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GMC Yukon Reduced Engine Power message

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Comments

  • travelingnursetravelingnurse Member Posts: 11

    I was just waking up when I heard this so some Information may not be accurate. But I DID hear them talking about how GM cars from I think 2004 up have been having issues with the engine cutting out while driving,, caused over 70 deaths, blah, blah, blah,, hopefully they figured out what the issue is and hopefully my car will be fixed. My anxiety has been so out of control having to drive this car on the highway for work everyday,, wondering when I am going to get killed. It happened again the other day, during a bad snow storm,, yup,, that was AWSOME,,, GM,, you suck!! Never again,,

  • travelingnursetravelingnurse Member Posts: 11

    I just checked and of course my Impala is not included in the recall,, unfair!!! GM,, you suck!! Going to trade y car,, never will I buy another GM product again,,,

  • gmcustsvcgmcustsvc Member Posts: 4,252

    Hello All,

    If you have any questions regarding any open recalls on your vehicles, please feel free to send us an email to socialmedia@gm.com with your VIN included. We will be glad to look into this for you!

    Kristen A.
    GM Customer Care

  • travelingnursetravelingnurse Member Posts: 11

    I've already done that and it was useless. GM claims to not have had any complaints on this,,, useless!! I was told to call the national whatever it is to file a complaint,, did that and low and behold,, their system was down so they couldn't enter my complaint in,, sickening,,, just sickening. My lawyer is going to love this!!!

  • lalaleezalalaleeza Member Posts: 10
    Of course my Tahoe is also not on the list. This is ridiculous already. The reduced engine power problem has been know for YEARS! Yet no one will fix it or even knows what the problem is. GM does suck. I totally fell for the commercial "my daddy's daddy had a Chevy" crap. Legacy of owning a Chevy is total crap. Never again!!
  • lynniewagslynniewags Member Posts: 1

    The worst winter in Chicago was also the worst winter with our 2004 Yukon Denali - after babying the beast for years, I have had it. The Check Engine light is on continually, the Reduced Power due to the Stability Control occurred Friday evening on the I94 with 4 kids in the car - almost gave me a heart attack. I read the posts from 06 and will bring to a reputable mechanic to check with Wiring Plugs on the Throttle Body, Front Abs Sensors. I was trying to get another 2 years out of the Yukon - but at this point, I will sell it for parts and buy a Ford. Between this and the Brake Lines snapping last summer - I am done. You would think GMC would be forthright on what people are reporting as "potential problems" and what they suggest as preventative measures that should be taken especially with late model vehicles. My truck wears with honor the badges of the places we have visited - ski trips, family vacations, road trips hauling the boat. This is leaving a nasty taste in my mouth and I am looking at other trucks instead of going back to the one I have enjoyed for so many years. 2 Potential Life threatening incidents in one year is a tough pill to swallow.

  • lalaleezalalaleeza Member Posts: 10
    Well this morning on good morning America they were saying GM is under investigation for another recall issue where the ignition switch fails and can cause death. The govt wants to find out what GM knew and when about this problem. I say their whole recall process needs the same treatment. They have known about this for YEARS and yet refuse to do anything. After we the people bail the auto makers out they have the audacity to just say, "sorry". Sorry isn't good enough for me when every time I try to drive my car I am wondering if I am buckling my children into a death trap!
  • squekiesquekie Member Posts: 2
    edited April 2014

    '09 Yukon XL Denalli I too had this exact same problem as so many have mentioned. At first the "On Star" lady put me on the line with a GM Tech. They sent a tow truck , once at the Dealer I got a loaner truck . On Star Tech told me Throdle Body Housing and wiring , Dealer said the same thing, but gave me the not covered runaround. I walked over to the Ser. Mng. told him I had the extended Warranty and I DO NOT need this type of run around . I was advised to take the Truck and would be called the next day ? Strange I thought ? But to his word he called said it would take a week for parts ect. and I have a 100 deductible. I can live with that , so I looked up what was going on in this site and was SHOCKED . I feel lucky as Hell I am going to file with the NHTSA but thanking my lucky stars it didn't happen on one of the super busy Hwy. here around ATL. Yes I got it back in 7 days and charged $100.00

  • donewithgmsdonewithgms Member Posts: 24

    GM has known for years about the problems with these engines, but unless you bought your car after the bailout then GM doesn't have to do anything. It is the owners loss. Even after the bailout GM will most likely never do anything about the issues for the people who were unfortunate enough to purchase a GM truck. GM will not stand behind its products only its profits....same with the dealers.

  • lalaleezalalaleeza Member Posts: 10
    Ok so with all the recalls issued lately and all the known about problems that's GM didn't recall when are they going to recall the problem that we on this thread are having? C'mon GM. I KNOW YOU READ THIS THREAD! I know this because a GM rep has replied on here directly to me about my problem. You have known about this for years! Just like the ignition switch problem. I think we as consumers need to hold these corporations accountable for their products!!
  • squekiesquekie Member Posts: 2

    Sorry this site will not let meEdit my post. I want everyone to have the correct Info. this is a 2009 Youkon XL Denalli with 77,000mls when this problem happened.

  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    edited April 2014

    @squekie, I edited your post to change the date.

    So, I assume the dealer got the parts in for you by now. Any more issues?

  • lalaleezalalaleeza Member Posts: 10
    Sqekie, I am so glad that your problem has been fixed. However, I have paid my vehicle off and there is no longer an extended warranty for not only me but many others. GM has had complaints and this is potentially a life threatening problem. It was swept under the rug just like the ignition switch problem. I constantly get the runaround from GM. It's not right. The ignition switch problem is just one of I'm sure many problems GM has not addressed. It's truly frustrating.
  • isalisal Member Posts: 1

    I have to say that my 2002 Denali just did the same power lost thing you guys are talking about. You all helped me fix the problem free. I just got back from Charleston SC and now know why I had the problem. The roads are like a washboard and loosened my battery cable or cables. I tightened the cables, started the truck and has been fine for 2 days. Make sure you buy a side post battery wrench or you will never get the cables tight......Thanks again I isAL

  • 07xl07xl Member Posts: 1

    I have a 07 yukon xl and this just happened to my wife(loss of power and service stabilitrack). I checked on you tube for a fix and got several, looks like it may be faulty wiring on the throttle body.

  • gmartin2023gmartin2023 Member Posts: 1
    So iv been having the same issue, So far i have replaced the TAC Mod, gas peddle, Tac wiring and throttle body. It is very aggravating to spend so much on a car only to know its going to fail on you!!!
  • blkshp3blkshp3 Member Posts: 1
    Good evening. I have been following this thread for quite a while now..I too have had the same issues out of my '03 GMC Yukon XL with 336,000 miles on the ticker. I have also changed Every Sensor, Wiring Harness, tightened every bolt for the battery, replaced the throttle body, MAS, TPS, PPS, CPS, 2 fuel pumps and any other "S" i could have thought of.. only to have the same message pop up of Reduced Engine Power...Now then...after reading all 21 pages of comments...Now My issues only occur with the Outside air temps dipping below 50*. it happened to me last year and now this winter as well. Yet I had one good day in the 70's and that was the day i replaced all 4 of my O2 sensors and test drove it for well over 2 hours without a hiccup only for it to rear its ugly head the very next day when the temps dropped into the 50's yet again..So ..My final thoughts are the Computer itself..in which i have found one and will soon purchase after Christmas...Anyone thought of this as a Fix to our issues yet ? P.S. i too went to the dealerships to have them tell me No Known Recalls or issues of any sort with our "beloved" Yukon's
  • flowerlady2flowerlady2 Member Posts: 1
    Re: bonddog Posts: 6
    August 2006 in GMC
    I purchased my 2006 Yukon last September 2005. I now have 24,000 miles on it.

    I, too, am having the same problem with my Denali. Mine is a 2003 and as it's now January of 2015 this is obviously not a new vehicle; rather, it's paid for and the budget doesn't allow for a new vehicle at present. That said, I have to drive it! I also use it as delivery 'truck' for my flower shop (for the bigger things) so I have to make it work. I am wondering if, in these years past, you ever found a solution to this problem and what it was. I have had the fuel pump replaced, the mechanic did 'something' with the accelerator (I haven't a clue what!); a friend suggested that it was 'water in the fuel, some bad gas maybe' and added to my 1/2 tank of fuel SIX GALLONS of 'good' gas. Strangely, this seemed to 'fix' the problem for a while but, after a week of same fuel in the tank, it is back at doing the same thing again. I'm stressing out over this, not a lot of options in my court, so was curious what you, or anyone else, have done to fix this issue. Thanks in advance!
    Flowerlady2
  • 05suburbannn05suburbannn Member Posts: 1
    For a year now, my 05 Suburban has been going into reduced engine power mode. I have done the grounds, the wiring and new pigtail for the throttle position sensor, the entire throttle body, new gas pedal/sensor AND the throttle actuator control module (computer on the driver side firewall). I have even done a thermostat. I still have the problem. The only win so far is that I have done the work instead of paying the dealer MASS$ to be in the same boat. ANY OTHER SUGGESTIONS?
  • ray80ray80 Member Posts: 1,655

    For a year now, my 05 Suburban has been going into reduced engine power mode. I have done the grounds, the wiring and new pigtail for the throttle position sensor, the entire throttle body, new gas pedal/sensor AND the throttle actuator control module (computer on the driver side firewall). I have even done a thermostat. I still have the problem. The only win so far is that I have done the work instead of paying the dealer MASS$ to be in the same boat. ANY OTHER SUGGESTIONS?

    What code ( s) come up when you scan or get it scanned and what do they suggest?
  • polonashpolonash Member Posts: 1
    I've had the reduced engine power mode happening intermittently below 40 degrees for the last year on my 2007 Yukon Denali XL. I do not wish to play the game of throwing parts at it by some incompetent repair shop so I've read and researched for many hours! I JUST MIGHT HAVE THE BEGINNINGS OF AN ANSWER. On one of the many forums, can't remember where, someone mentioned they felt like the butterfly was sticking on the throttle body in cold temps. He said, after warming up the engine, he would rev it several times to "loosen it". Sounded ridiculous but it has worked for me for the last 2 weeks. Now, I think the engine power reduced mode is the result of many different running issues but a lot of people complain about this during colder months. Here's a couple of my scenarios: I'm driving down the highway and I can feel it start to "miss" or faintly "cut-out" for several minutes. This is sort of a warning that shut down mode is coming. I pull over, put it in park or neutral and just rev the engine 4-6 times. Put it back in drive and get back on the road. I always make the rest of my 45 minute journey without incident. Scenario 2: it's cold outside and the check engine light comes on. Another warning sign for me that shut down mode is enivitable. I do the same procedure of pulling over, revving it 4-6 times and just go on with my travels. By doing this preemptive routine I have not had the shut down mode problem in the last 2 weeks except for one time when I had just left the house and it hadn't had sufficient warm up time to do the revving procedure yet. It seems to be a short-lived fix that doesn't last more than a couple of days but it has me feeling better about explaining to a mechanic, when I do finally take it in, as to what to look for and how I seem to fix the issue albeit temporarily. My next report will come when it is fully repaired by a "competent" shop. Hope this helps a few of you as its really a free test case diagnostic !
  • 1bigpappy1bigpappy Member Posts: 2
    I have a 2006 Yukon XL Denali with 110k miles. I have been getting the reduced engine power for about half of that time. Changed the throttle body, throttle body sensor, and replaced the connector to the throttle body.
    Just about 2 days ago my wife was pulling into an intersection and the engine shut off! The only way she made it through was with the momentum she had. Just think if she was on the freeway coming around a corner and the engine shut off.
    I saw a recent post on this thread from a GM rep about asking for a VIN to check on a recall, This is a major safety issue so I am also going to put in a complaint with the NHTSA because I know I will get nothing useful back from the GM rep except or me to take it to a GM dealer. I know there has been talk for years, just go back in this thread and you'll find it, about a CLASS ACTION. If there is someone on here that know about one please add contact me, I really don't have confidence that GM will help, just keep pushing us off.
    I will not buy another GM vehicle, especially if GM doesn't nothing with this, which I don't think they won't.
    Lets see what they tell me.
  • longsleevelongsleeve Member Posts: 1
    Hello evryone, I have a 01 Yukon XL. I was experiencing the reduced engine power message on my D.I.C. went to oreilys had it put on the diagnosis tester and had a code for accelerator pedal sensor. I changed the accelerator pedal w/sensor ($80 part), and it fixed the reduced engine power problem.
  • dc59dc59 Member Posts: 2
    bonddog said:
    I purchased my 2006 Yukon last September 2005. I now have 24,000 miles on it. Over the last month I have had it into the dealer three times for the same problem. The problem is that while driving the vehicle it will suddenly lose almost all power. The Information Center will display the messages: "Stability Control Disabled", "Engine Power Reduced". And the vehicle will not go over 20 mph on a level surface and bearly 3 mph up a moderately steep hill. Each time I have had it into the dealer for repair they have beeen stumped by what the cause of the problem is. They said that GM/GMC told them that "GM is aware of the problem but does not have a fix for it at this time". How can a manufacturer sell a vehicle that has a defect and not have a fix for it? When the power goes out in a busy intersection or on a highway this is a major safety issue. Has anyone else experienced this problem. Thanks, Steve

  • dc59dc59 Member Posts: 2
    HELLO to all you mean to tell me that my 2013 malibu that im paying notes on is a lemon...it does the same thing all others are doing.I prayed all the way from NC.back to D.C. taken it to the shop tomorrow..maybe I should trade it in..thanks 
  • natemartinnatemartin Member Posts: 1
    Question. Has anyone check their ECM? I heard that the brain probably has gone bad. I experience it twice & it time I just reset the computer w/ my Diablo Tuner which has a ODBII built w/n. Let me know if this work for anyone else besides myself.
  • 32million32million Member Posts: 2
    edited January 2016
    2005 Yukon Denali
    I fasted and prayed about it after replacing my throttle position sensor and sensor harness, throttle body, battery, gas pedal position sensor, TB wiring harness again, cleaning the wheel speed sensors, testing the alternator, and cleaning and reconnecting the ground wires to the body.  I put my hand down by my coolant temp sensor then the engine and cooling fans went haywire.  Turns out there are two wires attached to it, one for power, and one that goes to.....guess what......TO THE THROTTLE BODY.  I replaced the coolant temp sensor and pigtail and erased the trouble codes with my code scanner.   PROBLEM SOLVED.  
    This may not work for everyone, because the other things I replaced our cleaned could be valid reasons for reduced engine power as well.  I hope I help someone.

  • 32million32million Member Posts: 2
    Okay......that didn't work.
  • kilroy73kilroy73 Member Posts: 1
    edited June 2016
    Same recurring problem on my 2003 Suburban LS 5.3 4wd: Replaced Throttle Body twice (one dorman one AC Delco), Replaced Throttle body pigtail, replaced pedal twice (one dorman one AC Delco), replaced TCM, cleaned/moved/redid all the grounds.
    The local dealership here in Austin charged me for a bunch of other stuff that I didn't need so I haven't taken it there for this. But I had it in to a mechanic I trust on 4 separate occasions and after replacing a bunch of other sensors, he could find nothing wrong with it.
    Have a Diablo tuner and have tried all tunes (likes the 93 extreme tune the best but hates the GM tunes)
    Still have the problem. Will never buy another GM vehicle.
    The only thing I haven't tried is physically replacing the ecm. Might have to try that next.

    But can't afford a new car right now so if anyone has any other suggestions, aside from a gallon of gas and a road flare, let me know...
  • reduced_solvedreduced_solved Member Posts: 5
    Hi guys I'm just here to tell you all i resolved my engine power reduced message that has been happening to my 2007 chevy suburban everyday for the past few weeks.Please if you are having this same problem to read my entire message before you get to what i tell you the problem should be on your vehicle as well.It has been happening at least six times or more everyday for the past few weeks.If you have the same problem hopefully this will help.First i got a new pedal because everytime the message came up on the dash and i plug in my diagnostics tool to the chip outlet under the steering wheel the code always read pedal position sensor.So when i changed my pedal i thought that it was fixed but it wasn't.After that i put on a new throttle body and that still didn't work.The Last thing i did because believe me this was getting on all of my nerves but the last thing i did was every time the engine power reduce message comes up the last couple of times i pulled and pushed a little on the THROTTLE BODY WIRING HARNESS WIRES/CONNECTOR you can hear a clicking in the engine and my suburban would rev up or down.The reason why i put that in capital letters because this is the root of the problem.I went to the dealership to get a THROTTLE BODY WIRING HARNESS CONNECTOR no autoparts stores had it so i had no choice but i paid 55 dollars and i made sure the wires were copper(brown like a penny) on the inside of the wire covering.DO NOT i repeat DO NOT get the connector with aluminum(silver like a nickel) wires.Aluminum wires expand while heated and shrinks when cool.That is the reason why myself and others have had problems with EPR(engine power reducing)in the weather with this aluminum wiring Aluminum wiring sucks.After i got my throttle body wiring harness connector with COPPER wiring i went home and started up so under the hood i went since i know a little something about wiring and automotive work i figured this should be easy.It was easy for me just time consuming.Before i started i looked at the OLD wiring harness which was still connected and saw at the other end past the tape and old crimps that the wires were different colors so i labeled the NEW throttle body wiring harness wires with yellow tape and wrote with a black marker which NEW wire connects to the colored wires according to the OLD throttle body wiring harness.So i cut the wires to the old throttle body wiring harness connector as a matter of fact i cut past the crimps.The crimps are the little sleeves that came with the new throttle body wiring harness connector.You will not need those because they tend to get moisture in them which is not good because moisture in wires will cause it to not function properly or they might just slip loose after time.Or if you do decide to use the new crimps just make sure you put a very tight seal over them so no moisture won't get in but i prefer SOLDERING the wires together.They have youtube videos on soldering wires together if you have never done it.Here is the link to one video https://youtu.be/Q9G9gaokqvM

    ...............So that's the route i went but before i did that and when i cut the old throttle body wiring harness off and when i took the tape off the old crimps and the tape that was covering it was sticky wet sort of speak.That's the moisture i was talking about.Something also told me that this has been done before to this truck of mine but they didn't use nothing but regular electrical tape to seal the wires after they crimped them.Idecided i was gonna use silicone tape which adheres to itsef i applied that after the soldering of the wires.I'm sure there is other things to use at high temps. under the hood but that's my choice.Now the time consuming stage i was talking about is soldering maybe because i did it under the hood and i had to maneuver a bit while under there but it was worth it.I actually put a piece of board under the wires while i was soldering so none of the heated solder would fall down onto other parts.So after i was done soldering and let the solder dry onto the wires which did not take long i applied this other tape before the silicone tape.I don't know the name of it i had it for quite a while it actually popped up in my tool box but this kind of tape was black on top and white at the bottom the white part looked liked threads almost.I don't think it matters because the silicone tape itself would work.So applied the tapes i actually applied a good bit around each wire at first and then i applied the tape around the whole group of wires together.The silicone tape stretches like rubber so you can pull it tight to get a good seal.I test drove my truck i been driving it for a full week now and not one engine reduced power message at all.My truck has actually been riding like it was when i first purchased it.No hesitation no rough idle i been on a two hour trip.There and back and was still riding around in the upper 90 degree temps outside.That was the problem guys I hope this helps all of you or at least some.I apologize for the book i wrote lol!One more thing please for some that don't know please DISCONNECT YOUR BATTERY before you try this if you are doing it yourself and don't know much about under the car.I have pics of my old throttle body wiring harness connector and a pics of the new one that's already connected if you scroll down to my name reduced solved.Take care
  • reduced_solvedreduced_solved Member Posts: 5
    edited August 2016
    O YEAH PICS ON PREVIOUS PAGE OF THROTTLE BODY WIRING HARNESS CONNECTOR AT THE BOTTOM OF PAGE.
  • reduced_solvedreduced_solved Member Posts: 5



  • eganmontanaeganmontana Member Posts: 1
    edited October 2016
    So, @reduced_solved , it has been about two months now, is your problem still solved. I've been watching this forum in hopes of solving this problem on my 2003 Suburban.
  • ofp2016ofp2016 Member Posts: 1
    Well everyone, I have joined the R.E.P club! What a nuisance! So I have a 2009 Yukon Denali XL and experienced the Reduce Engine Power message just yesterday! Now my vehicle will not start today(19dec16)! After going through the may pages of comments I thought I'd ask if after the repairs being made to others vehicles have they had the issue reoccur? I'm thinking of starting with the wiring to the throttle body. Anybody have any other ideas where I should start? IT WOULD BE VERY MUCH APPRECIATED!!!
  • ebnewsomeebnewsome Member Posts: 1
    Like everybody else, I too have a GMC Yukon Denali (2004), that has electrical problems. Yesterday we thought we had it finally "fixed" after replacing the negative ground battery cable. Worked like a charm until about noon today. In the next 2 hours, it cut off 6 times. I love my Yukon, please help!. Is the wiring harness the issue?
  • petedropetedro Member Posts: 7
    Hi,
    2007 Avalanche: This happened to me on a snowy highway in WV. Lost power behind tractor trailors on highway narrowed to one land and minimal shoulder. Sat in 20degree weather with wife and kid waiting on AAA instead of skiing! Luckily truck came to life and made it to a mechanic who said the TPS code popped. We had just accidentally hit the onstar button and he said that could have done it as it can override the ecm. So we press on. Alls well until a few days ago AGAIN on the highway and barely made it to shoulder. Talk about white kncking and scared. This time it started right back up. Have engine light, stabilitrak, ABS warnings. Dealer says TPS replacement and wheel speed sensor need replacing. Since my 2007 with 90k mi is not a 2008, GM says go pound sand regarding the bullletin. apparently there is also a TAC wiring bulletin regarding 2003-2006 Avalanches. I guess 2007 is the superior truck. NOT! I have no trust that after I do these repairs it will be fixed I did the TAC wiggle test with no results. Ground wire on strong and new battery.
    First event was in snow and second was in rain. Moisture must be interferring somewhere. Any harnesses down low to check out?
    GM case 8-2742390060
    Thanks, Pete
  • ray80ray80 Member Posts: 1,655
    petedro said:

    Hi,
    2007 Avalanche: This happened to me on a snowy highway in WV. Lost power behind tractor trailors on highway narrowed to one land and minimal shoulder. Sat in 20degree weather with wife and kid waiting on AAA instead of skiing! Luckily truck came to life and made it to a mechanic who said the TPS code popped. We had just accidentally hit the onstar button and he said that could have done it as it can override the ecm. So we press on. Alls well until a few days ago AGAIN on the highway and barely made it to shoulder. Talk about white kncking and scared. This time it started right back up. Have engine light, stabilitrak, ABS warnings. Dealer says TPS replacement and wheel speed sensor need replacing. Since my 2007 with 90k mi is not a 2008, GM says go pound sand regarding the bullletin. apparently there is also a TAC wiring bulletin regarding 2003-2006 Avalanches. I guess 2007 is the superior truck. NOT! I have no trust that after I do these repairs it will be fixed I did the TAC wiggle test with no results. Ground wire on strong and new battery.
    First event was in snow and second was in rain. Moisture must be interferring somewhere. Any harnesses down low to check out?
    GM case 8-2742390060
    Thanks, Pete

    Just so I am understanding correctly, you haven't had anything replaced yet and don't think the suggested parts are bad on your 10 year old vehicle?
  • petedropetedro Member Posts: 7
    ray80 said:

    petedro said:

    Hi,
    2007 Avalanche: This happened to me on a snowy highway in WV. Lost power behind tractor trailors on highway narrowed to one land and minimal shoulder. Sat in 20degree weather with wife and kid waiting on AAA instead of skiing! Luckily truck came to life and made it to a mechanic who said the TPS code popped. We had just accidentally hit the onstar button and he said that could have done it as it can override the ecm. So we press on. Alls well until a few days ago AGAIN on the highway and barely made it to shoulder. Talk about white kncking and scared. This time it started right back up. Have engine light, stabilitrak, ABS warnings. Dealer says TPS replacement and wheel speed sensor need replacing. Since my 2007 with 90k mi is not a 2008, GM says go pound sand regarding the bullletin. apparently there is also a TAC wiring bulletin regarding 2003-2006 Avalanches. I guess 2007 is the superior truck. NOT! I have no trust that after I do these repairs it will be fixed I did the TAC wiggle test with no results. Ground wire on strong and new battery.
    First event was in snow and second was in rain. Moisture must be interferring somewhere. Any harnesses down low to check out?
    GM case 8-2742390060
    Thanks, Pete

    Just so I am understanding correctly, you haven't had anything replaced yet and don't think the suggested parts are bad on your 10 year old vehicle?
    Hi Ray,

    I am just trying to cover my bases as this dealer/service manager has flat out hosed me before with blatant lies in which GM stood up and covered some of the service.
    I was told by GM to get a diagnosis before they could rule on the service bulletin. I did and they ruled. Said didnt apply to a 2007 because it is a different vehicle made with different parts, etc. Well guess what? The TPS and the harness are the exact same part # used in the 2008 model that is covered by the bulletin. THis is a known major defect. How many posts here?
    I want to clear this issue and make sure the stabilitrak warning is still there before paying them $500 for the TPS and $400 for the speed sensor.
    The AC delco throttle body is $150 and the after marketTPS harness is $20. There are 4 bolts to the throttle body after getting the air intake out of the way. THey want $900 just for the part! I am capable and will do myself, but I think in my case the code is thrown in error as it has happened only twice in two weeks, once in snow and once in rain. Both on highway where moisture can get thrown around. Both times super sketchy dangerous!
    I see posts where dealers have replaced EVERYTHING and people are still having the same issue. I will not give them my hard earned money without investigation and I have read every page of this thread.
    I just think it is funny that there are bulletiins on 2003-2006 and 2008-2011 avalanches and not 2007.

    By the way, did they change the design after 2011 to address this issue? They should retrofit if they did.
  • billyd1002billyd1002 Member Posts: 1
    I have recently bought a 02 Silverado and getting the dreaded "reduced engine power" issue. Had the TPS replaced, drovee okay for about 75 miles or so, then a cold day I started it and code came back. It is throwing the TPS code again but I am skeptical on the issue. What I did notice is it throws the P1515 (I think but will check again tonight) and a P0700 which is a tranny code, and also a P0727. When I start it cold it throws the codes, I keep the scanner on it and keep clearing it and keeps coming back. Once it gets warm enough for the truck to "kick down" off the choke/fast idle, I am able to clear the code and the TPS code and reduced engine power goes away - the P0700 and 727 usually stay or come back fast. I can then drive like that and no issue until truck gets cold again and when restarted. Any ideas on this one since it seems to be related to only cold starts or the fast idle? I plan on checking connections and such as best I can, but being I can clear it when warm has me scratching my head.
  • petedropetedro Member Posts: 7
    My thoughts are to take it and push it over a cliff and buy a Titan or a Toyota. That is what I am doing.
    So mine only does it in rain/snow so moisture. Not in just cold yet.
    I wonder of your throttle body is dirty and the butterfly hangs up only when cold? Did you clean it when you changed the sensor? Good luck and let me know if anyone has a used Titan cheap!
    My 2007 is not covered despite having THE SAME PART # as that in the service bulletin.
  • petedropetedro Member Posts: 7
    GM customer service explained that the recall is very specific according to VIN and different parts are made in different places, blah, blah, blah. The TPS/throttle body part # for my 2007 is exactly the same as the 2008 which is covered, so the next time this happens to someone on a highway with their family in the car like has happened to me twice, they can turn their head to it like they did the ignition switch issue.
    But my wife's 2001 CR-V has only take oil, a timing belt, and a window regulator in 16 years and still going strong!
  • ray80ray80 Member Posts: 1,655
    petedro said:

    GM customer service explained that the recall

    There was a recall? All I saw was service bulletin telling technicians how to fix the problem.

  • petedropetedro Member Posts: 7
    You are right. Service bulletin, but it covers the cost of the repair and they sent out a letter to vehicle owners, so it acts like a recall... Dealer wanted $900 to do the throttle body saying it is a $500 part when I can buy it at Rock Auto AC Delco for $150. I just ordered the harness and throttle body,but I doubt it will be fixed after reading this entire thread.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Well you're only guessing but I guess short of finding some electronic genius in your area (and there may be one), then it's as good a guess as any.

    As has been stated before in topics similar to this one, there's no one cause for this problem, as this is an integrated system of sensors and modules and switches. You can't even be sure if the PCM is getting correct or false data (probably false, but...).
  • petedropetedro Member Posts: 7

    Well you're only guessing but I guess short of finding some electronic genius in your area (and there may be one), then it's as good a guess as any.
    . As has been stated before in topics similar to this one, there's no one cause for this problem, as this is an integrated system of sensors and modules and switches. You can't even be sure if the PCM is getting correct or false data (probably false, but...).

    Yep, I agree. Frustrating. Just filed complaint with NHTSA to document issue as it almost got us wasted twice. Wish me luck on soldering the harness.
  • thecardoc3thecardoc3 Member Posts: 5,741

    Well you're only guessing but I guess short of finding some electronic genius in your area (and there may be one), then it's as good a guess as any.

    Do you realize what is going to happen as the complexity for solving problems like this continues to grow, and the techs capable of working with these systems continue to retire or leave the trade for greener pastures?

    One of the GM techs I know reported recently that they changed the warranty times for diagnostics yet again. Now they only get .3 IF the diagnostic effort leads to a repair. If they investigate a reported issue that it is intermittent and cannot be confirmed, they get nothing for the time that they have to invest.

    Before I started posting no one here ever considered just what policies like that did to the techs. (not sure enough do yet) But not paying them to take to time to research and be disciplined in their approach trains them to rush and take as quick of a shot as they possibly can even if it ends up being a half blind leap. The worst of that could be found in both the techs getting it right as well as wrong because when they got it right someone always tried to then make that the standard, while they were ready to punish that same effort when it missed the mark.


  • petedropetedro Member Posts: 7
    Yet they charged me $169 for that diagnostic! I feel bad for the techs trying to make an honest living. I think the Service Managers are to blame. My truck blew up the trans (huge bang) pulling away slowly from a light at 60k miles 2 weeks after warranty. They took it in and I got GM involved. Since I had the recommended tranny service 6 months prior, gm covered all but $1000. But they did not put in a new torque converter or even take it on a legit test drive. I got it on the highway and it shook like crazyu. Back to dealer. Oh, the transfer case is gone. Like it wasn't before! Service mgr says no, just happened. I have to pay. I said I am not taking my truck back and he can have it.. I talked to other techs who said the failure to swap out the torque converter was the issue and teh service mgr tells me that under the gm warranty they just inspect it, but if I was a cash customer it would have been replaced! I told that to GM customer service. A week later GM calls and says $4oo to fix it. Service mgr was not happy he had to tell me that. Ourisman Rockmont Rockville, MD Chevy. Stay FAR AWAY!
  • thecardoc3thecardoc3 Member Posts: 5,741
    edited February 2017
    petedro said:

    Yet they charged me $169 for that diagnostic! I feel bad for the techs trying to make an honest living. I think the Service Managers are to blame.

    Most of whom either were never techs, or weren't very good at it and of course didn't stay at it long enough to really get good at the work. BTW, this goes up the line further than just the service managers. At $169 for the diagnostics they have started to move in the right direction and maybe in time will be able to reverse the trend of not being able to find qualified technicians. But, they still short change the techs with anything that is under warranty and play a game where the customer pay rates subsidize the lack of fair and proper compensation when something turns into warranty.
    petedro said:

    My truck blew up the trans (huge bang) pulling away slowly from a light at 60k miles 2 weeks after warranty. They took it in and I got GM involved. Since I had the recommended tranny service 6 months prior, gm covered all but $1000.

    Imagine the transmission overhaul/repair takes an experienced tech about ten hours, customer pay rate is close to fourteen hours which means the tech gets a bonus for being efficient and precise. When GM picked up part of the tab, the labor instantly went to the warranty rate which is about seven hours. Now the tech has to try and rush just to break even, or just accept the unpaid hours.
    petedro said:

    But they did not put in a new torque converter or even take it on a legit test drive. I got it on the highway and it shook like crazyu. Back to dealer. Oh, the transfer case is gone. Like it wasn't before! Service mgr says no, just happened. I have to pay. I said I am not taking my truck back and he can have it.. I talked to other techs who said the failure to swap out the torque converter was the issue and teh service mgr tells me that under the gm warranty they just inspect it, but if I was a cash customer it would have been replaced!

    Some of the details here are misleading. Yes the torque convertor would normally be replaced, but that's more of a CYA than an absolute must. There would be no shortage of stories that are the total opposite where someone who had the convertor replaced believes that it wasn't necessary. There isn't much a tech can do beyond examining the metal shavings that can accumulate in the transmission pan, even with that it can be somewhat of a guess as to whether to replace one or not. For the techs, there isn't an effective way to test the convertor without it being installed in the transmission and by driving the car, and if the transmission has already failed that isn't possible until after it is repaired.

    Now imagine someone else calling the shots and deciding what to replace and what not to. If the tech can't prove that the convertor is bad, they don't get to replace it under a warranty.
    petedro said:

    I told that to GM customer service. A week later GM calls and says $4oo to fix it. Service mgr was not happy he had to tell me that. Ourisman Rockmont Rockville, MD Chevy. Stay FAR AWAY!

    Now for the rest of the story. You paid for the convertor as if it was installed with the previous repair, the tech didn't get paid to remove the transmission and replace it. Had he/she been allowed to the first time, then they only would have lost about three hours pay when it turned into warranty. Now they lost close to seven hours, or almost a whole day's pay because of having to go back in. Dealer flat rate games try and find ways to pay the techs enough on the simplest work that it can make up or subsidize losses like this. It appears from the above that they had said to replace the transfer case which would have offset the hours but would have been totally unethical since it wasn't what was wrong with your car. This is the kind of nonsense that starts happening because of pressure to produce numbers from upper management and owners.

  • 1wingsfan1wingsfan Member Posts: 2
    This happening to my 2011 impala....from what I have read all have come from Chevrolet. How can this not be a recall since it happened to me while I was exiting the freeway and I had almost no brake pedal. I actually went passed the light but lucky their were no other cars around.
  • thecardoc3thecardoc3 Member Posts: 5,741
    See your other post. You are describing a brake system issue and the car needs repaired immediately. Stop driving it and have it towed to a shop. Make sure to give them a good description of the symptom and then let them go find it. Avoid telling them what someone else might try and guess what the problem is because that could be very misleading.
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