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Well, looking into something ELSE, I found out about the aforementioned! They were made by "Fairway Coach" Of Ontario, Canada. Some were sent back into America, but that # is unknown. Also unknown is how many years they made them, nor in total how many were made.
I came across a photo of one, with just about 15 words under the picture about it.
Hopefully, those who were interested in it, are still among us!!
I am at my wits end with my 1993 4WD sport. I have had it to two different shops trying to figure out why it is overheating, had the thermostat replaced twice, and now it's even hotter than it used to be. The dealer's shop said the first shop didn't put in an actual Jeep thermostat, but the dealer's seems to be worse! I should say that it hasn't ever actually overheated, but it's come really close to the red line on the gauge. The air works just fine, as does the heat and fan. Just about everything has been replaced on this vehicle since I've had it - it seems like the interior and the engine are the only original parts left. If any of you have tips on what the heck to do with my little lemon (other than trade it in or burn it), please help! Thanks so much.
Also, my tires are 37k and wobble so bad I cannot drive above 50mph. Goodyear dealer checked them out and said nothing was wrong. Again, neither the Goodyear or car dealer will replace anything. Way to stand behind their product!
Lately it has been surgining when you hit a bump in the road.
The speedometer jumps, the check engine light comes on momentarily. It feels like you are being pushed from behind and then everything goes back to normal. If the cruise control is on, it turns off.
Anyone have any ideas before I spend money at the mechanic's place ???
If (and when) my rotors go again I'll replace them with a good aftermarket rotor. I'd try another dealership and if you can't get any satisfaction, go after DC. There is a TSB out for earlier model Cherokees that might help. The worst that can happen is you pay $100 for some aftermarket rotors and no longer deal with the dealership for brakes.
Goodyear Wrangler RT/S suck. I just recently swapped mine for Michelin LTX-AT and they are an all-terrain tire (the goodyears are highway tires) and they do everything better than the Goodyears. No vibration problems coming up on 10K miles on them. If you don't need an all-terrain, the Michelin LTX-MS are similar to the Goodyear RT/S in terms of traction, but are MUCH more comfortable and better in every way. I don't see where you're going to get much satisfaction from the Goodyear dealer unless you have an obviously faulty tire. On the balancer, mine looked fine, but on the vehicle they vibrated like crazy no matter how they were rotated. With the Michelins I have absolutely zero steering wheel vibration, and everything else is smooth as glass as well. Jeep probably could have sold 5X as many Cherokees just by putting good tires on in the first place. It rides, handles, brakes, and runs soooo much better just with a marginally more expensive set of tires.
1. For a 1997 Cherokee Sport with the "up-country" suspension package, what set of new shocks are the overall best? Or even, if there is more than one style to choose from, just want some feedback from those who have replaced their shocks lately. Although I only have 49K miles, I think they are toast due to age....
2. Same vehicle -- anyone had to replace the throttle position sensor (TPS)? Or the idle actuator valve (or stepper motor)? I have a manual trans. and when you let off the gas quickly and let it go on back-pressure (no clutch), it sometimes won't kick down the idle, and will idle at between 1200 and about 2000 rpm. You can clear it by simply tapping on the pedal. Sometimes the check engine light comes on and the code says its the TPS, but I think many things could affect the way it idles. Hate to start throwing parts at it.
3. Next, the OBD-II also has had a code for the manifold absolute pressure (MAP) sensor from time to time, usually after long periods of back pressure coming down long mountain roads (both dirt and paved). It seems to self-clear after a few days, but was wondering if the MAP sensor can be "slightly" bad. It's done this since it was basically new...
4. Finally, has anyone had their 4WD shift linkage rattle alot. It sounds like the transfer case is falling apart, but I can usually stop the sound by holding the 4WD shift lever up a little bit. Is there any way to tighten this or replace bushings to quiet it back down. Addionally, it sure seems like the drive-train is getting more and more noisy in this jeep...especially when in overdrive.
Thanks much for any input; Bret...
Found that there are several companies that offer a Jeep Cooling system solution, in once case offering a bored out thermostat housing and a 180 degree thermostat for $39, all the way up to a GDI 3 row radiator, with combo tranny/oil cooler and dual electric fans for around $400
I've replaced the thermostat (author note: DO NOT overtighten the thermostat housing or that cracking sound you heard will cost you an additional $30 at Autozone) to no avail, and will be replacing the radiator with the GDI model.
If you go back and read the history of posts here you'll several related to the engine running hot.
I promptly added a Class III hitch and pulled a Ski-Centurion 21 foot ski boat around with it until I bought a Silverado last year.
In all that time, even pulling on long trips, the temp always has stayed at 210. Only on the hottest days pulling up hills did I see the temp climb to maybe 230 max. But this was like one or two times and I had the A/C on because it was about 100 degrees outside in southern Utah. Other than that, the temp is always pegged at 210. It sounds to me like they should have made this cooling system stock. Does anyone know what the difference is between the two stock cooling systems? Also, is it harder to keep an auto cool versus a standard?
PS - regarding my post #712 above, I just ordered four Ranco RSX shocks. Has anyone put these on a Cherokee? I'll put my feedback up here when I've got them on....
http://www.auto-parts-direct.com/jeep.htm
They can get anything Mopar makes for less than the dealer price.
I'm having major problems with my 95 Cherokee Sport. It's been in 3 different shops & now it's at the dealer because no one can seem to find the problem. For the past month or so, it randomly stalls out while I am driving. Or I can be at a stoplight & when I step on the gas to go, I lose all power & the wheel locks up. It's scary - the other day, I was merging onto the interstate (probably only going about 45mph) & the RPM gauge fell all the way to 0 & the car just stopped running. Even when I'm at high speeds, the engine misses and stumbles and it seems like the RPM gauge is all over the place. Recently had major tuneup (spark plugs, wires, hoses, distributor cap, rotor button ...) & fuel injection flushed. Everyone seems to think the problem is fuel-related but no one knows exactly what ... very frustrating. The dealer even seems to be at a loss. I'm beginning to lose my faith in Jeeps & mechanics ... can someone help???
Naxja
Both are very good resources (naxja more for technical quesitons)
BTW, I have a '93 Cherokee Sport with the 4.0 L and 5 speed. Over 170,000 mi. and it's been bullet proof--the most reliable car I've ever owned, including a Honda Accord. Engine still as strong as the day I got it. Actually feels stronger. Wish they still made it, or at least put the 5-speed into the GC. Don't like the Liberty. Too cutesy.
Jim
My '98 Cherokee also stalls and misses, but only on the highway after I've driven about 100 miles. It's in the shop right now, but the dealer can't figure out what's wrong. Did you ever find out what was causing you Jeep to stall and miss? My problem sounds a lot like yours, but the electricial system doesn't shut off. The radio and AC stay on, but the engine dies. I had my crank shaft sensor replaced. That helped for a while, but the problem keeps occurring. I'm afraid to go out of town. It died while I was trying to merge onto the interstate.
Help!
A contact of ours is looking for a group of luxury SUV enthusiasts who would be willing to come to Irvine, CA August 24th from 9am to 3pm for a test drive, focus group and lunch. Participants will be compensated for their time. If you are interested in participating in this event, please send an email with your contact information as well as the model vehicle you drive to: chotti@earthlink.net.
Thanks for your consideration!
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BTW, both the Haynes and FSM don't mention ever checking the timing chain but the FSM only goes up to 120k miles and the Haynes uses 30k mile intervals to check the same things.
Thoughts?
My 1997 Sport has 50K miles and I've never checked it, and don't plan to unless it breaks or I hit 150K miles, or stops running well.
BTW - vin weasel - I did lose my rear main seal at about 30K miles. Pissed me off quite a bit, just barely got it in under my 36 month warranty - I had to teach the dealer how to know it was the rear main seal. They tried to tell me it was engine "sweat". Dealers are idiots. I think this could have been caused from pulling a boat with it a lot, increasing crank case pressure, and eventually blowing out the seal.
Installed Rancho RSX shocks a few weeks ago. They seem OK, still rides rough, but handles large obstacles on mountain roads very well. Still sucks at washboards - can't even control it. But I think that is the case will all Cherokees - my friends Civic could outdrive the crap out of me on 40 miles of dirt road washboards. It must be soft enough to keep the wheels on the ground - unlike my Cherokee....
My first real experience with washboard in the Jeep was coming home one night on a gravel road going about 90km/h. I hit some big washboard and the vehicle went sideways on me. I quickly regained control and slowed down. I've never had a vehicle do that to me before, but then again I never had a Solid Axle Jeep. I know now to avoid the rough stuff at high speed or to at least slow down a bunch. I think softer valved shocks, like Old Man Emu, might help lessen the effects or maybe the adjustible Ranchos. I have no problems going at speed down some of the forest trails. The vehicle eats up the larger bumps fairly well and I never feel like I'm loosing control.
1997 Sport 4x4 5sp. There was engine oil dripping down the bell housing. Just enough to make a drip in the driveway evey now and then. I think most of it was blowing off while driving, but that area was always "wet". I never lost enough between oil changes to even add oil, but I don't like to own vehicles that drip oil.....plus I got it in under warranty. I really don't think you could have tranny fluid leak down the front of the bell housing. It's just too far in front of the tranny box (at least on the 5 sp.).
More washboards: Same deal, it'll walk sideways and you'll loose some control until you are off of the bumps or off the road and rolled! I think it's a Jeep thing, a combination of stiff suspension, stiff shocks, short wheelbase and solid front axle. My Rancho RSX shocks are auto-adjustable, but perhaps the 9000 series fully manual adjustable shocks would help - you can make them really soft or really stiff. Like you said, it does fine on larger more isolated bumps and rocks, but those washboards make the whole Jeep go into some sort of resonant oscillation - sucks....
vanleighton:
Mileage - I have every tank of gas documented since it was new, but have only added up the statistics for the first four years (97 to 01). My driving is 80% very short (1-3) mile trips to and from work and 20% actually highway trips. About 7% would be pulling a boat as well, so that will bring the averages down some. Also, keep in mind it is a 5 speed tranny:
Total average for four years all conditions is 17.01 mpg with a standard deviation of 2.47 mpg. Best mileage tank of gas was 22.4 mpg (of course with no boat and all highway miles). Worst mileage tank of gas was 9.8 mpg (all pulling a boat with a lot of hills). Also, I live at about 4500 feet elevation which may be why I never see this 24 mpg stuff that people talk of. I just can't believe anyone gets 24 mpg out of that 4.0 L engine!!!! You are lucky...
Hope this helps.
The funny thing is, and I've heard this from quite a few XJ owners, is that your mileage will improve as the Jeep ages. Mine has gone up considerably ( a couple mpg) from when it was new to about 18k km (when I switched to synthetic and the K&N.
Ok - found my stuff - this option adds the following:
1. Fuel tank / transfer case / front suspension skid plates. But - you could be deceived here, because these skid plates are an option all on their own.
2. Trac-lok differential (limited slip). Unlike a posi, you can't simply jack up the back and turn one rear wheel and see if the other will turn the same direction. With the limited slip, they will turn opposite directions like a conventional axle hanging in the air. Perhaps others have an easy way to see if it has the limited slip.
3. Upgraded engine cooling system - again, not sure how you tell as I've not really looked at any other Cherokee but mine. My guess is that this upgrade also comes as part of the tow package too - so you could be deceived as well on this one.
4. Full size spare tire.
5. Front / rear tow hooks.
6. Off highway increased height suspension (I think it's about 3/4" to 1" higher than without) - may be hard to notice.
7. You're supposed to see a liftgate mounted "Up Country" decal, but mine never had that - nor have I ever seen one - ever. So not sure if that is real or what.
Overall - I'm sort of pissed becasue Edmunds does not have this option when you go to figure out how much your Cherokee is worth, but the option retailed for $835.00 and you can't even add that to the vehicle value on this site.
Anyway - hope it helps, but sounds hard to me to tell for sure if you're getting it.