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Technical Service Bulletins

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  • mplatamplata Member Posts: 1
    Hi Mary,
    Am having the same problen with my Car. Have them check the PCM which controls the charging or it could be a voltage problem or cables. I just had a new motor put into my car after 139,000 miles, so I know its not my serpentine belt. Don't know why its not charging. I am replacing the alternator and battery tomorrow. Will let you know what I find out about my car.
    2001 Alero V-6 Let me know likewise what they find out about your car.
    Mary
  • kinge20874kinge20874 Member Posts: 1
    I just became a member so forgive me if you have resolved the issue. I read on www.allpar.com that there is a 10% change on those vehicles of having a driveline vibration issue. Allpar is a Dahlmer Chrysler site with a host of information on, history, current and concept vehicles. Good luck.
  • mufflerguymufflerguy Member Posts: 4
    I just joined and was looking at posts when I realized that the first page contained the oldest posts. You might consider making the most recent posts appear on the first page.
  • jnealjneal Member Posts: 247
    Why?? IMHO the forum is a work in progress and as with any journal,diary, etc. the most recent writing is going to appear on the last page. Of course my wife as always accused me of being odd...at least until the day I agreed with her and offered as proof I had married her!! Peace and quite since :P
  • kevin111kevin111 Member Posts: 991
    I have an '02 WRX with 96K miles. The car has been great!

    The problem is, I have noticed a smell of gasoline recently. The mechanic I had taken it to stated that there was a technical service bulletin that stated that 2 fuel lines in the engine compartment, I think they are underneith the intake, start to leak when the temperature drops (it gets cold).

    First off, is there a possible recall on this?

    Second, does $500 - $600 sound reasonable? The hoses themselves were over $100 combined.

    Thanks!
  • dericksonderickson Member Posts: 1
    Did you ever resolve this issue? I have a 2004 Alero with the same problem. Replaced the alternator and battery and the light came on again within the week. I have noticed that if I turn on my running lights - which is supposed to turn off the headlights which automatically come on - the control doesn't work and it dims my dashboard lights and radio panel. Any help would be appreciated.
  • jamodi83jamodi83 Member Posts: 2
    Is it best just to go to a dealership? Does anyone know of any pro acura/honda repair facilities?
  • dtownfbdtownfb Member Posts: 2,918
    Not knowing where you live, I would suggest taking a look in the phone book.

    When I lived in Harrisburg, there was an independent repair shop that specialized in Hondas called Dove's. It was about $15/hr cheaper (labor rate) then the dealership. Much easier to get an appointment.
  • r5harts2r5harts2 Member Posts: 1
    In regards to the intermittent starting pronlem on the 2001 Cheyy Tracker. Did you ever get the problem fixed? You said you had a relay replaced. Did this fix the problem? I have a 2001 Tracker and you problem sounds exactly like mine.
  • tracy_liu_99tracy_liu_99 Member Posts: 1
    Hi, I have a 98 honda civic LX model. Last two weeks, the orange check light suddenly went on while I was driving on the highway.
    The code was P0420. The mechanics reset the light and asked me to drive for a while to see if there were other codes came up. Three days later, the light came on again. Still, reset and run,3 days later, light pop up again. Mechanics read the data of everything especially the oxygen sensor and cat converter. Everything was fine. I was instructed to keep driving. Then after one week while I was driving on highway again, the light just suddenly WENT OFF automatically!!! How weird! I'd like to ask what possibly happened to my vehicle and what I should do?
  • 0patience0patience Member Posts: 1,712
    P0429 Description
    This system evaluates the catalyst's capacity by means of the HO2S (Primary and Secondary) output during stable driving conditions. If deterioration has been detected during two consecutive driving cycles, the MIL comes on and DTC P0420 will be stored.

    This can be caused by an exhaust leak or blockage, a faulty O2 sensor circuit, a vacuum leak or low fuel pressure.

    Engine Controls - MIL ON/DTC P0420/Engine Pinging
    05-027
    June 10, 2005
    Applies To:
    1996-00 Civic DX, LX, EX
    MIL Is On With DTC P0420 or Engine Ping Under Load
    SYMPTOM
    MIL is on with DTC P0420 (catalyst system efficiency below threshold) or the engine pings under load. DTC P0301 (No. 1 cylinder misfire detected), P0302 (No. 2 cylinder misfire detected), P0303 (No. 3 cylinder misfire detected) , or P0304 (No.4 cylinder misfire detected), may also be set.

    PROBABLE CAUSE
    Poor connections at the igniter terminals.
    CORRECTIVE ACTION
    Crimp the wires from the distributor subassembly, and install a new catalytic converter if code P0420 is stored in the PCM/ECM.

    If your mechanic needs the repair procedure for the TSB, then let me know.
    Remember that Service bulletins are on your dime.
  • amaatrebamaatreb Member Posts: 1
    I have a '97 Cav. Z24 with ~118K miles on it. There's a creaking sound every time I go over the smallest of bumps, but no excessive bouncing. My dad said the struts were probably just dry and it was nothing to worry about. But, it seems as if the noise gets louder each day. I was wondering if this is something I should get fixed immediately or if it's not too big of a deal? And about how much would it cost to get fixed (parts and labor)?
  • mysticsoulmysticsoul Member Posts: 12
    hey there all..

    I'm new to this forum, have a Hyundai Elantra 01, 4dr sedan.

    I'll be grateful if anyone could help me with this, the windshield washer doesnt work anymore, I had a look at it, its not the water being empty, or the pipes being clogged, so I think its the windshield-washer motor, cause I dont hear the motor sound anymore, any idea where the motor is located or how do I access it? short on money so i'll have to fix it myself.

    Thanx
  • okko1okko1 Member Posts: 327
    the pump should be in the bottom of the washer fluid bottle. sometimes a pain because it may be under the battery box or some other component.
  • mysticsoulmysticsoul Member Posts: 12
    Thanx for the reply...

    ya it is at the bottom, and the worst part is, i cant pull it or slide off from the top, had to find a high pavement and pull it from below. the crap part is that the replacement i found has a different power socket so now to friggin go down and try to a re wire it.
  • firecaptain2firecaptain2 Member Posts: 4
    How do I find out what the following service bullitins are, When I look them up a company wants to charge me to look at them:
    01-00-89-009 May '01
    Key/Key Number/Security Chip - Replacement
    01-08-49-020 DEC 01
    Ignition Lock Cylinder/Switch - Replacement Revision
  • 0patience0patience Member Posts: 1,712
    What vehicle are they for and what kind of problem are you having?
  • ron71ron71 Member Posts: 1
    My 2007 Dodge Nitro sputters between 35 & 55 mph. It seems like its running out of gas.
    Its new and has 125 mi.on it. First they said the computer had to be reprogramed That didn't fix it, replaced the tires (I think) that also wasn't it. Next solution is to drive it for 1000mi so the valves can seat.
    Does anyone know anything about this kind of problem. Thanks' Ron.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Oh man, it's hard to believe the dealer is this incompetent. They are certainly throwing a lot of nonsense at you, at least from hearing your side of the story.

    Try another dealer and get the car properly diagnosed.

    They just want you to drive 1000 miles and get lost, sounds like.
  • 0patience0patience Member Posts: 1,712
    I agree with Mr. Shiftright. (I do that a lot)
    I'd have to question the dealership's experience.

    More than likely the problem you are running into is a Torque converter problem.
    They are having problems with that vehicle with torque converters. Most often, the problem is described as feeling like it is running out of gas or a shudder that feels like the vehicle is being driven over rumble strips.

    The other problem they have been having is a 2nd gear ratio error in the transmission, which will give the same symptoms.
  • firecaptain2firecaptain2 Member Posts: 4
    Sorry, these are for a Pontiac Grand Am GT, 2002
    I was having a Passlock Security problem

    Thanks
  • 0patience0patience Member Posts: 1,712
    What kind of passlock problem are you having.
    The service bulletins aren't any use for you.

    01-00-89-009 May '01
    Key/Key Number/Security Chip - Replacement
    This is an informational bulletin to the dealer regarding correct documentation needed to cut a new key.
    Not applicable to your problem.

    01-08-49-020 DEC 01
    Ignition Lock Cylinder/Switch - Replacement Revision
    This bulletin is a service manual update bulletin.
    It only revises a step in lock replacement in the manual.
    Not applicable to any diagnostic problems.
  • rodeojeffrodeojeff Member Posts: 4
    I have a 95 rodeo with a v-6 it is getting about 11 mpg, when i am speeding up , the tailpipe emits a black smoot, and the power bogs down , i have no idea , i replaced the 0-sincer, didnt help , i get a 13 and a 23 code on the obd-1 any one have any ideas?
  • 0patience0patience Member Posts: 1,712
    I have no idea what a 0-sincer is.
    DTC 13 Oxygen sensor circuit open/grounded.
    DTC 23 Intake air temperature sensor circuit

    Check and make sure that there are no vacuum leaks in the intake, that all the wiring to the O2 sensor and IAT and coolant temp sensors are ok and intact.
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    I believe when he wrote a 0-sincer, he means Oxygen Sensor. I wondered the same thing, when I first read it.
  • 0patience0patience Member Posts: 1,712
    Ah ha! That makes sense.
    Wish folks would use the spell check. Saves a lot of confusion.
  • swiseman25swiseman25 Member Posts: 1
    My firebird feels like it is only running on a few cylinders. It has been doing this for a while, it started out by doing it only every once in awhile and now it does it all the time. When I got the car I had to put a fuel pump on it. I have changed the fuel filter, fuel regulator, idle air control sensor, throttle sensor, spark plugs and I have checked the coils and the car is still running bad. I had the computer hooked up to it that tells what sensor is bad but it reads the connector is unhooked...they said when a radio is installed they usually unhook the wire and the computer wont read.
    Does anyone else know what to try?? We also took the EGR valve off and cleaned it and put it back on then we unhooked it completely and it ran good for a day and now it is running bad again. Could it be the EGR valve?? What could it be??? Please Help!!
  • esommeresommer Member Posts: 24
    My apologies - I also posted this in a Volvo forum, but I believe it should be posted here instead...

    This car is a 1996 Volvo 850R sedan, automatic trans with 5 cylinder turbo engine.

    Are there any know TSB's pertaining to the problem I describe?

    Over the weekend my car developed a very noticeable tapping sound that appears to be internal to the engine. I can't tell if it's coming from the top or bottom of the engine... The problem occurred while accelerating to enter the interstate while the turbo was producing about 15PSI. The tapping sound is consistent with increase and decrease in RPM's. Other than the tapping sound, the engine appears to be operating as normal - no misfiring , hesitation, knocking etc.

    The car has 96,000 original miles on it and has been maintained very well. The current oil is Penzoil full synthetic 10W30.

    Can anybody offer suggestion as to where to begin? Is this a known problem with this engine? Any info will be greatly appreciated.

    Thanks!!
  • 0patience0patience Member Posts: 1,712
    It may be a valve lifter noise.
    There were new tappets available for your engine in 1997.
    But unless you were having a problem, they were not a warranty item.

    And if it is the lifters making the noise, then you have a bigger problem than the lifters.

    You must first determine exactly what is causing the noise.

    Other than that, there aren't any noise TSBs regarding the engine that I can find for your vehicle.
  • esommeresommer Member Posts: 24
    Thanks for the info. In reading through the Haynes manual for the 850, they recommend if valve work is needed to purchase a new or rebuilt head from the dealer or have the existing head rebuilt. Do you have any experience with either of these options as they pertain to the 850 engine? Approximate cost?
    Thanks again.
  • 0patience0patience Member Posts: 1,712
    if valve work is needed to purchase a new or rebuilt head from the dealer or have the existing head rebuilt.
    Had to chuckle on that one. Personally, if the noise is tappet noise, then you may want to find an Import shop that specializes in Volvos and ask them how much they would charge for diagnostics on the noise.
    Then go from there.

    As for the heads, if the tappets are the noise problem, then resurfacing the valves and seats and new seals should be the only thing needed.

    The problem is, until you know for sure where the noise is coming from, there are too many variables to even offer suggestions on it.
  • 95fbody95fbody Member Posts: 1
    I had the same problem with my 95 Firebird V6. It was a clogged Catalytic Converter. Some people fixed it by pulling it out and chipping out the charcoal-like bricks inside - the engine ran 100 X better. Then some people went ahead and forked over the wopping $406.00 dollars to the dealer and bought a new Catalytic Converter. Being as I didnt make much to afford it - you can guess which option I took. ;-)
  • johnny_rottenjohnny_rotten Member Posts: 12
    Depending on where you live you may or may not always be able to get away with doing that to your Converter.
  • buscemibuscemi Member Posts: 9
    I would know how i can see all the Technical service bulliins on my car just as the mechanics at the dealers do. Help me
  • 0patience0patience Member Posts: 1,712
    Get a subscription to AlldataDIY for your vehicle. http://www.alldatadiy.com
    The subscription will provide you access to every service bulletin and recall notice up to the current quarterly releases of bulletins.

    Remember that TSBs are NOT recalls and unless your vehicle is under warranty, it is your dime.
  • harden92harden92 Member Posts: 3
    During cold weather, it seems that the parking brake freezes and the rear brakes drag for a bit. I took the car to the Ford dealership and they could find nothing wrong with the rear brakes or parking brake. Keep in mind, this visit was in 2007 and I just found a TSB issued in January, 2006 that apparently addresses this problem. If anyone has experienced this, or has a full summary of the TSB, I would appreciate any help!!
    NHTSA Item Number: 10019962
    Service Bulletin Num : 0654
    Component: PARKING BRAKE:CONVENTIONAL:MECHANICAL:LINKAGE AND CABLE

    Thanks!
  • 0patience0patience Member Posts: 1,712
    TSB 06-5-4
    03/20/06
    PARK BRAKE CABLE FREEZING/REAR BRAKES DRAGGING
    FORD:
    2005-2006 Mustang
    ISSUE
    Some 2005-2006 Mustangs built prior to 10/1/2005 may exhibit park brake cables that freeze in cold weather due to water intrusion, and subsequently not release. Under some conditions this could lead to dragging rear brakes. The rear sealing boot on the cable (located at the rear caliper attachment) could deteriorate prematurely which may permit water intrusion. In freezing temperatures this could bind the cable inside the casing, and not allow tension to be released from the caliper.
    ACTION
    Inspect the park brake cable and system components. If the rubber sealing boots show signs of deterioration, replace both rear park brake cables.
    Part numbers
    6R3Z-2A635-D Parking Cable Assembly (Left)
    6R3Z-2A635-C Parking Cable Assembly (Right)
  • harden92harden92 Member Posts: 3
    Thank you so much! Hopefully this won't cost too much to fix...
  • 210delray210delray Member Posts: 4,721
    It should be free, assuming this is the problem.
  • harden92harden92 Member Posts: 3
    Unfortunately the warranty was up just a few miles ago...
  • 210delray210delray Member Posts: 4,721
    Yes, but TSBs are normally no-charge repairs.
  • 0patience0patience Member Posts: 1,712
    Yes, but TSBs are normally no-charge repairs.

    NO! They are NOT!
    TSBs are NEVER no-charge repairs. Unless the vehicle is under warranty.

    You are confusing recalls with TSBs.
  • 210delray210delray Member Posts: 4,721
    Really, I thought if a TSB was issued for your car, and you came into a dealer complaining of the problem addressed by the TSB, it would be taken care of, gratis (regardless of whether the warranty had expired). I realize this is the case with recalls, but I thought TSBs were handled the same way.

    If not, my bad. (On reflection, I've never had a TSB performed on my cars out of warranty.)
  • 0patience0patience Member Posts: 1,712
    A TSB is a technical information bulletin.
    It is designed to address "known" problems that certain vehicles exhibit.
    Some problems are ones that are because of manufacturing defects (which I will agree should become recalls) or because a part has become out dated.

    It is designed to assist the manufacturer's technicians in repairs. Some TSBs are informational only. They may be updated service manual pages or specific procedures that aren't normally done.

    In the past, a lot of folks considered TSBs as a cure all, which isn't really the case.
    They are a wealth of information, but only if you know what you are looking for.
    Never assume that the TSB is THE answer, because a lot of variables, such as VIN number, production date and place of manufacture can tell you if the TSB applies to your vehicle.

    A person should always be careful when they assume that the TSB pertains to their vehicle, as they could spend money unecessarily, if they haven't researched well enough.

    Hope this helps clear things up.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Also a dealer is in no way obligated to perform the tests or procedures recommended by the TSB for your car.
  • deluxe123deluxe123 Member Posts: 2
    My wife leased a 2007 nissan altima. We have not had it more than 9 months and it has been in the shop 8 times for the same reason. The car was dead this morning.
    She sets the auto headlight feature on the car. The last time she took it in they said they replaced the, "light sensor unit", and the problem would stop. Wrong.
    The car I believe has 7000 miles on it (oil was changed 2 weeks ago). She wants to return it as a "LEMON".
    She kept all documentation regarding this problem and the issue.
    Does anyone out there have any knowledge of this problem with the 2007 Altima?
    Also, does she have a case with the "LEMON" situation of the car.
    My wife explaind to me she had received last week a recall on a "on board emission computer problem". Guess it senses a problem with the catalytic converter and a light will go on (she has an Official Nissan recall letter). When talking to the dealership this morning they first had no knowledge of this recall and was also told that this may contribute to the problem she is experiencing.
    They told her to tow the car to the dealership.
    Need your guys help...
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Nope I checked all the TSBs and recalls and no mention of dead battery.

    Every state has different lemon laws. You need to check the laws in your state.

    You might drop in here:

    http://www.autopedia.com/html/HotLinks_Lemon2.html

    or our own Lemon Law discussion here at Edmunds:

    Lemon Laws
  • mitzijmitzij Member Posts: 613
    What is the car doing?
    Are the headlights not going off by themselves? coming on on their own?
  • ajg617ajg617 Member Posts: 5
    Has anyone seen this TSB? It has to do with the ABS improperly setting codes 35, 36, or 37. What I'm interested in is whether or not it describes what a customer complaint might be? Have 35 and 37 set on my 96 Suburban.
    THanks
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    This is the only similar one I found in the listings. Perhaps your number is not a GM number but a NHTSA number?

    This shows as a GM TSB # 1539013

    Subject: SES Light and P0300 When Towing, Cruising Uphill or on hard Acceleration - kw 4.3, 5.0, 5.7 accelerate cruise cylinderhead DTC L30, L31, L35, LF6, LU3, P0300, P0301, P0302, P0303, P0304, P0305, P0306, P0307 P0308 # PIP3081 - (07/23/2004)

    Models:

    The following diagnosis might be helpful if the vehicle exhibits the symptom described in the PI.

    Condition/Concern:

    The vehicle may exhibit a SES Light due to a P0300 and misfire. If the misfire is related to the information below, it will typically happen while cruising uphill, pulling a trailer or on hard acceleration and then stop misfiring shortly after returning to an idle. Typically, cylinders 3, 4, 5 or 6 will be the ones to experience this.

    Recommendation/Instructions:

    If the P0300 SI diagnostics did not isolate a concern, the following may help:

    Remove the valve cover, valve springs and valve seals on the effected cylinder or cylinders. A small wire tie or rubber bands can be placed in the valve stem keeper groove to prevent the valve from falling into the cylinder. Rotate the valve while moving it up and down in the guide to see if it binds. If a binding valve is found, remove both cylinder heads and use either of the following methods to increase the stem to guide clearance:
    ^ Send the head out to a machine shop and advise them to increase the valve stem to guide clearance to 0.002 inch per guide.

    ^ Hone the guide with a 9 mm hone, such as Snap On BCG249, until a clearance of 0.002 inch is obtained. This will usually take about 4 strokes of the hone.

    Reassemble the cylinder heads using new valve seals.

    Please follow this diagnosis process thoroughly and complete each step. If the condition exhibited is resolved without completing every step, the remaining steps do not need to be performed. If these steps do not resolve the condition, please contact GM TAC for further diagnostic assistance.
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