Jeep Cherokee

stever · February 2001

What, there's a shortcut to Detah or you going further? I've driven a minivan up there, but don't think I'd want to try that this time of year (not sure I'd wanna try it in a Cherokee right now).

Steve
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dane5 · February 2001

Yes, there is an ice road to Dettah built every year. I also have to drive to Fort Resolution (Deninu Kue First Nation) which is 600 km around the lake. You go through Hay River and it's the only community on the other side. For fun though, me and a buddy are going to drive the Lupin ice road, maybe this weekend because it just opened. The Lupin ice road was built to allow big rigs to haul supplies to the diamond mines (BHP--operating mine) and (Diavik--under construction). It crosses six lakes and goes all the way to the barrenlands (about 300 km). We're hoping to see Muskox at the barrenlands but we always see things like Wolverine, rabbit, bear, silver-haired fox, lynx, sometimes wolf, and a whole host of other wildlife. As for the drive in winter, I went home for Christmas (Vancouver) and on the way back there had been a huge dump of snow past High Level. Many big trucks were in the ditch, there was no plowing being done (that I could see), and I made it through no problem. And that is one hell of a long stretch. Anyway, don't try the Lupin ice road in a mini-van. Later, Dane.

stever · February 2001

Sounds like a fun trip! (enjoy the view from the "skyscraper" in Hay River). I took a right to go to Wood Buffalo, and skipped Ft. Resolution. Maybe next time:-)

Steve
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bblaha · February 2001

Here's what might happen:

The front driveshaft is chain driven. While a chain is strong, it doesn't compare to a gear.

I don't have any personal experience with this, nor do I personally know anyone that has either. However, I've heard "rumors" that prolonged use of the front driveshaft can stretch the chain, causing it, at some point, to start slipping within the transfer case.

Though for what you are doing, I wouldn't change your driving habit at all. Just be aware that this "might" occur.

rrhobbs · February 2001

Thoughts, advice or insights appreciated...(Sorry for the long post)
I have an '88 Cherokee Pioneer, 162k, 4.0, 5sp man 4wd, cloth seats, power st/br (I think this was a package), Colorado Red. I bought it in (I think) Feb'96 with 111k, I paid the previous owner $4100 cash for it. The previous owner had just put new tires on it, I put a new set on last fall.
The body is fair, no debilitating rust but a few dings (one is a particularly annoying ding in the the rear window joist from an ornery tail gating truck driver but thats another story, a slightly bent front bumper (NYC fender bender 3 days after I had it replaced grrr) and the pass side rear view mirror is epoxied in place (it was broken when I boght it but didnt notice till an auto-wash broke it off, of course they said nada, I heard it flapping in the breze on the way home)
I have it securely in place but now every other "brushless" car wash knocks it off so I dont get it washed often enough- I've resolved to start taking it to a self wash I've found (they aren't that common around here- here being North Jersey near NYC). I daydream about getting these blemishes fixed...
Besides it's little aches and pains since I bought it I've had to replace the clutch master cylinder/slave twice(one goes, the other follows);once about a year ago just recently; and the clutch pedal. The first time going into the tranny for the slave we did the clutch too,so it has a pretty new clutch with maybe 10k on it.
We were both pretty confounded that these parts went so quick- Checking on the warranty with the parts wholesaler my mechanic (Matt) was told by the wholesaler that he gets this story about old jeeps all the time- That the firewall has a manufacturing deficiency (too thin?) and that high mileage jeeps go thru these parts quickly because the deformation causes the plunger to move at an errant angle (hence the clutch pedal failing- it was "clicking" and eventually quit working)? What does anyone with any knowledge think of this?
The kickers are that this last time the slave cylinder went I was caught in traffic (with no clutch!) I was less than a mile from my garage and on the way to being late for a very important appointment so rather than pull over and call AAA and have it the truck towed in I forced it to start by cranking it and jamming it into gear. I >did< start it and made it to the garage in one piece, the clutch works again but now it grinds unless I apply just the right touch shifting into third. My mechanic (who I trust implicitly, he is in the neighborhood, is reasonable and has done all my auto work the past 10 years)says the only way to fix this problem is to rebuild the tranny (gulp) He gave me a ballpark estimate today of $1500-1700.
The other issue is NJ's emiisions laws which I need to check into a little further. The last time I needed to get it inspected(generally once a year in NJ I think) my mechanic warned me that that the new equipment private inspection stations had been required to get was very expensive and the test very stringent and pass/fail only ($80 please)and that I would be better off going to the state inspection station(free), they were still using the old style. So I went, I passed and received an extended inspection thru 2002. I'm not sure what all this was about, all I knew was that was "in" but I'm wondering what is going to happen next inspection?
Will I be "grandfathered" in or forced to do an expensive? emissions system overhaul? Or just flat out failed and told I cant drive the car anymore. I need to get more info about this- Does anybody know anything? They do some screwball "car things" in this state sometimes.
So ther dilemma is whether to get the tranny job done or dump the car (I think its trade in is about $500-$1280)
The tranny job is roughly the amount of a puny down payment on a new vehicle. Then I'm looking at 5 or 6 years at about $300/mo plus comp insurance (I presently only carry liability- but a lot)
But still thinking about issues with my good'ol Jeep...
I really have enjoyed this truck and have relished >not< being under car and insurance payment pressures after enduring same (as student no less.)
Once again...
Ideas, insights, advice appreciated.
RH

rinfantino · February 2001

Hi all -
Just purchased my 5th Jeep, but it's my first Cherokee. I've been spoiled, since I bought and just recently sold a 2000 wrangler (financial reasons - miss it terribly). Now I'm the proud owner of a '96 Cherokee Sport 4D, auto 6 with 50K miles. It feels solid, runs great (slight clunk when accelerating), no frills except AC. I think I got a great deal. Just need to know what to expect with an older Cherokee. Has there been any serious problems noted with this year? This place was instrumental in helping me with the Wrangler. I'm sure I'll get the same great advice on the Cherokee. Any info will help. Thanks.
Rick

dane5 · February 2001

Hi all,

It's me again. I have a question about the suspension on the Cherokee Sport. I was driving with three adults in the back seat and on every little bump it seems like the suspension bottomed out. At least that's what it sounded like and felt like. The passengers pointed it out and I argued with them, saying that the suspension on the Jeep is stiff. I talked about the uni-body frame and such, but didn't know what the hell I was talking about. I said there was no way it could be bottoming out on such small bumps because of the clearance it had. The springs may have been stiff because it was -32, I said. But the passengers argued with me. Is this normal? To be honest, I've noticed a similar clunk, usually under the rear wheels (or wheel)on bumps even while driving by myself. I thought it was normal for this type of vehicle. Is it? Because my Cherokee Sport is brand new, I can't imagine there being serious suspension problems. I haven't done any seriously hard 4x4 driving or anything. Deep snow and ice but not to bad. It still feels secure to drive, I mean it doesn't bounce around or anything. Any insights into this?
Thanks, Dane.

green20 · February 2001

Humor me here . . .
I have a new cherokee sport and I think its a great vehicle. This is my first 4x4 WITHOUT a slip differential so I have some concerns.

First, it seems that pt 4wd significantly effects the vehicle's turning radius. The front wheels are forcing the jeep wide on normal turns (in snow, etc.)

Second, because the front wheels MUST be able to slip, command track contradicts the purpose of having 4wd. My jeep loses traction in turns whereas 4x4s I drove in the past added traction in turns.

I'd appreciate any opinions

sebring95 · February 2001

That's pretty much the way it works. Command Trac locks the front and rear, so they will drive equally instead of shifting power back and forth. For never leaving the road, Selec-trac is obviously the better choice. I haven't noticed the front sliding around much in the snow, but I don't take turns very fast either. I don't drive any differently in 4X4 than I do in 4X2 so that helps. I also tend to leave it in 4X2 unless the snow is really deep, then shift in when I really need traction. The rear wheels seem to do an excellent job by themselves for the most part. The solid front axle also contributes to the Jeeps steering issues.

bblaha · February 2001

rrhobbs: Sorry, I can't help you since I haven't owned a Cherokee that old so don't know what sort of aches and pains it eventually ends up with. I would visit the following 2 sites where you may find someone who can:

http://www.jeepsunlimited.com

http://www.naxja.org

Both of these sites are filled with Jeep enthusiasts who subscribe to the philosophy "Jeeps are built, not bought" and know the mechanics inside and out.

rinfantino: Jeeps tend to accumulate numerous "non-serious" problems rather than any serious ones (serious to me mean safety, engine, or transmission problems). Since you have a 4 dr, you aren;t likely to face the broken weld problem. The rear leafs will sag over time, accelerated by alot of towing. 97 was the update year, and I think one of the changes was a more standardized electrical bus. There may have been some sort of a problem there, but I'm not sure. Anyway, congratulations on staying with Jeep!

Dane5:

How much weight did you have in back? Cherokees have bumbers (in both the front and rear) to limit the amount of travel the springs are forced to endure. Most likely, particularly with some weight in the back, the jolt you were experiencing was hitting those. If you remove one of the rear tires, you should see it bolted to the frame rail above the axle.

If they complain about the rough ride, tell them they are welcome to bring their Lexus the next time. :-)

green20:

In addition to what sebring has said, I want to point out that even if the front wheels have to slide, they don't actually "lose" traction, its merely reduced (the difference between static and dynamic friction coefficients). Even sliding, the front wheels are still pulling the front end around in the direction you want it to go.

I'm a little bit curious to know what kind of 4x4 setup you were previously driving (ie, limited slips where?), because I'm not exactly sure what you mean when you say "4x4s I drove in the past added traction in turns."

4wd doesn't "add traction". Friction between the tires and the ground does that. 4wd, in all its various setups, merely determines where power is delivered.

blachnis · February 2001

I just bought a Jeep Cherokee 2001 model with a on command 4WD system.
>I am having problems when I try to engage 4WD LOW when a truck is fully
>stopped.
>The manual says that 4WD LOW needs to be engaged while a truck is moving
>at 3 mph but what if for instance I am stuck in a mud and I cannot move
>a truck - I cannot engage 4 WD LOW?
>The manual says that it may work but since gears are not lined up the
>procedure needs to be repeated couple of times.
>I tried couple of times but I am afraid that I may damage the system.
>

sebring95 · February 2001

4lo is tricky in an automatic, plain and simple. You still can get it in if you are stuck, just give it some gas in lieu of vehicle movement. The drivetrain is what has to move. In addition, I don't see how 4lo would help in that situation. I've done alot of muddy off-roading and I've never felt 4lo helped get out of a mud hole. 4lo is more for controlling vehicle speed up/down steep hills. I used it alot more in my manual tranny vehicles to avoid frying the clutch climbing over trees, rocks, steep obstacles. 4lo does not change the application of traction, just how the power is delivered.

bblaha · February 2001

A question and a suggestion:

First, you are aware that you don't come straight back to 4lo right? Once you get to 4hi, you have to pull the lever to the right and then back. Were you doing this?

Second, along the lines of what Sebring says, I often find its easier to get it into 4lo while stopped by putting the transmission in neutral.

drew_ · February 2001

"4wd doesn't "add traction". Friction between the tires and the ground does that. 4wd, in all its various setups, merely determines where power is delivered."

I respectfully disagree with the above. According to my dictionary, traction is "the act of drawing or pulling, especially the drawing of a vehicle or load over a surface by motor power." Tires do not push or pull a vehicle over a surface. The drive wheels do. If you have extra two drive wheels, you have about twice the amount of traction. Without the extra drive wheels, traction of the front wheels is only used up by the lateral force and much of it goes to waste.

You may be interested in these two links (one of which also describes the benefit of full-time/permanent 4WD on all road surfaces):
http://www.4x4abc.com/4WD101/tractionturn2.html

http://www.4x4abc.com/4WD101/tractionturn4.html

Drew
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bblaha · February 2001

Far be it from me to argue with a dictionary but I think you should have used the one offered at the 4x4ABC site you posted. ;-)

Excellent site btw. The concepts are right on.

That's why I was interested in what sort of 4wd system he was driving though. Although I stand by "4wd doesn't add traction", it does possibly distribute torque from a wheel that has lost (or reduced) traction to a wheel that hasn't, keeping you moving.

monkfishstew · February 2001

HAs anyone ever heard of any manufacturer problems with the transfer case leaking on the cherokee sport? Mine was bone dry after having the transmission fluid changed twice before 25,000 miles.The dealer says he can't find any leaks. We had been running on dry for weeks and now it's shot. The dealer says lack of maintenance, but this is leased and should be under warranty. Right?

paul_jes · February 2001

I have 96 Cherokee sport with automatic transmission. Sometimes I have feel a clunk in the drive train when the car first starts. the dealer tells me this normal and that this is caused from the drive shaft moving in the transfer case? Does anyone know of a fix for this problem?

mhall02 · February 2001

Monkfishstew,
My 2000 Cherokee Sport had a transfer case leak upon arrival, (we ordered it). The first week I happened to notice the drips on the ground, got underneath and looked and saw the fluid on the bottom of the transfer case, took it in and the Five-Star dealer fixed it quickly and topped it off with no hassles. No more drips and we have had it for 28,000 miles now. That is not the first transfer case I have heard of being ruined by running out of fluid, a lady here in our building had a Cherokee Country and she had the same thing happen, no fluid in the transfer case and it was ruined.

sasquatch_2000 · February 2001

I tested out a 99 Cherokee, and my knees were hitting the steering wheel(yes, it was adjusted correctly). It is a shame too, because I like the engine, the looks, the utility, and the 4x4 of the JEEP. I then test drove a 99 Bravada, which I fit in much better, and it had plenty of power as well. Not my favorite color, but a nice, nice vehicle. My question is whether there are any options for moving/lowering seats. I am 6'1", 235 #. Also, can you get these with front bench seats? Last, what are the biggest tires you can get on with stock shocks/springs? How about a 2" suspension lift? 265/75R15 out of the question?

jeremybear · February 2001

I am thinking of buying a Cherokee before it is being discontinued. I have one question now: are there any modification to get some rear seat headrests? Any after market accessories?
Thanks in advance.

catnip2377 · February 2001

Then Sign this petition:

http://www.petitiononline.com/hds2/petition.html

wmes · February 2001

Closed on a 2dr 2wd Cherokee Sport tonight, Feb 14th.
5-spd manual, sport value group, and speed control.
Paid $15,788 + TTL ($1198 in Tx) = $16,966 total

This vehicle had been on the lot for 5 months and had 950 miles on it (dealership gave a written statement that the jeep had no repair work done, was not driven for personal use by anyone, and did not spend time on any other lot). Could find no quality flaws in a through test drive. Using Edmund's invoice prices for the Sport and assuming a $1500 rebate and $1000 dealer incentive, the dealership only made $66 dollars + holdback on the vehicle. But if for some reason Edmund's invoice prices for the SE apply, then the dealer made a reasonable $939 profit + holdback.

Either way, I'm happy with the purchase (assuming I don't get bit by disaster as did others in this forum).
I just can't help being suspicious of things that seem too good to be true...

sebring95 · February 2001

Only problem is if you ever go to sell it. It set on the lot for 5-months, plus it's obvious to most that a 2-door, manual tranny, 2wd Jeep never has very good resale value. I paid about $4500 more for a 4x4 4-door automatic with several more options. A relative of mine just bought a 99 2wd F-350 that was brand new. Sat on the lot almost 3 years, so how well do you think that will resell? Doesn't apply if you keep it 7-10 years. If noone wants something new even with heavy discounts, it's gonna be hard to sell used for sure.

wmes · February 2001

I agree with the points you (sebring95) made in post 75... Manual transmissions generally bring resale value down. And the 2dr, 2wd manuals were rarely found on any of the lots I visited. But I have a personal preference for a manual transmission and hope to keep this vehicle for it's entire life.

Given the reputation Jeep drivers have, I'm a little surprised that there isn't more of a demand for 5-spd manual transmissions. But I'll count myself lucky that I found a dealer who had what I wanted and was apparently anxious to sell it.

bblaha · February 2001

I'm not sure the demand for manuals isn't pretty high. The problem is, at least in the last few years, Jeep wasn't supplying them. I wanted a manual, but ended up getting an auto because I could find one...

meitzler · February 2001

I have a 1985 JEEP cheroke that i bought new and still have it . i put a 350 chev eng in it eats up gas but runs great. does anyone else have a older cherokee?.

eagan · February 2001

Hey everyone,

im loking at buying a new cherokee sport for my son and I am trying to figure out a good price for the jeep. we will wait until the new liberty's come out to get the new deal but we aren't sure when that will be..so thats my #1 question:does anyone know when the liberty is going to be released to dealer lots? also, the msrp for the jeep we have picked out is 23,600...so i was figurng on paying 19,500 after the 2,000 rebate from daimler/chrysler. so thats my #2 question: Is 19,500 a reasonable price for a cherokee with a 23,600 msrp price..in other words will i be looked at as if i have 20million heads if i say 19,500??? id appreciate any info/opinions that anyone has..thanks

sebring95 · February 2001

My 01 had a sticker of $$25,000 and I paid $20,700. I believe the deal was $300 over invoice, plus I got $1500 rebate and $1000 dealer cash. Something close to that anyway, it was back in December.

rubes · February 2001

I have a '97 Cherokee and I feel a shudder come from the rear end when I take off from a dead stop. But, if I let the car coast 1-2 feet after releasing the brake, the shudder does not occur. Also, if I let the car creep (with foot on brake), the car shudders back and forth. I've taken this to the dealer *3* times (the 3rd time they acknowledged feeling the shudder). But, since this was not a "safety" issue, they don't know how to fix it. Technician says his wife's Cherokee does the same thing.

HAS ANYONE EXPERIENCED THIS?

eagan · February 2001

ok thanks a lot. i guess i'd be pretty reasonable then saying 19,500. we will see. does anyone know what (if any) rebates will be offered by D/C after the current ones expire in early april? any thoughts on wether it will be more/less of an incentive?? thanks in advance for any opinions.

dfortes · February 2001

Hello everyone,

A couple of weeks ago I traded in my 2dr Manual 99' sport for a 2000 4dr auto selectrac sport. I really like it except for one thing the gas mileage. With the manual my gas mileage was about 18mpg on average. With the auto transmission on a trip this weeked I got 130 miles to half a tank.....13mpg (travelling at around 75mph). Is this right? I asked the dealer to check the the diagnostic and they say its fine. I'm going to try it out for a couple more weeks and see how it goes but it really seems to be eating gas compared to the manual I had (and according to stats there really is a minimal diff between the gas mileage on the two transmissions). Can anyone let me know if this is to be expected or is it abnormal. I do miss my manual transmission though. It was much smoother at higher speeds as the auto makes a little back ground noise on the highway.

Another question when using full time.......does the 55mph speed limit still apply. Thanks.

bblaha · February 2001

Hold off on any mileage comparisons until you have a number of miles. I believe your computer is "learning" how you drive.

I have a 97 (command-trac) and I get mid 19s at a 20/80 (city/highway) mix of driving. Occasionally do better than 20mpg and have gotten as high as 24 (very atypical) on a pure interstate tank (probably included both a tailwind and an overall drop in elevation).

The 55 mph is for changing into 4wd, so yes it still applies.

dfortes · February 2001

Bblaha,

Thanks for the feedback. I neglected to mention though that the 2000 I got was used. It has 10,000 miles on it. I am assuming the computer would already have had time to make its adjustments (to the previous owner) unless its now adjusting to my driving style. Does this sound plausible......(are jeep auto transmissions this sophisticated?)

Also I do understand that the 55mph is for shifting into 4wd but once I am into fulltime can I still travel at highway speeds on say rainy wet roads? Or do I need to be below 55mph even if I am using fulltime?

(pardon my ignorance......this is the first auto trans. I have owned and the 4wd systems I have had contact with in Africa still require you to get out of the car and lock the hubs)

Thanks again

d

sebring95 · February 2001

I really doubt they will drop the incentives and I also doubt they will add any. I'm totally speculating, but I don't think they will have any trouble moving the remaining Cherokees. I bought mine for several reasons, number one being this is the last small SUV that's both capable AND able to Tow. I don't know where the Liberty is going to be rated for Towing, but that new engine isn't going to have the Torque of the 4.0L and that's what makes it tow so well. Of course if towing isn't your bag, then it doesn't matter, but there are plenty of people that use their Cherokees and will probably be trading up to get the last new one they can. If you know you want a Cherokee you may want to get one now, because it will be harder to find what you want unless you just want the basic package.

I wanted the Tow Group, Up-Country, and other small misc. options in Sienna (dark red). They searched a 300 mile radius and found 9 that color with the tow group, but none had the up-country and none had ALL the misc. options I wanted. Only one Jeep (any color) in that radius had all the options I wanted and it was bright red (pass).

eagan · February 2001

thanks for the info. we figured they would keep the incentive at the same rate but i just wondered because it ended in april which is about a month before my sons birthday. i dont think we will get many options... just the sport value package, 4 wheel ABS, manual trans, and maybe the tow package if it happens to be on one we like. We really want a patriot blue one and that seems to be a popular color left on the lots so I guess we will just keep a look out for any good deals. thanks again for the advice.

sebring95 · February 2001

Have you actually seen any manual tranny cherokees? From what I've seen/heard they are very rare. ABS also wasn't very common sitting on the lot. I think only a couple out of maybe 60 different searched vehicles I compared had ABS. I think finding a manual tranny with ABS is going to be SUPER hard, maybe impossible. I can't imagine a dealer ordering an $800 option on a "base" vehicle. You may have to order if that's the way you want it. I'd talk to a dealer now because I don't know how long production is going to continue.

The nice thing about the tow package is you not only get the hitch/wiring but also heavy duty engine/tranny cooling. Considering some places would charge just as much for an installed hitch, it's a heckuva deal.

Patriot was my second choice and I like them both equally. But when I found how rare the Sienna was I was stuck on it. You pass yourself all the time in a Cherokee as it is, so it's nice to at least be a little different, LOL! Except mines usually covered in mud/salt. I've done 8,000 miles in two months.

eagan · February 2001

wow sounds like u really like your cherokee. I can't wait to get one. i made a mistake on my earlier post, i meant we wanted auto transmission, I have heard how almost impossible it is to find ANY manual trans. the options i listed are just considerations. we really just want the sport value package..anything else is extra. we could use the tow package but its no biggie if its not on the jeep. we passed a local dealership today and they still have loads of them on the lot. my son can't wait to go pick one out. i just hope we don't get one with any problems. i have read all the posts on this forum and some people sound like they are just stuck with horrible cars. thats really a shame because i have heard a lot of good things about the cherokee.

sebring95 · February 2001

caused I figured you were up the creek wanting a manual. I'm pretty much a Toyota only guy, but didn't really think twice about the Cherokee. Pretty sloppy fit & finish (downright terrible compared to a yota) but it's a pretty tough well engineered vehicle for utility. Once the weather breaks I'll switch back to traveling in my Camry, but for the $$ the Jeeps a heckuva deal.

peshleman1 · February 2001

After one year and 10,000 miles my jeep cherokee has been excellant. No problems at all. Special ordered it with up-country and tow package. Havn`t had any of the vibration problems that I read about on other posts. Excellant offroad for a stock rig. Towed a 15 foot camping trailer numerous times and it handled it very well. Ran it over numerous jeep trails in the pryor mountains in southern MT and it performed great! would probably go 98 percent of the places my locker equiped IH scout would go although I wouldn`t want to abuse a 20,000 dollar rig like that. I`m talking about reel jeep trails where 4 low is mandatory not those forest service roads you yuppies drive your mini vans on. After all this is a SPORT UTILITY. A rig that was made to go offroad. The ride is trucklike on the highway but thats how I expect it. After all this is a rig that is made to go offroad! My opinion of the jeep cherokee....Its a workhorse on and offroad. It might not ride on the highway like those real expensive SUVs but I don`t care. When I`m ready to hit the trail I no this thing has the balls to do it. You yuppies don`t go 4 wheeling anyway all you need is a rig to get you to the nearest golf course and impress your yuppie friends! So buy the luxury SUVs and the foreign crap and leave the jeeps to the people who use them the way they are supposed to be used. It`s to bad they are not gonna make the cherokee anymore. It is the last of the real 4 wheel drives. So if you want a real 4 wheel drive you don`t have much time. Get one while you can. I`m glad I did!!!!!!

yettibutt · February 2001

i purchased a 2000 sienna 4 door 4WD last september, had the factory fog lights, tinted windows and sport value group. sticker was about 24,500, i paid 19,100 with the 1500 cash incentive. i told him what i would pay and he said ok. it was a 20 minute deal, last 2000 on the lot. had a few minor rattles etc. (its american, what do you expect) that are being fixed tommorow as well as my rotors warping, which apparently is a common issure with these. otherwise, i really like it!

jrtx · February 2001

My Cherokee was almost mortally wounded. Let me say first that my 17 year old son was driving and he was not injured other than a couple of minor bumps and bruises. Also, before anybody jumps to conclusions, it was not his fault and he was driving in a safe manner. The driver of the Grand Am was an elderly lady who was legally blind.

The Accident

My son was going through an intersection (freeway underpass) and a Pontiac Grand Am ran a red light on the frontage road and broadsided him at about 40 mph. I have an accurate description since a police office witnessed the accident. The car struck the Jeep on the right rear axle and drove under it. This pitched the rear end of the Jeep airborne and in a clockwise spin at the same time. The Jeep contacted the ground (upside down facing the opposite direction) on the left front fender and left front corner of the roof. It proceded to roll onto the left side (while spinning clockwise) and rolled back onto all fours (like a good cat, always lands on its feet).

The Damage -
Grand Am - totaled, engine pushed into firewall about 6 inches, car now much shorter.

Jeep

Right Side - right rear door and quarter had moderate damage, the axle took most of the blow. Axle OK, wheels not bent.

Left Side - Entire left side damage, mirror and fender trim amazingly still intact.

Roof - Damaged on left front from impact with ground. No roof crush at all.

Glass - Upper left corner shattered on windshield. All other glass intact.

Liftgate - Fiberglass damaged on left edge, taillights intact, but left one scraped.

Other - Left wheel rims replaced because edges scraped the ground. All tires replaced. The suspension alignment was still true and required no adjustment. Drives as good a new. No frame damage either.

The total - It cost the insurance $10,800 to put the Jeep back together. All sheet metal replaced except hood, right front fender, cowl and right front door, complete repaint.

I have a newfound respect for the way Jeep builds the Cherokee.

bblaha · February 2001

Your description is excellent. I can visualize exactly what happened. I wonder if its worthwhile theorizing what would have happened had the rear been IRS...?

Its a good thing your son wasn't injured (badly). How did the elderly lady fare?

Sounds like your XJ is back on the road? Does this mean its too late to send it a get well card? :-)

jrtx · February 2001

I believe an IRS would have allowed substantial penitration into the passenger compartment.

He had a scrape on his back from the seatback and a bruise on his left cheek where his bible (sitting in right front seat) hit him. He actually was driving home from church after dropping his girlfriend off. I let him take my Cherokee on Sunday instead of his.

The elderlady was fine, she did have three kids in the car, but all were belted (and in the back)and airbags went off ok.

XJ back on road, took about three weeks. BTW, that slight whine I had in the diff when I let off the gas is gone now.

All is ok now, work finally slowed down enough to have time to post something.

bblaha · February 2001

Yeah. Besides helping maintain the structure shape, the solid axle also broke the driver side rear wheel free instantly, letting it spin.

Glad to know the story doesn't have any real tragedy to it.

Oh, and I guess people should beware of flying bibles....

:-)

jrtx · February 2001

I scanned some of the Jeep pics for you.

http://community.webshots.com/user/jrtx

bblaha · February 2001

Hmmmm. You know, its almost hard to tell where the point of impact was. I'm surprised the rear isn't more caved in.

The A-pillar looks like it held up pretty well too.

Lots of dinged metal (and scuffs) but the shape is held well for a vehicle that was Tboned, flipped onto its head and rolled back onto its feet.

jrtx · February 2001

When I got that dreaded phone call that no parent wants to get they said he was involved in a rollover. They drove the Jeep into a parking lot after the accident and from a distance I could not tell it had rolled. I would like to see how one of the cute-utes would have held up.

bblaha · February 2001

It is remarkable how preserved it was. And I have a hard time getting past the fact that there was more damage on the left side than on the right, the collision side.

Maybe I'll go over to the "Jeep Liberty" forum and argue the benefit of solid axles for safety reasons to rsholland, my "sparring" partner over there.

bblaha · February 2001

Sorry I must have missed this:
dfortes Feb 23, 2001 10:49pm

Well, if its got 10000 miles then thats a different thing. Has it been modified any? What is the temperature when you've been driving for awhile? Jeeps run fuel rich at cooler temperatures (below 185 degrees I think), so if someone has modified things so that the coolant never gets above that, you'll get really bad mileage.

Also, are the tires stock size?

I don't see anything that would prevent you from driving faster than 55 while in 4wd fulltime, other than if you really need 4wd you probably shouldn't be driving that fast anyway. The front driveshaft is chain driven, you slow down to insure the chain engages properly while going into/out of 4wd.

parsons3 · March 2001

99 jeep Cherokee sport, 26 j, w/ cruise, 89,000 miles. lease is up in three weeks and I'll probably have 92,000 give or take. oil changed every 3-4000 miles, differentials,transfer case have been drained and filled 3 or 4 times, master brake cylinder replaced at 42,000 miles, and i just had front rotors turned and new pads. all highway miles and she runs and looks fine so, should i walk at the end or purchase? prepaid 84,000 miles. buy out is 9340

Jeep Cherokee

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