keep it putting along for many good miles,-it won't help when you roll it down the hill sideways,but-ya can't have everything!!
Fine, until my boyfriend drove it for several hours coming home from vacation (OBX to Maryland). We were loaded to the roof and had two large kayaks on the top, one of the largest loads the Jeep has ever had to haul. My boyfriend likes to drive as fast as possible, so I'd say between 80 and 85 MPH, he also made it down shift to pass other vehicles at this speed. Needless to say, it got too hot. He says there is something still wrong with it. Is there, or is he expecting too much from a 1994 Cherokee? I usually drive it at about 65 MPH and never have any problems. Not even in stop and go traffic where the engine is not getting
Redlining is probably not a good idea!
tidester, host
SUVs and Smart Shopper
--did it hurt it?,or is it still running-the way you normally drive it?
-downshifting for power is better than "lugging" the engine..(from a old bus driver running the las vegas run many times)..saw many "city drivers" try todrive the desert grades in drive,while i had to downshift-and would burn up their motors!..
-downshifting isn't nesiserially bad,but watch the tackometer-and don't "redline"-especially an old,tired engine..you gotta be easy on old stuff-if you want it to last..it'd be like taking a old horse-loading it down,and expecting it to run the kentucky derby!
i agree with you..take it easy on old gear-if you want it to last!! :shades:
Usually a rough idle will eventually be chased down to a vacuum line either partially connected, disconnected, or connected to the wrong place.
Thank you.
I have a 2001 Cherokee, and have the same issue. Have you been able to resolve this, and if so, could you elaborate?
Thanks.
--a GREAT trick i learned with vacum leaks is to take carb cleaner,and a "straw"(like on a can of wd40?)
spray around these places that it could be leaking--while the engine is running--if the engine starts stalling-or running faster--THAT'S WHERE YOUR VACUM LEAK IS!!! fixing the leak is the next step..
good luck!!
There should be plenty of room in there to get at it. Let us know what year and engine and we can answer your question.
I never even knew Jeep offered a 2.5 diesel until today so I don't think I'll be able to help you with this one!
Good luck with it.
--make shure you have the right replacement filter,as being stuck-if this is your only ride,it'll be a long walk back to the parts shop..wet the rubber "O" ring with a dab of oil before you install the new one-kind of like THE DIRECTIONS SAY?..sorry,but get a lot of people asking things that are printed on the box..
never overfill the engine..it's better to run it 1/2 quart low-than over,as the extra oil puts extra pressure,and can damage sealsand more fun things like that..after adding oil,and running engine-to fill the filter,check for leaks,DON'T over-torque the filter,as that will make getting it off the next timeextra difficult..that "extra" twist-just to make shure it's tight-COULD crush the filter's seal,and make it leak..spin it down till it contacts the seat,then3/4 of a turn(use the labels on the filter to judge),and it should be fine..
-----
--your 1 inch clearence should be just enough to get the old one out,and the new one on..
good luck-and let us know ifin it worked or not..
-they make a 2/3 sized filter for those tight applications..the simple way i'd find it would be to look up dodge filters,(phram's numbers are prefixed with a "ph"..the big one was a ph8a,the small one was-ph16a,or something like that,but check with your parts place-or,are you having to order and ship?
-but give that a whack..ok? :sick:
-my grand cherokee laredo has the 5.2-v8 in it,witch-being a chrystler 318(basically-with the fuel injection upgrade,but still-internally,the same engine they've beeen making since the -70's)-normally used a-ph8a-,.. ph-being phram's prefix,other manufactures use their own prefix,but usually keep the same model number acrost product lines..
-with all the junk,and tight header configuration-they recomend the -ph16a- ..that's the 1/2 sized one-but still fits on the block using the same thread size-gasket placement..it's just shorter in stature (height) than the regular-full sized one.--get the model number off of the old filter-then that will help them find the 1/2 size you need..
good luck!
--see if a REMOTE-MOUNT FILTER KIT is available ? ! .
..with a mount-a few hi pressure hoses,and changing the filter would be the simplest ! you'd mount the other end of the bracket-anywhere it'd fit-like th fender,or core support !..also,they say it works kinda as a oil cooler,as th filter would get cooler air acrost ir=t, ! !..
--phram is a great place,here in the states anyway,as all the auto parts have them..their "textured grip" filter-where i can get enough grip on a old filter,i've changed them with just my hand !..didn't need a wrench!..that impressed me,great idea..
-with a clerance issue,the remote filter-if available-and not cost a fortune-might be a great way to go ! ? ..keep me informed..and good luck!
take it out for a long drive-cell phone handy !,and it might get her cleared out..also,put the highest octane-best fuel in it you can..even leave it sit and idle-making shure it's not overheating,and get her loosened up..
-the transmisssion being difficult might mean THAT fluid-and filter need changing..or,it's nearing where it needs rebuilt..if it's automatic..(i assume)..ain't it fun getting old-forgotten trucks to live again??..make shure to check for dry-rotted rubber hoses..heard where a fella found a old corvette in a barn..figured to "just drive it around the block..",fuel line gave way,spraying fuel on the hot engine--burnt it to the ground..!he was not happy..
--be careful,and have fun !..glad th phram filter worked out! :shades:
Are you kidding me? I'd have kicked his funny butt out at the next highest peak.
Besides he's just jealous of your expertise and the amount of time you 'wasted' on your Jeep.
-yes,jeeps are "ruff -and-ready",all gears and steel.!
-and "babe" is a great name for her..with a word of caution..if you start bragging about her-that's when they break down,usually with one of those "mystery" ailments..
-so,the "cure" is -every now and again,curse her just a bit-kick her in the bumper-somewhere it's not gonna dent,and she'll run forever..start talking good about it,and you-and your mate-may end up using "shoe leather express"(rofl)..best of luck with babe..sounds like you got a good one..(slap-boink!)-to her..
p.s;
if it's been setting that long,change the axle grease,and the transfer case oil..show it SOME love?!..
Other than that, I'd start chasing wires after confirming the switch is good and you do not have power at the rear grid (one lead to the wire coming into the grid; the other one to ground.
If the switch is good, the likely culprit is where the wire goes into the hatch from the body itself.
Cheers
Gary07
-you should get resistance from the two terminals at the glass(a complete circut)..
-next,see if you get any power at the window..then,check the ground side..(that's the one that always got me stuck!)
--if the amber light isn't coming on-it could just be the amber light-if the switch checks out ? !..check and see if the amber light gets power,then check it's ground..
--electrical problems are some of the hardest things to diagnose,and with cars getting more complicated-it ain't gonna get any easier ! !-especially when we get-(shudder. ! )-electric cars! !..that's gonna be a LOT of fun! ! :shades:
--if you can dig up a L-O-N-G- TEST LEAD,TRY PUTTING STRAIGHT POWER TO THE GLASS-ON THE POSITIVE SIDE....(MAYBE THEN YOUR AMBER LIGHT WILL LIGHT?)--sorry-caps lock stuck..
--all this sounds like you've got a bad relay..unplug the relay,and with the test wire,unplug it from the glass-gently,-then,go back to where the relay plugs in,and see if there is power at the "output" point,if not,wire is broken somewhere..i have run a extra wire-tucking it in,so it doesn't look bad-just to save trying to trace where a broken wire is..
--have you tried replacing the relay??--if you hear it "clicking",have someone turn it on and off,while you trace it by ear ! ?..
--no power at the glass means a bad relay usually..try the simpler things first,then go for the more complicated..after all,it's just a 12v circut-but it pulls a pretty heavy load..
--if you get it working,and find a few bars in the grid that aren't heating-they sell a conductive-copper colored paint-used to repair defrosters..
best of luck!
-the relay has TWO sourses of power..one to activate the coil(the clicking noise),then-and where your problem may be-is a thirty-to-fifty amp fuse that would put power to the window..check owners manual,or the fuse diagram-grouped with things like the heavy fuse for the a/c,and see if that's the trouble..it just might be !
lots of luck! :shades:
-fuses blow from a power surge..coulda been something got wet,and pop !..that's why they are there..
you have made my day !..
i helped someone figure out a problem,and a kinda complex one at that !...so,does the amber light work now?
also,there is a timer on that circut,think it runs 15/20 minutes,to keep it from gettin too hot!
was the fuse under the hood?-right or left side?,just to help the next person who runs into this problem!
have a great day! :shades:
-this is EXACTLY why chat boards like this were set up,and why they are sucesful..despite my horrid spelling(spellcheck? what's that??)haha..
now,if i could just find someone to help me with the noise in my rear axle-short of replacing or rebuilding,witch is where i'll probably end up..
glad we got your electrical problem sorted out,and-who knows?,maybe helped someone else out there just following our blog ? ! have a great day !