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I appreciate all the help I have been given by this forum. We own a 2001 Jeep Cherokee Sport. We need to get new tires. We don't use it off-road other than the gravel roads in our small town. We live in the mountains of Utah and get a good deal of snow. The summers here are dry and we have very little rain. We are looking for a good all-around tire that we can use on this vehicle. Any comments, suggestions or ideas will be appreciated.
As for tire carriers, check out:
Tomken
Custom 4x4 Fabrication
Protofab 4x4
Hanson Enterprises
AEV Conversions
Bulletproof Mfg
For the price, the best one is the Custom4x4. I have their tow hook brackets and they're great. The AEV one is apparently very nice, but I've heard on people on Jeeps Unlimited having waited over 6 months and still not receiving theirs. I like the look of the ProtoFab one but it may not match on the new (97+) body style. Finally the Bulletproof Mfg one is just that but it is very expensive. I'm waiting to save up some money for one to import it (Tomken is the only one available up here, and even then I have to get it from Vancouver which is far from Winnipeg) or learn to weld and create my own.
Just some questions to help you figure it out.
the speed shop one you will probably have to bolt or clamp to the steering column
Whatever broke the first set will likely do the same to the next set if you are still doing it (are you a stonemason?)
Good luck.
Has anyone had any similar experiences with this type of problem on the Cherokee?
This will be our "spare" vehicle to knock around in on weekends and haul the occasional odd-sized item (our other two cars are 4-door sedans). It will replace my '82 F350 which I bought a year ago; which while fine for hauling stuff, doesn't offer a) room for the family of four, b)4WD, or c)decent fuel economy (truck ranges between 8-10mpg). I want something I can drive in bad weather to cart everyone around, but if I slide into something on a snowy day, I won't be out too much for repairs (or insurance).
The fact that the Cherokee has been around for years appeals to me, since even older models don't look extremely dated, and there should be plenty of used parts available down the road. Any guidence would be greatly appreciated!
Thanks again!
Another history
I was trying to find some more as I know there is one site out there that is really informative but I can't remeber it. Key points not found entirely in the article above: In '91 they added the 4.0 HO engine. There was also a switch over point to an open cooling system from a closed one (bad) and I think it was '92 or '93. '87 to '89's can possibly have a Dana 44 rear axle which is much preffered to the Dana 35 that came between 84 and 96 or so. After 96 the jeep got either a Dana 35 or a Chrysler 8.25 which is almost as strong as the D44. You can tell the difference by looking at the back of the rear axle. The D35 has an oval cover and the 8.25 has a flat bottom.
I just found another site about the different engines:
http://bigcherokee.com/engine.html
Ended up buying a 97 Wrangler. Still a little short on leg room, but at least I don't interfere with steering.
So if you had to pick one model to target, would you look for an 87-89 with the Dana 44 rear axle (but w/2.8l Chevy engine?), a post-91 model w/the 4.0 engine, a '93 with better cooling, or a '97 with improved electricals? I'm guessing a '93 with the 4.0 engine might be the best compromise for me, based on limited 4WD usage, but needing the better cooling (Arkansas summers can get nasty!), and probably not being able to afford a '97 model.
There were also numerous 4WD systems available at different times; anything to avoid/seek there?
I have a 2001 Sport with Select-trac with the tow package which is a must I figure because not only do you get the Class III hitch, but you get the tranny cooler, too. You can get better aftermarket Tranny coolers as well. I love the Selec-trac and wanted it because of the winters we have up here. The NP242 Transfer case (Selec-trac) is stronger than the NP231 Transfer case (Command-Trac) in some respects and weaker in others. I've heard that the chain assembly is stronger but the overall impression is that the 242 is a weaker case simply because it has more components. The 231 case is preferred by some because it is simpler and there are more modifications available for it. Personally, I think the difference will never be noticed by anyone not doing serious off-roading. There were also two other transfer cases offered way back in the mid to late 80's along with the 2.8L chevy V-6. I think they were the np228 and np229 (Command and Selec-trac respectively). In those years the front axle was also a vacuum disconnect which is people have different opinions on. The 2.8L engine is viewed by almost everyone as a dog, however it makes for an easy swap down the road for another Chevy engine, the most common being the 3.1L and the 3.4L Camaro engine. For the 4.0, they pretty much maxed out the performance gains in 2001. Improvements that can be made to any version of the 4.0 include a Ram-air type setup, a bored out throttle body and spacer, headers and a more free flowing exhaust and catalytic converter.
The Dana44 rear end came only in certain models back in '87-89. They were usually the towing package or the 'metric tonne package'. They are very rare and very sought after because an aftermarket axle is big bucks. Right now (and in the conceivable future) I'm happy with my 29-spline 8.25" Chrysler axle. When they first developed it there was a 27 spline version that is slightly weaker (closer to a D35 in strength, not much of an improvement). The Dana35 axle is not weak by any means, but the consensus on the off road boards and lists I read is that if you use lots of power and/or larger tires, you'll be replacing axle shafts. Personally, I would love to find a Dana44 axle but I haven't even tried looking yet. It's only a slight increase in strength over the new 8.25 but it does have larger drum brakes. A better swap is a '95+ Ford Explorer 8.8" rear axle. You have to weld, or have someone else weld, the spring pads/shock mounts but the kit is only $160US. This axle is even if not stronger than the D44 and you get rear disk brakes. Plus different models had better gear ratios and a limited slip similar to the Trac-loc found in Jeeps. I have a Trac-lok, too. It's not bad. One problem of the 8.25" Chrysler axle is the difficulties it can cause when adding lift to the suspension of a Cherokee. It is a little longer on the snout and can cause driveshaft angle to more easily exceed vibration free operating angles.
My plans for the Jeep are pretty much as follows:
- I've already installed some aftermarket tow hooks from Custom 4x4 Fabrication but because I don't have anyone to wheel with I haven't needed them yet.
- I have the transfer case skid and gas tank skid. I managed to get them from the states when Mopar was clearing them out for real cheap. If I wanted them now, I'd go to a junk yard.
- I have a 2" lift coming eventually. It cost only $110 US plus shipping and should be relatively easy to install. I actually have very little mechanical ability or experience. I would go larger but because of the redesign in '97, all newer jeeps are more prone to damaging driveline vibrations.
- I have a few ideas for bumpers (front and rear), side rails/steps, etc but I'm waiting to take a welding course and maybe make my own.
- I would love to do some engine mods like those I listed above but money is always an object and most of the stuff I have to order from the states which is super expensive by the time it gets here.
If I had to buy another Jeep right now I would probably look for a nice '95 limited or laredo. I would most likely go with the command-trac if I was going to off-road it lots and/or not drive it under slippery conditions. You wouldn't believe how many days we had here this winter where I was in Full-time but part-time would have been bad for the driveline. I would also check the back to see what differential I was going to be getting. Oh, the D35 usually came with the vehicles with ABS.
Now that I'm done my opus, I should tell you that all the information above has been gleaned by reading on the web. Like I said, I don't have tons of mechanical knowledge and I've only owned by Jeep for 10 months. Check out sites like:
Jeeps Unlimited
North American XJ Association
Cherokee America
Please let me know out there if you have an answer.
http://www.auto-parts-direct.com/
They offer discounted prices on OEM parts. Just fill out their form with what you want, and they will send you a quote.
I am considering a nice deal my dealer has on a 2002 Grand Cherokee Limited set up just like I was looking for---except it has a High Output V8 engine rather than the regular V8.
My dealer (and Jeep brochures) says that it is "OK" to run regular gas in the HO V8, particularly around town. Anyone have experience doing this? I would rather not always have to feed my SUV the premium gas, would like to have the option to use Premium only when I want it for highway performace and the price is right...
Your comments appreciated.
Bob
i too love the jeeps. i own a wagoneer(anyone who owns one knows it HAS to be love to own the LAST carb engine on the planet) I also own a 99 classic with every option there is except abs . go figure.
but , i own three manuals my 88. my 99 ,and my former 96 sport . what is wrong with you man ?
VERY COOL
ed
Car has 81K miles. In process of changing fluids
since I have no idea how religious prior owner
was/wasn't. Transmission and oil already done,
steering fluid next. I've noticed that the
engine runs ( if I can trust the gauge ) at about
210 degrees. This is some 30-40 degrees hotter than the GM products I'm used to driving. I'd like some feedback from experienced owners as to whether this is normal, or should I go ahead with a thermostat change and/or flush the radiator and replace the coolant?
The in-line six is pretty impressive from a torque standpoint and the ride is somewhat better than I expected from a 4X4 SUV.
You might want to change the differential fluids as well.
There is a Vehicle Comparision Tool, but it's only for the new models.
Steve
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Can't wait for the 03 GMC Envoy XL so I can trade this Chrysler crap in.
The build split is appox like this: 60% are Sports, 9% are SEs, 20% are Classics and 11% are Limiteds. Most dealer (other than Jeep) have no clue of the differences, calling them all Cherokee Sports. They think that is the name of all of them! I have gone to look at "Cherokee Sports" only to find it's a Classic, or Limited or SE !
Any input on the break issue would be helpful
However, under the circumstances, maybe not.
?
The unwritten DC policy on the rotors is the first ones are free during the 36K warranty. Second ones are on you. Technically, they are only covered under the 12K warranty. My first set were swapped at 24K, and I have a slight vibration again at 36K on my '01. I've found that they vibrate worse after towing or very hard braking. They make aftermarket rotors that will fix the problem, but they cost about $200. I don't think you'll find too many manufacturers willing to put $200 rotors on their vehicles, particularly rather cheap ones.