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But, as an adult married man it's very difficult to live on $75.00 (gross) a week, unless you're in a cardboard box, under a bridge somewhere. If you wanna make $$ in the car business, get thee to a Toyota dealership. Those things sell themselves, and you'll have an easier time and make more money too. Go to one on "the highway" in a lower income area and learn all you can about financing, or the oppisite extreme, Mercedes in a wealthy area. This will also involve learning to play golf and joining a country club! The mark-up on a Mercedes is $6,000. You do the math.........
and....Best of Luck!
If & when you get sick of it, you can do what I did....Buy a Dunkin Donuts. The mark-up on a donut is (percentage-wise) double that of a car! and they stand in line waiting FOR YOU! $1.25 for a cup of coffee that nets you $1.05 profit.
If you stay with cars, don't cheat your customers, you'll never get a referral or a repeat customer, and therefore you'll not build a customer base, worthy of 1 cent. Be honest, give them a decent deal, and don't let them take advantage of you. If they get fresh to you, walk away from them, telling them "If you will not respect me, then go elsewhere" PERIOD.
Steve
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DAIMLER-Cry-slur is no better at designing a tough sport ute than DODGE would be at designing a $165,000 car! Dodge might be better!
All we need is someone with some cash to set up an importing business to bring in the slightly modified ones they are now building in China (http://www.beijing-jeep.com/english/index.html) Too bad a North American company didn't buy the tooling and start producing them.
It's hard to accept the cancellation of such a good selling, reliable vehicle that had all the tooling and factories paid for (and was making tons of profit for DC) just to produce something that "seems" to fit the market image better. If they would have done one more upgrade to the XJ including a rear coil suspension, a split rear seat with headrests and maybe a little more rear seat room they would have a contending vehicle for way less than the cost of producing the Liberty. Plus they should never have gotten rid of the 4.0 I6 in this class of vehicle. A simple, proven engine that nearly equals the 3.7 and offers more low end. I just hope someone up at DC eventually offers the 4.7 in the KJ.
There....that's just about purr-fect!
arlodog: if you can pick up the same vehicle for $1900 less I'd give that baby back and get the other one. Knowledge of the prior vehicle isn't worth that much. Maybe a grand, max. I bought a Tahoe on the 0% for 36 month deal back in July. New vehicles are selling like hotcakes now. We decided to sell our Galant and when talking to the salesman we bought it from, he said he's sold one used vehicle this month. This is a rather large dealer and this salesman has been there for nearly 10 years so he's no slouch. Delivering new cars like crazy, used ones are just piling up. I may just keep the car if I'm going to take a bath on it. The thing many people don't realize is that if they are trading, they are getting killed on the trade-in value, so the actual savings are negligible.
The bottom line seems to me that the Cherokee was replaced not because it didn't have consumer demand, but because it was veiwed by management as not being what the consumer wanted in a vehicle.
sigh
The Cherokee is gone.
grin
At least I still own one.
You're totally right sebring. After 10 years (and 200k+ miles) you might have to replace a gasket or two in the engine or maybe have to do a rebuild but that's just the perfect reason to get a stroker (www.accuratepower.com). Then you could have a 4.7L in the XJ...
I found the same thing with VW. I had an '87 that I put 360k km on in 5 years with nothing to fix but a valve cover gasket ($20) and a '93 Passat that cost me $3000 in repairs in one year for electronics and 'minor' items.
I have a Cherokee Classic 2000 equipped with the keyless entry system.
When I use the remote to unlock the doors, it unlocks all four doors but the liftgate remains locked.
If all doors and the liftgate are unlocked and I use the remote to lock the doors, all doors lock up but the liftgate remains unlocked.
When I tried this, I can hear the mechanism engaging behind the liftgate lock, but the state of the lock remains unchanged.
Does anyone know if the remote is supposed to lock/unlock the liftgate?
Please help.
Yesterday I have taken the Jeep to the dealership to have the master shield re-applied.
If it is done every three years, DC offers a lifetime warranty on all body panels.
I have mentioned the lift-gate problem, and the service advisor said that the remote should not open the lift-gate lock.
When I insisted, knowing from you guys that it should work, the service advisor checked with the service manager and acknowledged the problem.
The remedy was, and I quote from the work order, "repaired spread terminal to rear actuator".
There was no cost for the repair, still under warranty, but the master shield cost was 115$.
Thanks again.
I would change the oil pump just for peace of mind. You may have a bit of junk in the oil pan and it may be blocking the oil pickup a little bit. If it blocks it enough,...........
It's a bit of a pain to get the oil pan off but if it was me, I'd change it. Make sure you have a torque wrench to reinstall the oil pan.
Also, I flushed the radiator. Does anyone know of a way to get to the petcock without removing the headlamp surrounds, grille, and turn signal? If so, let me know. That was a bit of a pain.
Pete
You buy your Jeep from ABC Jeep. They treated you right during the sale and you have found their service to be very good! Suddenly, the place is sold, new owners come in & fire all of the folks you delt with, from the guy in parts to your service writer, your salesperson, the Asst. sales manager, and the tech who usually worked on your Jeep. The new people seem nasty to the "old dealer's customers" ~ They seem to bend over for the new customers, who have bought a car from THEM. We are the "old" dealer'sa customers....
This is what I fear, as my wonderful dealership of a great salesmen, great service advisor and great parts guy, have all jumped ship, so to speak, because of who bought the place.....and nobodys talking about WHo the Who is.....
http://www.rocky-road.com/xjipf.html
I do not want to spend the time upgrading my wiring, so I would most likely go with the 55/60W or the Magic J-Bulbs. If anyone has any experience with these, please let me know what you think.
I have a 2001 Cherokee Sport with 13,700 miles on it and, unbelievably, the stock Goodyears are just about shot. I was interested in going up 1 size to 235's for my next set of tires.
Will the larger sized tires rub? Someone told me that the larger tire will rub unless the sway bars are removed and/or the truck is lifted.
Can anyone help? Thanks
I had the same tires on my '01 and they lasted to about 35K miles but I hated them from day one. Terrible tires! I went with Michelin LTX-AT which is a more aggresive tread than those Goodyears. The Michelins ride, handle, and are MUCH quieter and I've got 20k miles on them now and still have 10/32nds of tread. The braking is MUCH better with the Michelins. You can actually feel them grabbing, where the goodyears would just slide around alot. We have a population explosion of deer here, so I unfortunetely get to test my brakes/tires on a regular basis. In the mud the Michelins are sooooooo much better and I'm anticipating the snow traction to be better as well. Just got them in the spring and no snow yet.
I thought the LTX-AT's did not come in 225' - only the XCX-APT did. Have you gone to the larger 235's?
One other question - I have a hell of a time getting into 4 wheel low. I do it according to the book - rolling slowly with the tranny [automatic] in neutral and then pulling the lever from 4 high, past N to Low. Any special tricks that I'm not aware of or am I not doing it correctly? If I was stuck [at a standstill] somewhere and need 4WD low I don't think I could get it to engage with moving or a lot of grinding.
4lo is tough on an automatic, and sometimes it takes a few times. Hard to get everything synchronized in there. I've found quick motion works best. Trying to ease it in just gets hung-up grinding gears. I just give it a whack. I'm not sure how much 4lo will help once your stuck anyway unless you can't muster up the power to spin the tires. I usually try to anticipate what's going on. Anywhere around steep hills I go for 4lo in advance just to ease up on everything. I think it helps reduce spinning the tires also because the revolutions are reduced from normal throttle input.
Anyone agree or disagree?
Amazingly, that very morning the Jeep started up perfectly as if nothing had ever been wrong. It has started perfectly for the last few mornings. Can anyone tell me why the gods have been favorable this time, since this vehicle has started to cost her an amazing amount of money lately trying to keep it running.
My 1997 Jeep Cherokee Sport had a water leak at the blower motor housing which necessitated the replacement of the carpet and padding due to the terrible musty smell that enveloped the vehicle. Now four years later the leak and odor have come back. Chrysler will not repair the vehicle - basically telling me it was my fault since I did not opt to purchase the 7/70 warranty! Has anyone else had a similar problem? Any help would be appreciated!
Plus, the add ons per tire at NTB[balance:$11.00, stems:$2.50, tire disposal:$2.00 and state fees:$1.00] are much higher than at a local store. For instance, the local guy charges $1.00 per tire for disposal, which means in addition to the profit on the tires, NTB makes a buck on each tire they take in. I'd rather give my business to a local guy anyway.
I know a number of people that have gone to the Michelin tires and all give them a thumbs up.
I'll let you know how things go with the Michelins - I sure hope they last longer than the stock Goodyears [13,600 miles].
It will kill 1 or 2 mpg and will raise the centre of gravity a bit. Lots of people have done it but if you're going to be mouting anything larger than the stock tires, maybe more than to 31" diameter, you might want to look at a rear bumper and carrier instead. A 30" tire will fit inside the Cherokee with a little love.